Salem, fascinating as it is because of its connection with t

[Illustration: Copyright, 1891, by A. S. Burbank.

_Frontispiece._ PLYMOUTH IN 1622.]

American Historic Towns

HISTORIC TOWNS

OF

NEW ENGLAND

Edited by

LYMAN P. POWELL

Illustrated

G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS

NEW YORK & LONDON

The Knickerbocker Press

1898

COPYRIGHT, 1898

BY

G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS

Entered at Stationers’ Hall, London

The Knickerbocker Press, New York

[Illustration]

PREFACE

In July, 1893, while the first Summer Meeting of the American Society

for the Extension of University Teaching was in session at the

University of Pennsylvania, I conducted the students, in trips taken

from week to week, to historic spots in Philadelphia, the battle-fields

of the Brandywine and of Germantown, and to the site of the winter camp

at Valley Forge. The experiment was brought to the attention of Dr.

Albert Shaw, and at his instance I made a plea through the pages of _The

American Monthly Review of Reviews_, October, 1893, for the revival of

the mediæval pilgrimage, and for its adaptation to educational and

patriotic uses. After pointing out some of the advantages of visits paid

under competent guidance and with reverent spirit to spots made sacred

by high thinking and self-forgetful living, I suggested a ten days’

pilgrimage in the footsteps of George Washington.

The suggestion took root in the public mind. Leading journals commended

the idea. New England people, already acquainted with the thought of

local historical excursions, hailed the proposed pilgrimage with

enthusiasm. Men and women from a score of States avowed their eagerness

to make the experiment; and at the close of the University Extension

Summer Meeting of July, 1894, in which I had lectured on American

history, I found myself conducting for the University Extension Society

a pilgrimage, starting from Philadelphia, to Hartford, Boston,

Cambridge, Lexington, Concord, Salem, Plymouth, Newburg, West Point,

Tarrytown, Tappan, New York, Princeton, and Trenton.

The press contributed with discrimination the publicity essential to

success. Every community visited rendered intelligent and generous

co-operation. And surely no pilgrims, mediæval or modern, ever had such

leadership; for among our cicerones and patriotic orators were: Col. T.

W. Higginson, Drs. Edward Everett Hale and Talcott Williams, Hon.

Hampton L. Carson, Messrs. Charles Dudley Warner, Richard Watson Gilder,

Charles Carlton Coffin, Frank B. Sanborn, Edwin D. Mead, Hezekiah

Butterworth, George P. Morris, Professors W. P. Trent, William M.

Sloane, W. W. Goodwin, E. S. Morse, Brig.-Gen. O. B. Ernst, Major

Marshall H. Bright, and Rev. William E. Barton.

I had planned in the months that followed to publish a souvenir volume

containing the more important addresses made by distinguished men on the

historic significance of the places visited; but as the happy experience

receded into the past a larger thought laid hold of me. Why not sometime

in the infrequent leisure of a busy minister’s life edit a series of

volumes on _American Historic Towns_? Kingsley’s novels were written

amid parish duties, and Dr. McCook has found time, amid exacting

ministerial duties, to make perhaps the most searching study ever made

by an American of the habits of spiders. Medical experts agree

concerning the value of a wholesome avocation to the man who takes his

vocation seriously; and congregations are quick to give ear to the

earnest preacher whose sermons betray a large outlook on life.

A series of illustrated volumes on _American Historic Towns_, edited

with intelligence, would prove a unique and important contribution to

historical literature. To the pious pilgrim to historic shrines the

series would, perhaps, give the perspective that every pilgrim needs,

and furnish information that no guide-book ever offers. To those who

have to stay at home the illustrated volumes would present some

compensation for the sacrifice, and would help to satisfy a recognized

need. The volumes would probably quicken public interest in our historic

past, and contribute to the making of another kind of patriotism than

that Dr. Johnson had in mind when he defined it as the “last refuge of a

scoundrel.”

I foresaw some at least of the serious difficulties that await the

editor of such a series. If all the towns for which antiquarians and

local enthusiasts would fain find room should be included, the series

would be too long. A staff of contributors must be secured, possessing

literary skill, historical insight, the antiquarian’s patience, and

enough confidence in the highest success of the series to be prepared to

waive any requirement of adequate pecuniary compensation. Space must be

apportioned with impartial but not unsympathetic hand, and the

illustrations selected with due discrimination. And, finally, publishers

were to be found willing to assume the expense required for the

production in suitable form of a series for which no one could with

accuracy forecast the sale.

The last and perhaps most serious difficulty was removed almost a year

ago when Messrs. G. P. Putnam’s Sons expressed a willingness to take the

commercial risk involved in publishing the present volume, which will,

it is hoped, be the first of a series. Contributors were then found

whose work has, I trust, secured for the undertaking an auspicious

beginning. Critics inclined at first glance to speak harshly of the

differences among the contributors in style and in literary method are

advised to withhold judgment till a closer reading has made clear, as it

will, the fundamental differences there are among the towns themselves

in history and in spirit. Adequate reasons which need not be stated here

have made it advisable to omit Lexington, Groton, Portsmouth, the Mystic

towns, and other towns which would naturally be included in a later

volume on New England Towns, in case the publication should be

continued.

So many have co-operated in the making of this book that I will not

undertake to name them all. But I cannot forbear to acknowledge the

valuable assistance I have received at every stage of the work from Mr.

G. H. Putnam, Mr. George P. Morris, associate editor of _The

Congregationalist_, and Miss Gertrude Wilson, instructor in history at

the historic Emma Willard School. The Century Company has, in the

preparation of the first chapter on Boston and the chapter on Newport,

kindly allowed the use of certain illustrations and portions of articles

on Boston and Newport, which have appeared in _St. Nicholas_ and old

_Scribner’s_ respectively. Some of the illustrations for the Portland

chapter have been furnished by Lamson, the Portland photographer.

The Essex Institute, with characteristic generosity, has loaned most of

the cuts for the Salem chapter. The Ohio State Archæological and

Historical Society has allowed the reproduction from _The Ohio

Quarterly_ of some of the designs in the Rutland chapter, while certain

of the illustrations in the Cape Cod Towns chapter appeared first in

_Falmouth Illustrated_.

Conscious of the editorial shortcomings of the volume, I still dare to

hope that it may have such a cordial reception as will justify the

publication at some time of a volume on Historic Towns of the Middle

States.

LYMAN P. POWELL

AMBLER, PENNSYLVANIA

September 21, 1898.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CONTENTS

PAGE

INTRODUCTION George Perry Morris 1

PORTLAND Samuel T. Pickard 53

RUTLAND, MASS. Edwin D. Mead 81

SALEM George Dimmick Latimer 121

BOSTON {Thomas Wentworth Higginson 167

{Edward Everett Hale 187

CAMBRIDGE Samuel A. Eliot 211

CONCORD Frank B. Sanborn 243

PLYMOUTH Ellen Watson 299

CAPE COD TOWNS Katharine Lee Bates 345

DEERFIELD George Sheldon 403

NEWPORT Susan Coolidge 443

PROVIDENCE William B. Weeden 475

HARTFORD Mary K. Talcott 507

NEW HAVEN Frederick H. Cogswell 553

[Illustration]

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Plymouth in 1622[1] _Frontispiece_

PORTLAND

WHITE HEAD, CUSHING ISLAND 55

DEERING’S WOODS 59

Showing brook which the soldiers had to ford in the fight

with the Indians in 1689.

FIRST PARISH CHURCH 63

Containing the Mowatt cannon-ball.

THE BIRTHPLACE OF LONGFELLOW 67

HENRY W. LONGFELLOW 73

N. P. WILLIS 77

RUTLAND

DR. CUTLER’S CHURCH AND PARSONAGE AT IPSWICH HAMLET,

1787[2] 83

VIEW OF RUTLAND STREET[3] 85

MANASSEH CUTLER[4] 91

NATHAN DANE[5] 92

RUFUS PUTNAM[6] 95

SITE OF MARIETTA AND HARMAR, 1788[7] 101

THE “CENTRAL TREE”[8] 103

THE OLD RUTLAND INN[9] 104

VIEW OF RUTLAND CENTRE FROM MUSCHOPAUGE HILL[10] 107

BRITISH BARRACKS[11] 112

THE RUFUS PUTNAM HOUSE[12] 114

SALEM

GOVERNOR ENDICOTT’S SUN-DIAL AND SWORD[13] 122

THE FIRST MEETING-HOUSE, 1634-39[14] 123

GOVERNOR SIMON BRADSTREET[15] 125

GOVERNOR JOHN ENDICOTT[16] 126

THE PICKERING FIREBACK[17] 128

OLD CRADLE[18] 131

THE ROGER WILLIAMS’ OR “WITCH HOUSE”[19] 137

WITCH PINS[20] 142

TIMOTHY PICKERING 153

SOME OLD DOORWAYS[21] 155

BOWDITCH DESK AND QUADRANT[22] 158

WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT 160

NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE 163

From an engraving from a painting by C. G. Thompson.

NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE--BIRTHPLACE OF HAWTHORNE--HOUSE

OF THE SEVEN GABLES--GRIMSHAWE HOUSE--THE

OLD TOWN PUMP[23] 165

SEAL OF THE CITY OF SALEM[24] 166

BOSTON

SUCCORY OR “BOSTON WEED” 167

TRINITY CHURCH[25] 169

BOSTON IN 1757 172

From a drawing by Governor Pownall.

“OLD CORNER BOOKSTORE”[26] 175

OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES 177

PUBLIC LIBRARY 179

MAP OF BOSTON IN 1722 180

CHARLES SUMNER 182

PHILLIPS BROOKS 184

FANEUIL HALL IN THE 18TH CENTURY 189

GOVERNOR THOMAS HUTCHINSON 190

From a portrait in possession of the Massachusetts Historical

Society, once the property of Jonathan Mayhew.

THE OLD SOUTH CHURCH IN ITS PRESENT CONDITION. BUILT

IN 1729 193

OLD STATE HOUSE 197

JAMES OTIS 199

SAMUEL ADAMS 201

BOSTON MASSACRE 203

From a painting by A. Chappel.

LANDING OF BRITISH TROOPS AT BOSTON, 1768 205

MAP OF BOSTON IN 1775 206

THE FROG POND ON THE COMMON AS IT NOW APPEARS 209

SEAL OF THE CITY OF BOSTON 210

CAMBRIDGE

HARVARD COLLEGE GATE 213

HOME OF LONGFELLOW 215

“THE MUSES’ FACTORIES.”--LOWELL 221

STATUE OF JOHN HARVARD AND MEMORIAL HALL, HARVARD

COLLEGE 225

HOLWORTHY HALL, HARVARD COLLEGE 229

HOME OF LOWELL 231

WASHINGTON ELM 233

JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL 235

GYMNASIUM, HARVARD COLLEGE 237

WILLIAM E. RUSSELL 240

CONCORD

CONCORD RIVER, BY THOREAU’S LANDING 245

RALPH WALDO EMERSON (1858) 252

From a sketch by Rowse.

THE LIGHT AT THE BRIDGE[27] 255

Redrawn from Ralph Earle’s sketch of 1775.

THE BATTLE OF LEXINGTON, APRIL 19, 1775 263

From an old print.

MUSKETS OF CAPTAIN JOHN PARKER 266

THE MINUTE-MAN[28] 269

French’s first statue.

HAWTHORNE’S OLD MANSE 274

REVOLUTIONARY INN[29] 277

HENRY THOREAU (1857)[30] 280

GRAVES OF THE EMERSON FAMILY 283

HOME OF EMERSON 287

A. BRONSON ALCOTT (1875)[31] 292

LOUISE M. ALCOTT 295

SEAL OF THE CITY OF CONCORD 297

PLYMOUTH

FACSIMILE OF A PAGE FROM GOVERNOR BRADFORD’S MANUSCRIPT,

“PLIMOTH PLANTATION” 301

The original is now in the Boston State House.

PULPIT ROCK, CLARKE’S ISLAND[32] 302

THE EARLY NORMAN DOORWAY AT AUSTERFIELD CHURCH 305

THE OLD FORT AND FIRST MEETING-HOUSE, ON BURIAL

HILL, 1621[33] 307

GOVERNOR EDWARD WINSLOW[34] 313

THE HARBOR[35] 321

PLYMOUTH IN 1622[36] 323

THE “MAYFLOWER” IN PLYMOUTH HARBOR[37] 333

From the painting by W. F. Halsall, in Pilgrim Hall.

THE OLD COLONY SEAL 334

THE LANDING OF THE FATHERS, PLYMOUTH, DECEMBER 22,

1620 335

Copied from an old painting on glass.

THE FULLER CRADLE 337

AN OLD ENGLISH SPINNING-WHEEL 338

THE DOTEN HOUSE, 1660[38] 339

The oldest house in Plymouth.

THE GRAVE OF DR. FRANCIS LE BARRAN, THE NAMELESS

NOBLEMAN[39] 342

SEAL OF THE CITY OF PLYMOUTH 343

CAPE COD TOWNS

THE BEACH, FALMOUTH[40] 347

MAP OF CAPE COD SECTION[41] 349

PROVINCETOWN 355

WHARVES AT PROVINCETOWN 359

PROVINCETOWN IN 1839 363

From an old drawing.

HIGHLAND LIGHT 371

OYSTER POINT, WELLFLEET 373

BISHOP AND CLERK LIGHT, HYANNIS 376

OLD WINDMILL, EASTHAM 378

RUINS OF THE CHATHAM LIGHT 383

LIFE-SAVING STATION AT WELLFLEET 386

BASS RIVER BRIDGE, SOUTH YARMOUTH 387

BARNSTABLE INN 389

BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF FALMOUTH[42] 395

THE VILLAGE GREEN[43] 397

SHIRICK’S POND, FALMOUTH[44] 399

THE WHALE-SHIP “COMMODORE MORRIS” AND THE FALMOUTH

CAPTAINS WHO SAILED IN HER[45] 401

DEERFIELD

OLD DEERFIELD STREET, 1671-1898 405

FRARY HOUSE, 1698 408

Oldest in the county.

THIRD MEETING-HOUSE, 1695-1729 419

(Old Indian house on the right.)

PARSON WILLIAMS’S HOUSE 421

Built by the town, 1707--standing 1898.

DOOR OF “OLD INDIAN HOUSE” HACKED BY INDIANS 423

Now in Memorial Hall.

TOMBSTONES OF REV. JOHN WILLIAMS AND HIS WIFE 425

STEPHEN WILLIAMS, 1693-1782 428

A captive of February 29, 1703-4.

GEORGE FULLER, 1822-1884 437

BUFFET FROM “PARSON WILLIAMS’S” HOUSE 439

Now in Memorial Hall.

NEWPORT

THE OLD STONE MILL 445

NEWPORT IN 1795[46] 447

GEORGE BERKELEY, DEAN OF DERRY[47] 451

WHITEHALL, THE BERKELEY RESIDENCE, BUILT 1729 453

“PURGATORY”[48] 457

ROCHAMBEAU’S HEADQUARTERS[49] 459

LIFE MASK OF WASHINGTON[50] 463

Made by Houdon in 1785.

THE PARSONAGE OF MRS. STOWE’S “MINISTER’S WOOING”[51] 466

DOORWAY OF OLD HOUSE ON THAMES STREET[52] 468

GENERAL NATHANAEL GREENE[53] 471

From one of Malbone’s best miniatures.

SEAL OF THE CITY OF NEWPORT 473

PROVIDENCE

VIEW OF PROVIDENCE 477

From the south.

ROGER WILLIAMS RECEIVED BY THE INDIANS 479

From a design by A. H. Wray.

THE ROGER WILLIAMS MONUMENT 483

STEPHEN HOPKINS[54] 490

BROWN UNIVERSITY 493

FRANCIS WAYLAND 499

THE CAPITOL 503

SEAL OF THE CITY OF PROVIDENCE 506

HARTFORD

MAIN STREET 509

OLD CENTER BURYING-GROUND 513

THE CHARTER OAK 520

OLD STATE HOUSE, NOW CITY HALL 529

Built in 1794.

STATUE OF ISRAEL PUTNAM 539

J. Q. A. Ward, sculptor.

KENEY MEMORIAL TOWER[55] 541

THE CAPITOL 543

SOLDIERS’ MEMORIAL ARCH 545

HARRIET BEECHER STOWE 546

DR. HORACE BUSHNELL 547

From a crayon drawing by S. W. Rowse.

J. HAMMOND TRUMBULL, LL.D. 549

ARMS OF THE CITY OF HARTFORD 551

NEW HAVEN

TEMPLE STREET 555

JOHN DAVENPORT 557

From a portrait in possession of Yale College.

ROGER SHERMAN[56] 561

Photographed from statue on the east front of the Capitol

at Hartford.

JUDGES’ CAVE 567

A HUMANE ENEMY 571

PHELPS HALL 573

OSBORN HALL 577

THE ART BUILDING 579

NOAH WEBSTER[57] 581

ELI WHITNEY 583

EAST ROCK PARK 585

SEAL OF THE CITY OF NEW HAVEN 586

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

INTRODUCTION

BY GEORGE PERRY MORRIS

From the earliest days of the New England Colonies down to the present

time, those European analysts of our national life, whose opinions have

been based on personal observation, have usually conceded that in New

England towns and villages one might, at almost any period of their

history, find a higher average degree of physical comfort, intelligence

and mental attainment, and political liberty and power than was or is to

be found in any other communities of Christendom. Thus Alexis de

Tocqueville, in 1835, wrote:

“The existence of the townships of New England is, in general, a

happy one. Their government is suited to their tastes, and chosen

by themselves.... The conduct of local business is easy.... No

tradition exists of a distinction of ranks; no portion of the

community is tempted to oppress the remainder; and the abuses

which may injure isolated individuals are forgotten in the general

contentment which prevails.... The native of New England is

attached to his township because it is independent and free; his

co-operation in its affairs ensures his attachment to its interest;

the well-being it affords him secures his affection, and its

welfare is the aim of his ambition and of his future exertions. He

takes a part in every occurrence in the place; he practises the art

of government in the small sphere within his reach; he accustoms

himself to those forms which can alone ensure the steady progress

of liberty; he imbibes their spirit; he acquires a taste for order,

comprehends the union of the balance of powers, and collects clear

practical notions on the nature of his duties and the extent of his

rights.”[58]

If this be true, the question inevitably arises, how has it come to

pass? New England, as a whole, is far from fertile. Its winters are long

and severe. Of mineral wealth it has little. The raw materials for its

countless factories and mills, the fuel for its factories, homes, and

railroads, must be obtained in the territory south and west of the

Hudson River. The cereals which furnish the staple diet of its people

come from Western plains. Its best blood and brawn have gone to found

commonwealths ranging from the Alleghany to the Sierra Nevada mountains,

and, into towns once populated and dominated by the purest of English

stock, there have come Irish from Ireland and Canada, French by way of

Canada, Portuguese, Italians, and Jews from Russia, so that, in 1890,

the alien male adult population of the several States was found by the

Federal census takers to be, in Maine, 51.43 per cent.; New Hampshire,

50.5 per cent.; Vermont, 41.25 per cent.; Massachusetts, 46.10 per

cent.; Rhode Island, 49.78 per cent.; Connecticut, 36.52 per cent.

And yet, notwithstanding these economic disadvantages, this depletion of

a population inheriting noble ideals, and the infusion of a class of

settlers holding, in many instances, political and religious convictions

quite at variance with those of the founders of the colonies, the “type”

persists. The New England towns are still unlike, and in some respects

superior to, those of other sections of the country. The New England

States still lead in reformatory legislation. New England’s approval or

disapproval of ideas affecting national destiny still has weight with

Congress and Presidents altogether disproportionate to the number of her

representatives in Congress or her votes in the Electoral College.

If one will walk about New England towns one will find in each a church,

a town-house, and a school, and in most of them a railroad station and a

factory. In the majority of them there will also be a public library,

small perhaps and usually housed in the town-house, but open to all, and

supported from the public funds. In the larger towns, especially in

those where manufacturing is a prominent factor in the communal

prosperity, a hospital, supported by public taxation, is open to all. In

almost every town there is a grass-covered, tree-shaded “common,” which

serves as a village or town park, and on it usually stand memorial

tablets or statues testifying to the valor of the dead who went forth to

fight in the War of the Revolution or in the Civil War.

The church symbolizes that belief in God and that disposition to obey

His will and law which the noblest and wisest men of all ages and climes

have agreed upon as the _sine qua non_ of civic as well as of individual

prosperity, and in this instance it also stands for that separation of

Church and State which our national experience--and that of Canada and

the Australian Colonies as well--shows to be the ideal relation. That

for a time, in the early days of Massachusetts and Connecticut, there

was an unsuccessful attempt to preserve a union of State and Church, an

attempt which had for some of its least commendable incidents the

wholesale hanging of men and women for witchcraft, the expulsion of

Quakers, and the ostracism or exclusion of Roman Catholics and

Anglicans, is not to be denied.

That the people of New England have been duly conscientious is apparent

by the multiplication of churches at home, and by their never-ceasing,

overflowing gifts to establish churches, colleges, schools, and

Christian missions in the South and West and in foreign lands. It is

from the thrifty, prosperous, philanthropic New Englander that the

treasuries of the great Protestant missionary and educational societies

receive their largest average per-capita gifts, and it is to New England

that the steps of the Western and Southern educator still turn for

endowments which his State may not, or the people cannot, or do not,

give.

Peopled by inhabitants given over to introspection, and as fond of

theology as the Scotch, the early New England communities were intensely

religious and sectarian. God to them was a Personal Sovereign,

intimately concerned with their daily life. They were His chosen people,

and, as such, pledged to obedience to His service. The Church was His

Bride; the clergyman was His spokesman, and received the

deference--social as well as official--which was due to one so augustly

commissioned. The social as well as the intellectual life of the

community centred almost exclusively in the life of the church and the

sermons of its clergy. Sectarian animosities were the inevitable product

of a mistaken emphasis put upon the form or utterance of truth, rather

than upon truth itself; or, to put it differently, of a provincialism

and narrowness of vision that made it impossible for the many to

understand that truth is many-sided, that men are different

temperamentally, that revelation is continuous and progressive, and that

religion is not theology. Communities exist in New England where the old

view still obtains, where sectarianism is as rampant as ever, where the

clergyman is the social autocrat as well as the shepherd of souls. But

such towns are becoming fewer and fewer as the years go by, and of

towns of the newer type, where the church is recognized as only one of

the many agents which God has for ushering in His Kingdom on earth, New

England now has quite as many, probably, as are to be found elsewhere.

To those interested in the theological and religious history of

English-speaking peoples, certain New England towns have a peculiar

fascination and value as environments which have affected character.

Northampton, Massachusetts, will ever be a Mecca because of the

identification of Jonathan Edwards with the town. Concord, in the same

commonwealth, has not only the unique glory that belongs to a town where

national history has been made and the best American literature of its

class written by Hawthorne and Thoreau, but also it is the town where

Emerson’s ministerial ancestors lived, where he flowered out and became

that grey-eyed seer

Who in pastoral Concord ways

With Plato and Hafiz walked.

Newport, Rhode Island, with all its present pre-eminence as a place

where “Fashion is a potency ... making it hard to judge between the

temporary and the lasting,” will ever remain most worthy of resort

because it was the birthplace of William Ellery Channing, and, for

thirty years, was the home of the Rev. Dr. Samuel Hopkins, both eminent

as theologians and as brave pioneer antagonists of human slavery. Dr.

Hopkins was the model for the New England pastor described by Harriet

Beecher Stowe in _The Minister’s Wooing_. Northfield, Massachusetts, is

known to thousands of Christians the world over, who have never seen its

rare beauty of river and landscape, because a boy, one Dwight L. Moody,

was born and bred there, and has become the greatest evangelist of

modern times. Litchfield, Connecticut, is famous as the birthplace of

Henry Ward Beecher, and if one wishes flash-light pictures of New

England ecclesiastical and social life at the beginning of this century,

let one read the autobiographic records of Lyman, Henry Ward, Harriet,

and Catherine E. Beecher.

Portland, Maine, is known to thousands throughout the English-speaking

world, who are ignorant of every other fact in its long and honorable

history, because Francis E. Clark there conceived and began that

movement to enlist young people in active Christian service, which is

now known as the International Young People’s Society of Christian

Endeavor, with 54,191 local societies, and more than three and one

quarter million adherents enrolled, Russia alone, of the nations of the

earth, being without a society now. Hartford, Connecticut, with a

discernment and gratitude not always displayed by municipalities, has

named its beautiful municipal park after Horace Bushnell, for many years

its most eminent divine and “first citizen.”

Salem, fascinating as it is because of its connection with the

witchcraft delusion and the early Puritan theocracy; because of its

being for a time the home of Hawthorne, who has preserved its ancient

local color and atmosphere in his fiction; and because of its ancient

glory as a seaport town, whence departed a fleet of sailing craft that

made Salem known throughout the world, in places where Boston and New

York were then unknown, nevertheless derives its chief glory from the

fact that it was the town where Roger Williams, the Welsh statesman and

prophet, found a church willing to sit at his feet. The church’s

loyalty, however, gave way at last to the resistless pressure of the

civil authorities and the zealous ecclesiastical tyrants of the Puritan

commonwealth, and it permitted him to depart, to establish in Rhode

Island a community based upon the principle of entire liberty of

conscience, and majority rule in secular affairs. Massachusetts’ loss

and the world’s gain are thus summed up by Gervinus the German

historian:

“The theories of freedom in Church and State, taught in the schools

of philosophy in Europe, were here [Rhode Island] brought into

practice in the government of a small community. It was prophesied

that the democratic attempts to obtain universal suffrage, a

general elective franchise, annual parliaments, entire religious

freedom, and the Miltonian right of schism would be of short

duration. But these institutions have not only maintained

themselves here, but have spread over the whole Union. They have

superseded the aristocratic commencements of Carolina and of New

York, the High-Church party in Virginia, the theocracy in

Massachusetts, and the monarchy throughout America; they have given

laws to one quarter of the globe, and, dreaded for their moral

influence, they stand in the background of every democratic

struggle in Europe.”

Boston, with all her glories, has none of which she is more proud, than

the fact that within her borders Phillips Brooks was born and labored

most of his life. Those who came within his range of influence said of

him, as Father Taylor said of Emerson, “He might think this or that, but

he was more like Jesus Christ than any one he had ever known.”

To mention Roger Williams, Jonathan Edwards, William Ellery Channing,

Ralph Waldo Emerson, Horace Bushnell, Henry Ward Beecher, Phillips

Brooks, Francis E. Clark, and Dwight L. Moody, is to name the greatest

spiritual forces which New England has known, and towns fed with manna

by such prophets have not failed to indicate the influence of

personality in transforming environment.

The “town-house,” or town-hall, of the New England town or village, in

its architecture, is a modern structure, often as simple, unpretentious,

and unornamented as the “meeting-house” near which it usually stands on

the village green or “town common.” It is the arena wherein rich and

poor, educated and illiterate, wise and foolish, meet, at least

annually, and as much oftener as occasion demands, to decide those

questions of Home Rule which are most vital to all concerned. Education,

wealth, moral worth, shrewd native sense, oratory, gifts of persuasion,

the stirrings of ambition, civic pride, thrift, foresight, all have

their due weight in this forum, this “school as well as source of

democracy”--as Mr. Bryce aptly phrases it. But when the vote is taken,

the blacksmith and the bank president, the master and the servant, the

principal of the high school and the loafer around the village bar stand

on precisely the same footing. The vote of one is as decisive as that of

the other,--no less, no more.

Debate and procedure which have the qualitative character are followed

by voting of the quantitative character, and the result represents

average intelligence and capacity for self-government. But that result,

because it is the product of the expressed will of all, has an authority

more enduring and inspiring than any that the autocracies, oligarchies,

or constitutional monarchies of Europe have ever displayed or now

possess.

Using the town-meeting as a rapier, Samuel Adams

“fenced with the British ministry; it was the claymore with which

he smote their counsels; it was the harp of a thousand strings that

he swept into a burst of passionate defiance, or an electric call

to arms, or a proud pæan of exulting triumph, defiance, challenge,

and exultation--all lifting the continent to independence. His

indomitable will and command of the popular confidence played

Boston against London, the provincial town-meeting against the

royal Parliament, Faneuil Hall against St. Stephen’s.”[59]

This popular government not only enabled the New England Colonies to

lead all the others in the War of the Revolution, it also furnished men

and ideas for the formidable task of constitution-making after the

Revolution was over and independence won. As early as 1773, the rustic

Solons of the town of Mendon, Massachusetts, had resolved in

town-meeting:

“That all men have an equal right to life, liberty, and property.

“Therefore all just and lawful government must originate in the

free consent of the people.

“That a right to liberty and property, which are natural means of

self-preservation, is absolutely inalienable, and can never

lawfully be given up by ourselves or taken from us by others.”

Naturally, a section of the country where such sentiments were held by

village Hampdens had a preponderant influence, when the time came to

draft the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution, and the

readiness of the towns to submit to taxation and to give their sons when

the call to arms came is a matter of unimpeachable record. In the army

of 231,791 soldiers, furnished by the Thirteen Colonies to combat the

forces of Great Britain in the Revolution, the four New England Colonies

sent 118,251 men, Massachusetts contributing 67,907, Connecticut 31,939,

New Hampshire 12,497, and Rhode Island 5,908.

In the War of 1812, New England, as a section, was not very

enthusiastic, but her quota of troops was, nevertheless, forthcoming. In

the Civil War, 1861-65, her troops were the first to respond to the call

of President Lincoln, and, out of 2,778,304 men who enlisted, 363,161

came from New England. Of these, Massachusetts furnished 146,730, Maine

70,107, Connecticut 55,864, New Hampshire 33,937, Vermont 33,288, and

Rhode Island 23,236. In fact, surveying the history of New England towns

from the time when they contributed their quota of men and money to the

aid of the Mother Country in her fight with France to decide who should

be supreme on the North American continent, down to the recent contest

between the United States and Spain, it can truthfully be said of their

democratic form of government that it “is the most powerful and flexible

in history. It has proved to be neither violent, cruel, nor impatient,

but fixed in purpose, faithful to its own officers, tolerant of vast

expense, of enormous losses, of torturing delays, and strongest at the

very points where fatal weakness was most suspected.” And this, be it

remembered, where “the poorest and most ignorant of every race ... are

the equal voters with the richest and most intelligent.” This, too,

where the newly landed, propertyless immigrant from Italy or Russia, if

able to comply with the generous provisions governing naturalization and

the exercise of the franchise, has the same potentiality at the polls as

the thrifty, well-to-do, heavily taxed citizen whose ancestors,

perchance, may have come over with the Pilgrims on _The Mayflower_.

Considered either in its origin or its development, the New England

town-meeting merits the study of all who are interested in the extension

of principles of democracy. The English settlers of New England were, as

Mr. Bryce says, “largely townsfolk, accustomed to municipal life and to

vestry meetings.” They brought with them, as an inheritance from their

Teutonic ancestors, a habit of self-rule which the peculiar isolation of

the colonies and the separate communities in the colonies strengthened;

hence a form of government in which the town was the unit evolved

inevitably.

The more mixed composition of the population in the Middle Atlantic

Colonies, for the same reason, inevitably caused a mixed type of

government to be created there, in which the county or shire divided the

authority with the town; while in the Southern Colonies the immigrants

were of such a character, and the economic conditions so different from

those in New England, that a more aristocratic form of government

evolved, semi-feudal in its type, and the county, rather than the town,

became the important minor political unit within the State, never,

however, having a vigorous independent life, the colony and afterward

the State becoming the source of authority and the end of government.

Long years afterward, in the Civil War, the two types of government

clashed, and the type prevailed which Thomas Jefferson praised and

wished transferred to Virginia, for, said he:

“Those wards called townships in New England are the vital principle of

their governments, and have proved themselves the wisest invention ever

devised by the wit of man for the perfect exercise of self-government

and for its preservation.”

It is well, however, to note, that Mr. Charles Borgeaud, the eminent

Genevan historian, in his work on the _Rise of Modern Democracy_,

disputes the Teutonic origin of the town-meeting, and contends that it

must be credited to the democratic principles of the New Testament as

interpreted and accepted, first by the Brownists of England, and held

later by the Pilgrim Fathers and those of the Puritans who accepted the

Independent form of church government, rather than to any principle of

communal government first evolved by Teutons. He says:

“At the moment when the colonists of New England quitted the Mother

Country, whatever was left of that old self-government which had

been exercised by their forefathers was under the influence of the

general movement, and was undergoing aristocratic transformation.

The vestries, or meetings of the inhabitants of the parish, were

being replaced by committees known as select vestries, which were

originally elected, and then, before long, recruited by

co-optation. Had the American colonists purely and simply imitated

in their new country the system which they had seen at work in

England, they certainly would not have founded the democratic

government of the town-meeting. In order to explain their political

activity, we must take into account, and that largely, their

religious ideas. And we shall be naturally led to do this if we

remember that, in the beginning, each settlement or town was,

before all things, a congregation, and that the town-meeting was in

most cases the same thing as the assembly of the congregation. In

Virginia, where the colonists remained members of the Anglican

Church, there was no town-meeting, but only select vestries as in

England, and these had certainly lost all family likeness, if they

really were related to the _Thing_ and the _Tungemot_.”

In due time, when pioneers from New England found their way to the then

virgin lands of Central New York, the valley of the Ohio, and the

northern half of the vast valley of the Mississippi, they carried with

them the political and religious ideals of New England. Where they were

a large majority of the settlers within a given territory, or where at

the time when its organic structure was forming they dominated it, the

town was established as the political unit in the territory. Such was

the case in Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota. Where New

England settlers joined with those from the Middle States, or the

border States of Kentucky and Virginia, they often found it necessary to

compromise on a system in which the county and the town were peers, as

in Ohio, Indiana, and Iowa. But, as experience has proved, the modified

township system, as it is found in Illinois and Michigan, is more

advantageous than the system of divided authority, and many of the

Western States are gradually adopting it, California, Nebraska, and the

Dakotas having recently made it either permissible or mandatory.

Nor are signs lacking that in the South, as its white population

increases by immigrants from the North, as the patriarchal and pastoral

type of civilization gives way to the modern industrial and corporate

type, as cities and towns multiply, and local as well as State pride has

free chance to develop, there will be an adoption of the modified

township system and a gradual abolition of the county system.

Among the changes of the last half-century in New England, one notable

one has been the tendency of the larger towns to adopt the city form of

government as soon as it was deemed that the increase of population

warranted the step and made it necessary. This fact, as well as the

marked increase of urban population in New England,[60] is counted by

some students of her social development as indicative of retrogression,

however inevitable. Certain it is, that if the town of Brookline, with

its population of 16,164, and its property valuation of $64,169,200,[61]

and annual appropriations of more than $900,000, can still work the

ancient machinery of the town-meeting without the slightest loss either

of a pecuniary or a civic sort, other towns, with a smaller population

and much smaller valuation of property, cannot reasonably claim that

mere physical growth is any warrant for the change from a system so

purely democratic to one less so and much more readily adapted to serve

the ends of partisan bosses and those who batten at the public crib.

The third of the indispensable and ever-present institutions found in

every New England town or village is the public school, open to all and

supported by all. Roman Catholic, Protestant and Jew, Caucasian and

African, French Canadian and Irish, Italian and Portuguese, English and

German, mingle in the school-room and learn the essential likeness of

each to the other, their common and peculiar gifts, and their common

duties to God and the State. No man in the community is so rich or

aristocratic as to escape taxation for support of the school, even

though his children may never darken the doors. No man in the community

is so humble or so poor as to be debarred from sending his children to

the highest as well as to the lowest grades. Unsectarian in the sense

that they derive support from taxpayers of all sects and inculcate the

dogmas of none, secular in the sense that religion is not a part of the

curriculum, they ever have been a bulwark to the cause of religion,

partly by reason of the example of the teaching force, who usually are

men and women with religious faith as well as mental attainment, and

partly because they have developed the rational powers of men, and thus

enabled them to discriminate between superstition and truth. Beginning,

in the more favored and advanced communities, with kindergarten

instruction for young children, and not ceasing until the youth or

maiden is prepared to enter the college or university, the State and the

town, co-operating together, make it possible for every parent to give

to his children, or for every ambitious or friendless boy or girl to

secure for himself or herself, at the public expense, a thorough

preparatory education. Nor is there any item of his yearly tax bill

which the typical New Englander pays with greater alacrity and more

certainty of belief as to its equity or economy than his annual

contribution for popular education. For it is ingrained in his very

being, woven into the texture of his life, to believe, as Garfield said,

that “next in importance to freedom and justice is popular education,

without which neither freedom nor justice can be permanently

maintained.” Moreover, being shrewd as well as a man of high principles

and a lover of learning for its own sake, the New Englander is convinced

that it pays to be educated, and to have educated neighbors and

children. His reasoning takes this form: The more children in the

schools, the fewer youths and adults in the jails and poorhouses. The

better informed the mill operatives, the larger the output of the

mills. The higher the standard of living, the larger the demand for the

product of the soil and the loom, and the better the home market. The

more intelligent the voter, the less the seductive power of the

demagogue and the “political boss.” In short, the New England people

have always believed, and still believe, what the inscription on the

Public Library in Boston declares:

THE COMMONWEALTH REQUIRES THE EDUCATION OF THE PEOPLE AS THE

SAFEGUARD OF ORDER AND LIBERTY.

That the policy has been a wise one, is indicated by New England’s share

in the various struggles for liberty which the country has seen, the

stability of all her institutions, her exemption from disorder and

industrial disputes which culminate in violence, her inhospitality to

“boss rule” in politics, and the thrift and prosperity of her citizens.

Historically speaking, the “public school” is a very ancient New England

institution. Boston had one as early as 1635, and in 1647 the General

Court of Massachusetts enacted:

“That to the end that learning may not be buried in the graves of

our forefathers, it was ordered in all the Puritan colonies that

every township, after the Lord hath increased them to the number of

fifty households, shall appoint one to teach all children to write

and read; and when any town shall increase to the number of one

hundred families, they shall set up a Grammar School, the master

thereof to be able to instruct youth so far as they may be fitted

for the University.”

Nine years earlier, in 1638, the same body had founded a college

(Harvard) at Cambridge, in order, as they said, that “the light of

learning might not go out, nor the study of God’s word perish.” These

two acts of the General Court may be reckoned as the germs from which

has developed that system of secondary and higher education which has

given Massachusetts the place of leader in the history of education in

America.

In 1645, Connecticut passed a law similar to the earlier Massachusetts

statute of 1642, but not until 1701 was Yale University founded at New

Haven. Rhode Island did not have a system of popular education until

just as the eighteenth century was closing. New Hampshire, Maine, and

Vermont accepted the Massachusetts methods and ideals, with some minor

variations.

Devout as were the founders of New England, it followed inevitably that

they should establish institutions where their children might obtain a

distinctly religious training as well as a general education. Thus, for

a long period of New England history, the Christian academy, under

denominational control, flourished just as it does now in the West, and

for much the same reason. As the public-school system has expanded, as

town after town has added the high school to the primary and grammar

school, as sectarian fences have toppled over or ceased to be

restrictive, the academy of the old type has ceased to play the part it

once did in New England life. But, in any survey of the history of

education in New England, it should not be overlooked. Many excellent

institutions of this type still survive to meet the demands of those

persons who either distrust the public high school, or else are unable

to send their children to one, owing to residence in towns where the

school system has not developed to that extent. But, as a rule, the New

England boy and girl, no matter what the social station or wealth of his

or her parent, still “derives his or her preparation for college or life

from the community in which he or she lives.” And, as Phillips Brooks

said in his address at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the

Boston Latin School:

“That is the real heart of the whole matter.... It constitutes the

greatest claim of the public-school system. It represents the

fundamental idea of the town undertaking the education of her

children.... It educates the thought of law and obedience, the

sense of mingled love and fear, which is the true citizen’s true

emotion to his city. It educates this in the very lessons of the

school-room, and makes the person of the State the familiar master

of the grateful subject from his boyhood.... It is in the dignity

and breadth and seriousness which the sense that their town is

training them gives to their training, that the advantage of the

public-school boys over the boys of the best private schools always

consists.”

Emigrating westward, the pioneers from New England carried with them the

public school, the academy, and the college. Connecticut’s settlers in

the Western Reserve, Ohio, took with them conceptions of duty in this

respect, which profoundly affected the future history of the

commonwealth. Ohio has come to be, in this later day, what Virginia was

in the early history of the country--“The Mother of Presidents”--and has

more colleges within its borders than any State in the Union. It was a

Massachusetts soldier, Gen. Rufus Putnam of Rutland, a Congregational

clergyman, Rev. Manasseh Cutler of Hamilton, Massachusetts, and an

Ipswich, Massachusetts, lawyer, Nathan Dane, who founded Marietta, Ohio,

and induced Congress to put into the epoch-marking Ordinance of 1787

governing the Northwest Territory, this remarkable declaration and

article:

“Religion, and morality, and knowledge, being necessary to good

government and the happiness of mankind, schools and means of

education shall forever be encouraged.”

As early as 1797, Muskingum Academy was founded in the territory

conceded, and in due time came Marietta, Oberlin, Wabash, Illinois,

Knox, Beloit, Olivet, and Ripon Colleges, all Christian institutions

within the territory originally governed by the Ordinance of 1787.

Precisely similar has been the record of New England emigrants beyond

the Mississippi. Wherever they have settled and shaped the civic ideals,

whether in the Dakotas, Iowa, Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas, Colorado, or

in California, there they have laid the foundations of a free

public-school system, and of academies and colleges controlled by

Christian educators and trustees. Nor do they cease to believe in the

academy and the college now that the competition of the State university

in the States of the interior and the West is so intense, and the

reliance of the treasuries of these Western Christian institutions upon

the gifts of their friends in New England increases rather than abates.

Impressed with the need, in all sections of the country, of a

well-instructed and intelligent electorate, and convinced that the South

was too poor to provide for itself the schools that its unfortunate

illiterate whites and blacks needed, New Englanders early began to

contribute to the support of academies and colleges in the South. Not

always welcomed by the ruling class, the pioneers in this work

persevered, and many of them have lived long enough to receive the

thanks of those who at first despised and scorned them. Millions of

dollars have gone from New England for the founding and support of such

institutions as Berea College, Kentucky; Atlanta University, Georgia;

Hampton Institute, Virginia; Fisk University, Tennessee; and Tuskeegee

Institute, Alabama. Three New Englanders, George Peabody of Danvers,

Mass., John F. Slater of Norwich, Conn., and Daniel Hand of Guilford,

Conn., have given between them $5,100,000 in bequests or donations for

the establishment or assistance of schools, colleges, and training

schools for teachers in the South. The Peabody Education Fund, from 1868

to 1897, distributed in the South, from its income alone, a sum

amounting to $2,478,527.

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