CHICAGO IN 1831
Fort Dearborn at that day consisted of the same buildings as at
present.[62] They were, of course, in a better state of preservation,
though still considerably dilapidated. They had been erected in 1816,
under the supervision of Captain Hezekiah Bradley, and there was a
story current that, such was his patriotic regard for the interests of
the government, he obliged the soldiers to fashion wooden pins, instead
of spikes and nails, to fasten the timbers of the buildings, and that
he even called on the junior officers to aid in their construction
along with the soldiers, whose business it was. If this were true, the
captain must have labored under the delusion (excusable in one who
had lived long on the frontier) that the government would thank its
servants for any excess of economical zeal.
The fort was inclosed by high pickets, with bastions at the alternate
angles. Large gates opened to the north and south, and there were small
portions here and there for the accommodation of the inmates. The bank
of the river which stretches to the west, now covered by the lighthouse
buildings, and inclosed by docks, was then occupied by the root-houses
of the garrison. Beyond the parade-ground which extended south of the
pickets, were the company gardens, well filled with currant-bushes and
young fruit-trees.
The fort stood at what might naturally be supposed to be the mouth
of the river, yet it was not so, for in those days the latter took
a turn, sweeping round the promontory on which the fort was built,
towards the south, and joined the lake about half a mile below; so that
these buildings, in fact, stood on the right bank of the river, the
left being formed by a long spit of land extending from the northern
shore, of which it formed a part. After the cutting through of tills
portion of the left bank in 1833 by the United States Engineers
employed to construct a harbor at this point, and the throwing out
of the piers, the water overflowed this long tongue of land, and
continually encroaching on the southern bank, robbed it of many
valuable acres; while, by the same action of the vast body of the lake,
an accretion was constantly taking place on the north of the harbor.
The residence of Jean Baptiste Beaubien[63] stood at this period
between the gardens and the river-bank, and still further south was
a rickety tenement, built many years before by Mr. John Dean, the
sutler of the post. A short time after the commencement of the growth
of Chicago, the foundations of this building were undermined by the
gradual encroachment of the lake, and it tumbled backward down the
bank, where it long lay, a melancholy spectacle.
On the northern bank of the river, directly facing the fort, was the
family mansion of my husband. It was a long, low building, with a
piazza extending along its front, a range of four or five rooms. A
broad green space was inclosed between it and the river, and shaded
by a row of Lombardy poplars. Two immense cotton-wood trees stood in
the rear of the building, one of which still remains as an ancient
landmark. A fine, well-cultivated garden extended to the north of the
dwelling, and surrounding it were various buildings appertaining to the
establishment--dairy, bake-house, lodging-house for the Frenchmen, and
stables.
A vast range of sand-hills, covered with stunted cedars, pines, and
dwarf-willow trees, intervened between the house and the lake, which
was, at this time, not more than thirty rods distant.
Proceeding from this point, along the northern bank of the river,
we came first to the Agency House, "Cobweb Castle," as it had been
denominated while long the residence of a bachelor, and the _sobriquet_
adhered to it ever after. It stood at what is now the south-west
corner of Wolcott and N. Water streets. Many will still remember it, a
substantial, compact little building of logs hewed and squared, with
a centre, two wings, and, strictly speaking, two _tails_, since, when
there was found no more room for additions at the sides, they were
placed in the rear, whereon a vacant spot could be found.
These appendages did not mar the symmetry of the whole, as viewed from
the front, but when, in the process of the town's improvement, a street
was maliciously opened directly in the rear of the building, the whole
establishment, with its comical little adjuncts, was a constant source
of amusement to the passers-by. No matter. There were pleasant, happy
hours passed under its odd-shaped roof, as many of Chicago's early
settlers can testify.
Around the Agency House were grouped a collection of log-buildings,
the residences of the different persons in the employ of Government,
appertaining to that establishment--blacksmith, striker, and
laborers. These were for the most part Canadians or half-breeds, with
occasionally a stray Yankee, to set all things going by his activity
and enterprise.
There was still another house on the north side of the river, built by
a former resident of the name of Miller, but he had removed to "Rivière
du Chemin," or Trail Creek, which about this time began to be called
"Michigan City."[U] This house, which stood near the forks of the
river, was at this time vacant.
[Footnote U: I can now recall a petition that was circulated at the
garrison about this period, for "building a brigg over Michigan City."
By altering the orthography, it was found to mean, not the stupendous
undertaking it would seem to imply, but simply "building a bridge over
at Michigan City." An accommodation much needed by travellers at that
day.]
There was no house on the southern bank of the river, between the fort
and "The Point," as the forks of the river were then called. The land
was a low wet prairie, scarcely affording good walking in the dryest
summer weather, while at other seasons it was absolutely impassable. A
muddy streamlet, or as it is called in this country, a _slew_,[V] after
winding around from about the present site of the Tremont House, fell
into the river at the foot of State street.[W]
[Footnote V: The proper orthography of this word is undoubtedly
_slough_, as it invariably indicates something like that which
Christian fell into in flying from the City of Destruction. I spell it,
however, as it is pronounced.]
[Footnote W: A gentleman who visited Chicago at that day, thus speaks
of it: "I passed over the ground from the fort to the point, on
horseback. I was up to my stirrups in water the whole distance. I would
not have given sixpence an acre for the whole of it."]
At a point, on the south side, stood a house just completed by Mark
Beaubien, sen.[64] It was a pretentious white two-story building, with
bright blue wooden shutters, the admiration of all the little circle at
Wolf Point. Here a canoe ferry was kept to transport people across the
south branch of the river.
Facing down the river from the west was, first a small tavern kept
by Mr. Wentworth, familiarly known as "Old Geese," not from any
want of shrewdness on his part, but in compliment to one of his own
cant expressions. Near him were two or three log-cabins occupied by
Robinson, the Pottowattamie chief, and some of his wife's connexions.
Billy Caldwell, the Sau-ga-nash, too, resided here occasionally, with
his wife, who was a daughter of Nee-scot-nee-meg, one of the most
famous chiefs of the nation. A little remote from these residences was
a small square log building, originally designed for a school-house,
but occasionally used as a place of worship whenever any itinerant
minister presented himself.
The family of Clybourn had, previous to this time, established
themselves near their present residence on the North Branch--they
called their place _New Virginia_. Four miles up the South Branch was
an old building which was at that time an object of great interest as
having been the theatre of some stirring events during the troubles of
1812.[X] It was denominated Lee's Place, or Hardscrabble. Here lived,
at this time, a settler named Heacock.
[Footnote X: See Narrative of the Massacre, p. 155.]
Owing to the badness of the roads a greater part of the year, the usual
mode of communication between the fort and "The Point" was by a boat
rowed up the river, or by a canoe paddled by some skilful hand. By the
latter means, too, an intercourse was kept up between the residents of
the fort and the Agency House.
There were, at this time, two companies of soldiers in the garrison,
but of the officers one. Lieutenant Furman, had died the autumn
previous, and several of the others were away on furlough. In the
absence of Major Fowle and Capt. Scott, the command devolved on Lieut.
Hunter. Besides him, there were Lieuts. Engle and Foster--the latter
unmarried. Dr. Finley, the post surgeon, was also absent, and his place
was supplied by Dr. Harmon, a gentleman from Vermont.
[Illustration: MARK BEAUBIEN.
From crayon portrait in possession of Chicago Historical Society.]
My husband's mother, two sisters, and brother resided at the Agency
House--the family residence near the lake being occupied by J. N.
Bailey, the postmaster.
In the Dean House lived a Mr. and Mrs. Forbes, who kept a school.
Gholson Kercheval had a small trading establishment in one of the log
buildings at "Wolf Point," and John S. C. Hogan superintended the
sutler's store in the garrison.
There was also a Mr. Lee lately come into the country, living at the
Point, who sometimes held forth in the little school-house on a Sunday,
less to the edification of his hearers than to the unmerciful slaughter
of the "King's English."[65]
I think this enumeration comprises all the white inhabitants of
Chicago, at a period less than a quarter of a century ago. To many
who may read these pages the foregoing particulars will, doubtless,
appear uninteresting. But to those who visit Chicago, and still more,
to those who come to make it their home, it may be not without interest
to look back to its first beginnings; to contemplate the almost magical
change which a few years have wrought; and from the past to augur the
marvellous prosperity of the future.
The origin of the name Chicago is a subject of discussion, some of
the Indians deriving it from the fitch or pole-cat, others from the
wild onion with which the woods formerly abounded; but all agree that
the place received its name from an old chief, who was drowned in
the stream in former times. That this event, although so carefully
preserved by tradition, must have occurred in a very remote period, is
evident from an old French manuscript brought by Gen. Cass from France.
In this paper, which purports to be a letter from M. de Ligney, at
Green Bay, to M. de Siette, among the Illinois, dated as early as 1726,
the place is designated as "Chicagoux." This orthography is also found
in old family letters of the beginning of the present century.[66]
* * * * *
In giving the early history of Chicago, the Indians say, with great
simplicity, "the first white man who settled here was a negro."
This was Jean Baptiste Point-au-Sable, a native of St. Domingo, who,
about the year 1796, found his way to this remote region, and commenced
a life among the Indians. There is usually a strong affection between
these two races, and Jean Baptiste imposed upon his new friends
by making them believe that he had been a "great chief" among the
whites. Perhaps he was disgusted at not being elected to a similar
dignity by the Pottowattamies, for he quitted this vicinity, and
finally terminated his days at Peoria, under the roof of his friend
"Glamorgan," another St. Domingo negro, who had obtained large Spanish
grants in St. Louis and its environs, and who, at one time, was in the
enjoyment of an extensive landed estate.
Point-au-Sable had made some improvements at Chicago, which were taken
possession of by a Frenchman named Le Mai, who commenced trading with
the Indians. After a few years Le Mai's establishment was purchased
by John Kinzie, Esq.,[67] who at that time resided at Bertrand, or
_Parc aux Vaches_, as it was then called, near Niles, in Michigan. As
this gentleman was, for nearly twenty years, with the exception of
the military, the only white inhabitant of Northern Illinois, some
particulars of his early life may not be uninteresting.
[Illustration: Map of Chicago Portage, from the First U. S. Government
Survey, Circa 1820.
In Possession of Chicago Historical Society.]
He was born in Quebec (L. C.) in 1763. His mother had been previously
married to a gentleman of the name of Haliburton. The only daughter
of this marriage was the mother of Gen. Fleming and Nicholas Low,
Esq., of New York. She is described as a lady of remarkable beauty and
accomplishments. Mr. Kinzie was the only child of the second marriage.
His father died in his infancy, and his mother married a third time a
Mr. Forsyth, after which they removed to the city of New York.
At the age of ten or eleven years he was placed at school with two of
his half-brothers at Williamsburg, L. I. A negro servant was sent from
the city every Saturday, to bring the children home, to remain until
the following Monday morning. Upon on occasion, when the messenger
arrived at the school he found all things in commotion. Johnny Kinzie
was missing! Search was made in all directions; every place was
ransacked. It was all in vain; no Johnny Kinzie could be found.
The heavy tidings were carried home to his mother. By some it was
supposed the lad was drowned; by others that he had strayed away,
and would return. Weeks passed by, and months, and he was at length
given up and mourned as lost. In the meantime the boy was fulfilling a
determination he had long formed, to visit his native city of Quebec,
and make his way in life for himself.
He had by some means succeeded in crossing from Williamsburg to the
city of New York, and finding at one of the docks on the North River
a sloop bound for Albany, he took passage on board of her. While on
his way up the river, he was noticed by a gentleman, who, taking an
interest in the little lonely passenger, questioned him about his
business.
"He was going to Quebec, where he had some friends."
"Had he the means to carry him there?"
"Not much, but he thought he could get along."
It happened, fortunately, that the gentleman himself was going to
Quebec. He took the boy under his care, paid his expenses the whole
distance, and finally parted with him in the streets of the city, where
he was, in truth, a stranger.
He wandered about for a time, looking into various "stores" and
workshops. At length, on entering the shop of a silversmith, he was
satisfied with the expression he read in the countenance of the master,
and he inquired if he wanted an apprentice.
"What, you, my little fellow! What can you do?"
"Anything you can teach me."
"Well, we will make a trial and see."
The trial was satisfactory. He remained in the family of his kind
friend for more than three years, when his parents, who, in removing to
Detroit, had necessarily returned to Canada, discovered his place of
abode, and he was restored to them.
There were five younger half-brothers of the name of Forsyth. In the
old family Bible, we find the following touching record of an event
that occurred after the family had removed to Detroit:
"George Forsyth was lost in the woods 6th August, 1775, when Henry Hays
and Mark Stirling ran away and left him. The remains of George Forsyth
were found by an Indian the 2d of October, 1776, close by the Prairie
Ronde."
It seems a singular fatality that the unhappy mother should have been
twice called to suffer a similar affliction--the loss of a child in a
manner worse than death, inasmuch as it left room for all the horrors
that imagination can suggest. The particulars of the loss of this
little brother were these. As he came from school one evening, he met
the colored servant boy on horseback, going to the common for the cows.
The school-house stood quite near the old fort, and all beyond that,
all that now lies west of Fort street, was a wild, uncultivated tract
called "The Common." The child begged of the servant to take him up
and give him a ride, but the other refused, bidding him return home
at once. He was accompanied by two other boys, somewhat older, and
together they followed the negro for some distance, hoping to prevail
upon him to give them a ride. As it grew dark, the two older boys
turned back, but the other kept on. When the negro returned he had
not again seen the child, nor were any tidings ever received of him,
notwithstanding the diligent search made by the whole little community,
until, as related in the record, his remains were found the following
year by an Indian. There was nothing to identify them, except the
auburn curls of his hair, and the little boots he had worn. He must
have perished very shortly after having lost his way, for the Prairie
Ronde was too near the settlement to have prevented his hearing the
calls and sounding horns of those in search of him.
Mr. Kinzie's enterprising and adventurous disposition led him, as
he grew older, to live much on the frontier. He early entered into
the Indian trade, and had establishments at Sandusky and Maumee, and
afterwards pushed further west, about the year 1800, to St. Joseph's.
In this year he married Mrs. McKillip, the widow of a British officer,
and in 1804 came to make his home at Chicago. It was in this year that
the first fort was built.
By degrees more remote trading-posts were established by him, all
contributing to the parent one at Chicago; at Milwaukie with the
Meenomonees; at Rock River with the Winnebagoes and the Pottowattamies;
on the Illinois River and Kankakee with the Pottowattamies of the
Prairies, and with the Kickapoos in what was called "_Le Large_," being
the widely extended district afterwards erected into Sangamon County.
Each trading-post had its superintendent, and its complement of
engagés--its train of pack-horses and its equipment of boats and
canoes. From most of the stations the "fur and peltries" were brought
to Chicago on pack-horses, and the goods necessary for the trade were
transported in return by the same method.
The vessels which came in the spring and fall (seldom more than two
or three annually), to bring the supplies and goods for the trade,
took the furs that were already collected to Mackinac, a depôt of the
South-West and American Fur Companies. At other seasons they were sent
to that place in boats, coasting around the lake.[68]
* * * * *
Of the Canadian voyageurs or engagés, a race that has now so nearly
passed away, some notice may very properly here be given.
They were unlike any other class of men. Like the poet, they seemed
born to their vocation. Sturdy, enduring, ingenious, and light-hearted,
they possessed a spirit capable of adapting itself to any emergency.
No difficulties baffled, no hardships discouraged them; while their
affectionate nature led them to form attachments of the warmest
character to their "bourgeois," or master, as well as to the native
inhabitants, among whom their engagements carried them.
[Illustration: RESIDENCE OF JOHN KINZIE, ESQ.
(The first house built in Chicago.) From sketch by Mrs. Kinzie, in
original edition.]
Montreal, or according to their own pronunciation, _Marrialle_, was
their depôt. It was at that place that the agents commissioned to make
up the quota for the different companies and traders found the material
for their selections.
The terms of engagement were usually from four to six hundred livres
(ancient Quebec currency) per annum as wages, with rations of one quart
of lyed corn, and two ounces of tallow per diem, or "its equivalent in
whatever sort of food is to be found in the Indian country."
Instances have been known of their submitting cheerfully to fare upon
fresh fish and maple sugar for a whole winter, when cut off from other
supplies.
It was a common saying, "Keep an engagé to his corn and tallow, he will
serve you well--give him pork and bread, and he soon gets beyond your
management." They regard the terms of their engagement as binding to
the letter. An old trader, M. Berthelet, engaged a crew at Montreal.
The terms of agreement were, that they should eat when their bourgeois
did, and what he did. It was a piece of fun on the part of the old
gentleman, but the simple Canadians believed it to be a signal instance
of good luck that had provided them such luxurious prospects. The
bourgeois stuffed his pockets with crackers, and when sure of being
quite unobserved, would slyly eat one. Pipe after pipe passed--the men
grew hungry, but observing that there were no preparations of a meal
for the bourgeois, they bore their fast without complaining.
At length the matter became too serious--they could stand it no
longer. In their distress they begged off from the bargain, and gladly
compounded to take the customary rations, instead of the dainty fare
they had been promising themselves with their master.
On arriving at Mackinac, which was the entrepôt of the Fur Trade, a
small proportion of the voyageur's wages was advanced him, to furnish
his winter's outfit, his pipes and tobacco, his needles and thread,
some pieces of bright-colored ribbons, and red and yellow gartering
(quality binding), with which to purchase their little necessaries from
the Indians. To these, if his destination were Lake Superior, or a post
far to the north, where such articles could not be readily obtained,
were added one or two smoked deer-skins for moccasins.
Thus equipped, he entered upon his three years' service, to toil by
day, and laugh, joke, sing, and tell stories when the evening hour
brought rest and liberty.
There was not wanting here and there an instance of obstinate adherence
to the exact letter of the agreement in regard to the nature of
employment, although, as a general thing, the engagé held himself ready
to fulfil the behests of his bourgeois, as faithfully as ever did
vassal those of his chief.
A story is told of M. St. Jean, a trader on the Upper Mississippi, who
upon a certain occasion ordered one of his Frenchmen to accompany a
party to the forest to chop wood. The man refused. "He was not hired,"
he said, "to chop wood."
"Ah! for what then were you hired?"
"To steer a boat."
"Very well; steer a boat, then, since you prefer it."
It was mid-winter. The recusant was marched to the river-side, and
placed in the stern of the boat, which lay fastened in the ice.
After serving a couple of hours at his legitimate employment, with the
thermometer below zero, he was quite content to take his place with the
chopping-party, and never again thought it good policy to choose work
for himself.
There is an aristocracy in the voyageur service which is quite amusing.
The engagement is usually made for three years. The engagé of the
first year, who is called a "_mangeur-de-lard_," or pork-eater, is
looked down upon with the most sovereign contempt by an "_hivernant_,"
or one who has already passed a winter in the country. He will not
only not associate with him, but if invited by him to join him in
a friendly glass, he will make some excuse for declining. The most
inveterate drunkard, while tortured by a longing to partake his
favorite indulgence, will yet never suffer himself to be enticed into
an infringement of this custom.
After the first winter, the _mangeur-de-lard_ rises from his freshman
class, and takes his place where he can in turn lord it over all
new-comers.
Another peculiarity of the class is their fancy for transforming
the names of their bourgeois into something funny, which resembles
it in sound. Thus Kinzie would be called by one "_Quinze nez_"
(fifteen noses), by another "_Singé_" (monkeyfied). Mr. Kercheval was
denominated "_Mons. Court-cheval_" (short horse), the Judge of Probate,
"_le Juge Trop-bête_" (too foolish), &c. &c. The following is an
instance in point.
Mr. Shaw, one of the agents of the Northwest Fur Company, had passed
many years on the frontier, and was by the voyageurs called Monsieur Le
Chat.[Y] On quitting the Indian country he married a Canadian lady and
became the father of several children. Some years after his return to
Canada, his old foreman, named Louis la Liberté, went to Montreal to
spend the winter. He had heard of his old bourgeois' marriage, and was
anxious to see him.
[Footnote Y: Mr. Cat.]
Mr. Shaw was walking in the Champ de Mars with a couple of officers
when La Liberté espied him. He immediately ran up, and seizing him by
both hands, accosted him--
"_Ah! mon cher Mons. le Chat; comment vous portez vous?_"
"_Tres bien, Louizon._"
"_Et comment se porte Madame la Chatte?_" (How is the mother cat?)
"_Bien, bien, Louizon; elle est tres bien._" (She is very well.)
"_Et tous les petits Chatons?_" (And all the kittens?)
This was too much for Mr. Shaw. He answered shortly that the kittens
were all well, and bidding him call at his house, turned away with
his military friends, leaving poor Louizon quite astonished at the
abruptness of his departure.
* * * * *
Cut off, in the manner described, from the world at large, with no
society but the military, thus lived the family of Mr. Kinzie, in great
contentment, and in the enjoyment of all the comforts, together with
most of the luxuries of life.
The Indians reciprocated the friendship that was shown them, and formed
for them an attachment of no ordinary strength, as was manifested
during the scenes of the year 1812, eight years after Mr. Kinzie came
to live among them.
Some of the most prominent events of that year are recorded in the
following Narrative.