LA VIA DELLA MOSCA.

"This is the way that the Via della Mosca, or the Street of the Fly, got

its name. There once dwelt in it, in a very old house, a family which,

while of rank, were not very wealthy, and therefore lived in a retired

manner. There were father, mother, and one daughter, who was wonderfully

beautiful--_un vero occhio di sole_.

"And as the sun hath its shadow, so there was a living darkness in this

family in a _donna di servizio_, a servant woman who had been many years

with them, who had a daughter of her own, who was also a beauty of a

kind, but as dark as the other was fair; the two were like day and night,

and as they differed in face, so were they unlike in soul. For the young

signora had not a fault in her; she would not have caused any one pain

even to have her own way or please her vanity, and they say the devil

will drop dead whenever he shall meet with such a woman as _that_.

However, he never met with this young lady, I suppose, because he is

living yet. And the young lady was so gentle of heart that she never

said an ill word of any one, while the maid and her mother never opened

their mouths save for gossip and slander. And she was so occupied with

constant charity, and caring for poor children, and finding work for poor

people, that she never thought about her own beauty at all, and when

people told her that _chi nasce bella_, _nasce maritata_ (Whoever is born

pretty is born to be married), she would reply, 'Pretty or ugly, there

are things more important in life than weddings.'

"And so far did she carry this, that she gave no heed at all to a very

gallant and handsome yet good-hearted honourable wealthy young gentleman

who lived in a palazzo opposite, and who, from watching and admiring her,

had ended by falling desperately in love. So he made a proposal of

marriage to her through her parents, but she replied (having had her

mind, in truth, on other things) that she was too much taken up with

other duties to properly care for a husband, and that her dowry was not

sufficient to correspond to his wealth, however generous he might be in

dispensing with one. And as she was as firm and determined as she was

gentle and good, she resolutely kept him at arm's length. But firmness

is nothing against fate, and he 'who runs away with nimble feet, in the

war of love at last will beat.' {189}

"Now, if she was indifferent to the young signore, the dark maid-servant

was not, for she had fallen as much in love with him as an evil, selfish

nature would permit her, and she planned and plotted with her mother by

night and by day to bring about what she desired. Now, the old woman,

unknown to all, was a witch, as all wicked women really are--they rot

away with vanity and self-will and evil feelings till their hearts are

like tinder or gunpowder, and then some day comes a spark of the devil's

fire, and they flash out into witches of some kind.

"The young signore had a great love for boating on the Arno, which was a

deeper river in those days; he would often pass half the night in his

boat. Now, the mother and daughter so contrived it that the young

signorina should return very late on a certain night from visiting the

poor, accompanied by the old woman. And when just in the middle of the

Ponte Vecchio the mother gave a whistle, and lo! there came a sudden and

terrible blast of wind, which lifted up the young lady and whirled her

over the bridge into the rushing river underneath.

"But, as fate would have it, the young man was in his boat just below,

and fortune fell down to him, as it were, from heaven; for seeing a form

float or flit past him in the water and the darkness, he caught at it and

drew it into the boat, and truly Pilate's wife was not so astonished when

the roast capon rose up in the dish and crowed as was this boatman at

finding what he had fished up out of the stream.

"There is a saying of a very unlucky contrary sort of man that _casco in

Arno ed arse_ (He fell in the Arno and burnt himself). But in this case,

by luck, the falling of the young lady into the river caused her heart to

burn with love, for so bravely and courteously and kindly did the young

signore behave, conveying her promptly home without a sign of love-making

or hint of the past, that she began to reconsider her refusal, and the

end thereof was a betrothal, by which the mother and daughter were

maddened to think that they had only hastened and aided what they had

tried to prevent.

"Now, it is true that bad people put ten times as much strong will and

hard work into their evil acts as good folk do into better deeds, because

the latter think their cause will help itself along, while the sinners

know perfectly well that they must help themselves or lose. So the witch

only persevered the more, and at last she hit on this plan. With much

devilish ado she enchanted a comb of thorns, so that whoever was combed

with it would turn into a fly, and must remain one till the witch bade

the victim assume his or her usual form.

"Then on the bridal morn the old woman offered to comb out the long

golden locks of the young lady, and she did so, no other person being

present, so she began her incantation:

"'Earthly beauty fade away,

Maiden's form no longer stay,

For a fly thou shalt become,

And as a busy insect hum,

_Hum--hum--brum--brum_!

_Buzz-uz-uz_ about the room!

"'Ope thine eyes and spread thy wings,

Pass away to insect things.

Now the world will hate thee more

Than it ever loved before

When it hears thy ceaseless hum,

_Buzz-uz-uz_ about the room!'

"And hearing this, the bride sank into a deep sleep, during which she

changed into a fly, and so soared up to the ceiling and about the room,

buzzing indeed.

"Now, with all her cleverness, the witch had missed a stitch in her

sorcery, for she had not combed hard enough to _draw blood_, being afraid

to wake the maid; hence it came to pass that instead of a small common

fly she became a very large and exquisitely beautiful one, with a head

like gold, a silver body, and beautiful blue and silver wings like her

bridal dress. And she was not confined to buzzing, for she had the power

to sing one verse. However, when the change took place, the old woman

rushed from the room screaming like mad, declaring that her young

mistress was a witch who had turned into a fly as soon as she had touched

her with a consecrated comb which had been dipped in holy water, and to

this she added many lies, as that a witch to avoid the holy sacrament of

marriage always changed her form, and that she had always suspected the

signorina of being a witch ever since she had seen her fly in the wind

over the Arno to the young signore.

"But when they went to look at the fly, and found it so large and

beautiful, they were amazed, nor were they less astonished when they

heard it begin to buzz with a most entrancing strangely sweet sound, and

then sing:--

"'Be ye not amazed that I

Am enchanted as a fly,

Evil witchcraft was around me,

Evil witches' spells have bound me:

Now I am a fly I know,

But woe to her who made me so!'

"And when the young signore stretched out his hand, the fly came buzzing

with joy and lighted like a bird on his finger, and this she did with

great joy whenever any of the poor whom she had befriended came to see

her, and so she behaved to all whom she had loved. And when it was

observed that the fly had no fear of holy things, but seemed to love

them, all believed in her song.

"Till one day the young signore, calling all the family and friends

together, said: 'This is certainly true, that she who was to have been my

wife is here, turned into a fly. And as for her being a witch, ye can

all see that she fears neither holy water nor a crucifix. But I believe

that these women here, her nurse and daughter, have filled our ears with

lies, and that the nurse herself is the sorceress who hath done the evil

deed. Now, I propose that we take all three, the fly, the mother, and

daughter, and hang the room with verbena, which I have provided, and

sprinkle the three with much holy water, all of us making the _castagna_

and _jettatura_, and see what will come of it.'

"Then the two witches began to scream and protest in a rage, but as soon

as they opened their mouths, holy water was dashed into their faces,

whereat they howled more horribly than ever, and at last promised, if

their lives should be spared in any manner, to tell the whole truth, and

to disenchant the bride. Which they forthwith did.

"Then those present seized the witches, and said: 'Your lives shall

indeed be spared, but it is only just that ere ye go ye shall be as

nicely combed, according to the proverb which says, "Comb me and I'll

comb thee!"'

"Said and done, but the combing this time drew blood, and the mother and

daughter, shrinking smaller and smaller, flew away at last as two vile

carrion-flies through the window.

"And as the story spread about Florence, every one came to see the house

where this had happened, and so it was that the street got the name of

the _Via della Mosca_ or Fly Lane."

* * * * *

There is a curious point in this story well worth noting. In it the

sorceress lulls the maiden to sleep before transforming her, that is,

causes her death before reviving her with a comb of thorns. Now, the

thorn is a deep symbol of death--naturally enough from its dagger-like

form--all over the world wherever it grows. As Schwenck writes:

"In the Germanic mythology the thorn is an emblem of death, as is the

nearly allied long and deep slumber--the idea being that death kills

with a sharp instrument which is called in the Edda the sleep-thorn,

which belongs to Odin the god of death. It also occurs as a person

in the Nibelungen Lied as Hogni, Hagen, 'the thorn who kills

Siegfried.' The tale of Dornroschen (the sleeping beauty), owes its

origin to the sleep-thorn, which is, however, derived from the

death-thorn, death being an eternal sleep."

This is all true, and sleep is like death. But the soothing influence of

a comb produces sleep quite apart from any association with death.

Apropos of flies, there is a saying, which is, like all new or eccentric

sayings, or old and odd ones revived, called "American." It is, "There

are no flies on him," or more vulgarly, "I ain't got no flies on _me_,"

and signifies that the person thus exempt is so brisk and active, and

"flies round" at such a rate, that no insect has an opportunity to alight

on him. The same saying occurs in the _Proverbi Italiani_ of Orlando

Pescetti, Venice, 1618, _Non si lascia posar le mosche addosso_ (He lets

no flies light on him).

When I was a small boy in America, the general teaching to us was that it

was cruel to kill flies, and I have heard it illustrated with a tale of

an utterly depraved little girl of three years, who, addressing a poor

fly which was buzzing in the window-pane, said:

"Do you love your Dod, 'ittle fy?"

"Do you want to _see_ your Dod, 'ittle fy?"

"Well" (with a vicious jab of the finger), "you SHALL!"

And with the last word the soul of the fly had departed to settle its

accounts in another world. Writing here in Siena, the most fly-accursed

or Beelzebubbed town in Italy, on July 25th, being detained by illness, I

love that little angel of a girl, and think with utter loathing and

contempt of dear old Uncle Toby and his "Go--go, poor fly!" True, I

agree with him to his second "go," but there our sentiments diverge--the

reader may complete the sentence for himself--out of Ernulphus!

On which the wise Flaxius comments as follows on the proof with his red

pencil:

"It hath been observed by the learned that the speed of a fly, were

he to make even a slight effort to go directly onwards, would be from

seventy to eighty miles an hour, during which transit he would find

far more attractive food, pleasanter places wherein to buzz about,

and more beautiful views than he meets with in this humble room of

mine, wherein I, from hour to hour, do with a towel rise and slay his

kind. Oh, reader! how many men there are who, to soaring far and

wide in life amid honeyed flowers and pleasant places, prefer to buzz

about in short flights in little rooms where they can tease some one,

and defile all they touch as domestic gossips do--but, 'tis enough!

_Mutato nomine de te fabula narratur_!"

THE ROMAN VASE

A LEGEND OF BELLOSGUARDO

"From Tuscan Bellosguardo

Where Galileo stood at nights to take

The vision of the stars, we have found it hard,

Gazing upon the earth and heavens, to make

A choice of beauty."--ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNING.

Bellosguardo is an eminence on a height, crowned with an ancient,

castle-like monastery, from which there is a magnificent view of

Florence. It is a haunted legendary spot; _fate_ and witches sweep round

its walls by night, while the cry of the _civetta_ makes music for their

aerial dance, and in the depths of the hill lie buried mystic treasures,

or the relics of mysterious beings of the olden time, and the gnome of

the rocks there has his dwelling in subterranean caves. Of this place I

have the following legend from Maddalena:

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