Visit to Tescuco--Bath of Tescusingo--Otumba--Aqueduct of
Zempoala--Agave Americana--Pyramids of Teotihuacán.
DECEMBER 25, 1825. Mr. P. and myself left Mexico at half past nine
this morning for _Tescuco_. We travelled in a Mexican coach, equipped
in the usual style, and loaded with the usual encumbrances of beds,
&c. Following the road which leads towards _Vera Cruz_ as far as the
little Indian town of _Los Reyes_, we there left it to cross the dry
bed of the lake of _Tescuco_, upon the border of which we had been
riding, to the small village of _La Magdalena_; and soon reached a
pretty and well cultivated country, strewed thickly with villages and
farmhouses (_haciendas_). After passing Chiquluapa and Quautlalpa, we
again were in view of the lake, which an intervening ridge had
intercepted. On the left, less than a league from Tescuco, is the fine
_hacienda_ of Chapingo, owned by the Marquis of Vivanco. Between this
and the town, we passed what is called "El puente de los
Bergantines"--a pile of strongly cemented stone, through which the
road is cut, presenting not the slightest resemblance to a bridge. But
this is classic ground, for here Cortes is said to have launched his
vessels into the lake upon that memorable occasion which preceded the
destruction and capture of the seat of the Mexican Empire. On entering
a place so celebrated in the histories of the Conquest, the wretched
adobe-built houses near the gate of the town, might well diminish the
enthusiasm of the traveller and the antiquarian, were not his
attention caught by a large artificial pile, now in ruins, without the
gate to the right. Every thing connected with this remarkable people
is interesting, even although the remaining vestiges are too slight to
enable one to trace them distinctly and satisfactorily. Such is the
nature of this ruin; but the presumption may not be altogether
unfounded, that this was the site of an ancient temple, and perhaps
the centre of this once great city.
We arrived at two o'clock, the distance from Mexico being seven
leagues by the route we were obliged to travel, but only five across
the lake. After an introduction to the ladies of the house, to which
we had been kindly invited, we were conducted to the cock-pit, where
we were presented to our host. We found it filled with men, women, and
children, all taking a lively interest in the scene; but as we were
less ardent sportsmen, we soon left the place, eager to commence our
rambles in search of antiquities.
We were directed first to the Aduana--custom house--in the _patio_ or
court of which lay a coiled rattlesnake, tolerably well sculptured out
of a block of gray porphyry--its head, however, appeared
disproportionally large. It still wears the mark of paint, although it
has been exposed many years to the weather. Several other figures were
shown to us--one a female with a finely turned shoulder--another was
the arms of Spain, made probably shortly after the conquest--the rest
were imperfect. Thence we were conducted to a house, outside the door
of which was planted for a seat, a part of a human figure, of large
size. In the degraded position it occupied, we could form no opinion
of its excellence.
Thence we strolled to what is called the palace of the Tescucan kings.
Its site fills the western side of the _Plaza_. Traces of its great
extent are every where visible, but not clearly defined, for the
ground it covered has been long cultivated, and a part of it is
planted in _magueyes_. Several large stones still retain the position
they must have occupied in the edifice--those which no doubt formed a
corner, being squared and cut nicely, in a manner which would not be
discreditable to the workmen of the present day in Mexico. At regular
distances of about fifteen feet were placed others, the upper surfaces
of which are rounded irregularly. In an excavation distant a few paces
is a portion of a column, so covered that we could not discover its
dimensions. If a conjecture can be hazarded, these stones were parts
of corridors, supported by stone columns--possibly an excavation may
disclose apartments below. It is, however, futile to form plans upon
such insufficient data. The cutting of a ditch through the western
section of the ruins, has exposed to view stones curiously scooped
out, as if for the use of the founder; and near the centre of the
square is another of a different figure, cut apparently for the same
purpose--perhaps to mould a kettle which should rest on three corners
or feet--the bottom hollowed. We continued our investigations until
nearly dark, when we walked to the church of _San Francisco_, near by,
in the pavement before the door of which, are several of these
anciently wrought stones--some of very large dimensions--one is
circular with a carved surface, but so much worn that we could not
trace its figures.
The walls of the fortress which Cortes is represented to have
constructed for his quarters, were next shown to us. Their height is
about twenty feet--their width at the base about six or seven,
decreasing towards the top. Some pronounce this the work of a more
remote age, but the manner of its construction is sufficient evidence
to the contrary. That it is a work of the Conqueror is a more
reasonable conjecture, though even this is beset with difficulties.
The time Cortes is said to have occupied the city of _Tescuco_,
appears too short to have completed so huge a building: to this,
however, it may be said, that he possessed ample means, with so many
thousand Indians under his orders. But where was the necessity of
raising such strong walls against adversaries so feeble, when, without
so much severe labor, he might have defended himself equally well, and
in the event of his being compelled to abandon it, he would have
encountered less difficulty in recovering possession of it?
Thence we proceeded some distance--the moon shone brightly--to see
other remains of an ancient structure, but being unsuccessful in our
search, we returned to the house of our kind friends, the Camperos.
The town of _Tescuco_ now contains about 5,000 inhabitants--the houses
are of one story only--with regular but unpaved streets, not very
neat. Its modern mediocrity must contrast strongly with its ancient
magnificence, if the early historians of Mexico are to be credited.
During the revolution a ditch was dug around it, in order to repel the
attacks of cavalry. It was assailed several times, and suffered some
injury. It is by no means a pretty town, but is situated amid a pretty
country, and supplied with good water.
DEC. 26. We appointed to-day to visit the mountain of _Tescusingo_.
Before setting out, we made another circuit about the town, and found
on a wall in front of one of the churches, a circular stone, the
circumference of which was curiously carved. Near the northwestern
corner of the _Plaza_ is a well constructed arch of _tetzontli_,
cemented with lime, which had been discovered in opening a ditch--the
extent and purpose of it are alike unknown. We next visited the house
of the Most Holy Trinity, La Casa de la Santissima Trinidad, to
examine an arch of stone, said to have been taken from the ruins of
the palace. Its figure is beautiful--the whole is well wrought--and
would do credit to any edifice. If an antique, of which there seems
very little doubt, it proves beyond any thing I have yet seen, the
civilized state which the Indians of Mexico had attained prior to the
conquest. The arch of three pieces, and four stones which support it,
believed to have once formed a portal in the palace, are perfect. The
latter now are the sides of an entrance to a stable, the arch lies
neglected in the yard--two stones are wanting to complete the supports
to the arch.
We continued our walk to the ruins of an extensive building, upon
which are growing numerous plants of the _maguey_. The layers of
cement are seen distinctly--very smooth and hard. An old woman who
lives near, has collected large pieces of this cement with which she
has paved the _patio_ of her house; so solid is it, that one of our
companions believed it to be stone, until he had tested it with the
hammer.
At eleven o'clock we set out in our coach for the mountain distant
near two leagues to the eastward of _Tescuco_. About a quarter of a
mile from the town, we observed two circular carved stones which we
had not time to examine. After riding a league over the plain, we
stopped at the Molino de las Flores--mill of flowers--a most romantic
spot. Great labor has been expended upon the race for conducting the
water to the mill from the natural dam of rocks, over which the stream
during the rainy season, dashes in torrents into a rugged bed. The
plain from thence to the foot of the mountain being broken by deep
_barrancas_--gullies--our carriage was unable to proceed farther. We
were, therefore, compelled to walk, against our inclinations, for the
sun was scorching, and we were aware of the labor we must encounter in
the ascent of the mountain.
A walk of two miles brought us to the foot of the mountain of
Tescusingo, the steep sides of which covered with _nopal_,[1] we began
to climb slowly. After winding about midway up on the western side,
our guide conducted us to the mouth of an apparently artificial
cavern, with an entrance about six feet high--descending a dozen steps
it takes a new direction. Having no lights we were obliged to leave it
unexplored. Continuing to ascend, we passed towards the southern
declivity, and soon met with cement, which in various parts of the
mountain denotes extensive remains of ancient edifices--with walls
constructed of _tetzontli_--and particularly with a large square stone
hollowed neatly like a drain; and a reservoir for water appeared to
have existed below it. We were now about three-fourths of the distance
up the mountain, and had attained a terrace, along which we walked to
the _Bath of Tescusingo_--the chief object of our visit. This
remarkable work is cut out of a solid rock--hard feldspar
porphyry--which hangs like a bird's nest upon the steep side, which
faces to the south. An irregular platform of seven feet and a half
diameter appears to have been first cut into the rock--the sides of
the rock forming a wall smooth on the inside, nearly two feet and a
half high, the outside left as nature made it--in the centre of this
platform a circular bath is cut out, with a diameter of four feet
seven inches, two feet deep, with two steps to descend into it. A
perforation in one part of the platform shows where the water was
admitted, and it escaped from the bath by a cleft which extends from
top to bottom. The bath was probably covered with a roof--cavities in
the rock seeming to indicate where posts once stood.
[Footnote 1: _Nopal_, a species of cactus.]
The view from this spot is the most beautiful that could have been
selected on the mountain; and warmed by the sun, and sheltered from
the winds of the north, it was, also, the most delightful. The city of
Mexico is seen distinctly, the lake of _Tescuco_ and populous plains
intervening, in the southwest; and to the south rise the snowy
mountains of _Puebla_.
From the bath, we continued our walk along the terrace, upon which
still exist traces of an aqueduct, which, at the eastern extremity of
_Tescusingo_, crossed from the contiguous mountain upon an artificial
pile of stone, conveying water, we were informed, a distance of seven
or eight leagues. We were yet several hundred feet from the top.
Ascending farther, we encountered other remains of structures, and
came to a levelled surface about fifty feet square. All these are
convincing proofs of the numerous edifices which once existed upon
this mountain, but we must ever remain ignorant of their nature and
purpose. Upon the summit, which commands a fine view of the
surrounding country, is a rock of huge size, in which seats have been
cut.
In our descent on the northern side, which is very rough and steep, we
discovered accidentally a flight of seven steps cut out of a single
rock--of these, our guide, an Indian antiquarian of _Tescuco_, had
heretofore been ignorant. Many objects worthy of investigation will no
doubt reward those who should diligently extend their researches upon
the mountain of _Tescusingo_. We reached the foot without further
incident, and rejoined our carriage at the mill, much fatigued with
our ramble under a burning sun. Soon after four we were again under
the roof of our kind host.
After dinner, our friend, Don Nicolas Campero, conducted us to the
ruins which I have already mentioned to be just without the gate of
the town. Their structure and extent are marked by the revolutionary
trenches which surround them. The occasional layers of cement are
perpendicular as well as horizontal, and between them are laid
_adobes_--unburnt bricks--which compose the work. Judging from
appearances, it would not be rash, perhaps, to conjecture that this
was the site of the Great Temple, which, we are assured, was always
constructed upon eminences like this. Its distance from the palace
amply proves the extent of the ancient city of _Tescuco_ to have been
very great.
DEC. 27. After breakfast, we rode a league to see the
_ahuahuetes_[2]--cypress trees--of large dimensions, some of them are
not less than fifty feet in circumference. A large edifice, it is
believed, stood once in the midst of them. There are traces of
buildings. The regularity with which these trees are disposed, proves,
beyond a doubt, that they were planted. They are so regular, that in
order to enclose three sides of a square it was necessary to lay a few
_adobes_ only between them. Two rows of these trees form a long
street. This grove of _ahuahuetes_ is seen distinctly from the city of
Mexico, their deep green contrasting strongly with the dry and open
plain which surrounds them.
[Footnote 2: _Cupressus disticha_. The largest tree known of this
description is at the village of Atlixco, in the state of Puebla. It
is in circumference 23.3 metres, or 76½ English feet.--_Humb. New
Spain_, _l. 3. c. 8, p. 154. Ed. of 1827_.]
We employed the afternoon in revisiting the antiquities of _Tescuco_.
We were also conducted to the garden belonging to the convent of San
Francisco, where a remarkable carved stone lies neglected under a
tree. It is round and represents a man, whose nose is prodigious, in a
kneeling attitude, holding something--what it is we could not
discover--in his hands; behind him is another figure, which defied all
our efforts to decipher it.
At night, we accompanied the young ladies of the house to a ball given
by the principal merchant of the town. The room was filled with men,
women, and cigar smoke. This compelled us to make an early retreat,
for our eyes were not yet insensible to its effect.
DEC. 28. After an early breakfast, and the completion of some repairs
to our coach, we took leave of the excellent family who had
entertained us most hospitably. We now directed our steps towards
_Otumba_. Passing several small villages--some of them are very
picturesque, with their enclosures of the _cactus cylindricus_, which
grows to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet--the country became
barren and uninteresting, until we reached the fine hacienda of _San
Antonio_. Here we deviated from the direct route, but were compensated
for the loss of time by the sight of an extensive stone wall, built to
contain water for the purpose of irrigating the estate, and for the
use of the cattle. This large _presa_--or pond--was the work of the
Jesuits, who formerly owned the finest property in New Spain, and who
were sagacious and industrious in improving their possessions.
Retracing our steps, we passed the extensive buildings of _San
Antonio_, leaving immediately upon our left its beautiful wheat
fields, which the laborers were then engaged in watering. This is the
dry season, and wheat will grow only where it can be irrigated
frequently.
Beyond the village of _San Pedro_, we ascended the _tepetate_[3]
lomes--_lomas_--of the eastern side of the plain of Mexico, upon which
soil the roads are always worn deep and rough. On arriving at the
summit of a low ridge which we were crossing, the Pyramids of
Teotihuacán unexpectedly presented themselves to our view. Though
ignorant that we were so near to them, yet we could not mistake them,
their figure is still so well preserved, whilst centuries have rolled
away since their construction.
[Footnote 3: A hard white clay peculiar to the plains of Mexico,
devoid of vegetation, and very painful to the eyes under a burning
sun. The _lomas_ are the rising ground between the plains and the
mountains.]
Leaving the pyramids and village of San Juan de Teotihuacán to our
left, we travelled on two leagues farther to _Otumba_, where we
arrived at three o'clock, having been six hours on the road from
_Tescuco_. We were told the distance was only seven leagues. It is
true we once lost our way, and our kicking mules occasioned some
detention, but I think another league may be safely added.
A gentleman of _Otumba_, to whom we had brought a letter of
introduction, being unfortunately absent, we were directed to the only
_meson_--public house--in the place, where we took a hasty meal in the
kitchen, having, in the mean time, sent our letter to the gentleman's
brother, who might, we thought, aid us in our research for
antiquities. But this man sent us an uncourteous answer, and we
sallied out in quest of the curate, who was absent also; but we found
what perhaps was better--a remnant of an ancient column in the
churchyard. We met a well dressed man, from whom we expected to glean
some information. He proved to be a stupid lay-priest, who knew
nothing of the existence of any antique in _Otumba_, but he undertook
to inquire at a store near the _plaza_. Those he asked were as
ignorant as himself; but our foreign appearance having by this time
excited some curiosity, several of the inhabitants collected around
us, and learning our wish to find an ancient column which we
understood to exist there, conducted us to the centre of the _plaza_,
where the object of our search was lying prostrate. It is a column of
reddish sand stone, the base, and a portion of the shaft only
remaining, the entire length of which is eight feet two inches. The
shaft is an octagon of unequal sides, and carved with diamond figures
interchained with each other. The lower part of the shaft, one foot
and a half next the base, is of a bulbous figure, also carved. The
diameter of the column is one foot and three quarters. In another
spot, a cleft fragment was shown, seven feet two inches long, said to
have formed a part of the column above described--if so, augmenting
its entire length to fifteen and a half feet, without the capital, of
which we could discover no traces. We were told that this column,
previously to the revolution, was standing in the _plaza_, supporting
the arms of Spain. During the war it was thrown down--has been broken
for various purposes, and its remains now lie neglected, an object of
interest to the curious traveller only.
All our new friends now volunteered to show us something, and we had
nearly seen nothing in the contest of each to carry us to different
places. At length, we effected a compromise, and were carried to
search a _corral_ or cattle yard for the capital of the column. We
looked in vain in yard and stable, notwithstanding one present assured
us he had seen it. We abandoned the pursuit of the evanescent block,
and were conducted by an old man (who was called Cortés, and who
affected to be of pure Indian blood, and to despise all others who
were not,) to his house, in a corner of which was worked a carved
stone--evidently an antique, but it was a work posterior to the
conquest, for it represented an armed man on horseback. Cortés then
carried us to the rear of the church, to see another carved stone, but
it was placed so high in the wall that we could scarcely distinguish
it, but enough appeared to convince us that it bore the arms of Spain.
These instances prove how cautious we must be in adopting the opinions
of the natives on antiquarian matters.
It was now dark, and we returned to our _meson_, as miserable and
cheerless a house of entertainment as traveller ever entered. We made,
nevertheless, a good supper of eggs, _frijoles_ (beans), and wine, of
which we partook in the kitchen.
On making inquiries respecting a celebrated aqueduct which we
understood to exist in the vicinity of _Otumba_, we learned that it
was distant nearly five leagues. We had intended to return to Mexico
on the morrow, but we now determined to visit this work. During the
evening, one of our lately formed acquaintances called to introduce
one of his friends, who politely offered us horses, a favor which we
gladly accepted.
DEC. 29. We rose early, and joined by three of our new acquaintances,
were soon on horseback. One of those who attended us, was manager of
two fine _haciendas_, which we visited on our way to the arches of
Zempoala. The first, Soapayuca, owned by the _Conde de Tepa_, a
Spanish nobleman, is about a league from _Otumba_. Having been burnt
during the revolution it has been rebuilt on an extensive scale. Our
road ran along the _lomes_ of the mountains, through fields of the
_maguey_. About two leagues and a half from _Otumba_, we were shown,
on our left, the plain of _San Miguel_, where Cortes is represented to
have gained his celebrated victory, in the retreat from Mexico to
_Tlascala_. A ride of three leagues brought us to the _hacienda_ of
_Ometusco_--an estate from which _pulque_ only is made, which gives to
its owner, Don Ignacio Adalid, of Mexico, a nett profit, as we were
informed, of $15,000 a year. Here we took breakfast, and after viewing
the buildings, pursued a narrow path through the _magueyes_ to the
_Arcos de Zempoala_.
These arches are sixty-eight in number, crossing a deep valley from
north to south, and are eleven hundred paces in length. The greatest
height is one hundred twenty-two and a half feet, where two arches,
one supported above the other, are thrown across the deep _barranca_.
The width above is four feet and a half, with a narrow, and shallow
channel in the centre for the conveyance of the water. This is a work
of great antiquity, constructed about the year 1540, under the
direction of a Franciscan Monk, to supply Otumba with good water, of
which it is sadly in want. Though made at an immense expense, the
aqueduct is now wholly useless, but the arches are in an excellent
state of preservation.[4]
[Footnote 4: Torquemada relates--Monarquia Indiana, l. 20, c. 63--that
a Franciscan Friar, Francisco de Tembleque, undertook and accomplished
this work, achieving an exploit "which great and powerful kings would
scarcely have undertaken to accomplish, nor would he have engaged in
such a work (although the poet says, fortune favors the bold) if he
had not been inspired by heaven, and aided especially by divine grace,
which overcomes all obstacles and provides the means of easily
surmounting the greatest difficulties." The time taken to execute this
work was 16 or 17 years, five of which were consumed on the principal
arches; "which," our author says, "may be regarded as one of the
wonders of the world." According to his statement, there are
sixty-seven arches (we counted sixty-eight) extending 1059½
_varas_--about 975 yards. The middle arch is 42½ _varas_, about 118
feet high--and 23½ _varas_, about 21½ yards wide, "which fills with
astonishment and wonder those who see so marvellous a work." There are
two other ravines, one crossed by thirteen the other by forty-six
arches. The entire length of the aqueduct was 160,496 Spanish
feet--more than fifteen leagues. Torquemada gives no dates, but this
work appears to have been constructed soon after Tembleque arrived
from Spain, which was in 1538; and our author mentions, that though
built seventy years (he wrote about 1610 or 12) it had not sustained
the smallest injury.
As a specimen of Torquemada's credulity, I extract the following "most
pure truth"--_purisma verdad_. He says that "the good Father Francisco
de Tembleque, had no other companion during this long and painful work
than a large yellow cat, which hunted in the fields by night, and at
daybreak brought to his master the fruits of his hunt, hares or
partridges, for the day's subsistence, which may seem incredible, but
it is a most pure truth: many clergy witnessed this wonderful thing,
who, passing by, stopped at the hermitage at night for the sole
purpose of seeing the fact, and of convincing themselves of the care
of the cat, for it was commonly reported through the land, how he
sustained himself and his master."]
After taking a rough measurement of this magnificent work, we retraced
our steps to the _hacienda_ of Ometusco, where our kind host showed us
the entire process of making _pulque_. A good plant of the _Agave_,[5]
under the most favorable circumstances, reaches maturity in eight
years. This state is indicated by a disposition in the central leaves
to throw up a stalk, which, when permitted to grow, rises to the
height of twelve or fourteen feet, branching at the top not unlike a
chandelier. In this critical state a large incision is made with a
sharp iron bar in the heart; a large basin, as it were, is scooped out
with much care, and being then filled with dry leaves or rubbish, is
permitted to rest unmolested for about six months, when it begins to
yield juice in abundance and of good quality. On being taken from the
plant, which operation an Indian performs morning and evening with a
long gourd acting as a syphon, the _agua miel_, or honey water, as it
is then called, is of a sickening sweetness; but after being poured
into large vats--made of untanned hides, with the hair inside--in one
week it effervesces; but when poured, as in common, upon the lees of
old _pulque_, it is prepared in one or two days, and is carried to
market in hogs' skins. After yielding during six months, from 200 to
250 gallons, and sometimes more, the plant dies, and a young sucker is
planted to succeed it. A plant ready to yield, is worth from eight to
twelve dollars, and produces three or four _cargas_, or mule loads: a
_carga_ is sold in market at four dollars.
[Footnote 5: The American aloe.]
_Pulque_ is intoxicating to those who use it too freely. The taste is
far from pleasant to me, and the odor of it is sickening; but it
improves with use, and when taken moderately is thought to be
wholesome.
The _Agave Americana_ is a most valuable plant. Independently of its
agricultural profits upon barren soils where little else would grow,
it serves a great variety of uses. From _pulque_, a strong brandy is
distilled. This and _pulque_ are the common drink of the people. The
fibres of the leaf of the _maguey_ are manufactured into coarse
cloths, which are used for bagging, as saddlecloths, and for the
_aparejos_, packsaddles; they form thread of every texture, twine, and
rope of the largest size; and the juice of the leaf is efficacious in
the cure of ulcers, especially of the galls and sores of brute
animals: the leaf itself acts in place of gutters and spouts for the
cabins of the Indians, and makes a roof to their rude dwellings: its
prickle or thorn, is a needle in case of necessity; and at certain
stages of its growth the _maguey_ may be taken as food, and was so
used during the revolution by many hungry wanderers.
Thus this plant may be the food, drink, and clothing of the Mexicans;
and from the variety of purposes to which it may be applied, the
_Agave Americana_ may safely be said to be the most valuable of the
vegetable creation.
It was dark when we returned to our lodgings in _Otumba_, having
consumed the whole day in seeing what we might have accomplished in a
few hours; but our friends were so polite, that we were obliged to
submit to their dilatory movements.
DEC. 30. Provided again with horses, we set out at an early hour for
the Pyramids, leaving our carriage to join us at _San Juan de
Teotihuacan_. After a ride of nearly two leagues, we alighted at the
foot of the smaller pyramid, which, although the ascent was steep,
rough, and overgrown with weeds, we soon surmounted. This, more
dilapidated than the larger one, still preserves its pyramidal shape,
so as easily to be distinguished. The construction seems to be of
stones thrown indiscriminately together, and, at occasional intervals,
a layer of lime crosses it horizontally. Upon its summit are the
remains of a small stone building, which bears abundant evidence of
being the work of the Conquerors. It was probably a chapel, built to
fill the place of the temple which it usurped. At the southern foot of
this pyramid is a circle surrounded either by diminutive pyramids, or
by the ruins of small edifices, or perhaps both intermingled. Near the
centre of this circle is a similar ruin, from which proceeds a regular
street forty or fifty feet wide, running north and south, and bounded
on both sides by ruins of apparently small pyramids, on which are
distinct traces of the walls of houses divided into small apartments.
At the head of the street is a large rough stone, with a circle
sculptured on one side of it; beyond the wall of this circle, on the
west, we were shown a singularly cut stone of large size. It is ten
feet three inches long, five feet one inch wide, and four feet five
inches high above the ground, in which it seems partly buried. We
collected every where various wrought pieces of obsidian.
The larger pyramid is a little distant from the street to the east of
it. As our time was limited I ascended it hastily, and found that,
except in size it differs only in one respect from the other: about
midway a terrace extends around it. The faces of both pyramids
correspond with the four points of the compass. The view from them
extends over the lake of _Tescuco_ to the city of Mexico, and beyond
the western barrier of the plain to the snow-capped mountain of
_Toluca_.
The large pyramid of _Teotihuacan_ is called _Tonatiuh Ytzaqual_, or
House of the Sun. According to _Oteyza's_ measurements[6] its base is
208 metres--682½ English feet--its perpendicular height is 55
metres--180.4 feet. The base of the other pyramid is much less than
that of the former. This is called _Mextli Ytzaqual_, or House of the
Moon: its height is 144.4 feet.
[Footnote 6: Humb. T. 2. l. 3. c. 8. p. 66.]
The construction of these pyramids is ascribed to the _Tolteck_
nation, in which event they were built in the eighth or ninth
century.[7] It has been asserted that these and the other Mexican
Pyramids are hollow; but as far as investigations have been carried,
their solidity seems established. Constructed as they are, if they
were hollow the destructive influence of so many centuries which have
elapsed since their erection, would have discovered it. The
supposition is equally ill-founded that they are mere casings or
crusts to natural eminences. So far as rains have laid them open, or
the hand of man exposed to view their interior, all is artificial. It
is idle to argue that if they were completely artificial, the
materials which form them must have been dug from some contiguous
spot, and that this has no where been discovered. Places are seen from
which the materials have been collected; and the circumjacent plain is
strewed thickly with _tetzontli_, quite abundant enough to build other
pyramids, without being reduced to the necessity of digging into the
earth.
[Footnote 7: Humb. T. 2. l. 3. c. 8. p. 67.]
At _San Juan_, about half a league from the pyramids, we rejoined our
carriage, and at 11 A. M. set out for Mexico, distant ten leagues. We
travelled rapidly over a dreary but not a bad road, and passing
_Tololcingo_, crossed the dry bed of the lake of _Tescuco_, shortening
our ride a league or so. At a _venta_, or small inn, near _Santa
Clara_, we had the good fortune to meet with an idol, dug up in the
vicinity, which we bought; it represents a naked female, her hands
crossing her breast, her nose of prodigious size, and hair plaited
down the back. The figure is about two feet high.[8]
[Footnote 8: This idol was sent to the museum of the college at
Charleston, S. C.]
We arrived at _Guadalupe_ at 3 P. M. and an hour's ride over a good
_calzada_, bordered with pretty aspins, brought us to the capital. Our
jaunt has been very delightful, and we have met with great kindness.
From what we have seen of the antiquities of Mexico, we are impressed
with a far more favorable opinion than we had entertained of the
civilized state of the Indians before the Conquest.
For the Southern Literary Messenger.