_My dear Sister:_--
I have really a great mind to give you a _scolding_, instead of a
_description_, for your perusal. What are you all about at the Lodge,
that you have not written to us for this fortnight. Papa and Mamma are
quite out of patience with you, and desire me to request you will
answer this the moment it reaches you. Indeed I hope you _will_, for
they are evidently uneasy in consequence of your long silence.
Now let me tell you of our visit to Versailles. We spent Friday there,
and carrying with us a cold dinner, partook of it under the trees near
the Petit Trianon, having gained a keen appetite by first walking over
the immense palace and its garden; of the splendors of both you are
well aware. We were not much pleased with our rustic mode of eating on
the grass, the premises of the table cloth being frequently invaded by
insects. Like dancing on the turf, such arrangements are pleasanter in
description than in reality. The Petit Trianon was the favorite
residence of Marie Antoinette, and there she passed a great deal of
her time, free from the bustle and formality of the court, and devoted
to rural occupations. The place still exhibits evidences of her taste
and innocent amusements. The grounds are diversified with grottos,
cottages, temples, mimic rivers and cascades. Then there is a
beautiful little music room, a labyrinth, a dairy, and a lake. The
palace is a tasteful edifice, and a part of the furniture is the same
that was used by the decapitated queen.
The Grand Trianon, another palace situated in the park of Versailles,
is superior to this in elegance and embellishments, but not half so
interesting. The parterre behind the mansion, teems with Flora's
choicest gifts, and reminded me of the saying, that "Versailles was
the garden of waters; Marly the garden of trees; but Trianon that of
flowers." In the orangery at Versailles we were shown an orange tree
which is computed to be three hundred years old! It is denominated
"The Old Bourbon," and has been the property of several kings of that
race. Its trunk and foliage are remarkably thick. The garden and park
are five miles in circumference; and only think of these and the
magnificent structure overlooking them, being completed in seven
years! But perhaps did we know the number of workmen employed upon
them during that period, the fact would not seem so amazing.
We rode through the wide streets of the town, visited the Church of
St. Louis, where a simple monument is erected in honor of the Duke de
Berri, and then turned our course homewards, stopping for an hour at
Mendon, a royal chateau that Napoleon fitted up elegantly for his son;
it is now unoccupied, though I believe the Duke de C---- sometimes
spends a few weeks there. A noble avenue leads to the house, and from
the terrace in front of it the prospect is very fine. As we traversed
the grounds, guided by an old soldier, we were quite diverted at the
astonishment he expressed, on discovering from an observation of
Leonora's that she and her family were Americans. "Mais comme vous
êtes blondes!" cried he, "et j'ai toujours en tendu dire que les
habitans d'Amerique étaient rouges ou noirs!"[1]
[Footnote 1: But how fair you are! and I have always heard that the
inhabitants of America are _red_ or _black_.]
At the foot of the hill of Mendon, near the banks of the Seine, are
large quarries of chalk, that we were told merited our attention; but
it was too late to profit by the information, and we hastened on to
Paris.
After resting ourselves and drinking tea, we sallied forth again, and
strolled on the Boulevard as far as Tortoni's, to eat ices. He is
master of a grand caffé, and famous for his ices and déjeunés à la
fourchette. His establishment is splendidly illuminated every night,
and so thronged with customers, that it is often difficult to procure
a seat. Some prefer regaling themselves before the door in their
carriages; and there is generally a range of stylish equipages in
front of the house, filled with lords and ladies, and beaux and
belles, partaking of the cooling luxuries of iced lemonade and creams,
and listening to the bands of ambulatory musicians, that here are
always to be found and heard, wherever there is a crowd. They select
the popular airs of the theatres and those of the first composers of
the day, which are as familiar to the common people as they are to
amateurs.
We recently spent another delightful evening at Count Ségur's. We
found him, as usual, surrounded by the learned and refined; and he met
us with his accustomed smile of benevolence and bonhomie. There was a
lively young relative of his present, and when most of his visiters
had departed, she insisted on his joining her and myself in playing
"l'Empereur est Mort," &c., and with the utmost amiability he complied
with her wishes. The play of l'Empereur is similar to that termed the
"Princess Huncamunca."
While we were at the Count's, Mr. and Mrs. Danville attended a levee
at the Hotel Marine, and the girls accompanied a young friend of
Marcella's, (a Miss Y---- from Soissons) to a fancy ball given by the
children of Madame Clément's seminary. Miss Y---- being a pupil, had
the privilege of inviting two acquaintances, and chose Marcella and
Leonora as her guests. They were highly entertained. All the scholars
wore costumes, and several supported the characters they assumed with
proper spirit. There was a little round, rosy faced girl, of five
years old, decked as a Cupid. She was entwined with a silken drapery,
thickly studded with golden stars; sandals laced on her feet, and a
quiver slung over her plump and naked little shoulders! In her right
hand she held a gilt bow, and her curls were confined by a glittering
bandeau. They danced until ten o'clock, and as none of the masculine
gender were admitted, the elder Misses played the part of beaux. I
should have liked to join in the frolic, I confess, though not upon
condition of foregoing the pleasure we had at No. 13, Rue Duphot,
Count Ségur's residence.
Papa has presented me a beautiful watch, and intends purchasing
another for you. With tender regards to aunt M---- and Albert, I
remain your attached sister