_My dear Sister:_--
I do not wonder that you are surprised at my not having yet described
to you the "Royal Garden of Plants." The fact is, we have been thrice
disappointed in our arrangements to go there, but at last have
accomplished our project, and devoted both Tuesday and Wednesday to
the investigation of this famed spot, and we have seen nothing in
Paris that has interested us more. It is of great extent, and affords
the visiter as much information as amusement. It was founded by Jean
de Brosses, the physician of Louis XIII, and much improved by the
exertions of Buffon the naturalist. It contains various enclosures,
some of which are appropriated to botany, and display every plant,
flower and shrub, native and foreign, that can be made to grow there.
Each is labelled, and bears its botanical name; and there are spacious
hot-houses for such as require shelter and extreme care. We remarked
here some fine specimens of the bread tree and sugar cane. Other
enclosures are filled with all sorts of culinary vegetables. There are
besides, nurseries of fruit trees and samples of different kinds of
fences, hedges and ditches, and of various soils and manures. The
enclosures are separated by wide gravel walks,
"Bounded by trees, with seats beneath the shade,
For talking age and whispering lovers made."
In the centre of the garden is an artificial hill, crowned with a
temple, from which you enjoy a view of the city, and may aid your
sight with a spy glass, by paying a trifle to a man who owns it and
generally sits there, for the purpose of hiring it, and indicating to
strangers the names of the public edifices visible in the perspective.
On the way to the temple, you pass under a huge and towering cedar of
Lebanon, which De Jussieu the botanist planted more than eighty years
ago. This superb tree was considerably injured during the revolution;
and had it not been for the remonstrances and influence of Humboldt
the traveller, the whole garden would probably be now in a ruinous
condition--for when the allies were in Paris, it was owing to his
exertions that the Prussians were prevented encamping there.
The menagerie exhibits the greatest variety of animals. The ferocious
are kept in iron cages; those that are gentle, in enclosures and
habitations suitable to their propensities and natures, and
embellished with such trees and shrubs as are found in their native
climes. Goats for instance, are furnished with artificial acclivities
for climbing, and bears with dens and rugged posts. The populace often
throw biscuits and fruit to the bears, in order to witness their
endeavors to catch them; but this is dangerous diversion, for in doing
this, a boy was not sufficiently alert in his movements, and ere he
withdrew his arm, had it severely lacerated by the eager animal. On
another occasion, a careless nurse, while amusing herself in a similar
manner, let a child fall in, which was instantly devoured! Among the
gentlest and most curious of the quadrupeds, is the giraff, or camel
leopard, which was brought from Africa about two years ago, and threw
all Paris into commotion. Thousands visited him daily, and belts,
reticules, gloves, kerchiefs, and even cakes and blanc mangés were
decorated with his image. It is said that he possesses both sagacity
and sensibility, to prove which the following anecdote is related of
him. As his keepers were bringing him to Paris, they were joined by a
man on horseback, who continued to bear them company for several
miles, until he came to another road. The giraff, which had manifested
great delight when the traveller first appeared, then evinced deep
distress, and even shed tears! Upon inquiry, it was found that the
traveller's horse and the giraff were from the same part of Africa,
and probably old acquaintances. This is a marvellous story, I must
confess; nevertheless, many persons believe it. I will now tell you
another less incredible, and which shews to what perfection the flower
makers here carry their art. The giraff is very fond of rose leaves;
and not long since, seeing a bunch of artificial roses in a lady's
bonnet, and thinking them natural, he seized hold of them, and pulled
with such force, that he soon had possession of hat and all. It must
have been a ludicrous scene. He is so delicate, that strict attention
is obliged to be paid to his food and lodging. The first consists of
_delicate_ vegetables, and the heat of the last is regulated by a
thermometer; and his African attendant sleeps near to guard him and
supply his wants. Leaving the quadrupeds, we proceeded to look at the
birds, which are also admirably arranged. The water fowls have their
pools and lakes--the ostrich its sands, and so on.
I have now detailed what we saw on Tuesday. On Wednesday we returned
to the garden, and examined the Library, the Museum of Natural
History, and the Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy, where, for the first
time in my life, I beheld the human form, divested of its skin and
flesh, and changed to a machine of dried bones and sinews, and
bloodless veins! The sight made me shudder, and I felt relieved when
we came away.
Not far from the Garden of Plants, at the corner of the Rue
Mouffetarde, is the celebrated manufactory of Gobelin Tapestry, which
derives its name from a dyer who first owned the establishment, and
employed himself in coloring worsteds. Colbert, the patriotic champion
of the arts and sciences, during his ministry, occasioned the rise and
perfection of it in the following manner. He engaged workmen to weave
tapestry in imitation of that of Flanders. The attempt succeeded, and
such has been the proficiency of those who have since carried on the
work, that their productions are now equal to any others of the kind.
You may imagine what care and expense is required in the business,
when I inform you that a single piece of tapestry frequently demands
two years labor to finish it, and has cost almost three hundred pounds
sterling!
The clock is striking two, and I must prepare for a ride in the Bois
de Boulogne. It being a delightful afternoon, we shall no doubt find
it alive with carriages, pedestrians and equestrians. Those who repair
there in coaches, usually drive to a pleasant spot, and then descend
to walk to and fro in the shade, for air and exercise, until the
approach of the dinner hour, or some other engagement calls them
elsewhere. Farewell.