Eshmiadzini; his journey enlivened, or at least saved from complete
monotony, by the eccentricities of his Cossack attendant. Ivan, warmed
by a glass of _wodha_, and no way affected by the jolting, which to
his master was martyrdom, basked in the morning sun, and chanted a
ditty of the Don, from time to time turning round his mustached
physiognomy, and looking at the doctor as for applause. An active,
cunning fellow, with a marvellous facility for making himself
understood, even by people of whose language he knew not a syllable,
Dr Wagner was, upon the whole, well contented with him, although
utterly unable to break him of stealing. He never left his night's
quarters without booty of some kind, although his master always warned
the host to keep a sharp eye upon his fingers. But when anything was
to be pilfered, the Don-Cossack's sleight of hand threw into the shade
that of the renowned Houdin himself. Even from the wretched Jesides,
who have scarcely anything to call their own, he carried off a pot of
buttermilk rather than depart empty-handed.
"Carefully as I locked away from him my little stock of
travelling money, he nevertheless found some inexplicable
means of getting at it. At last I adopted the plan of
counting it every evening before his eyes, and making him
answerable for all deficiencies. Still, from time to time,
something was missing, and Ivan employed his utmost eloquence
to convince me of the culpability of the Armenian drivers
whom I occasionally had in my service. I never could catch
him in the fact; but one evening I examined his clothes, and
found a packet of silver rubles in a secret pocket. Whereupon
the Cossack, with a devout grimace, which sat comically
enough upon his sly features, held up his ten fingers in the
air, and swore, by all the saints of the Russian calendar,
that he had economised the sum out of his wages, and had
hidden it for fear of an attack by robbers."
The doctor pardoned his servant's peculations more easily than his
blunders--one of which, that occurred upon the road to Erivan, was
certainly provoking enough to so eager a naturalist. On the lonely
banks of a canal, apparently the work of nature rather than of man,
(although local traditions maintain the contrary,) one of the outlets
of the alpine lake of Chenk-sha, or Blue Water, Dr Wagner encountered
some Armenian anglers, who had secured a rich store of extremely
curious fish. He purchased a dozen specimens, and on arriving at the
next posting station, he bade his Cossack put them in a leathern
bottle of spirits of wine, whilst he himself, armed with the
geological hammer, availed himself of the short halt to explore some
adjacent rocks. On his return, he found Ivan hard at work executing
his orders, in obedience to which this Fair-service from the Don had
duly immersed the icthyological curiosities in alcohol, but had
previously _cut them in pieces_, "in order that on arriving at Erivan,
they might taste more strongly of the pickle."
Eshmiadzini is about fifteen miles from Erivan, across the plain of
the Araxes, a monotonous stony flat, offering little worthy of note.
Dr Wagner had expected, in the church and residence of the chief of
the Armenian Christians, a stately and imposing edifice, something
after the fashion of Strassburg cathedral; and he wondered greatly not
to behold its turrets or spire rising in the distance long before he
came within sound of its bells. In this, as in various other instances
during his travels, by indulging his imagination, he stored up for
himself a disappointment. A clumsy stunted dome, a mud-walled convent,
ugly environs, a miserable village, black pigs wallowing in a pool of
mud--such was the scene that met his disgusted vision. The people were
worthy of the place, but from them he had not expected much. He had
seen enough of the Armenian priesthood at Tefflis, in Constantinople,
and elsewhere, to appreciate them at their just value. Some dirty,
stupid-looking monks lounged about the convent entrance, gossiping and
vermin-hunting. The travellers were conducted into a large room, where
the archbishops held their conclaves. Five of these dignitaries were
seated at a long table, dressed in blue robes with loose sleeves, and
with cowls over their heads. The one in a red velvet arm-chair, at the
head of the table, represented the absent patriarch. He was a handsome
man, with an imposing beard, of which he was very vain. Laying his
hand upon his heart, with an assumption of great dignity, he addressed
a few words of flattering welcome to Dr Wagner, of whose coming he had
been forewarned by the Russian general Neidhardt. "We have long
expected you," he said. "The whole of our clergy rejoice to welcome
within their walls a man of your merit and reputation." The
compliment, although laconic, was not ill turned, but it was
thoroughly insincere. An eruption of Ararat, or a troop of Kurdish
robbers at their gates, were scarcely a more unwelcome sight to the
reverend inmates of Eshmiadzini than is the arrival of a literary
traveller. They well know that little good can be written about them,
and that even Parrot, habitually so lenient in his judgments, gave but
an unflattering sketch of the Armenian priesthood. European learning
is an evil odour in their nostrils, and naturalists, especially, they
look upon as freethinkers and unbelievers, condemned beyond redemption
to an eternal penalty. Moreover, the holy fraternity are accustomed to
measure the importance of their visitors by the Russian standard of
military rank and decorations, and Dr Wagner's plain coat excited not
their respect. With wondering eyes they examined the unassuming
stranger, and asked each other in whispers how the governor-general
could possibly have taken the trouble to announce the advent of an
individual without epaulets or embroidered uniform, without _tschin_
or orders. "When I at last left the room, to visit the church and
other buildings, Archbishop Barsech (the patriarch's substitute)
accompanied me, and seemed disposed to act as my cicerone, but
suddenly bethinking himself, he deemed it perhaps beneath his dignity,
for he hastily retired. I was escorted by an archimandrite, and
Abowian by a young Russian official. Barsech's absence was doubly
agreeable to me, as permitting me to examine at leisure all parts of
the convent, and to ask many questions which the patriarch's reverend
vicar might have deemed scarcely becoming."
The attention of the various English travellers who have written about
Armenia has been chiefly directed to its southern portion, to the
regions adjacent to the great alpine lakes of Urmia and Van. The
northern parts of Upper Armenia, north of Mount Ararat, and adjacent
to Caucasus, have received the notice of several French and German
writers. But most of these took travellers' license to embellish the
places they wrote about; or else the change for the worse since their
visits, now of rather ancient date, has been most grievous. In the
second half of the seventeenth century, three Frenchmen, Tavernier,
Chardin, and Tournefort, gave glowing accounts of the prosperity and
opulence of Eshmiadzini. At the time of Tavernier's visit, (1655,)
large caravans of traders and merchandise were frequently upon the
road, bringing wealth to the country and numerous pilgrims to the
church, many of these being opulent Armenian merchants, whose generous
offerings enriched the shrine. Tavernier was astonished at the
treasures of Eshmiadzini, which apparently had then not suffered from
the spoliating attacks of Turks and Persians. The church was fitted up
with the utmost luxury, and the conventual life was not without its
pleasures and diversions, relieving the wearisome monotony that now
characterises it. In honour of Monsieur Tavernier and of his
travelling companions, the Christian merchants of the caravan, the
patriarch gave a grand bull-fight, in which eight bulls were exhibited
and two killed. Tournefort wrote in raptures of the fertility and
excellent cultivation of the environs of the convent, dividing his
praise between the rich adornments of the church and the blooming
parterres of the garden, and winding up by declaring Eshmiadzini a
picture of paradise. Dr Wagner, who, before visiting a country, makes
a point of reading all that has been written of it, had perused these
glowing descriptions, and was duly disappointed in consequence.
"Good heavens!" he exclaims, in intense disgust, "how little
do those enthusiastic descriptions agree with what is now to
be seen! To-day the convent garden is small, run to waste,
miserably stocked. Instead of pinks and amaranths, which
rejoiced the senses of the lucky Tournefort, I could discern
in this Armenian 'paradise' naught besides turnips and
cabbages, with here and there a stunted, unhealthy-looking
mulberry or apricot tree, and the melancholy wild olive, with
its flavourless fruits. No shade from the sun, nothing
pleasant to the eye. And neither the interior of the convent
nor that of the church exhibit any traces of the splendour
vaunted by the old travellers. In the patriarch's
reception-chamber, the windows are prettily painted in the
Persian style; and here my guide expected, but in vain, to
see me struck with wonder and admiration. In the same room is
a bust of the Emperor Nicholas, dating, doubtless, from the
early years of his reign, for it has no mustaches, and the
breast wants breadth. In the next apartment, where the
patriarch daily receives the higher clergy of the
establishment, is a Madonna, after Raphael, so exquisitely
embroidered in silk, that at a short distance it appears a
painting. This piece of needlework was sent to the patriarch
from Hindostan, by a pious Armenian woman. Then there is an
ivory bass-relief of Abraham's sacrifice; and on the walls
are depicted horrible scenes of martyrdom, especially the
sufferings of St Gregory, buried alive in a deep well. A most
artistically carved arm-chair, occupied by the patriarch upon
state occasions, was also sent, only a few years ago, from
Hindostan, whence, and from other foreign communities of
Armenian Christians, far more gifts are received than from
Tefflis and other neighbouring places inhabited by many rich
Armenians. Behind this arm-chair is a full-length portrait of
the Czar of all the Russias, of whom the prelates never speak
but in a tone of anxious humility."
The church of Eshmiadzini is rich in monkish legends and precious
relics. It contains an altar, through which is a passage into
subterranean excavations, and which stands on the exact spot where the
Saviour is said to have appeared to St Gregory, armed with a club, and
to have hurled the heathen gods and evil spirits into the chasm. To
this day, when, as often happens, the wind whistles through the
vaults, the bigoted and ignorant monks believe they hear the howling
of the tortured demons. Eshmiadzini's relics are renowned far and wide
amongst the scattered Armenian congregations of the East.
"The chamber of relics, situated on the south-east side of
the church, contains, besides the right hand of St Gregory,
(with the possession of this relic, the dignity of the
Catholicos is indissolubly connected,) and a portion of the
skull of St Hripsime, a bit of Noah's ark, and the lance with
which Christ's side was pierced. I expressed a wish to see
these relics, to which the archimandrite replied that their
exhibition could take place only with great ceremonies, with
prayers and choral singing, for which a small pecuniary
sacrifice was necessary. 'Two ducats,' he whispered in my
ear. Curious though I was to have a close view of the lance
and the piece of the ark, and to ascertain what effect the
lapse of so many centuries had had upon them, I thought the
price too high, and as the worthy archimandrite looked
inquiringly in my face, I told him dryly, that for the sight
of a piece of wood, however old and holy, a poor German
naturalist had no ducats to spare."
The first stone of the church of Eshmiadzini was laid by St Gregory in
the year 302, since which date it has frequently been partially
restored, and more than once entirely rebuilt, and now exhibits a very
motley architecture. The convent library would doubtless afford an
Armenian scholar much curious information concerning its history. This
library long lay in dusty heaps in a dark hole, probably to protect it
from the Vandalic outrage of Persian, Kurd, and Turkish plunderers.
When Erivan was annexed to Russia, and law restored to the land, a
room was cleared for it, and a good many volumes were ranged upon
shelves; but a large number, Dr Wagner informs us, still are heaped in
frightful disorder upon the floor. At the time of his visit, the
confusion in this celebrated library was as great as if French
marauders had had the run of it.
"I can aver, as an eye-witness," says the doctor, who gladly
reverts to his African adventures, "that after the storming
of Constantina, when the scientific commission visited the
house of Ben-Aissa, the library of that wealthy _Kurugli_,
which had been ransacked by the conquerors, presented not a
picture of worse desolation than the library of the patriarch
of Armenia's residence. I asked the monk-librarian, who
accompanied me, to show me amongst the historical works the
book of Moses of Chorene. The answer was, he could not find
it. The learned guardian of the library knew not where to
seek even this best-known and most popular of Armenian books
of history! I then inquired the number of the manuscripts.
The monk replied shortly, he did not know it!"
Well might the vicegerent of the Armenian pope--which the Catholicos
in fact is, although his title is improperly rendered by foreigners as
patriarch--and his brother archbishops, feel misgivings at sight of
the quiet-looking German, who replied to their welcome by a gravely
ironical compliment on their many virtues and distinguished
reputation; and who now, having got them upon paper, draws, quarters,
and dissects them with a merciless scalpel. Whatever their previous
experience of note-taking travellers, it was insufficient to guard
them from imprudence, and they allowed Dr Wagner to witness an
examination of the pupils in their clerical seminary. Here proof was
quickly elicited of the almost incredible ignorance of scholars and
teachers. The oldest lad in the school, which included young men
eighteen and twenty years old, was unable to decline the Russian noun
_matj_, (mother,) although, for years past, an archimandrite had
officiated as professor of that language. The professor came to the
assistance of his embarrassed pupil, (whom Abowian questioned,) and
managed to prove beyond possibility of doubt, that he himself did not
know the Russian declensions.
"I now requested Mr Abowian to ask the boys the simplest
possible questions, as, for instance, how many days the year
has. Not one of them could answer, although many were already
bearded men. And from these dunces are selected archbishops
for all Armenia! The instruction in this convent-seminary is
limited to mechanical learning by rote, and to a heedless and
unmeaning repetition of prayers and Scripture passages. The
scholars are well drilled in respect of fasts; and for the
slightest offence against external order, for unsteadiness
during mass, or the like, they are cruelly chastised with
blows. It is not surprising if such treatment extinguishes
all vivacity of intellect. It needs but a glance at the pale,
thin, stolid countenances of the lads, to discern the hideous
effects of their slavish, mind-destroying education. With
deep disgust I left the school."
The absurd hours kept in the convent doubtless contribute to the
unhealthy appearance of these nursling priests. Nothing can be more
ridiculous and ill-judged, or more indicative of barbarous stupidity
and bigotry, than the system adopted at Eshmiadzini. At one in the
morning church-service begins, attended by every one but the
patriarch. The archbishops and bishops read prayers and portions of
Scripture; the archimandrites, deacons, and seminarists sing. This
service lasts from three to four hours, and as every one stands during
its whole duration, it is productive of no slight fatigue. On
returning to their cells and dormitories, those priests who have
private resources take refreshment before retiring to sleep; but the
younger portion of the congregation, who have greatest need of such
sustenance, are generally penniless, and must wait till ten in the
forenoon before obtaining a scanty meal of soup or milk, followed by
rice or fish. During the long fasts even the fish is suppressed. To
break a fast in Armenia is a most heinous sin, far exceeding theft in
enormity. In the day-time, school; in the afternoon and evening, more
chanting and praying; then to bed, to be again roused at
midnight--such is the joyless wearisome life of the inmates of
Eshmiadzini. No study of science or history, no cultivation of the
fine arts, varies the monotony of their tedious existence.
Instrumental music is unknown amongst them. Whatever contributes to
the cheerfulness or elegance of seclusion is rigidly banished and
prohibited. "Nowhere," says Dr Wagner, "does an educated European find
life so tiresome as amongst Armenian monks, in comparison with whom
even Italy's monachism appears genial and agreeable."
The election of the patriarch occurred in April 1843, and Dr Wagner,
in Tefflis at the time, had fully intended witnessing the ceremony;
but a sudden outbreak of the plague, in the province of Erivan,
delayed his visit to Eshmiadzini, as he had no wish to risk a forty
days' quarantine before he should be allowed to re-enter Georgia. He
gives some account of the ceremony at second-hand, which is less
interesting, however, than his narrative of preceding circumstances.
The choice of the Gregorian congregations fell upon Narses, archbishop
of Kischenew, a prelate noted for piety, intelligence, and patriotism,
and so popular, both with priests and laymen, by reason of his mild
and amiable character, that he would have been elected ten years
previously, on the death of old Jephrem (Ephraim)--the venerable
patriarch of whom Parrot and Dubois make mention--but for a serious
dispute with Count Paskewitch.
"In the time of the war between Russia and Persia, when the
crooked sabres of Aderbidjan's Tartars had driven the Cossack
lances across the Araxes, a short pause ensued in the
operations of the campaign, Count Paskewitch awaiting
reinforcements from the interior of Russia before crossing
the Araxes and marching upon Tauris. A division of the
Persian army, chiefly Kurds and Tartars, attempted to
surprise Eshmiadzini; but the reverend tenants were on their
guard, and intrenched themselves behind their lofty earthen
walls. Besieged and sorely pressed by the wild hordes, Narses
(then archbishop of Eshmiadzini) sent a courier to a Russian
colonel, who lay, with a few battalions, a short day's
journey distant. This colonel was an Armenian by birth, and
entertained a child-like veneration for Archbishop Narses.
Unable to resist the latter's earnest entreaty for
assistance, he made a forced march upon the convent, although
he had been strictly forbidden by his general to quit his
position without express orders. Meanwhile the Persians had
been reinforced by a detachment of Abbas Mirza's regular
troops, and were five times the strength of their advancing
foe. In front of Eshmiadzini the Russians suffered a defeat,
and the fault was imputed to Archbishop Narses, whose
priestly influence had moved the colonel to disregard the
orders of his chief. By imperial command, Narses was removed
from Eshmiadzini, and sent as archbishop to Kischenew. But in
1843, when, in spite of his disgrace with the emperor, the
venerated prelate received the unanimous suffrages of the
electors, convoked at Eshmiadzini, Nicholas would not oppose
the manifest wish of priests and laymen, but confirmed the
election. Once more the sun of imperial grace and favour
shone full upon Narses. He was sent for to St Petersburg, was
received with the utmost distinction, and soon the star of
the first class of the order of St Anna glittered upon his
blue caftan. In the autumn of 1844 he crossed the Caucasus,
met a joyful reception at Tefflis, and, amidst sound of bells
and song of priests, re-entered, as spiritual chief of
Armenian Christendom, the old convent upon the Araxes, which,
sixteen years previously, he had quitted almost as an exile.
Narses is eighty years old; his intellects, which long
preserved their healthy tone, have latterly, it is said,
become weakened."
The election here referred to was one of particular significance and
importance. There has been no lack of schism in the Armenian church.
Ambitious priests and false patriarchs have at various periods started
up and found adherents. For several centuries, one of these sham
patriarchates had its seat on an island in the lake of Van, and
maintained itself independent of the Eshmiadzini synod. These Armenian
anti-popes never, however, obtained a very widely-spread influence,
and latterly that which they did enjoy sensibly dwindled. "The
mother-church of Ararat gradually resumed its undivided authority and
privileges, and, in 1843, Eshmiadzini witnessed, what for many years
it had not seen, the presence within its walls of deputies from almost
all the Gregorian congregations of the East, united at the historical
centre of their country for the choice of a spiritual shepherd."
With his usual shrewdness Dr Wagner analyses Russian policy in
Armenia, and for a moment dwells admiringly on its depth, foresight,
and activity. We have already heard him express his conviction that
under the emperor's present moderation, lurk vast designs of future
conquest, which he will bequeath as a legacy to his descendants,
should time and circumstances prevent their execution by himself. This
is the doctor's fixed idea, and he certainly makes out a good case in
its support. He has shown us the extensive forts that are to serve as
depots and places of muster for the Russian armies, which, according
to his theory and belief, will sooner or later assail Turkey and
Persia. He now turns to the consideration of the support the Russians
may expect beyond their own frontier. He extols the wisdom of the
emperor's conduct towards his Armenian subjects, and points out the
ulterior advantages to be derived from it by Russia. We shall conclude
our article by an extract from this curious chapter of a very
interesting book.