JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH--THEY ARE VERY
FRIENDLY--ALLAMURR--DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY--EAST ALLIGATOR
RIVER--CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE--IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF
THE JOURNEY--NATIVES STILL MORE INTELLIGENT--NYUALL--BUFFALOES; SOURCE
FROM WHICH THEY SPRUNG--NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US--MOUNT
MORRIS BAY--RAFFLES BAY--LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK BEHIND--BILL
WHITE--ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON--VOYAGE TO SYDNEY.
Dec. 1.--We travelled about eleven or twelve miles to the northward, for
the greater part through forest land, large tracts of which were occupied
solely by Livistona. A species of Acacia and stringy-bark saplings formed
a thick underwood. The open lawns were adorned by various plants, amongst
which we noticed a species of Drosera, with white and red blossoms? a
Mitrasacme; a narrow-leaved Ruellia, the white primrose, the red
prostrate malvaceous plant, a low shrubby Pleurandra, and an orchideous
plant--one of the few representatives of this family in the Australian
tropics; the most interesting, however, was a prostrate Grevillea, with
oblong smooth leaves, and with thyrsi of fine scarlet flowers; which I
consider to be Grevillea Goodii, R. Br.
We crossed two small creeks, and, at the end of three miles, we came to a
Pandanus brook, the murmuring of whose waters over a rocky pebbly bed was
heard by us at a considerable distance. A broad foot-path of the natives
led along its banks, probably to large lagoons, of which it might be the
outlet. The country became flatter, more densely wooded, and gently
sloping to the northward, when we entered a tea-tree hollow, through
which the mirage indicated the presence of an immense plain, which we all
mistook for the Ocean. We crossed over it to a belt of trees, which I
thought to be its northern boundary. The part of the plain next to the
forest-land was composed of a loose black soil, with excellent grass;
farther on it was a cold clay, either covered with a stiff, dry grass,
apparently laid down by the rush of water, or forming flats bare of
vegetation, which seemed to have been occasionally washed by the tide.
Finding that the belt of trees was a thicket of mangroves along a
salt-water creek, I returned to some shallow lagoons near the forest, the
water of which was drinkable, though brackish and aluminous. To the
westward of the plains, we saw no other limit than two very distant
hills, which I took to be the two hills marked to the southward of the
embouchure of the South Alligator River. To the eastward, we saw another
narrow belt of trees; beyond which, however, the plain evidently
continued. Numerous pillars of smoke were seen to the westward.
A fine north-west breeze set in at three o'clock in the afternoon, and
refreshed us, as well as the cattle, which were suffering most severely
from heat and fatigue.
Dec. 2.--Whilst we were waiting for our bullock, which had returned to
the running brook, a fine native stepped out of the forest with the ease
and grace of an Apollo, with a smiling countenance, and with the
confidence of a man to whom the white face was perfectly familiar. He was
unarmed, but a great number of his companions were keeping back to watch
the reception he should meet with. We received him, of course, most
cordially; and upon being joined by another good-looking little man, we
heard him utter distinctly the words, "Commandant!" "come here!!" "very
good!!!" "what's your name? !!!!" If my readers have at all identified
themselves with my feelings throughout this trying journey; if they have
only imagined a tithe of the difficulties we have encountered, they will
readily imagine the startling effect which these, as it were, magic words
produced--we were electrified--our joy knew no limits, and I was ready to
embrace the fellows, who, seeing the happiness with which they inspired
us, joined, with a most merry grin, in the loud expression of our
feelings. We gave them various presents, particularly leather belts, and
received in return a great number of bunches of goose feathers, which the
natives use to brush away the flies. They knew the white people of
Victoria, and called them Balanda, which is nothing more than
"Hollanders;" a name used by the Malays, from whom they received it. We
had most fortunately a small collection of words, made by Mr. Gilbert
when at Port Essington; so that we were enabled to ask for water (obert);
for the road (allun); for Limbo cardja, which was the name of the
Harbour. I wished very much to induce them to become our guides; and the
two principal men, Eooanberry and Minorelli, promised to accompany us,
but they afterwards changed their minds.
My first object was to find good water, and our sable friends guided us
with the greatest care, pointing out to us the most shady road, to some
wells surrounded with ferns, which were situated in some tea-tree hollows
at the confines of the plains and the forest. These wells, however, were
so small that our horses could not approach to drink, so that we had to
go to another set of wells; where I was obliged to stop, as one of our
horses refused to go any farther. This place was about four miles E.N.E.
from our last camp. The wells were about six or eight feet deep, and dug
through a sandy clay to a stiff bed of clay, on which the water
collected. It would appear that the stiff clay of the plains had been
covered by the sandy detritus of the ridges, from which the water slowly
drained to the wells. It was evident, from the pains which the natives
had taken in digging them, that the supply of fresh water was very
precarious. In many instances, however, I observed that they had been
induced to do so, simply by the want of surface water in the immediate
neighbourhood of places where they obtained their principal supply of
food. This was particularly the case near the sea-coast, where no surface
water is found; whilst the various fish, and even vegetable productions,
attract the natives, who will, in such a case, even contract the habit of
going the longest possible time without water, or, at least, with very
little, as is well shown in Mr. Eyre's journey round the Australian
Bight. We had to water our horses and the bullock with the stew pot; and
had to hobble the latter, to prevent his straying, and attacking the
natives.
The natives were remarkably kind and attentive, and offered us the rind
of the rose-coloured Eugenia apple, the cabbage of the Seaforthia palm, a
fruit which I did not know, and the nut-like swelling of the rhizoma of
either a grass or a sedge. The last had a sweet taste, was very mealy and
nourishing, and the best article of the food of the natives we had yet
tasted. They called it "Allamurr" (the natives of Port Essington,
"Murnatt"), and were extremely fond of it. The plant grew in depressions
of the plains, where the boys and young men were occupied the whole day
in digging for it. The women went in search of other food; either to the
sea-coast to collect shell-fish,--and many were the broad paths which led
across the plains from the forest land to the salt-water--or to the
brushes to gather the fruits of the season, and the cabbage of the palms.
The men armed with a wommala, and with a bundle of goose spears, made of
a strong reed or bamboo (?), gave up their time to hunting. It seemed
that they speared the geese only when flying; and would crouch down
whenever they saw a flight of them approaching: the geese, however, knew
their enemies so well, that they immediately turned upon seeing a native
rise to put his spear into the throwing stick. Some of my companions
asserted that they had seen them hit their object at the almost
incredible distance of 200 yards: but, making all due allowance for the
guess, I could not help thinking how formidable they would have been had
they been enemies instead of friends. They remained with us the whole
afternoon; all the tribe and many visitors, in all about seventy persons,
squatting down with crossed legs in the narrow shades of the trunks of
trees, and shifting their position as the sun advanced. Their wives were
out in search of food; but many of their children were with them, which
they duly introduced to us. They were fine, stout, well made men, with
pleasing and intelligent countenances. One or two attempts were made to
rob us of some trifles; but I was careful; and we avoided the unpleasant
necessity of showing any discontent on that head. As it grew late, and
they became hungry, they rose, and explained that they were under the
necessity of leaving us, to go and satisfy their hunger; but that they
would shortly return, and admire, and talk again. They went to the
digging ground, about half a mile in the plain, where the boys were
collecting Allamurr, and brought us a good supply of it; in return for
which various presents were made to them. We became very fond of this
little tuber: and I dare say the feast of Allamurr with Eooanberry's and
Minorelli's tribe will long remain in the recollection of my companions.
They brought us also a thin grey snake, about four feet long, which they
put on the coals and roasted. It was poisonous, and was called "Yullo."
At nightfall, after filling their koolimans with water, there being none
at their camp, they took their leave, and retired to their camping place
on the opposite hill where a plentiful dinner awaited them. They were
very urgent in inviting us to accompany them, and by way of inducement,
most unequivocally offered us their sable partners. We had to take great
care of our bullock, as the beast invariably charged the natives whenever
he obtained a sight of them, and he would alone have prevented their
attacking us; for the whole tribe were so much afraid of him, that, upon
our calling out "the bullock," they were immediately ready to bolt; with
the exception of Eooanberry and Minorelli, who looked to us for
protection. I had not, however, the slightest fear and apprehension of
any treachery on the part of the natives; for my frequent intercourse
with the natives of Australia had taught me to distinguish easily between
the smooth tongue of deceit, with which they try to ensnare their victim,
and the open expression of kind and friendly feelings, or those of
confidence and respect. I remember several instances of the most
cold-blooded smooth-tongued treachery, and of the most extraordinary
gullibility of the natives; but I am sure that a careful observer is more
than a match for these simple children of nature, and that he can easily
read the bad intention in their unsteady, greedy, glistening eyes.
Dec. 3.--The natives visited us very early in the morning, with their
wives and children, whom they introduced to us. There could not have been
less than 200 of them present; they were all well made, active, generally
well-looking, with an intelligent countenance: they had in fact all the
characters of the coast blacks of a good country; but without their
treacherous dispositions. I started in a north-east direction; and as we
were accompanied by the natives, I led our bullock, by the noserope,
behind my horse. After crossing a plain, we were stopped by a large sheet
of salt-water, about three or four miles broad, at the opposite side of
which a low range was visible; when Eooanberry explained that we had to
go far to the south-east and south, before we could cross the river, and
that we had to follow it down again at the other side. He expressed his
great attachment to his wife and child, and obtained leave of us to
return to his tribe, which had already retired before him. Seeing the
necessity of heading the river, which I considered to be the East
Alligator; the longitude of which was, where we first came to it, 132
degrees 40 minutes according to reckoning; I returned to the forest land,
and travelled along its belt of Pandanus, to obtain a better ground for
our cattle, and to avoid the scorching heat of the forenoon sun.
Observing some singularly formed mountains rising abruptly out of the
plains and many pillars of smoke behind them, I tried to get to them, but
was again prevented by the broad salt water. We now steered for a distant
smoke to the south-east by east, and had travelled fully seventeen miles
on, or along extensive plains, when we perceived seven natives returning
on a beaten foot-path, from the salt water to the forest. We cooeed--they
ran! But when we had passed, and Charley stopped behind alone, they came
up to him, and, having received some presents, they showed us some
miserable wells between two tea-tree groves; after which they hastened
home. Our cattle were tired and thirsty, but we could give them nothing
to drink, except about six quarts of brackish water; which fell to the
share of our bullock. The feed, however, was rich and young, and during
the night a heavy dew was deposited, Many flocks of geese came flying low
over the plains, which made us hope that water was not very distant.
Whilst we were passing the head of a small Mangrove creek, four native
dogs, started out of a shady hole; but we looked in vain for fresh water.
The plains, which were very level, with a few melon-holes, were scattered
all over with dead Limnaeas, which showed evidently, that fresh, or
slightly brackish water, covered them occasionally, and for some length
of time. Since we first entered upon the large plains of the Alligator
Rivers, we had seen myriads of the small cockatoo (Cocatua sanguinea,
GOULD), which retired towards night, in long flights from the plains, to
the shade of the drooping tea-trees near the shallow pools of water on
which we encamped. We had also observed several retreats of flying-foxes
in the most shady parts of the Pandanus groves, receiving frequently the
first indication of them by the peculiar odour of the animal.
Cumuli formed very early in the morning, and increased during the day,
sending down showers of rain all round the horizon. The sea breeze set in
at 3 o'clock; and the weather cleared up at sunset, and during the first
part of the night; but after 1 o'clock A. M. became cloudy again, with
inclination to rain; heavy dew fell during the clear part of the night.
Dec. 4.--The natives returned very early to our camp. I went up to them
and made them some presents; in return for which they offered me bunches
of goose feathers, and the roasted leg of a goose, which they were
pleased to see me eat with a voracious appetite. I asked for Allamurr,
and they expressed themselves sorry in not having any left, and gave us
to understand that they would supply us, if we would stay a day. Neither
these natives nor the tribe of Eooanberry would touch our green hide or
meat: they took it, but could not overcome their repugnance, and tried to
drop it without being seen by us. Poor fellows! they did not know how
gladly we should have received it back! They were the stoutest and
fattest men we had met.
We travelled at first to the east, in the direction from which the geese
had come last night, but, arriving at ridges covered with scrubby forest,
we turned to the north-east, and continued in that direction about seven
miles and a half, over iron-stone ridges, when we again entered upon the
plains of the river. Mountains and columns of smoke were seen all along
its northern banks; but we afterwards found that most of those supposed
columns of smoke were dust raised by whirlwinds. We now followed the
river until a vine brush approached close to its bank, into the cool
shade of which our bullock rushed and lay down, refusing to go any
farther; our packhorse and most of our riding horses were also equally
tired. The bed of the river had become very narrow, and the water was not
quite brine, which made me hope that we should soon come to fresh water.
Charley, Brown, and John, had gone into the brush to a camp of
flying-foxes, and returned with twelve, which we prepared for luncheon,
which allowed our bullock time to recover. They gave an almost incredible
account of the enormous numbers of flying-foxes, all clustering round the
branches of low trees, which drooped by the weight so near to the ground
that the animals could easily be killed with endgels. The Seaforthia palm
raised its elegant crown far above the patches of vine brush which we
passed at the river side of the ridges.
After a delay of two hours, we again started, and travelled in a due
south direction towards some thick smoke rising between two steep and
apparently isolated rocky hills: they were about four miles distant, and,
when we arrived at their base, we enjoyed the pleasing sight of large
lagoons, surrounded with mangrove myrtles (Stravadium), with Pandanus,
and with a belt of reeds and Nelumbiums. Man, horse, and bullock, rushed
most eagerly into the fine water, determined to make up for the privation
and suffering of the three last days. The lagoons were crowded with
geese, and, as the close vegetation allowed a near approach, Brown made
good use of the few slugs that were still left, and shot ten of them,
which allowed a goose to every man; a great treat to my hungry party.
Dec. 5.--I determined upon stopping for a day, to allow our cattle to
recover. Every body was anxious to procure geese or flying-foxes; and,
whilst three of my companions went to the flying-fox camp which we had
visited yesterday, loaded with ironstone pebbles for shot, and full of
the most sanguine expectations, Brown was busy at the lagoons, and even
Mr. Roper stirred to try his good luck. The two met with a party of
natives, who immediately retreated at sight of Mr. Roper; but during the
afternoon they came to the other side of the lagoon opposite to our camp,
and offered us some fish, a Silurus (Mao) and a tench (?) which they had
speared in the lagoons. I made a sign for them to come over and to
receive, as presents in exchange, some small pieces of iron, tin
canisters, and leather belts; which they did; but they became exceedingly
noisy, and one of them, an old rogue, tried to possess himself quietly
and openly of every thing he saw, from my red blanket to the spade and
stew-pot. I consequently sent Brown for a horse, whose appearance quickly
sent them to the other side of the lagoon, where they remained until
night-fall. Brown offered them half a goose, which, however, they
refused; probably because it was not prepared by themselves, as they were
very desirous of getting some of the geese which we had not yet cooked.
Brown had shot nine geese, and our fox hunters returned with forty-four
of the small species.
When the natives became hungry, they ate the lower part of the
leaf-stalks of Nelumbium, after stripping off the external skin. They
threw a great number of them over to us, and I could not help making a
rather ridiculous comparison of our situation, and our hosts, with that
of the English ambassador in China, who was treated also with Nelumbium
by its rich Mandarins.
The natives seemed to speak a less melodious language, which might be
ascribed to the mountainous character of their country. I collected the
following names: Kobboyakka, Nobungop, Kanbinycx, Manguradja, Apirk
(Apek), Yaganyin, Kolar, Kadgupa, Gnanga Gnanga. Ayir meant stone spear;
Ekolpen, jagged fish-spear.
I made the latitude of these lagoons, by an observation of Castor, 12
degrees 23 minutes 19 seconds.
Dec. 6.--The natives visited us again this morning, and it was evident
that they had not been with their gins. They invited us to come to their
camp; but I wished to find a crossing place, and, after having tried in
vain to pass at the foot of the rocky hills, we found a passage between
the lagoons, and entered into a most beautiful valley, bounded on the
west, east, and south by abrupt hills, ranges, and rocks rising abruptly
out of an almost treeless plain clothed with the most luxuriant verdure,
and diversified by large Nymphaea lagoons, and a belt of trees along the
creek which meandered through it. The natives now became our guides, and
pointed out to us a sound crossing place of the creek, which proved to be
the head of the salt-water branch of the East Alligator River. We
observed a great number of long conical fish and crab traps at the
crossing place of the creek and in many of the tributary salt-water
channels; they were made apparently of Flagellaria. Here I took leave of
our guides: the leader of whom appeared to be "Apirk," a young and
slender, but an intelligent and most active man. We now travelled again
to the northward, following the outline of the rocky ridges at the right
side of the creek; and, having again entered upon the plains, we encamped
at a very broad, shallow, sedgy, boggy lagoon, surrounded with Typhas,
and crowded with ducks and geese, of which Brown shot four. It was about
four miles east of our yesterday's camp. Numerous flocks of the Harlequin
pigeon (Peristera histrionica, GOULD) came to drink at this lagoon; and
innumerable geese alighted towards the evening on the plain, and fed on
the young grass, moistened by the rain. The number of kites was in a fair
proportion to that of the geese; and dozens of them were watching us from
the neighbouring trees.
We found a new Eugenia, a tree of rather stunted growth, with broad
opposite leaves, and fruit of the size of an apple, of a delicate
rose-colour, and when ripe, a most delicious refreshment during a hot
day. We had frequently met with this tree on sandstone ridges, and in
sandy soils, but had never before found it in fruit. The day was
distressingly hot, but we had several light showers during the afternoon.
Dec. 7.--"Apirk," with seven other natives, visited us again in the
morning, and it seemed that they had examined the camp we had last left.
They gave us to understand that we could travel safely to the northward,
without meeting any other creek. Apirk carried a little pointed stick,
and a flat piece of wood with a small hole in it, for the purpose of
obtaining fire. I directed my course to a distant mountain, due north
from the camp, and travelled seven or eight miles over a large plain,
which was composed of a rich dark soil, and clothed with a great variety
of excellent grasses. We saw many columns of dust raised by whirlwinds;
and again mistook them for the smoke of so many fires of the natives. But
we soon observed that they moved in a certain direction, and that new
columns rose as those already formed drew off; and when we came nearer,
and passed between them, it seemed as if the giant spirits of the plain
were holding a stately corrobori around us. They originated on a patch of
ground divested of its vegetation by a late fire. There was a belt of
forest to the northward, and the current of the sea-breeze coming up the
valley of the river from N.N.W. seemed to eddy round the forest, and to
whirl the unsheltered loose earth into the air.
Towards the river, now to the west of our course, peaks, razor-backed
hills, and tents, similar to those we had observed when travelling at the
west side of the river on the 3rd December (and probably the same),
reappeared. To the east of the mountain, towards which we were
travelling, several bluff mountains appeared, which probably bounded the
valley of a river flowing to the northward, and disemboguing between the
Liverpool and Mount Morris Bay. For the last five miles of the stage, our
route lay through forest land; and we crossed two creeks going to the
east, and then came to rocky sandstone hills, with horizontal
stratification, at the foot of which we met with a rocky creek, in the
bed of which, after following it for a few miles, we found water. The
supply was small; but we enlarged it with the spade, and obtained a
sufficient supply for the night. A thunder-storm formed to the northward,
which drew off to the westward; but another to the north-east gave us a
fine shower, and added to the contents of our water-hole. A well-beaten
foot-path of the natives went down the creek to the south-east. My
latitude, according to an observation of Castor, was 12 degrees 11
minutes.
We saw the Torres Strait pigeon; a Wallooroo and a red kangaroo
(Osphranter Antilopinus, GOULD). The old camps of the natives, which we
passed in the forest, were strewed with the shells of goose eggs, which
showed what an important article these birds formed in the culinary
department of the natives; and, whilst their meat and eggs served them
for food, their feathers afforded them a protection against the flies
which swarmed round their bodies during the day.
The arborescent Vitex with ternate leaves, which I had first met with at
the Flying-Fox Creek of the Roper, was also observed here.
At this time we were all sadly distressed with boils, and with a prickly
heat; early lancing of the former saved much pain: the cuts and sores on
the hands festered quickly; but this depended much more on the want of
cleanliness than any thing else. A most dangerous enemy grew up amongst
us in the irresistible impatience to come to the end of our journey; and
I cannot help considering it a great blessing that we did not meet with
natives who knew the settlement of Port Essington at an earlier part of
our journey, or I am afraid we should have been exposed to the greatest
misery, if not destruction, by an inconsiderate, thoughtless desire of
pushing onward.
Dec. 8.--I went to the westward, to avoid the rocky ground, and if
possible to come into the valley of the East Alligator River, if the
country should not open and allow me a passage to the northward, which
direction I took whenever the nature of the country permitted. After
crossing the heads of several easterly creeks, we came upon a large
foot-path of the natives, which I determined to follow. It was, in all
probability, the same which went down the creek on which we had encamped
last night: it descended through a narrow rocky gully, down which I found
great difficulty in bringing the horses; and afterwards wound through a
fine forest land, avoiding the rocky hills, and touching the heads of
westerly creeks, which were well supplied with rocky basins of water. It
then followed a creek down into swampy lagoons, which joined the broad
irregular sandy bed of a river containing large pools and reaches of
water, lined with Pandanus and drooping tea-trees. This river came from
the eastward, and was probably the principal branch of the East Alligator
River, which joined the salt-water branch we had crossed in latitude
about 12 degrees 6 minutes. We met another foot-path at its northern
bank, which led us between the river and ranges of rocky hills, over a
country abounding with the scarlet Eugenia, of which we made a rich
harvest. We encamped at a fine lagoon, occupied, as usual, with geese and
ducks, and teeming with large fish, which were splashing about during the
whole night. The situation of these lagoons was, by an observation of
Castor, in lat. 12 degrees 6 minutes 2 seconds; and about nine miles
north-west from our last camp.
Immediately after our arrival, Brown went to shoot some geese, and met
with two natives who were cooking some roots, but they withdrew in great
haste as soon as they saw him. Soon afterwards, however, a great number
of them came to the opposite side of the lagoon, and requested a parley.
I went down to them with some presents, and a young man came over in a
canoe to met me. I gave him a tin canister, and was agreeably surprised
to find that the stock of English words increased considerably; that very
few things we had were new to him, and that he himself had been at the
settlement. His name was "Bilge." He called me Commandant, and presented
several old men to me under the same title. Several natives joined us,
either using the canoe, or swimming across the lagoon, and, after having
been duly introduced to me, I took four of them to the camp, where they
examined everything with great intelligence, without expressing the least
desire of possessing it. They were the most confiding, intelligent,
inquisitive natives I had ever met before. Bilge himself took me by the
hand and went to the different horses, and to the bullock and asked their
names and who rode them. The natives had always been very curious to know
the names of our horses, and repeated "Jim Crow," "Flourbag," "Caleb,"
"Irongrey," as well as they could, with the greatest merriment. Bilge
frequently mentioned "Devil devil," in referring to the bullock, and I
think he alluded to the wild buffaloes, the tracks of which we soon
afterwards saw. We asked him for "Allamurr;" and they expressed their
readiness to bring it, as soon as the children and women, who both went
under the denomination of Piccaninies, returned to the camp. The day
being far advanced, and their camp a good way off, they left us, after
inviting us to accompany them: but this I declined. About 10 o'clock at
night, three lads came to us with Allamurr; but they were very near
suffering for their kindness and confidence, as the alarm of
"blackfellows" at night was a call to immediate and desperate defence.
Suspecting, however, the true cause of this untimely visit, I walked up
to them, and led them into the camp, where I divided their Allamurr
between us; allowing them a place of honour on a tarpauling near me for
the remainder of the night, with which attention they appeared highly
pleased. The night was clear and dewy, but became cloudy with the setting
of the moon.
Dec. 9.--The natives came to our camp at break of day, and Bilge
introduced several old warriors of a different tribe, adding always the
number of piccaninies that each of them had; they appeared very
particular about the latter, and one of the gentlemen corrected Bilge
very seriously when he mentioned only two instead of three. Bilge had
promised to go with us to Balanda, but, having probably talked the matter
over during the night, with his wife, he changed his intentions; but
invited us in the most urgent manner, to stay a day at their camp.
Although no place could be found more favourable for feed and water, and
a day's rest would have proved very beneficial to our cattle, yet our
meat bags, on which we now solely depended, were so much reduced, that
every day of travelling was of the greatest importance; as the natives
told us that four days would bring us to the Peninsula, and two more to
Balanda. We crossed the plain to the westward, in order to avoid the low
rocks and rocky walls which bounded this fine country to the north and
east. After about three miles, however, we turned to the northward, and
travelled with ease through an open undulating forest, interrupted by
some tea-tree hollows. Just before entering the forest, Brown observed
the track of a buffalo on the rich grassy inlets between the rocks. After
proceeding about five miles we crossed a chain of fine Nymphaea ponds;
and, at five miles farther, we came upon a path of the natives, which we
followed to the eastward, along a drooping tea-tree swamp, in the outlet
of which we found good water. Our lat. was 11 degrees 56 minutes; about
ten miles and a half north by east, from Bilge's lagoon. Mitrasacme
elata, and all the other little plants I have before mentioned, were
growing in the stringy-bark forest. A flight of whistling ducks came at
night, and alighted on the ground near our camp; but departed as soon as
they saw us moving. Tracks of buffaloes were again observed by Charley.
The night was clear and very dry.
Dec. 10.--We travelled about seven miles to the northward; but kept for
the first three miles in a N.N.W. direction from our camp, when we came
to a small plain, with a Mangrove creek going to the westward; scarcely
two miles farther, we crossed a drooping tea-tree swamp, of which a
Pandanus creek formed the outlet; and, two miles farther still, a large
plain opened upon us, in which we saw a great number of natives occupied
in burning the grass, and digging for roots. All the country intervening
between the creeks and the plain was undulating stringy-bark forest. I
left my companions in the shady belt of drooping tea-trees, and rode with
Charley towards the natives, in order to obtain information. They were,
however, only women and children, and they withdrew at my approach,
although I had dismounted and left my horse far behind with Charley. They
had, however, allowed me to come near enough to make them understand my
incessant calls for "obeit," water, adding occasionally "Balanda; very
good; no good." When they had disappeared in the forest, Charley came
with the horse, and we reconnoitred along the boundaries of the plain to
find water, but not succeeding, we returned; and, when opposite to the
place where I had left my companions, I cooeed for them to come over to
me. My cooee was answered by natives within the forest, and, shortly
afterwards four men came running out of it, and approached us most
familiarly. They spoke English tolerably, knew the pipe, tobacco, bread,
rice, ponies, guns, etc.; and guided us to a fine lagoon, which I named
after the leading man of their tribe, "Nyuall's Lagoon." Two of them
promised to pilot us to Balanda and to "Rambal," which meant houses. They
were very confiding, and women and children entered for the first time
freely into our camp.
They examined every thing, but made not the slightest attempt to rob us
even of a trifle. When the women returned at night, they did not bring
"Allamurr," or, as it was here called, "Murnatt," but plenty of
"Imberbi," the root of Convolvolus, which grow abundantly in the plain:
they gave us a very seasonable supply of it, but would not taste our
dried beef, which they turned, broke, smelled, and then with a feeling of
pity and disgust returned to us. Nyuall gave an amusing account of our
state: "You no bread, no flour, no rice, no backi--you no good! Balanda
plenty bread, plenty flour, plenty rice, plenty backi! Balanda very
good!"
He, Gnarrangan, and Carbaret, promised to go with us; and the first
intended to take his wife with him. They imitated with surprising
accuracy the noises of the various domesticated animals they had seen at
the settlement; and it was amusing to hear the crowing of the cock, the
cackling of the hens, the quacking of ducks, grunting of pigs, mewing of
the cat, etc. evident proofs that these natives had been in Victoria.
A heavy thunder-storm passed over at 6 o'clock P. M. and the natives
either crowded into my tent, or covered their backs with sheets of
tea-tree bark, turning them to the storm, like a herd of horses or cattle
surprised by a heavy shower in the middle of a plain. Imaru lay close to
me during the night, and, in order to keep entire possession of my
blanket, I had to allow him a tarpauling.
Dec. 11.--We travelled about seven miles N.N.W. over an immense plain,
with forest land and rising ground to the eastward, in which direction
four prominent hills were seen, one of which had the abrupt peak form of
Biroa in Moreton Bay. The plain appeared to be unbounded to the westward.
When we approached the forest, several tracts of buffaloes were seen;
and, upon the natives conducting us along a small creek which came into
the plain from the N.N.E., we found a well beaten path and several places
where these animals were accustomed to camp. We encamped at a good-sized
water-hole in the bed of this creek, the water of which was covered with
a green scum. As the dung and tracks of the buffaloes were fresh, Charley
went to track them, whilst Brown tried to shoot some Ibises, which had
been at the water and were now perched on a tree about 300 yards off. At
the discharge of the gun a buffalo started out of a thicket, but did not
seem inclined to go far; Brown returned, loaded his gun with ball, went
after the buffalo and wounded him in the shoulder. When Charley came back
to the camp, he, Brown and Mr. Roper pursued the buffalo on horseback,
and after a long run, and some charges, succeeded in killing it. It was a
young bull, about three years old, and in most excellent condition. This
was a great, a most fortunate event for us; for our meat bags were almost
empty, and, as we did not wish to kill Redmond, our good companion, we
had the prospect of some days of starvation before us. We could now share
freely with our black friends, and they had not the slightest objection
to eat the fresh meat, after baking it in their usual manner. They called
the buffalo "Anaborro;" and stated that the country before us was full of
them. These buffaloes are the offspring of the stock which had either
strayed from the settlement at Raffles Bay, or had been left behind when
that establishment was broken up. They were originally introduced from
the Malay islands. I was struck with the remarkable thickness of their
skin, (almost an inch) and with the solidity of their bones, which
contained little marrow; but that little was extremely savoury.
We had a heavy thunder-storm at 10 o'clock at night from the southward.
Dec. 12.--Part of the meat was cut up and dried, and part of it was
roasted to take with us; a great part of it was given to the natives, who
were baking and eating the whole day; and when they could eat no more
meat, they went into the plains to collect "Imberbi" and Murnatt, to add
the necessary quantum of vegetable matter to their diet. The sultry
weather, however, caused a great part of the meat to become tainted and
maggotty. Our friend Nyuall became ill, and complained of a violent
headache, which he tried to cure by tying a string tightly round his
head.
The black ibis, cocatua, kites, crows, and a small black and white
species of heron, frequented our water-hole.
The night was extremely close, and, to find some relief, I took a bath;
which gave me, however, a very annoying inflammation of the eyes.
Dec. 13.--At day break, an old man, whom Nyuall introduced to us as
Commandant, came with his gin, and invited us to his camp, about two
miles off. We went to it with the intention of continuing our journey,
and found a great number of women and children collected in very spacious
huts or sheds, probably with the intention of seeing us pass. They had a
domestic dog, which seemed very ferocious. A little farther on, we came
to a small creek, with good water-holes, and our guides wished us to
stop; but, when I told them that we were desirous of reaching Balanda as
soon as possible, and added to my promise of giving them a blanket and a
tomahawk, that of a pint pot, Gnarrangan and Cabaret again volunteered,
and pursuaded a third, of the name of Malarang, to join them. For some
miles, we followed a beaten foot-path, which skirted the large plain, and
then entered the forest, which was composed of rusty-gum, leguminous
Ironbark, Cochlospermum gossypium, and a small apocynaceous tree
(Balfouria, Br.); we crossed several salt-water creeks which went down to
Van Diemen's Gulf. The country near these creeks, was more undulating,
the soil sandy and mixed with small ironstone pebbles; fine tea-tree
flats with excellent grass, on which the buffaloes fed, were frequent.
Along the plain, small clusters of brush protruded into it from the
forest, or covered low mounts of sea shells, mixed with a black soil.
Amongst these copses, the tracks of buffaloes were very numerous.
We travelled about ten miles north-west by north, and encamped at a small
pool of water in a creek, in which the clayey ironstone cropped out. Its
water was so impregnated with the astringent properties of the gum-trees,
that Mr. Phillips boiled and drank it like tea. Before arriving at this
creek, we had a thunder-storm, with heavy rain, from the northward. After
pitching our tents, our guides went out, and returned with a small Iguana
(Vergar), and with pods of the rose-coloured Sterculia, which they
roasted on the coals. I succeeded in saving a great part of our meat by
smoking it.
Our horses were greatly distressed by large horse-flies, and every now
and then the poor brutes would come and stand in the smoke of our fires
to rid themselves of their persevering tormentors. This want of rest
during the night contributed very much to their increasing weakness;
though most of them were severely galled besides, which was prevented
only in two by the most careful attention, and daily washing of their
backs. On this stage we again passed one of those oven-like huts of the
natives, thatched with grass, which I have mentioned several times, and
which Nyuall's tribe called "Corambal." At the place where we encamped,
the ruins of a very large hut were still visible, which indicated that
the natives had profited by their long intercourse with the Malays and
Europeans, in the construction of their habitations.
Dec. 14.--When we started, intending to follow the foot-path, our native
guides remained behind; and, when I had proceeded two or three miles, my
companions came up to me and stated, that the natives had left us, but
that they had given them to understand that the foot-path would conduct
us safely to Balanda. They had attempted to keep the large tomahawk, but
had given it up when Brown asked them for it. I was very sorry at their
having left us, as the cloudy sky had prevented me for several days from
taking any latitude, and determining my position. We crossed a great
number of small creeks, coming from the eastward, and draining the ridges
of the neck of the Peninsula. Scattered Pandanus and drooping tea-trees
grew on their banks as far as the fresh water extended; when they were
succeeded by the salt-water tea-tree and the mangrove, covering and
fringing their beds, which enlarged into stiff plains, without
vegetation, or into mangrove swamps. The latter were composed of
Aegiceras, Bruguiera, and Pemphis. The tracks of the buffaloes increased
in number as we advanced, and formed broad paths, leading in various
directions, and made me frequently mistake them for the foot-path of the
natives, which I eventually lost. A course north 30 degrees west, brought
us to easterly creeks, one of which I followed down, when Brown called
out that he saw the sea. We, therefore, went to the sea-side, and found
ourselves at the head of a large bay, with an island to the north-east,
and with headlands stretching far into the ocean, which was open and
boundless to the northward. It was Mount Morris Bay, with Valentia and
Crocker's islands; the latter, however, appeared to us to be a
continuation of the main land. We now went to the north-west and
westward, until we came again on westerly waters. The country in the
centre of the neck of the Peninsula, was very hilly, and some of the
ridges rose, perhaps, from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet
above the level of the sea; one or two hills were still higher. They were
all composed of a clayey ironstone, and clothed with patches of scrub,
formed principally of Calythrix, and with a more open forest of Cypress
pine, white-gum, tea-trees, bloodwood, Livistona palms, Pandanus, with
shrubby Terminalias and Coniogetons. The grass was dry, but high and
dense; and buffalo tracks spread in every direction, particularly down
the creeks, both to the eastward and westward.
We followed a westerly creek in all its windings, in order to detect
water in one of its rocky water-holes. The rock was shaly, of a greyish
colour, like the clay shale of Newcastle above the layers of the coal,
but more indurated. Patches of vine brush grew along the banks, and their
verdure led me frequently to expect the presence of water. We met,
however, only with salt-water, where the mangroves commenced, and had
consequently to continue our journey. Here we again came on the foot-path
of the natives, which skirted the mangrove swamps, and I followed it for
about three miles farther, crossed several dry watercourses, and at last
found some pools of rain water, in a small creek. I was fortunate enough
to make my latitude by an observation of Regulus, 11 degrees 32 minutes
11 seconds.
Dec. 15.--I followed the foot-path of the natives, with the intention of
continuing on it, until I came in sight of Mounts Bedwell and Roe. If I
had done so, much trouble would have been saved. But, after we had
travelled more than three hours, the country became very hilly and ridgy,
and I supposed that we were close to those mountains, but were prevented,
by the ridges, from seeing them. We went consequently to the northward,
and after an hour's riding over a hilly, but openly timbered country,
came to an easterly creek, which we followed down, until we found an
abundance of water. The upper part of this creek was very scrubby, and
with but little grass. I imagined that we had arrived at the west side of
Port Essington, and that the creek on which we encamped was probably the
Warvi. To ascertain this, I rode down the creek with Charley: it became
more open; limited flats of sandy alluvium were clothed with the
refreshing verdure of young grass, and with groves of Banksias; its
hollows were fringed with large drooping tea-trees. The creek itself was
a succession of shady water-holes, out of which, at our approach dashed
buffaloes, three and four at a time, shaking their muddy heads, as they
scrambled up the steep banks, and galloped to the neighbouring thickets.
The stiff sedges of the salt-water, and the salt-water tea-trees, made
their appearance about three miles from our camp; and it is probable that
the sea was scarcely half a mile farther. High hills rose to the
northward, openly timbered, but at their base with patches of scrub, and
very stony. Here we heard the distant cooees of natives, which we
answered, going in their direction, until we came to a camp, in which we
found an old lame man, "Baki Baki," and a short sturdy fellow, "Rambo
Rambo;" both of whom knew a great number of English words, and were quite
familiar with the settlement, and knew the Commandant, Mr. Macarthur.
They promised the guide us the next morning to Balanda, after having made
many inquiries about our stock of provisions and of tobacco. I made my
latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes 18 seconds, by an observation of Regulus;
which, allowing a possible error of a few miles, confirmed me in my
belief, that we were at the head of the harbour; particularly as Baki
Baki had told me that he had come this very morning from the settlement.
Dec. 16.--When we arrived with our whole train at the camp of the
natives, their behaviour was quite altered, and they now showed as little
inclination to guide us to the settlement, as they had been eager last
night to do so. I persuaded Baki Baki, however, to go, at least part of
the way; and, when we saw that he became tired, we mounted him on one of
the horses, and led it by the bridle. He pointed to the W.N.W. as the
direction in which the settlement lay. We travelled about five miles over
stony ironstone ridges, with extensive groves of Livistona palm covering
their slopes. Here Baki Baki desired to dismount; and, telling us that it
was a very good road to Balanda, took his leave and returned. Soon after
we came to a large creek full of water, running to the eastward, which we
followed up for a long distance, before we were able to cross. Our
pack-horse became bogged, and as it was so weak that it would not even
make an effort to extricate itself, and as I supposed that we were near
the settlement, we took off its pack-saddle and load, and left it behind.
We crossed two or three more watercourses; and continued the course
pointed out by the native, until it became very late, and I found myself
compelled to look for water; particularly as our bullock showed evident
symptoms of becoming knocked up. I therefore followed the fall of the
country to the north-east; and, in a short time, came to the sea-side. We
compared our little map of the harbour of Port Essington with the
configuration of the bay before us, but nothing would agree exactly,
although it bore a general resemblance to Raffles Bay.
A narrow belt of brush covered the approaches to the water; but the
scarlet Eugenia grew on the sandy flats towards the hilly forest; where
we also found a new tree, a species of Anacardium, which the natives
called "Lugula;" it bore a red succulent fruit, formed by the enlargement
of the stalk, with a greyish one-seeded nut outside, like Exocarpus. The
fruit was extremely refreshing; the envelope, however, contained such an
acrid juice that it ate into and discoloured my skin, and raised blisters
wherever it touched it: these blisters were not only followed by a simple
excoriation, but by a deep and painful ulceration. In the forest, we met
with some few small Seaforthia palms, the young shoots of which we
obtained with great difficulty, not then knowing how easily the natives
strip them of the surrounding leaves and leafstalks. I followed a a well
beaten foot-path of the natives to the northward, crossed a creek, in the
mangrove swamp of which another horse was bogged, which we extricated
after great exertion; and, after two or three miles, came to a large
fresh-water swamp (Marair) on which we encamped. The sun had long set,
and our cattle, as well as ourselves, were miserably tired. We were here
visited by a tribe of natives, who were well acquainted with the
settlement; they were all friendly, and willing to assist us; and many of
them spoke very tolerable English. One of them, apparently the chief of
the tribe, though a hunchback, named "Bill White," promised to guide us
to the settlement. He gave us to understand that we had come too far to
the northward, and that we had to go to the south-west, in order to head
Port Essington, and to follow its west coast, in order to arrive at
Victoria. We were, in fact, at Raffles Bay. The natives knew every body
in Victoria, and did not cease to give us all the news; to which we most
willingly listened. They fetched water for us from a great distance, and
gave us some Murnatt, which was extremely welcome. Perceiving the state
of exhaustion and depression in which we were, they tried to cheer us
with their corrobori songs, which they accompanied on the Eboro, a long
tube of bamboo, by means of which they variously modulated their voices.
I may mention that we experienced a heavy thunder-storm during the
afternoon.
Dec. 17.--We started, with a willing guide, for the goal of our journey,
and travelled to the south-west over a hilly country, covered with groves
of the Livistona palm, which, as we proceeded became mixed with
Seaforthia (the real cabbage-palm). A fine large creek, containing a
chain of large water-holes went to the north-east, and disembogued
probably into Bremer's Bay. We followed it for three or four miles
towards its head; and, when crossing it, we had a very heavy
thunder-storm; at the earliest hour we had ever witnessed one. The
Seaforthia palm because very abundant, and at last the forest was formed
entirely of it, with trees of every size. Our guide showed us how we
could easily obtain the young shoots, by splitting the leaves and
leafstalks; and we enjoyed a fine meal of the cabbage. Our bullock
refused to go any farther, and, as I then knew that the settlement was
not very distant, I unloaded him, and covered his packsaddle and load
with tarpaulings, and left him to recruit for a few days; when I intended
to send for him. As we approached the harbour, the cabbage palm became
rarer, and entirely disappeared at the head of it. We crossed several
creeks running into the harbour, until we arrived at the Matunna, a dry
creek, at which the foot-path from Pitchenelumbo (Van Diomen's Gulf)
touched the harbour, and on which we should have come last night. We
followed it now, crossed the Warvi, the Wainunmema, and the Vollir--all
which enlarged into shallow lagoons or swamps, before they were lost
between the mangrove thickets. At the banks of the Vollir, some constant
springs exist, which induced Sir Gordon Bremer to choose that place for a
settlement, and on which Victoria at present stands. All these creeks
were separated from each other by a hilly forest land; but small fertile
flats of sandy alluvium, clothed with young grass, and bordered by
Banksias, extended along their banks. The forest was principally composed
of stringy-bark, the leguminous Ironbark, Melaleuca-gum, with underwood
of Acacias, Coniogeton, Pachynemas, Pultenaeas? and Careya? A tree very
much resembling the real Ironbark (Eucalyptus resinifera) was observed at
the Warvi; but I expect it will be found entirely different. The
stringy-bark and the drooping tea-tree were the only useful timber near
the settlement. The Cypress-pine (Callitris) could, however, be obtained
without any great difficulty from Mount Morris Bay, or Van Diemen's Gulf.
On the Vollir, we came on a cart road which wound round the foot of a
high hill; and, having passed the garden, with its fine Cocoa-nut palms,
the white houses, and a row of snug thatched cottages burst suddenly upon
us; the house of the Commandant being to the right and separate from the
rest. We were most kindly received by Captain Macarthur, the Commandant
of Port Essington, and by the other officers, who, with the greatest
kindness and attention, supplied us with every thing we wanted. I was
deeply affected in finding myself again in civilized society, and could
scarcely speak, the words growing big with tears and emotion; and, even
now, when considering with what small means the Almighty had enabled me
to perform such a long journey, my heart thrills in grateful
acknowledgement of his infinite kindness.
After a month's stay at Port Essington, the schooner Heroine, Captain
Mackenzie, arrived from Bally, on her voyage to Sydney, via Torres Strait
and the Inner Barrier, a route only once before attempted with success.
We embarked in this vessel, and arrived safely in Sydney, on the 29th of
March. To the generous attentions of Captain Mackenzie our party owe
much; and, at his hospitable table, we soon forgot the privations of our
late journey. At Sydney, a reception awaited us, the warmth and kindness
of which, it is out of my power to describe. All classes pressed forward
to testify their joy at our reappearance, which, we found, had been long
despaired of, and to offer their aid in supplying our wants. A public
subscription was set on foot, which, in a very few weeks, by the liberal
contributions which flowed in from all parts of the Colony, amounted to
upwards of Fifteen Hundred pounds; and in the Legislative Council, a
motion was brought forward, which, by the unanimous vote of that House,
and the ready concurrence of His Excellency, Sir George Gipps, the
Governor, devoted a Thousand Pounds out of the Public Revenue to our use.
In the Appendix to this volume, will be found the very handsome letter,
in which the Hon. Mr. E. Deas Thomson, the Colonial Secretary, conveyed
to me this resolution of the Government; and an account of the
proceedings taken at the School of Arts, on the 21st September, when His
Honor, The Speaker, Dr. C. Nicholson, presented me with that portion of
the public subscription, which the Committee of the Subscribers had
awarded. In laying these documents before the Public, I will leave it to
be supposed how vain would be any attempt of mine to express my gratitude
to that generous people to whom I have inscribed this humble narrative.
APPENDIX.
LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT.
Colonial Secretary's Office,
Sydney, 25th June, 1846.
Sir,--I do myself the honour to inform you that the Auditor General has
been requested to prepare a warrant for the payment, out of the Crown
Revenue, of a gratuity of 1000 pounds to yourself and party which
accompanied you in your recent expedition to Port Essington; in
consideration of the successful issue of that very perilous enterprise;
the fortitude and perseverance displayed by the persons engaged in it;
and the advantages derived from it to the Colony; and I beg to add, that
it is with much gratification that I make this communication to you.
The money is to be divided in the manner stated below, which the Governor
has considered reasonable, after weighing all the circumstances of the
case, and advising with the gentleman who waited on His Excellency on
Friday the 11th instant, and who formed a deputation from the Committee,
who have superintended the collection and distribution of the money (1400
pounds.) raised in Sydney by voluntary subscription, in testimony of the
services rendered to the Colony by you and your companions, viz.
Dr. Leichhardt 600 pounds
Mr. Calvert 125
Mr. Roper 125
John Murphy 70
W. Phillips, who has already received
from the Government a pardon 30
The two aboriginal natives,
Charles Fisher and Harry Brown 50
----
1000
The 50 pounds for the two Blacks will be lodged in the Savings' Bank, and
will not be drawn out without the approval of the Vice President of that
Institution. I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
(Signed) E. DEAS THOMSON,
COLONIAL SECRETARY.
* * * * *
THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL.
[Extract from the Sydney Herald, Sept. 22, 1846.]
Yesterday afternoon, a meeting of the subscribers to the Leichhardt
Testimonial was held in the School of Arts.
At half-past three o'clock the Honourable the Speaker of the Legislative
Council entered the room with Dr. Leichhardt, who was received with loud
applause.
As soon as silence was restored, the Speaker rose and addressed Dr.
Leichhardt. He said, The duty has been assigned to me of presenting to
you, on behalf of a numerous body of colonists, an acknowledgment of the
grateful sense they entertain of the services rendered by you to the
cause of science and to the interests of this colony. Whilst I fully
participate in the admiration with which your merits are universally
acknowledged, I confess that I shrink from the task now imposed upon me,
from a sense of my inability to do justice to it in language commensurate
with the occasion. For indeed it would be difficult to employ any terms
that might be considered as exaggerated, in acknowledging the enthusiasm,
the perseverance, and the talent which prompted you to undertake, and
enabled you successfully to prosecute, your late perilous journey through
a portion of the hitherto untrodden wilds of Australia. An enthusiasm
undaunted by every discouragement, a perseverance unextinguished by
trials and hardships which ordinary minds would have despaired of
surmounting, a talent which guided and led you on to the full and final
achievement of your first and original design.
It is needless for me to recall to the recollection of those around me,
the circumstances under which the project of undertaking an overland
journey to Port Essington was formed. The smallness of your party, and
the scantiness of its equipment, the length and unknown character of the
country proposed to be traversed, induced many to regard the scheme as
one characterised by rashness, and the means employed as wholly
inadequate towards carrying out the object in view. Many withheld their
support from a dread lest they might be held as chargeable with that
result which their sinister forebodings told them was all but inevitable
with a small but adventurous band. You nevertheless plunged into the
unknown regions that lay before you. After the lapse of a few months
without any tidings of your progress or fate, the notion became generally
entertained that your party had fallen victims to some one of the many
dangers it had been your lot to encounter; that you had perished by the
hands of the hostile natives of the interior; that want of water or
exposure to tropical climate were even but a few of the many evils to
which you had rendered yourself liable, and to the influence of some one
or more of which it was but too probable you had fallen a prey. Two
parties successively went out with the hope of overtaking you, or at
least of ascertaining some particulars of your fate. The result of these
efforts was, however, fruitless, and but few were so sanguine as to
believe in the possibility of you or your comrades being still in
existence. I need not recall to the recollection of those here present,
the surprise, the enthusiasm, and the delight, with which your sudden
appearance in Sydney was hailed, about six months ago. The surprise was
about equal to what might be felt at seeing one who had risen from the
tomb; a surprise, however, that was equalled by the warm and cordial
welcome with which you were embraced by every colonist; and when we
listened to the narrative of your long and dreary journey--the hardships
you had endured, the dangers you had braved, the difficulties you had
surmounted--the feeling with which your return amongst us was greeted,
became one of universal enthusiasm. For it would indeed be difficult to
point out, in the career of any traveller, the accomplishment of an
equally arduous undertaking, or one pregnant with more important results,
whether we contemplate them in a scientific, an economical, or a political
point of view. The traversing, for the first time by civilised man, of so
large a portion of the surface of this island, could not fail to be
attended with many discoveries deeply interesting to the scientific
inquirer, in botany, geology, and zoology. Your contributions to each of
these departments of knowledge have consequently been equally novel and
valuable. In a social and economical point of view, it is difficult, if
not impossible, to over-estimate the importance of the discovery recently
made of an all but boundless extent of fertile country, extending to the
north, soon to be covered with countless flocks and herds, and calculated
to become the abode of civilized man. In its political aspect, the
possession of an immense territory, now for the first time discovered to
be replete with all those gifts of nature which are necessary for the
establishment and growth of a civilized community, cannot be regarded as
a fact of small importance; nor the possession of a continuous tract of
fine and fertile land, that connects us with the shores of the Indian
ocean, and which would appear to render the Australian continent a mere
extension of the Anglo-Indian empire as a matter of indifference. It
would be almost impossible to exaggerate the importance of these
considerations; I shall, however, abstain from occupying your time by
dwelling upon what must be so obvious to all. The Colonists of New South
Wales, Dr. Leichhardt, have been anxious to evince their gratitude to you
for all that you have done in behalf of this their adopted country. As
soon as your return was announced, subscriptions were entered into for
the purpose of presenting to you a suitable testimonial. To the fund
raised for this purpose persons of all classes, and from every quarter of
the colony, have contributed. The sum that has been raised amounts to
1518 pounds 18 shillings 6 pence. The Executive, with a laudable
emulation, have presented you a sum of 1000 pounds from the Crown
revenue. Gratifying as this demonstration must doubtlessly prove to your
feelings, it is unquestionably beneath your deserts; and the substantial
reward due to your past exertions will be found in the undying glory of
having your name enrolled amongst those of the great men whose genius and
enterprise have impelled them to seek for fame in the prosecution of
geographical science--with those of Niebuhr, Burckhardt, Park,
Clapperton, Lander, and, in Australian geography, with those of Oxley,
Cunningham, Sturt, Eyre, and Mitchell. In these days of universal
knowledge, when there are so many competitors for distinction in every
department of science, few attain the desired goal of scientific
eminence. Perhaps no one has so fair a chance of giving immortality to
his name as he who has first planted his foot where civilized man had
never before trodden. The first chapter in the history of Australia, some
thousand years hence, will present a narration of those adventurous
spirits--of the exploits of those who may fairly be considered its first
conquerors, and by whose peaceful triumphs an empire had been added to
the parent state. I cannot close this brief address without indulging in
an aspiration for the safety and success of one now engaged in an
enterprise similar to that from which you hate earned so much honour. I
allude to Sir T. Mitchell. To enter upon any eulogium of the character or
abilities of that distinguished officer on the present occasion,
is uncalled for; the enterprise in which he is engaged must command
the sympathy of every person here present, and I am sure of no one
more than of yourself. In enterprises such as those in which both
he and yourself are engaged, it may fairly be said the harvest is
plentiful, the labourers are few--a kindred taste and zeal in the
pursuit of a common object can be attended with no other than a
worthy and generous emulation. It only remains for me to add one
word to what I have already said--you have disclosed your intention
of starting within a few weeks from the present time on another
exploratory expedition. From your past career we may all safely indulge
in sanguine anticipations as to your future success. That Providence may
guide you in your wanderings and crown your future labours with new
laurels is the ardent wish of all on whose behalf I now address you. Let
me, however, beg that you will guard, against any unnecessary exposure to
risk, that life in the preservation of which we all feel so deep a
concern. With the assurance of the gratitude, esteem, and admiration of
my brother colonists, permit me now to present you with 854 pounds, being
the proportion of the public subscription awarded to you.
Dr. LEICHHARDT (who was evidently deeply affected) said: Mr. Chairman and
Gentlemen, I thank you for the munificent gift with which you have
honoured me--I thank you for the congratulations for the past--for your
kind wishes for my approaching expedition. [Note. 1] I feel the more the
weight of your generous liberality, as I am conscious how much your
kindness has overvalued my deserts; but I shall try to render myself
worthy of it; and I hope that the Almighty, who has so mercifully taken
care of me on my former expedition, will grant me skill and strength to
continue my explorations, and will render them equally successful and
beneficial to this colony. May his blessings attend the generous people
who have shown, by the honours they have done me, how great an interest
they take in the advancement of discovery.
Mr. C. COWPER then moved a vote of thanks to the Committee and their
Secretary, which was acknowledged by Mr. R. GRAHAM, when the business of
the meeting closed.
Those who appreciate the value of Dr. Leichhardt's scientific exploration
of the country from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, and who feel any
interest in his record of the difficulties of his enterprise, will be
glad to learn that the Royal Geographical Society of London has recently
awarded him the Queen's Gold Medal, in acknowledgment of his services;
and that the Royal Geographical Society of Paris has likewise adjudged
him its Gold Medal of this year.
[Note 1. The object of the new Expedition here alluded to, Is to explore
the Interior of Australia, to discover the extent of Sturt's Desert and
the character of the Western and North-Western Coast, and to observe the
gradual change in vegetation and animal life from one side of the
Continent to the other.
Dr. Leichhardt does not expect to be able to accomplish this overland
journey to Swan River, in less than two years and a half. According to a
letter written by him on the eve of his departure (Dec. 6, 1846); his
party consisted of six whites, and two blacks; he had purchased thirteen
mules, twelve horses, and two hundred and seventy goats; and bad received
forty oxen, three mules, and two horses, as presents. He then purposed to
travel over his old route, as far as Peak Range, and then to shape his
course westwards; but thought it not impossible, as his course depends on
water, that be should be obliged to reach the Gulf of Carpentaria, and
then to follow up some river to its source.--Ed.]
The End