INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA--NATIVES MUCH MORE
NUMEROUS--THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA--THE STAATEN--A NATIVE
INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP--THE VAN DIEMEN--THE GILBERT--SINGULAR NATIVE
HUTS--CARON RIVER--FRIENDLY NATIVES--THE YAPPAR--MR. CALVERT
RECOVERED--MODE OF ENCAMPMENT--SWARMS OF FLIES--ABUNDANCE OF
SALT--NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.
July 1.--We left the camp where Mr. Gilbert was killed, and travelled in
all about fourteen miles south-west, to lat. 16 degrees 6 minutes. We
passed an extensive box-tree flat, and, at four miles, reached a chain of
water-holes; but, during the next ten miles, we did not meet the
slightest indication of water. Box-tree flats of various sizes were
separated by long tracts of undulating country, covered with broad-leaved
tea-trees, Grevillea ceratophylla, and G. mimosoides, and with the new
species of Grevillea, with broad lanceolate leaves. We had to skirt
several impassable thickets and scrubs of tea-tree, in one of which
Pandanus abounded. At last, just as the sun was setting, and we were
preparing to encamp in the open forest without water, we came to a creek
with fine water-holes covered with Villarsias. Charley shot a native
companion; a Fabirou was seen crossing our camp. My wounded companions
got on uncommonly well, notwithstanding the long stage, and I now had all
reason to hope, that their wounds would not form any impediment to the
progress of our journey.
July 2.--We travelled ten miles south-west over a country exactly like
that of yesterday; and encamped at a shallow water-hole in a creek, which
headed in a tea-tree thicket, a grove of Pandanus being on its north
side, and a small box-flat to the southward. Though the country was then
very dry, it is very probably impassable during the rainy season. The
tea-tree thickets seemed liable to a general inundation, and many shallow
water-holes and melon-holes were scattered everywhere about the flats.
The flats and elevations of the surface were studded with turreted
ant-hills, either forming single sharp cones from three to five feet
high, and scarcely a foot broad at their base, or united into a row, or
several rows touching each other, and forming piles of most remarkable
appearance. The directions of the rows seemed to be the same over large
tracts of country, and to depend upon the direction of the prevailing
winds. I found Verticordia, a good sized tree, and a Melaleuca with
clustered orange blossoms and smooth bark, which I mentioned as growing
on the supposed Nassau.
July 3.--We followed the tea-tree creek about four miles lower down, and
encamped near some fine rocky water-holes, in which I discovered a yellow
Villarsia, resembling in its leaves Villarsia inundata, R. Br.
Our day's journey was a short one in consequence of our having started so
late. The delay was caused by Charley having captured an emu, a flock of
which he met when fetching the horses. By holding branches before him, he
was enabled to approach so close to them, that he shot one dead with a
charge of dust shot. It was a welcome prize, and repaid us for the delay.
To our wounded friends the delay itself was a welcome one.
The mussel-shells of these water-holes appeared to be narrower and
comparatively longer than those we had previously seen. Pandanus was, as
usual, very frequent; but a middle sized shady wide spreading tree,
resembling the elm in the colour and form of its leaves, attracted our
attention, and excited much interest. Its younger branches were rather
drooping, its fruit was an oblong yellow plum, an inch long and half an
inch in diameter, with a rather rough kernel. When ripe, the pericarp is
very mealy and agreeable to eat, and would be wholesome, if it were not
so extraordinarily astringent. We called this tree the "Nonda," from its
resemblance to a tree so called by the natives in the Moreton Bay
district. I found the fruit in the dilli of the natives on the 21st June,
and afterwards most abundantly in the stomach of the emu. The tree was
very common in the belt of forest along the creek.
The wind, during the last two days, was southerly, south-westerly, and
westerly, freshening up during the afternoon. The forenoon was very hot:
the night clear, and rather cool towards morning. I observed many
shooting stars during the two last nights.
July 4.--We travelled seven miles in a south-west direction, to lat. 16
degrees 15 minutes 11 seconds, over an entirely flat country, covered
with a very open forest of box, of bloodwood, and of the stiff-leaved
Melaleuca, with the arborescent Grevillea already mentioned, and with a
species of Terminalia with winged fruit. In the more sandy tracts of
bloodwood forest, grew the Nonda, the Pandanus, and the apple-gum. The
shallow creek was surrounded by a scrub of various myrtaceous trees,
particularly Melaleucas. The creek afterwards divided into water-holes,
fringed with Stravadium, which, however, lower down gave way to dense
belts of Polygonum. The water was evidently slightly brackish; the first
actual sign of the vicinity of the sea. A young emu was killed with the
assistance of Spring; and a sheldrake was shot by Brown. Native
companions were very numerous, and were heard after sunset, all round our
camp. The stomach of the emu was full of a small plant resembling
chickweed, which grew round the water-holes.
The smoke of the natives' fires was seen to the south and south-west.
July 5.--We travelled over full twenty miles of country, although the
distance from camp to camp, in a straight line, did not exceed fourteen,
in a south by west direction; the latitude of our new camp was 16 degrees
27 minutes 26 seconds. After passing several miles of tea-tree forest,
intermixed with box, and alternating with belts of grassy forest land,
with bloodwood and Nonda, we entered upon a series of plains increasing
in size, and extending to the westward as far as the eye could reach, and
separated from each other by narrow strips of forest; they were
well-grassed, but the grasses were stiff. Tea-tree hollows extended along
the outskirts of the plains. In one of them, we saw Salicornia for the
first time, which led us to believe that the salt water was close at
hand. Having crossed the plains, we came to broad sheets of sand,
overgrown with low shrubby tea-trees, and a species of Hakea, which
always grows in the vicinity of salt water. The sands were encrusted with
salt, and here and there strewed with heaps of Cytherea shells. Beyond
the sands, we saw a dense green line of mangrove trees extending along a
salt water creek, which we headed, and in which Brown speared the first
salt water mullet. We then came to a fine salt water river, whose banks
were covered with an open well grassed forest; interrupted only by flat
scrubby sandy creeks, into which the tide entered through narrow
channels, and which are probably entirely inundated by the spring tides.
Not finding any fresh water along the river I went up one of the creeks,
and found fresh water-holes, not in its bed, but parallel to it, scarcely
a mile from the river. When crossing the plains, the whole horizon
appeared to be studded with smoke from the various fires of the natives;
and when we approached the river, we noticed many well beaten footpaths
of the natives, who are found generally in greater numbers and stronger
tribes near the sea coast, where the supply of food is always more
abundant and certain.
The first sight of the salt water of the gulf was hailed by all with
feelings of indescribable pleasure, and by none more than by myself;
although tinctured with regret at not having succeeded in bringing my
whole party to the end of what I was sanguine enough to think the most
difficult part of my journey. We had now discovered a line of
communication by land between the eastern coast of Australia, and the
gulf of Carpentaria: we had travelled along never failing, and, for the
greater part, running waters: and over an excellent country, available,
almost in its whole extent, for pastoral purposes. The length of time we
had been in the wilderness, had evidently made the greater portion of my
companions distrustful of my abilities to lead them through the journey;
and, in their melancholy conversations, the desponding expression, "We
shall never come to Port Essington," was too often overheard by me to be
pleasant. My readers will, therefore, readily understand why Brown's
joyous exclamation of "Salt Water!" was received by a loud hurrah from
the whole party; and why all the pains, and fatigues, and privations we
had endured, were, for the moment, forgotten, almost as completely as if
we had arrived at the end of the journey.
July 6.--remained in camp the whole of this day, to rest the poor
animals, which had been much fatigued by our last long stage. Charley
shot a duck (Malacorhynchus membranaceus); and he, Brown, and John
Murphy, went to the salt water to angle. My expectations, however, of
catching fish in the salt water, and of drying them, were sadly
disappointed. The whole amount of their day's work was, a small Silurus,
one mullet, and some small guard-fish.
The weather continued fine, the forenoon usually very hot, but the air
was cooled in the afternoon by a south-west breeze; the nights were clear
and rather cold.
When I left Moreton Bay, I had taken a spare set of horse-shoes with me
for every horse. They were shod at our leaving the Downs, but they soon
lost their shoes; and, as our stages were short, and the ground soft, I
did not think it necessary to shoe them again. In travelling along the
Burdekin, however, and the upper Lynd, they became very foot-sore; but
still there was a sufficient change of good country to allow them to
recover; I had been frequently inclined to throw the spare shoes away,
but they had as often been retained, under the impression that they might
be useful, when we came to the gulf, to barter with the natives for food,
particularly for fish. Finding, however, that the natives were hostile,
and scarcely wishing to have any farther intercourse with them, I decided
upon leaving the horse-shoes, and several other cumbersome articles
behind; and they were consequently thrown, with two spare gun barrels,
into the water-hole at which we were encamped. The natives will probably
find them, when the holes dry up; and, if preserved, they will be a
lasting testimonial of our visit.
July 7.--Charley told me that he had followed the river up to its
termination. I consequently kept a little more to the left, in order to
head it, and travelled two or three miles through a fine bloodwood and
Nonda forest, the verdant appearance of which was much increased by the
leguminous Ironbark, which grew here in great perfection. Two emus had
just made their breakfast on some Nonda fruit when we started them, and
Charley and Brown, assisted by Spring, succeeded in killing one of them.
We soon came to a salt-water river, with a broad sandy bed, perfectly
free of vegetation, although its banks were fringed with drooping
tea-trees. The tide being low, we were enabled to ford it. Whilst
crossing it, a flock of black-winged pelicans stood gravely looking at
us. The latitude of the ford, which was two miles and a half south from
our last camp, would be 16 degrees 30 minutes, which corresponds with
that of the Staaten, marked at the outline of the coast. A well grassed
open forest extended along both sides of the river; and, at its left,
large deep Nymphaea lagoons were parallel to it. South of the Staaten, we
travelled over a forest country, similar to that of former stages, and
which might be aptly distinguished by the name of Grevillea Forest; as
Gr. mimosoides (R. Br.) is its characteristic feature; though a rather
stunted stiff-leaved tea-tree was more numerous. Some slight rises were
covered with thickets of the Acacia of Expedition Range. The last six or
seven miles of our stage were over an immense box-flat. We passed many
spots lately burnt by the natives, and saw the smoke of their fires in
every direction. We encamped on a good sized creek, on which grew the
articulate podded Acacia, the Mangrove Myrtle (Stravadium), and the
drooping tea-tree. As soon as we had pitched our tents, we cut up the
hind quarters of the emu into slices for drying; but we had to guard it
by turns, whip in hand, from a host of square-tailed kites (Milvus
isiurus).
John Murphy and Charley, whilst riding round the camp to ascertain if
natives were in the neighbourhood, came on one of their camps occupied
chiefly by women, and a few old men, who immediately ran off, but set the
grass on fire as they went, to prevent the approach of the horsemen; and
left behind them their waddies, spears, and a good supply of potatoes. At
dusk, when Charley brought in the horses, two of which we tethered near
the camp, the form of a native glided like a ghost into our camp, and
walked directly up to the fire. John, who saw him first, called out, "a
Blackfellow! look there! a Blackfellow!" and every gun was ready. But the
stranger was unarmed, and evidently unconscious of his position; for,
when he saw himself suddenly surrounded by the horses and ourselves, he
nimbly climbed a tree to its very summit, where he stood between some dry
branches like a strange phantom or a statue. We called to him, and made
signs for him to descend, but he not only remained silent, but
motionless, notwithstanding all the signs and noise we made. We then
discharged a gun, but it had not the intended effect of inducing him to
speak or stir. At last I desired Charley to ascend the neighbouring tree,
to show him that we could easily get at him if necessary. This plan was
more successful; for no sooner were Charley's intentions perceived, than
our friend gave the most evident proof of his being neither deaf nor
dumb, by calling out most lustily. He pooh'd, he birrrred, he spat, and
cooeed; in fact, he did everything to make the silent forest re-echo with
the wild sounds of his alarm; our horses, which were standing under the
tree, became frightened, and those which were loose ran away. We were
much afraid that his cooees would bring the whole tribe to his
assistance, and every one eagerly proffered his advice. Charley wished to
shoot him, "or," said he, "you will all be killed; I do not care for
myself, but I care for your being killed and buried." Others wished to
remove from the spot, and so give him an opportunity of escaping. I was,
of course, horrified at the idea of shooting a poor fellow, whose only
crime, if so it might be called, was in having mistaken our fire for that
of his own tribe: so I went to our own fire, which was at a short
distance, where he could see me distinctly, and then made signs for him
to descend and go away. He then began to be a little more quiet, and to
talk; but soon hallooed again, and threw sticks at myself, at my
companions, and at the horses. We now retired about eight yards, to allow
him to escape, which we had not done before, because I feared he might
imagine we were afraid of his incantations, for he sang most lamentable
corrobories, and cried like a child; frequently exclaiming, "Mareka!
Mareka!!" This word is probably identical with Marega; the name given by
the Malays to the natives of the north coast, which is also called by
them "Marega." [Capt. King's Intertropical Survey of Australia,
vol. I. p. 135.] After continuing his lamentations for some time, but of
which we took no notice, they gradually ceased; and, in a few minutes, a
slight rustling noise was heard, and he was gone: doubtless delighted at
having escaped from the hands of the pale-faced anthropophagi.
July 8.--This morning the whole tribe, well armed, watched us from a
distance; but they allowed us quietly to load our bullocks, and depart,
without offering us the least annoyance. Their companion will, no doubt,
leave a dreadful account of the adventures of last night to his black
posterity.
We travelled about twelve miles south by west to latitude 16 degrees 47
minutes; at first over an almost uninterrupted box-flat, full of
melon-holes, and with many small holes in the ground, which caused our
horses and cattle to stumble at almost every step. The dry melon-holes
were covered with dead Paludinas, with shells of a large crab, and of the
fresh water turtle. At about seven miles, we passed a strip of Blackwood
forest, with many Nonda trees; and crossed a small creek. The latter part
of the stage was again over a large box-flat, intersected by shallow
grassy depressions, timbered with flooded-gum. We saw on the rising
ground some open scrub, with scattered Bauhinias and Cochlospermums. Our
encampment was at a creek on the south side of a slight rise, with
Bauhinia trees, and near good water-holes. The creek, like all the others
we had passed, flowed to the westward.
Near our camp we examined three holes, full six feet deep, and four feet
in diameter, communicating with each other at their bottom. They were
about three feet apart, and appeared to have been dug with sharp sticks.
I have not the slightest idea for what purpose they were intended. They
were most certainly not dug to obtain roots; and it seemed unlikely for
wells; for the water, even in this unusually dry season, was very
abundant.
The white ant-hills, which are built in rows, had, during this stage, a
direction from north by west to south by east, and, as I have before
mentioned a conjecture that the little builders would expose the
narrowest side of their habitation to the weather side, the prevailing
winds would be from the north.
July 9.--We travelled thirteen or fourteen miles south by west to
latitude 17 degrees 0 minutes 13 seconds, at first crossing a box-flat,
and after that a succession of greater or smaller plains, separated by a
very open Grevillea forest. These plains were well grassed, or partly
covered with a species of Euphorbia, which was eaten by our horses and
cattle; and also with the long trailings of the native melon; the fruit
of which tastes very tolerably, after the bitter skin has been removed;
but when too ripe, the fruit is either insipid or nauseous. The bustard
seems to feed almost exclusively on them, for the stomach of one, which
Brown shot, was full of them.
The apple-gum, which we had missed for some time, again made its
appearance, accompanied by another white gum, with long narrow leaves. As
we approached the creek, at which we afterwards encamped, the vegetation
became richer, and the melon-holes enlarged into dry water-holes, which
were frequently shaded by the Acacia with articulate pods (Inga
moniliformis). The two species of Terminalia, of the upper Lynd, were
numerous; and a small green looking tree, which we found growing densely
along the creek, had wood of a brown colour, which smelt like raspberry
jam; and, upon burning it, the ashes produced a very strong lye, which I
used in dressing the wounds of my companions. This tree was found in
great abundance on all the rivers and creeks round the gulf, within the
reach of salt water; and when crossing Arnheim Land, though less
frequently.
Sandstone cropped out in the banks of the creek, and formed the
reservoirs in its bed.
Last night, and the night before, we experienced a very cold wind from
the southward.
The laughing Jackass (Dacelo cervina, GOULD) of this part of the country,
is of a different species from that of the eastern coast, is of a smaller
size, and speaks a different language; but the noise is by no means so
ridiculous as that of Dac. gigantea: he is heard before sunrise, and
immediately after sunset, like his representative of the eastern coast.
The latter was observed as far as the upper Lynd, where the new one made
his appearance.
We crossed a bush fire, which had been lighted just before we came to the
creek, but we did not see the incendiaries. In the morning of the 10th
July, however, they had discovered our tracks, and followed them until
they came in sight of the camp; but retired as soon as they saw us: and
when they met Charley returning with the bullocks, they ran away. After
half-an-hour's travelling towards the south-west, we came to the Van
Diemen, which is marked in Arrowsmith's map in latitude 17 degrees. It
was about seventy or eighty yards broad, with steep banks and a fine
sandy bed, containing detached pools of water surrounded by Polygonum,
and extremely boggy. My horse stuck in the mud, and it was with great
difficulty that I extricated him.
As our meal bags were empty, and no sign of game appeared, I decided upon
selecting a good open camping place, for the purpose of killing our last
little steer. The country was a fine open grassy forest land, in which
the apple-gum prevailed, and with many swampy grassy lagoons covered with
white, blue, and pink Nymphaeas. The box tree grew in their immediate
neighbourhood.
In the bed of the Van Diemen we saw some well constructed huts of the
natives; they were made of branches arched over in the form of a
bird-cage, and thatched with grass and the bark of the drooping tea-tree.
The place where we encamped had been frequently used by the natives for
the same purpose. Our attention was particularly attracted by a large
heap of chaff, from which the natives appeared to have taken the seeds.
This grass was, however, very different from the panicum, of the seeds of
which the natives of the Gwyder River make a sort of bread; and which
there forms the principal food of the little Betshiregah (Melopsittacus
undulatus, GOULD).
The night was calm, clear, and cold.
The kites became most daring and impudent. Yesterday, I cleaned the fat
gizzard of a bustard to grill it on the embers, and the idea of the fat
dainty bit made my mouth water. But alas! whilst holding it in my hand, a
kite pounced down and carried it off, pursued by a dozen of his comrades,
eager to seize the booty.
We killed our little steer in the afternoon of the 10th, and the next day
we cut the meat into slices, and hung it out on a kangaroo net: the wind
was high, the sun warm, and our meat dried most perfectly. Whilst we were
in the midst of our work, some natives made their appearance. I held out
a branch as a sign of peace, when they ventured up to hold a parley,
though evidently with great suspicion. They were rather small, and the
tall ones were slim and lightly built. They examined Brown's hat, and
expressed a great desire to keep it. In order to make them a present, I
went to the tents to fetch some broken pieces of iron; and whilst I was
away, Brown, wishing to surprise them, mounted his horse, and commenced
trotting, which frightened them so much, that they ran away, and did not
come again. One of them had a singular weapon, neatly made, and
consisting of a long wooden handle, with a sharp piece of iron fixed in
at the end, like a lancet. The iron most probably had been obtained from
the Malays who annually visit the gulf for trepang. Some of their spears
were barbed.
July 12.--The meat had dried so well, that I started this morning; having
completed the operation of drying in rather more than a day. It was, of
course, necessary to spread the meat out for several days, to prevent its
becoming mildewed. This was done every day after arriving at our
camping-place.
Our killing camp was about five miles south-west from the Van Diemen; and
we travelled in the same direction about eight miles farther, through a
most beautiful country, consisting of an open forest timbered with the
box-tree, apple-gum, and white-gum; it was well grassed, and abundantly
supplied with water. We crossed a small river with a course west by
north; it had a broad sandy bed, numerous pools of water, and steep
banks: the latter were covered with Sarcocephalus and drooping tea-trees.
I called it the "Gilbert," after my unfortunate companion. Five miles
farther, we came to a fine creek, at which we encamped. Its water-holes
were surrounded by the Nelumbiums of the Mackenzie, and by a fine yellow
Ipomoea, with larger flowers than that described as growing at the
Mitchell. We gathered a considerable quantity of Nelumbium seeds, which
were very palatable, and, when roasted and pounded, made a most excellent
substitute for coffee.
July 13.--Our horses had enjoyed the green feed round the lagoons near
our killing camp, so much, that they returned to it during the night, and
caused a delay until noon, when we resumed our journey. The first part of
the stage was over fine well-watered forest land. We crossed two creeks,
with good water-holes, in one of which was a fishing weir. The country to
the south of the last creek changed to a succession of plains of various
sizes, extending mostly to the westward, and very open undulations
scattered over with rather stunted trees of Grevillea mimosoides, G.
ceratophylla, Terminalia, Bauhinia, and Balfouria? an apocynaceous tree.
And again we passed over box and apple-gum flats, which, by their rich
verdure, refreshed the eye tired with the uniform yellow colour of the
dry grass, in which the whole country was clothed. We saw the bush fires
of the natives every where around us; and many large tracts which had
been recently burnt. The sun was getting very low, and my patients were
very tired, and yet no water was to be seen. Cumuli, which had been
gradually collecting from one o'clock in the afternoon, cast their
shadows over the forest, and deceived the eye into the belief that the
desired creek was before us. At last, however, to our infinite
satisfaction, we entered into a scrub, formed of low stunted irregularly
branched tea-trees, where we found a shallow water-course, which
gradually enlarged into deep holes, which were dry, with the exception of
one which contained just a sufficient supply of muddy water to form a
stepping-stone for the next stage. Our latitude was 17 degrees 19 minutes
36 seconds.
July 14.--We travelled about eleven miles S.S.W. to latitude 17 degrees
28 minutes 11 seconds, over an immense box-flat, interrupted only by some
plains and by two tea-tree creeks; the tea-trees were stunted and scrubby
like those of our last stage. At the second creek we passed an old
camping place of the natives, where we observed a hedge of dry branches,
and, parallel to it, and probably to the leeward, was a row of fire
places. It seemed that the natives sat and lay between the fires and the
row of branches. There were, besides, three huts of the form of a
bee-hive, closely thatched with straw and tea-tree bark. Their only
opening was so small, that a man could scarcely creep through it; they
were four or five feet high, and from eight to ten feet in diameter.
[A hut of this description, but of smaller dimensions, is described by
Capt. King, at the North Goulburn Island.--King's Voyage, vol. I. p. 72.]
One of the huts was storied, like those I noticed on the banks of the
Lynd. It would appear that the natives make use of these tents during the
wet and cold season, but encamp in the open air in fine weather.
A brown wallabi and a bustard were shot, which enabled us to save some of
our meat. We encamped at a fine long water-hole, in the bed of a scrubby
creek.
July 15.--Mr. Roper's illness increased so much that he could not even
move his legs, and we were obliged to carry him from one place to
another; I therefore, stopt here two days, to allow him to recover a
little.
July 17.--We travelled about ten miles south 55 degrees west over an
almost uninterrupted box and Melaleuca flat, free from melon-holes and
grassy swamps, but full of holes, into which our horses and bullocks sank
at every step, which sadly incommoded our wounded companions.
About two miles and a half from our camp, we came to the Caron River
(Corners Inlet), which deserved rather the name of a large creek. Its
sandy and occasionally rocky bed, was dry; but parallel lines of Nymphaea
lagoons extended on both sides. The drooping tea-tree was, as usual, very
beautiful. We skirted a tea-tree scrub, without a watercourse, about two
miles and a half south of the "Caron," and passed some undulations, with
Grevillea forest. To the south-west of these undulations, we came to a
chain of lagoons; from which several white cranes and a flight of the
black Ibis rose. Brown shot one of the latter, which, when picked and
cleaned for cooking, weighed three pounds and a half; it was very fat,
and proved to be excellent eating. Cytherea shells were again found,
which showed that the salt water was not very far off.
Charley gave a characteristic description of this country, when he
returned from a ride in search of game: "It is a miserable country!
nothing to shoot at, nothing to look at, but box trees and anthills." The
box-forest was, however, very open and the grass was good; and the
squatter would probably form a very different opinion of its merits. When
we were preparing to start in the morning some natives came to look at
us; but they kept within the scrub, and at a respectable distance.
July 18.--We travelled south-west by west, over a succession of plains,
and of undulating Grevillea forest, which changed into tea-tree thickets,
and stunted tea-tree scrubs, on a sandy soil with Salicornia, Binoe's
Trichinium, and several other salt plants. At about five miles from the
camp, we came to salt-water inlets, densely surrounded by mangroves, and
with sandy flats extending along their banks, encrusted with salt.
Charley rode through the dry mangrove scrub, and came on a sandy beach
with the broad Ocean before him. We had a long way to go to the east and
S.S.E. to get out of the reach of the brackish water, and came at last to
grassy swamps, with a good supply of fresh water. We encamped in lat. 17
degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds; about ten miles south by west from our
last camp. Charley was remarkably lucky to-day, in catching an emu, and
shooting six teals, a brown wallabi of the Mitchell, and a kangaroo with
a broad nail at the end of its tail. Brown also shot a sheldrake and a
Malacorhynchus membranaceus. During the time that we were travelling to
the southward, we had a north-east wind during the forenoon, which in the
afternoon veered round to the east and south. Such a change, in a
locality like ours, was very remarkable; because, in the neighbourhood of
the sea, it was natural to expect a sea breeze, instead of which,
however, the breeze was off the land. The cause can only be attributed to
a peculiar formation of the country south and south-east of the gulf.
July 19.--We travelled seven miles and a half due south, through a
succession of stunted tea-tree thickets and tea-tree forests, in which
the little bread-tree of the Lynd was common. We passed two creeks with
rocky beds, the one with salt water, and the other fresh. The natives had
been digging here, either for shells or roots. We came to a fine river
with salt water about two hundred and fifty or three hundred yards broad,
with low banks fringed with stunted mangroves. The well beaten foot-path
and the numerous fire-places of the natives, proved how populous the
country must be. In following a foot-path, we came to some large lagoons,
but containing very little water; the natives had been digging in the dry
parts, perhaps for the roots of Nymphaea. We encamped at one of them in
lat. 17 degrees 49 minutes.
The country along the river was an open box-forest. Natives cooeed around
us; and we saw a man and his gin, and farther on two others busily
occupied in burning the grass. When Charley came to the lagoon he saw a
black boy, who immediately retreated out of sight. Two straw-necked
Ibises and seven ducks were shot. Mr. Roper had suffered much by the long
rides of the last stages; but his health was improving, notwithstanding.
The Nonda tree had disappeared north of the Van Diemen, and the emu here
feeds on the fruit of the little Severn tree, which is so excessively
bitter, as to impart its quality to the meat, and even to the gizzard and
the very marrow.
As we approached the salt water, the various species of Eucalyptus, with
the exception of the box, disappeared, and various species of tea-tree
(Melaleuca) took their place; they grew even on the sands with
incrustations of salt, and gave way only to the mangroves, which were
bathed by the brine itself.
We now commenced collecting the gum of the broad-leaved Terminalia of the
upper Lynd, and boiled it for Mr. Roper, who liked it very much.
We recognised one of the kites (Milvus isiurus), which had followed us
from our last killing camp, down to the head of the gulf.
July 20.--This morning, the bullocks had strayed farther than usual, and,
whilst we were waiting for them, some natives came to the rocks opposite
our camp; and one of them beckoned me to come over to him. They had been
observing our camp last night, for some time after the rising of the
moon, and I had caused Brown to discharge his gun, in order to drive them
away. They did not, however, trouble us then any farther, but encamped at
a neighbouring lagoon; showing evidently that they expected no harm from
us. When the bold fellow invited me to come over to him, I hesitated at
first, as they might have disturbed us when loading our bullocks; but, as
the animals did not appear, I took my reconnoitring bag with some iron
nose rings, and made Brown follow me at some distance with the double
barrelled gun, and went over to them. After much hesitation, four of them
approached me. I made them presents, which gained their confidence, and
they began to examine and admire my dress, my watch, etc. It was singular
that the natives were always most struck with our hats. We made them
understand where we came from and whither we were going, and it seemed
that they understood us better than we could understand them. When the
bullocks arrived, we returned to our camp, accompanied by the natives,
who had lost all fear after the tokens of friendship they had received:
and when we started, they joined our train and guided us on their
foot-path (Yareka) along the salt water creek (Yappar.) They very much
admired our horses and bullocks, and particularly our kangaroo dog. They
expressed their admiration by a peculiar smacking or clacking with their
tongue or lips. The fine river changed very soon into a salt water creek,
coming from south by west. We passed some very beautiful rocky lagoons
under the abrupt terminations of low sandstone hills, which were openly
timbered at the top, but surrounded by thickets of the little Severn
tree. The box-tree grew on the flats which separated the ridges from the
creek, with the small bread-tree, the bloodwood and pandanus. As the
Mangrove disappeared, the drooping tea-tree took its place. Several rocky
bars crossed the "Yappar," which seemed to be the name by which the
natives called it; but only one was broad enough to allow us to cross
safely with our horses and bullocks. Here our black friends took their
leave of us; they seemed very desirous of showing us their whole country,
and of introducing us to their tribe, which was probably very numerous.
After crossing the creek in lat. 17 degrees 54 minutes or 55 minutes, and
longit. 140 degrees 45 minutes approx., we travelled due west, and came
at once into an undulating hilly country. The hills were composed of
iron-sandstone; their summits were generally very openly timbered with
apple-gum and a new white-barked tree; but their bases were covered with
thickets of the little Severn tree. The intervening flats bore either a
box-tree with a short trunk branching off immediately above the ground;
or a middle-sized tea-tree, with a lanceolate leaf, or thickets of
stunted tea-tree. We travelled full thirteen miles without water, or any
decided water-course. We passed several dry water-holes shaded by the
broad-leaved Terminalia; and saw many Acacias twenty-five and thirty feet
in height, with a slender trunk, and an elegant drooping foliage: it very
much resembled the Acacia of Expedition Range; but the drooping habit and
more distant leaflets of its bipinnate leaves, showed at once their
difference. We had travelled five hours and a half, and Mr. Roper rode up
to me several times, to complain of his inability to go any farther. I
encouraged him, however, and at sunset, we reached a creek, but it was
dry; and, although we travelled until dark along its winding course, and
saw many deep holes on its flats, and although fresh burnings showed that
the natives had been there, yet no water was to be found, and we were
obliged to encamp without it. We, therefore, hobbled and tethered all the
horses, and watched the bullocks. Charley followed the creek for some
distance in search of water, but returned without finding any.
July 21.--When Charley was riding after our hobbled horses, he came, at
about two miles N. E., from our camp, to another watercourse, with well
filled rocky water-holes. When he brought this welcome intelligence, we
immediately loaded our bullocks, and moved to these water-holes; on which
it appeared some natives had encamped very lately. The country around was
broken and scrubby; but in general it was well-grassed, with a sound
soil. Our latitude was 17 degrees 52 minutes 53 seconds.
The wind, during the last two days, was from the southward in the
forenoon, and from the westward in the afternoon. The nights were calm
and clear, but very cold.
Mr. Calvert had happily recovered so much as to be able to resume his
duties; and, notwithstanding the fatigues of the last long stage, Mr.
Roper had slightly improved.
July 22.--Last night was beautifully clear and calm, until midnight, when
a cold south wind set in, which made us all shiver with cold. I had not
felt it so much since the night of Mr. Gilbert's death, nor since we left
the upper Lynd and the table land of the Burdekin. The wind was equally
strong in the morning from the south-east, and veered in the course of
the day to the south and south-west.
We travelled about eight miles and a half W.N.W. to lat. 17 degrees 50
minutes 28 seconds, at first passing over a scrubby country, which
changed into box flats when we approached the waterless creek, at which
we encamped on the night of the 20th. To the westward of this creek, box
flats alternated with tea-tree thickets; and opened at last into a large
plain, which we crossed at its southern termination, where it was three
miles broad; it appeared boundless to the northward. Plains of the same
character had been dimly seen through the open forest to the northward,
for some time before we came to the one we crossed. This was not covered
with the stiff grass, nor the dry wind-grass of the plains north of the
Staaten; but it bore a fine crop of tender grasses, which rendered them
infinitely more valuable for the pasture of horses and cattle. At the
west side of the plain, we found a chain of fine long lagoons, surrounded
by Polygonum, and apparently well stocked with fish.
Charley and Brown caught an emu, with the assistance of the dog, which
became every day more valuable to us.
Since Mr. Gilbert's death, the arrangements of our camp have been
changed. I now select an entirely open space, sufficiently distant from
any scrub or thicket, even if we have to go a considerable distance for
water. Our pack-saddles are piled in two parallel lines close together,
facing that side from which a covered attack of the natives might be
expected. We sleep behind this kind of bulwark, which of itself would
have been a sufficient barrier against the spears of the natives. Tired
as we generally are, we retire early to our couch; Charley usually takes
the first watch, from half-past six to nine o'clock; Brown, Calvert, and
Phillips follow in rotation; whilst I take that portion of the night most
favourable for taking the altitude. John Murphy has his watch from five
to six. We generally tethered three horses, and kept one bridled; and,
with these arrangements, we slept as securely and soundly as ever; for I
felt sure that we had nothing to fear, as long as our tinkling
bell-horse, and perhaps a second horse, was moving near us. The natives
considered our animals to be large dogs, and had frequently asked whether
they would bite (which I affirmed, of course); so that they themselves
furnished us with a protection, which otherwise I should not have thought
of inventing.
July 23.--When Charley returned this morning with the horses, he told me,
that a fine broad salt-water river was again before us. I kept,
therefore, at once to the southward, and feared that I should have to go
far in that direction before being able to ford it. After travelling
about two miles, we came in sight of it. It was broad and deep, with low
rocky banks. Salicornia grew along the small gullies into which the tide
flowed; some struggling stunted mangroves were on the opposite side; and
the plains along the right side of the river were occupied by a scanty
vegetation, consisting of Phyllanthus shrubs, scattered box, and the
raspberry-jam trees. We had travelled, however, more than a mile on its
bank, when we came to a broad rocky barrier or dam extending across the
river, over which a small stream of brackish water rippled, and, by means
of this, we crossed without difficulty. I now steered again north-west by
west, and passed at first some fine shady lagoons, and for the next six
miles, over an immense plain, apparently unlimited to the north and
north-east. At its west side we again found Polygonum lagoons, which were
swarming with ducks, (particularly Malacorhynchus membranaceus), and teal
(Querquedula). Box, raspberry-jam trees, and Acacia, (Inga moniliformis,
D.C.) formed a shady grove round these lagoons, which continued towards
the south-east. Their latitude was 17 degrees 49 minutes 35 seconds.
Smoke was visible in every part of the horizon. Charley, Brown, and John,
shot fourteen ducks, and increased this number towards evening to
forty-six ducks, five recurvirostris, one small red-shank, and two
spoon-bills: the latter were particularly fat, and, when ready for the
spit, weighed better than three pounds; the black ducks weighed a pound
and three-quarters. The Malacorhynchus was small, but in good condition,
and the fat seemed to accumulate particularly in the skin of the neck.
The south wind, as usual, visited us again last night, and made it
exceedingly cold. This intense cold is probably owing to the large
plains, over which the wind passes. We were never so much troubled by
swarms of flies, as during the last two days; it was impossible to get
rid of them by any means.
July 24.--We travelled about six miles north-west to latitude 17 degrees
48 minutes, and crossed several plains separated by belts of open forest,
and came to a fine salt-water river; the banks were steep but not high,
and stunted mangroves grew on the water's edge: the raspberry-jam tree
covered the approaches to the river. Salicornia and Binoe's Trichinium
grew round the dry ponds, and along the small water-courses, into which
the tide flowed. We found a good crossing place at a fishery of the
natives; who--to judge by the number of their tracks through the soft
mud, and by the two large camps on both sides of the river, which were
covered with fish-bones--must be very numerous. We continued our journey
for about a mile and a half from the river, and came to some grassy
fresh-water lagoons, although the Salicornias at first made me think they
were brackish.
Shortly after starting this morning, we saw a brood of thirteen emus, on
the plain which we were about to cross. John, Charley, and the dog
pursued them, and killed the old one; which, however, severely wounded
poor Spring in the neck. When we came up to them with the train, the
twelve young ones had returned in search of their mother; upon which
Brown gave chase with Spring, and killed two. This was the greatest sport
we ever had had on our journey. Upon making our camp, we cut part of
their meat into slices, and dried it on green hide ropes; the bones,
heads, and necks were stewed: formerly, we threw the heads, gizzards, and
feet away, but necessity had taught us economy; and, upon trial, the feet
of young emus was found to be as good and tender as cow-heel. I collected
some salt on the dry salt ponds, and added it to our stew; but my
companions scarcely cared for it, and almost preferred the soup without
it. The addition, however, rendered the soup far more savoury, at least
to my palate.
July 25.--We travelled N. 60 degrees W. and, at two miles, reached a
salt-water creek, which we crossed at a fishing place of the natives.
Soon afterwards we came on other shallow half dry salt-water creeks, the
dry parts of which were covered with thick incrustations of salt, some of
which we collected. Our bullocks were very seriously bogged in crossing
one of them. After passing this intricate meshwork of boggy channels, we
entered upon an immense plain, with patches of forest appearing here and
there in the distance. It was well grassed, but its sandy patches were
covered with Salicornia. This plant abounded particularly where the plain
sloped into the system of salt-water creeks; the approaches of which were
scattered over with the raspberry-jam tree. A west-north-west and west
course led me constantly to salt water; and we saw a large expanse of it
in the distance, which Charley, to whose superior sight all deference was
paid, considered to be the sea. I passed some low stunted forest, in
which a small tree was observed, with stiff pinnate leaves and a round
fruit of the size of a small apple, with a rough stone, and a very
nauseous rind, at least in its unripe state. To the westward of this belt
of forest, we crossed extensive marshes covered with tender, though dry
grass, and surrounded by low Ironstone ridges, openly timbered with
stunted silver-leaved Ironbark, several white gums, and Hakea lorea, R.
Br. in full blossom. We had not seen the latter for a long time, although
Grevillea mimosoides, with which it was generally associated, had been
our constant companion.
Beyond the ridges, we came again on salt-water creeks, and saw sheets of
sand, which looked like the sea from the distance. I turned to the south
and even south-east; and, finding no water, we were compelled to encamp
without it, after a very long and fatiguing stage. Whilst we were
occupied in tethering and hobbling our horses, and eating our supper,
Charley, whose watch it was, allowed the bullocks to stray in search of
water, and the next morning he was so long absent whilst looking for
them, that my exhausted companions became impatient; and I thought it
advisable to send them back to our last camp with as many pack-horses as
we could muster, myself remaining alone to guard the rest of our
property. They found three of the bullocks on the plain, in the most
wretched condition, and met Charley returning with four others, which had
made an immense round along all the salt-water creeks. My companions,
however, were fortunate enough to find a fresh water lagoon about three
miles west of our last camp. John and Charley returned after moon-rise,
with three pack-horses, and arrived at my camp at a quarter to seven in
the morning. I had been in a state of the most anxious suspense about the
fate of our bullocks, and was deeply thankful to the Almighty when I
heard that they were all safe. I had suffered much from thirst, having
been forty-eight hours without water, and which had been increased by a
run of two miles after my horse, which attempted to follow the others;
and also from a severe pain in the head, produced by the impatient
brute's jumping with its hobbled forefeet on my forehead, as I was lying
asleep with the bridle in my hand; but, after drinking three quarts of
cold tea which John had brought with him, I soon recovered, and assisted
to load our horses with the remainder of our luggage, when we returned to
join our companions. The weather was very hot during the day, but a cool
breeze moved over the plains, and the night, as usual, was very cold.
Yesterday morning, John and Brown rode down to a hollow to look for
water, whilst we were waiting for the bullocks. At their return, they
stated that they had come to two salt-water creeks, all full of salt, of
which they brought several lumps. I started immediately with Mr. Calvert
and Brown, and, sure enough! I found the broad bed of a creek one mass of
the purest and whitest salt. Lumps of it had crystallized round stems of
grasses which the wind had blown into the water. A little higher up the
creek, a large pool of water was full of these lumps, and in less than
ten minutes we collected more than sufficient to supply us for the rest
of the journey. Ship loads of pure salt could have been collected here in
a very short time, requiring nothing but drying and housing, until it
could be removed. Its appearance was quite new and wonderful to me, who
had been so busily employed in scraping the incrustations full of mud
from the dry beds of the creeks.
Yesterday, Brown shot a black-winged pelican; the pectoral muscles and
the extremities of which proved good eating; but the inside and the fat
were of a nauseously fishy taste. Charley shot a bustard, and John a
black ibis. The smoke of the Black-fellows' fires was seen to the
southward. The fresh grass of recent burnings extended over all the
plains, and even near our waterle encampment, where its bright verdure
made us believe that we approached a fresh water swamp.
July 27.--I stopped at this camp to allow our cattle to recover from
their fatigue; intending afterwards to proceed up the river until I came
into the zone of fresh water, which we had left, and then to continue my
course to the west and north-west. During our stay in this place, Mr.
Calvert found a piece of pack canvass, rolled round some utensils of the
natives.
July 28.--We travelled about ten miles south by east; but were soon
compelled by the salt-water creeks to leave the river, which seemed to
come from south-south-east. We crossed several mangrove creeks, one of
which contained a weir formed by many rows of dry sticks. These creeks
were too boggy to be forded in any part where the tide reached, and we
had to follow them up for several miles, until their beds divided into
lagoons. Here the drooping tea-tree re-appeared, which I considered to
indicate the presence of fresh water, at least for a part of the year. I
found them, however, at times, on salt-water rivers, not on the level of
the salt water, but high on the banks within the reach of the freshes
during the rainy season. In turning again towards the river, we crossed a
large plain, from which pillars of smoke were seen rising above the green
belt of raspberry-jam trees which covered the approaches to the river.
After passing some forest of Moreton Bay ash, bloodwood, clustered box,
Acacia (Inga moniliformis), and a few Bauhinias, we came to another
salt-water creek, with a sandy bed and deposits of fine salt. Very narrow
flats extended along both sides of the creek, and rose by water-torn
slopes into large treeless plains. The slopes were, as usual, covered
with raspberry-jam trees. I saw smoke to the south-ward, and, on
proceeding towards it, we came to a fine lagoon of fresh water in the bed
of the creek.
July 29.--We travelled about five miles and a half south-south-east up
the creek, and encamped in latitude 18 degrees 2 minutes. The character
of the country was the same. When about two miles from our last camp, we
came upon a tribe of natives fishing in a water-hole, near which a
considerable quantity of large and small fish was heaped. The men made a
tremendous noise, which frightened our bullocks, and hastened to the
place where their gins were. The latter, among whom was a remarkably tall
one, decamped at our approach. A fine shell of Dolium was in their camp,
which we passed through. After we had passed by, the natives followed us;
upon which I returned towards them, and hung a nose ring on the branch of
a small tree. This sign of friendly disposition on my side, emboldened
them to approach me and demand a parley. I, therefore, dismounted, and,
accompanied by Charley, divided some empty tin canisters among them, with
which they seemed highly satisfied. They were altogether fine men. Three
or four old men with grey beards were amongst them; and they introduced a
young handsome lad to me, with a net on his head and a quill through his
nose, calling him "Yappar." He was probably a youth of the Yappar tribe
who had been sent forward as a messenger to inform them of our having
passed that country. Seeing my watch, they pointed to the sun; and
appeared to be well acquainted with the use of my gun.
Further up the creek, we again saw some storied gunyas of the natives.
July 30.--We travelled about ten miles west by south, over an immense
plain, with here and there a solitary tree, or a small patch of forest.
It was full of melon-holes, and much resembled the plains of the
Condamine. Salicornia and Binoe's Trichinium were wanting. At the west
side of the plain, a green belt of forest stretched from north to south.
Before we entered into it, and into the valley of the creek, along which
it extended, we passed some open forest of stunted silver-leaved
Ironbark. On the slopes of the plains we met, as usual, the raspberry-jam
tree thickets, and on the flats and hollows along the creek, the
clustered box; whilst, on the banks of the creek, grew the broad-leaved
Terminalia and Acacia (Inga moniliformis). Following the creek up about
half a mile, we found a fine rocky water-hole. The rock was a clayey
Ironstone.
When entering upon the plain in the morning, we saw two emus on a patch
of burnt grass. Brown and Charley gave chase to them; but Brown's horse
stumbled and threw him, and unfortunately broke the stock of the double
barrelled fowling piece, and bent the barrels. Spring took hold of the
emu, which dragged him to the lagoon we had left, pursued by Charley on
foot. The emu plunged into the water, and, having given Spring and
Charley a good ducking, made its escape, notwithstanding its lacerated
thigh. Three harlequin pigeons, and six rose-breasted cockatoos (Cocatua
Eos, GOULD.), were shot on the plains.
The weather was delightful; a fine breeze from the east cooled the air.
July 31.--We made about ten miles due west, the latitude of our camp
being 18 degrees 6 minutes 42 seconds. After passing some Ironstone
ridges, covered with stunted silver-leaved Ironbark, we entered upon a
large plain, from which we saw some low ranges to the south, and smoke to
the W. 20 degrees S. I followed this course about seven miles; but the
smoke was still very distant, and, perceiving a belt of forest to the
westward, I took that direction, passed the head of a small creek which
went to the southward, crossed some box forest and Ironbark ridges, and
came into an open country, with alternating plains and ridges, which,
even at the present season, was very pretty, and must, when clothed in
the garments of Spring, be very beautiful. The creek which we had met at
the east side of the forest, had swept round the ridges, and was now
again before us, pursuing a north-west course. A fine plain extended
along it, on which I observed Acacia Farnesiana of Darling Downs, the
grass of the Isaacs, and several grasses of the Suttor. The holes of the
creek were shaded by large Terminalias, and by a white gum, with slightly
drooping foliage of a pleasing green colour. We followed the creek down,
and soon came again to Ironstone ridges.
I had sent Charley forward to look for water, and, when he joined us
again, he told me that there was a water-hole, but that natives, for the
greater part gins, were encamped on it. I could not help taking
possession of it, as there were none besides, to our knowledge; and our
bullocks and horses were fatigued by a long stage. I, therefore, rode up
to it alone; the gins had decamped, but a little urchin remained, who was
probably asleep when his mother went. He cried bitterly, as he made his
way through the high grass, probably in search for his mother. Thinking
it prudent to tie an iron ring to his neck, that his parents might see we
were peaceably inclined, I caught the little fellow, who threw his stick
at me, and defended himself most manfully when I laid hold of him. Having
dismissed him with an angry slap on his fat little posteriors, he walked
away crying, but keeping hold of the iron ring: his mother came down from
the ridge to meet him, laughing loud, and cheering with jokes.
I observed ironstone pebbles, and large pieces of a fine grained flaggy
sandstone on the first plains we crossed; the sandstone was excellent to
sharpen our knives.