BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL--NIGHT WATCH--ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND
HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY--MOUNT LANG--STREAMS OF LAVA--A HORSE
BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN--NATIVE TRIBE--MR. ROPER'S
ACCIDENT--WHITSUNDAY--BIG ANT HILL CREEK--DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY
HOURS--FRIENDLY NATIVES--SEPARATION CREEK--THE LYND--PSYCHOLOGICAL
EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS--NATIVE CAMP--SALT EXHAUSTED.
May 1.--We travelled west by north, to latitude 18 degrees 55 minutes 41
seconds, over almost a dead flat, which was only interrupted by a fine
Casuarina creek, with a broad sandy bed, coming from the
south-south-west. The soil was stiff, and the forest in which the Box
tree prevailed, was very open. A species of Acacia, with narrow blunt
phyllodia, about an inch long, with spinous stipules; Hakea lorea, and
the Grevillea mimosoides (R. Br.), with very long linear leaves, were
frequent. Towards the end of the journey, slight ridges, composed of
flint rock, rose on our left; and the country became more undulating. Mr.
Roper saw extensive ranges about fifteen miles distant; shortly before
entering the camp, we passed a singularly broken country, in which the
waters rushing down from a slightly inclined table land, had hollowed out
large broad gullies in a sandy loam and iron ochre, which was full of
quartz pebbles. The heavier masses had resisted the action of the waters,
and remained like little peaks and islands, when the softer materials
around them had been washed away. We met with grass lately burnt, and
some still burning, which indicated the presence of natives. It was
generally very warm during the hours of travelling, between eight and
twelve o'clock, but the bracing air of the nights and mornings
strengthened us for the day's labour; the weather altogether was lovely,
and it was a pleasure to travel along such a fine stream of water.
Easterly and north-easterly breezes still prevailed, though I expected
that the direction of the winds would change as we passed the centre of
York Peninsula.
Our two black companions, who until now had been like
brothers--entertaining each other by the relation of their adventures, to
a late hour of the night; singing, chatting, laughing, and almost crying
together; making common cause against me; Brown even following Charley
into his banishment--quarrelled yesterday, about a mere trifle, so
violently that it will be some time before they become friends again.
When Mr. Calvert and Brown returned yesterday to the camp, they remarked
that they had not seen the waterfall, of which Charley had spoken whilst
at our last camp; upon which Charley insinuated that they had not seen
it, because they had galloped their horses past it. This accusation of
galloping their horses irritated Brown, who was very fond and proud of
his horse; and a serious quarrel of a rather ridiculous character ensued.
Keeping myself entirely neutral, I soon found that I derived the greatest
advantage from their animosity to each other, as each tried to outdo the
other in readiness to serve me. To-day, Charley, who was usually the last
to rise in the morning, roused even me, and brought the horses before our
breakfast was ready. Brown's fondness for spinning a yarn will soon,
however, induce him to put an end to this feud with his companion and
countryman. In the early part of our journey, one or other of our party
kept a regular night-watch, as well to guard us from any night attack of
the natives, as to look after our bullocks; but, latterly, this
prudential measure, or rather its regularity, has been much neglected.
Mr. Roper's watch was handed from one to another in alphabetical rotation
at given intervals, but no one thought of actually watching; it was, in
fact, considered to be a mere matter of form. I did not check this,
because there was nothing apparently to apprehend from the natives, who
always evinced terror in meeting us; and all our communications with them
have been accidental and never sought by them. On that point, therefore,
I was not apprehensive; and, as to the bullocks, they were now accustomed
to feed at large, and we seldom had any difficulty in recovering them in
the morning. I shall here particularise the routine of one of our days,
which will serve as an example of all the rest. I usually rise when I
hear the merry laugh of the laughing-jackass (Dacelo gigantea), which,
from its regularity, has not been unaptly named the settlers' clock; a
loud cooee then roused my companions,--Brown to make tea, Mr. Calvert to
season the stew with salt and marjoram, and myself and the others to
wash, and to prepare our breakfast, which, for the party, consists of two
pounds and a-half of meat, stewed over night; and to each a quart pot of
tea. Mr. Calvert then gives to each his portion, and, by the time this
important duty is performed, Charley generally arrives with the horses,
which are then prepared for their day's duty. After breakfast, Charley
goes with John Murphy to fetch the bullocks, which are generally brought
in a little after seven o'clock a.m. The work of loading follows, but
this requires very little time now, our stock being much reduced; and, at
about a quarter to eight o'clock, we move on, and continue travelling
four hours, and, if possible, select a spot for our camp. The Burdekin,
which has befriended us so much by its direct course and constant stream,
already for more than two degrees of latitude and two of longitude, has
not always furnished us with the most convenient camps for procuring
water. The banks generally formed steep slopes descending into a line of
hollows parallel to the river, and thickly covered with a high stiff
grass; and then another steep bank covered with a thicket of drooping
tea-trees, rose at the water's edge; and, if the descent into the bed of
the river was more easy, the stream frequently was at the opposite side,
and we had to walk several hundred yards over a broad sheet of loose
sand, which filled our mocassins, when going to wash. At present, the
river is narrower, and I have chosen my camp twice on its dry sandy bed,
under the shade of Casuarinas and Melaleucas, the stream being there
comparatively easy of access, and not ten yards off. Many unpleasant
remarks had been made by my companions at my choice of camping places;
but, although I suffered as much inconvenience as they did, I bore it
cheerfully, feeling thankful to Providence for the pure stream of water
with which we were supplied every night. I had naturally a great
antipathy against comfort-hunting and gourmandizing, particularly on an
expedition like ours; on which we started with the full expectation of
suffering much privation, but which an Almighty Protector had not only
allowed us to escape hitherto, but had even supplied us frequently with
an abundance--in proof of which we all got stronger and improved in
health, although the continued riding had rather weakened our legs. This
antipathy I expressed, often perhaps too harshly, which caused
discontent; but, on these occasions, my patience was sorely tried. I may,
however, complete the picture of the day: as soon as the camp is pitched,
and the horses and bullocks unloaded, we have all our alloted duties; to
make the fire falls to my share; Brown's duty is to fetch water for tea;
and Mr. Calvert weighs out a pound and a-half of flour for a fat cake,
which is enjoyed more than any other meal; the large teapot being empty,
Mr. Calvert weighs out two and a-half pounds of dry meat to be stewed for
our late dinner; and, during the afternoon, every one follows his own
pursuits, such as washing and mending clothes, repairing saddles,
pack-saddles, and packs; my occupation is to write my log, and lay down
my route, or make an excursion in the vicinity of the camp to botanize,
etc. or ride out reconnoitring. My companions also write down their
remarks, and wander about gathering seeds, or looking for curious
pebbles. Mr. Gilbert takes his gun to shoot birds. A loud cooee again
unites us towards sunset round our table cloth; and, whilst enjoying our
meals, the subject of the day's journey, the past, the present, and the
future, by turns engage our attention, or furnish matter for conversation
and remark, according to the respective humour of the parties. Many
circumstances have conspired to make me strangely taciturn, and I am now
scarcely pleased even with the chatting humour of my youngest companion,
whose spirits, instead of flagging, have become more buoyant and lively
than ever. I consider it, however, my invariable duty to give every
information I can, whenever my companions inquire or show a desire to
learn, and I am happy to find that they are desirous of making themselves
familiar with the objects of nature by which they are surrounded, and of
understanding their mutual relations. Mr. Roper is of a more silent
disposition; Mr. Calvert likes to speak, and has a good stock of "small
talk," with which he often enlivens our dinners; he is in that respect an
excellent companion, being full of jokes and stories, which, though old
and sometimes quaint, are always pure, and serve the more to exhilarate
the party. Mr. Gilbert has travelled much, and consequently has a rich
store of impressions de voyage: his conversation is generally very
pleasing and instructive, in describing the character of countries he has
seen, and the manners and customs of the people he has known. He is well
informed in Australian Ornithology. As night approaches, we retire to our
beds. The two Blackfellows and myself spread out each our own under the
canopy of heaven, whilst Messrs. Roper, Calvert, Gilbert, Murphy, and
Phillips, have their tents. Mr. Calvert entertains Roper with his
conversation; John amuses Gilbert; Brown tunes up his corroborri songs,
in which Charley, until their late quarrel, generally joined. Brown sings
well, and his melodious plaintive voice lulls me to sleep, when otherwise
I am not disposed. Mr. Phillips is rather singular in his habits; he
erects his tent generally at a distance from the rest, under a shady
tree, or in a green bower of shrubs, where he makes himself as
comfortable as the place will allow, by spreading branches and grass
under his couch, and covering his tent with them, to keep it shady and
cool, and even planting lilies in blossom (Crinum) before his tent, to
enjoy their sight during the short time of our stay. As the night
advances, the Blackfellows' songs die away; the chatting tongue of Murphy
ceases, after having lulled Mr. Gilbert to sleep; and at last even Mr.
Calvert is silent, as Roper's short answers became few and far between.
The neighing of the tethered horse, the distant tinkling of the bell, or
the occasional cry of night birds, alone interrupt the silence of our
camp. The fire, which was bright as long as the corroborri songster kept
it stirred, gradually gets dull, and smoulders slowly under the large pot
in which our meat is simmering; and the bright constellations of heaven
pass unheeded over the heads of the dreaming wanderers of the wilderness,
until the summons of the laughing jackass recalls them to the business of
the coming day.
May 2.--We travelled in a N.W. direction to lat. 18 degrees 50 minutes 11
seconds; at first over the box flats, alternating with an undulating open
country. About three miles before making our camp, we passed several
small plains at the foot of what appeared to be basaltic ridges, and came
to the dry channel of a river, with reeds and occasional water-holes, and
lined with fine flooded-gum trees and Casuarinas, but without the
dropping tea trees and the Moreton Bay ash, the latter of which seemed to
be the prerogative of the Burdekin. At its left side a basaltic ridge
rose, covered with thick scrub, and at its base extended a small plain,
with black soil strewed with quartz pebbles. The river came, as well as I
could judge, from the W.N.W. Mr. Roper and Brown caught a kangaroo, but
they had a dangerous ride after it, and the poor brute, when hard
pressed, showed fight, and endeavoured to lay hold of Mr. Roper.
In one of the creeks I observed pegmatite; pebbles of talc-schiste and of
white quartz covered the bed of the river.
May 3.--We had to travel for a considerable distance in the bed of the
river, for the hills approached close to its banks, and numerous deep
gullies intercepted their slopes. When, however, the ridges receded, we
passed several fine sound flats. The forest was open everywhere, and the
grass was good, though old. After travelling about five miles, we saw a
hill to the north-east, and, when we came almost abreast of it, the river
turned to the eastward, and a wild field of broken basaltic lava rendered
it impossible for us to follow its banks. The black rough masses of rock
were covered with thick scrub, in which I observed numerous bottle trees
with the platanus leaf. Keeping to the westward of the scrub, I followed
a creek which farther on divided in a chain of ponds, into which the
waters of the field of basalt, as well as of the basaltic ridges to the
westward of it, collected. These ridges were perfectly level at their
summits, and were connected with a table land which extended far to the
west. At their foot sienite, quartz rock, and leptinite, were observed.
After turning round the field of lava to the eastward, we entered into a
large flat, with patches of narrow-leaved tea tree, with reedy swamps and
fine flooded-gum trees, and made our camp at a strong running brook,
without trees, but densely surrounded with reeds, ferns, and pothos. This
stream formed the outlet of some fine lagoons, which extended along the
steep slopes of the basaltic table land. I crossed the creek and its flat
to the opposite hills. The flat was one level sheet or floor of basalt,
here and there covered with a very shallow soil, but sometimes bare,
though clothed with a fair supply of grass and with scattered flooded-gum
trees. At the foot of the eastern hills, however, deep holes existed in a
water-course, with black blocks of basalt heaped over each other, on
which the fig tree with its dark green foliage formed a shady bower, most
delightful during the heat of the day. The hills were composed of a
lamellar granite, approaching the stratified appearance of gneiss, but
the leaflets of mica, instead of forming continuous layers, were
scattered. The east side of the narrow watercourse was of primitive rock,
the west side basaltic. Having passed over the hills, I made the river at
their east side. Its banks were open for access as far as the primitive
rock extended, but another field of lava commenced higher up, and
rendered any progress with our cattle impossible.
A native low shrubby Mulberry was found in this scrub, the fruit of which
was good to eat, but of very small size.
From the top of the hills I enjoyed a most beautiful view of the valley
of the river, with its large lagoons covered with Nymphaeas and
Damasoniums. On one of the lagoons, Charley shot a Parra gallinacea, a
bird which Mr. Gilbert had observed only at Port Essington. A well beaten
path of the natives showed that they were numerous in this part of the
country: we saw many of their camping places during the stage; and the
fires of their camps were numerous; we saw a party of them, but they were
too frightened to allow us to approach. Our latitude was 18 degrees 44
minutes 48 seconds. Our course was about N.N.W.
May 4.--We ascended the basaltic ridges, and reaching the table land,
found it perfectly level, openly timbered, well grassed, but occasionally
stony, by which our poor foot-sore bullocks suffered severely. About five
miles north-west by west from our camp, we discovered an extensive valley
with large lagoons and lakes, and a most luxuriant vegetation, bounded by
blue distant ranges, and forming the most picturesque landscape we had
yet met with. A chain of lagoons connected by a reedy brook followed the
outlines of the table land, along the foot of its steep slopes. We
descended by a tolerably gentle slope into the valley, and encamped near
the reedy brook, which must be the same as that on which, lower down, our
last camp was formed. Water, grass, hills, mountains, plains, forest
land; all the elements of a fine pasturing country, were here united.
During one of the last stages, we discovered a leguminous tree, with the
dark fissured bark of the Ironbark, but with large bipinnate leaves, the
leaflets oblong, an inch in length; the pods broad and thin, and two or
three inches long: this tree is common all over the northern part of the
continent, and was found growing abundantly around Victoria, the
principal settlement of Port Essington.
Mr. Roper and Brown, upon an excursion after ducks, which were very
numerous on the lagoons, met with Blackfellows, who were willing to
accost Brown, but could not bear the sudden sight of a white face. In
trying to cross the valley, my course was intercepted every way by deep
reedy and sedgy lagoons, which rendered my progress impossible. I saw,
however, that this valley was also floored with a sheet of lava hollowed
out into numerous deep basins, in which the water collected and formed
the lagoons.
May 5.--I went with Charley to reconnoitre the upper part of the reedy
brook, with a view to find a passage over the table land to the westward;
at the same time I sent Mr. Roper and Brown to trace the river through
the lagoons, and to examine whether there was any connection between
them. I followed the base of the basaltic table land, along which the
brook came down, and, after a two miles' ride on its banks, through oak
trees, low fern trees, and several bush trees, found that it came down a
valley deeply cut into the table land. The floor of the valley was of
basaltic rock, and its steep slopes were covered with boulders of the
same formation. The water ran in two distinct beds through the fissures,
hollows, and caves of the rock. As our horses could not travel over the
sharp edges of the rock without injuring their feet, we ascended the
table land, and rode to the northward about four miles, and then came on
plains, in which we distinguished a meandering band of green verdure,
which proved to be the same brook we had left, or one of its head waters.
We followed it through a series of plains, from one of which a blue
mountain was visible to the north-west. I called it "Mount Lang," after
Dr. Lang, the distinguished historiographer of New South Wales. Smoke was
seen to the westward. At the right side of the brook, a stream of lava
bounded the plains, and was, as usual, covered with dense scrub. Box,
with occasional patches of narrow-leaved tea trees, grew along the
plains. The forest was very open, and principally consisted of
narrow-leaved Ironbark; the grass in the forest and on the plains, was of
the best description. Finer stations for the squatter cannot exist.
May 6.--Following the brook about four miles farther, I came to its
source at a gentle slope of basalt. Plains stretched along both sides of
its course, and even beyond it. Luxuriant reeds, Plothos, and several
deep green trees, crowded round its head. Kangaroos, which abounded
particularly along the scrub, had formed numerous paths through the high
grass to the water's edge. I now directed my course to the W.N.W., but
soon found myself checked by a dyke or wall of basaltic lava, composed of
boulders and tabular blocks heaped over each other in wild confusion, and
covered by scrub; it stretched from N.W. to S.E. I travelled round its
edge to the southward, after having made a vain attempt to cross it. The
outlines of the stream ran out in low heads into the flat table land, and
there we met occasionally with springs and chains of water-holes which
united lower down into a water-course, which, after following alternately
the outline of the scrub, and turning into the stream of lava, became
lost among its loose rocks. The lava was very cellular; the basalt of the
table land solid. The whole appearance of this interesting locality
showed that the stream of lava was of much more recent date than the rock
of the table land, and that the latter was probably formed under water,
whilst the cellular scorified lava was poured out into the open air. The
stream of lava enlarged so much, and descended into so broad a valley,
that I considered it to be the head of the Burdekin. I walked across it,
in order to ascertain the presence of water, but found nothing but deep
dry hollows surrounded with drooping tea trees, and the black basaltic
rocks covered with wild bottle-tree scrub. It joined the valley of
lagoons very much like the valley of the reedy brook, and seemed to unite
with the latter, and to expand all over the large basin. Numerous
headlands protruded from the table land into the valley of lagoons,
between the stream of lava and reedy brook. Many of them were composed of
quartzite and pegmatite [Graphic granite, composed of quartz and
laminated felspar.--ED.], the detritus of which formed sandy slopes very
different from the black and loamy soil of the table land and its plains.
Several isolated hills and short ridges rise out of the basaltic floor of
the valley of lagoons; they are composed of a different rock; and if it
may be allowed me to judge by the colour and by analogy, I should say
that they were pegmatite and quartzite. It would, therefore, appear that
the valley of lagoons is connected with three streams of lava; one
following down the river to the southward, a second coming down the
valley of Reedy Brook from W.N.W., and the third coming from the N.W. The
course of the Burdekin has no connection with this valley, but runs
apparently along its eastern side, and divides the primitive rocks from
the streams of lava; for I had not observed any lava on its left bank.
In returning to our camp, we saw a great number of women and children,
who ran away upon seeing us, screaming loudly, which attracted some young
men to the spot, who were much bolder and approached us. I dismounted and
walked up within five yards of them, when I stopped short from a mutual
disinclination for too close quarters, as they were armed with spears and
waddies. They made signs for me to take off my hat, and to give them
something; but, having nothing with me, I made a sign that I would make
them a present upon returning to the camp. They appeared to be in no way
unfriendly, and directed us how to avoid the water. When I reached the
camp, I found that the Blackfellows had been there already, and had been
rather urgent to enter it, probably in consequence of the small number of
my companions then present, who, however, managed to keep them in good
humour by replying to their inquiries respecting our nature and
intentions; among which one of the most singular was, whether the
bullocks were not our gins. This occurred last night; in the morning they
returned again in great numbers, and climbed the trees on the other side
of the brook to observe what was doing within the camp. It now became
necessary to show them our superiority; which we attempted to do by
shooting at a kite, numbers of which were perched on the neighbouring
trees; our shots, however, unfortunately missed, and the natives answered
the discharge of the gun with a shout of laughter. At this time, however,
Mr. Roper, Charley, and myself returned from our excursion, when they
became quiet. I threw a tin canister over to them, and they returned me a
shower of roasted Nymphaea fruit. It seems that the seed-vessels of
Nymphaea and its rhizoma form the principal food of the natives; the
seeds contain much starch and oil, and are extremely nourishing. I then
gave them some pieces of dried meat, intimating by signs that it must be
grilled; soon afterwards they retired. Mr. Roper came in with sad
tidings; in riding up the steep bank of the river, his horse, unable to
get a footing among the loose rocks, had fallen back and broken its
thigh. I immediately resolved upon going to the place where the accident
had happened, and proposed to my companions, that we should try to make
the best of the meat, as the animal was young and healthy, and the supply
would greatly assist in saving our bullocks to the end of our long
journey; and they declared themselves willing at all events to give a
fair trial to the horse-flesh. Our bullocks were foot-sore and required
rest. We, therefore, shot the horse, skinned and quartered it the same
night; and ate its liver and kidneys, which were quite as good as those
of a bullock.
May 7.--We cut the meat in slices, and dried it; and though there was
some prejudice against it, it would have been very difficult to have
detected any difference between it and beef; particularly if the animals
had been in the same condition.
May 8.--As I found it necessary to follow the right bank of the river, in
order to get out of this intricate country, I sent Mr. Gilbert and
Charley to trace the river through the valley of lagoons. Having
accomplished their object, they informed me that the river had no
connexion with the lagoons of the large valley, but that several very
large ones were even on its left bank; and that all tree vegetation
disappeared from its banks where it passed through a part of the valley
of lagoons.
May 9.--As my bullocks were still extremely foot-sore, it was necessary
that we should travel only by short stages until they recovered;
consequently, the day's journey did not exceed five miles in a N.N.E.
direction; and, with the exception of some ridges, upon excellent
travelling ground, along the left bank of the river. The latter formed,
as I have already stated, the line of separation, first, between basalt
and granite, and afterwards between basalt and a quartzose rock (probably
baked Psammite). The country was beautifully open and well grassed; the
river forming a simple channel, without trees, well filled with water and
flowing between chains of lakes and lagoons on either side; one of which
was covered with flocks of ducks and pelicans, resembling islands of
white lilies.
Beyond the almost treeless flats round the lagoons, Casuarinas and
Callistemon re-appeared along the river.
We saw some Blackfellows in the distance, who immediately withdrew as we
approached them; but the tribe, which we had met at Reedy Brook, came to
the other side of the river, and had much to say; we did not, however,
take any notice of them, until we had unloaded our bullocks and finished
our luncheon, when I went down to them, and gave them a horn of one of
our slaughtered bullocks. Roper had saved the mane of his horse, and
threw it over to them, but it seemed to frighten them very much. We
inquired by signs as to the course of the river, and we understood by
their answers, that it came a long way from the northward. At Reedy Brook
the natives had given my companions to understand that the brook had its
source not very far off to the W.N.W., by pointing at their heads, then
at the brook, and then in the direction mentioned. I was therefore
inclined to trust to their information about the river's source. They
threw some yam-roots over to us, the plant of which we were not able to
ascertain: and after that they retired.
May 10.--This morning they came again, and, when our bullocks were loaded
and we were about to start, I went down to them and took a sort of leave.
We had scarcely proceeded half a mile, when we missed the tinkling of our
bell, and found that Charley had forgotten to put it on the horse's neck,
and had left it behind. Mr. Calvert and Brown, therefore, returned to
look for it, and, upon reaching the place where the camp had been made,
saw the natives examining and beating every part of it; at the approach
of the horsemen, however, they retired to the other side of the river;
but when they turned their horses' heads, after having found the bell,
the natives followed them, and threw three spears after them--whether it
was out of mere wantonness, or with hostile intentions, I do not know,
though I was inclined to believe the first. It was, nevertheless, a
warning to us not to repose too much confidence in them. Mr. Roper met
to-day with a severe accident, which nearly cost him his life. It was a
very common practice to make our horses stop by catching them by the
tails; as he tried to do this with his horse, which was not yet
accustomed to him, the animal struck out at him, and kicked him with both
feet on the chest. Roper happily recovered after some faintness, but
complained for several days afterwards of external pain. We travelled
this day about four miles and a half N.N.E. along the river side,
following a well-beaten path of the natives.
The river was again confined in its own valley, with quartzose rocks
(Psammite) on one side, and the falls of the basaltic table land on the
other. Basalt was, however, observed here about on several spots at the
left bank, and quartz porphyry composed the ridges near our last
encampment. The river divided here into a great number of anabranches,
but all confined in the same valley, and united by intermediate channels.
The bed of it had again become sandy, with small pebbles of pegmatite and
quartz. Casuarinas were plentiful on its banks; the poplar-gum, and the
Moreton Bay ash on the adjacent flats; Tristania, with pubescent leaves
round some lagoons; narrow-leaved Ironbark, and poplar-gum grew on the
hills; and rich grass every where.
The night was clear, but the morning foggy, and the dew very heavy. The
wind was from the northward, and, as usual, very strong after sunset.
May 11.--We travelled four miles to the E.N.E. The anabranches of the
river continued; the ranges of quartz porphyry approached several times
close to the river. Oak trees and drooping Melaleucas grew abundantly in
its bed, and along the banks. Higher up we crossed fine flats with
lagoons and lakes covered as usual with Nymphaeas. We encamped in
latitude 18 degrees 32 minutes 37 seconds, after passing a Casuarina
creek, with high banks and a sandy bed. This creek separated the table
land from a broken low range of hills, composed of a coarse-grained
sandstone. The banks of the river here seemed to have been swept away; a
broad sheet of sand, covered with fine drooping tea trees, was slightly
furrowed by a narrow stream of water, which seemed for the greater part
filtering through the sands; chains of water-holes at its left side,
fringed with Casuarinas, appeared to be anabranches of the river, and to
be connected with the main stream during the rainy season.
I have to mention that a species of Sciadophyllum, nearly allied to Sc.
lucidum, (Don. iii. p. 390,) was found in the lava scrub of the valley of
lagoons: it was a small tree with large digitate leaves, each of them
composed of from eleven to thirteen oblong acuminate, glabrous leaflets,
which were about five inches long; and it attracted the attention of my
companions as much by its ornamental foliage as its numerous terminal
racemes of bright scarlet coloured flowers.
After having celebrated Whit-Sunday with a double allowance of fat cake
and sweetened tea, I started with Charley to reconnoitre the country to
the westward. Our friendly stream not only turned to the north, but
afterwards to north-east and east-north-east; and though I had not
succeeded in leaving it from Reedy Brook--not having been able to cross
the lava streams of the basaltic table land--I now concluded, from the
nature of the pebbles, and sands of the creek which we had crossed last,
that the basalts and lavas had ceased, and that a passage to the westward
would be practicable.
I followed the Casuarina Creek up to its head, and called it "Big
Ant-hill Creek," in consequence of numerous gigantic strangely buttressed
structures of the white ant, which I had never seen of such a form, and
of so large a size.
The general course of the creek was north-north-west: for the first ten
miles it was without water, but its middle and upper course was well
provided with fine reedy holes, the constant supply of water in which was
indicated by Nymphaeas, and other aquatic plants. At its left side near
the junction I observed, as before mentioned, a coarse grained sandstone,
and, at less than a mile higher up, I found flint rock; and, wherever I
examined afterwards, the rocks proved to be coarse grained granite and
pegmatite, the decomposition of which formed a sandy soil on the slopes,
and clayey flats along the creek. The latter, however, were very limited.
The ant-hills were intimately connected with the rock, as the ants
derived their materials for building from the minute particles of clay
among the sand. The primitive rock was cut with deep gullies and ravines,
and several tributary creeks joined Big Ant-hill Creek from the primitive
side. The basaltic table land, which extended all along the right side of
the creek, formed steep slopes into its valley, and were generally topped
with loose basaltic boulders. The table land was highest near the creek,
and its drainage was not towards the creek, but to the south-west, into
the valley of lagoons. White quartz rock was observed in a few places on
the right side of the creek, where the primitive rock seemed to encroach
into the territory of the basalt; and felspathic porphyry formed probably
a dyke in the pegmatite, but was most evidently broken by the basalt.
Where the upper part of the creek formed a shallow watercourse, and
turned altogether into the primitive formation, a plain came down from
the west-north-west with a shallow watercourse, which continued the
separation of the two formations; the right side of the plain being
basaltic, the soil of the Box and Ironbark forest loamy, with sharp
pieces of the rock; the left side being sandy, and covered with a very
pleasing poplar gum forest, in which the grotesque ant-hills were
exceedingly numerous. About two miles higher up the plain, separated into
several distinct plains, the largest of which was from twelve to fifteen
miles long, and from two to three miles broad, and came from Mount Lang;
another plain came from an isolated razorback hill, and a third continued
on the line of contact of the basaltic and primitive rocks. The upper
parts of the small creeks, which come down in these plains, were full of
water, and had their source generally between heaps of bare basaltic
rocks, surrounded by rich grass, and a scanty scrub of Pittosporum, of
the native mulberry, of the fig-tree, and of several vines, with
Polypodiums, Osmundas, and Caladiums growing between them.
Several other hills and mountains rose on the table land, generally with
open plains at their base. The greater part, however, was open forest,
principally of narrow-leaved Ironbark and Box, and occasionally
poplar-gum.
One locality was particularly striking: a great number of rocky basins
within the basalt, and surrounded by its black blocks, formed evidently
so many lagoons during the wet season, as sedges and Polygonums--always
inhabitants of constantly moist places--grew abundantly in most of them.
These basins were situated between low basaltic rises, along which narrow
flats frequently extended. The flooded gum-trees were fine and numerous,
and made me frequently believe that I was approaching a creek. I rode,
however, over eighteen miles of country to the westward without observing
the slightest watercourse. Long flats bounded by slight undulations
extended some to the northward, and others to the westward; but their
inclination was imperceptible. I passed some hills and plains; and
ascending one of the hills, I obtained a fine view. To the west by south
I saw other isolated mountains: the country to the westward was not
broken by any elevation; a fine long range was visible to the north-west.
It was now 3 o'clock P.M., and my Blackfellows had left me, as usual; my
horse was foot-sore, and neither the poor animal nor myself had tasted
water for the last thirty-six hours. Under these circumstances, though I
ardently desired to push on to the north-west ranges, I thought it
prudent to return; and after a short rest to my horse, during which I
chewed some dry pieces of beef, I rode on my way back until 9 o'clock,
and then encamped. The coldness of the night reminded me too strongly of
the pleasures of the fire and the heavy dew which had fallen, though a
comfort to my horse, rendered it difficult to light one; by dint of
patience, however, I succeeded, and then stretched myself, hungry and
thirsty as I was, by the side of a large Ironbark log; whilst my horse,
which I had hobbled and tethered, drooped his head over me, little
inclined either to feed or move. I started early in the morning of the
14th, and passed between Mount Lang and Razorback Hill. At the foot of
the latter I met a small creek, which I followed through a long series of
plains until I came on my old track, not very far from Big Ant-hill
Creek. At the sight of water, which we had been without full fifty hours,
my horse and I rushed simultaneously into it, and we drank, and drank,
and drank again, before I could induce myself to light a fire and make
some tea, which was always found to be much more wholesome, and to allay
thirst sooner than the water alone.
Near the large water-hole at which I halted, was an old camping place of
the natives, and the remnants of many a hut lay scattered round two large
flooded gum trees. The smoke of the natives fires was seen in every
direction. This part of the country is doubtless well supplied with
water-holes: but as they are unconnected with a watercourse, the
traveller, unless by accident, has little chance of finding them.
In returning along Ant-hill Creek, I passed a few native men sitting
before their gunyas; they were not a hundred yards from me, yet they
remained silent and motionless, like the black stumps of the trees around
them, until the strange apparition passed by. At sunset, just as I was
taking the saddle from my horse, I heard a cooee, and not considering it
prudent to encamp in the vicinity of the natives, I began to tighten up
the girths again; but, at the same time, answered the cooee, and soon
after I saw Master Charley and his wearied horse descending from the
opposite range. He had not had anything to eat since the morning of the
preceding day, and was therefore exceedingly pleased to meet me. He had
not been able to follow me, in consequence of the foot-soreness of his
horse, but he had succeeded in finding a small spring at the foot of
Mount Lang, near which the natives had often and recently encamped.
May 15.--We returned to our camp. The natives [These natives are probably
the same as, or are connected with, the tribe that frequent Rockingham
Bay, who have always been noticed for their friendly bearing in
communications with ships visiting that place. Rockingham Bay is situated
due east from the position of Dr. Leichhardt's party.--Note by Capt.
King.] had visited my companions, and behaved very amicably towards them,
making them not only presents of spears and wommalas, but supplying them
with seed-vessels of Nymphaea, and its mealy roasted stems and tubers,
which they were in the habit of pounding into a substance much resembling
mashed potatoes. They took leave of my companions to go to the sea-coast,
pointing to the east and east by south, whither they were going to fetch
shells, particularly the nautilus, of which they make various ornaments.
May 16 and 17.--We moved our camp about twenty miles N.N.W. to latitude
18 degrees 16 minutes 37 seconds, to one of the head brooks of Big
Ant-hill Creek. We travelled the whole distance over the basaltic
table-laud without any impediment. The natives approached our camp, but
retired without any communication.
I had not found any westerly waters on my ride of the 13th, but had seen
a range to the north-west, and that was the goal of a new exploration. As
we had been fortunate enough to find water at the contact of the
primitive and basaltic formation, I wished to follow the same line of
contact as long as it would not carry us much out of our course. We
crossed, in a northerly direction, several granitic ranges which ran out
into the table land, and were separated from each other by very large
swamps, at the time mostly dry, and covered with a short withered swamp
grass, but bearing the marks of frequent inundations. The bed of these
swamps was perfectly level, and formed by an uninterrupted sheet of
basalt. Chains of water-holes between the ranges, which I hoped would
lead me to creeks, were lost in the level of these swamps; indeed, these
granitic ranges were remarkably destitute of watercourses. The coarse
elements of the decomposed rock, principally pegmatite, had formed
uniform slopes, in which even heavy showers of rain were readily
absorbed; but rounded blocks of rock, sometimes curiously piled,
protruded from the granitic sands. Pandanus spiralis fringed the
scattered water-holes; and Grevillea chrysodendron, (R. Br.) formed a
wreath, of pale silver-colour, round the swamps, but grew on sandy soil.
White cranes, the ibis, geese, native companions, and plovers, were very
numerous; and the large ant-hills scattered through the forest at the
foot of the hills, looked like so many wigwams.
From one of the ranges I had another view of the north-west range, and we
started for it, leaving the primitive country behind us. A cold,
southerly wind set in on the morning of the 18th, which made Brown and
myself shiver, and I most gladly availed myself of a flannel shirt,
whilst Brown covered himself with his blanket. We rode about five hours
over an undulating forest land, interrupted by one or two plains, and for
the greater part exceedingly stony. We came at last to fresh burnt grass,
and observed recent marks of the stone tomahawk of the natives; and,
having passed a stony slope, with irregular low stony ridges, we saw an
oak-tree creek before us, on the opposite side of which rose the granitic
range for which we had directed our course. This creek also ran on the
line of contact of primitive and basaltic rocks; the primitive side was
cut by gullies and ravines, whilst the basalt formed a steep
uninterrupted slope, though covered with boulders which had been carried
down even into the sandy bed of the creek, where they were intermingled
with those of granite and pegmatite. I called this creek "Separation
Creek," in allusion to its geological relations: at the point where we
met it, it turned to the north and north-west, which made me believe that
it was a westerly water; but in this I was mistaken.
We had some slight showers of drizzling rain during the afternoon. The
wind veered towards evening to the northward, and the night was clear.
We saw several kangaroos, and their tracks to the water showed that they
were numerous. One of them, which we saw in the creek, was of a light
grey colour, with rich fur and a white tail.
May 19.--We returned to the camp. A cold easterly wind continued during
the day; low rainy clouds in the morning formed into heavy cumuli during
the afternoon.
My geological observations lead me to the conclusion, that an immense
valley between granitic ranges has here been filled by a more modern
basaltic eruption, which (supposing that Mount Lang is basaltic in the
centre of elevation) rose in peaks and isolated hills, but formed in
general a level table land. The basalt has been again broken by still
more recent fissures, through which streams of lava have risen and
expanded over the neighbouring rock.
May 20.--We moved our camp about eighteen miles N.N.W., to Separation
Creek, the latitude of which was 18 degrees 2 minutes 22 seconds.
John Murphy found Grevillea chrysodendron in blossom, the rich orange
colour of which excited general admiration. The stringy-bark tree, and
Tristania, were growing on the sandy soil, and the latter near
watercourses. Several native bustards (Otis Novae Hollandiae, GOULD.)
were shot, and I found their stomachs full of the seeds of Grewia, which
abounded in the open patches of forest ground. In crossing a plain we
observed, under the shade of a patch of narrow-leaved tea trees, four
bowers of the bowerbird, close together, as if one habitation was not
sufficient for the wanton bird to sport in; and on the dry swamps I
mentioned above, small companies of native companions were walking around
us at some distance, but rose with their sonorous cu-r-r-r-ring cry,
whenever Brown tried to approach them. [The natives of Argyle call the
cry of the native companion, Ku-ru-duc Ku-ru-duc; the natives of
Port Essington call the bird Ororr.--NOTE BY CAPT. KING]
May 21.--I went with Brown to reconnoitre the course of the creek, and to
ascertain whether it flowed to the westward. We soon found, however, that
it turned to the north and north-east, and that it was still an eastern
water. As far as I followed it down, it formed the separation between the
primitive rocks and the basalt, but received several creeks from the
westward. In riding along we heard the cooees of natives, and passed
several large camping places near the large water-holes of the creek. A
Blackfellow emerged suddenly from the creek, holding a Casuarina branch
in his hand, and pointing to the westward. We made a sign that we were
going down the creek, and that we had no intention of hurting him; the
poor fellow, however, was so frightened that he groaned and crouched down
in the grass. Wishing not to increase his alarm, we rode on. I followed
up one of the largest tributary creeks coming from the westward towards
its head; it was lined with Casuarinas and flooded-gum trees, like
Separation Creek, and came from an entirely granitic country, ridges and
ranges, with some high hills, bounding its valley on both sides; it soon
divided, however, into branches, and as one turned too much to the north
and the other to the south, I kept between them to the westward, and
passed over a hilly, broken, granitic country. Large blocks of granite
crested the summits of the hills, and their slopes were covered with
Acacia thickets, and arborescent Hakeas and Grevilleas. A dwarf Acacia,
with rhomboid downy phyllodia, an inch long, grew between the rocks. The
natives were busy on the hills, cutting out opossums and honey. We heard
their calls and the cries of their children. As we descended into another
valley, the whole slope was on fire; we passed through it, however, with
little difficulty. We crossed ridges after ridges, passed from one little
creek and watercourse to another, all of which turned to the northward.
At last, heartily tired, and almost despairing of attaining the object of
our search, viz., a western water, we came into a valley which went down
to the south-west; and, following it down, found that it joined a larger
one which went to the westward. A broad creek, with the drooping tea tree
and a sandy bed, gave us the promise of soon finding water; and,
following the tracks of numerous kangaroos and native dogs, we came to a
small pool. After passing over very rocky granitic hills, we came into a
more open country; the banks of the creek became reedy, and water was
more abundant, and at last a fine pool, surrounded by a rich belt of
reeds, was before us. Brown was fortunate enough to shoot two ducks; and,
as the sun was setting behind a neighbouring hill, we made our camp for
the night.
May 22.--We returned to our companions, and by taking a W.N.W. course, we
avoided all the ranges and gullies that we had crossed yesterday. At the
westerly creek I found a rose-coloured Sterculia, with large campanulate
blossoms and tomentose seed-vessels: the tree had lost all its foliage. I
had met with this species on the rocky ranges of Moreton Bay (at Mount
Brisbane), but there it was a low shrub, whereas in this place, and all
round the gulf of Carpentaria, it formed a middle sized tree with
spreading branches. A new Hakea, with long thin terete leaves (different
from H. lorea) and Grevillea chrysodendron, grew along the creek.
Grevillea ceratophylla (R. Br.) and another Grevillea, with a compound
terminal thyrsus, and long lanceolate falcate leaves, grew on the slopes,
in company with a Xylomelum, with smooth and smaller seed-vessels than
those of X. pyriforme. The rocky ridges were occupied by the
stringy-bark, fine Cypress-pine trees, the stunted silver-leaved
Ironbark, a Eucalyptus, with very scanty foliage, orange-coloured
blossoms, seed-vessels longitudinally ribbed, and as large as the egg of
a fowl; its butt was covered with a lamellar bark, but the upper part and
the branches were white and smooth; also by another Eucalyptus, with a
scaly butt like the Moreton Bay ash, but with smooth upper trunk and
cordate ovate leaves, which was also new to me; we called it the
Apple-gum. We frequently met with the grass tree (Xanthorrhaea.)
May 23.--We moved our camp to the westerly creek I had found the day
before, which with several others formed the heads of a river, flowing to
the N.W. I called this river the "Lynd," after R. Lynd, Esq., a gentleman
to whom I am under the greatest obligation, for his unmeasured liberality
and kindness enabled me to devote my time exclusively to the pursuits of
science and exploration.
The nights had been as usual very cold, and the dew very heavy. The
prevailing breeze was from the east, veering towards evening to the
north-east; during the morning a cold south-east wind. The rock was
primitive, granite and pegmatite in several varities, with a few
exceptions of anagenitic formation. Near the place of our first
encampment on the Lynd, in lat. 17 degrees 58 minutes, I observed a
sienite, to which the distribution of the hornblende in layers had given
the stratified appearance of gneiss. Another rock was composed of felspar
and large leaflets of white mica, or of quartz and white mica. The veins
which traversed these rocks were all of quartz, which, within the
pegmatite, enlarged into big masses and hills, particularly where
basaltic rock was near. Mr. Gilbert and Charley went down the creek to
find water and a practicable road, in case the country should prove
mountainous and rocky. I had a view from a small peak near our camp; the
country was full of ridges, but openly timbered, and I saw a low range to
the northward, trending from east to west.
May 24.--It was the Queen's birth-day, and we celebrated it with what--as
our only remaining luxury--we were accustomed to call a fat cake, made of
four pounds of flour and some suet, which we had saved for the express
purpose, and with a pot of sugared tea. We had for several months been
without sugar, with the exception of about ten pounds, which was reserved
for cases of illness and for festivals. So necessary does it appear to
human nature to interrupt the monotony of life by marked days, on which
we indulge in recollections of the past, or in meditations on the future,
that we all enjoyed those days as much, and even more, than when
surrounded with all the blessings of civilized society; although I am
free to admit, that fat-cake and sugared tea in prospectu might induce us
to watch with more eagerness for the approach of these days of feasting.
There were, besides, several other facts interesting to the psychologist,
which exhibited the influence of our solitary life, and the unity of our
purpose, on our minds. During the early part of our journey, I had been
carried back in my dreams to scenes of recent date, and into the society
of men with whom I had lived shortly before starting on my expedition. As
I proceeded on my journey, events of earlier date returned into my mind,
with all the fantastic associations of a dream; and scenes of England,
France, and Italy passed successively. Then came the recollections of my
University life, of my parents and the members of my family; and, at
last, the days of boyhood and of school--at one time as a boy afraid of
the look of the master, and now with the independent feelings of the man,
communicating to, and discussing with him the progress of my journey, the
courses of the rivers I had found, and the possible advantages of my
discoveries. At the latter part of the journey, I had, as it were,
retraced the whole course of my life, and I was now, in my dreams, almost
invariably in Sydney, canvassing for support, and imagining that,
although I had left my camp, yet that I should return with new resources
to carry us through the remainder of our journey. It was very remarkable,
that all my companions were almost invariably anticipating the end of our
journey, dreaming that they reached the sea-coast, and met with ships, or
that they were in Port Essington and enjoying the pleasures of civilized
life; whilst I, on awaking, found my party and my interests on the place
where I had left them in my dreams. During the leisure moments of the
day, or at the commencement of night, when seated at my fire, all my
thoughts seemed riveted to the progress and success of my journey, and to
the new objects we had met with during the day. I had then to compel
myself to think of absent friends and past times, and the thought that
they supposed me dead or unsuccessful in my enterprize, brought me back
immediately to my favourite object. Much, indeed the greater portion, of
my journey had been occupied in long reconnoitring rides; and he who is
thus occupied is in a continued state of excitement, now buoyant with
hope, as he urges on his horse towards some distant range or blue
mountain, or as he follows the favourable bend of a river; now all
despairing and miserable, as he approaches the foot of the range without
finding water from which he could start again with renewed strength, or
as the river turns in an unfavourable direction, and slips out of his
course. Evening approaches; the sun has sunk below the horizon for some
time, but still he strains his eye through the gloom for the dark verdure
of a creek, or strives to follow the arrow-like flight of a pigeon, the
flapping of whose wings has filled him with a sudden hope, from which he
relapses again into a still greater sadness; with a sickened heart he
drops his head to a broken and interrupted rest, whilst his horse is
standing hobbled at his side, unwilling from excessive thirst to feed on
the dry grass. How often have I found myself in these different states of
the brightest hope and the deepest misery, riding along, thirsty, almost
lifeless and ready to drop from my saddle with fatigue; the poor horse
tired like his rider, footsore, stumbling over every stone, running
heedlessly against the trees, and wounding my knees! But suddenly, the
note of Grallina Australis, the call of cockatoos, or the croaking of
frogs, is heard, and hopes are bright again; water is certainly at hand;
the spur is applied to the flank of the tired beast, which already
partakes in his rider's anticipations, and quickens his pace--and a
lagoon, a creek, or a river, is before him. The horse is soon unsaddled,
hobbled, and well washed; a fire is made, the teapot is put to the fire,
the meat is dressed, the enjoyment of the poor reconnoiterer is perfect,
and a prayer of thankfulness to the Almighty God who protects the
wanderer on his journey, bursts from his grateful lips.
May 25.--We travelled about eight miles down the Lynd. The country was
very mountainous; granitic and pegmatite ranges bounded the valley on
both sides.
May 26.--We continued our journey over the most mountainous and rocky
country we had ever passed. The ranges formed the banks of the river
itself, and even entered its bed, which gradually enlarged and was
frequently formed by several channels fringed with large drooping tea
trees. At the end of the stage, basalt was found to have broken through
the granite.
May 27.--The river turned more to the northward, and, joined by many
gullies, wound its way between wild and rocky, though low ranges. At a
place where it left a range of rugged little peaks, basalt re-appeared at
its banks, and extended for some distance, now filling flats with its
rough and cellular blocks and pebbles, and again forming small hillocks
of black bare rock. As soon, however, as the river had fairly left the
basaltic formation, fine large flats of a light sandy soil succeeded on
both sides; on which Pandanus spiralis grew in great abundance, and to a
larger size than we had seen before. The bed of the river became very
broad, and was covered with sands, shingle, and pebbles of the rocks of
its upper course. I passed through a broad rocky gap of a range tending
from east to west, and, at about two miles beyond and to the north-west
of it, we encamped, in lat. 17 degrees 54 minutes 40 seconds.
In passing this gap, on a previous reconnoitring ride with Brown, I met
with several natives with their wives and children, encamped at the north
entrance of it. When they saw us, the men poised their spears, and shook
their waddis to frighten us, but when, notwithstanding their menaces, we
approached them, they left all their goods, and with their weapons only
hurried up the rocks with wonderful agility. Three koolimans (vessels of
stringy bark) were full of honey water, from one of which I took a hearty
draught, and left a brass button for payment. Dillis, fish spears, a
roasted bandicoot, a species of potatoe, wax, a bundle of tea-tree bark
with dry shavings; several flints fastened with human hair to the ends of
sticks, and which are used as knives to cut their skin and food; a
spindle to make strings of opossum wool; and several other small
utensils, were in their camp. One of my Blackfellows found a fine
rock-crystal [Note at end of para.] in one of their bags, when we passed
the place next day with our bullocks. The poor people had evidently not
yet ventured to return. The natives we had formerly met, had generally
watched our movements from a distance, and had returned to their camp as
soon as we had fairly left it; but these seemed too much frightened; and
I should not be surprised to find that the mountainous nature of their
country had given them a greater share of superstition.
[Note: This shows how far the custom extends throughout the continent, of
considering the rock-crystal as sacred; whether it be that it has been
transmitted from tribe to tribe, or that the native was everywhere
inclined to pick up a shining stone, and to consider it endowed with
peculiar virtues. From the absence of brilliant ores, or precious stones,
in the bags and dillis of the natives, I concluded, that neither precious
stones nor brilliant metallic substances existed in the country where
they lived. Those with whom we came in contact, generally admired our
gold and silver chains and watches very much, but had nothing to show in
return except broken shells from the sea-coast]
Among the new and interesting scrubs and trees which we met with at
almost every step, I shall only mention a small Grevillea, from one to
two feet in height, with pubescent pinnatifid leaves, and a simple or
compound thyrsus of scarlet flowers; Cochlospermum gossypium, the native
cotton tree of Port Essington, whose bright showy yellow blossoms and
large capsules full of silky cotton, attracted our attention; its leaves
are deciduous, and the trees were entirely leafless; a fine species of
Calytrix on the rocks, and two of Loranthus on the drooping tea tree, the
drooping foliage of which one of them imitated, whilst the other belonged
to the group I mentioned as found at the Suttor, with its flowers
inserted on a leafy bract.
Exocarpus latifolius is so different from E. cupressiformis, in its
foliage and aspect, that I did not suspect their near relation, until I
found blossom and fruit: the ripe kernel as well as its yellow succulent
leaf-stalk have a very agreeable taste; a leguminous shrub, about five or
six feet high, with purple blossoms gathered into terminal oblong heads;
this would be an ornament to our gardens. Along the river we discovered a
large tree, about forty or fifty feet in height, with rather singularly
disposed horizontal branches and rich dark green foliage; its leaves were
oblong acute, and frequently a foot long; its flowers formed dense heads,
which grew into a fleshy body marked with the arcoles of every flower. It
is either Sarcocephalus or Zuccarinia, or nearly allied to them. The tree
has never been seen on easterly waters, but it was the invariable
companion of all the larger freshwater rivers round the gulf. A fine
species of Gomphrena was found in the sandy bed of the river. A species
of Terminalia, a fine shady tree, with spreading branches and broad
elliptical leaves, grew along the sandy creeks; and another smaller one
with Samara fruit preferred the rocky slopes. Both of these, and a third
species growing on the west side of the gulph, which I shall have to
mention hereafter, supplied us with fine eatable gum, and a fourth
species, with smooth leaves, had an eatable fruit of a purple colour.
The view I obtained from one of the hills near our yesterday's camp was
very characteristic. The country was broken by low ranges of various
extent, formed by exceedingly rocky hills and peaks, which lifted their
rugged crests above the open forest that covered their slopes. Heaps of
rocks with clusters of trees, particularly the smooth-leaved fig tree,
the rose-coloured Sterculia, Exocarpus latifolius, were scattered over
the slopes, or grew on the summits, to which they gave the resemblance of
the lifted crest of an irritated cockatoo, particularly when huge
fantastic blocks were striking out between the vegetation. As we
travelled along, ranges of hills of this character appeared one after
another; to which wallums and wallabies fled for security as we scared
them from the river's side; the rose-breasted cockatoo (Cocatua Eos,
GOULD.) visited the patches of fresh burnt grass, in large flocks;
bustards were numerous on the small flats between basaltic hillocks,
where they fed on the ripe fruit of Grewia.
On the evening of the 27th May, we killed one of our bullocks, which had
suffered more than any of the others by the journey, in consequence of
his having carried our ammunition, which had decreased comparatively
little, and the great weight of which had raised large lumps on his ribs,
which had formed into ulcers. We were very disagreeably disappointed in
not finding sufficient fat to fry the liver, which was our favourite
dish; even the fat of the marrow had disappeared and had left a watery
tissue, which, when grilled for some time, turned into a yellow
substance, having the taste of the fried yolk of an egg. We dried our
meat on the 28th, 29th, and 30th. I took a set of lunar sights, and
calculated my longitude 143 degrees 30 minutes.
May 31.--We had scarcely left, our camp, when swarms of crows and kites
(Milvus isiurus) took possession of it, after having given us a fair
fight during the previous days, whilst we were drying the meat. Their
boldness was indeed remarkable, and if the natives had as much, we should
soon have had to quit our camp. Proceeding, we travelled over a broken
and very stony country, with a stiff soil, but mixed with so much sand
that even the Severn tree grew well. There was another small tree, the
branches of which were thickly covered with bright green leaves; it had
round inferior fruit, about half an inch in diameter, which was full of
seeds: when ripe, it was slightly pulpy and acidulous, and reminded me of
the taste of the coarse German rye bread. In consequence of this
resemblance, we called this little tree the Bread tree of the Lynd. I ate
handfulls of this fruit without the slightest inconvenience. A species of
Pittosporum, and several Acacias, Pandanus, and the leguminous Ironbark,
were scattered through an open forest of Ironbark and lanceolate box. I
observed here a very ornamental little tree, with drooping branches and
linear lanceolate drooping leaves three inches long; it very much
resembled a species of Capparis that I had seen at the Isaacs. Its
blossoms are very small, and the calyx and corolla have each five
divisions; the stamens are opposite the petals; it bore a fruit like a
small apple, with a hard outside, but pulpy and many seeded within, like
Capparis; the calyx was attached to the base of the fruit.
The rock was still granitic, with small outbreaks of basalt; the leaflets
of white mica were visible everywhere in the soil and in the large
ant-hills, whose building materials were derived from the decomposed
felspar. The bed of the river was frequently rocky, and very broad, with
low banks and no water. The highest flood-marks we observed were from six
to eight feet above the level of the bed; these marks were on the trunks
of Casuarinas, Melaleucas, and flooded-gum, which grew along the channel.
The country in general had a winterly appearance; and the grass round the
camp was dry, but I observed the fine grass of the Isaacs, and many
varieties which grow on the Suttor and Burdekin, which will yield an
excellent feed in the proper season; and, even at the present, neither
our bullocks nor horses were starving.
The part of the country in which we were, possesses great interest in a
meteorological point of view. In the centre of the York Peninsula,
between the east coast and the gulf, and on the slopes to the latter, as
might be expected, the northerly and easterly winds which set in so
regularly after sunset, as well along the Burdekin as on the basaltic
table land, failed, and were succeeded here by slight westerly and
easterly breezes, without any great and decided movement in the
atmosphere; and westerly winds, which had formerly been of rare
occurrence, became more frequent and stronger. The days, from the
stillness of the air, were very hot; but at night the dews were heavy,
and it was very cold. Charley asserted that he had seen ice at our last
camp.
The black cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus Banksii) has been much more
frequently observed of late.
We used the last of our salt at the last camp; and what we should do
without it, was a question of considerable interest. As I had never taken
salt with me in my reconnoitring expeditions, and had never felt the want
of it with dried beef, either grilled or raw, I recommended my companions
to eat their meat in the same state; and, in fact, good dry beef, without
any farther preparation, was much relished by all of us: for, when
grilled, it became ashy and burnt, particularly when without fat; and, if
stewed, although it yielded a good broth, it became tough and tasteless.
The meat of the last bullock was very hard and juiceless, and something
was to be done to soften it, and make it palatable: as we had no fat, we
frequently steamed it with water, but this rendered it tough, without
facilitating in the least the mastication; and its fibres, entering
between our teeth, rendered them exceedingly tender, and caused us much
pain. After a week's trial, and several experiments, we returned to our
former practice of stewing it, and in a very short time relished it as
much without salt, as we had formerly done with it.