Produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.org.au
Production notes: Footnotes inserted in square brackets [] at point
where referenced, or at end of paragraph.
Plates (illustrations) not included. A list of plates
is given at end of Table of Contents.
**************************************************************************
Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia: From Moreton Bay
to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during
the years 1844-1845
by Ludwig Leichhardt
"Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann
Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde"
GOETHE, Iph. auf Tauris.
To
WILLIAM ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, ESQ., M.D. of Bristol;
To
ROBERT LYND, ESQ. OF SYDNEY
And to
THE GENEROUS PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES
This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated,
By
The Author
PREFACE
In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest
obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches
have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not
only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which
will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of
obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his
surveys of the coasts parallel to my track.
To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted
for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall
ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous
attention with which he listened to the details of my journey.
From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has
evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every
assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give.
I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to
these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on
this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough
to take in the success of my approaching enterprise.
LUDWIG LEICHIJARDT.
SYDNEY,
September 29th, 1846.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I LEAVE THE LAST STATION--FOSSIL REMAINS--DARLING DOWNS--ENTER
THE WILDERNESS--WATERLOO PLAINS--THE CONDAMINE--HEAVY
RAINS--CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT--MURPHY AND CALEB LOST--KENT'S
LAGOON--COAL--MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.
CHAPTER II PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB--MEET
FRIENDLY NATIVES--NATIVE TOMB--THE DAWSON--VERVAIN
PLAINS--GILBERT'S RANGE--LYND'S RANGE--ROBINSON'S
CREEK--MURPHY'S LAKE--MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY--EXPEDITION
RANGE--MOUNT NICHOLSON--ALDIS'S PEAK--THE BOYD.
CHAPTER III RUINED CASTLE CREEK--ZAMIA CREEK--BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE
OF FLOUR REDUCED--NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE--CHRISTMAS
RANGES--BROWN'S LAGOONS--THUNDER-STORMS--ALBINIA DOWNS--COMET
CREEK--NATIVE CAMP.
CHAPTER IV SWARMS OF COCKATOOS--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER
REDUCED--NATIVE FAMILY--THE MACKENZIE--COAL--NATIVES SPEAKING
A DIFFERENT IDIOM--MOUNT STEWART--BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE
WAY BACK TO THE CAMP--FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH
DAY--NEUMAN'S CREEK--ROPER'S PEAK--CALVERT'S PEAK--GILBERT'S
DOME--GREAT WANT OF WATER.
CHAPTER V DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE--PHILLIPS'S
MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN--HUGHS'S
CREEK--TOMBSTONE CREEK--CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY--THE
ISAACS--NATIVE WOMEN--COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE--GEOLOGICAL
CHARACTER--CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES--BROWN FOLLOWS
HIM--BOTH RETURN PENITENT--VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER--SKULL
OF NATIVE--FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.
CHAPTER VI HEADS OF THE ISAACS--THE SUTTOR--FLINT-ROCK--INDICATIONS OF
WATER--DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US--EASTER
SUNDAY--ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN--NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE
ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN--A BARTER WITH
THEM--MOUNT M'CONNEL.
CHAPTER VII THE BURDEKIN--TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE
ROCKS--THACKER'S RANGE--WILD FIGS--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS--THE
CLARKE--THE PERRY.
CHAPTER VIII BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL--NIGHT WATCH--ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY
LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY--MOUNT
LANG--STREAMS OF LAVA--A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND
EATEN--NATIVE TRIBE--MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT--WHITSUNDAY--BIG
ANT HILL CREEK--DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--SEPARATION CREEK--THE LYND--PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS
OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS--NATIVE CAMP--SALT EXHAUSTED.
CHAPTER IX THE STARRY HEAVENS--SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE--SAWFISH--
TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES--THE MITCHELL--MURPHY'S
PONY POISONED--GREEN TREE-ANT--NEW BEVERAGE--CROCODILE--
AUDACITY OF KITES--NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY--THE CAMP ATTACKED
AT NIGHT BY THEM--MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED,
AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.
CHAPTER X INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA--NATIVES MUCH
MORE NUMEROUS--THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA--THE
STAATEN--A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP--THE VAN DIEMEN--THE
GILBERT--SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS--CARON RIVER--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--THE YAPPAR--MR. CALVERT RECOVERED--MODE OF
ENCAMPMENT--SWARMS OF FLIES--ABUNDANCE OF SALT--NATIVES
FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.
CHAPTER XI SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES--NATIVE
CARVING--AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED--THE ALBERT, OR
MAET SUYKER--NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU--
BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT--NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING
EMUS--BEAMES'S BROOK--THE NICHOLSON--RECONNOITRE BY
NIGHT--SMITH'S CREEK--THE MARLOW.
CHAPTER XII HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS--FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE
CAMP--TURNER'S CREEK--WENTWORTH'S CREEK--JOURNALS LOST; FOUND
AGAIN--THE VAN ALPHEN--IMPORTANCE OF TEA--CHOICE OF BULLOCKS
FOR AN EXPEDITION--CHOICE OF A DOG--THE CALVERT--THE ABEL
TASMAN--GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN--DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE
FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS--SEVEN EMU RIVER--CROCODILE--THE
ROBINSON--SHOAL OF PORPOISES--NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE
FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD--MR. ROPER
CONVALESCENT--WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES--SUCCEED IN DRESSING
THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA--THE MACARTHUR--FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH
CIRCUMCISED NATIVES--STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED--MEDICAL PROPERTY
OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.
CHAPTER XIII CAPE MARIA--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF
NATURAL HISTORY--LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER--HABITS OF WATER
BIRDS--NATIVE FISH TRAP--THE FOUR ARCHERS--THE WICKHAM--THE
DOG DIES--IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE--THE ROPER--THREE
HORSES DROWNED--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL
COLLECTION--MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES,
CIRCUMCISED--HODGSON'S CREEK--THE WILTON--ANOTHER HORSE
DROWNED--ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE--AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP
FRUSTRATED--BOILS--BASALT AGAIN--INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE
SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.
CHAPTER XIV INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE--DISTRESSING HEAT--A HORSE STAKED: IT
DIES--MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES--MAGNIFICENT VALLEY--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--SHOT EXHAUSTED--INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS--SOUTH
ALLIGATOR RIVER--FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH
HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS--THEIR
LANGUAGE--MIRAGE.
CHAPTER XV JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH--THEY ARE VERY
FRIENDLY--ALLAMURR--DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY--EAST
ALLIGATOR RIVER--CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE--
IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY--NATIVES STILL
MORE INTELLIGENT--NYUALL--BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY
SPRUNG--NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US--MOUNT
MORRIS BAY--RAFFLES BAY--LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK
BEHIND--BILL WHITE--ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON--VOYAGE
TO SYDNEY.
APPENDIX
LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT
THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL
* * * * *
LIST OF PLATES (Not included in this etext)
Lagoon near South Alligator River
Portraits of "Charley" and "Harry Brown"
Mount Nicholson, Expedition Range, etc.
Peak Range
Red Mountain
Fletcher's Awl, etc.
Campbell's Peak
Mount M'Connel.
Ranges seen from a granitic hill between second and third camp
at the Burdekin
Robey's Range
Grasshopper
View near South Alligator River
Victoria Square, Port Essington
INTRODUCTION
ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION--PARTY FORMED--LEAVE SYDNEY FOR BRISBANE--PARTY
ENLARGED--OUTFIT AND STORES.
On my return to Moreton Bay, from an exploratory journey in the country
northward of that district, which had occupied me for two years, I found
that the subject of an overland expedition to Port Essington on the North
Coast of Australia, was occupying much attention, as well on the part of
the public as on that of the Legislative Council, which had earnestly
recommended the appropriation of a sum of money to the amount of 1000
pounds, for the equipment of an expedition under Sir Thomas Mitchell, to
accomplish this highly interesting object. Some delay was, however,
caused by the necessity of communicating with the Secretary of State for
the Colonies; and in the mean time it was understood that Captain Sturt
was preparing to start from Adelaide to proceed across the Continent.
From the experience which I had gained during my two years' journeyings,
both in surmounting the difficulties of travelling through a broken
mountainous country, and in enduring privations of every sort, "I was
inspired with the desire of attempting it," provided I could be assisted
in the expense that would necessarily be incurred for the outfit, and
could find a few companions who would be contented with animal food, and
willingly and patiently submit to the privation of flour, tea, and sugar,
and resign themselves to my guidance.
I had well considered this interesting subject in all its bearings, and
had discussed it with many of my acquaintances at Brisbane and its
neighbouring district; who were generally of opinion that it was
practicable, under the plan I had marked out: but with others,
particularly at Sydney, I had to contend against a strong but kindly
meant opposition to my journey. Some, who took more than a common
interest in my pursuits, regretted that I should leave so promising a
field of research as that which offered itself within the limits of New
South Wales, and in which they considered I had laboured with some
success during the last two years. Others considered the undertaking
exceedingly dangerous, and even the conception of it madness on my part;
and the consequence of a blind enthusiasm, nourished either by a deep
devotion to science, or by an unreasonable craving for fame: whilst
others did not feel themselves justified in assisting a man who they
considered was setting out with an intention of committing suicide. I was
not, however, blind as to the difficulties of the journey which I was
determined to undertake; on the contrary, and I hope my readers will
believe me to be sincere, I thought they would be many and great--greater
indeed than they eventually proved to be; but, during my recent
excursions through the Squatting districts, I had so accustomed myself to
a comparatively wild life, and had so closely observed the habits of the
aborigines, that I felt assured that the only real difficulties which I
could meet with would be of a local character. And I was satisfied that,
by cautiously proceeding, and always reconnoitring in advance or on
either side of our course, I should be able to conduct my party through a
grassy and well watered route; and, if I were so fortunate as to effect
this, I felt assured that the journey, once commenced, would be finished
only by our arrival at Port Essington. Buoyed up by this feeling, and by
confidence in myself, I prevailed against the solicitations and arguments
of my friends, and commenced my preparations, which, so far as my own
slender means and the contributions of kind friends allowed, were rather
hurriedly completed by the 13th August, 1844.
As our movements were to be comparatively in light marching order, our
preparations were confined more to such provisions and stores as were
actually necessary, than to anything else. But I had frequently reason to
regret that I was not better furnished with instruments, particularly
Barometers, or a boiling water apparatus, to ascertain the elevation of
the country and ranges we had to travel over. The only instruments which
I carried, were a Sextant and Artificial Horizon, a Chronometer, a hand
Kater's Compass, a small Thermometer, and Arrowsmith's Map of the
Continent of New Holland.
In arranging the plan of my journey I had limited my party to six
individuals; and although many young men volunteered their services, I
was obliged to decline their offers, and confine myself to the stated
number, as it was intimately connected with the principles and the means
on which I started.
On leaving Sydney, my companions consisted of Mr. James Calvert; Mr. John
Roper; John Murphy, a lad of about 16 years old: of William Phillips, a
prisoner of the Crown; and of "Harry Brown," an aboriginal of the
Newcastle tribe: making with myself six individuals.
We left Sydney, on the night of the 13th August, for Moreton Bay, in the
steamer "Sovereign," Captain Cape; and I have much pleasure in recording
and thankfully acknowledging the liberality and disinterested kindness of
the Hunter's River Steam Navigation Company, in allowing me a free
passage for my party with our luggage and thirteen horses. The passage
was unusually long, and, instead of arriving at Brisbane in three days,
we were at sea a week, so that my horses suffered much for food and
water, and became discouragingly poor. On arriving at Brisbane, we were
received with the greatest kindness by my friends the "Squatters," a
class principally composed of young men of good education, gentlemanly
habits, and high principles, and whose unbounded hospitality and friendly
assistance I had previously experienced during my former travels through
the district. These gentlemen and the inhabitants of Brisbane overloaded
me with kind contributions, much of which, however, to avoid any
unnecessary increase to my luggage, I found myself compelled to decline
or leave behind; so that I had to forego the advantage of many useful and
desirable articles, from their being too cumbersome for my limited means
of carriage, and therefore interfering with the arrangements for my
undertaking.
My means, however, had since my arrival been so much increased, that I
was after much reluctance prevailed upon to make one change,--to increase
my party; and the following persons were added to the expedition:--Mr.
Pemberton Hodgson, a resident of the district; Mr. Gilbert; Caleb, an
American negro; and "Charley," an aboriginal native of the Bathurst
tribe. Mr. Hodgson was so desirous of accompanying me that, in
consideration of former obligations, I could not refuse him, and, as he
was fond of Botanical pursuits, I thought he might be useful. Of Mr.
Gilbert I knew nothing; he was in the service of Mr. Gould, the talented
Zoologist who has added so much to our knowledge of the Fauna of
Australia, and expressed himself so anxious for an opportunity of making
important observations as to the limits of the habitat of the Eastern
Coast Birds, and also where those of the North Coast commence; as well as
of discovering forms new to Science during the progress of the journey,
that, from a desire to render all the service in my power to Natural
History, I found myself obliged to yield to his solicitations, although
for some time I was opposed to his wish. These gentlemen equipped
themselves, and added four horses and two bullocks to those already
provided.
Perhaps, of all the difficulties I afterwards encountered, none were of
so much real annoyance as those we experienced at first starting from
Brisbane. Much rain had fallen, which filled the creeks and set them
running, and made the road so boggy and soft as to render them almost
impassable. It took us the whole day to transport our party, cattle, and
provisions over the river, and the operation was not concluded before
sunset; but, as it was a fine moonlight night, I determined to start,
however short my first stage might be. Fortunately, my friends had lent
me a bullock dray to convey a portion of our stores as far as Darling
Downs; but, having purchased a light spring cart, it was also loaded;
and, flattering myself that we should proceed comfortably and rapidly, I
gave orders to march. After much continued difficulty in urging and
assisting our horses to drag the cart through the boggy road, we arrived,
at about one o'clock in the morning, at Cowper's Plains, about ten miles
from Brisbane.
I now found my cart an impediment to our movements; but, as it had been
an expensive article, I did not despair of its becoming more useful after
passing the boggy country. A few days afterwards, however, an accident
settled the question; the horses ran away with it, and thereby the shaft
was broken, and the spring injured, so that I was compelled to leave it;
which I then did most cheerfully, as it is always easier to man to yield
to necessity, than to adopt an apparently inconvenient measure by his own
free will. The load was removed to pack-horses, and we proceeded with
comparative ease to Mr. Campbell's station, enjoying the hospitality of
the settlers as we passed on, and carrying with us their best wishes.
I was fortunate in exchanging my broken cart for three good travelling
bullocks, and afterwards purchased five draft-bullocks, which we
commenced to break in for the pack-saddle; for I had by this time
satisfied myself that we could not depend upon the horses for carrying
our load. Neither my companions nor myself knew much about bullocks, and
it was a long time before we were reconciled to the dangerous vicinity of
their horns. By means, however, of iron nose-rings with ropes attached,
we obtained a tolerable command over their movements; and, at last, by
dint of habit, soon became familiar with, and even got attached to, our
blunt and often refractory COMPAGNONS DE VOYAGE.
By a present from Messieurs Campbell and Stephens of four young steers
and one old bullock, and of a fat bullock from Mr. Isaacs, our stock of
cattle consisted now of 16 head: of horses we had 17: and our party
consisted of ten individuals. Of provisions--we had 1200 lbs. of flour:
200 lbs. of sugar: 80 lbs. of tea: 20 lbs. of gelatine: and other
articles of less consideration, but adding much to our comfort during the
first few weeks of our journey. Of ammunition--we had about 30 pounds of
powder, and 8 bags of shot of different sizes, chiefly of No. 4 and No.
6. Every one, at my desire, had provided himself with two pair of strong
trowsers, three strong shirts, and two pair of shoes; and I may further
remark that some of us were provided with Ponchos, made of light strong
calico, saturated with oil, which proved very useful to us by keeping out
the wet, and made us independent of the weather; so that we were well
provided for seven months, which I was sanguine enough to think would be
a sufficient time for our journey. The result proved that our
calculations, as to the provisions, were very nearly correct; for even
our flour, much of which was destroyed by accident, lasted to the end of
May, the eighth month of our journey; but, as to the time it occupied, we
were very much deceived.
Our riding-saddles and pack-saddles were made of good materials, but they
were not fitted to the horses' backs, which caused a constant
inconvenience, and which would not have happened, had my means allowed me
to go to a greater expense. So long as we had spare horses, to allow
those with sore backs to recover, we did not suffer by it: but when we
were compelled to ride the same horses without intermission, it exposed
us to great misery and even danger, as well as the risk of losing our
provisions and stores. Our pack-saddles had consequently to be altered to
the dimensions of the bullocks; and, having to use the new ones for
breaking in, they were much injured, even before we left Mr. Campbell's
to commence our journey. The statements of what a bullock was able to
carry were very contradictory; but in putting 250 lbs. upon them the
animals were overloaded; and my experience has since shown me that they
cannot, continually day after day, carry more than 150 lbs. for any
distance. The difficulties which we met with for the first three weeks,
were indeed very trying:--the loading of bullocks and horses took
generally two hours; and the slightest accident, or the cargo getting
loose during the day's journey, frequently caused the bullocks to upset
their loads and break the straps, and gave us great trouble even in
catching them again:--at night, too, if we gave them the slightest
chance, they would invariably stray back to the previous camp; and we had
frequently to wait until noon before Charley and Brown, who generally
performed the office of herdsman in turns, recovered the ramblers. The
consequences were that we could proceed only very slowly, and that, for
several months, we had to keep a careful watch upon them throughout the
night. The horses, with some few exceptions, caused us less trouble at
the commencement of our journey than afterwards, when our hobbles were
worn out and lost, and, with the exception of one or two which in turns
were tethered in the neighbourhood of the camp in order to prevent the
others from straying, they were necessarily allowed to feed at large. It
may readily be imagined that my anxiety to secure our horses was very
great, because the loss of them would have put an immediate stop to my
undertaking.--But I hasten to enter on the narrative of our journey.
CHAPTER I
LEAVE THE LAST STATION--FOSSIL REMAINS--DARLING DOWNS--ENTER THE
WILDERNESS--WATERLOO PLAINS--THE CONDAMINE--HEAVY RAINS--CHARLEY'S
MISCONDUCT--MURPHY AND CALEB LOST--KENT'S LAGOON--COAL--MURPHY AND CALEB
FOUND AGAIN.
It was at the end of September, 1844, when we completed the necessary
preparations for our journey, and left the station of Messrs. Campbell
and Stephens, moving slowly towards the farthest point on which the white
man has established himself. We passed the stations of Messrs. Hughs and
Isaacs and of Mr. Coxen, and arrived on the 30th September, at Jimba,
[It is almost always written Fimba, in the Journal; but I have corrected
it to Jimba.--(ED.)] where we were to bid farewell to civilization.
These stations are established on creeks which come down from the western
slopes of the Coast Range--here extending in a north and south
direction--and meander through plains of more or less extent to join the
Condamine River; which--also rising in the Coast Range, where the latter
expands into the table-land of New England--sweeps round to the
northward, and, flowing parallel to the Coast Range, receives the whole
drainage from the country to the westward of the range. The Condamine
forms, for a great distance, the separation of the sandstone country to
the westward, from the rich basaltic plains to the eastward. These
plains, so famous for the richness of their pasture, and for the
excellency of the sheep and cattle depastured upon them, have become
equally remarkable as the depositaries of the remains of extinct species
of animals, several of which must have been of a gigantic size, being the
Marsupial representatives of the Pachydermal order of other continents.
Mr. Isaacs' station is particularly rich in these fossil remains; and
they have been likewise found in the beds and banks of Mr. Hodgson's and
of Mr. Campbell's Creeks, and also of Oaky Creek. At Isaacs' Creek, they
occur together with recent freshwater shells of species still living in
the neighbouring ponds, and with marly and calcareous concretions; which
induces me to suppose that these plains were covered with large sheets of
water, fed probably by calcareous springs connected with the basaltic
range, and that huge animals, fond of water, were living, either on the
rich herbage surrounding these ponds or lakes, or browsing upon the
leaves and branches of trees forming thick brushes on the slopes of the
neighbouring hills. The rise of the country, which is very generally
supposed to have taken place, was probably the cause of the disappearance
of the water, and of the animals becoming extinct, when its necessary
supply ceased to exist. Similar remains have been found in Wellington
Valley, and in the Port Phillip District, where, probably, similar
changes have taken place.
The elevation of Darling Downs--about 1800 to 2000 feet, according to the
barometrical observations of Mr. Cunningham--renders the climate much
cooler than its latitude would lead one to suppose; indeed, ice has
frequently been found, during the calm clear nights of winter. During
September and October, we observed at sunrise an almost perfect calm.
About nine o'clock, light westerly winds set in, which increased towards
noon, died away towards evening, and after sunset, were succeeded by
light easterly breezes; thunder-storms rose from south and south-west,
and passed over with a violent gust of wind and heavy showers of rain;
frequently, in half an hour's time, the sky was entirely clear again;
sometimes, however, the night and following day were cloudy.
The plains, as we passed, were covered with the most luxuriant grass and
herbage. Plants of the leguminosae and compositae, were by far the most
prevalent; the colour of the former, generally a showy red, that of the
latter, a bright yellow. Belts of open forest land, principally composed
of the Box-tree of the Colonists (a species of Eucalyptus), separate the
different plains; and patches of scrub, consisting of several species of
Acacias, and of a variety of small trees, appear to be the outposts of
the extensive scrubs of the interior. There are particularly three
species of Acacias, which bestow a peculiar character on these scrubs:
the one is the Myal (A. pendula)--first seen by Oxley on Liverpool
Plains, and afterwards at the Barwan, and which exists in all the western
plains between the Barwan and Darling Downs--whose drooping foliage and
rich yellow blossoms render it extremely elegant and ornamental. The
second, the Acacia of Coxen, resembles the Myal (without its drooping
character), its narrow lanceolate phyllodia rather stiff, its yellowish
branches erect. The third, is the Bricklow Acacia, which seems to be
identical with the Rose-wood Acacia of Moreton Bay; the latter, however,
is a fine tree, 50 to 60 feet high, whereas the former is either a small
tree or a shrub. I could not satisfactorily ascertain the origin of the
word Bricklow [Brigaloe, GOULD.], but, as it is well understood and
generally adopted by all the squatters between the Severn River and
the Boyne, I shall make use of the name. Its long, slightly falcate
leaves, being of a silvery green colour, give a peculiar character to
the forest, where the tree abounds.
Oct. 1.--After having repaired some harness, which had been broken by our
refractory bullocks upsetting their loads, and after my companions had
completed their arrangements, in which Mr. Bell kindly assisted, we left
Jimba, and launched, buoyant with hope, into the wilderness of Australia.
Many a man's heart would have thrilled like our own, had he seen us
winding our way round the first rise beyond the station, with a full
chorus of "God Save the Queen," which has inspired many a British
soldier,--aye, and many a Prussian too--with courage in the time of
danger. Scarcely a mile from Jimba we crossed Jimba Creek, and travelled
over Waterloo Plains, in a N. W. direction, about eight miles, where we
made our first camp at a chain of ponds. Isolated cones and ridges were
seen to the N. E., and Craig Range to the eastward: the plains were
without trees, richly grassed, of a black soil with frequent concretions
of a marly and calcareous nature. Charley gave a proof of his wonderful
power of sight, by finding every strap of a pack-saddle, that had been
broken, in the high grass of Waterloo Plains.
Oct. 2.--Bullocks astray, but found at last by Charley; and a start
attempted at 1 o'clock; the greater part of the bullocks with sore backs:
the native tobacco in blossom. One of the bullocks broke his pack-saddle,
and compelled us to halt.
Oct. 3.--Rise at five o'clock, and start at half-past nine; small plains
alternate with a flat forest country, slightly timbered; melon-holes;
marly concretions, a stiff clayey soil, beautifully grassed: the
prevailing timber trees are Bastard box, the Moreton Bay ash, and the
Flooded Gum. After travelling seven miles, in a north-west direction, we
came on a dense Myal scrub, skirted by a chain of shallow water-holes.
The scrub trending towards, and disappearing in, the S. W.: the Loranthus
and the Myal in immense bushes; Casuarina frequent. In the forest,
Ranunculus inundatus; Eryngium with terete simple leaves, of which the
horses are fond; Prasophyllum elatum, sweetly scented. A new composite
with white blossoms, the rays narrow and numerous. Sky clear; cumuli to
the S. W.; wind from the westward. Ridges visible to the N.N.E. and N.E.
At the outskirts of the scrub, the short-tailed sleeping lizard with
knobby scales was frequent: one of them contained six eggs. We camped
outside of the scrub, surrounded by small tufts of the Bricklow Acacia.
Droves of kangaroos entered the scrub; their foot-paths crossed the
forest in every direction.
The thermometer, before and at sunrise, 32 degrees; so cold that I could
not work with my knife, away from the fire. At sunset, a thick gathering
of clouds to the westward.
Oct. 4.--Cloudy sky; thermometer 50 degrees at sunrise; little dew; 64
degrees at eight o'clock.
We travelled about eleven miles in a S. W. and S. S. W. direction,
skirting the scrub. During the journey, two thunder-storms passed over;
one to the southward beyond the Condamine, the other to the north and
north-east over the mountains. The scrub is a dense mass of vegetation,
with a well defined outline--a dark body of foliage, without grass, with
many broken branches and trees; no traces of water, or of a rush of
waters. More to the southward, the outline of the scrub becomes less
defined, and small patches are seen here and there in the forest. The
forest is open and well timbered; but the trees are rather small. A chain
of lagoons from E. by N.--W. by S.; large flooded gum-trees (but no
casuarinas) at the low banks of the lagoons. The presence of many
fresh-water muscles (Unio) shows that the water is constant, at least in
ordinary seasons.
The scrub opens more and more; a beautiful country with Bricklow groves,
and a white Vitex in full blossom. The flats most richly adorned by
flowers of a great variety of colours: the yellow Senecios, scarlet
Vetches, the large Xeranthemums, several species of Gnaphalium, white
Anthemis-like compositae: the soil is a stiff clay with concretions:
melon-holes with rushes; the lagoons with reeds.
At night, a thunder-storm from south-west. Our dogs caught a female
kangaroo with a young one in its pouch, and a kangaroo rat.
Oct. 5.--We followed the chain of lagoons for about seven miles, in a
west by south direction; the country to our right was most beautiful,
presenting detached Bricklow groves, with the Myal, and with the Vitex in
full bloom, surrounded by lawns of the richest grass and herbage; the
partridge pigeon (Geophaps scripta) abounded in the Acacia groves; the
note of the Wonga Wonga (Leucosarcia picata, GOULD.) was heard; and ducks
and two pelicans were seen on the lagoons. Blackfellows had been here a
short time ago: large unio shells were abundant; the bones of the
codfish, and the shield of the fresh-water turtle, showed that they did
not want food. A small orange tree, about 5-8 minutes high, grows either
socially or scattered in the open scrub, and a leafless shrub, belonging
to the Santalaceae, grows in oblong detached low thickets.
Chenopodiaceous plants are always frequent where the Myal grows. The
latitude of our camp was 26 degrees 56 minutes 11 seconds.
Oct. 6.--Was fully occupied with mending our packsaddles and straps,
broken by the bullocks in throwing off their loads.
Oct. 7.--In following the chain of lagoons to the westward, we came,
after a few miles travelling, to the Condamine, which flows to the
north-west: it has a broad, very irregular bed, and was, at the time,
well provided with water--a sluggish stream, of a yellowish muddy colour,
occasionally accompanied by reeds. We passed several gullies and a creek
from the northward, slightly running.
The forest on the right side of the river was tolerably open, though
patches of Myal scrub several times exposed us to great inconvenience;
the left bank of the Condamine, as much as we could see of it, was a fine
well grassed open forest. Conglomerate and sandstone cropped out in
several sections. Mosquitoes and sandflies were very trouble-some. I
found a species of snail nearly resembling Succinea, in the fissures of
the bark of the Myal, on the Box, and in the moist grass. The
muscle-shells are of immense size. The well-known tracks of Blackfellows
are everywhere visible; such as trees recently stripped of their bark,
the swellings of the apple-tree cut off to make vessels for carrying
water, honey cut out, and fresh steps cut in the trees to climb for
opossums. Our latitude was 26 degrees 49 minutes. The thermometer was
41 1/2 at sunrise; but in the shade, between 12 and 2 o'clock, it stood at
80 degrees, and the heat was very great, though a gentle breeze and
passing clouds mitigated the power of the scorching sun.
Oct. 8.--During the night, we had a tremendous thunder-storm, with much
thunder and lightning from the west. The river was very winding, so that
we did not advance more than 7 or 8 miles W.N.W.; the Bricklow scrub
compelled us frequently to travel upon the flood-bed of the river. Fine
grassy forest-land intervened between the Bricklow and Myal scrubs; the
latter is always more open than the former, and the soil is of a rich
black concretionary character. The soil of the Bricklow scrub is a stiff
clay, washed out by the rains into shallow holes, well known by the
squatters under the name of melon-holes; the composing rock of the low
ridges was a clayey sandstone (Psammite). Sky cloudy; wind north-east;
thermometer 80 degrees at 2 o'clock; the sunshine plant (Mimosa
terminalis) was frequent on the black soil; a Swainsonia; an Anthericum,
with allium leaf and fine large yellow blossoms; and another species with
small blossoms, (Stypandra).
Oct. 9.--Commenced with cloudy weather, threatening rain. It cleared up,
however, about 10 o'clock, and we had a very warm day. We followed the
course of the river for some time, which is fringed with Myal scrubs,
separated by hills with fine open forest. Finding that the river trended
so considerably to the northward [It seems that NORTHWARD here is merely
miswritten for WESTWARD.--(ED.)], we left it at a westerly bend, hoping
to make it again in a north-west direction. Thus, we continued travelling
through a beautiful undulating country, until arrested by a Bricklow
scrub, which turned us to the south-west; after having skirted it, we
were enabled to resume our course to W.N.W., until the decline of day
made me look for water to the south-west. The scrubs were awful, and
threatened to surround us; but we succeeded in finding a fine large
lagoon, probably filled by the drainage of the almost level country to
the north-east. No water-course, not the slightest channel produced by
heavy rains, was visible to indicate the flow of waters. Occasionally we
met with swampy ground, covered with reeds, and with some standing water
of the last rains; the ground was so rotten, that the horses and bullocks
sunk into it over the fetlocks. The principal timber trees here, are the
bastard box, the flooded-gum, and the Moreton Bay ash; in the Myal scrub,
Coxen's Acacia attains a very considerable size; we saw also some
Ironbark trees.
The tracks and dung of cattle were observed; and this was the farthest
point to the westward where we met with them. Kangaroos seemed to be very
rare; but kangaroo rats were numerous. Black-fellows were very near to us
last night; they very probably withdrew upon seeing us make our
appearance.
Oct. 10.--Cloudy; wind northerly; thermometer at 2h. 30m. P. M. 88
degrees. At about 1 1/2 or 2 miles distance, in a north-west direction
from our last camp, we came to a fine running creek from the north-east,
which we easily crossed; and, at about one mile farther, reached a
creek--which, at this time of the year, is a chain of lagoons--lined on
both sides by Bricklow scrub, which occupied a portion of its limited
flats in little points and detached groves. This vale was one of the most
picturesque spots we had yet seen. An Ironbark tree, with greyish
fissured bark and pale-green foliage, grows here, and Sterculia
heterophylla is pretty frequent amongst the box and flooded-gum, on the
rising ground between the two creeks. Farther on, the country opened, the
scrub receded; Ironbark ridges here and there, with spotted gum, with
dog-wood (Jacksonia) on a sandy soil, covered with flint pebbles,
diversified the sameness. The grass was beautiful, but the tufts distant;
the Ironbark forest was sometimes interspersed with clusters of Acacias;
sometimes the Ironbark trees were small and formed thickets. Towards the
end of the stage, the country became again entirely flat, without any
indication of drainage, and we were in manifest danger of being without
water. At last, a solitary lagoon was discovered, about 30 yards in
diameter, of little depth, but with one large flooded gum-tree, marked,
by a piece of bark stripped off, as the former resting-place of a native;
the forest oak is abundant. Here I first met with Hakea lorea, R. Br.,
with long terete drooping leaves, every leaf one and a-half to two feet
long--a small tree 18--24 minutes high--and with Grevillea mimosoides, R.
Br., also a small tree, with very long riband-like leaves of a silvery
grey. We did not see any kangaroos, but got a kangaroo rat and a
bandicoot.
Oct. 11.--Travelling north-west we came to a Cypress-pine thicket, which
formed the outside of a Bricklow scrub. This scrub was, at first,
unusually open, and I thought that it would be of little extent; I was,
however, very much mistaken: the Bricklow Acacia, Casuarinas and a
stunted tea-tree, formed so impervious a thicket, that the bullocks, in
forcing their way through it, tore the flour-bags, upset their loads,
broke their straps, and severely tried the patience of my companions, who
were almost continually occupied with reloading one or other of the
restless brutes. Having travelled five miles into it, and finding no
prospect of its termination, I resolved upon returning to our last camp,
which, however, I was not enabled to effect, without experiencing great
difficulty, delay, and loss; and it was not until the expiration of two
days, that we retraced our steps, and reached the lagoon which we had
left on the 11th. We had lost about 143 pounds of flour; Mr. Gilbert lost
his tent, and injured the stock of his gun. The same night, rain set in,
which lasted the whole of the next day: it came in heavy showers, with
thunder-storms, from the north and north-west, and rendered the ground
extremely boggy, and made us apprehensive of being inundated, for the
lagoon was rapidly rising: our tent was a perfect puddle, and the horses
and cattle were scarcely able to walk.
Within the scrub there was a slight elevation, in which sandstone cropped
out: it was covered with cypress-pine, and an Acacia, different from the
Bricklow. The Bottle-tree (Sterculia, remarkable for an enlargement of
the stem, about three feet above the ground,) was observed within the
scrub: the white Vitex (?) and Geigera, SCHOTT., a small tree, with
aromatic linear-lanceolate leaves, grew at its outside, and in small
groves scattered through the open forest. Fusanus, a small tree with
pinnate leaves, and Buttneria, a small shrub, were also found in these
groves.
Many pigeons were seen; the black cockatoo of Leach (Calyptorhynchus
Leachii) was shot; we passed several nests of the brush-turkey (Talegalla
Lathami, GOULD). Charley got a probably new species of bandicoot, with
longer ears than the common one, and with white paws. We distinguished,
during the rain, three different frogs, which made a very inharmonious
concert. The succinea-like shells were very abundant in the moist grass;
and a limnaea in the lagoon seemed to me to be a species different from
those I had observed in the Moreton Bay district, The thermometer at
sunset 62 degrees (in the water 68 degrees); at sunrise 52 degrees (in
the water 62 degrees).
On the 15th October, the wind changed during the afternoon to the
westward, and cleared the sky, and dried the ground very rapidly.
Oct. 17.--The ground was too heavy and boggy to permit us to start
yesterday; besides, three horses were absent, and could not be found.
Last night, Mr. Roper brought in three ducks and a pigeon, and was
joyfully welcomed by all hands. Charley had been insolent several times,
when I sent him out after the cattle, and, this morning, he even
threatened to shoot Mr. Gilbert. I immediately dismissed him from our
service, and took from him all the things which he held on condition of
stopping with us. The wind continued from the west and south-west.
Oct. 18.--Towards evening Charley came and begged my pardon. I told him
that he had particularly offended Mr. Gilbert, and that I could not think
of allowing him to stay, if Mr. Gilbert had the slightest objection to
it: he, therefore, addressed himself to Mr. Gilbert, and, with his
consent, Charley entered again into our service. John Murphy and Caleb,
the American negro, went to a creek, which Mr. Hodgson had first seen,
when out on a RECONNOISSANCE to the northward, in order to get some game.
John had been there twice before, and it was not four miles distant:
they, however, did not return, and, at nine o'clock at night, we heard
firing to the north-east. We answered by a similar signal, but they did
not come in. I sent Mr. Hodgson and Charley to bring them back. If they
had simply given the bridle to their horses, they would have brought them
back without delay; but probably both got bewildered.
The latitude of this lagoon, which I called Kent's Lagoon, after F. Kent,
Esq., is 26 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds. We tried to obtain opossums,
during the clear moonlight night, but only caught the common rabbit-rat.
Our horses go right into the scrub, to get rid of the little flies, which
torment them. The weather is very fair; the regular westerly breeze,
during the day, is setting in again: the dew is very abundant during
clear nights: the morning very cold; the water of the lagoon 8 degrees to
10 degrees warmer than the air.
We have regularly balanced our loads, and made up every bag of flour to
the weight of 120 pounds: of these we have eight, which are to be carried
by four bullocks. The chocolate and the gelatine are very acceptable at
present, as so little animal food can be obtained. The country continues
to be extremely boggy, though the weather has been fine, with high winds,
for the last four days. Tracks of Blackfellows have been seen; but they
appear rare and scattered in this part of the country. Though we meet
with no game, tracks of kangaroos are very numerous, and they frequently
indicate animals of great size. Emus have been seen twice.
Thermometer at sunset 65 degrees 7 minutes (75 degrees in the water); at
a quarter past one, 90 degrees. South-westerly winds.
Oct. 19.--During the night, north-easterly breeze; at the break of day, a
perfect calm; after sunset easterly winds again. Thermometer at sunrise
51 degrees (60 degrees in the water); a cloudless sky. Mr. Hodgson and
Charley, whom I had sent to seek John and Caleb, returned to the camp
with a kangaroo. I sent them immediately off again, with Mr. Roper, to
find the two unfortunate people, whose absence gave me the greatest
anxiety. Mr. Roper and Mr. Gilbert had brought one pigeon and one duck,
as a day's sport; which, with the kangaroo, gave us a good and desirable
supper of animal food. During the evening and the night, a short
bellowing noise was heard, made probably by kangaroos, of which Mr.
Gilbert stated he had seen specimens standing nine feet high. Brown
brought a carpet snake, and a brown snake with yellow belly. The flies
become very numerous, but the mosquitoes are very rare.
On a botanical excursion I found a new Loranthus, with flat linear
leaves, on Casuarina, a new species of Scaevola, Buttneria, and three
species of Solanum. Mr. Hodgson brought a shrubby Goodenia; another
species with linear leaves, and with very small yellow blossoms, growing
on moist places in the forest; two shrubby Compositae; three different
species of Dodonaea, entering into fruit; and a Stenochilus, R. Br. with
red blossoms, the most common little shrub of the forest.
Mr. Gilbert brought me a piece of coal from the crossing place of the
creek of the 10th October. It belongs probably to the same layer which is
found at Flagstone Creek, on Mr. Leslie's station, on Darling Downs. We
find coal at the eastern side of the Coast Range, from Illawarra up to
Wide Bay, with sandstone; and it seems that it likewise extends to the
westward of the Coast Range, being found, to my knowledge, at Liverpool
Plains, at Darling Downs, and at Charley's Creek, of the 10th Oct. It is
here, as well as at the east side, connected with sandstone. Flint
pebbles, of a red colour, were very abundant at Charley's Creek, and in
the scrub, which I called the Flourspill, as it had made such a heavy
inroad into our flour-bags. The flat on which we encamp, is composed of a
mild clay, which rapidly absorbs the rain and changes into mud; a layer
of stiff clay is about one foot below the surface. The grasses are at
present in full ear, and often four feet high; but the tufts are distant,
very different from the dense sward at the other side of the Range. As we
left the Myal country of the Condamine, we left also its herbage,
abounding in composite, leguminous, and chenopodiaceous plants, with a
great variety of grasses.
Oct. 20.--This morning, at half-past nine o'clock, Messrs. Roper,
Hodgson, and Charley, returned with John Murphy and Caleb. They had
strayed about twelve miles from the camp, and had fairly lost themselves.
Their trackers had to ride over seventy miles, before they came up to
them, and they would certainly have perished, had not Charley been able
to track them: it was indeed a providential circumstance that he had not
left us. According to their statement, the country is very open, with a
fine large creek, which flows down to the Condamine; this is the creek
which we passed on the 10th Oct., and which I called "Charley's Creek."
The creek first seen by Mr. Hodgson joins this, and we are consequently
still on westerly waters.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 degrees (in the water 64 degrees); at eight
o'clock 64 degrees. Strong easterly and northerly winds during the last
two nights. It becomes calm at a quarter past three, with the rise of
Venus.
Mr. Calvert brought an edible mushroom out of Flourspill Scrub.
The Loranthus of the Myal grows also on other Acacias with glaucous
leaves. A bright yellow everlasting is very fine and frequent.
Oct. 22.--I left Kent's lagoon yesterday. In order to skirt the scrub, I
had to keep to the north-east, which direction brought me, after about
three miles travelling through open forest, to Mr. Hodgson's creek, at
which John Murphy and Caleb had been lost. The creek here consists of a
close chain of fine rocky water-holes; the rock is principally clay,
resembling very much a decomposed igneous rock, but full of nodules and
veins of iron-stone. I now turned to the northward, and encamped at the
upper part of the creek. To-day I took my old course to the north-west,
and passed a scrubby Ironbark forest, and flat openly-timbered forest
land. I came again, however, to a Bricklow scrub, which I skirted, and
after having crossed a very dense scrubby Ironbark forest, came to a
chain of rushy water-holes, with the fall of the waters to the
north-east. The whole drainage of a north-easterly basin, seems to have
its outlet, through Charley's Creek, into the Condamine.
On the banks of Hodgson's Creek, grows a species of Dampiera, with many
blue flowers, which deserves the name of "D. floribunda;" here also were
Leptospermum; Persoonia with lanceolate pubescent leaf; Jacksonia
(Dogwood); the cypress-pine with a light amber-coloured resin (Charley
brought me fine claret-coloured resin, and I should not be surprised to
find that it belongs to a different species of Callitris); an Acacia with
glaucous lanceolate one-inch-long phyllodia; and a Daviesia; another
Acacia with glaucous bipinnate leaves; a white Scaevola, Anthericum, and
a little Sida, with very showy blossoms. Spotted-gum and Ironbark formed
the forest; farther on, flooded-gum.
Pigeons, mutton-birds (Struthidia), are frequent, and provided us with
several messes; iguanas are considered great delicacies; several black
kangaroos were scen to day.
The weather very fine, but hot; the wind westerly; thermometer at sunset
74 degrees (84 degrees in the water.)
Oct. 23.--At the commencement of last night, westerly winds, the sky
clear; at the setting of the moon (about 3 o'clock a.m.), the wind
changed to the north-east; scuddy clouds passing rapidly from that
quarter; at sunrise it clears a little, but the whole morning cloudy, and
fine travelling weather.
We travelled in a north-westerly direction, through a Casuarina thicket,
but soon entered again into fine open Ironbark forest, with occasionally
closer underwood; leaving a Bricklow scrub to our right, we came to a dry
creek with a deep channel; which I called "Acacia Creek," from the
abundance of several species of Acacia. Not a mile farther we came on a
second creek, with running water, which, from the number of Dogwood
shrubs (Jacksonia), in the full glory of their golden blossoms. I called
"Dogwood Creek." The creek came from north and north-east and flowed to
the south-west, to join the Condamine. The rock of Dogwood Creek is a
fine grained porous Psammite (clayey sandstone), with veins and nodules
of iron, like that of Hodgson's creek. A new gum-tree, with a
rusty-coloured scaly bark, the texture of which, as well as the
seed-vessel and the leaf, resembled bloodwood, but specifically
different; the apple-tree (Angophora lanceolata); the flooded-gum; a
Hakea with red blossoms; Zierea; Dodonaea; a crassulaceous plant with
handsome pink flowers; a new myrtaceous tree of irregular stunted growth,
about 30 feet high, with linear leaves, similar to those of the rosemary;
a stiff grass, peculiar to sandstone regions; and a fine Brunonia, with
its chaste blue blossoms, adorn the flats of the creek as well as the
forest land. The country is at present well provided with water and
grass, though the scattered tufts of Anthistiria, and the first
appearance of the small grass-tree (Xanthorrhaea), render its constancy
very doubtful. The winding narrow-leaved Kennedyas, Gnaphaliums in
abundance; Aotus in low bushes.
No game, except a kangaroo rat, pigeons, ducks, and mutton-birds. Mr.
Phillips brought a crawfish from the creek: it had just thrown off its
old shell. Fresh-water muscles plentiful, though not of the size of those
of the Condamine. A small rat was caught this morning amongst our flour
bags; it had no white tip at the tail, nor is the tail so bushy as that
of the rabbit-rat: probably it was a young animal.
Oct. 24.--The creek being boggy, we had to follow it down for several
miles to find a crossing place. Even here, one of the horses which
carried the tea, fell back into the water, whilst endeavouring to
scramble up the opposite bank, and drenched its valuable load. We now
travelled through a country full of lagoons, and chains of water-holes,
and passed through several patches of cypress-pine, until we came to
another creek with rocky water-holes, with the fall to the eastward,
probably joining Dogwood Creek, from which we were not four miles
distant. Fine grassy flats accompanied the creek on its left, whilst a
cypress-pine forest grew on its right bank. The latitude of our
yesterday's camp was 26 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds and, to-day, we are
only four miles more to the westward. The country is still so flat and so
completely wooded--sometimes with scrubs, thickets, Acacia, and Vitex
groves, sometimes with open Ironbark forest intermingled with spotted
gum--that no view of distant objects can be obtained. Several
Epacridaceous shrubs and species of Bossiaea and Daviesia reminded me of
the flora of the more southern districts.
Oct. 25.--We travelled about twelve miles in a north-westerly direction,
our latitude being 26 degrees 15 minutes 46 seconds. The country in
general scrubby, with occasional reaches of open forest land. The
rosemary-leaved tree of the 23rd was very abundant. An Acacia with spiny
phyllodia, the lower half attached to the stem, the upper bent off in the
form of an open hook, had been observed by me on the sandstone ridges of
Liverpool Plains: and the tout ensemble reminded me forcibly of that
locality. The cypress-pine, several species of Melaleuca, and a fine
Ironbark, with broad lanceolate, but not cordate, glaucous leaves, and
very dark bark, formed the forest. An arborescent Acacia, in dense
thickets, intercepted our course several times. Bronze-winged pigeons
were very numerous, but exceedingly shy.
The stillness of the moonlight night is not interrupted by the screeching
of opossums and flying squirrels, nor by the monotonous note of the
barking-bird and little owlet; no native dog is howling round our camp in
the chilly morning: the cricket alone chirps along the water-holes; and
the musical note of an unknown bird, sounding like "gluck gluck"
frequently repeated, and ending in a shake, and the melancholy wail of
the curlew, are heard from the neighbouring scrub.
Oct. 26.--Our journey was resumed: wind in the morning from the west;
light clouds passing rapidly from that quarter.
Messrs. Hodgson and Roper, following the chain of ponds on which we had
encamped, came to a large creek, with high rocky banks and a broad stream
flowing to the south-west. We passed an Acacia scrub, and stretches of
fine open Ironbark forest, interspersed with thickets of an aborescent
species of Acacia, for about four miles in a north-west course, when we
found ourselves on the margin of a considerable valley full of Bricklow
scrub; we were on flat-topped ridges, about 80 to 100 feet above the
level of the valley. After several attempts to cross, we had to turn to
the N. N. E. and east, in order to head it, travelling through a most
beautiful open Ironbark forest, with the grass in full seed, from three
to four feet high. Following a hollow, in which the fall of the country
was indicated by the grass bent by the run of water after heavy showers
of rain, we came to fine water-holes, about five miles from our last
camp.
At the other side of the valley, we saw distant ranges to the north-west
and northward. The scrub was occasionally more open, and fine large
bottle-trees (Sterculia) were frequent: the young wood of which,
containing a great quantity of starch between its woody fibres, was
frequently chewed by our party. Fusanus was abundant and in full bearing;
its fruit (of the size of a small apple), when entirely ripe and dropped
from the tree, furnished a very agreeable repast: the rind, however,
which surrounds its large rough kernel, is very thin.
Oct. 27.--During last night a very strong, cold, westerly wind.
After travelling about 3 1/2 miles north, we were stopped by a Bricklow
scrub, which compelled us to go to the east and south-east. I encamped,
about three miles north-east by north from my last resting place, and
examined the scrub: it was out of the question to cross it. Mr. Gilbert
shot three black cockatoos and a bronze-winged pigeon.
Oct. 28.--During the night it was very cold, though no wind was stirring.
In the morning we experienced an easterly breeze. Travelling to the
eastward and east by south, I found that the water-holes outside of the
scrub at which we were encamped, changed into a creek with rocky bed,
having its banks partly covered with cypress-pine thickets. I crossed it
about three miles lower down, and, finding the Ironbark forest
sufficiently open, turned to the northward; scarcely three miles farther,
we came to another creek of a character similar to that of the last,
which I suppose to be one of the heads of Dogwood Creek. The blue
Brunonia was again frequent; the grass five feet high, in full ear, and
waving like a rye field. The soil, however, is sandy and rotten, and the
grass in isolated tufts. We encamped about four miles north-east from our
last camp.