CHAPTER XIX.

Manners, Customs, Occupations, &c., of the Natives on the River

Columbia.

The natives inhabiting on the Columbia, from the mouth of that river to

the falls, that is to say, on a space extending about 250 miles from

east to west, are, generally speaking, of low stature, few of them

passing five feet six inches, and many not even five feet. They pluck

out the beard, in the manner of the other Indians of North America; but

a few of the old men only suffer a tuft to grow upon their chins. On

arriving among them we were exceedingly surprised to see that they had

almost all flattened heads. This configuration is not a natural

deformity, but an effect of art, caused by compression of the skull in

infancy. It shocks strangers extremely, especially at first sight;

nevertheless, among these barbarians it is an indispensable ornament:

and when we signified to them how much this mode of flattening the

forehead appeared to us to violate nature and good taste, they answered

that it was only slaves who had not their heads flattened. The slaves,

in fact, have the usual rounded head, and they are not permitted to

flatten the foreheads of their children, destined to bear the chains of

their sires. The natives of the Columbia procure these slaves from the

neighboring tribes, and from the interior, in exchange for beads and

furs. They treat them with humanity while their services are useful, but

as soon as they become incapable of labor, neglect them and suffer them

to perish of want. When dead, they throw their bodies, without ceremony,

under the stump of an old decayed tree, or drag them to the woods to be

devoured by the wolves and vultures.

The Indians of the Columbia are of a light copper color, active in body,

and, above all, excellent swimmers. They are addicted to theft, or

rather, they make no scruple of laying hands on whatever suits them in

the property of strangers, whenever they can find an opportunity. The

goods and effects of European manufacture are so precious in the eyes of

these barbarians, that they rarely resist the temptation of stealing

them.

These savages are not addicted to intemperance, unlike, in that respect

the other American Indians, if we must not also except the Patagonians,

who, like the Flatheads, regard intoxicating drinks as poisons, and

drunkenness as disgraceful. I will relate a fact in point: one of the

sons of the chief Comcomly being at the establishment one day, some of

the gentlemen amused themselves with making him drink wine, and he was

very soon drunk. He was sick in consequence, and remained in a state of

stupor for two days. The old chief came to reproach us, saying that we

had degraded his son by exposing him to the ridicule of the slaves, and

besought us not to induce him to take strong liquors in future.

The men go entirely naked, not concealing any part of their bodies. Only

in winter they throw over the shoulders a panther's skin, or else a

sort of mantle made of the skins of wood-rats sewed together. In rainy

weather I have seen them wear a mantle of rush mats, like a Roman toga,

or the vestment which a priest wears in celebrating mass; thus equipped,

and furnished with a conical hat made from fibrous roots and

impermeable, they may call themselves rain-proof. The women, in addition

to the mantle of skins, wear a petticoat made of the cedar bark, which

they attach round the girdle, and which reaches to the middle of the

thigh. It is a little longer behind than before, and is fabricated in

the following manner: They strip off the fine bark of the cedar, soak it

as one soaks hemp, and when it is drawn out into fibres, work it into a

fringe; then with a strong cord they bind the fringes together. With so

poor a vestment they contrive to satisfy the requirements of modesty;

when they stand it drapes them fairly enough; and when they squat down

in their manner, it falls between their legs, leaving nothing exposed

but the bare knees and thighs. Some of the younger women twist the

fibres of bark into small cords, knotted at the ends, and so form the

petticoat, disposed in a fringe, like the first, but more easily kept

clean and of better appearance.

Cleanliness is not a virtue among these females, who, in that respect,

resemble the other Indian women of the continent. They anoint the body

and dress the hair with fish oil, which does not diffuse an agreeable

perfume. Their hair (which both sexes wear long) is jet black; it is

badly combed, but parted in the middle, as is the custom of the sex

everywhere, and kept shining by the fish-oil before-mentioned.

Sometimes, in imitation of the men, they paint the whole body with a red

earth mixed with fish-oil. Their ornaments consist of bracelets of

brass, which they wear indifferently on the wrists and ankles; of

strings of beads of different colors (they give a preference to the

blue), and displayed in great profusion around the neck, and on the arms

and legs; and of white shells, called _Haiqua_, which are their ordinary

circulating medium. These shells are found beyond the straits of _Juan

de Fuca_, and are from one to four inches long, and about half an inch

in diameter: they are a little curved and naturally perforated: the

longest are most valued. The price of all commodities is reckoned in

these shells; a fathom string of the largest of them is worth about ten

beaver-skins.

Although a little less slaves than the greater part of the Indian women

elsewhere, the women on the Columbia are, nevertheless, charged with the

most painful labors; they fetch water and wood, and carry the goods in

their frequent changes of residence; they clean the fish and cut it up

for drying; they prepare the food and cook the fruits in their season.

Among their principal occupations is that of making rush mats, baskets

for gathering roots, and hats very ingeniously wrought. As they want

little clothing, they do not sew much, and the men have the needle in

hand oftener than they.

The men are not lazy, especially during the fishing season. Not being

hunters, and eating, consequently, little flesh-meat (although they are

fond of it), fish makes, as I have observed, their principal diet. They

profit, therefore, by the season when it is to be had, by taking as much

as they can; knowing that the intervals will be periods of famine and

abstinence, unless they provide sufficiently beforehand.

Their canoes are all made of cedar, and of a single trunk: we saw some

which were five feet wide at midships, and thirty feet in length; these

are the largest, and will carry from 25 to 30 men; the smallest will

carry but two or three. The bows terminate in a very elongated point,

running out four or five feet from the water line. It constitutes a

separate piece, very ingeniously attached, and serves to break the surf

in landing, or the wave on a rough sea. In landing they put the canoe

round, so as to strike the beach stern on. Their oars or paddles are

made of ash, and are about five feet long, with a broad blade, in the

shape of an inverted crescent, and a cross at the top, like the handle

of a crutch. The object of the crescent shape of the blade is to be able

to draw it, edge-wise, through the water without making any noise, when

they hunt the sea-otter, an animal which can only be caught when it is

lying asleep on the rocks, and which has the sense of hearing very

acute. All their canoes are painted red, and fancifully decorated.

Their houses, constructed of cedar, are remarkable for their form and

size: some of them are one hundred feet in length by thirty or forty

feet in width. They are constructed as follows: An oblong square of the

intended size of the building is dug out to the depth of two or three

feet; a double row of cedar posts is driven into the earth about ten

feet apart; between these the planks are laid, overlapping each other to

the requisite height. The roof is formed by a ridge-pole laid on taller

posts, notched to receive it, and is constructed with rafters and planks

laid clapboard-wise, and secured by cords for want of nails. When the

house is designed for several families, there is a door for each, and a

separate fireplace; the smoke escapes through an aperture formed by

removing one of the boards of the roof. The door is low, of an oval

shape, and is provided with a ladder, cut out of a log, to descend into

the lodge. The entrance is generally effected stern-foremost.

The kitchen utensils consist of plates of ash-wood, bowls of fibrous

roots, and a wooden kettle: with these they succeed in cooking their

fish and meat in less time than we take with the help of pots and

stewpans. See how they do it! Having heated a number of stones red-hot,

they plunge them, one by one, in the vessel which is to contain the food

to be prepared; as soon as the water boils, they put in the fish or

meat, with some more heated stones on top, and cover up the whole with

small rush mats, to retain the steam. In an incredibly short space of

time the article is taken out and placed on a wooden platter, perfectly

done and very palatable. The broth is taken out also, with a ladle of

wood or horn.

It will be asked, no doubt, what instruments these savages use in the

construction of their canoes and their houses. To cause their patience

and industry to be admired as much as they deserve, it will be

sufficient for me to mention that we did not find among them a single

hatchet: their only tools consisted of an inch or half-inch chisel,

usually made of an old file, and of a mallet, which was nothing but an

oblong stone. With these wretched implements, and wedges made of hemlock

knots, steeped in oil and hardened by the fire, they would undertake to

cut down the largest cedars of the forest, to dig them out and fashion

them into canoes, to split them, and get out the boards wherewith to

build their houses. Such achievements with such means, are a marvel of

ingenuity and patience.

Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific · 第 19 / 29 章