In crossing the Bar at Senegal the boat is upset by a
Tornado--We escape being devoured by Sharks only to be
captured by the Natives--Are taken into the interior of
the country, and brought before the Negro King, from
whose wrath we are saved by the intercession of his
female attendants.
A day or two after we had arrived, the master of another vessel that
was at anchor near to us came on board and borrowed our long-boat and
some hands that he might go in it to Senegal. The captain, who was an
old friend of the party who made the request, agreed to lend it to
him, and as accidents are very frequent with boats crossing the bar,
on account of the heavy breakers, the best swimmers were selected for
the purpose, and the charge of the boat was given to me. We set off,
five men rowing and I at the helm. When we approached the bar, a
tornado, which had been for some time threatening, came upon us. The
impetuosity of these blasts is to be matched in no part of the world,
and as it came at once in its full force, we endeavoured, by putting
the boat before it, to escape its fury. This compelled us to run to
the southward along the coast. We managed to keep the boat up for a
long while, and hoped to have weathered it, when, being on the bar,
and in broken water, a large wave curled over us, filled the boat, and
it went down in an instant.
Our only chance now was to reach the shore by swimming, but it was at
a distance, with broken water the whole way; and our great terror was
from the sharks, which abound on the coast and are extremely
ravenous--nor were we without reason for our alarm. Scarcely had the
boat gone down, and we were all stretching out for the shore, when one
of our men shrieked, having been seized by the sharks, and instantly
torn to pieces. His blood stained the water all around, and this
attracting all the sharks proved the means of our escape. Never shall
I forget the horrible sensation which I felt as I struggled through
the broken water, expecting every minute a limb to be taken off by one
of those voracious animals. If one foot touched the other, my heart
sank, thinking it was the nose of a shark, and that its bite would
immediately follow. Agonized with these terrors, we struggled on--now
a large wave curling over us and burying us under water, or now forced
by the waves towards the beach, rolling us over and over. So battered
were we by the surf, that we dived under the waves to escape the blows
which we received, and then rose and struck out again. At last, worn
out with exertion, we gained the shore, but our toil was not over.
The beach was of a sand so light that it crumbled beneath us, and at
the return of the wave which threw us on shore we were dragged back
again, and buried in sand and water. We rose to renew our endeavours,
but several times without success, for we could not obtain a firm
footing. At last the Negroes, who had witnessed our accident, and who
now came down in great numbers on the beach, laid hold of us as the
sea threw us up, and dragged us beyond the reach of the waves. Worn
out with fatigue we lay on the sand, waiting to ascertain what the
savages would do with us; they were not long in letting us know, for
they soon began to strip us of every article of clothing on our backs.
One of our men attempted to resist, upon which a Negro drove a spear
through his thigh.
Having divided our apparel, after some consultation, they tied our
hands, and placing us in the midst of a large force, armed with
spears, and bows and arrows, they went off with us for the inland part
of the country. We set off with heavy hearts; taking, as we thought, a
last farewell of the ocean, and going forwards in great apprehension
of the fate that awaited us. The sand was very deep, and the heat of
the sun excessive, for it was then about noon. Without any garments,
we were soon scorched and blistered all over, and in intolerable
anguish, as well as fatigued; but the Negroes compelled us to move on,
goading us with their spears if we slackened our pace, and threatening
to run us through if we made a halt. We longed for the night, as it
would afford a temporary relief to our sufferings. It came at last,
and the Negroes collected wood and lighted a fire to keep off the wild
beasts, lying round it in a circle, and placing us in the midst of
them. We hoped to have some rest after what we had gone through, but
it was impossible--the night proved even worse than the day. The
musquitoes came down upon us in such swarms, and their bites were so
intolerable that we were almost frantic. Our hands being tied, we
could not beat them off, and we rolled over and over to get rid of
them. This made matters worse, for our whole bodies being covered with
raised blisters from the rays of the sun, our roiling over and over
broke the blisters, and the sand getting into the wounds, added to the
bites of the musquitoes, made our sufferings intolerable. We had
before prayed for night, we now prayed for day. Some prayed for death.
When the sun rose, we set off again, our conductors utterly
disregarding our anguish, and goading us on as before. In the forenoon
we arrived at a village, where our guards refreshed themselves; a very
small quantity of boiled corn was given to each of us, and we
continued our journey, passing by several small towns, consisting, as
they all do in that country, of huts built of reeds, round in form,
and gathered to a point at top. This day was the same as the
preceding. We were pricked with spears if we stumbled or lagged,
threatened with death if we had not strength to go on. At last the
evening arrived, and the fires were lighted. The fires were much
larger than before, I presume because the wild beasts were more
numerous, for we heard them howling in every direction round us, which
we had not done on the night before. The musquitoes did not annoy us
so much, and we obtained some intervals of broken rest. At daylight we
resumed our journey, as near as we could judge by the sun, in a more
easterly direction.
During the first two days we were badly received by the inhabitants of
the towns, whose people had been kidnapped so often for the
slave-trade; they hated the sight of our white faces, for they
presumed that we had come for that purpose; but as we advanced in the
interior, we were better treated, and the natives looked upon us with
surprise and wonder, considering us as a new race of beings. Some of
the women seeing how utterly exhausted we were with fatigue and
hunger, looked with compassion on us, and brought us plenty of boiled
corn and goats' milk to drink. This refreshed us greatly, and we
continued our journey in anxious expectation of the fate for which we
were reserved.
On crossing a small river, which appeared to be the boundary of two
different states, a multitude of Negroes approached, and seemed
disposed to take us from our present masters, but after a conference,
they agreed among themselves, and a party of them joined with those
who had previously conducted us. We soon came to the edge of a desert,
and there we halted till the Negroes had filled several calabashes and
gourds full of water, and collected a quantity of boiled corn. As soon
as this was done, we set off again, and entered the desert. We were
astonished and terrified when we looked around us, not a single
vestige of herbage, not a blade of grass was to be seen--all was one
wide waste of barren sand, so light as to rise in clouds at the least
wind, and we sank so deep in walking through it that at last we could
hardly drag one foot after the other. But we were repaid for our
fatigue, for when we halted at night, no fires were lighted, and to
our great delight we found that there were no musquitoes to annoy us.
We fell into a sound sleep, which lasted till morning, and were much
refreshed; indeed, so much so as to enable us to pursue our journey
with alacrity.
In our passage over the desert we saw numbers of elephants' teeth, but
no animals. How the teeth came there, unless it were that the
elephants were lost in attempting to cross the desert, I cannot
pretend to say. Before we had crossed the desert, our water was
expended, and we suffered dreadfully from thirst, walking as we did
during the whole day under a vertical sun. The night was equally
painful, as we were so tortured with the want of water; but on the
following day, when our strength was nearly exhausted, and we were
debating whether we should not lie down and allow the spears of our
conductors to put an end to our miseries, we came to the banks of a
river which the Negroes had evidently been anxiously looking for. Here
we drank plentifully, and remained all the day to recruit ourselves,
for the Negroes were almost as exhausted as we were. The next morning
we crossed the river, and plunged into a deep wood: the ground being
high, the musquitoes did not annoy us so much as they did down on the
low marshy land near the sea-coast. During our traverse through the
wood, we subsisted solely upon the birds and animals which the Negroes
killed with their bows and arrows.
When we had forced our way through the forest, we found the country,
as before, interspersed with wicker villages or small hamlets at a few
miles' distance from each other. Round each village there were small
patches of Guinea corn, and we frequently came to clusters of huts
which had been deserted. Between the sea-coast and the desert we had
traversed we observed that many of the inhabitants had European
fire-arms, but now the only weapons to be seen were spears and bows
and arrows. As we advanced we were surrounded at every village by the
natives, who looked upon us with surprise and astonishment, examining
us, and evidently considering us a new species. One morning we arrived
at a very large Negro town, and as we approached, our guards began to
swell with pride and exultation, and drove us before them among the
crowds of inhabitants, singing songs of triumph, and brandishing their
weapons. Having been driven through a great part of the town, we
arrived at a number of huts separated by a high palisade from the
rest, and appropriated, as we afterwards found, to the use of the king
of the country, his wives and attendants. Here we waited outside some
time, while our guards went in and acquainted this royal personage
with the present which they had brought for him.
We had reason to think that our captors were not his subjects, but had
been at variance with him, and had brought us as a present, that they
might make peace with an enemy too strong for them. We were at last
ordered to go inside the inclosure, and found ourselves in a large
open building, constructed like the others, of reeds and boughs. In
the centre was squatted a ferocious-looking old Negro, attended by
four young Negro women. He was raw-boned and lean, and of a very large
frame. A diabolical ferocity was imprinted on his grim countenance,
and as he moved his arms and legs he showed that under his loose skin
there was a muscle of extraordinary power. I never had before seen
such a living type of brutal strength and barbarity. On a mat before
him were provisions of different kinds. Behind him stood several grim
savages who held his weapons, and on each side, at a greater distance,
were rows of Negroes, with their heads bent down and their arms
crossed, awaiting his orders. The chief or king, as well as the four
women, had clothes of the blue cotton cloth of the country, that is,
one piece wrapped round the loins and descending to the ankles, and
another worn over their shoulders; but, with few exceptions, all the
rest, as well as the inhabitants generally, were quite naked. So were
we, as the reader may recollect. Round the necks of the women were
rows of gold beads, longer by degrees, until the last of the rows hung
lower than their bosoms, and both the king and they had large
bracelets of gold round their arms, wrists, and legs. The women, who
were young and well-looking, stared at us with eager astonishment,
while the old king scowled upon us so as to freeze our blood. At last,
rising from the ground, he took his sabre from the man who held it
behind him, and walked up among us, who with our heads bowed, and
breathless with fear, awaited our impending fate. I happened to be
standing the foremost, and grasping my arm with a gripe which made my
heart sink, with his hand which held the sword he bent down my head
still lower than it was. I made sure that he was about to cut off my
head, when the women, who had risen from the ground, ran crowding
round him, and with mingled entreaties and caresses strove to induce
him not to put his intentions, if such he really had, into execution.
They prevailed at last; the youngest took away his sword, and then
they led him back to his seat, after which the women came to us to
gratify their curiosity. They felt our arms and breasts, putting
innumerable questions to those who brought us thither. They appeared
very much amazed at the length of my hair, for I had worn it tied in a
long cue. Taking hold of it, they gave it two or three severe pulls,
to ascertain if it really grew to my head, and finding that it did so,
they expressed much wonder. When their curiosity was satisfied, they
then appeared to consider our condition, and having obtained the old
king's permission, they brought us a calabash full of cush-cush, that
is Guinea corn boiled into a thick paste. Our hands being still tied;
we could only by shaking our heads express our inability to profit by
their kindness. Understanding what we meant, they immediately cut our
thongs, and the youngest of the four perceiving that my arms were
benumbed from having been confined so many days, and that I could not
use them, showed the most lively commiseration for my sufferings. She
gently chafed my wrists with her hands, and showed every sign of pity
in her countenance, as indeed did all the other three. But I was by
far the youngest of the whole party who had been captured, and seemed
most to excite their pity and good-will. Shortly afterwards we were
all taken into an adjoining tent or hut, and our bodies were rubbed
all over with an oil, which after a few days' application left us
perfectly healed, and as smooth as silk. So altered was our condition,
that those very people who had guarded us with their spears and
threatened us with death, were now ordered to wait upon us, and as
the king's wives frequently came to see how we were treated, we were
served with the utmost humility and attention.