We shall be in Liverpool on Monday morning, the 16th of July, and

go to Radley's Hotel, where I hope we shall find you on our

arrival. My father is pretty well, in spite of all the late

anxieties and annoyances he has had to wade through. In the course

of the day preceding our departure from London two arrests were

served upon him by creditors of the theater, who, I suppose, think

when he is gone the whole concern must collapse and fall to pieces,

and I began to think some means would be devised to prevent our

leaving England after all. Our parting on Wednesday morning was, as

I told you, most miserable.... My poor mother was braver than I had

expected; but her parting from us, poor thing, is yet to come.

I found a letter from Emily Fitzhugh here, inclosing one as an

introduction to a lady in New York, who had once been her

friend.... Edinburgh is lovely and dear, and peace and quiet and

repose are always found by me near my dear Mrs. Harry Siddons; but

my heart is, oh, so sad!... Pray answer this directly. The time is

at hand when the quickest "directly" in our correspondence will be

three months.

Ever your affectionate

F. A. K.

_Monday, 2d._--My father and I went to the theater to rehearse

"Romeo and Juliet." In the evening the house was very fair,

considering how much the hot weather is against us; but of all the

comfortless people to act to, commend me to an Edinburgh audience.

Their undemonstrativeness, too, is something more than mere

critical difficulty to be pleased; there is a want of kindliness in

the cold, discourteous way in which they allow a stranger to appear

before them without ever affording him the slightest token of their

readiness to accept the efforts made to please them. I felt quite

sorry this evening for poor Mr. Didear, to whom not the faintest

sign of encouragement was vouchsafed on his first coming on. This

is being cold to an unamiable degree, and seems to me both a want

of good feeling and good breeding. I acted as well as they would

let me. As for poor John Mason, concluding, I suppose, from their

frozen silence that he was flat and ineffective, he ranted and

roared, and pulled me about in the last scene, till I thought I

should have come to pieces in his hands, as the house-maids say of

what they break. I was dreadfully exhausted at the end of the play;

there is nothing so killing as an ineffectual appeal to sympathy,

and, as the Italians know, "ben servire e non gradire" is one of

the "tre cose da morire." ...

_Tuesday, 3d._--Went to the theater to rehearse.... In the evening

the house was good, and the play went off very well. I acted well,

in spite of my new dresses, which stuck out all round me

portentously, and almost filled the little stage. J---- L---- was

like a great pink bird, hopping about hither and thither, and

stopping to speak, as if it had been well tamed and taught. The

audience actually laughed and applauded, and I should think must

have gone home very much surprised and exhausted with the unwonted

exertion.

_Wednesday, 4th._--Went to the theater to rehearse "Francis I."

After I got home, my mother told me she had determined to leave us

on Saturday, and go back to London with Sally Siddons; and I am

most thankful for this resolution.... How sad it will be in that

strange land beyond the sea, among those strange people, to whom we

are nothing but strangers! But this is foolish weakness; it must

be; and what a world of strength lies in those two little words!...

At the theater the house was very good, and I played very well....

_Thursday, 5th._--After breakfast went to rehearse "The Gamester."

... In the evening the house was not good. My father acted

magnificently; I never played this part well, and am now gone off

in it, and play it worse than not well; besides, I cannot bully

that great, big man, Mr. Didear; it is manifestly absurd.

_Friday, 6th._--To the theater to rehearse "Francis I." On my

return found Mr. Liston and his little girl waiting to ride with

me.... [This was the beginning of my acquaintance with the

celebrated surgeon Liston, who afterward became an intimate friend

of ours, and to whose great professional skill my father was

repeatedly indebted for relief under a most painful malady. He was

a son of Sir Robert Liston, and cousin of the celebrated comedian,

between whom and himself, however, there certainly was no family

likeness, Liston, the surgeon, being one of the handsomest persons

I ever saw. The last time I saw him has left a melancholy

impression on my mind of his fine face and noble figure. He had

been attending me professionally, but I had ceased to require his

care, and had not seen him for some time, when one morning walking,

according to my custom in summer, before seven o'clock, as I came

to the bridge over the Serpentine in Kensington Gardens, a horseman

crossing the bridge stopped by the iron railing, and, jumping off

his horse, came toward me. It was Liston, who inquired kindly after

my health, and, upon my not answering quite satisfactorily, he

said, "Ah! well, you are better than I am." I laughed

incredulously, as I looked at a magnificent figure leaning against

the great black horse he rode, and looking like a model of manly

vigor and beauty. But in less than a week from that day Liston died

of aneurism; and I suppose that when I met him he was well aware of

the death which had got him literally by the throat.]

_Saturday, 7th._--Miserable day of parting! of tearing away and

wrenching asunder!... At eleven we were obliged to go to rehearsal,

and when we returned found my mother busy with her packing.... When

she was gone, I sat down beside my father with a book in my hand,

not reading, but listening to his stifled sobbing; and every now

and then, in spite of my determination not to do it, looking up to

see how far the ship had moved. (Our windows looked over the

Forth.) But the white column of steam was rising steadily from

close under Newhaven, and for upward of half an hour continued to

do so. I had resolved not to raise my eyes again from my book, when

a sudden exclamation from my father made me spring up, and I saw

the steamer had left the shore, and was moving fast toward

Inchkeith, the dark smoky wake that lingered behind it showing how

far it had already gone from us, and warning us how soon it would

be beyond the ken of our aching eyes.... The carriage was

announced, and with a heavy heart and aching head, I drove to the

theater.... The play was "Francis I.," for the first time. The

house was very fine; I acted abominably, but that was not much to

be wondered at. However, I always have acted this part of my own

vilely; the language is not natural--mere stilted declamation from

first to last, most fatiguing to the chest, and impossible for me

to do anything with, as it excites no emotion in me whatever....

EDINBURGH, July 8, 1832.

MY DEAREST H----,

I had just left my father at the window that overlooks the Forth,

watching my poor mother's ship sailing away to England, when I

received your letter; and it is impossible to imagine a sorer,

sadder heart than that with which I greeted it.... Thank you for

the pains you are taking about your picture for me; crammed with

occupation as my time is here, I would have done the same for you,

but that I think in Lawrence's print you have the best and likest

thing you can have of me.... I cannot tell you at what hour we

shall reach Liverpool, but it will be very early on Monday

morning.... I am glad you have not deferred sitting for your

picture till you came to Liverpool, for it would have encroached

much upon our time together. I remember when I returned from

abroad, a school-girl, I thought I had forgotten my mother's face.

This copy of yours will save me from that nonsensical morbid

feeling, and you will surely not forget mine.... You bid me, if

anything should go ill with me, summon you across the Atlantic.

Alas! dear H----, you forget that before a letter from that other

world can reach this, more than a month must have elapsed, and the

writer may no longer be in either. You say you hope I may return a

new being; and I have no doubt my health will be benefited, and my

spirits revived by change of external objects; but oh, how dreary

it all is now! You bid me cheer my father when my mother shall have

left us, without knowing that she is already gone. I make every

exertion that duty and affection can prompt; but, you know, it is

my nature rather to absorb the sorrow of others than to assist them

in throwing it off; and when one's own heart is all but frozen, one

knows not where to find warmth to impart to those who are shivering

with misery beside one.... I have left myself scarcely any room to

tell you of my present life. I work very hard, rehearsing every

morning and acting every night, and spending the intervening time

in long farewell rides round this most beautiful and beloved

Edinburgh. Mr. Combe says I am wearing myself out, body and mind;

but I am already looking better, and less thin, than when I left

London; and besides, I shall presently have a longer rest--holiday

I cannot call it--on board ship than I have had for the last three

years. We acted "Francis I." here last night, for the first time;

and I am sure that, mingled with the applause, I heard very

distinct hissing; whether addressed to the acting, which was some

of it execrable, or to the play itself, which I think quite

deserving of such a demonstration, I know not.... You know my

opinion of the piece; and as, with the exception of the two parts

of De Bourbon and the Friar, and not excepting my own, it really

was vilely acted, hissing did not appear to me an unnatural

proceeding, though perhaps, under the circumstances, not altogether

a courteous one on the part of the modern Athenians. I tell you

this, because what else have I to tell you, but that I am your ever

affectionate

F. A. K.

_Tuesday, 10th._--At half-past twelve rode out with Liston and his

daughter, Mr. Murray, and Allen (since Sir William, the celebrated

artist, friend, and painter, of Walter Scott and his family).... In

the evening, at the theater, the house was very full, and I acted

very well, though I was so tired that I could hardly stand, and

every bone in my body ached with my hard morning's ride. While I

was sitting in the greenroom, Mr. Wilson came in, and it warmed my

heart to see a Covent Garden face. He tells me Laporte is giving

concerts in the poor old playhouse: well, good luck attend him,

poor man (though I know it won't, for "there's nae luck about that

house, there's nae luck at a'"). Walter Scott has reached

Edinburgh, and starts for Abbotsford to-morrow: I am glad he has

come back to die in his own country, in his own home, surrounded by

the familiar objects his eyes have loved to look upon, and by the

hearts of his countrymen, and the prayers, the blessings, the

gratitude, and the love they owe him. All Europe will mourn his

death; and for years to come every man born on this soil will be

proud, for his sake, to call himself a Scotchman.

_Wednesday, 11th._-- ... At half-past twelve met Mr. Murray, Mr.

Allen, and Mr. Byrne.... As we started for our ride, and were

"cavalcading" leisurely along York Place, that most enchanting old

sweetheart of mine, Baron Hume, came out of a house. I rode toward

him, and he met me with his usual hearty, kind cordiality, and a

world of old-fashioned stately courtesy, ending our conference by

devoutly kissing the tip of my little finger, to the infinite

edification of my party, upon whose minds I duly impressed the vast

superiority of this respectful style of gallantry to the flippant,

easy familiarity of the present day. These old beaux beat the young

ones hollow in the theory of courtship, and it is only a pity that

their time for practice is over. Commend me to this bowing and

finger-kissing! it is at any rate more dignified than the nodding,

bobbing, and hand-shaking of the present fashion. The be-Madaming,

too, has in it something singularly pleasing to my taste; there's a

hoop and six yards of brocade in each of its two syllables.... At

the theater the play was "Francis I." I acted well, and the play

went off very well. Mr. Allen came and sat in the greenroom,

telling me all about Constantinople and the Crimea, and the

beautiful countries he has seen, and where his memory and his

wishes are forever wandering; a rather sad comment upon the perfect

vision of content his charming home at Laurieston had suggested to

me.

_Thursday, 12th._-- ... At the theater the play was "The

Hunchback." The house was very good, and I acted very well. Dear

Mr. Allen came into the greenroom, and had a long gossip with me.

_Friday, 13th._-- ... Went with Mr. Combe to the Phrenological

Museum, and spent two hours listening to some very interesting

details on the anatomy of the brain, which certainly tended to make

the science more credible to my ignorance, though the general

theory has never appeared to me as impossible and extravagant as

some people think it. The insuperable point where I stick fast is a

doubt of the practically beneficial result which its general

acceptance would produce. I think they overrate the reforming power

of their system, though Mr. Combe's account of the numbers who

attend his lectures, and of the improvement of their bodily and

mental conditions which he has himself witnessed, must, of course,

make me feel diffident of my own judgment in the matter. Their own

experience can alone test the utility of their system, and whether

it does or does not answer their expectations. I thought of Hamlet

as I sat on the ground, with my arms and lap full of skulls. It is

curious enough to grasp the empty, worthless, unsightly case in

which once dwelt the thinking faculty of a man. One of the best

specimens of the human skull, it seems, is Raphael's; a cast of

whose head I held lovingly in my hands, wishing it had been the

very house where once abode that spirit of immortal beauty. [The

phrenological authorities were mistaken, it seems, in attributing

this skull to Raphael. I believe that it has been ascertained to be

that of his friend, the engraver, Marc Antonio.] At the theater the

play was "The Hunchback;" the house very good, and I played very

well.

_Saturday, 14th._--My last day in Edinburgh for two years; and who

can tell for how many more? At eleven o'clock, Mr. Murray, Mr.

Allen, Mr. Byrne, and myself sallied forth on horseback toward the

Pentlands, having obtained half an hour's grace off dinner-time, in

order to get to Habbies How. We went out by the Links, and up steep

rises over a white and dusty road, with a flaring stone dyke on

each side, and neither tree nor bush to shelter us from the

scorching sunlight till we came to Woodhouseleigh, the haunted walk

of a white specter, who, it seems, was fond of the shade, for her

favorite promenade was an avenue overarched with the green arms of

noble old elm trees; and we blessed the welcome shelter of the

Ghost's Haunt.... A cloud fell over all our spirits as we rode away

from this enchanting spot, and Mr. Murray, pointing to the sprig of

heather I had put in my habit, said they would establish an Order

of Knighthood, of which the badge should be a heather spray, and

they three the members, and I the patroness; that they would meet

and drink my health on the 14th of July, and on my birthday, every

year till I returned; and a solemn agreement was made by all

parties that whenever I did return and summoned my worthies, we

should again adjourn together to the glen in the Pentlands. When we

reached home, Mr. Allen, who cannot endure a formal parting, shook

hands with me and bade me good-by as I dismounted, as if we were to

ride again to-morrow. [And I never saw him again. Peace be with

him! He was a most amiable and charming companion, and during these

days of friendly intimacy, his conversation interested and

instructed me, and his poetical feeling of Nature, and placid,

unruffled serenity, added much to the pleasure of those delightful

rides.] ... At the theater the play was "The Provoked Husband," for

my benefit; the house was very fine, and I played pretty well.

After it was over, the audience shouted and clamored for my father,

who came and said a few words of our sorrow to leave their

beautiful city.... Mrs. Harry, Lizzie, and I were in my

dressing-room, crying in sad silence, and vainly endeavoring to

control our emotion. Presently my father came hurriedly in, and

folding them both in his arms, just uttered in a broken voice,

"Good-by! God bless you!" and I, embracing my dear friends for the

last time, followed him out of the room. It is not the time only

that must elapse before I can see her again, it is the terrible

distance, the slowness and uncertainty of communication; it is that

dreadful America.

_Thursday, 19th, Liverpool._-- ... At eleven went to the theater

for rehearsal; it was very slovenly. I wonder what the performance

will be? In the evening to the theater; the play was "Francis I.,"

and the house was very good, which was almost to be wondered at in

this plague-stricken city. [The cholera was raging in Liverpool.] I

was frightened, as I always am at a new part, even in my own play,

though glad enough to resign that odious dignity, the queen-mother.

[The part of Louisa of Savoy had been given to me when first the

piece was brought out at Covent Garden; I was now playing the

younger heroine, Françoise de Foix.] I played pretty well, though

there is nothing to be done with the part. She is perfectly

uninteresting and ineffective; but it is better for the cast of the

play that I should act her instead of Louisa. And when one can have

such a specimen of a queen as we had to-night, it would be a

thousand pities the audience should be put off with my inferior

views of royalty. Such bouncing, frowning, growling, and snarling

might have challenged a whole zoological garden full of wild beasts

to surpass. It's a comfort to see that it is possible to play that

part worse than I did.

_Friday, 20th._--Went to rehearsal.... Received a letter from

Lizzie, giving me an account of my dear old Newhaven fish-wife,

poor body! to whom I had sent a farewell present by her. I received

also a long copy of anonymous verses, in which I was rather

pathetically remonstrated with for seeking fame and fortune out of

my own country. The author is slightly mistaken; neither the love

of money nor notoriety would carry me away from England, but the

love of my father constrains me.... The American Consul and Mr.

Arnold called. After dinner I read Combe's "Constitution of Man,"

which interested me very much, though it fails to convince me that

phrenology can alone bestow this insight into human nature. At the

theater "The School for Scandal;" I played pretty well, though the

actors were all dreadfully imperfect, and some of them so nervous

and quick, and some so nervous and slow, that it was hardly

possible to keep pace with them.

_Saturday, 21st._--From Liverpool to Manchester. After all, this

Liverpool, with all its important wealth and industry, is a

dismal-looking place, a swarming world of dingy red houses and

dirty streets.... How well I remember the opening of this

railway!... They have placed a marble tablet in the side of the

road to commemorate the spot where poor Huskisson fell; I

remembered it by the pools of dark-green water that, as we passed

them then, made a dismal impression on me; they looked like stony

basins of verdigris. How glad I was to see Chatmoss--that

villainous, treacherous, ugly, useless bog--trenched and ditched in

process of draining and reclaiming, with the fair, holy, healthy

grain waving in bright green patches over the brown peaty soil!

Next to moral conversion, and the reclaiming to their noble uses

the perverted powers of human nature, there is nothing does one's

heart so much good as the sight of waste and barren land reclaimed

to the uses and wants of man; to see vegetation clothe the idle

space, and the cursed and profitless soil teeming with the means of

life and bringing forth abundant produce to requite the toil that

fertilized it; to see the wilderness crowned with bounteous

increase, and the blessing of God rising from the earth to reward

the labor of His creatures. It forcibly reminds one of all that is

left undone, and might be done, with that far more precious waste

land, those multitudes of our ignorant poor, whose minds and

spirits are as dark, as profitless, as barren, as dreary, and as

dangerous, as this wild bog was formerly, and who were never

ordained to live and die like so many human morasses.... In the

evening to the theater, which was crammed from the floor to the

ceiling; they are a pleasant audience, too, and make a delightful

quantity of sympathetic noise. I did not play well, which was a

pity and a shame, because they really deserved that one should do

so; but my coadjutors were too much for me.

_Sunday, 22d, Liverpool._--I did not think there was such another

day in store for me as this. I thought all was past and over, and

had forgotten the last drop in the bitter cup.... The day was

bitter cold, and we were obliged to have a fire.

LIVERPOOL, July 22.

MY DEAR MRS. JAMESON,

I fear you are either anxious or vexed, or perhaps both, about the

arrival of your books, and my non-acknowledgment of them. They

reached me in all safety, and but for the many occupations which

swallow up my time would have been duly receipted ere this. Thank

you very much for them, for they are very elegant outside, and the

dedication page, with which I should have been most ungracious to

find any fault. The little sketch on that leaf differs from the

design you had described to me some time ago, and I felt the full

meaning of the difference. I read through your preface all in a

breath; there are many parts of it which have often been matters of

discussion between us, and I believe you know how cordially I

coincide with most of the views expressed in it. The only point in

your preliminary chapter on which I do not agree with you is the

passage in which you say that humor is, of necessity and in its

very essence, vulgar. I differ entirely with you here. I think

humor is very often closely allied to poetry; not only a large

element in highly poetic minds, which surely refutes your position,

but kindred to the highest and deepest order of imagination, and

frequently eminently fanciful and graceful in its peculiar

manifestations. However, I cannot now make leisure to write about

this, but while I read it I scored the passage as one from which I

dissented. That, however, of course does not establish its fallacy;

but I think, had I time, I could convince you of it. I acted Juliet

on Wednesday, and read your analysis of it before doing so. Oh,

could you but have seen and heard my Romeo!... I am sure it is just

as well that an actress on the English stage at the present day

should not have too distinct a vision of the beings Shakespeare

intended to realize, or she might be induced, like the unfortunate

heroine of the song, to "hang herself in her garters." To be sure

there is always my expedient to resort to, of acting to a wooden

vase; you know I had one put upon my balcony, in "Romeo and

Juliet," at Covent Garden, to assist Mr. Abbott in drawing forth

the expression of my sentiments. I have been reading over Portia

to-day; she is still my dream of ladies, my pearl of womanhood....

I must close this letter, for I have many more to write to-night,

and it is already late. Once more, thank you very much for your

book, and believe me,

Ever yours very truly,

F. A. K.

_August 1st._--Sailed for America.

The book referred to in this letter was Mrs. Jameson's "Analysis of

Shakespeare's Female Characters," which she very kindly dedicated to me.

The etching in the title-page was changed from the one she at first

intended to have put in it, and represented a female figure in an

attitude of despondency, sitting by the sea, and watching a ship sailing

toward the setting sun; a design which I know she meant to have

reference to my departure. I believe she subsequently changed it again

to the one she had first executed, and which was of a less personal

significance.... I exchanged no more letters with my friend Miss S----,

who joined me at Liverpool, and remained with me till I sailed for

America.... "A trip," as it is now called, to Europe or America, is one

of the commonest of experiences, involving, apparently, so little

danger, difficulty, or delay, that the feelings with which I made my

first voyage across the Atlantic must seem almost incomprehensible to

the pleasure-seeking or business-absorbed crowds who throng the great

watery highway between the two continents.

But when I first went to America, steam had not shortened the passage of

that formidable barrier between world and world. A month, and not a

week, was the shortest and most favorable voyage that could be looked

for. Few men, and hardly any women, undertook it as a mere matter of

pleasure or curiosity; and though affairs of importance, of course, drew

people from one shore to the other, and the stream of emigration had

already set steadily westward, American and European tourists had not

begun to cross each other by thousands on the high seas in search of

health or amusement.

I was leaving my mother, my brothers and sister, my friends and my

country, for two years, and could only hear from them at monthly

intervals. I was going to work very hard, in a distasteful vocation,

among strangers, from whom I had no right to expect the invariable

kindness and indulgence my own people had favored me with. My spirits

were depressed by my father's troubled fortunes, and I had just received

the first sharp, smarting strokes in the battle of life; those gashes

from which poor "unbruised youth," in its infinite self-compassion,

fancies its very life-blood must all pour away; little imagining under

what gangrened, festering wounds brave life will still hold on its way,

and urge to the hopeless end its warfare with unconquerable sorrow.

There is nothing more pathetic than the terrified impatience of youth

under its first experience of grief, and its vehement appeal of "Behold,

and see if any sorrow be like unto my sorrow!" to the patient adepts in

suffering such as it has not yet begun to conceive of. Orlando's

adjuration to the exiled duke in "As You Like It," and the wise Prince's

reply, seem to me one of the most exquisite illustrations of the

comparative griefs of youth and age.

OFF SANDY HOOK, Monday, September 5.

MY DEAREST H----,

We are within three hours' sail of New York, having greeted the

first corner of Long Island (the first land we saw) yesterday

morning; but we are becalmed, and the sun shines so bright, and the

air is so warm and breathless, that we seem to have every chance of

lying here for the next--Heaven knows how long! In point of time,

you see, our voyage has been very prosperous, and I am surprised

that we have made such good progress, for the weather has been

squally, with constant head-winds. I do not think we have had, in

all, six days of fair wind, so that we have no reason whatever to

complain of our advance, having come thus far in thirty-two days.

You bade me write to you by ships passing us, but though we have

encountered several bound eastward, we only hailed them without

lying to; notwithstanding which, about a fortnight ago, on hearing

that a vessel was about to pass us, I wrote you a scrawl, which

none but you could have made out (so the fishes won't profit much

by it), and a kind fellow-passenger undertook to throw it from our

ship to the other as it passed us. She came alongside very rapidly,

and though he flung with great force and good aim, the distance was

too great, and my poor little missive fell into the black sea

within twenty feet of its destination. I could not help crying to

think that those words from my heart, that would have gladdened

yours, should go down into that cold, inky water.... I pray to God

that we may return to England, but I am possessed with a dread that

I never shall....

I have been called away from this letter by one of those little

incidents which Heaven in its mercy sends to break the monotony of

a sea-voyage. Ever since daybreak this morning an English brig has

been standing at a considerable distance behind us. About an hour

ago we went on deck to watch the approach of a boat which they were

sending off in our direction. The distance was about five miles,

and the men had a hard pull in the broiling heat. When they came on

board, you should have seen how we all clustered about them. The

ship was a merchantman from Bristol, bound to New York; she had

been out eleven weeks, her provisions were beginning to run short,

and the crew was on allowance. Our captain, who is a gentleman,

furnished them with flour, tea, sugar, porter, cold tongue, ham,

eggs, etc., etc. The men remained about half an hour on board, and

as they were remanning their boat we saw a whole cargo of eatables

carried to it from our steerage passengers. You know that these are

always poor people, who are often barely supplied themselves with

necessaries for their voyage. The poor are almost invariably kind

and compassionate to one another, and Gaffer Gray is half right

when he says--

"The poor man alone,

When he hears the poor moan,

Of his morsel one morsel will give."

They (the men from the brig) gave us news from Halifax, where they

had put in. The cholera had been in Boston, Philadelphia,

Baltimore, and New York; the latter town was almost deserted, and

the people flying in numbers from the others. This was rather bad

news to us, who were going thither to find audiences (if possible

not few, whether fit or not), but it was awful to such as were

going back to their homes and families. I looked at the anxious

faces gathered round our informer, and thought how the poor hearts

were flying, in terrible anticipation of the worst, to the nests

where they had left their dear ones, and eagerly counting every

precious head in the homes over which so black a cloud of doom had

gathered in their absence.... My father, though a bad sailor, and

suffering occasionally a good deal, has, upon the whole, borne the

voyage well. Poor dear Dall has been the greatest wretch on board;

she has been perfectly miserable the whole time. It has made me

very unhappy, for she has come away from those she loves very

dearly on my account, and I cannot but feel sad to see that most

excellent creature now, in what should be the quiet time of her

life, leaving home and all its accustomed ways, habits, and

comforts, and dear A----, who is her darling, to come wandering to

the ends of the earth after me.... These distant and prolonged

separations seem like foretastes of death.... We have seen an

American sun, and an American moon, and American stars, and we

think they "get up these things better than we do." We have had

several fresh squalls, and one heavy gale; we have shipped sundry

seas; we have had rat-hunting and harpooning of porpoises; we have

caught several hake and dogfish.

NEW YORK, AMERICA, Wednesday, September 5, 1832.

Here we really are, and perhaps you, who are not here, will believe

it more readily than I who am, and to whom it seems an impossible

kind of dream from which I must surely presently wake. We made New

York harbor Monday night at sunset, and cast anchor at twelve

o'clock off Staten Island, where we lay till yesterday morning at

half-past nine, when a steamboat came alongside to take the

passengers to shore. A thick fog covered the shores, and the rain

poured in torrents; but had the weather been more favorable, I

should have seen nothing of our approach to the city, for I was

crying bitterly. The town, as we drove through it from the landing,

struck me as foreign in its appearance--continental, I mean; trees

are mixed very prettily with the houses, which are painted of

various colors, and have green blinds on the outside, giving an

idea of coolness and shade.

The sunshine is glorious, and the air soft and temperate; our hotel

is pleasantly situated, and our rooms are gay and large. The town,

as I see it from our windows, reminds me a little of Paris.

Yesterday evening the trees and lighted shop-windows and brilliant

moonlight were like a suggestion of the Boulevards; it is very gay,

and rather like a fair.

The cholera has been very bad, but it is subsiding, and the people

are returning to town. We shall begin our work in about ten days. I

have not told you half I could say, but foolscap will contain no

more. God bless you, dear!

Affectionately yours,

F. A. K.

The foreboding with which I left my own country was justified by the

event. My dear aunt died, and I married, in America; and neither of us

ever had a home again in England.

NEW YORK, September 16, 1832.

MY DEAREST H----,

What shall I say to you? First of all, pray don't forget me, don't

be altered when I see you again, don't die before I come back,

don't die if I never come back.... You cannot imagine how strange

the comparisons people here are perpetually making between this

wonderful sapling of theirs and our old oak seem to me.... My

father, thank God, is wonderfully improved in health, looks, and

spirits; the fine, clear, warm (hot it should be called) atmosphere

agrees with him, and the release from the cares and anxieties of

that troublesome estate of his in St. Giles' will, I am sure, be of

the greatest service to him. He begins his work to-morrow night

with Hamlet, and on Tuesday I act Bianca. It is thought expedient

that we should act singly the two first nights, and then make a

"constellation." Dall is in despair because I am to be discovered

instead of coming on (a thing actors deprecate, because they do not

receive their salvo of entrance applause), and also because I am

not seen at first in what she thinks a becoming dress. For my part,

I am rather glad of this decision, for besides Bianca's being one

of my best parts, the play, as the faculty have mangled it, is such

a complete monologue that I am less at the mercy of my coadjutors

than in any other piece I play in....

Dall is very well, very hot, and very mosquito-bitten. The heat

seems to me almost intolerable, though it is here considered mild

autumn weather: the mornings and evenings are, it is true,

generally freshened with a cool delicious air, which is at this

moment blowing all my pens and paper away, and compensating us for

our midday's broiling. I do nothing but drink iced lemonade, and

eat peaches and sliced melon, in spite of the cholera.

Baths are a much cheaper and commoner luxury (necessary) in the

hotels here than with us; a great satisfaction to me, who hope in

heaven, if I ever get there, to have plenty of water to wash in,

and, of course, it will all be soft rainwater there. What a

blessing! On board ship we were not stinted in that respect, but

had as much water as we desired for external as well as internal

purposes.

There are no water-pipes or cisterns in this city such as we have,

but men go about as they do in Paris, with huge water-butts,

supplying each house daily; for although a broad river (so called)

runs on each side of this water-walled city, the one--the East

River--is merely an arm of the sea; and the Hudson receives the

salt tide-water, and is rendered brackish and unfit for washing or

cooking purposes far beyond the city. There are fine springs, and a

full fresh-water stream, at a distance of some miles; but the

municipality is not very rich, and is economical and careful of the

public money, and many improvements which might have been expected

to have been effected here long ago are halting in their advance,

leaving New York ill paved, ill lighted, and indifferently supplied

with a good many necessaries and luxuries of modern civilization.

[This was fifty-six years ago. Times are altered since this letter was

written. New York is neither ill paved nor ill lighted; the municipality

is rich, but neither economical, careful, nor honest, in dealing with

the public moneys. The rapid spread of superficial civilization and

accumulation of easily-got wealth, together with incessant communication

with Europe, have made of the great cities of the New World, centres of

an imperfect but extreme luxury, vying with, and in some respects going

beyond, all that London or Paris presents for the indulgence of tastes

pampered by the oldest civilization of Europe.

One day, after the Croton water had been brought into New York, I was

sitting with the venerable Chancellor Kent at the window of his house in

Union Square, and, pointing to the fountain that sprang up in the midst

of the inclosure, he said, "When I was a boy, much more than half a

century ago, I used to go to the Croton water, and paddle, and fish, and

bathe, and swim, and loiter my time away in the summer days. I cannot go

out there any more for any of these pleasant purposes, but the Croton

water has come here to me." What a ballad Schiller or Goethe would have

made of that! That morning visit to Chancellor Kent has left that pretty

picture in my mind, and the recollection of his last words as he shook

hands with me: "Ay, madam, the secret of life is always to have

excitement enough, and never too much." But he did not give me the

secret of that secret.]

There are, on an average, half a dozen fires in various parts of

the town every night--I mean houses on fire. The sons of all the

gentlemen here are volunteer engineers and firemen, and great is

the delight they take in tearing up and down the streets,

accompanied by red lights, speaking trumpets, and a rushing,

roaring escort of running amateur extinguishers, who make night

hideous with their bawling and bellowing. This evening as I was

observing that we had had no fire to-day, Dall said the weather was

so hot, she thought they must have left off fires for the season.

Speaking of carriages and the devices on the panels of them here,

which appear to be rather fancy pieces than heraldic bearings, my

father said, "I wonder what they do for arms." "Use legs," said

Dall immediately, not at all bethinking herself how ancient a

device on the shield of the Island of Man the three legs were, or

knowing how much more ancient on the coins of Crotona, I think, or

some other of the Magna Grecian colonies.

The hours which prevail here are those of our shop-keeping

population; they rise and go to business very early, dine at three,

which indeed is considered late, take tea at five, and supper at

nine, which seems to us very primitive.... The women here are,

generally speaking, very pretty little creatures, with a great deal

of freshness and brilliancy; they dress in the extreme of the

French fashion, and, I suppose from some unfavorable influence of

the climate, they lose their beauty prematurely--they become

full-blown very early, and their bloom is extremely evanescent;

they fade almost suddenly.... There seems to be a great deal of

consumption here. The climate is as capricious as ours, with this

additional disadvantage, that the extremes of heat and cold are

much more intense, and the transitions much more violent, the

temperature varying occasionally as much as thirty degrees in the

twenty-four hours. I have just left off writing for five minutes to

watch the lightning, which is dancing in a fiery ring all round the

horizon--summer lightning, no thunder, although the flashes are

strong and vivid....

We have had such a tremendous storm--really gorgeous, grand, and

awful; lightning that stretched from side to side of the sky,

making a blaze like daylight for several seconds at a time. The

mere reflection of it on the ground was more than the eye could

endure; great forked ribbons of fire darting into the very bosom of

the city and its crowded dwellings, or zigzagging through the air

to an accompaniment of short, sharp, crackling thunder, succeeded

by endless, deep, full-toned rolls that made the whole air shake

and vibrate with the heavy concussion; pelting and pouring rain, a

perfect tornado of wind. Heaven and earth are all, while I write,

one livid, violet-colored flame, and the thunder resounds through

the wild frenzy of the elements like the voice of "the Ruler of the

spirits." My eyes ache with the incessant glare, and I must close

my letter, for it is past eleven o'clock, and I have to rehearse

to-morrow morning.... I have seen Mr. Wallack since our arrival,

whom I never saw in England, either on or off the stage. I went the

other night to see him in one of his favorite pieces, "The

Rent-Day," which made me cry dreadfully, but chiefly, I believe,

because, when they are ruined, he asks his wife if she will go with

him to America. You see I am taking to play-going in my old age.

The theater is very pretty, of the best possible dimensions for me,

and tolerably good for the voice. We leave this place for

Philadelphia on the 10th of October, and remain there a fortnight,

and then go on to Boston....

Last Thursday we crossed the Hudson in one of the steamers

constantly plying between the opposite shores and New York, and

took a delightful walk along the New Jersey shore to a place called

Hoboken, famous once as a dueling-ground, now the favorite resort

of a pacific society of _bon vivants_, who meet once a week to eat

turtle, or, as it is expressed on their cards of invitation, for

"spoon exercise." The distance from our landing-point to the place

where these meetings are held is about five miles, a charming walk

through a strip of forest-ground, which crowns the banks of the

river, gradually rising to a considerable height above it. We were

delighted with the vivid, various, and strange foliage of the

trees, the magnificent river, broad and blue as a lake, with its

high and richly wooded shore, and the sparkling, glittering town

opposite. We looked down to the Narrows, the defile through which

the waters of this noble estuary reach the Atlantic, and between

whose rocky walls two or three ships stood out against the

brilliant sky. The ebbing tide plashed on the rocks far below us,

and the warm grass through which we walked was alive with

grasshoppers, whose scarlet wings, suddenly unfolded when they

flew, made me take them for some strange species of butterfly. It

was all indescribably bright and joyous-looking, and the air of a

transparent clearness that was one of the most striking

characteristics of the whole scene, and one of the most

delightful.... [In discussing the relative merits of England and

America, Dr. Channing once said to me, "The earth is yours, but the

heavens are ours;" and I quite agree with him. I have never seen a

sky comparable, for splendor of color or translucent purity, to

that of the Northern States.]

I have been reading your favorite book, "Salmonia." ... I am rather

surprised at your liking it so very much, because, though the

descriptions are beautiful, and the natural history interesting,

and the philosophical and moral reflections scattered through it

delightful, yet there is so much that is purely technical about

fishing and its processes, and addressed only to the hook-and-line

fraternity, that I should not have thought it calculated to charm

you so greatly. However, you may have some associations connected

with it; liking is a very complex and many-motived thing....

We went through the fish and fruit markets the other day;

unfortunately it was rather late in the morning, and of course the

glory of the market was over, but yet there remained enough to

enchant us, with their abundant plenteousness of good things. The

fruit-market was beautiful; fruit-baskets half as high as I am,

placed in rows of a dozen, filled with peaches, and painted of a

bright vermilion color, which throws a ruddy becoming tint over the

downy fruit. It looked like something in the "Arabian Nights;"

heaps, literally heaps of melons, apples, pears, and wild grapes,

in the greatest profusion. I was enchanted with the beautiful

forms, bright colors, and fragrant smell, but I saw no flowers, and

I have seen hardly any since I have been here, which is rather a

grief to me....

Americans are the most extravagant people in the world, and flowers

are among them objects of the most lavish expenditure. The prices

paid for nosegays, wreaths, baskets, and devices of every sort of

hot-house plants, are incredible to any reasonable mind. At parties

and balls ladies are laden with costly nosegays which will not even

survive the evening's fatigue of carrying them. Dinner and luncheon

parties are adorned, not only with masses of exquisite bloom as

table ornaments, but by every lady's plate a magnificent nosegay of

hot-house flowers is placed; and I knew a lady who, wishing to

adorn her ballroom with rather more than usual floral magnificence,

had it hung round with garlands of white camellias and myosotis.

At the theater enormously expensive nosegays and huge baskets of

forced flowers are handed to the favorite performers from the front

of the house, till the ceremony becomes embarrassing, and almost

ridiculous for the object of the demonstration. The churches at

certain festivals are hung with draperies of costly hot-house

flowers; the communion-tables heaped with them. Weddings, of

course, are natural occasions for that species of ornament, but in

America funerals are as flowery as marriage-feasts; and I have seen

there in mid-winter, with the thermometer at fifteen degrees below

zero, large crosses, and hearts, and wreaths, made entirely of

rosebuds and lilies of the valley, as part of the solemnities of a

burial service; and a young girl who died in the flowerless season

was not only shrouded in blossoms, but as her coffin was carried to

the bosom of the wintry earth, a white pall of the finest material

was thrown over it, with a great cross of double forced violets,

almost the length of the coffin, laid on it. I have had as many as

a dozen huge baskets of camellias, violets, orange-flower, and

tuberose, at one time, in my room; perishable tokens of anonymous

public and private favor, the cost of which used to fill me with

dismay: and on one occasion a table of magnificent hot-house

flowers was sent to me, of such dimensions that both sides of the

street door had to be opened to admit it. When I have deplored the

inordinate amount of money lavished upon that which could only

impart pleasure for so brief a time, I have been answered, but not

converted from my feeling of disapprobation and regret, that the

gardeners profited by this wild extravagance. In New York I have

known a guinea paid for a gentleman's button-hole rosebud, and

three guineas for half a dozen sprays of lily of the valley.

Good-by, my dearest H----. I pray for you morning and night. Is not

that thinking of you, and loving you as best I can?

Your affectionate

F. A. K.

DEAREST H----,

... We are all pretty well, but all but devoured by multitudinous

and multivarious beasts of prey--birds, I suppose they are:

mosquitoes, ants, and flies, by day; and flies, fleas, and worse,

by night. The plagues of Egypt were a joke to it. We spend our

lives in murdering hecatombs of creeping and jumping things, and

vehemently slapping our own faces with intent to kill the flying

ones that incessantly buzz about one. It is rather a deplorable

existence, and reminds me of one of the most unpleasant circles in

Dante's "Hell," which I don't think could have been much worse. My

father began his work on Monday last with Hamlet. Dall and I went

into a private box to see him; he acted admirably, and looked

wonderfully young and handsome. The house was crammed, and the

audience, we were assured, was enthusiastic beyond all precedent.

On Tuesday I came out in Bianca; I was rather glad they had

appointed that part for my first, because it is one of my best; but

had not the genius of theatrical management made such a mere

monologue of the play as it has, I verily believe I should have

been "swamped" by my helpmate. My Fazio was an unhappy man who

played Romeo once with me in London, and failed utterly: moreover,

he had studied this part in a hurry, it seems, and did not know

three words of it, and was, besides, too frightened to profit by my

prompting. The only thing that seemed to occur to him was to go

down on his knees, which he did every five minutes. Once when I was

on mine, he dropped down suddenly exactly opposite to me, and there

we were, looking for all the world like one of those pious conjugal

_vis-à-vis_ that adorn antique tombs in our cathedrals. It really

was exceedingly absurd. But I looked and acted well, and the play

was very successful.... I was not nervous for my first night, till

my unhappy partner made me so. My dislike to the stage would really

render me indifferent to my own success, but that I am working for

my livelihood; my bread depends upon success, and that is a

realistic, if not an artistic, view of the case, of which I

acknowledge the importance....

Absolute and uncompromising vulgarity is really not very

objectionable; it is rather refreshing, indeed, for it is simple,

and, in that respect, rare. Vulgarity allied to pretension and the

affectation of fine manners is the only real vulgarity, and is an

intolerable thing. The plain rusticity, or even coarseness, of what

are called the lower classes, is infinitely preferable to the

assumption of _gentility_ of those a little above them in the

social scale. The artisan, or day-laborer, or common workman, is

apt to be a gentleman, compared with a certain well-to-do small

shopkeeper....

On Thursday, when I went to rehearse "Romeo and Juliet," I found

that the unfortunate Mr. Keppel was, by general desire, taken out

of Romeo, which my father was therefore called upon, for the first

time, to act with me. I was vexed at this every way. I was sorry

for the poor player, whose part, of course, was money to him; and

sorry for my father, who has the greatest objection to playing

Romeo, for which his age, of course, disqualifies him, however much

his excellent acting may tend to make one forget it; and I was

sorry for the public, who lost his admirable Mercutio, which I do

not think they were compensated for by his taking the other

part....

The steward of our ship, a black--a very intelligent, obliging,

respectable servant--came here the other morning to ask my father

for an order, at the same time adding that it must be for the

gallery, as people of color were not allowed to go into any other

part of the theater. Qu'en dis-tu? The prejudice against these

unfortunate people is, of course, incomprehensible to us. On board

ship, after giving that same man some trouble, Dall poured him out

a glass of wine, when we were having our dinner, whereupon the

captain looked at her with utter amazement, and I thought some

little contempt, and said, "Ah! one can tell by that that you are

not an American;" which sort of thing makes one feel rather glad

that one is not.

[This was in 1832, when slavery literally governed the United States. In

1874, when the Civil War had washed out slavery with the blood of free

men, the prejudice engendered by it governed them still to the following

degree. Going to the theater in Philadelphia one night, I desired my

servant, a perfectly respectable and decorous colored man, to go into

the house and see the performance. This, however, he did not succeed in

doing, being informed at all the entrance doors that persons of color

were not admitted to any part of the theater. At this same time, more

than half the State legislature of South Carolina were blacks. Moreover,

at this same time, colored children were not received into the public

schools of Philadelphia, though colored citizens were eligible, and in

some cases acted as members of the board of management of these very

schools. I talked of this outrageous inconsistent prejudice with some of

my friends; among others, the editor of a popular paper. They were all

loud in their condemnation of the state of things, but strongly of

opinion that to move at all in the matter would be highly inopportune

and injudicious. Time, they said, would settle all these questions; and,

without doubt, it will. Charles Sumner, who thought Time could afford to

have his elbow jogged about them, had just gone to his grave, leaving,

unfortunately, incomplete his bill of rights in behalf of the colored

citizens of the United States.

My servant was a citizen of the United States, having a vote, when he

was turned from the theater door as a person of color; and negroes had

been elected as Members of Congress at that very time. Strangely enough,

Philadelphia, once the seat of enthusiastic and self-devoted Quaker

abolitionism, the home of that noble and admirable woman, Lucretia Mott,

who stood heroically in its vanguard, is now one of the strongholds of

the most illiberal prejudice against the blacks.]

On Friday we acted "The School for Scandal." Our houses have been

very fine indeed, in spite of the intolerable heat of the

weather.... My ill-starred Fazio of Thursday night is making a

terrible stir in the papers, appealing to the public, and writing

long letters about his having merely studied the part to

accommodate me. "Hard case--unjust partiality--superior influence,"

etc., etc.--in short, an attempt at a little cabal, the effect of

which is that he has obtained leave to appear again to-morrow night

in Jaffier to my Belvidera. The poor man is under a strong mental

delusion, he cannot act in the least; however, we shall see what he

will do with "Venice Preserved." ...

Yesterday evening we dined with some English people who are staying

in this hotel, and met Dr. Wainwright, rector of the most

"fashionable" church in New York; a very agreeable, good, and

clever man, who expressed great delight at having an opportunity of

meeting us in private, as his congregation are so strait-laced that

he can neither call upon us nor invite us to his house, much less

set his foot in the theater. The probable consequence of any of

these enormities, it seems, would be deserted pews next Sunday, and

perhaps eventually the forced resignation of his cure of souls.

This is rather narrow minded, I think, for this free and

enlightened country. Think of my mother's dear old friend, Dr.

Hughes, and Milman, and Harness, and Dyce, and all our excellent

reverend friends and intimate acquaintance....

To-morrow we act "Venice Preserved," on Tuesday "Much Ado about

Nothing," Wednesday is a holiday, on Thursday, for my benefit, "The

Stranger," and on Friday "The Hunchback." On the 10th of next month

we act in Philadelphia, where we shall remain for a fortnight, and

then return here for a fortnight, after which we go on to Boston.

God bless you, dear! It is past twelve at night, and I have a

ten-o'clock rehearsal to-morrow morning.

Ever your affectionate

F. A. K.

PART OF LETTER TO MRS. JAMESON.

NEW YORK, September 30, 1832.

I am not sure that, upon the whole, our acting is not rather too

quiet--tame, I suppose they would call it--for our present public.

Ranting and raving in tragedy, and shrieks of unmeaning laughter in

comedy, are not, you know, precisely our style, and I am afraid our

audiences here may think us flat. I was informed by a friend of

mine who heard the remark, that one gentleman observed to another,

after seeing my father in "Venice Preserved," "Lord bless you! it's

nothing to Cooper's acting--nothing! Why, I've seen the

perspiration roll down his face like water when he played Pierre!

You didn't see Mr. Kemble put himself to half such pains!" Which

reminds me of the Frenchwoman's commendation to her neighbor of a

performance of Dupré, the great Paris tenor of his day: "Ah! ce

pauvre cher M. Dupré! ce brave homme! quel mal il se donne pour

chanter cela! Regardez donc, madame, il est tout en sueur!" But

this order of criticism, of course, may be met with anywhere; and

the stamp-and-stare-and-start-and-scream-school has had its

admirers all the world over since the days of Hamlet the Dane.

I have not seen much of either places or people yet.... This city

is picturesque and foreign-looking; trees are much intermixed with

the houses, among them a great many fine willows, and these,

together with the various colors of the houses, and the

irregularity of the streets and buildings, form constantly "little

bits" that would gladden the eye of a painter. The sky here is

beautiful; I find in it what you have seen in Italy, and I only in

Angerstein's Gallery, the orange sunsets of Claude Lorraine.

We leave New York for Philadelphia after next week, and shall

remain there three weeks.

I have read and noted much of your pretty book. There are one or

two points which shall "serve for sweet discourses" in our time to

come. I find great satisfaction in our discussions, for though I

may not often confess to being convinced by your arguments in our

differences (does any one ever do so?), I derive so much

information from them, that they are as profitable as pleasant to

me. Are you going to be busy with your pen soon again? Write me how

the world is going on yonder, and believe me ever truly yours,

F. A. K.

NEW YORK, September 30, 1832.

DEAREST H----,

... Perhaps, as you say, it is morbid to dwell as I do upon the

unreality of acting, because its tangible reality makes its

appearance duly every morning with the "returns" of the preceding

night; but I am not sure that it is morbid to consider wants

exaggerated and necessities unreal which render insufficient

earnings that would be ample for any one's real need. A livelihood,

of course, we could make in England.... You speak of all the

various strange things I am to see, and the amount of knowledge I

shall involuntarily acquire, by this residence in America; but you

know I am what Dr. Johnson would have considered disgracefully

"incurious," and the lazy intellectual indifference which induced

me to live in London by the very spring of the fountain of

knowledge without so much as stooping my lips to it, prevails with

me here.

[Our house in Great Russell Street, which was the last at the corner of

Montague Place, adjoined the British Museum, and has since been taken

into, or removed for (I don't know which), the new buildings of that

institution. Our friend Panizzi, the learned librarian, lived in the

house that stood where ours, formerly my uncle's, did. While we were

still living there, however, I was allowed a privileged entrance at all

times to the library, and am ashamed to think how seldom I availed

myself of so great a favor.]

Then, too, my profession occupies nearly the whole of my time; I

have rehearsals every day, and act four times a week; my

journalizing takes up a good deal of my leisure. Walking in the

heat we still have here fatigues me and hurts my feet very much,

especially when I have to stand at the theater all the evening.

Although I have been here a month, I have seen but little either of

places or people; the latter, you know, I nowhere affect, and my

distaste for the society of strangers must, of course, interfere

with my deriving information from them. Still, as you say, I must

inevitably see and learn much that is new to me, and I take

pleasure in the hope that when I return to you I shall be less

distressingly ignorant than you must often have found me....

I am very sorry my brother Henry and his men are going to be sent

upon so odious an errand as tithe-collecting must be in Ireland. I

trust in God he may meet with no mischief while fulfilling his

duty; I should be both to think of that comely-looking young thing

bruised or broken, maimed or murdered. I hardly think your savage

Irishers would have the heart to hurt him, he looks so like, what

indeed he is, a mere boy; but then, to be sure, his errand is not

one to recommend him to their mercy.

I have read Bryant's poetry, and like it very much. The general

spirit of it is admirable; it is all wholesome poetry, and some of

it is very beautiful.

I am going to get Graham's "History of the United States," and

Smith's "History of Virginia," to beguile my journey to

Philadelphia with. I can't fancy a savage woman marrying a

civilized man.... I suppose love might bring harmony out of the

discords of natures so dissimilar, but I think if I had been a wild

she-American, I should not have been tamed by one of the invading

race, my hunters. Pocahontas thought differently....

Are you acquainted with any of Daniel Webster's speeches? They are

very fine, eloquent, and powerful; and one that he delivered upon

the commemoration of the landing of the English exiles at Plymouth,

in many parts, magnificent. I was profoundly affected by it when my

father read it to us on board ship....

Bad as your mice, of which you complain so bitterly, may be, they

are civilized Christian creatures compared with the heathen swarms

with which we wage war incessantly here. Every evening, as soon as

the sun sets, clouds of mosquitoes begin their war-dance round us;

their sting is most venomous, and as my patience is not even

skin-deep, I tear myself like a maniac, and then, instead of oil,

pour aromatic vinegar into my wounds, and a very pretty species of

torture is produced by that means, I assure you. Besides these

winged devils, we have swarms of flies, which also bite and sting,

with a venomous rancor of which I should have thought their

frivolity incapable. Besides these, every cupboard and drawer in

our rooms is full of moths. Besides these, we have an army of

cantankerous fleas quartered upon us. Besides these, we have one

particular closet where we keep--our bugs, and where for the most

part, I am truly thankful to say, they keep themselves. Besides

these, we have two or three ants' nests in our bedroom, and

everything we look upon seems but a moving mass of these red,

long-legged, but always exemplary insects. These fellow-creatures

make one's life not worth much having, and I do nothing all day

long but sing the famous entomological chorus in "Faust;" and if

this goes on much longer, I feel as if I should take to buzzing. Do

you know that it is hard upon three o'clock in the morning? I must

leave off and go to bed, for I rehearse Constance to-morrow at

eleven, and act her to-morrow night. On Friday I act Bizarre in

"The Inconstant," and think I shall find it great fun.... God bless

you, dearest H----.

Ever your affectionate

F. A. K.

MANSION HOUSE, PHILADELPHIA, October 10, 1832.

DEAREST H----,

Do not let the date of this make any alteration in your way of

addressing your letters, which must still be "Park Theater, New

York;" for before this reaches you we shall probably have returned

thither; but I date particularly that you may follow us with your

mind's legs, and know where to find us. My dearest H----, in spite

of an often heavy heart, and my distaste for my present

surroundings, I have reason to be most grateful, and I trust I am

so, for the benefits which we have already derived from a visit to

this far world beyond the sea. The first and greatest of these is

the wonderful improvement in my dear father's health. He looks full

ten years younger than when last you saw him, and besides enjoying

better spirits from the absence of the many cares and anxieties and

vexations that weighed upon him daily in England, he says that he

is conscious since he came away of a great increase of absolute

muscular strength and vigor; and when he said this, I felt that my

share of the unpleasant duty of coming hither was already amply

repaid.... We have finished our first engagement at New York, which

was for twelve nights, and have every reason to be satisfied with

our financial, as well as professional, success. Living here is not

as cheap as we had been led to expect, but our earnings are very

considerable, and as we labor for these, it is matter of rejoicing

that we labor so satisfactorily.

Dall is very well, except the nuisance of a bad cold. I am very

well, without exception. The only unpleasant effect I feel from

this climate is a constant tendency to slight relaxation of the

throat, but this is nothing more than a trifling inconvenience,

very endurable, and which probably a little more seasoning will

remove.... I tell you of our health first, for at our distance from

each other that is the matter of greatest moment and anxiety....

I must tell you of our future arrangements; and, to begin like an

Irishwoman, we arrived here on Monday. My father acts to-night for

the first time, Hamlet; and I make my first appearance to-morrow in

"Fazio." We shall act here for three weeks, and then return to New

York for a month; after which we shall proceed to Boston, whence

look to receive volumes from me about Webster, and Channing, and

our friends and fellow-passengers, the H----s, who reside there.

I like this place better than New York; it has an air of greater

age. It has altogether a rather dull, sober, mellow hue, which is

more agreeable than the glaring newness of New York. There are one

or two fine public buildings, and the quantity of clean,

cool-looking white marble which they use both for their public

edifices and for the doorsteps of the private houses has a simple

and sumptuous appearance, which is pleasant. It is electioneering

time, and all last night the streets resounded with cheers and

shouts, and shone with bonfires. The present President, Jackson,

appears to be far from popular here, and though his own partisans

are determined, of course, to re-elect him if possible, a violent

struggle is likely to take place; and here already his opponent,

Henry Clay, who is the leader of the aristocratic party in the

United States, is said to have obtained the superiority over him.

I have got Graham's and Smith's "Histories," and though my time for

reading is anything but abundant, yet every night and morning I do

contrive, while brushing the outside of my head, to cram something

into the inside of it.

I cannot bear to give up any advantage which I once possessed, and

therefore struggle to keep up, in some degree, my music and

Italian. These, together with rehearsing every morning, and acting

four times a week, besides my journal, which I very seldom neglect,

make up a good deal of daily occupation. Then, one must sacrifice a

certain amount of time to the conventional waste of society,

receiving and returning visits, etc.... I like what I have read of

Graham very much; the matter is very interesting, and the spirit in

which it is treated; and I am deeply in love with Captain John

Smith, and wonder greatly at Pocahontas marrying anybody else. I

suppose, however, the savage was not without excuse; for Mary

Stuart, who knew something of these matters, says, with a rather

satirical glance at her cousin of England, "En ces sortes de

choses, la plus sage de nous toutes n'est qu'un peu moins sotte que

les autres."

I have been to my first rehearsal here to-day; the theater is

small, but pretty enough. The public has high pretensions to

considerable critical judgment and literary and dramatic taste, and

scouts the idea of being led by the opinion of New York.... It is

rather tiresome that fools are cut upon the same pattern all the

world over. What is the profit of traveling? Oh dear! I think my

Fazio has got St. Vitus's dance!...

Yesterday I tried some horses, which were rather terrible

quadrupeds. They were not ill-bred cattle to look at, and I should

think of a race that, with care and attention, might be brought to

considerable perfection; but they are never properly broken for the

saddle. The Americans who have spoken to me about riding say that

they do not like a horse to have what we consider proper paces, but

prefer a shambling sort of half-trot, half-canter, which they

judiciously call a rack, and which is the ugliest pace to behold,

and the most difficult to endure, possible. They never use a curb,

but ride their horses upon the snaffle entirely, dragging it as

tight as they can, and having the appearance of holding on for dear

life by it; so that the horse, in addition to the awkward gait I

have described, throws his head up, and pokes his nose out, and

with open jaws "devours the road" before him....

I acted here last night for the first time. Dall and my father say

that I received my reception very ungraciously. I am sure I am very

sorry, I did not mean to do so, but I really had not the heart or

the face to smile and look as pleased and pleasant as I can at a

parcel of strangers.... I was not well, or in spirits, and laboring

under a severe cold, which I acquired on board the steamboat that

brought down the Delaware.... Neither the Raritan nor the Delaware

struck me in any way except by their great width. These vast

streams naturally suggest the mighty resources which a country so

watered presents to the commercial enterprise of its inhabitants.

The breadth of these great rivers dwarfs their shores and makes

their banks appear flat and uninteresting, though the large

lake-like basins into which they occasionally expand are grand from

the mere extent and volume of the sweeping mass of waters.

The colors of the autumnal foliage are rich and beautiful beyond

imagination--crimson and gold, like a regal mantle, instead of the

sad russet cloak of our fading woods. I think, beautiful as this

is, that its gorgeousness takes away from the sweet solemnity that

makes the fall of the year pre-eminently the season of thoughtful

contemplation. Our autumn at home is mellow and harmonious, though

sometimes melancholy; but the brilliancy of this decay strikes one

sometimes with a sudden sadness, as if the whole world were dying

of consumption, with these glittering gleams and hectic flushes, a

mere deception of disease and death.... Good-by, my dearest H----

PHILADELPHIA, October 14, 1832.

DEAREST H----,

"Boston is a Yankee town, and so is Philadelphy;" considering

which, I assure you I find the latter quite a civilized place. The

above quotation is from "Yankee-doodle," the National Anthem of the

Americans, which I will sing to you some day when I am within

hearing.

We have just returned from church. Dall and I being too late this

morning for the service, which begins at half-past ten, sallied

forth in search of salvation this afternoon, and after wandering

about a little, entered a fine-looking church, which we found was a

Presbyterian place of worship.... The preaching to-day was

extemporaneous, and extremely feeble and commonplace, occasionally

reminding me of your eloquent friend at Skerries.... I shall try,

on my return to New York, to settle to some work in earnest, as I

hope there that we shall repeat the plays we have already acted,

and so need no rehearsals.... To-morrow I act Juliet to my father's

Romeo; he does it still most beautifully.... In spite of his acting

it with his own child (which puts a manifest absurdity on the very

face of it), the perfection of his art makes it more youthful,

graceful, ardent, and lover-like--a better Romeo, in short, than

the youngest pretender to it nowadays. It is certainly simple truth

when he says, "I am the youngest of that name, for lack of a

better," when the nurse asks for young Romeo.

Wednesday we act "The School for Scandal," and Friday "Venice

Preserved." So there's your play-bill....

At this moment a great political excitement pervades the country;

it is the time of the Presidential Election, and the most vehement

efforts are being made by the Democratic party to maintain the

present President, General Jackson, in his post. The majority, I

believe, is in his favor, though we are told that the "better

classes" (whatever that may mean where no distinctions of class

exist) embrace the cause of his opponent, Henry Clay.

It seems curious, if it is true, as we have been assured, that in

this one State of Pennsylvania, eight thousand persons out of fifty

who have the right of voting were all who in this last election

exercised it; so that the much-vaunted privilege of universal

suffrage does not seem to be highly prized where it is possessed.

From all the opinions that I hear expressed upon the subject, it

does not seem as though the system of election prevalent here works

much better, or is much freer from abuses, than the well-vilified

one which England has just been reforming. Bribery and corruption

are familiar here as elsewhere, to those who have, and those who

wish to have, power; and I have not yet heard a single American

speak of our Radical reformers without uplifted hands at what they

consider their folly in not "letting well alone," or, as they say,

in substituting one set of abuses for another, as they declare we

shall do if we adopt their vote by ballot system.

I have now written you a philosophical, moral, and political

letter, and beg you will score up my attempt to write rationally

against the loads of gibberish I have from time to time discoursed

to you. Good bless you, dearest H----! Three thousand miles away, I

am still

Always your affectionate

F. A. K.

PHILADELPHIA, October 22, 1832.

DEAR H----,

My first news is deplorable, and I beg you will lament over it

accordingly. I eat little, drink less, rehearse six mornings and

act five nights a week; in spite of all which, and riding a

heavy-going, jolting, shambling, hard-pulling horse, I have grown

so fat that I really cannot perceive that there is any shape in

particular about me. Grotesque things sometimes are melancholy too,

and it is so with me, for I am both....

My father and Dall are very well; at this moment he is busy saying,

and she hearing him say, the part of Fazio, which he is to act with

me to-morrow night. I dread it dreadfully; acting anything painful

with him always tries my nerves extremely.

Bianca is a part of terrible excitement in itself, without the

addition of having to act it to his Fazio. I cannot get rid of his

being he, and it agonizes me really to see his sham agony; however,

"'tis my vocation, Hal." It is very well that our audiences should

look at us as mere puppets, for could they sometimes see the real

feelings of those for whose false miseries their sympathies are

excited, I believe sufficiently in their humanity to think they

would kindly give us leave to leave off and go home. Ours is a very

strange trade, and I am sorry to say that every day increases my

distaste for it.... I do not think that during my father's life I

shall ever leave the stage; it is very selfish to feel regret at

this, I know, but it sometimes seems to me rather dreary to look

along my future years, and think that they will be devoted to labor

that I dislike and despise.... For many years--ever since I entered

upon my first girlhood, indeed--a quiet, lonely life upon a small

independence has been the aim of my desires and my notion of

happiness. Italy and the south of France formerly constantly

solicited my imagination, as offering pleasant places wherein to

build a solitary nest.... And now a cottage near Edinburgh, with an

income of two hundred a year, seems to me the most desirable of

earthly possessions; but, though this is certainly not a very wild

vision of wealth or magnificence, I fear it is quite as little

within my reach as southern palaces, or villas on the

Mediterranean.

My father has hitherto been able to lay by nothing, and my

assistance is absolutely necessary to him, ... and as long as I can

in any way serve my father's interests by remaining in my

profession I shall do so, and must naturally look forward to a

prolonged period of my present exertions. It is useless pondering

upon this, but I have been led to do so lately from a letter which

my father received from Mr. Bartley, the stage manager of Covent

Garden, the other day, which contained the plan of a new theatrical

speculation, in which he is most anxious to engage us. I know not

how my father feels upon this subject.... I, however, am well

determined that neither Mr. L----'s opinion, nor that of the whole

world besides, should induce me to own the value of a truss of

straw in any theater. My father's whole life has been given over to

trouble and anxiety in consequence of his proprietorship and

involvement in that ruinous concern, Covent Garden; and now, when

his remaining health and strength will no more than serve to lay up

the means of subsistence when health and strength are gone, the

idea of his loading himself with such a burden of bitterness as the

proprietorship of a new theater makes me perfectly miserable. For

my own part, I am determined to own neither part nor lot in any

such venture: I will lend or give anything that I may earn to it,

and I will act, at half the price I might get elsewhere, for it, if

my father wishes me to do so; but not a demonstrable cent per cent

profit should induce me to run such a risk of cursing the day that

I was born, as to become owner of a theater. I write you all this

(and I have written more than enough about it) because it has been

lately a subject of much anxious meditation to me. The matter is at

present without settled form or plan, but the proposal of such a

scheme has caused me deep regret and anxiety.... I am going to act

to-morrow in "The Hunchback;" Thursday, Mrs. Beverley; Friday, Lady

Townley; Saturday, Juliet; Monday, Julia again; and Tuesday,

Bizarre in "The Inconstant;" which ends our engagement here. This

is pretty hard work, is it not? besides always one, and sometimes

two rehearsals of a morning.

We begin our second engagement in New York on the 7th of November.

Don't forget that the 27th of that month is my birthday, and that

if you neglect to drink my health, I shall probably die, for want

of your good wishes to keep me alive.

We act in Boston on the 3d of December; "further than that the

deponent sayeth not."

I told you in my last letter that Philadelphia was the cleanest

place in the world. The country along the banks of the Schuylkill

(one of the rivers on which it stands; the other is the Delaware)

is wild and beautiful, and the glory of the autumn woods what an

eye that hath not seen can by no manner of means conceive. I have

for the last week had my room full of the most delicious flowers

that could only be seen with us at midsummer, and here, in these

last days of autumn, they are as abundant and fragrant, and the sun

is as intensely hot and brilliant, as it should be, but never is,

with us, in the month of July....

Dall went into a Quaker's shop here the other day, when, after

waiting upon her with the utmost attention and kindness, the master

of the shop said, "And how doth Fanny? I was in hopes she might

have wanted something; we should have great pleasure in attending

upon her." Was not that nice? So to-day I went thither, and bought

myself a lovely sober-colored gown. This place, as you know, is the

headquarters of Quakerdom, and all the enchanting nosegays come

from "a Philadelphia friend," the latter word dashed under, as if

to indicate a member of the religious fraternity always called by

that kindly title here....

I think my father has some idea of bringing out "The Star of

Seville" here, and if he does I shall break my heart that it was

not brought out first in England. Emily always reproaches me with

want of patriotism. I have more than helps to make me cheerful

here, and leaving England--not home, and not you, but England,

England--for two years, seems to me now ridiculous, and fabulous,

and preposterous, and disastrous.

I have finished my first volume of Graham, and I have finished this

letter. God bless you!

Ever your affectionate

F. A. K.

PHILADELPHIA, November 2, 1832.

DEAREST H----,

I received your fifth letter to-day, and one from Dorothy, and one

from Emily Fitzhugh.... My last letter to you was a sad one, and

sad in a fashion that does not often occur to me. I was troubled

and anxious about my professional labor and its results, and that

may be called a small sadness compared with some other with which I

have lately become familiar. Of course none of these anxieties have

been removed, for some time must elapse before I can know on what

plan my father determines with regard to Mr. Bartley's proposal

about this new theater. It does not affect me personally, because I

am thoroughly determined to take no part in any speculation of the

kind; but the possibility of my father entering into any such

scheme is care enough to "kill a cat," and make a kitten miserable

besides.... In all matters, but especially in matters of business,

I hold frankness, straightforwardness, and decision as conducive to

success, as consonant with right feeling; but I think men are much

more cowardly than women, and believe a great deal more in policy,

temporizing, and expediency than we do. "Managing" is supposed to

be a feminine tendency; it has no place in my composition; perhaps

I might be the better for a little of it--but only perhaps, and

only a little.... This letter, as you will perceive by its date,

was begun on the banks of the Delaware; here we are, however, once

more in New York. It is Monday evening, the 5th of November, and

you are firing squibs and burning manikins _en action de grâces_

that the Houses of Parliament were not blown up by the Roman

Catholics, instead of living to be reformed by the Whigs, and

(peradventure) blowing up the nation.

The Presidential Election is going on here, and creates immense

excitement. General Jackson, they say, will certainly be

re-elected.

Our last fortnight in Philadelphia has been one of incessant and

very hard work, rehearsing every morning and acting every night. I

rejoiced heartily when our engagement drew to a close, for I was

fairly worn out, and money bought with health is bought too dear, I

think.... I have taken some very pleasant rides during our stay in

Philadelphia; the horses are none of them properly broken for

riding, which makes it a pleasure of no small fatigue to ride them

for three or four hours. Luckily, I do not object to severe

exercise, and the weather and the country were both charming....

I am glad you have been re-reading the "Tempest." ... What

exquisite pleasure that fine creation has given me! I like it

better than any of the other plays; it is less "of the earth,

earthy" than any of the others; for though the "Midsummer Night's

Dream" is in some sort, as it were, its companion, the mortal

element in the latter poem is far less noble and lovely than in the

"Tempest." Prospero and Miranda, the dwellers on the enchanted

island, are statelier and fairer than any of the human wanderers in

the mazes of the Athenian wood. There is a deep and indescribable

melancholy to me in the "Tempest" that mingles throughout with its

beauty, and lends a special charm to it. I so often contemplate in

fancy that island, lost in the unknown seas, just in the hour of

its renewed solitude, after the departure of its "human mortal"

dwellers and visitors, when Prospero and his companions had bade

farewell to it, when Caliban was grunting and grubbing and

groveling in his favorite cave again, when Ariel was hovering like

a humming-bird over the flower draperies of the woods, where the

footprints of men were still stamped on the wet sand of the shining

shore, but their voices silent and their forms vanished, and utter

solitude, and a strange dream of the past, filling the haunts where

human life, its sin and sorrow, and joy and hope, and love and

hate, had breathed and palpitated, and were now forever gone. The

notion of that desert once, but now deserted, paradise, whose

flowers had looked up at Miranda, whose skies had shed wisdom on

Prospero, always seems to me full of melancholy. The girl's sweet

voice singing no more in the sunny, still noon, the grave, tender

converse of the father and child charming no more the solemn

eventide, the forsaken island dwells in my imagination as at once

desecrated and hallowed by its mortal sojourners; no longer savage

quite, and never to be civilized; the supernatural element

disturbed, the human element withdrawn; a sad, beautiful place,

stranger than any other in the world. Perhaps the sea went over it;

it has never been found since Shakespeare landed on it. I love that

poem beyond words....

I shall ruin you in postage; if there is any chance of that, keep

Mrs. Norton's five guineas to pay for my American epistles.

Ever your affectionate

F. A. K.

DEAREST H----,

I have received your letter, acknowledging my first to you.... As

for letters, they are like everything else we experience here,

sources of to the full as much suffering as satisfaction. Who has

not felt their whole blood run backward at sight of one of these

folded fate-bearers? I declare, breaking an envelope always has

something of the character of pulling a shower-bath string over

one's own head; I wonder anybody ever has the courage to do it....

Your dread of our finding New York quite a desert would have been

literally fulfilled had we reached it a fortnight sooner; but the

dreadful malady, the cholera, had taken its departure, and though

private bereavements and general stagnation of business rendered

the season a very unfavorable one for our experiment, yet, upon the

whole, we have every reason to be well satisfied with the result of

it, and think we did well not to postpone the beginning of our

campaign.... The first serious experiences of our youth seem to me

like the breaking asunder of some curious, beautiful, and mystical

pattern or device.... All our lives long we are more or less intent

on replacing the bright scattered fragments in their original

shape: most of us die with the bits still scattered round us--that

is to say, such of the bits as have not been ground into powder, or

soiled and defaced beyond recognition, in the life-process. The few

very wise find and place them in a coherent form at last, but it is

quite another curious, beautiful, and mystical device or pattern

from the original one.

The deaths of the young Napoleon, the Duke of Reichstadt, and

Walter Scott have excited universal interest here, naturally of a

very dissimilar kind. One's heart burns to think of that young

eagle falling like a weakly winter flower, or a faded, sickly girl,

into his untimely grave.... There was nothing for him but death. If

he had been anything, it could only have been a wild spark of the

mad meteor from which he sprang; and as Heaven in its wisdom

forbade that, I think it much of its mercy that it extinguished him

early and utterly, and did not leave him to flare and flicker and

burn himself out with foul gunpowder smoke, and smell of dead men

slain in battle, in the middle of the smoldering ashes of his

father's European empire.

My admiration and respect for Walter Scott are unbounded, and were

I the noblest, richest, and charmingest man in the world, I would

lay myself at Anne Scott's feet out of sheer love and veneration

for her father....

You ask me if I wrote anything on board ship? Nothing but odds and

ends of doggerel. Since I have been here I have written some verses

on the beautiful American autumn, which have been published with

commendation. I am thinking of writing a prose story, if ever again

I can get two minutes and a half of leisure.... Your entreaties for

minute details of our life make me sad, for how little of what we

do, be, or suffer can be conveyed to you in this miserable scrap of

paper!... Our dinner-hour is three when we are actors, five when we

are ladies and gentlemen. The food we get here in New York is very

indifferent. It was excellent in quality in Philadelphia, but

wherever we have been there is a want of niceness and refinement in

the cooking and serving everything that is very disagreeable....

Thursday, Nov. 27th. This is my birthday--in England always one of

the gloomiest days of this gloomy month; here my windows are all

open, and the warm sun streaming in as it might on the finest of

early September days with us. I am to-day three-and-twenty. Where

is my life gone to? As the child said, "Where does the light go

when the candle is out?" ... Since last I wrote to you I have been

forty miles up the Hudson, and seen such noble waters and beautiful

hills, such glory of color and magnificent breadth in the grand

river and its autumn woods, as I cannot describe.

This is our last night but one of acting here. We play "The

Hunchback" on Saturday, and on Monday go back to Philadelphia for

three weeks; thence to Baltimore and Washington, and then return

here. I must go now and rehearse Katharine and Petruchio.

I have just finished Graham's "History," and am beginning John

Smith. By the by, a gentleman here is writing a play, in which I am

to act Pocahontas and my father Captain Smith. Come out and see it,

won't you? Good-by, dear. Think always of your affectionate

F. A. K.

December 9, 1832.

MY DEAREST H----,

I received yours of October 16th yesterday.... You are not

healthily natured enough to be inconstant. Yours is one of those

morbid organizations for whom the present never does its wholesome,

proper office of superseding the past, and your thoughts and

feelings, your whole inner life, in short, is always out of

perspective, because your background is forever your foreground,

and with you, half the time, nothing is but what is not; not in

consequence of looking forward, like Macbeth, but the reverse.... I

am delighted that you are going to Scotland to know my dear Mrs.

Harry Siddons.

Before this letter reaches you, however, you will have returned to

your castle, and your visit to Edinburgh will be over.... Mercy on

me! what disputations you and Mr. Combe will have had--on matters

physiological, psychological, phrenological, and philosophical! My

brains ache to imagine them.... Spurzheim, you know, is dead lately

in Boston. It is a matter of regret to me not to have seen him, and

his death will be a grief to the Combes, who venerate him

highly.... Making trial of people is running a foolish risk, and

they who get disappointment by it reap the most probable result

from such experiments. I am quite willing to trust my friends; God

forbid I should ever try them!...

We have not yet been to Boston, and therefore I myself know nothing

of Channing, and cannot answer your questions about him. All that I

hear inclines me to like as well as respect him. His gentleness and

kindness, his weak health, brought on by over-study, his perfect

simplicity and unaffectedness--these are the usual details that

follow any mention of him, and accord with the impression his

writings produced upon me; but of his theological treatises I know

nothing.

I am glad anything so universal as the blessed sunshine reminds you

of me, because my remembrance must be present with you almost

daily. The lights of heaven shine more glowingly here than through

the misty veils that curtain our islands. The moon and stars are

wonderfully bright, and there is an intensity, an earnestness, and

a translucent purity in the sky here that delights me.... Four

months are already gone out of the two years we are to pass out of

England. Dear England! My heart dwells with affectionate pride upon

the beauty and greatness and goodness of my own country--that

wonderful little land, that mere morsel of earth as it seems on the

map--so full of power, of wealth, of intellectual vigor and moral

worth!...

I found Graham a little too much of a Republican for me, though his

"History" seemed to me upon the whole good and very impartial. I am

now half way through Smith's "Virginia," which pleases me by its

quaint old-world style. I am myself much inclined to be in love

with Captain Smith. A man who fights three Turks and carries their

heads on his shield is to me an admirable man....

I answer the propositions in your letters in regular rotation as

they come; and so, with regard to the peaches, those that I have

tasted on this side of the Atlantic I should say were not

comparable to fine hothouse peaches in England and fine French

espalier peaches; but then the peach trees here are standard trees,

and there are whole orchards of them. Their chief merit, therefore,

is their abundance, and some of that abundance is certainly fit for

nothing but to feed pigs withal. [It is by no means a luxury to be

despised, however, to have, in the American fashion, on a hot

summer's day, a deep plate presented to you full of peaches, cut up

like apples for a pie, that have been standing in ice, and are then

snowed over with sugar and frozen cream.]

We are now in Philadelphia, whence we go to Baltimore, Washington,

and Charleston. The Southern States are at this moment in a state

of violent excitement, which seems almost to threaten a dissolution

of the Union. The tariff question is the point of disagreement; and

as the interests of the North and South are in direct opposition on

this subject, there is no foretelling the end.

Our success is very great, and we have every reason to be satisfied

with and grateful for it. Our houses are full, and eke our pockets,

and we have hitherto managed to live in tolerable privacy and very

tolerable discomfort. But I believe the western part of the country

has yet to teach us the extent of inconvenience to which travelers

in America are sometimes liable. God bless you, dearest H----.

I am, ever yours affectionately,

F. A. K.

My father and I took a moonlight walk the other night, from ten

o'clock till half-past twelve, during which we neither of us

uttered six words.

BALTIMORE, January 2, 1833.

MY DEAREST H----,

You are the first to whom I date this new year.... I told you in

one of my letters to keep the five guineas Mrs. Norton has paid you

for my scribblements to pay the postage of my letters--do so....

We arrived in this place on Monday, at half-past four, having left

Philadelphia at six in the morning. We have just terminated a

second engagement there very successfully. If the roads and

carriages are bad, and the land-traveling altogether detestable,

the speed, facility, and convenience of the steamboats, by which

one may really be conveyed from one end to another of this world of

vast waters, are very admirable. Vast waters indeed they are! We

came down the Delaware on Monday, and (open your Irish eyes!)

sometimes it was six, sometimes thirteen miles wide, and never

narrower than three or four miles at any part of it that we saw. So

wide an expanse of fresh running water is in itself a fine object.

We crossed the narrow neck of land between the Delaware and the

Chesapeake on a railroad with one of Stephenson's engines....

The railroad was full of knots and dots, and jolting and jumping

and bumping and thumping places. The carriages we were in held

twelve people very uncomfortably. Baltimore itself, as far as I

have seen it, strikes me as a large, rambling, red-brick village on

the outskirts of one of our manufacturing towns, Birmingham or

Manchester. It covers an immense extent of ground, but there are

great gaps and vacancies in the middle of the streets, patches of

gravely ground, parcels of meadow land, and large vacant

spaces--which will all, no doubt, be covered with buildings in good

time, for it is growing daily and hourly--but which at present give

it an untidy, unfinished, straggling appearance.

While my father and I were exploring about together yesterday, we

came to a print-shop, whose window exhibited an engraving of

Reynolds's Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse, and Lawrence's picture

of my uncle John in Hamlet. We stopped before them, and my father

looked with a good deal of emotion at these beautiful

representations of his beautiful kindred, and it was a sort of sad

surprise to meet them in this other world where we are wandering,

aliens and strangers.

This is the newest-looking place we have yet visited, the youngest

in appearance in this young world; and I have experienced to-day a

disagreeable instance of its immature civilization, or at any rate

its small proficiency in the elegancies of life. I wanted to ride,

but although a horse was to be found, no such thing as a

side-saddle could be procured at any livery-stable or saddler's in

the town, so I have been obliged to give up my projected exercise.

I have been to my first rehearsal here this morning, and wretched

enough all things were. I act for the first time to-morrow night

Bianca, which they have everywhere chosen for my opening part; and

it is a good one for that purpose, as I generally act and look well

in it, and it is the sort of play that all sorts of people can

comprehend. There is a foreign--I mean continental--custom here,

which is pleasant. They have a _table d'hôte_ dinner at two

o'clock, and while it is going on a very tolerable band plays all

manner of Italian airs and German waltzes, and as there is a fine

long corridor into which my room-door opens, with a window at each

end, I have a very agreeable promenade, and take my exercise to

this musical accompaniment....

I have at this moment on my table a lovely nosegay--roses,

geraniums, rare heaths, and perfect white camellias. Our windows

are all wide open; the heat is intense, and the air that comes in

at them like a sirocco. It is unusual weather for the season even

here, and very unwholesome.

In a week's time we are going on to Washington, where we shall find

dear Washington Irving, whom I think I shall embrace, for England's

sake as well as his own. We have letters to the President, to whom

we are to be presented, and to his rival, Henry Clay, and to Daniel

Webster, whom I care more to know than either of the others.

After a short stay in Washington we return here, and then back to

Philadelphia and New York, till the 20th of February, after which

we sail for Charleston. There has been, and still exists at

present, a very considerable degree of political alarm and

excitement in this country, owing to the threat of the South

Carolinians to secede from the Union if the tariff is not annulled,

and the country is in hourly expectation of being involved in a

civil war. However, the prevailing opinion among the wise seems to

be that the Northern States will be obliged to give up the tariff,

as the only means of preserving the Union; and if matters come to a

peaceable settlement, we shall proceed in February to Charleston;

if not, South Carolina will have other things to think of besides

plays and play-actors. The summer we shall probably spend in

Canada; the winter perhaps in Jamaica, to which place we have

received a most pressing invitation from Lord Mulgrave. The end of

the ensuing spring will, I trust in God, see us embarked once more

for England....

We are earning money very fast, and though I think we work too

incessantly and too hard, yet, as every night we do not act is a

certain loss of so much out of my father's pocket, I do not like to

make many objections to it, although I think it is really not

unlikely to be detrimental to his own health and strength....

I spent yesterday evening with some very pleasant people here, who

are like old-fashioned English folk, the Catons, Lady Wellesley's

father and mother. They are just now in deep mourning for Mrs.

Caton's father, the venerable Mr. Carroll, who was upward of

ninety-five years old when he died, and was the last surviving

signer of the Declaration of Independence. I saw a lovely picture

by Lawrence of the eldest of the three beautiful sisters, the

daughters of Mrs. Caton, who have all married Englishmen of rank.

[The Marchioness of Wellesley, the Duchess of Leeds, and Lady

Stafford. The fashion of marrying in England seems to be

traditional in this family. Miss McTavish, niece of these ladies,

married Mr. Charles Howard, son of the Earl of Carlisle.]

The Baltimore women are celebrated for their beauty, and I think

they are the prettiest creatures I have ever seen as far as their

faces go; but they are short and thin, and have no figures at all,

either in height or breadth, and pinch their waists and feet most

cruelly, which certainly, considering how small they are by nature,

is a work of supererogation, and does not tend to produce in them a

state of grace.... We act every night this week, and as we are

obliged to rehearse every morning, of course I have no time for any

occupations but my strictly professional ones. I do not approve of

this quantity of hard work for either my father or myself, but I do

not like to make any further protest upon the subject....

Good-by, dearest H----.

I am ever your affectionate

F. A. K.

TO MRS. JAMESON.

BALTIMORE, January 11, 1833.

Thank you across the sea, dear Mrs. Jameson, for your letter of the

1st of November. I had been wondering, but the day before it

reached me, whether you had ever received one I wrote to you on my

first arrival in New York, or whether you were accusing me of

neglect, ingratitude, forgetfulness, and all the turpitudes that

the delay of a letter sometimes causes folk to give other folk

credit for. My occupations are incessant, or rather, I should say,

my occupation, for to my sorrow I have but one. 'Tis not with me

now as in the fortunate days when, after six rehearsals, a piece

ran, as the saying is, twenty nights, leaving me all the mornings

and three evenings in the week at my own disposal. Here we rush

from place to place, at each place have to drill a new set of

actors, and every night to act a different play; so that my days

are passed in dawdling about cold, dark stages, with blundering

actors who have not even had the conscience to study the words of

their parts, all the morning. All the afternoon I pin up ribbons

and feathers and flowers, and sort out theatrical adornments, and

all the evening I enchant audiences, prompt my fellow-mimes, and

wish it had pleased Heaven to make me a cabbage in a corner of a

Christian kitchen-garden in--well, say Hertfordshire, or any other

county of England; I am not particular as to the precise spot....

Whenever I can I get on horseback; it is the only pleasure I have

in this world; for my dancing days are drawing to a close. But I

mean to ride as long as I have a hand to hold a rein, or a leg to

put over a pommel. By the by, I ought to beg your pardon for the

last sentence; I ought to have said a foot to put into a stirrup;

for if you are not ashamed of having legs you ought to be--at

least, we are in this country, and never mention, or give the

slightest token of having such things, except by wearing very short

petticoats, which we don't consider objectionable.... I am glad you

have furbished up and completed your little room, because it is a

sign you mean to stay where you are, and I like to know where to

find you in my imagination.... I have just seen dear Washington

Irving, and it required all my sense of decent decorum to prevent

my throwing my arms round his neck, he looked so like a bit of

home, England.

You will be glad to hear that we are thriving, in body and estate.

We are all well, and our work is very successful. The people flock

to see us, and nothing can exceed the kindness which we meet with

everywhere and from everybody.... I read nothing whatever since I

am in this blessed land. The only books I have accomplished getting

through have been Graham's "History of North America,"

Knickerbocker's "History of New York," which nearly killed me with

laughing; "Contarini Fleming," which is very affected and very

clever; sundry cantos of Dante, sundry plays of Shakespeare, sundry

American poems [which are very good], and old Captain John Smith's

quaint "History of Virginia." As fast as I gather my wits together

for any steady occupation, I am whisked off to some new place, and

do not recover from one journey before I have to take another. The

roads here shake one's body, soul, thoughts, opinions, and

principles all to pieces; I assure you they are wicked roads.

Our theater, Covent Garden, is, we understand, going to the dogs. I

cannot help it any more, that is certain, and feel about that as

about all things that have had their day--it must go. Taglioni is

like a dream, and you must not abuse Mademoiselle Mars to me. I

never saw her but twice--in "L'Ecole des Vieillards" and

"Valérie"--and I thought her perfection in both.... If I do not

leave off, you will be blind for the next fortnight with reading

this crossed letter. I wish you success most heartily in all you

undertake, and am truly and faithfully yours,

FANNY KEMBLE.

[Washington Irving was intimately acquainted with my father and mother,

and a most kind and condescending friend to me. He often told me that

when first he went to England, long before authorship or celebrity had

dawned upon him, he was a member of a New York commercial house, on

whose affairs he was sent to Europe. It was when he was a mere obscure

young man of business in London that he had been introduced to my

mother, whose cordial kindness to him in his foreign isolation seemed to

have made a profound impression on him; for when I knew him, in the days

of his great literary celebrity and social success, he often referred to

it with the warmest expressions of gratitude. I think, of all the

distinguished persons I have known, he was one of the least affected by

the adulation and admiration of society. He remained quite unchanged by

his extreme social popularity. Simple, unaffected, unconstrained,

genial, kindly, and good, he seemed so entirely to forget his own

celebrity, that one almost forgot it too in talking to him. I remember

his coming, the day after my first appearance at Covent Garden, to see

us, and congratulated my parents on the success of that terrible

experiment. I, who was always delighted to see him, ran to fetch the

pretty new watch I had received from my father the night before, and

displayed its beauties with an eager desire for his admiration of them.

He took it and slowly turned it about, commending its fine workmanship

and pretty enamel and jewelry; then putting it to his ear, with a most

mischievous look of affected surprise, he exclaimed, as one does to a

child's watch, "Why, it goes, I declare!"

To my great regret and loss, I saw Mademoiselle Mars only in two parts,

when, in the autumn of her beauty and powers, she played a short

engagement in London. The grace, the charm, the loveliness, which she

retained far into middle age, were, even in their decline, enough to

justify all that her admirers said of her early incomparable

fascination. Her figure had grown large and her face become round, and

lost their fine outline and proportion; but the exquisite taste of her

dress and graceful dignity of her deportment, and sweet radiance of her

expressive countenance, were still indescribably charming; and the

voice, unrivaled in its fresh melodious brilliancy, and the pure and

perfect enunciation, were unimpaired, and sounded like the clear liquid

utterance of a young girl of sixteen. Her Celimène and her Elmire I

never had the good fortune to see, but can imagine, from her performance

of the heroine in Casimir de la Vigne's capital play of "L'Ecole des

Vieillards," how well she must have deserved her unrivaled reputation in

those parts.

It is remarkable that one of the most striking points in Madame d'Orval

was suggested by herself to the author. De la Vigne, according to the

frequent usage of French authors, was reading his piece to the great

actress, upon whom its success was mainly to depend, and when he came to

the scene where the offended but unjustly suspicious husband recounts to

his wife the details of his duel with the young duke whose attentions to

her had excited his jealousy, and that when, full of the tenderest

anxiety for his safety, she flies to meet him, and is repulsed by the

bitter irony of his speech, beginning, "Rassurez-vous, madame, le duc

n'est point blessé," Mademoiselle Mars, having listened in silence till

the end of D'Orval's speech, exclaimed, "Mais, quoi! je ne dis rien,

elle ne dit rien!" De la Vigne, who had made the young woman listen in

speechless anguish to the bitter and unjust reproach conveyed by her

husband's first words and his subsequent account of the duel, said, in

some surprise at Mademoiselle Mars' suggestion, "Mais quoi encore--que

peut-elle dire? que voudriez-vous qu'elle dise?" "Ah, quelquechose!"

cried Mademoiselle Mars, clasping her hands in the imagined distress of

the situation; "rien--deuxmots seulement. 'Ah, monsieur!' quand il dit,

'Rassurez-vous, madame, le duc n'est point blessé.'" "Eh bien! dites,

dites comme cela," cried De la Vigne, amazed at all the expression the

exquisite voice and face had given to the two words. And so the scene

was altered, and the long recital of D'Orval was broken by the

reproachful "Ah, monsieur!" of his wife, and seldom has the utterance of

such an insignificant exclamation affected those who heard it so keenly.

For myself, I never can forget the sudden, burning blush that spread

tingling to my shoulders at all the shame and mortification and anguish

conveyed in the pathetic protest of that "Ah, monsieur!" of Mademoiselle

Mars.

Dr. Gueneau de Mussy, who knew her well, and used to see her very

frequently in her later years of retirement from the stage, told me that

he had often heard her read, among other things, the whole play of "Le

Tartuffe," and that the coarse flippancy of the honest-hearted Dorinne,

and the stupid stolidity of the dupe Orgon, and the vulgar, gross,

sensual hypocrisy of the Tartuffe, were all rendered by her with the

same incomparable truth and effect as her own famous part of the heroine

of the piece, Elmire. On one of the very last occasions of her appearing

before her own Parisian audience, when she had passed the limit at which

it was possible for a woman of her advanced age to assume the appearance

of youth, the part she was playing requiring that she should exclaim "Je

suis jeune! je suis jolie!" a loud, solitary hiss protested against the

assertion with bitter significance. After an instant's consternation,

which held both the actors and audience silent, she added, with the

exquisite grace and dignity which survived the youth and beauty to which

she could no longer even pretend, "Je suis Mademoiselle Mars!" and the

whole house broke out in acclamations, and rang with the applause due to

what the incomparable artiste still was and the memory of all that she

had been.]

NEW YORK, February 21, 1833.

It is a long time since I have written to you, my dearest H----....

My work is incessant, ... and there is no end to the breathless

hurry of occupation we pass our days in. Here is already a break

since I began this letter, for we are now in Philadelphia, on our

way to Washington, and it is Thursday, the 3d of March.... It has

been matter of serious regret to me that I have not, from the very

first day of my becoming a worker for wages, looked more into the

details of my earnings and spendings. I have felt this particularly

lately from circumstances relative to V----'s position, which is a

very sad one, from which I have been very anxious to relieve

her.... All I know at present is, that since we have been here in

America our earnings have already been sufficient to enable us to

live in tolerably decent comfort on the Continent.... Do you know,

dearest H----, that it is not impossible that I may never return to

England to reside there. See it again, I will, please God to grant

me life and eyes, but the state of my father's property in Covent

Garden is such that it seems more than likely that he may never be

able to return to England without risking the little which these

last toilsome years will have enabled him to earn for the support

of his own and my mother's old age. He will be compelled, in all

likelihood, to settle and die abroad, as my uncle John did, by the

liabilities of that ruinous possession of theirs, the first theater

of London. When first my father communicated this chance to me, and

expressed his determination, should the affairs of the theater

remain in their present situation, to buy a small farm in Normandy,

and go and live there, my heart sank terribly. This was very

different from my girlish dream of a life of lonely independence

among the Alps, or by the Mediterranean; and the idea of living

entirely out of England seems to me now very sad for all of us....

However, there are earth and skies out of England. What does Imogen

say?--

"I prithee think, there's livers out of Britain;"

and if God vouchsafe me my faculties, and I can bid farewell to

this life of distasteful toil, I have visions of studies and

pursuits which I think might make existence very happy in a farm in

Normandy, though such might not have been my own choice.... What

special inquiries did you wish me to make about General Washington?

I was, when at Washington, within fifteen miles of Mount Vernon,

his home and burying-place, but could not make time to go thither.

I have one of his autograph letters, and if there be any indication

of character in handwriting--which I hope to goodness there is

not--it certainly exists in his, for a firmer, clearer, and fairer

hand I never saw--an excellent, honest handwriting. His likeness

confronts one at every corner here; not only at every street

corner, where he lends his countenance to the frequenters of

drinking-houses, but over every chimney-piece in every

sitting-room. He is like the frogs of the old Egyptian plague,

except that they were in the king's chamber, where he was too good

a Republican ever to have been.

I am amused at your summing up your account of the restless and

perturbed state of poor Ireland by saying, "After all, I believe

America is the land of peace and quiet." It seems to me, who am

here, that everything at this moment threatens change and

disintegration in this country. It is impossible to imagine more

menacing elements of discord and disunion than those which exist in

the opposite and antagonistic interests of its southern and

northern provinces, and the anomalous mixture of aristocratic

feeling and democratic institutions.... God bless you, my dear

H----. I will write to you soon again; if possible, before the

breathing-time this snow-storm is giving us is over.

Ever affectionately yours,

F. A. K.

NEW YORK, April 3, 1833.

MY DEAREST H----,

... I am working very hard, what with rehearsing, acting, studying

new parts, devising new dresses, and attending--which, of course, I

am obliged also to do--to the claims of the society in which we are

living, and my time is so full that I barely contrive to fulfill

all my duties and answer all the claims made upon me.... The spring

is in the sky, and in the air her soft smile and sweet breath are

gladdening the world; but the process of vegetation is much later

in beginning, and much more rapid in its operations when they do

begin here, than with us. Though the last three days have been as

hot as our midsummer weather, the trees are yet leafless and

budless--as dry and unpromising-looking as they were in mid-winter;

and, indeed, the transition from winter to summer is almost

instantaneous here. The spring does not stand coaxing and beckoning

the shy summer to the woods and fields as in our country, but while

winter yet seems lord of the ascendant, and his white robes are

still covering land and water, suddenly the summer looks down upon

the earth from the cloudless sky, and, as by magic, the ice melts,

the snow evaporates, the trees are clothed with green, the woods

are full of flowers, and the whole world breaks out into a

hallelujah of warmth, beauty, and blossoming like mid-July in our

deliberate climate. This again lasts, as it were, but a day; the

sun presently becomes so powerful that the world withers away under

the intense heat, the flowers and shrubs fade, and instead of

screening and refreshing the earth, are themselves scorched and

parched with the glaring fierceness of the sky; the ground cracks,

the watercourses dry up, the rivers shrink in their beds, and every

human creature that can flies from the lowlands and the cities to

go up into the north or to the mountains to find breath, shelter,

and refreshment from the sultry curse. Then comes the autumn, and

that is most glorious; not soft and sad as ours, but to the very

threshold of winter bright, warm, lovely, and gorgeous. Two seasons

remain to our earthly year, remembrances, I think, of Paradise; the

spring in Italy, and autumn in America....

You ask me how I "fit in" to my American audiences? Why, very

kindly indeed. At first they seemed to me rather cold, and I felt

this more with regard to my father than myself, but I think they

have grown to like us; I certainly have grown to like them, and

their applause satisfies me amply.... I heard yesterday of one of

Sir Thomas Lawrence's prints of me which was carried by a peddler

beyond the Alleghany Mountains [the Alleghany Mountains then were

further than the Rocky Mountains are now from the Atlantic

seaboard], and bought at an egregious price by a young engineer,

who with fifteen others went out there upon some railroad

construction business, were bidding for it at auction in that

wilderness, where they themselves were gazed at, as prodigies of

strange civilization, by the half-savage inhabitants of the region.

That touched and pleased me very much.... We are going to act here

till the 12th of this month, when we go to Boston, where we shall

remain for a month; after which we return here for a week, and then

proceed to Philadelphia by the 1st of June, where we intend closing

our professional labors for the summer. Thence we shall probably go

to Niagara and the Canadas. My father has talked of spending a

little quiet time in Rhode Island, where the weather is cool and we

might recruit a little; but there does not seem much certainty

about our plans at present. In the autumn we shall begin our

progress toward New Orleans, where we shall probably winter, and

act our way back here by the spring, when I hope and trust we shall

return to England.... The book of Harriet Martineau's which you

bade me read is delightful. I have not quite finished it yet, for I

have scarcely any time at all for reading; for want of the habit of

thinking and reading on such subjects I find the political economy

a little stiff now and then, though the clearness and simplicity

with which it is treated in this story are admirable. I did not

know that I was supposed to be the original of Letitia.... God

bless you, my dearest H----.

I am ever your most affectionate,

F. A. K.

"For Each and for All" was, I think, the name of the volume taken from

Miss Martineau's admirable series of political economy tales, which my

friend, Miss S----, sent me. The heroine of the story is a young

actress, and Miss Martineau once told me that she had derived some

slight suggestion of the character from me.

NEW YORK, Friday, April 10, 1833.

MY DEAREST H----,

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