ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDES
TO THE BATTLE-FIELDS.
BATTLE-FIELDS
OF
THE MARNE
1914
[Illustration]
Published:
in FRANCE; by +MICHELIN & Cⁱᵉ.+, Clermont-Ferrand.
in ENGLAND; by +MICHELIN TYRE Cº Lᵗᵈ.+,
81 Fulham Road, London, S.W.
in the U.S.A.; by +MICHELIN TIRE Cº+,
Milltown, New Jersey.
_For all Information and Advice_--
MOTORISTS MAY APPLY
TO THE 'BUREAU DE TOURISME MICHELIN'
99, Boulevard Pereire--PARIS
* * * * *
Hotels and Motor-agents.
[** 5 hotels symbol]Palatial and luxuriously appointed hotels.
[** 4 hotels symbol]Well-appointed, first-class hotels.
[** 3 hotels symbol]Comfortable hotels with modern improvements.
[** 2 hotels symbol]Well-managed hotels with good accommodation.
[** 1 hotel symbol]Hotels with good service for luncheon and dinner.
[** small hotel symbol]Small hotels or inns where good meals are
provided.
Compressed Air Depôt for 'bouteilles d'air Michelin' for inflation
of tyres.
[** wrench symbol] Repair shop.
_Agt de_ Manufacturer's Agent.
[** 3 symbol] Garage showing car capacity.
[** pit symbol] Repair Pit.
[** electric symbol] Electric installation for recharging accumulators.
[** phone symbol] 104 Telephone number.
[** telegraph symbol] Telegraphic address.
=MEAUX= (Seine-et-Marne).
[** 2 hotels symbol] de la Sirène, _34 r. St-Nicolas_. Ⓑ(wc) Gar
[** 3 symbol] Shed [** 5 symbol] [** telegraph symbol] Sirène [**
phone symbol] 83.
[** 1 hotel symbol] des Trois-Rois, _1 r. des Ursulines and 30 r.
St-Rémy_. (wc) Shed [** 4 symbol] Inner courtyard [** 10 symbol]
[** phone symbol] 146.
[** wrench symbol] =MICHELIN STOCK (Compressed Air) Garage Central
(A. Feillée)=, _17-21 r. du Grand-Cerf_. _Agt. de_: +Panhard+,
+Renault+, +de Dion+. [** 30 symbol] [** pit symbol] G Petrol
Depôt [** phone symbol] 59.
-- =MICHELIN STOCK Auto-Garage de Meaux (E. Vance)=, _55-57 pl. du
Marché_. _Agt de_: +Delahaye+. [** 20 symbol] [** pit symbol] G
[** electric symbol] [** phone symbol] 84.
=SENLIS= (Oise).
[** 3 hotels symbol] du Grand-Cerf, _47 r. de la République_.
Central heating [** dial symbol] Ⓑ (wc) Inner coach-house [** 6
symbol] [** pit symbol] [** telegraph symbol] Grandcerf [** phone
symbol] 111.
[** 1 hotel symbol] des Arènes, _30 r. de Beauvais_. (wc) Inner
coach-house [** 7 symbol] ott [** phone symbol] 17.
[** wrench symbol] =MICHELIN STOCK Guinot=, _8 pl. de la Halle_.
_Stock_: +de Dion+. _Agt de_: +Peugeot+. [** 3 symbol] [** pit
symbol] [** phone symbol] 46.
-- =MICHELIN STOCK L. Buat and A. Rémond=, _2 r. de Crépy_. _Agts
de_: +Panhard+, +Renault+, +Cottin-Desgouttes+, +Delahaye+,
+Rochet-Schneider+, +Mors+. [** 10 symbol] [** pit symbol] G [**
electric symbol] [** phone symbol] 38.
=CHANTILLY= (Oise).
[** 4 hotels symbol] du Grand-Condé, _av. de la Gare_. Closed
in 1917. Asc Central heating [** dial symbol] Ⓑ (wc) Gar [** 50
symbol] [** pit symbol] [** phone symbol] 52.
[** 3 hotels symbol] d'Angleterre, _r. de Paris and pl. de
l'Hôpital_. [** dial symbol] Ⓑ (wc) Inner shed [** 8 symbol] [**
phone symbol] 59.
[** 3 hotels symbol] Noguey's Family Hotel, _10 av. de la Gare_.
[** dial symbol] Ⓑ (wc) Inner coach-house [** 5 symbol] [** phone
symbol] 146.
[** wrench symbol] =MICHELIN STOCK Grigaut=, _72 r. du Connétable_.
[** phone symbol] 1.14.
-- =MICHELIN STOCK Garage Bourdeau=, _1 bis r. de Gouvieux_. [** 6
symbol] [** pit symbol] G [** electric symbol] [** phone symbol]
1.90.
=COULOMMIERS= (Seine-et-Marne).
[** 1 hotel symbol] du Soleil-Levant, _62 r. de Melun_. Central
heating, Inner coach-house [** 3 symbol] courtyard [** 15 symbol]
[** phone symbol] 22.
[** 1 hotel symbol] de l'Ours, _r. de Melun_. Central heating.
Inner coach-house [** 3 symbol] courtyard [** 10 symbol] [**
phone symbol] 27.
[** wrench symbol] =MICHELIN STOCK Doupé-Lejeune=, _42 r. de
Paris_. _Agt de_: +Panhard+, +Delage+, +Darracq+. [** 10 symbol]
[** pit symbol] Petrol Depôt [** electric symbol] [** phone
symbol] 92.
-- =Gautier=, _6 av. de la Ferté-sous-Jouarre_. _Agt de_:
+Peugeot+, +Vinot-Deguingand+, +de Dion+. [** 4 symbol] [** pit
symbol] Petrol Depôt [** phone symbol] 1.19.
-- =P. Fritsch=, _51 av. de Strasbourg_. _Agt de_: +Brasier+, +Le
Zèbre+. [** 6 symbol] [** pit symbol] Petrol Depôt.
-- =Purson=, cycles, _1 r. de Melun_. _Agt de_: +Clément-Bayard+.
[** 2 symbol] [** pit symbol] Petrol Depôt.
-- =A. Gontier=, cycles, _Le Martroy_.
-- =Doupé-Boucher=, cycles, _1 r. de la Ferté-sous-Jouarre_. Petrol
Depôt.
'OFFICE NATIONAL DU TOURISME'
_17, Rue de Surène, PARIS (VIIIᵉ)_
The 'Office National du Tourisme' was created by an Act of April 8,
1910, and reorganised in 1917. It enjoys civil privileges and financial
autonomy.
It is directed by an administrative council chosen by the Minister of
Public Works.
Its mission is to seek out every means of developing travel; to urge
and, if necessary, to take any measure capable of ameliorating the
condition of the transport, circulation and sojourn of tourists.
It co-ordinates the efforts of touring societies and industries,
encourages them in the execution of their programmes and stimulates
legislative and administrative initiative with regard to the
development of travel in France.
It promotes understanding between the public services, the great
transport companies, the 'Syndicats d'Initiative' and the 'Syndicats
Professionnels.'
It organises propaganda in foreign countries; and arranges for the
creation of travel enquiry offices in France and abroad, with a view
to making known the scenery and monuments of France as well as the
health-giving powers of French mineral waters, spas and bathing places.
* * * * *
ALL ENQUIRIES WITH REGARD TO TRAVELLING
SHOULD BE ADDRESSED
TO THE 'TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE'
65, Avenue de la Grande Armée, 65
PARIS
'THE TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE'
ADVANTAGES OF MEMBERSHIP
The 'Touring-Club de France' (founded in 1890), is at the present time
the largest touring association in the world. Its principal aim is
to introduce France--one of the loveliest countries on earth--to the
French people themselves and to tourists of other nations.
It seeks to develop travel in all its forms: on foot, horseback,
bicycle, in carriage, motor, yacht or railway, and, eventually, by
aeroplane.
Every member of the association receives a badge and an identity
ticket, free of charge, and also the 'Revue Mensuelle' every month.
Members have the benefit also of special prices in a certain number
of affiliated hotels; and this advantage holds good in the purchasing
of guide-books and Staff (Etat-major) maps, as well as those of the
'Ministère de l'Intérieur,' the T.C.F., etc. They may insert notices
regarding the sale or purchase of travelling requisites, in the 'Revue'
(1 fr. per line). The 'Comité de Contentieux' is ready to give them
council with regard to travelling, and 3,000 delegates in all the
principal towns are retained to give advice and information about
the curiosities of art or of nature of the neighbourhood, as well as
concerning the roads, hotels, motor-agents, garages, etc.
Members are accorded free passages across the frontier for a bicycle
or motor-bicycle. For a motor-car the association gives a 'Triptyque'
ensuring free passage through the 'douane,' etc.
* * * * *
TO TOUR FRANCE IN COMFORT JOIN
THE 'TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE'
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| |
| IN MEMORY OF THE MICHELIN EMPLOYEES AND WORKMEN WHO DIED |
| GLORIOUSLY FOR THEIR COUNTRY. |
| |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
THE MARNE
BATTLE-FIELDS
(1914)
[Illustration: JOFFRE
Commander-in-chief of the French Army]
Copyright 1919 by Michelin & Cie.
_All rights of translation, adaptation, or reproduction
(in part or whole) reserved in all countries._
FOREWORD
_For the benefit of tourists who wish to visit the battlefields and
mutilated towns of France we have tried to produce a work combining a
practical guide with a history._
_Such a visit should be a pilgrimage, not merely a journey across a
ravaged land. Seeing is not enough, one must understand: a ruin is more
moving when one knows what has caused it; a stretch of country which
might seem dull and uninteresting to the unenlightened eye, becomes
transformed at the thought of the battles which have raged there._
_We have, therefore, prefaced the description of our journeys by a
short account of the events which took place in the vicinity, and we
have done our best to make this account quite clear by the use of many
illustrations and maps._
_In the course of the description we give a brief military commentary
on the numerous views and panoramas contained in the book._
_When we come across a place that is interesting either from an
archæological or an artistic point of view, there we halt, even though
the war has passed it by; that the tourist may realise it was to
preserve intact this heritage of history and beauty that so many of our
heroes have fallen._
_Our readers will not find any attempt at literary effect in these
pages; the truth is too beautiful and tragic to be altered for the sake
of embellishing the story. We have, therefore, after carefully sifting
the great volume of evidence available, selected only that obtained
from official documents or from reliable eye-witnesses._
_This book was written before the end of the war, even then the
country over which it leads the reader had long been freed. The wealth
of illustration in this work allows the intending tourist to make a
preliminary trip in imagination, until such time as circumstances
permit of his undertaking a journey in reality beneath the sunny skies
of France._
HISTORICAL PART
IMPORTANT NOTE.--On pages 4 to 16 will be found a brief summarized
account of the Battle of the Marne and of the events which immediately
preceded it. We recommend the reading of these few pages attentively,
and the consultation of the maps annexed to the same, before reading
the descriptive part which commences at page 17.
A clear understanding of the action as a whole is absolutely necessary
to comprehend with interest the description of the separate combats.
[Illustration: THE BATTLE OF THE MARNE
(1914)]
The above map gives a general view of the ground on which took place
successively: the battle of the frontier, the retreat of the Allies,
the victorious stand, and the pursuit of the retreating enemy.
The distance from Paris to Verdun is 140 miles as the crow flies; from
Charleroi to the Marne is 97 miles.
In consequence of the tearing up of that fateful "scrap of paper"
which preceded the invasion of Belgium by Germany, in violation of
the common rights of man, the Battle of the Frontier (also called
the Battle of Charleroi) was fought in August 1914 on the line
Mons--Charleroi--Dinant--Saint-Hubert--Longwy--Metz.
[Illustration: MAUNOURY]
On August 22, 1914, and the two succeeding days this Allied
offensive failed at Charleroi, in consequence of which the French
Commander-in-chief, General Joffre, broke off contact with the enemy
and ordered a general retreat.
It was impossible to do otherwise as the enemy forces were greatly
superior in numbers. Moreover, they were well equipped with powerful
artillery and machine-guns, whereas the Franco-British forces were
short of both. Lastly, the German soldier had long been trained in
trench warfare, whereas the Allies had yet to learn this art.
To help in readjusting the balance between the opposing forces, Joffre
fell back in the direction of the French reserves.
The respite thus afforded was utilized to re-arrange the commands, and
to train the reserves in the form of warfare adopted by the Germans.
Meanwhile, the latter greatly extended their line of communications and
more or less tired themselves.
Then began that heroic retreat, without precedent in history, which
attained a depth of 122 miles, and in the course of which the Allied
soldiers, though already fatigued, marched as much as thirty miles a
day facing about from time to time and counter-attacking fiercely,
often with success.
The Germans followed in pursuit, overrunning the country like a plague
of locusts. Using their left wing as a pivot, their right undertook a
vast turning movement taking in Valenciennes, Cambrai, Péronne, and
Amiens.
By August 27 Joffre had fixed up a plan according to which the
offensive was to be taken again at the first favourable opportunity. In
view of the execution of this plan an important mass of troops, under
the orders of General Maunoury, was formed on the French left.
General Maunoury's task was to outflank at a given moment the German
right wing while, at the same time, a general attack, or at least
unflinching resistance, was to be made along the rest of the front.
This was the Allies' reply to the turning movement of the German
general Von Kluck.
A first line of resistance offered itself on the River Somme, where
fierce fighting took place. It was, however, realized that the
battle front could not be reformed there successfully. Joffre wanted
a flanking position not only for his left wing, but also for his
right, which the Somme line did not offer. He therefore continued the
withdrawal of the whole front towards the River Marne and Paris.
On September 3 German cavalry patrols were signalled at Ecouen, only
eight miles from the gates of Paris. The inhabitants of the latter
were asking themselves anxiously whether they, too, would not have
to face the horrors of a German occupation. The suspense was cruel.
Fortunately, a great man, General Gallieni, was silently watching over
their destinies.
This great soldier had just been made Military Governor of Paris, with
General Maunoury's Army, mentioned a moment ago, under his orders.
The entrenched camp of Paris and this army were, in turn, under the
authority of the French Commander-in-Chief, Joffre, who thus had full
liberty of action from Paris to Verdun.
On September 3 General Gallieni issued his stirring proclamation which
put soldiers and civilians alike on their mettle:
"_Armies of Paris, Inhabitants of Paris, the Government of the Republic
has left Paris to give a new impulse to the National Defence. I have
received orders to defend Paris against invasion. I shall do this to
the end._"
The temptation to push straight on to the long-coveted capital must
have been very great for the German High Command. However, in view of
the danger presented by the Franco-British forces, which were still
unbroken, it was eventually decided first to crush the Allied armies,
and then to march on Paris, which would fall like 'a ripe pear.'
[Illustration: GALLIENI]
Seemingly ignorant of Maunoury's existence, Von Kluck's Army slanted
off eastwards in pursuit of the British force, which it had received
orders from the Kaiser to exterminate and which it had been harrying
incessantly during its retreat from the Belgian frontier.
There will be heated arguments for many years to come as to whether the
German High Command was right or wrong in giving up the direct advance
on Paris, but whatever the consensus of expert opinion on the point
may eventually be, one thing is certain--Von Kluck did not expect the
furious attack by the Army of Paris, which followed.
Later, he declared: "There was only one general who, against all rules,
would have dared to carry the fight so far from his base. Unluckily for
me, that man was Gallieni."
On September 3, thanks to the Flying Corps, General Gallieni learned
of the change of direction taken by Von Kluck's Army. Realising the
possibilities which this offered, he suggested a flank attack by the
Army of Paris. As previously mentioned, such an attack formed part of
Joffre's general plan, matured on August 27. It was, however, necessary
that the attack should be not merely a local and temporary success,
as would have been the case on the Somme line for instance, where the
remainder of the front was not in a favourable position for resistance,
or attack.
On September 4, after conferring with General Gallieni, Joffre decided
that conditions were favourable for a new offensive, and fixed upon
September 6 as the date on which the decisive battle should be begun
along the whole front.
[Illustration]
SEPTEMBER 5, 1914
[Illustration: VON KLUCK]
The map before you shows the respective positions occupied by the
opposing armies on September 5, 1914, the eve of the great battle.
The Allied forces are represented by a thick black line, those of the
Germans by a black and white line.
Joffre directed the operations first from Bar-sur-Aube and afterwards
from Romilly.
As you see, the half-circle formed by the Allies, into which the
Germans imprudently penetrated, was supported at the western extremity
by the entrenched camp of Paris and at the eastern extremity by the
fortified position of Verdun. The River Marne flows through the middle.
Although the battle was only to begin on the 6th, General Maunoury's
Army was already engaged the day before. Its orders were to advance to
the River Ourcq (see map), but, despite furious fighting, it was unable
to get there.
The British forces were to occupy a line running north and south,
with Coulommiers as point of support. Unfortunately, the exceedingly
fatiguing retreat it had just accomplished, retarded the execution of
the necessary _volte-face_. The map shows them on the 5th, still far to
the south of Coulommiers.
The fact that neither of these two forces was able to take up its
assigned position greatly increased the difficulties of the turning
movement planned by Joffre.
In front of the forces under Maunoury and French, were the right and
centre of the First German Army, under Von Kluck.
The Fifth French Army, under General Franchet d'Esperey, whose position
extended from the north of Provins to Sézanne, delivered a frontal
attack against the left wing of Von Kluck's army and the right wing of
the Second German army under Von Bulow.
At the right of Franchet d'Esperey's army was the Ninth French Army
under General Foch, whose task it was to cover his neighbour on the
left by holding the issues south of the Marshes of St.-Gond.
Opposing Foch was the left of Von Bulow's army, with the right of the
Third German Army commanded by Von Hausen.
The Fourth French Army, under General Langle de Cary, was minus two
army corps which had helped to form Foch's army. This diminution of
the forces of the Fourth Army prevented the latter from breaking off
contact with the enemy. While, at the extreme left, General Maunoury
had already begun his advance towards the River Ourcq, General Langle
de Cary received orders to hold up the opposing forces under the
Duke of Wurtemberg. Unfortunately, Langle de Cary's forces had not
sufficient liberty of movement to effect the necessary _volte-face_.
At the extreme right of the Allied front was the Third French Army,
under General Sarrail, established in a position extending from
the north-east of Revigny to Verdun, with a reserve group to the
west of Saint-Mihiel, to be moved either east or west, according to
circumstances.
The forces opposing General Sarrail were commanded by the future
"War-Lord": the Crown Prince.
While the French were preparing to thrust back the invader, "War Lord
the Second," drunk with victory, ordered the pursuit to be continued as
far as the line Dijon--Besançon--Belfort: triumphal dreams destined to
give place first to surprise, then to uncertainty, and finally to the
bitterness of defeat.
Posterity will compare this arrogant order of the Crown Prince's with
the stirring proclamation which Joffre caused to be made known to the
whole of the French army on the eve of the great battle:
[Illustration: FRENCH]
[Illustration: DOUGLAS HAIG]
"_On the eve of the battle, on which the future of our country depends,
it is important to remind all that there must be no looking back. Every
effort mast be made to attack and drive back the enemy. Troops which
can no longer advance must at all costs keep the ground they have won,
and die rather than fall back. Under present circumstances no weakness
can be tolerated._"
SEPTEMBER 6, 1914
On this and the succeeding maps, the Allied positions of the previous
evening and at the end of the next day are shown.
The German positions are not shown, as too many lines might create
confusion in reading the maps.
Maunoury's Army effected an advance of about six miles, but his
left was unable to accomplish its task, which was to outflank the
German right. Von Kluck who, till then, seeming to ignore Maunoury
had concentrated all his efforts against the British and Franchet
d'Esperey's Army, now perceived this manœuvre. With the promptitude and
audacity which particularly marked his character, he completely changed
his plans and rounded on Maunoury. Taking advantage of the state of
extreme fatigue of the British forces, Von Kluck withdrew one of the
army corps which were facing them and despatched it by forced marches
to the help of his right wing. It was these unexpected reinforcements
which enabled Von Kluck to hold up Maunoury's left.
On this day the British army finally recovered itself, and reached a
line running from the north-west to the south-east of Coulommiers.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: FRANCHET D'ESPEREY]
The armies of Generals Franchet d'Esperey and Foch fought with great
stubbornness. The former wrested several dominating positions from
the Germans and approached Esternay, but the latter was able only to
maintain himself on the line of resistance assigned to him south of the
Marshes of Saint-Gond.
General Langle de Cary was eventually able to hold up the bulk of the
troops under the Duke of Wurtemberg on positions extending from the
south-west of Vitry-le-François to Revigny.
The general plan of operations included an attack by the Third Army,
under General Sarrail, against the German left wing, such attack to
coincide with that of General Maunoury at the other end of the line.
This was, however, anticipated by the Germans who, under the Crown
Prince, and in far greater numbers, forced back Sarrail's left and
prevented all progress on his right.
SEPTEMBER 7, 1914
On September 7, Maunoury's army began to feel the effects of the German
heavy artillery, established out of range of the French 75's, and could
advance but very slowly.
However, at the end of the day, Maunoury still hoped to be able to
outflank the German right. Meanwhile, Von Kluck continued his risky
manœuvre, and detached a second army corps from the forces opposed to
the British, adding it to his right. Each was endeavouring to outflank
the other.
Fronting the British, there was now only a thin curtain of troops taken
from two of the German army corps opposed to Franchet d'Esperey.
This small force fought with great stubbornness, in order, if possible,
to give Von Kluck time to crush Maunoury, before the advance by the
British and Franchet d'Esperey could become really dangerous.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: VON BULOW]
The slow progress effected in the British sector is explained by the
extreme fierceness of the struggle.
General Franchet d'Esperey took advantage of the reduction of the
forces opposed to him. Vigorously pushing back the latter, he continued
his advance northwards, eventually reaching and crossing the River
Grand Morin.
This advance helped to lessen the effects of the furious attacks that
the Germans were then making against General Foch's army.
In front of the latter, Von Bulow, whose armies were still intact,
realised the danger which threatened Von Kluck, and, in order to avert
it, endeavoured to pierce the French front. He concentrated the whole
of his efforts against the 42nd Division, under General Grossetti,
whose arduous mission it was to maintain the connection between the
Fifth and Ninth Armies, under Franchet d'Esperey and Foch respectively.
A terrific struggle followed, as a result of which Grossetti was forced
to fall back. Fortunately, as we have just seen, the right of Franchet
d'Esperey's Army was able, thanks to its advance, to come to the rescue
and prevent the French front from being pierced.
Before Von Hausen, the whole line fell back slightly.
Meanwhile, the Duke of Wurtemberg and the Crown Prince attacked
fiercely at the junction of the Fourth and Third French Armies under
Langle de Cary and Sarrail respectively.
The aim of the attack was to separate these two armies and force what
is known as the _Revigny Pass_. The latter is a hollow through which
flow the Rivers Ornain and Saulx, and the canal from the Marne to the
Rhine.
While the Germans under the Duke of Wurtemberg attacked the right of
Langle de Cary's army, in the direction of Saint-Dizier, the Crown
Prince sought to drive back General Sarrail's left towards Bar-le-Duc.
The resistance of Langle de Cary's army began to weaken under the
weight of the greater opposing forces. On the other hand, General
Sarrail's army reinforced by an army corps sent by Joffre stood firm.
At this juncture General Sarrail learned that the Germans were getting
very active in his rear, on the heights above the River Meuse, and was
accordingly obliged to make dispositions to avoid being surprised by
German forces who were preparing to cross the river.
SEPTEMBER 8, 1914
During the night of September 7-8 Gallieni, who had been following
carefully the different phases of the battle, despatched a division
from Paris, in all haste, to Maunoury's left to assist in turning the
German right.
To do this with maximum rapidity, Gallieni made use of an ingenious
expedient, "a civilian's idea," as he termed it. He commandeered all
the taxicabs in Paris. Those running in the streets were held up by the
police, and the occupants made to alight. When the latter learned the
reason, instead of grumbling, they gave a rousing cheer. Eleven hundred
taxis made the journey twice during the night from Paris to the front
transporting, in all, eleven thousand men.
Unfortunately, the effect of these reinforcements was fully
counterbalanced by the troops which Von Kluck had brought up on the
two previous days from before the British front, and only the extreme
tenacity and courage of his troops enabled Maunoury to avoid being
outflanked.
However, Von Kluck could not with impunity reduce his forces opposed to
the British. The latter pulled themselves together, crossed the Petit
Morin river and reached La Ferté-sous-Jouarre.
The danger feared by the German generals became apparent.
[Illustration: FOCH]
[Illustration: VON HAUSEN]
On this day of September 8, a German officer wrote in his notebook:
"_Caught sight of Von Kluck. His eyes usually so bright, were dull. He,
who was wont to be so alert, spoke in dejected tones. He was absolutely
depressed._"
At the right of the British army, General Franchet d'Esperey continued
his rapid advance and occupied the outskirts of Montmirail.
Moreover, his troops co-operated efficiently in helping to check the
violent attacks of Von Bulow's army against Grossetti's division.
The Germans became more and more anxious, and rightly so, at the turn
events were taking on their right where Von Kluck's army was beginning
to be tightly squeezed between the armies of General Maunoury, the
British and General Franchet d'Esperey. Von Kluck was forced to retreat
and, in doing so, left exposed Von Bulow's army. The armies of Von
Bulow and Von Hausen received orders to crush Foch and break through
the French centre at all costs, so as to be able to turn Franchet
d'Esperey's army on the west, and that of Langle de Cary on the east.
The position was this: If the manœuvre succeeded, Joffre's entire
plan would fall to pieces. If, on the other hand, it failed a general
retreat on the part of the Germans would be inevitable.
Foch's army received a terrible blow. It was forced back in the
centre, and almost pierced on the right. However, Foch in no wise lost
confidence, but pronounced the situation to be 'excellent.' The fact
was, he clearly realised that these furious attacks were dictated
by the desperate position in which the Germans found themselves. He
rallied his troops, hurled them again against the Germans, but was
unable to win back the ground which he had just lost.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: DE LANGLE DE CARY]
Von Hausen's fierce thrust also made itself felt on Langle de Gary's
left; the connection between the latter's army and Foch's was in great
danger of being severed, and could only be maintained by the rapid
displacement of troops, and by the intervention of a new army corps
despatched by Joffre just in time to restore the balance.
While Von Hausen was striking on the left, the Duke of Wurtemberg
brought all his weight to bear on Langle de Cary's right, with the
Crown Prince executing a similar manœuvre against Sarrail's left.
The German plan was still the same, viz., to separate the two armies
and, if possible, isolate Sarrail's army, so that the latter, attacked
at the same time in the rear on the heights above the Meuse, where the
Germans had begun to bombard the fort of Troyon, would find itself
encircled and be forced to surrender.
SEPTEMBER 9, 1914
On September 9, the battle reached its culminating point along the
whole front.
Under pressure from the right wing of Maunoury's army, and before
the menacing advance of the British forces which had reached
Château-Thierry, the Germans were obliged to withdraw from both banks
of the River Ourcq.
In order to make this retreat easier along the banks of the Ourcq Von
Kluck, at the end of the day, caused an extremely fierce attack to be
made against the French left, which bent beneath the shock and was
almost turned.
At that time, the situation was truly extraordinary: the Germans were
already retreating, while the French, stunned by the blow they had just
received, were in anxious doubt whether the morrow would not bring them
disaster.
The struggle seemed so hopeless, that orders were asked for, in view
of a possible retreat on Paris. However, General Gallieni refused to
consider this possibility and, faithful to Joffre's instructions, gave
orders to "_die rather than give way_." Maunoury's left continued
therefore its heroic resistance.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: GROSSETTI]
Von Kluck's retreat along the Ourcq left Von Bulow's army completely
unprotected, and he was, in turn, obliged to give way before Franchet
d'Esperey's left.
The latter continued to co-operate actively in the heroic resistance of
the French centre, by taking in the flank the enemy forces which were
furiously attacking Foch. This general became the objective of the last
and most furious attacks of Von Bulow and Von Hausen who, realizing
that should they fail they would be forced to continue the retreat
begun on their right, decided to make one more attempt to crush in the
French centre.
They very nearly succeeded; all along the line, the French were forced
to fall back, and the southern boundary of the Marshes of Saint-Gond
was entirely abandoned.
The position, to the east of Sézanne, seemed hopeless. It was there
that the loss of ground was most dangerous, and it is perhaps necessary
to explain in detail this critical phase of the battle.
On the large-scale map below is shown the position of Foch's left and
centre on September 8 and 9.
It was in the region of Villeneuve and Soisy that General Grossetti's
Division had fought so heroically for four days. Absolutely decimated,
it was replaced on the morning of the 9th by one of the neighbouring
army corps under Franchet d'Esperey. This corps advanced during the
day but, further to the right, the Germans forced back the French from
the Woods of Botrait and from the crest of the Poirier, capturing the
heights of Mondement.
Mondement is situated on a narrow plateau, the last counterfort before
reaching the vast plain of the Aube. On the opposite side of this
plateau are to be seen the villages of Allemant and Broyes.
[Illustration]
If the Germans, in possession of Mondement, had succeeded in reaching
these two villages on the day of the 9th, they would have attacked in
the rear those forces under Foch which were fighting in the plain.
Mondement had, therefore, to be held at all costs. Thus the battle
pivoted on this axis. In accordance with Foch's instructions, the
Moroccan Division under General Humbert, was placed there and, with the
help of the 77th Infantry, not only held its ground but, recapturing
the castle during the day, forced the Germans back on the Marshes in
the evening.
At the foot of the villages of Allemant and Broyes, the vast plain of
the Aube spreads itself out, and it was there that things were going
badly with Foch, the loss of ground being serious. The colonials
under General Humbert, who were hanging on grimly to the Plateau of
Mondement, could see their comrades on the right falling back as far
as Mount Chalmont, while the enemy fire reached successively Linthes
and Pleurs.
[Illustration: ALB. VON WURTEMBERG]
If the centre had given way completely, the defenders of Mondement
would have been taken in the rear, and obliged to abandon the plateau.
In other words, it would have meant complete defeat.
To avert this terrible danger, Foch had only Grossetti's Division
which, as mentioned a few moments ago, had been decimated by four days
of the fiercest fighting, and which he had that morning taken from his
left wing and sent to the rear to rest.
Foch recalled this division, and hurled it against the most critical
point of his line between Linthes and Pleurs. He hoped it would be in a
position to attack about noon, but at three in the afternoon it had not
yet been reformed. These were hours of mortal suspense along the whole
front.
General Grossetti needed all his energy to reform the scattered units
of his division, and his men, who were on their way to the rear to
rest, when they were again ordered into the thick of the battle, had
need of superhuman courage to carry out the long fatiguing flank march
of twelve miles, which was to bring them that afternoon to Foch's
centre.
Finally, at about four in the afternoon, Grossetti appeared on the
scene and the situation rapidly changed.
With what feelings of intense relief the defenders of Mondement must
have seen Grossetti's men moving eastwards to the attack and driving
the Germans back again behind Mount Chalmont. The enemy was literally
demoralized by this unexpected arrival of reinforcements.
The objective of Grossetti's attack was the junction of the armies of
Von Bulow and Von Hausen, viz.: the weakest point of the German front.
The German generals had at that time nothing with which to counter this
last effort of Foch's, and, realising that the battle was indeed lost,
began to make preparations for retreat.
[Illustration]
Just as Franchet d'Esperey had supported Foch energetically on his
left, so, throughout this fateful day, Langle de Cary helped him not
less effectually on his right, where he violently attacked Von Hausen.
However, in the centre and on the right, the troops of Langle de Cary
could not do more than hold their ground against the furious attacks of
the Duke of Wurtemberg's army.
[Illustration: SARRAIL]
[Illustration: CROWN PRINCE]
Sarrail, in turn, supported Langle de Cary, by operating with his
left against the flank of the German forces, which were pressing that
commander. Meanwhile, his right was in a critical position, owing to
the operations in his rear by German forces on the heights above the
Meuse. In spite of the danger, and although he had been authorized
by the commander-in-chief to withdraw his right so as to escape this
menace, Sarrail clung with dogged tenacity to Verdun: he would not
abandon his position, so long as the Meuse had not been crossed, and
while there was still the slightest hope of being able to hold out.
SEPTEMBER 10 to 13, 1914
The morning of the 10th witnessed a theatrical change of scene on the
French left, where it will be remembered Maunoury's army was in a most
critical position. After a night of anxious suspense, it was seen that
the Germans had abandoned their positions, and were retreating hastily
towards the north-east, to avoid being caught in the pincer-like jaws
formed by the Franco-British forces the previous day.
[Illustration]
Thus Paris and France were saved, as Von Kluck's retreat carried away
Von Bulow's army with it, and Franchet d'Esperey crossed the Marne.
Von Hausen's right followed suit, pursued by Foch. The troops of the
former had crossed the Marshes of St. Gond during the night to avoid
disaster.
Langle de Cary precipitated the retreat of Von Hausen's army. His
right, still under heavy pressure, was however obliged to fall back.
Here, the Germans were only held up by the increasingly effectual help
rendered by Sarrail's army. The latter withstood the furious attacks
of the Crown Prince without flinching, while on the heights above the
Meuse, the fort of Troyon, the heroic defence of which has since become
famous, withstood the terrible onslaughts of the enemy forces which
sought to cross the river.
It was only on the 11th that the Duke of Wurtemberg followed the
retreat begun on his right the day before, and it was only during the
night of the 12th-13th that the German retreat became general.
On the 13th the Germans reached their line of resistance, and, as will
be seen on the map before you, their front extended from Soissons to
Verdun, passing by Rheims. This map also shows the positions at the
beginning of the battle.
The foregoing sketch gives a general idea of the character of this
great battle, which has been called "The Miracle of the Marne," and for
the winning of which the following factors were responsible: firmness
on the part of the commander-in-chief; the clear and well-laid plan
which he caused to be executed by highly capable army commanders
working in close collaboration with one another; and, above all, the
superhuman courage and endurance of the soldiers.
As time passes, these memorable days stand out more and more
gloriously. The study in detail of this stupendous event will continue
for centuries hence, but its main lines, which we have been at pains
to trace, already stand out clearly. They recall all the old French
traditions. The clearness of the plan, the suppleness of manœuvre,
the bold use of the reserves, remind one of the Napoleonic era. The
enthusiasm which galvanized soldiers and chiefs alike dates back to the
Revolution. And going back into the remote past, it was the remembrance
of the arresting on the soil of Gaul of the great barbarian invasions
which inspired the Victory of the Marne.
[Illustration: MARSHAL JOFFRE]
TOURIST SECTION
For the greater convenience of tourists, we have divided our guide
to the Marne Battlefields into the following sub-divisions, which
correspond to the three main sectors of the battle:
1, =THE OURCQ=.--Visit to =Chantilly=, =Senlis=, and =Meaux=.
2, =THE MARSHES OF SAINT-GOND=.--Visit to =Coulommiers=, =Provins=, and
=Sézanne=.
3, =THE REVIGNY-PASS=.--Visit to =Châlons-sur-Marne=,
=Vitry-le-François=, and =Bar-le-Duc=.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
ITINERARY FOR MOTORISTS AND MOTOR-CYCLISTS
_This tour is comprised in the section 11-12 of the Michelin map,
Scale: 200,000 (see scale of kilometres on French map)._
The circuit is about 850 km. and can be covered in six days, i.e. two
days for each part:
Ourcq;
Marshes of Saint-Gond;
Pass of Revigny.
I., OURCQ.
=1st day.=--Leaving Paris in the morning through the Porte de la
Chapelle by N. 1 we cross Saint-Denis, then passing Pierrefitte turn to
the right by N. 16 which leads straight to Chantilly (34 km. from the
gates of Paris) through Ecouen, Le Mesnil-Aubry and Luzarches.
We visit the town (see pp. 22-36): lunch either at Chantilly (palatial
hotel) or at Senlis (good hotel) 9 km. from Chantilly; afternoon, visit
Senlis (pp. 39-67); dine sleep and at Senlis or Chantilly.
_Tourists who wish to see the whole of the Castle and Park of Chantilly
must choose a Thursday, Saturday, or Sunday (see p. 31) and devote a
part of the afternoon to this visit._
* * * * *
=2nd day.=--Leave Senlis or Chantilly in the morning and reach Meaux by
the route given on pp. 68-75. The distance from Senlis is 65 km. (by
the direct route only 37 km.); lunch at Meaux (good hotel).
+Afternoon.+--Do the tour of the Ourcq as indicated on pp. 84-118. This
tour may be increased from 53 to 92 km., according to the time the
traveller has at his disposal or the speed of his car.
Dine and sleep at Meaux.
* * * * *
=Alternate routes.=--Tourists who consider the second day's distance
too great, as planned above, can leave Senlis in the afternoon and thus
dine and sleep at Meaux on the first day. They can visit Meaux in the
morning of the second day, lunch there and make the tour of the Ourcq
in the afternoon, returning to dine and sleep at Meaux.
II., MARSHES OF SAINT-GOND.
=3rd day.=--After mounting the course of the Grand Morin as far as La
Ferté-Gaucher _via_ Crécy, Couilly and Coulommiers, the tourist will
lunch at Provins. In the afternoon he may visit the town, after which
he will proceed to Sézanne to pass the night. =4th day.=--In the
morning make the tour of the Marshes of Saint-Gond. In the afternoon
proceed to Fère-Champenoise, Sommesous, ascending the valley of the
Somme and spend the night at Châlons-sur-Marne.
III., PASS OF REVIGNY (273 km.)
=5th day.=--In the morning cover the distance from Châlons to
Vitry-le-François and visit the latter town before lunch.
After lunch leave Vitry for Bar-le-Duc where the tourist can dine and
sleep.
=6th day.=--In the morning the tourist may visit the lower town
Bar-le-Duc and effect the circular tour which we indicate round the
town. He will come back to Bar-le-Duc for lunch.
In the afternoon the tourist will visit the upper town proceeding
thence to Verdun. The latter town and the surrounding battlefields
should be visited with the help of the separate guide which has been
dedicated to them.
IMPORTANT NOTE
For details concerning hotels and garages see insides of cover.
[Illustration: PLAN OF TOUR DESCRIBED IN THE PRESENT GUIDE]
On the above plan, towns, of which a map is given in the present guide,
are shown by a circle enclosed in a small square; the large rectangles
indicate the boundaries of the coloured maps inserted in the guide, on
which the reader will be able to follow the itinerary.
I. THE OURCQ
VISIT TO THE LOCALITIES
in which were enacted the preliminary scenes of the
BATTLE OF THE OURCQ
from September 5 to 14, 1914
CHANTILLY
(See map on next page)
ORIGIN AND MAIN HISTORICAL FACTS
Chantilly derives its name from that of the Gallo-Roman _Cantilius_,
who was the first to establish himself in the locality. The Castle (a
fortress during the Middle Ages) passed to the family of Montmorency in
the fifteenth century and in the seventeenth to that of Condé. These
two illustrious families brought Chantilly to a height of splendour
which made it a rival of the royal residences.
In 1830 the Duc d'Aumale succeeded the last of the Condés and at his
death (1897) bequeathed the domain, with the Condé Museum, which he had
installed in the castle (_see pp. 24-35_), to the 'Institut de France.'
The town itself, built in the seventeenth century, was for a long time
dependent on the castle. In our day it has become a big centre for
horse training and racing, the great race meetings in May, July and
September attracting huge crowds.
CHANTILLY IN 1914-1916
The Germans, coming from Creil, entered Chantilly on September 3, 1914,
and occupied it for several days. The mayor was at once seized as
hostage but did not suffer the same tragic fate as the Mayor of Senlis.
The troops were billeted at the castle (_see p. 28_).
After the victory of the Marne, Chantilly became the seat of General
Joffre's headquarters and remained so until the end of 1916.
[Illustration: CHANTILLY]
VISIT TO THE TOWN
_Arriving by the Paris road the tourist will pass under the railway
bridge, then 600 yards further on turn to the right and come out on to
the "Pelouse" (Lawn). Turning round the Grand Condé Hotel on the left,
he follows the Boulevard d'Aumale as far as the =Maison de Joffre=,
shown in the photograph below_.
[Illustration: JOFFRE LEAVING GENERAL HEADQUARTERS]
Joffre lived here until he was made Marshal of France.
The hundreds of officers and secretaries employed in the tremendous
work incumbent on the Generalissimo were lodged in the Grand Condé
hotel, near which the tourist has just passed. In contrast with this
buzzing hive, Joffre's house seemed the embodiment of silence and
meditation.
Only two orderly officers lived with the generalissimo, and his door
was strictly forbidden to all unsummoned visitors, whoever they might
be.
On leaving his office Joffre had the daily relaxation of a walk in
the forest near by. It was thanks to the strict routine to which he
subjected himself that the generalissimo was able to carry the crushing
weight of his responsibility without faltering. We shall see, however,
when comparing the peace time photograph given _on p. 1_ with that _on
p. 22_ that these years of war have counted as double.
During the tragic hours of the Marne the general headquarters were
first at Bar-sur-Aube and then at Romilly. The commander-in-chief's
intense concentration of mind made him dumb and as though absent in the
midst of his colleagues, who received all his orders in writing. In a
few days his hair and moustache became perfectly white.
The Allies' grand councils of war were held in this house, which has
counted among its guests all the great actors of the war.
The military functions were held on the lawn. The photograph on the
next page was taken during a review.
_After having seen Joffre's house we pass the few villas which separate
it from the Rue d'Aumale and bear to the right, skirting the lawn;
next we turn to the left into the Avenue de Condé, then to the right
into the Rue du Connétable._ In front of the "Grandes Écuries" (great
stables), which border the extreme end of the road on the right,
stands the equestrian statue of the Duc d'Aumale, by Gérome (1899).
[Illustration: JOFFRE HOLDING A REVIEW ON THE LAWN]
_Leaving the church we turn to the right, passing through the
monumental gateway, and go towards the castle._ On the lawn (still
keeping to the right) we come to the principal façade of the "=Grandes
Écuries=", Jean Aubert's _chef-d'œuvre_, built between 1719 and 1740.
They are seen on the right in the above photograph.
On the opposite side of the lawn stands a little chapel, erected in
1535, by the high constable Anne de Montmorency, at the same time as
six others dotted here and there about Chantilly, in memory of the
seven churches of Rome which he had visited in order to obtain the
indulgences pertaining to this pilgrimage. He obtained the same grant
from the Pope for the chapels of Chantilly.
Of these only two now remain, that on the lawn--Sainte-Croix, and
another in the park--Saint-Paul.
The photograph below gives a view of the whole of the castle. The
little castle dates from the sixteenth century; the big castle is
the work of a contemporary architect, Daumet, who erected it on the
basement of the old dwelling, demolished during the Revolution. The
Castle of Enghien, built in the eighteenth century, is now occupied by
the guardians entrusted with its preservation. The water surrounding
the castle teems with centenarian carp. One can get bread from the
concierge and, on throwing a few crumbs into the moat, which passes
beneath the entrance bridge, watch the onrush of the huge fish.
[Illustration:
Little Castle
Chapel
Great Castle
The constable's Terrace
Porter's Lodge
Castle of Enghien
CASTLE OF CHANTILLY] In the pages which follow we give a short
historical account of the castle, referring the tourist for further
details to the extremely interesting work of the curator, Mr. Gustave
Macon: _Chantilly and the Condé Museum_.
SHORT HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE CASTLE