was washed on shore, and not being recognized, was buried in the sands,
but afterwards removed to Westminster Abbey, where there is a handsome
monument to his memory. It is to be regretted, that although it was
executed many years ago, when the art of sculpture had not arrived at
much perfection, it has been so much defaced by idle and mischievous
persons. When the fatal accident occurred, Sir Cloudesly was returning
with his squadron from Toulon; and in a thick fog on the night of the
22nd October, 1707, his ship (the Association) struck on the Gilstone
Rock, and sunk instantly, when every soul on board perished: the Eagle,
Captain Hancock, experienced a similar fate, and the Romney and
Fire-Brand were also lost, but their captains and 25 men were
fortunately rescued from a watery grave.
The civil government of the Scilly Islands is chiefly managed by 12 of
the most respectable inhabitants, who hold their meetings every month at
Heugh Town, where they mostly settle differences or disputes by
compromise: all criminal causes are referred to the military power.
ST. AGNES contains upwards of 300 inhabitants, and is situated about a
mile to the south-west of St. Mary’s. It is extremely pleasant, fertile,
and well cultivated, but is chiefly remarkable for its beautiful
light-house. This highly useful structure was completed about the year
1680, under the superintendance of Mr. Adam Walker, the celebrated
lecturer on natural and experimental philosophy; it is upwards of 60
feet high, and is built on a very elevated spot. The light is produced
by several parabolic reflectors of copper, plated with silver, and each
having an Argand’s lamp in its focus, supplied with oil from behind. The
frame in which the reflectors are disposed, stands perpendicularly to
the horizon, on a shaft united to a machine below, that turns the whole
round every two minutes; by this motion the light progressively sweeps
the whole horizon, and by its gradual intermission and increase, is
readily distinguished from any other; its brilliancy is also
extraordinary; and by these combined effects, its benefits are greatly
increased, as the seaman is at once rendered completely sensible of his
situation.[54] The charges attending the erection of this light-house,
were defrayed by the Trinity House; but all vessels passing it pay the
same rates as those received by the one on the Long Ships at the Land’s
End, except coasting vessels, which pay only a shilling each. There is a
small church on this island, the service of which is performed by a
minister, appointed and paid by the Society for Promoting Christian
Knowledge.
ST. MARTIN’S, which is situated about three miles eastward of St.
Mary’s, appears from the remains of the numerous enclosures which
intersect it in various places, to have been formerly well cultivated,
and it would in all probability have been entirely deserted, had not Mr.
Thomas Ekines, a respectable merchant of these islands, encouraged some
people to settle here about a century ago. This gentleman likewise
caused a tower and spire to be erected on it, as a land mark to seamen
passing this part of the channel. The inhabitants chiefly consist of
between 30 and 40 families, who are mostly related to each other, and
much attached to the place. They have also a church, the service of
which is performed by the minister appointed by the same Society, who
also officiates at Trescow and Bryher. Borlase has noticed a druidical
circle on this island; and from the several _barrows_ which are also to
be seen, concludes that not only this, but most of the other islands
were in former ages very populous, and the lands much cultivated. “The
barrows,”says that learned writer, “were all constructed in one manner;
the outer ring is composed of large stones pitched on end, and the heap
within consists of smaller stones, clay, and earth, mixed together: they
have generally a cavity of stone work in the middle, covered with flat
stones; but the barrows are of various dimensions; and the cavities,
which, being low, and covered with rubble, are scarcely apparent in
some, consist of such large materials in others, that they make the
principal figure in the whole monument.” Although he had several of them
opened, nothing of any consequence was discovered.
TRESCOW, which is situated two miles south-west of St. Mary’s, is only
about half the size of that island; although _Leland_ describes it as
the largest of the whole cluster. It is, however, chiefly remarkable for
having once possessed a monastery, some small remains of which are to be
seen in a very beautiful situation, near the borders of a lake,
separated from the sea by an ever-green bank. There are also the ruins
of several other buildings; but those belonging to the _Old Castle_,
which are situated on an eminence overlooking the harbour are most
extensive. “Some other fortifications are called _Oliver’s Castle_,
_Battery_, &c., in honor of Cromwell; though that called _Oliver’s
Castle_ seems to have been originally fortified many years prior to the
civil wars; about the conclusion of which, these islands were seized for
the king, by Sir John Grenville, who afterwards capitulated to Blake and
Sir George Ascough.
This event was chiefly effected through the judicious disposition of the
Parliament’s forces on this island, and on Bryher; which prevented
supplies being carried to St. Mary’s, where the King’s forces were
concentrated.”[55]
The number of inhabitants at _Dolphin Town_ amounts to about fifty
families, who live in about twenty small houses. Here is also a _Church_
and some _Tin Mines_; the latter, although of little value, are said to
be the only mines now to be seen on any of the islands. This
circumstance is the more singular, as the Scilly Islands have long been
noted for their _numerous mines_, and extensive trade with the
Phenecians, &c. Much has been said by _Borlase_ and other celebrated
writers respecting the great change which the islands have undergone;
not only in regard to antiquities, trade, extensive population, &c.; but
that it must be evident to those who are acquainted with the situation,
_all the changes_ have arisen from the continual encroachments made by
the sea, and violent tempests. The many shipwrecks which have also
occurred, have in a great measure prevented many persons from entering
into trade with them. It is the opinion also of a very eminent writer;
that the islands are undoubtedly undergoing a gradual diminution; and
that at no great distance of time, St. Mary’s will probably be divided
by the sea, and a channel formed through the low land, between the new
town and the south-east side of the garrison.
BRYHER or BREHAR, so called from its extreme mountainous position, is
situated to the west of Trescow, and contains little to interest the
tourist, except several barrows; the largest of which, situated on high
ground, is 77 feet in diameter. Borlase says, “within this barrow are
many _kistvaens_, as the Britons call stone cells; and many of the flat
stones which covered them, lie here and there; some keeping their first
station, and some being removed to make stands for shooting rabbits,
with which this part of the hill abounds.” The number of families now
resident in Brehar, do not exceed 20. At low water, the Sands between
this island and that of Trescow, may be crossed by foot passengers.
SAMPSON ISLAND is chiefly composed of two circular hills, connected by a
low rocky precipice. The inhabitants are but trifling compared to the
other islands, but it is noted by Borlase for containing several stone
barrows, some rock basins, a _kistraen_, &c.
After the conquest of the Scilly Islands by King Athelstan, they were
bestowed on several monks, and continued in their possession till the
reign of Henry I., who granted “to _Osbert_, one of the Abbots of
Tavistock,” all the churches of _Scilly_, with their appurtenances, and
the land, as the monks or hermits held it in the time of Edward the
Confessor, and Burgald, Bishop of Cornwall. “Prior to the reign of
Edward I., they appear to have reverted to the crown, being then held by
Ranulph de Blackminster, who paid annually, at Michaelmas, _a rental of
300 puffins, or six shillings and eight pence_.” In the reign of James
I., they were leased to Sir Francis Godolphin, and are now held by the
Duke of Leeds, on a lease for 31 years, granted in the year 1800, at an
annual rent of £40, with the option of a renewal on paying a fine of
£4000.
The climate of the Scilly Islands is reputed to be both milder, and more
equable than that of Cornwall; but the storms which occur, are more
sudden and violent. The natives are remarked for being a robust and
hardy race of people; but as a late celebrated writer[56] observes,
“were it not for the facility with which they obtain spirituous liquors,
they would live to an advanced age.”
They are mostly employed in maritime pursuits, and in making kelp from
the _Algæ_, which is disposed of to the Bristol merchants for the use of
the glass manufactories. The same writer also justly observes; “from a
combination, however, of unfortunate circumstances, in addition to the
fatal blow given to the smuggling trade by the activity of the
preventitive service, the inhabitants were reduced to such extreme
distress, that it became necessary in the year 1819, to appeal to the
generosity of the public in their behalf; and notwithstanding the great
difficulties of the times, the sum of £9000 was collected for their
relief: in this great work of charity it is but an act of justice to
state, that the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, by their
purse, as well as by their writings, performed a very essential service.
The funds thus obtained, were in part appropriated to the relief of the
immediate and pressing distress under which they laboured, while the
remainder was very judiciously applied towards the promotion of such
permanent advantages as might prevent the chance of its recurrence. A
fish cellar was accordingly provided in the island of Trescow, for the
purpose of storing and curing fish; boats adapted for the mackerel and
pilchard fisheries were purchased, and others were repaired; nets and
various kinds of tackling were also at the same time liberally supplied.
By such means have the inhabitants of these cheerless rocks been enabled
to avail themselves of some of the resources which Providence has placed
within their reach, and their families have been thus enabled to exist
without the dread of absolute starvation.”
Notwithstanding this relief, the fisheries of the Scilly Isles are
capable of much extension, and although the expense incident to the
necessary outfit would be considerable, yet the advantages to the
inhabitants would be incalculable. The importance of this subject has
been very ably brought to notice by the Rev. George Woodley, Missionary
from the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, and Minister of St.
Agnes and St. Martin’s, in his work on the State of the Scilly Islands,
which was published in the year 1822.
Various species of fish are to be caught by the hook and line at these
islands during the season, and which are salted by the inhabitants for
winter consumption.
A very curious fact is also noticed respecting the arrival of the
woodcock, in Scilly, that they are generally to be had there before any
other place in England. Owing to the great distance they are supposed to
have travelled, great numbers have been taken by the natives, from their
becoming exhausted; instances have also occurred of their falling dead
by striking against the light-house, the splendour of the lanthern no
doubt having attracted them!
To the geologist, the Scilly Islands present but little to interest; at
St. Mary’s are several beds of _porphyry_ and _clorite_ containing
pyrites; the former are deserving of attention on account of their
distinct appearance of stratification. The granite of the Lizard Point
at the Island of Trescow, the felspar of which is of a pure white, might
be advantageously employed in the China manufactories.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Appendix.
The interior of the _church_ of _St. Anthony_, which is situated on the
coast south of Falmouth, is highly deserving of notice from its style of
architecture, the arch separating the nave being a fine specimen of
Anglo-Norman workmanship.
In the parish of Luxilian is an immense pile of rocks, totally different
from the Roach Rocks, yet extremely well worth seeing; they are seated
on a considerable eminence, and many of the ponderous fragments have
rolled into the valley beneath, presenting altogether a very singular
appearance. In some places the stones very much resemble antient
cromlechs.
_Four-Hole Cross_ is situated about six miles on the right of the road
leading from Bodmin to Lanson, and is considered one of the most
interesting relics of antiquity in Cornwall; but the upper part, either
from age or other causes, is not perfect.
* * * * *
LIST OF THE PRESENT REPRESENTATIVES IN PARLIAMENT, FOR THE SEVERAL
BOROUGHS OF THE COUNTY OF CORNWALL, WITH THEIR RESPECTIVE
RESIDENCES.
BODMIN D. Gilbert, Esq., F.R. & L.S., Eastbourne. J. W. Croker, Esq.,
L.L.D., F.R., and L.S., Secretary to the Admiralty, &c.
BOSSINEY Sir C. Domville, Bart., Santry House, Dublin. John Stuart
Wortley, Esq., Wortley Hall, Yorkshire.
CALLINGTON Matthias Attwood, Esq., Banker. William Thompson, Esq., an
Alderman of London.
CAMELFORD Mark Milbank, Esq., Thorpe Hall, Yorkshire. Sheldon Cradock,
Esq., Hartforth, York.
CORNWALL Sir William Lemon, Bart., D.C.L., Carclew, near Truro. John
Hearle Tremayne, Esq., Heligan, Cornwall.
FOWEY Viscount Valetort, John Street, Berkeley Square. George Lucy,
Esq., Pall Mall.
HELSTON Lord J. N. B. B. Townsend. Harrington Hudson, Esq., Bessenby,
near Bridlington, Yorkshire.
LAUNCESTON James Brogden, Esq., Clapham, Surrey. Hon. Pownall Bastard
Pellew, R.N.
LISKEARD Hon. W. Eliot, now Earl St. Germains. Sir William Henry
Pringle.
EAST LOOE Thomas Potter Macqueen, Esq., Ridgmont House, Bucks. George
Watson Taylor, Esq., D.C.L., Earlstoke Park, Wilts.
WEST LOOE Sir C. Hulse, Bart., Breamere, Hants. Right Hon. Henry
Goulburn, 17, Upper Grosvenor Street.
LOSTWITHIEL Sir Robert Wigram, Knt. F.R.S., Belmont Lodge,
Worcestershire. Alexander C. Grant, Esq.
NEWPORT Jonathan Raine, Esq. Wm. Northey, Esq., Box Hall, Wilts.
ST. GERMAIN’S Hon. Seymour Thomas Bathurst. Right Hon. Charles
Arbuthnot, K.C.
ST. IVES Lyndon Evelyn, Esq. Sir Christopher Hawkins, Bart., Trewithan,
near Truro.
ST. MAWES Sir S. B. Moreland, Bart., Pall Mall. Joseph Phillimore, Esq.,
D.C.L.
ST. MICHELL Sir George Staunton, Bart., L.L.D. and F.R.S., Leigh Park,
Hants. William Taylor Money, Esq., Streatham Park, Surrey.
PENRYN Pascoe Grenfell, Esq., Taplow House, Bucks. R. Stanton, Esq.,
Colebook House.
SALTASH William Russell, Esq., Brancepeth Castle, near Durham.
TREGONY Viscount Barnard, Selby, Northamptonshire. James O’Callaghan,
Esq.
TRURO Sir Richard Hussey Vivian. William Gossett, Esq., Sackville
Street.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE LOGAN STONE OVERTURNED.
The following Letter to the Editor of the Annals of Philosophy is taken
from that work for May, 1824.
_Plymouth April 18, 1824._
“DEAR SIR,
Your geological readers will hear with infinite regret, that the
celebrated _Logan Stone_ in Cornwall, which has for so long a
period been regarded as an object of great national interest and
curiosity, and which has been visited by persons from the
remotest extremity of Europe, has within the last few days been
overturned by _one of the Lieutenants of his Majesty’s navy,
now_ commanding a revenue cutter, stationed between the Lizard
and Land’s End, assisted by a party of his men. The barbarous
and wanton folly which could induce an officer bearing his
Majesty’s commission to commit so unwarrantable an act, as to
remove a great national curiosity from a position in which it
had stood for ages, defying the hand of time, and affording to
the enlightened traveller an object of such singular interest,
will, it is hoped, be visited with the severest displeasure of
the Admiralty. In a tour through Cornwall in the summer of 1821,
I was informed by a cottager who lived near the spot, that an
attempt was made by a party of seamen some years before, to
remove it, but without success. Cornwall by this wanton outrage,
has lost one of its most interesting monuments.
I remain, dear Sir, yours very truly,
G. W. HARVEY.”
N. B. For a description of the Logan Stone, and an interesting view,
vide p. 61.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Footnootes
-----
Footnote 1:
If some of our most eminent Historical Painters were also employed to
paint Altar Pieces, for the several new churches now erecting in
London; it would be more beneficial to the Public, than the
expenditure of so many thousands upon useless and meretricious
ornaments: indeed some of the new buildings only tend to lessen the
fame of the architects employed to erect them!
Footnote 2:
A Poem, descriptive of the beauty of the scenery on the banks of this
river, has recently been written by Mr. T. N. Carrington, and
published at Plymouth.
Footnote 3:
Beauties of England and Wales for Cornwall.
Footnote 4:
Worgan’s Agricultural Survey.
Footnote 5:
“The glorie of Fowey,” says Leland, “rose by the warres in King
Edwarde the Firste and Thirde, and Harrey the 5 day, partely by the
feates of warre, partly by pyracie, and so waxing rich fell all to
Merchandize; so that the Towne was haunted with shippes of divers
Nations, and their shippes went to all Nations, it also appears by the
roll of the huge fleet of Edward the Thirde before Calice, inserted in
Hakaby’s Voyages that Fowey contributed 47 ships and 770 mariners,
being a greater number than came from any other port in England,
except Yarmouth.”—Carew in his time, speaking of the prosperous state
of Fowey, says, “I may not pass in silence the commendable deserts of
Master Rashleigh the elder, descended from a younger brother of an
ancient house in Devon, for his industrious judgment and adventuring
the Trade of Marchandize first opened a light and way to the townsmen
now thriving, and left his sonne large Wealth and possessions, who
together with daily bettering his estate, converteth the same to
hospitality and other actions befitting a Gentleman well affected to
his God, Prince and Country.”
Footnote 6:
Among the most remarkable specimens in this collection, are green
carbonate of lead with quartz, blende in twenty sided crystals and
green fleur in crystals; crystalized antimony, with red blende on
quartz, yellow copper ore with opal, and arseniate of copper, in cubes
of a bright green colour.—A very valuable work was published a few
years ago, entitled, “Specimens of British Minerals,” from this
collection, embellished with a number of fine plates, from drawings by
Underwood and Bone.
Footnote 7:
_Leland_ describes Restormel Castle as “sore defaced” in his time,
“the fair large dungeon” says he, “yet stondith, a chapel cast out of
it, a newer work than it, and now unrofid.”—_Carew_ says “certes it
may move compassion, that a palace so healthful for aire, so
delightful for prospect, so necessary for commodities, so fayre for
building, and so strong for defence, should in time of secure peace,
and under the protection of his natural princes, be wronged with those
spoylings, then which it could endure no greater at the hands of any
forayne and deadly enemy, &c.”—_Norden_ also says, “The whole Castle
beginneth to mourne, and to wringe out hard stones for teares; that
she that was imbraced, visited, and delighted with great princes, is
now desolate, forsaken, and forlorne: the Cannon needs not batter, nor
the pioneer to undermine, nor powder to blow up this so famous a pyle;
for time and tirrannie hath wrought her desolation, her water pipes of
lead gone, the planching rotten, the walls fallen downe, the fayre and
large chimnye pieces, and all that would yield monie or serve for use,
are converted to Men’s private purposes, and there remayneth a false
show of honor, not contentinge anie compassionate eye to behold her
lingrynge decayes. Men greyve to see the dying delayes of anie brute
creature, so may we mourne to see so stately a pyle so long a
fallinge, if it be of no use, the carcase would make some profit,
therefore if it deserve, let her fall be no longer delayde, else will
it drop peece meele downe, and her now profitable reliques will then
serve to little or no use.”
Footnote 8:
The celebrated _Tin Mine_, called _Polgooth_, about two miles
south-west of this town, has ceased working for many years, owing to
some disputes among its proprietors. The profits arising from this
mine is said by _Borlase_ to have been £20,000, for many years.
Footnote 9:
The inhabitants boast of the Tower as the handsomest in the county;
but an impartial observer will not surely prefer it to that of Probus,
though some parts of the sculptural ornaments of the former, surpass
considerably the latter.
Footnote 10:
Lyson’s Mag. Brit. Page 75.
Footnote 11:
In consequence of certain corrupt practices, a Bill has recently
passed Parliament, disfranchising this borough, and allowing two
additional members to be returned for the County of York.
Footnote 12:
Beauties of England and Wales for Cornwall, page 249.
Footnote 13:
Truro being one of the privileged coinage towns, more tin is exported
here than at any other port in the county: great quantities of copper
are also exported from hence to Swansea and Neath in Wales. The blocks
of tin lie in heaps about the streets, and are left entirely
unguarded, as their great weight renders the difficulty to remove them
so great, that it is never attempted.
Footnote 14:
Vide Beauties of England and Wales for Cornwall.
Footnote 15:
Lysons’s Mag. Brit. page 121.
Footnote 16:
A very correct plan of this harbour is inserted in Gilbert’s History
of Cornwall.
Footnote 17:
“Heylstoun, alias Hellas” says _Leland_, “standeth on a hill, a good
Market towne, having a Mayor and privileges, wythin the which there is
a Court for the Coinage of Tynne, kept twys in the Year. Yn the towne
is both a Chapel and a paroch (Church) and vestegia castelli, and a
ryver runnyng under the same vestegia of the Castel issueth towards
The South Sea, stopped them yn the west part, with S. E. wyndes,
casting up sandes maketh a poole, called _Loo_, of an arrow shot in
breadth, and two myles yn compus yn the Somer. In the wynter, by
reason of fluddes, men be constrayned to cut the sandy banke, between
the Mouth of the Poole and the Sea, by the which gut the Sea floweth
and ebbeth ynto the Poole.—Loo Poole is two mile in length, and
betwixt it and the mayne Sea is but a barre of sand, and once in three
or four year what by the wait of the fresh watier and rage of the Sea,
it bubleth out, and then the fresh and Salt Water meeting maketh a
Wonderful Noise. If this barre be always kept open it would be a good
haven up to Hailston.”
Footnote 18:
See page 5.
Footnote 19:
Its matrix is an hard turpentine rock, in which it lies imbedded in
veins or lobes, almost ductile when first dug out, but gradually
indurating when exposed to the air, though always retaining its
unctious feel. A considerable quantity has been used in the
manufacture of china, but not for some time past.
Footnote 20:
In Lyson’s Mag. Brit. is a beautiful etching of Kynan’s Cove, by Miss
Letitia Byrne.
Footnote 21:
The winters of 1809 and 1817, were particularly fatal to our shipping;
and among others, the Anson Frigate was lost near Portleaven, when
most of her brave crew were swallowed up by the ocean.—The Primrose
Sloop of War, was lost near Gunwalloc Cove, and all on board perished,
except a poor Irish boy.—On the same night, was lost off the Cove of
Loverith, a transport, when only eight men escaped a watery grave!
Footnote 22:
One of which, an equestrian portrait of Charles I. on horseback, was
presented to the family by Charles II., in consideration of the great
attachment, sufferings, and heavy losses sustained in his support.
Footnote 23:
Beauties of England and Wales for Cornwall.
Footnote 24: