LOCAL TRADITIONS, Etc.
LLANDDEWI BREFI.
This parish is celebrated for its legendary lore; and no wonder for
it is a spot of great historic interest.
There is a tradition current in the neighbourhood to the effect that
it was originally intended to build the Church of Llanddewi Brefi in a
field on Godregarth farm, and that the work was actually commenced on
that spot, but the attempt to build there was constantly frustrated,
for that which was set up during the day was pulled down in the night
by a Spirit, and all the material removed or carried to the spot where
the Parish Church now stands. The field pointed out by tradition is
about a mile away from the village, and yew trees are still to be
seen there.
According to another most ancient tradition, when the Church was
in process of construction, two oxen known as the "Ychain Bannog"
were employed to draw the stone required for the building. The load
was so heavy that one of the two oxen died in the attempt to drag
it forward; but before falling down dead he bellowed nine times,
and so powerful was the echo that the hill, which before presented
itself as an obstacle, divided or split in two. The other ox alone
was then able to bring the load unassisted to the site of the Church.
"Llanddewi Brefi fraith,
Lle brefodd yr ych naw gwaith,
Nos hollti craig y Foelallt."
(Llanddewi Brefi the spotted,
Where the ox bellowed nine times,
Till Foelallt rock split in two.)
According to another version of the story, it was the ox which survived
was the one that bellowed, and not the one that died. According to
another story given in Meyrick's History of Cardiganshire, these
two Bannog Oxen were on one occasion used to draw "away a monstrous
beaver dead"; but this is only a version of a legend which is to be
found in several parts of Wales, and is founded on the older story
of Hu Gadarn, or Hu the Mighty, who, with his Bannog Oxen, drew to
land the avanc out of Llyn Llion, so that the lake burst out no more
to deluge the earth. See "Legend of Llyn y ddau Ychain" in Folk-Lore
of North Wales, by the late Rev. E. Owen, page 132.
The two Ychain Bannog of Llanddewi were sometimes called "dau ychain
Dewi" (St. David's two oxen). In a poem written in the Twelfth Century,
the Welsh Bard Gwynfardd Brycheiniog alludes to the old tradition
as follows:--
"Dau ychan Dewi, deu odidawe,
Dodyssant eu gwar dan garr kynawe,
Dau ychen Dewi ardderchawe oeddynt."
There used to be preserved at Llanddewi Church a remarkable fragment
of a horn called "Madcorn yr Ych Bannog," that is, the core of the
Bannog Ox's Morn, which, according to tradition, had been kept there
as a valuable relic ever since the time of St. David. This horn is
now at Llidiardau, Llanilar, kept privately. It has been pronounced
by Professor Boyd Dawkins to have belonged to "the great urns (Bos
Primigenius) that Charlemagne hunted in the forest of Aachen, and
the Monks of St. Galle ate on their feast days."
When St. David was preaching at Llanddewi at the great Synod, in
the year 519, it is said that the ground on which he stood rose up
and formed a hillock under his feet. Cressy recounts the miracle in
the following words:--"When all the fathers assembled enjoined David
to preach, he commanded a child which attended him, and had lately
been restored to life by him, to spread a napkin under his feet; and,
standing upon it, he began to expound the Gospel and the law to the
auditory. All the while that this oration continued, a snow-white
dove, descending from Heaven, sate upon his shoulders; and, moreover,
the earth, on which he stood raised itself under him till it became
a hill, from whence his voice, like a trumpet, was clearly heard and
understood by all, both near and far off, on the top of which hill
a church was afterwards built, and remains to this day."
The people of Llanddewi Brefi told me that there is another tradition
still extant in the neighbourhood, which says that as St. David
was preaching on this great occasion, a nightingale appeared on the
spot, and sang. The music of the bird was so sweet, that the people
listened to the nightingale's song, instead of continuing to give
their attention to the sermon. Seeing this, the Holy Saint David
rebuked the congregation, and informed them that the nightingale
should never again sing in the neighbourhood; and from that day
till now the bird has never been heard there. According to the
great historian George Owen, there is a different version of this
story in Pembrokeshire. "St. David, being seriouse occupied in the
night tyme in his divine orizons, was so troubled with the sweete
tuninges of the nightingales, as that he could not fasten his minde
upon heavenlie cogitacions, as at other tymes, being letted (hindered)
by the melodie of the bird, praied unto the Almightie, that from that
tyme forward there might never a nightingale sing within his Dioces,
and this saieth our women (old wives' fables), was the cause of
confininge of the bird out of this country."
At Llanio Isaf, in the parish of Llanddewi Brefi are the remains
of Loventium, which was a large Roman city. About half a mile from
Gogoyan, in the same parish, was once a holy well called Ffynon Ddewi,
or St. David's Well, the water of which, according to tradition,
flowed up miraculously when St. David restored to life the son of a
widow. The well has now been closed up, and a house stands on the
spot. There is another "Ffynon Ddewi," on the road-side between
Aberaeron and Cardigan.
CAIO (CARMARTHENSHIRE).
In the parish of Caio, there is a gold mine which in ancient times
was worked by the Romans. It is on the estate of Dolaucothy, and the
spot is known as the "Ogofau," or caves, and part of it is a height,
hardly a mountain, that has been scooped out like a volcanic crater by
the Romans during their occupation. In this hollow or basin it is said
that the five saints named Ceitho, Gwyn, Gwynno, Gwynnoro, and Celynin,
who flourished in the sixth century, had retired in a thunderstorm
for shelter. They had penetrated into the mine and had lost their
way, and taking a stone for a bolster had laid their heads on it and
fallen asleep. And there they would remain in peaceful slumber till the
return of King Arthur, or till a more godly bishop than has hitherto
been should occupy the throne of St. David. When that happens, Merlin
himself is to be disenchanted and restore to liberty the dormant
saints. An inquisitive woman named Gweno, who, led by the devil,
sought to spy on the saintly brotherhood in their long sleep, was
punished by losing her way in the passage of the mine. She, likewise,
remained in an undying condition, but was suffered to emerge in storm
and rain, and in the night, when her vaporous form might be seen about
the old Ogofau, and her sobs and moans were heard and frightened many.
Mr. F. S. Price, in his interesting "History of Caio," says that
another legend is that one of these saints appears to have a special
commemoration, but under a female appelative in "Ffynon" and "Clochdy
Gwenno," the latter an isolated rock standing up in the midst of the
great gold excavations, and marking their depth in that particular
place. The well had, in good old times, a high reputation for healing
virtues, and that "on an unfortunate day, Gweno was induced to
explore the recesses of the cavern beyond a frowning rock, which had
always been the prescribed limit to the progress of the bathers. She
passed beneath it and was no more seen. She had been seized by some
superhuman power, as a warning to others not to invade those mysterious
'penetralia,' and still on stormy nights, when the moon is full, the
spirit of Gweno is seen to hover over the crag like a wreath of mist."
ST. GOVAN'S.
About seven miles from Pembroke, and a mile from Bosheston, there
is a small chapel of rude masonry half way down the cliff known
as St. Govan's Chapel. It is a seaside building, perched across a
fissure in the side of the cliff, and a long flight of steps leading
down to it from above. There is a popular belief that these steps
cannot be numbered by anyone correctly, or "counted by none both ways
alike." I visited the spot myself in October, 1909. In the east wall
of the Chapel a doorway admits into a cleft of the rock in which is a
marvellous cell or crevice, "that enables the largest person to turn
round therein, and at the same time quite filled by the smallest." This
cavity has been regarded by the superstitious as a miraculous cell,
and according to a legend Our Lord on one occasion, when pursued by
His enemies, the Jews, sought safety in this neighbourhood. "Passing
through a field where men were sowing bailey, He ordered them at
once to go for their reaping hooks, and, if any passed that way
and inquired after Him, to say that they had seen such an one, but
it was in sowing time. The men although they knew not who it was,
did as they were bid, fetched their hooks, and lo! on their return,
the field was waving with ripe corn. Whilst engaged in the reaping,
a band of men accosted them, as was expected, who, having received the
appointed answer, gave up the chase in despair. The Lord, meanwhile,
had been concealed in this crevice, which had opened to receive Him,
and still bears a faint impression of His person."
According to another tradition which is still extant in the
neighbourhood it was St. Govan (Sir Gawain), one of King Arthur's
knights, that took shelter in this cell when he was pursued by his
pagan persecutors. The cell has been used from time immemorial as a
"wishing place," and it is said that "all who turn round therein,
and steadfastly cling to the same wish during the operation will most
certainly obtain their wish before the expiration of the year." It
is still resorted to I believe by young people.
A few yards lower down in the ravine is a holy well, once much resorted
to for the cure of diseases. This well was frequently visited seventy
years ago, and, it is said that its water was so efficacious that
some who came there on crutches were able to walk away without them.
There are, or at least were, somewhere in this part, three upright
stones, about a mile distant from each other. The tradition is,
that on a certain day these stones meet to "dance the Hay," at a
place called Saxon's Ford, and when the dance is over, travel back
and resume their places.
The late Mr. Thomas, Greenpark, informed me that there was a moving
stone of this kind in the parish of Llandyssul, Cardiganshire.
TREGARON.
At a distance of about three miles from Tregaron there is a ridge
running east and west separating Upper and Lower Tregaron. It is called
"Cwys yr Ychain Bannog," the Furrow of the large-horned Oxen. Tradition
has it that the "Furrow" was made by two Bannog Oxen dragging along
the ground the carcass of a huge reptile which had been killed by the
people of the neighbourhood in ancient time. (For more about Tregaron
see Lakes.)
CRUG MAWR.
The Rev. Peter Roberts, in his "Cambrian Popular Antiquities," says
that Crug Mawr, or Pentychryd Mawr, is a lofty hill in Cardiganshire,
situated in the Vale of Aeron, mentioned in Giraldus, where he says,
"there is an open grave, which fits the length of any man lying in it,
short or long." Hence arose the ancient tradition, that a powerful
giant, kept his post on this hill, and was endowed with the genius of
the Aeron Vale. He had a lofty palace erected on the hill, and used
occasionally to invite the neighbouring giants to a trial of strength
on the top of it. At one of these meetings coits were proposed and
introduced, and, after great efforts, the inhabitant of the spot won
the day, by throwing his coit clear into the Irish shore, which ever
after gave him the superiority over all other giants in Ceredigion,
or the land of Ceredig.
Gwynionydd in the First Volume of the "Brython," 1859, mentions two
places known as "Crug Mawr," one near Cardigan, and the other in the
Vale of Aeron.
Near the road leading from Newcastle Emlyn to Lampeter, is "Crug
Balog," where a warrior or giant of the name of Balog was buried.
CANTREF Y GWAELOD; OR THE LOST LOWLAND.
"Ochenaid Gwyddno Garanhir,
Pan droes y don dros ei dir."
(The sigh of Gwyddno Garanhir,
When the waives swept over his land.)
There is a well-known tradition in Cardiganshire, and indeed all over
Wales, that what is known to-day as Cardigan Bay was once dry land. The
country was known as Cantref y Gwaelod, or The Lowland Hundred. It
had sixteen cities, and in the beginning of the sixth century the
district was governed by a king named Gwyddno Garanhir. As the land
was below sea-level, dykes had been built to check the encroachments
of the sea. One day, however, Saethennyn Feddw, that is, Saethennyn
the Drunkard, son of the King of South Wales, opened the sluices,
and the sea flowed in, but the people fled to the uplands.
One of the ancient Welsh Triads commemorates the inundation as
follows:--
"The three abandoned drunkards of the Isle of Britain were, first,
drunken Geraint, King of Siluria, who in the paroxysm of a fit of
intoxication set fire to the standing corn; the conflagration in
consequence of which rash act spread so violently, that all the corn
of the country, to an immense distance, was totally consumed, and a
destructive famine ensued."
"The second was Vortigern, surnamed the wry-mouthed, who when
intoxicated gave Horsa, the Saxon chief, the Isle of Thanet, for
permission to have an illicit connection with his daughter Rowena;
and further promised, that her son, the fruit of that amour, should
succeed to the Crown of England; which proved productive of treachery,
and a sanguinary massacre of a prodigious number of the chieftains
of the Cambrian race.
"The third was drunken Seithinyn, the son of Seithyn Saidi, King
of Dimetia; who when in a state of intoxication suffered the sea
to overflow Cantref y Gwaelod, where lands and habitations the most
beautiful in all Wales, excepting only Caerleon or Usk, to the number
of sixteen cities and towns, were in a short period inundated and
ruined. The lowland hundred was the property of Gwyddno, surnamed
longshanks, King of Ceredigion (Cardiganshire). This event happened
in the reign of Emrys Wledig. The inhabitants who escaped from that
inundation landed in Ardudwy, and ascended the mountains of Snowdon,
which had never been inhabited before that period."
There is a poem on this inundation in the ancient Welsh book "Llyvr
Du Caerfyrddin" (Black Book of Carmarthen).
Near Wallog, a few miles to the North of Aberystwyth, a causeway
called Sarn Cynfelyn, extends several miles into the sea. According
to local tradition this is supposed to have been a main road leading
into the submerged country, and it is said that there was a royal
palace in this part. Other places which traditions associate with the
Lowland Hundred are Sarn Cadwgan and Sarn Ddewi, further South, near
Aberayron, and Sarn Badrig, in North Wales. So much has been written
on this subject, both in prose and verse, that it it not necessary to
dwell further on it here. But it is of interest to add that there is a
tradition, which is still extant that between Borth, in Cardiganshire,
and Aberdovey, in Merionethshire, there once stood a town at a spot
which is now covered by water. There is also a well-known story of
the chimes of bells being heard at the bottom of the sea.
Dwellers near Ramsey Sound, in Pembrokeshire, also hear the chimes
of bells in the sea, and this reminds us of the Story of Grallon,
in Brittany, who reigns beneath the waves.
LLANFIHANGEL YSTRAD.
There is a tradition in the Vale of Aeron that some generations
ago, a man from the neighbourhood of Ystrad, was sentenced at the
Cardigan Assizes, to be hanged for sheep-stealing, or some other such
offence. The sentence, however, was not carried out, as the criminal
was a useful man, particularly so to the Squire who happened to be
the High Sheriff that year. But before the Squire's year of office
had elapsed, urgent inquiries came down from the Government as to the
execution, of which no report had ever reached them. The Squire was so
frightened at the Government's inquiries, that he had the unfortunate
man, who was out in the fields at the time, seized, bound and hanged
on a birch tree. One of the Squire's servants entered a small cottage
and begged an old woman for the loan of her apron, but concealing from
her what he was going to do with it. When the old woman discovered
that her apron was made use of to blindfold the poor man who was so
unceremoniously hanged, she pronounced a curse on the Squire and his
descendants. After this everything went wrong with that Squire.
A STRANGE CARMARTHENSHIRE TREE LEGEND.
There is a fine old mansion in Carmarthenshire, with a very strange
tradition in connection with it. I am not permitted to mention the
name of the place.
Once upon a time there was a certain tree, or rather a bush, in a
field, or in the Park, which bloomed with flowers every Christmas
morning. Christmas after Christmas, when putting forth its blossoms,
the bush made a strange noise, which attracted to the spot large
crowds of people from all parts of the country. At last the selfish
Squire cut down this sacred bush, in order to put a stop to the people
damaging his park; but by doing this rash act he brought upon himself
and his descendants a curse, and his offence has not been expiated
till this day.
MAESYFELIN.
The most popular tradition associated with Lampeter is that known
as the "Curse of Maesyfelin." Maesyfelin was a stately mansion
on the banks of the river Dulas, on the east side of the town of
Lampeter. It was once a place of consequence, and an ancient family
of Lloyds lived there. About the beginning of the 17th Century the
famous Vicar Pritchard of Llandovery, author of "Canwyll y Cymry"
had a son named Samuel. Tradition has it that this young Samuel
was an intimate friend of Sir Francis Lloyd, Knight of Maesyfelin,
who was a wicked man. At last, so the story goes, the two quarrelled
over some love affair, and young Samuel was stifled to death between
two feather beds. The body, tied in a sack and placed on horse-back,
was conveyed over the mountain in the depth of night and thrown into
the river Towy in Carmarthenshire. When the body of his lamented son
was discovered in the river, the broken-hearted father pronounced a
curse on Maesyfelin in the following words:--
"Melldith Duw ar Maesyfelin--
Ar bob carreg, ar bob gwreiddyn--
Am daflu blodau tref Llan'ddyfri
Ar ei ben i Dywi i foddi."
(The curse of God on Maesyfelin!
On every stone, and root therein,
For throwing the flower of Llandovery town
To Towy's water, there to drown.)
People believe to this day that the judgment of God fell on
the family and mansion of Maesyfelin. The palace delapsed and no
longer exists. Materials from its ruins were carried away to repair
Ffynonbedr, another mansion in the neighbourhood; but that place is
also in ruin now, so that it is believed that the curse of Maesyfelin
followed the material to Ffynonbedr.
TENBY (PEMBROKESHIRE).
In former times Tenby was so celebrated for its fishery and it was
known as Dinbych-y-Pysgod, that is Tenby-of-the-Fish. There is a
tradition in the neighbourhood of some extraordinary bank or rock,
at sea, called "Will's Mark," on which codfish in great abundance
were formerly taken. The spot is no longer to be found, and the loss
is said to have been occasioned as a curse which the inhabitants of
the town brought upon themselves by their barbarous usage of a deaf
and dumb man, who had come into the town begging.
CWM KERWYN (PEMBROKESHIRE).
In this locality is a huge stone or rock, which, according to
tradition, was thrown there by King Arthur of old; and somewhere in
the same neighbourhood is "Bedd Arthur," Arthur's Grave.
LLANSTEPHAN CASTLE (CARMARTHENSHIRE).
It is popularly supposed that there is an underground passage from
this old Castle to the mansion, known as Plas Llanstephan. Tradition
has it that many an attempt was made in former times to go through,
but always in vain, as a spirit extinguished the candles of all who
entered the passage after proceeding a certain distance.
CWMYREGLWYS (PEMBROKESHIRE).
According to Pentrevor, in "The Pembroke County Guardian," March,
1903, a "Fairies' Town" has been seen in the sea occasionally in
this neighbourhood. He also adds that there are on the extreme
point of Dinas Head, some steps in the rock called "The Devil's
Footprints." There are also "Devil's Footprints" in a rock, to be
seen in Cardiganshire, between Llanwenog and Llanarth.
MESUR Y DORTH (MEASURE OF THE LOAF).
Between St. David's and Fishguard is an object not unlike a milestone,
upon which is rudely traced a cross within a circle: the irregular
disc being about a foot in diameter. This is known as "Mesur y Dorth,"
(Measure of the Loaf); and the tradition is, that St. David caused
these figures to be made in order to regulate the size of the loaf
of bread in times of scarcity.
ABERGWILI.
Near the Bishop of St. David's Palace, Abergwili, is a pool in the
river Towy, called "Pwll y Coach" (the Coach's Pool). The tradition is
that in the old Coaching Days the "Great Coach" fell into this pool,
and was never seen again.
CAE POETH (HOT FIELD).
In the parish of Llanon, Carmarthenshire, is a field called "Cae
Poeth." Tradition says that images which were in the Church before
the Reformation were burnt at this spot.
CRAIG GWRTHEYRN (VORTIGERN'S ROCK).
Craig Gwrtheyrn is in the neighbourhood of Pencader, in
Carmarthenshire. According to an old legend, the disreputable old
British King Vortigern, built a castle here in the fifth century;
but he and his castle were destroyed by fire from heaven. There is
also a story that Owen Glyndwr sleeps in a cave here.
BRYNBERIAN (PEMBROKESHIRE).
Near Brynberian, in North Pembrokeshire, there is a grave known as
"Bedd yr Afanc," or the Avanc's Grave. According to an old tradition in
the neighbourhood, this Avanc was a most dangerous beast or monster,
which at last, after much trouble, was caught in a pool in the river,
and buried with pomp and religious rites on a spot which still bears
the name "Bedd yr Afanc."
LLANON (CARDIGANSHIRE).
Non was the mother of St. David. The Vicar, Mr. Lewis, informed me
that there is a tradition in the neighbourhood that the Patron Saint
was born here, and owned much land here, including all the flats
known as Morfa Esgob--The Bishop's March. It is said that St. David
divided the land into small portions which he gave to the fishermen
of the place. There was a stone on the exterior wall of the ruins
of St. Non's Chapel, on which was carved the face of a woman with a
child in her arms, traditionally reputed to be that of Non and her
child David. There is also a tradition that the Saint was educated
at Henfynyw. See more about this in Mr. Eyre Evans' interesting book
on the Antiquities of Cardiganshire.
Some three miles from Llanon, says Mr. Horsfall-Turner in his
"Wanderings in Cardiganshire," legends have been busy with a huge
stone pillar which marks, perhaps the grave of some long-forgotten
hero. "During the building of Devil's Bridge, we are told, his Satanic
majesty wished to employ this monolith and carried it away, his finger
marks may still be seen--leaving another impression. He sat so long
and thought so deeply, that at the crowing of the cock, he was startled
and vanished so rapidly that the stone was so completely forgotten."
TYNYCASTELL (DEVIL'S BRIDGE).
According to the Rev. John Griffith, Llangynwyd, there is a version
of the well-known legend of Arthur or Owen Lawgoch and the Sleeping
Warriors attached to this place; but as I have already given a version
of this story in connection with Owen Lawgoch's Cave, near Llandebie,
I shall not repeat it here. King Arthur figures rather prominently
in North Cardiganshire. Between Devil's Bridge and Llanafan is a farm
belonging to the Earl of Lisburne called "Maen Arthur"--Arthur's Stone;
and in the parish of Llanbadarn-fawr there is a "Llys Arthur"--Arthur's
Court, a legendary residence of the renowned King.
BEDD TALIESIN (TALIESIN'S GRAVE).
About eight miles north of Aberystwyth is an ancient grave known as
Bedd Taliesin. According to a local tradition, Taliesin, Chief Bard
of the Island of Britain was buried on this spot. The grave, which
is composed of stones, is in the centre of a large heap of earth or
mound surrounded by stone circles, and some generations ago bones,
and even a human skull, were found in it, which probably were the
remains of the great ancient poet. There is a superstition respecting
Bedd Taliesin that should anyone sleep in it for one night, he would
the next day become either a poet or an idiot. There is a similar
popular belief in connection with Cader Idris, in Merionethshire,
where an eminent bard once tried the experiment. Taliesin's Grave
is in the Parish of Llanfihangel genau'r Glyn, and in the adjoining
parish of Llancynfelin there is a village bearing the name of Taliesin;
and, according to the "Mabinogion," the great poet was born somewhere
between the Dyvi and Aberystwyth. The people of North Cardiganshire
believe to this day that Taliesin was both born and buried in their
district. The origin of his birth, which was supposed to be very
miraculous, and other legends which cling to the memory of this great
man are to be found in the Mabinogion.
CRUGIAU'R LADIS (CARMARTHENSHIRE).
On the mountain above the village of Caio, there are two peculiar
heaps of stone known as Crugiau'r Ladis, concerning which there is the
following curious tradition:--Two ladies from London were exiled from
their homes, and lived in this district. The change of town life to
country was so great, that they set to work and gathered heaps of
stone together to build a Babel heavenward, from the top of which
they could see London from the land of exile.
I heard a story when a boy that Derry Ormond tower, near Lampeter,
was also built in order to see London.
EURGLAWDD.
In a field called Llettyngharad on this farm, which is in the parish
of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glyn, there are two stones respecting which
an ancient prophecy says that when the third appears, the end of the
world will be at hand. At Llwynglas, in the same parish, there was once
preserved a long knife, which, according to tradition, was used by the
Saxons in the time of Vortigern, at the treachery of the long knives.
TRAETH SAITH (CARDIGANSHIRE).
Tradition says that Traeth Saith--the Seven's Shore--had its name from
the seven daughters of a king who were wrecked there, having been put
by order of their father into a vessel without sails or oars. A poem
commemorates this tradition.
Probably the place is named from a brook.
LLANILAR.
The present vicar, the Rev. J. F. Lloyd, remembers hearing from
an old lady, that when she was a little girl, it was customary for
the women of the parish to curtsy to an oil painting of the Blessed
Virgin Mary, on entering the church. It seems that there was a holy
well once known as Ffynnon Drindod not far from Llanilar.
LLANGADOCK.
An old man, named John Jones, informed me that Llangadock was a
large town in ancient times; but that a part of it sunk. According
to tradition, a church stood once where Pwll y Clychau--the Pool of
the Bells--is now, and the old man added that people still hear the
sound of the bells at the bottom of the pool. There is a stone in
the river Sawdde, known as Coitan Arthur, respecting which there is
a tradition that it was thrown down from the top of Pen Arthur--about
a mile distant--by Arthur the Giant.
ABERMARLAIS.
At the entrance gate of Abermarlais Park there is an interesting stone,
near which, according to a tradition related to me by Mrs. De Rutzen,
the Welsh Princes held a council of war. I was also informed by people
in the neighbourhood that the spot was once haunted by the ghost of
a lady in white.
OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE (GOWER).
It is said that in an underground dungeon of Oystermouth Castle is,
or there was, a large pillar known as "The Wishing Post," around which
young men and young women, when wishing for a lover or sweetheart,
were in the habit of walking nine times, and at the same time sticking
a pin in the pillar and looking on the wall, when they were supposed
to see "a lady in white."
OXWITCH (GOWER).
Near the Bone Caves is a cromlech known as Arthur's Stone. According
to tradition, St. David split it with a sword in proof that it was
not sacred.
CAE HALOG (NORTH CARDIGANSHIRE).
"Cae Halog," at Llanbadarn-fawr means "Desecrated Field." The tradition
in the neighbourhood is, that in former times people met together at
this spot to indulge in games and contests on Sundays, thus breaking
the Sabbath.
MOUNT AND VERWICK (CARDIGAN).
It was customary in former times for the people of this district to
meet together on the First Sunday after New Year's Day, called by them
"Sul Coch" (Red Sunday), when wrestling, football, etc., took place,
to commemorate a victory over the Flemings.
In the neighbouring parish of Llangoedmore, is St. Cynllo's Cave,
where, according to ancient tradition, the holy Saint prayed, and
where marks of his knees are to be seen in the rocks.
MAENCLOCHOG (PEMBROKESHIRE).
It is said that this parish received its name from a stone which
sounded like a bell. An old man named John Griffiths, informed me
that he remembered this stone, which was a very large one, and that
people broke it up in order to see what caused it to sound.
HIGHMEAD (CARDIGANSHIRE).
There are old traditions that an ancient Welsh King, named Pryderi
Ap Pwyll, had a palace here, somewhere on the river side, on a spot
known according to the Mabinogion, as "Rhuddlan Teivi." The present
mansion is the country residence of Colonel Davies-Evans, the worthy
Lord Lieutenant of Cardiganshire, who informed me that Sir John Rhys,
Oxford, has been trying to discover traces of Pryderi's palace.
I dealt with this subject in a paper which I read at Highmead, June,
1910, before the Cardiganshire Antiquarian Society, and which is to
be published in the Transactions of that Society. I may also add that
the Lord Lieutenant and Mrs. Davies-Evans are among my best friends
in South Wales, and I have made much use of their valuable library.
GOGERDDAN (NEAR ABERYSTWYTH).
The late John Jones, Bristol House, Talybont, informed me six years
ago, that there is a tradition in the neighbourhood that Henry
VII. called at Gogerddan when on his way through Cardiganshire to
Bosworth Field. Henry had been entertained at Wern Newydd and Llwyn
Dafydd in the south of the county. Gogerddan is the ancient residence
of the genial baronet, Sir Edward Webley-Parry-Pryse.
LLANGYNLLO (CARDIGANSHIRE).
There is a tradition in this parish, that in ancient times, the
Romans put to death a young woman in the neighbourhood of Gernos,
and that her spirit haunted the spot for generations. At first,
she appeared as a cat, and afterwards as a "White lady."
There is a tradition that a son of Howell Dda, King of Wales, lived
in the neighbouring district of Dyffryn Cerri.
LLANGWYRYFON (CHURCH OF THE VIRGINS).
Tradition says that this parish received is name from eleven thousand
Welsh virgins, who were massacred by barbarians on the coast of
Germany. The virgins were on their way to Brittany.
PENBRYN (CARDIGANSHIRE).
According to my friend, the Rev. Prys Williams (Brythonydd), there
is a farm in this parish called "Perth Geraint"; and it is probable
that Geraint, one of King Arthur's knights was buried somewhere in
this neighbourhood, as tradition locates in the parish of Penbryn,
the "Battle of Llongborth," at which Geraint was killed. This is
the Geraint who figures in the Mabinogion, and in Tennyson, as the
knight who married the young Lady Enid, who is described as "comely
and graceful."
There is a stone near Troed-y-Rhiw, which, according to tradition,
was an ejected pebble from the clog of a giant who lived in the
district in ancient times.
CILGERRAN (PEMBROKESHIRE).
It is said that the spot where the remains of the Castle now stand,
was known in ancient times as "Dyngeraint," so named from Geraint, one
of King Arthur's Knights. This is the Geraint I have just mentioned
above in connection with the traditions of Penbryn, Cardiganshire, a
parish which is only about seven miles distance from Cilgerran. Arthur
and his Knights figure prominently in the traditions of Pembrokeshire,
and there is a legend of a battle fought by Arthur's sons in the
neighbourhood of Precelly.
GORSYGEDOL (MERIONETHSHIRE).
Lady Enid Vaughan, daughter of Countess Lisburne, and sister of the
young Earl of Lisburne, informed me that there is a tradition in
the neighbourhood of Harlech that Charles I. during the Civil War,
was at one time hiding at Gorsygedol, and that the bedstead in which
he slept is still to be seen there. Near the same old mansion is a
large stone known as "Coeten Arthur"--Arthur's coit.
NICK-NAMES, OLD AND POPULAR SAYINGS.
"There is one-half of him in Penboyr."
"Angylion Ceinewydd, Gwartheg Llanarth, Hwrddod Cilcennin." (New
Quay's angels, Llanarth's cows, Cilcennin's rams.)
"Gwyr Llanddeusant, capan crwyn,
Lladron defaid, mamau'r wyn."
(Llanddeusant men, skin caps,
Sheep stealers, lambs's mothers.)
"Moch Sir Benfro."
(Pembrokeshire pigs.)
It is probable that Pembrokeshire was the particular part of Britain
into which pigs were first introduced. In the Mabinogion, Gwydion tells
Math, son of Mathonwy, Lord of North Wales, that Pryderi, Lord of the
South, had some beasts called pigs. Pryderi, though he had a palace
at Rhuddlan Teivi, in Cardiganshire, was a Pembrokeshire Prince, and
it would seem that his chief palace was still at Narberth, and that
he introduced some of his pigs from Pembrokeshire into Cardiganshire.
"Esmwyth yw Cwsg cawl Erfin."
(Easily sleeps turnip broth.)
In the "Cambrian Notes and Queries," reprinted from the "Weekly mail,"
March, 1902, I.H.A. says: "There were two families living in two small
cottages somewhere in a secluded spot on one of the slopes of the Black
Mountain, Carmarthenshire, both in very straitened circumstances. The
paterfamilias' names were John and David. John found a way out of
the difficulty of rearing a family upon the salary earned by farm
labourers in those days by stealing a sheep now and then from the
mountain flocks. His family very often had mutton broth and plenty of
meat for supper while David's family had to sup upon a piece of coarse
bread and turnip broth. Upon a certain night David had enjoyed his
usual repast and gone to bed. Mrs. David had gone to the "next door" to
view the feast, when suddenly two constables of the old fashion, made
their appearance to demand the body of friend John, his depredations
having been found out. Mrs. David was frightened and ran into her
own house. She then called her husband. 'David! David! Come down at
once; they are going to take John of the next door to prison.' 'No,'
says David, 'I will sleep on'--
"Esmwyth y Cwsg cawl erfin."
(Easily sleeps turnip broth.)
The above saying is well-known all over Wales, but in the northern
part of the Principality people say, "Esmwyth y cwsg potes faip." What
is known as "Cawl erfin" in South Wales, is known in North Wales as
"potes faip."
Another similar saying which I have heard many a time is "Esmwyth
cwsg cawl dwr"--easily sleeps water broth.
Mr. John Davies, of the National Library of Wales, Aberystwyth, in the
"Cambrian Notes and Queries," says: "'Esmwyth cwsg cawl dwr' is an old
saying in Cardiganshire, especially in the parish of Llandyssul. About
the year 1830 my grandfather was constable of the parish, 'Lladron
Defaid' (sheep stealers) were very popular at that time; so old Siams
Isaac, of Pantrhedynen, was called from his bed one winter night to
take a prisoner to Cardigan Gaol, who was caught red-handed in the
act of killing the sheep in his house. On the road going from Horeb
to Newcastle Emlyn the constable and prisoner went into a public
house and called for a pint of beer and bread and cheese each. After
resuming their journey for about a hundred yards, the landlady of the
public house called after them that the man had stolen a knife from
the house. A search was made, and the knife was found in the pocket
of the 'Lleidr Defaid.' After the usual compliment of a few rounds of
old-fashioned boxing, he was taken safely to a place of correction,
and never returned to Tregroes. So the old woman who happened to live
next door always said to John, her husband, 'Esmwyth cwsg cawl dwr
John bach,' (water broth, easy sleep, John dear).
"CYNGHOR GWRAIG HEB EI OFYN."
(A Woman's advice without asking for it).
When King Henry VII. (then Earl of Richmond) was on his way through
Wales to Bosworth Field, he consulted Dafydd Llwyd of Mathavarn, as
to the final issue of the coming struggle with Richard III. Dafydd
was a country gentleman, a bard, a wizard, and a prophet. On this
occasion, however, he did not know how to prophecy, and was greatly
perplexed. Fortunately, his wife was a very shrewd woman, who, having
discovered her husband's embarrassment or trouble of mind, secretly
advised him to tell Henry that he would be successful in dethroning
Richard III. and in making himself King. She assured her husband that
if the prediction failed of its fulfilment, he would hear no more on
the subject, but that it would make his fortune if confirmed by the
event. Henry went on his way to Bosworth, rejoicing, and we know that
the prophecy became true. Hence originated the proverb, "Cynghor gwraig
heb ei ofyn," which implies that it is always a good thing to follow
a woman's advice, when she gives you an advice without asking for it.
In an old book entitled "The History of the Principality of Wales,
etc.," by Robert Burton, published as early as the year 1695, the
writer when speaking of Cardiganshire says:--"They have a proverb
'Bu Arthur ond tra fu'; that is, 'Arthur was only whilst he was.' It
is honourable for old men if they can say, 'We have been brave
fellows.' They have another proverb, 'Ni thorres Arthur nawdd gwraig,'
that is, 'King Arthur never violated the refuge of a woman.' For
the King was the mirror of knighthood. By the woman's refuge we may
understand her tongue, (and no valiant man will revenge her words
with his blows)."
The above sayings mentioned by Robert Burton 200 years ago have fallen
into disuse now, but I have occasionally heard, "Ni thorres Arthur
nawdd gwraig."
CHALKING THE DOOR-STEP.
The following appeared in the "Western Mail," December 3rd, 1910:--
According to a work just published on South Pembrokeshire, the custom
prevailing in that part of the country of chalking the door-step dates
back to Druidical times. The object of this chalking was to keep evil
spirits out of the house. The patterns run round the slated steps,
and, elaborate as they often are, the essential thing is that there
should be no gap in them, because the evil spirits could enter into
the house through the gaps. Does this custom prevail in all parts
of Wales? It undoubtedly does in Carmarthenshire, Cardiganshire,
Glamorgan, and Pembrokeshire.
WAKES IN RADNORSHIRE.
The following account by an eye-witness of a Wake at Disserth, on
July 9th, 1744, will prove of interest:--
"At the end of a mead, by this river side (the R. Ieithon),
were a company dancing in a barn. They were about nine couple,
genteely dressed, and all people of fortune and fashion, and I may
with security say, the best and most active country dancers I ever
saw. We observed that the men were gay and genteel, handsome, and
well shaped; the women were genteel without pride, modest without
affectation, beautiful without art, and free without fondness. The
generous hand of nature appeared in every face, unspotted with the
artful follies of this degenerate age. It gave me a strong idea
of the happiness and simplicity of the ancient Britons before the
Roman and other corruptions overwhelmed the now refined part of the
island (as we are pleased to term it). But these zealots for liberty
maintained their independency long, and under this happy government
they continue (and they never end) their innocent customs, manners
and recreations. A favourite dance (Bumpers Squire Jones) I saw
them perform with the greatest spirits, order and exactness ... the
churchyard, which, though large, was filled with people of almost all
ages and qualities. Near this, was a little house, where we put off our
riding coats, etc. The church is a strong building, and pretty large,
against the tiles of which were a dozen lusty young fellows playing
at tennis, and as many against the steeple at fives. They played very
well, but spoke (as almost every one else did) in the Welsh tongue. On
one side of the church were about six couples dancing to one violin,
and just below three or four couples to three violins, whose seat was a
tombstone. We saw common games of ball played against the sacred pile,
and there also music playing over the bones of the deceased. We were in
the middle of a merry, noisy throng, without knowing their language,
or indeed almost anything they said."--Church Plate of Radnorshire,
by J. T. Evans, quoted from "Pryse's Handbook."
NOTES
[1] King George and Caroline.
[2] A pot for cooking.
[3] "British Goblins," page 67.