THE INLAND SEA.
_Dipped in the lines of sunset, wreathed in zones,_
_The clouds are resting on their mountain thrones;_
_One peak alone exalts its glacier crest,_
_A golden paradise above the rest._
_Thither the day with lingering steps retires,_
_And in its own blue element expires._
_Monday, February 12th_.--Fires were lighted at 4 a.m., and by six we
were steaming slowly out of the beautiful bay of Kobe. It was a cold
bright morning, with a strong head wind, increasing every moment as we
proceeded, until, in the straits of Akashi, it became almost
impossible to make any way against it. There was not much sea, but the
wind impeded our progress so much, that it was at last reduced to one
mile instead of nine an hour. The straits are very fine, and the old
castle presents an admirable specimen of the architecture of a
Daimio's residence.
We proceeded across the Harima Nada, where we were more or less
exposed to the open sea, and where we took more water on board than we
had done in the gale before arriving at Yokohama. There were no big
waves, but we rolled tremendously, and the spray came over us, though
the mere force of the wind seemed to keep the sea down.
After struggling until twelve o'clock, and having done but little good
for the last three hours, Tom determined to run back, and in a short
time we found ourselves once more at anchor in the harbour of Kobe. It
was a work of considerable difficulty, owing to the strong wind and
tide, to steer safely among the numerous vessels, and for a few
minutes we thought we were aground, as we did not make the slightest
progress, though the engines were working ahead full speed. The
proveedor's boat came out to us as soon as we were perceived, and we
landed in her; but it was as much as the six stout oarsmen could do to
make way against the wind.
We went for a walk, or rather a scramble, to the waterfall, half-way
up to the Temple of the Moon. Much of the ground was covered with
snow, the streams were frozen at the sides, and there were hanging
icicles to be seen, six feet in length; and yet on either side were
camellias and tea-trees covered with red and white blossoms,
orange-trees, laden with fruit; gold-fish swimming about in ponds,
overhung with maidenhair fern, besides pteris and hothouse ferns,
shaded by bamboos, palms, and castor-oil plants. The order of
vegetation seems to be as much reversed as everything else in this
strange country. In England all those plants would require
conservatories, or at least sheltered spots, and the greatest care,
instead of being exposed to frost and snow.
Getting on board again was even a more difficult business than landing
had been; but we arrived at last without mishap.
_Tuesday, February 13th_.--The wind dropped at sunset, and as it
continued calm all night, Tom ordered fires to be lighted at 4 a.m. By
six o'clock, however, it was blowing harder than ever, and we
therefore decided to make an excursion to Arrima instead of attempting
another start.
We went ashore to make the necessary arrangements, and it was settled
that we should start at ten o'clock, which we did, with the Consulate
constable as our guide.
We had three men to each _jinrikisha_, and went along at a merry pace
through the long straggling towns of Kobe and Hiogo. The cold was
intense, and before we started our poor _jinrikisha_ men were
shivering until they nearly shook us out of the vehicles. Soon they
were streaming with perspiration, and at our first halting-place they
took off almost all their garments, though it was as much as we could
do to keep warm in our furs and wraps. We waited while they partook
copiously of hot tea and bowls of rice, and bought new straw shoes, or
rather sandals, for less than a farthing a pair.
To-day being the Japanese New Year's Day, all the little shrines in
the houses and along the road were prettily decorated, and had
offerings of rice, _saki_, and fruit deposited upon them. The spirits
of the departed are supposed to come down and partake, not of the
things themselves, but of the subtle invisible essence that rises from
them. The road now became very pretty, winding through the valleys,
climbing up and dipping down the various hills, and passing through
picturesque villages, where all the people, leaving their meals or
their games, came out to look at us, while some of the children
scampered on to secure a good view of the foreigners, and others ran
away frightened and screaming. They were all dressed in dark blue
clothes, turned up with red, with bright embroidered _obis_ and
flowers in their elaborately dressed hair. I have managed to get some
dolls' wigs, which give a good idea of the various styles of
hair-dressing.
In rather more than three hours we reached Arrima, a village far more
beautifully situated than any we had seen, in the very centre of the
mountains, where a dozen valleys converge into one centre. On one side
are mineral springs, on the other a river. Bamboos grow luxuriantly on
all sides, and the inhabitants of the various valleys obtain their
livelihood by manufacturing from them all sorts of articles: boxes for
every conceivable purpose; baskets, fine and coarse, large and small,
useful and ornamental, coloured and plain; brushes, pipes, battledores
and shuttlecocks, sticks, spoons, knives and forks, sauce ladles,
boats, lamps, cradles, &c.
The first glimpse of the village is lovely; that from the bridge that
crosses the river is still more so. We clambered up narrow streets,
with quaint carved houses and overhanging balconies, till we reached a
tea-house, kept by a closely shaven bonze, or priest. He seemed very
pleased to see us, and bowed and shook hands over and over again. He
placed his whole house at our disposal, and a very clean, pretty, and
well-arranged house it was, with a lovely little formal garden,
ornamented with mimic temples and bridges of ice, fashioned by the
hard frost, with but little assistance from the hand of man. Bits of
wood and stone, a few graceful fern-leaves and sprays of bamboo, and a
trickling stream of water produced the most fairy-like crystalline
effects imaginable. If only some good fairy could, with a touch of her
wand, preserve it all intact until a few months hence, what a delight
it would be in the hot summer weather!
To-day the paper house was indeed cold; but even so slight a shelter
from the bitter wind was acceptable, though we regretted the screens
could not be opened to enable us to admire the prospect on all sides.
The luncheon basket being quickly unpacked, the good priest warmed our
food and produced a bottle of port wine, which he mulled for our
benefit. Cheered and refreshed we proceeded on our way, leaving him
much delighted with what seemed to us but a small recompense for his
courtesy.
Every house and shop in those narrow picturesque streets was a study
in itself, and so were the quaint groups of people we met, and who
gazed eagerly at us. We looked into the public baths, two oblong
tanks, into which the mineral springs came bubbling up, thick and
yellow, and strongly impregnated with iron, at a temperature of 112°.
They are covered in, and there is a rough passage round them. Here, in
the bathing season, people of both sexes stand in rows, packed as
tight as herrings in a barrel, and there are just as many outside
waiting their turn to enter. To-day there were only two bathers,
immersed up to their chins in the steaming water. They had left all
their clothes at home, and would shortly have to pass through the
streets without any covering, notwithstanding the cold.
[Illustration: Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work]
From the baths we went to some of the best basket shops, where the
beauty and cheapness of the articles exposed for sale offered great
temptations. We had to disturb our _jinrikiska_ men, who were enjoying
their frugal meal at a separate tea-house. It was beautifully served,
and as clean and nicely cooked as possible, though consisting of
viands which we might not have fancied, such as various kinds of fish,
seaweed, sea-snails (_bêche de mer_), and rice. Each man had his own
little table and eight or ten separate dishes, a bottle of _saki_,
tea-pipe, and _hibatchi_, arranged exactly as ours had been at the
tea-house at Yokohama. How well they managed their chop-sticks, how
quickly they shovelled the food down, and how clean they left each
dish! Habit is everything.
We were anxious to make the best of our way home, and starting at
four, with but a short stop at the halfway tea-house, we reached the
hotel soon after seven, having taken less than an hour to come five
miles over a very bad road, an inch deep in mud. So much for a
'man-power carriage,' the literal translation of the word
_jinrikisha_.[18] Soon after an excellent dinner we returned on board,
so as to be ready for an early start to-morrow morning.
[Footnote 18: Or 'pull-man-car,' as it is sometimes called.]
_Wednesday, February 14th_.--We were called at 4 a.m. Fires were
lighted, but before steam was up the wind had risen; so our start was
once more postponed to the afternoon. We steamed out to the buoy, from
among the shipping, in order to be able to get away more easily at
night. The wind generally goes down at sunset, and Tom hoped that, by
taking our departure then, we should get through the worst part of the
Inland Sea before the wind again rose with the sun.
After breakfast we went ashore, and dispersed in different directions,
to meet again at the hotel for luncheon. Then we all again separated,
the children going to the circus, whilst I took a drive, with a pair
of black and white Hakodadi ponies, to the foot of the hills behind
the town.
It was a pleasant circuit by pretty valleys, and brought us back to
the town by a different road. I went to pick up the children at the
circus, and found them just coming out, with delighted faces, having
most thoroughly enjoyed themselves. They went on board to tea, but
Mabelle and I went with the Consul in _jinrikishas_ to a Japanese
theatre at Hiogo. The streets were crowded with holiday-makers; for
to-day is the first of the Chinese new year, as yesterday was the
first of the Japanese new year. The floor of the theatre was crowded
with people, all squatting on their heels, each with his or her
chow-chow box and _hibatchi_ or brazier of burning charcoal to keep
themselves warm. The performance frequently goes on for ten or twelve
hours, with short intervals and whole families come and take up their
abode at the theatre for twelve hours at a time. The acting was not
at all bad, and the performers were beautifully dressed.
We did not stay very long at the theatre, but were soon tearing back
again through the streets to the Consulate. These quick rides in a
_jinrikisha_, especially at night, are very amusing. You have the
pleasure of going at a high speed, and yet, being on a level with the
people, you can see much more of them and of their manners than would
be possible in a carriage.
When we reached the Consulate we found the chief of the police of the
foreign settlement waiting for the Consul, to inform him that Japanese
soldiers were patrolling the town with fixed bayonets, alleging that
information had been sent to the Governor that some of the rebels were
in the hills at the back of the town, and might appear at any moment.
The ships-of-war were to be communicated with at once for the
protection of the inhabitants. They do not expect a general attack
here, but seem to think the rebels' plan is to creep up by degrees to
Osaka, where the Mikado is shortly expected to stay, and take
possession of his person and the imperial treasure at one blow.
When I got on board the 'Sunbeam' again, I found that steam was up and
all was ready for starting; but the wind was still strong against us,
and it was evidently necessary again to wait until four o'clock
to-morrow morning.
We were rolling a good deal, and, coming along the engine-room
passage, my foot slipped, a door banged to, and my thumb was caught in
the hinge and terribly crushed. Dressing it was a very painful affair,
as the doctor had to ascertain whether the bone was broken, and I
fainted during the operation. At last I was carried to my cabin and
put to bed, after taking a strong dose of chloral to soothe the
agonising pain.
_Thursday, February 15th_.--I wonder if anybody who has not
experienced it can realise the stupefying, helpless sensation of being
roused up from a sound sleep, in the middle of the night, on board
ship, by the cry of 'Fire!' and finding oneself enveloped in a smoke
so dense as to render everything invisible.
[Illustration: The Yacht on Fire.]
At 2.30 a.m. I was awakened by a great noise and a loud cry of 'The
ship is on fire!' followed by Mr. Bingham rushing into our cabin to
arouse us. At first I could hardly realise where we were, or what was
happening, as I was half stupid with chloral, pain, and smoke, which
was issuing from each side of the staircase in dense volumes. My first
thought was for the children, but I found they had not been forgotten.
Rolled up in blankets, they were already in transit to the deck-house.
In the meantime Mr. Bingham had drenched the flames with every
available jug of water, and Tom had roused the crew, and made them
screw the hose on to the pump. They were afraid to open the hatches,
to discover where the fire was, until the hose and _extincteurs_ were
ready to work, as they did not know whether or not the hold was on
fire, and the whole ship might burst into a blaze the moment the air
was admitted. Allen soon appeared with an _extincteur_ on his back,
and the mate with the hose. Then the cupboard in Mr. Bingham's room
was opened, and burning cloaks, dresses, boxes of curios,
portmanteaus, &c., were hauled out, and, by a chain of men, sent on
deck, where they were drenched with sea-water or thrown overboard.
Moving these things caused the flames to increase in vigour, and the
_extincteur_ was used freely, and with the greatest success. It is an
invaluable invention, especially for a yacht, where there are so many
holes and corners which it would be impossible to reach by ordinary
means. All this time the smoke was pouring in volumes from the
cupboard on the other side, and from under the nursery fireplace. The
floors were pulled up, and the partitions were pulled down, until at
last the flames were got under. The holds were next examined. No
damage had been done there; but the cabin floor was completely burnt
through, and the lead from the nursery fireplace was running about,
melted by the heat.
The explanation of the cause of the fire is very simple. Being a
bitterly cold night, a roaring fire had been made up in the nursery,
but about half-past ten the servants thought it looked rather
dangerous and raked it out. The ashpan was not large enough, however,
to hold the hot embers, which soon made the tiles red-hot. The
woodwork caught fire, and had been smouldering for hours, when the
nurse fortunately woke and discovered the state of affairs. She tried
to rouse the other maids, but they were stupefied with the smoke, and
so she rushed off at once to the doctor and Mr. Bingham. The former
seized a child under each arm, wrapped them in blankets, and carried
them off to the deck-house, Mabelle and the maids following, with more
blankets and rugs, hastily snatched up. The children were as good as
possible. They never cried nor made the least fuss, but composed
themselves in the deck-house to sleep for the remainder of the night,
as if it were all a matter of course. When I went to see them, little
Muriel remarked: 'If the yacht is on fire, mamma, had not baby and I
better get our ulsters, and go with Emma in the boat to the hotel, to
be out of the way?' It is the third time in their short lives that
they have been picked out of bed in the middle of the night and
carried off in blankets away from a fire, so I suppose they are
getting quite used to it.
There can be no doubt that the preservation of the yacht from very
serious damage, if not from complete destruction, was due to the
prompt and efficient manner in which the _extincteurs_ were used. It
was not our first experience of the value of this invention; for, not
very long before we undertook our present expedition, a fire broke out
in our house in London, on which occasion the _extincteurs_ we
fortunately had at hand rendered most excellent service in subduing
the flames.
By half-past three all danger was past, and we began to settle down
again, though it took a long time to get rid of the smoke.
At four o'clock we weighed anchor, and once more made a start from
Kobe, and passed through the Straits of Akashi. The wind was dead
ahead, but not so strong as when we made our previous attempts. It was
bitterly cold, the thermometer, in a sheltered place, being only one
degree above freezing, and the breeze from the snowy mountains cutting
like a knife.
We were all disappointed with our sail to-day; perhaps because we had
heard so much of the extreme beauty of the scenery, and this is not
the best time of year for seeing it. The hills are all brown, instead
of being covered with luxuriant vegetation, and all looked bleak and
barren, though the outlines of the mountain ranges were very fine. We
were reminded of the west coast of Scotland, the Lofoden Islands in
the Arctic Circle, and the tamer portions of the scenery of the
Straits of Magellan.
After passing through the Straits, we crossed the Harima Nada--rather
a wider portion of the sea--and then entered the intricate channels
among the islands once more. There are three thousand of them
altogether, so one may take it for granted that the navigation is by
no means easy. The currents and tides are strong, sunken rocks are
frequent, and the greatest care is requisite. Indeed, many people at
Yokohama urged Tom to take a pilot.
[Illustration: Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea]
We had one lovely view in the afternoon of the island of Yoken San,
with its snowy mountain at the back, and a pretty little village, with
a few picturesque junks in the foreground. The yacht passed between
Oki Sama and Le Sama, steering straight for the cone-shaped little
island of Odutsi. Towards dusk we made the light of Nabae Sinaon Yo
Sina, and, steering past it, had to take several sharp and awkward
turns, to avoid two reefs off Siyako and Usi Suria. Thus we threaded
the St. Vincent's Channel, and, avoiding the Conqueror bank by another
sharp turn, dropped anchor at Imo Ura, in Hurusima, precisely at 8.30
p.m. Tom had been on the look-out since 5 a.m., and we were all more
or less worn out with the fatigue and excitement of last night.
_Friday, February 16th_.--Off again at 4 a.m. The scenery was much
finer than yesterday, and the wind not quite so bitterly cold.
About 11 a.m. I heard a hurrying to and fro, and once more the cry of
'Fire!' This time it was in the store-room that it broke out. The iron
plates on which the saloon and galley grates are fixed had become
red-hot, and the wooden deck below had consequently caught fire. The
boxes on both sides, containing the stores, were in flames; but they
were quickly removed, water was poured down, and the second and third
fires were thus soon extinguished.
[Illustration: Hurusima, Inland Sea.]
_Saturday, February 17th_.--At 3.15 a.m. we began to slow; at 3.45 the
anchor was dropped near the lighthouse of Isaki, and we waited until
daylight before proceeding through the Straits of Simono-seki. About
nine o'clock a fresh start was made, under steam, but before long the
wind freshened, and as soon as the anchorage near the town was reached
we let go once more, near two men-of-war, who had preceded us from
Kobe, but who were now wind-bound, like ourselves.
To our astonishment, we also saw a large ship from Nova Scotia at
anchor, the 'Mary Fraser,' although this is not a free port, nor
within treaty limits. The gig was lowered at once, and we rowed
alongside to gain what intelligence could be learned, as well as to
ascertain what likelihood there might be of our obtaining fresh
supplies here. The captain was very civil and kind, and volunteered to
go on shore with us and act as our interpreter. We landed opposite a
large teahouse, where we were immediately surrounded by a crowd of
Japanese, who stared at us eagerly and even touched us, only through
curiosity. They pursued us wherever we went, and when we entered a
tea-house or shop the whole crowd immediately stopped, and if we
retired to the back they surged all over the front premises, and
penetrated into the interior as far as they could. A most amusing
scene took place at one of the tea-houses, where we went to order some
provisions for the yacht. It was rather a tedious process, and when we
came out of the back room we found the whole of the front of the place
filled by a gaping, curious crowd. The proprietor suggested that they
should retire at once, and an abrupt retreat immediately took place,
the difficulties of which were greatly augmented by the fact that
every one had left his high wooden shoes outside, along the front of
the house. The street was ankle deep in mud and half-melted snow, into
which they did not like to venture in their stockings; but how the
owners of two or three hundred pairs of clogs, almost exactly alike,
ever found their own property again I do not understand, though they
managed to clear out very quickly. I believe Muriel and I were the
chief objects of attraction. They told us that no European lady or
child had ever been at Simono-seki before. It is not a treaty port, so
no one is allowed to land, except from a man-of-war, without special
permission, which is not often given; it is, besides, the key to the
Inland Sea, and the authorities are very jealous about any one seeing
the forts. There is only one European resident here, connected with
the telegraph; and a dull time he must have of it. The wire crosses
the Straits a few miles higher up.
The streets appeared to be full of soldiers, patrolling singly and in
pairs, with fixed bayonets. The temples were being used as barracks,
and the principal buildings seemed to be strongly guarded; but
otherwise everything appeared to go on as usual.
We waded through the mud and snow to the proverbial end of all things,
always followed by the same crowd, and stared at by all the
inhabitants of the houses we passed. They seemed very timid, and
inclined to run away directly we turned round. Still, their curiosity,
especially respecting my sealskin jacket and serge dress, was
insatiable, and I constantly felt myself being gently stroked and
touched.
We returned to the yacht, and whilst we were at lunch some officers
came on board to say that, this not being a treaty port, we could not
purchase any provisions, except through them, and with special
permission. This was soon arranged, and our visitors were rewarded for
their trouble by being shown over the yacht.
_Sunday, February 18th_.--We were awakened in the night by a heavy
gale, with snow and sleet beating furiously on the deck. In the
morning the land was covered with snow, the water froze as it was
pumped on deck, and the bitter wind howled and whistled through the
rigging. In the afternoon the wind even increased in violence, the
snowstorms became more frequent, and the sky was dark and overcast.
We had service at eleven and again at four. The sun set cold and
stormy, promising a wild night. At times the shore was quite hidden by
the snowstorms, though only a few cables' lengths off.
_Monday, February 19th_.--The wind and weather became worse than ever,
and, as time was precious, Tom decided to retrace our steps for a
short distance and go through the Bungo Channel, between the islands
of Sikok and Kiusiu, instead of going out to sea through the
Simono-seki Straits, as, in the latter case, the gale would be right
in our teeth, and we should make but little progress. Now we shall be
under the shelter of Kiusiu and the Linschoten and Luchu islands for
at least two days, and so make a fair wind of it. Steering due south,
too, we may hope to be soon out of this horrid weather. The only
drawback to this plan is that we shall miss seeing Nagasaki, which I
much regret. There are no great sights there, but the scenery is
pretty, and the place is interesting owing to the fact that it was the
first and for many years the only, port open to foreigners, and also
the scene of the cruel murders of Christians and the site of the
beautiful island of Pappenberg. Shanghai I do not think I regret so
much, though Tom would have been interested to talk with the merchants
about their commerce, and to see their houses, many of which are, I am
told, perfect palaces. It would be very cold there, too, at this time
of year; and I do so long to lose my cough and feel warm once more.
At 8.30 p.m. we weighed and proceeded under steam. The views of the
mountains, between the snowstorms, were lovely, with the fresh-fallen
snow shining in an occasional gleam of sunshine. We soon passed the
Isaki light, with wind and tide in our favour, and at sunset found
ourselves in the open waters of the North Pacific.
_Tuesday, February 20th_.--A lovely day; the thermometer already
twenty degrees higher than it was yesterday. The wind had dropped, and
at 10 a.m. it had become so calm that fires were lighted.
It was delightful to see everybody and everything on board--people,
children, animals, and birds, all and each sunning themselves, and
trying to get thawed after the freezing they have had. We have
unfortunately lost one of the Hawaiian geese, which I much regret, as
it is irreplaceable. None have, I believe, ever been exported before.
The pig from Harpe Island is very well. We have not seen him all the
cold weather, as he has been buried in straw in a box, but they say
that the cold has stopped his growth.
We were continually passing islands throughout the day, sometimes six
or seven being in sight at one time, some with active and more with
extinct volcanoes. We saw smoke issuing from three of the cones, but
by night we were too far off to notice the flames.
_Wednesday, February 21st_.--The calm still continues. The sun is
bright, the sky blue, and the atmosphere warm. During the night we
passed Suwa Sima, Akuisi Sima, and Yoko Sima.
In the afternoon a light breeze sprang up; we stopped steaming, and
before nightfall were bowling along smoothly at the rate of ten knots.
_Thursday, February 22nd_.--The same delightful breeze continued
throughout the night and most of the day. By noon we had done 220
miles. Everybody had on summer clothes, and we all felt ourselves
gradually expanding after being shrivelled up by the cold of the last
month.
I should never recommend anybody to come to Japan in the winter. You
do not see it at its best, I am sure, and the scanty protection
afforded by houses and carriages makes travelling a penance rather
than a pleasure. Travellers, however, who wish to see Japan should do
so at once; for the country is changing every day, and in three years
more will be so Europeanised that little will be left worth seeing; or
a violent anti-foreign revulsion of feeling may have taken place, and
then the ports will be closed more strictly than they were even before
the execution of the first treaty. Nothing that we can give them do
they really want; their exports are not large; and they have learned
nearly all they care to know from the foreigner. We have seen many of
the European engineers of Japanese vessels, and they all agree in
declaring that the natives learn to imitate anything they see done
with wonderful quickness. These men also averred that in a few years
there will not be a single foreigner employed in Japan, as the
Japanese will be quite in a position to dispense with such aid; and
although the Government pay foreigners in a high position exceedingly
well, their service offers no career to a young man. His engagement is
for so many years, and when his subordinates have learned to do the
work he may go where he likes. I am bound to add that I have heard the
contrary opinion equally strongly expressed; but the facts I have
mentioned make me lean rather to the former than to the latter side of
the story.
_Friday, February 23rd_.--Another pleasant day. The wind dropped,
fires were lighted, and at 4.30 p.m. we proceeded under steam. Soon
after seven, whilst we were at dinner, the table gave a sudden lurch,
which was followed by the sound of rain on the deck above. We found
that a breeze had sprung up all at once, and had carried away some of
our head-sails before they could possibly be taken in. Even under
close-reefed canvas we had a most uneasy night, racing along at from
ten to twelve knots an hour.
_Saturday, February 24th_.--We were rushing along, literally _through_
the water all day, for there was plenty of it on deck--not really any
great quantity, but sufficient to make everything wet and
uncomfortable.
At 1.35 we made the island of Ockseu, a capital land-fall, and very
satisfactory in every way; for the sky was too much overcast to get an
observation, and the currents hereabouts are strong and variable.
During the night the wind fell light, but we maintained a speed of
from nine to ten knots.
_Sunday, February 25th_.--A much finer day. At 8 a.m. we had run 299
knots since the same time yesterday. We met a large steamer and passed
a brigantine; also several Chinese junks. About twelve o'clock we saw
a flag being waved frantically from a junk not far from us. At first
we thought something was wrong with them; but soon a small boat put
off with three men, and we found, on its arrival alongside, that it
contained a pilot anxious for a job. He was very disappointed that we
would not let him come on board; but Tom always likes doing the
pilotage himself. The boat was a rough wash-tub kind of affair, not
much better than those used by the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego and
Patagonia.
About two o'clock we entered the tropics; but the weather is now
colder again, and not nearly so pleasant as it was two days ago. I
suppose it is owing to the north-east monsoon.
In the course of the afternoon we received several more offers of
pilotage, all of which were declined; and at 7.45 we got up steam and
lay to all night, ready to go into Hongkong harbour at daylight.
_Monday, February 26th_.--At 4 a.m. we found ourselves close under the
light on the eastern end of the island of Hongkong. We were surrounded
by islands, and the morning was dark and thick; so we waited till
5.30, and then steamed on through the Kowloon passage up to the city
of Victoria, as it is really named, though it is generally called
Hongkong. The channel is long, and in some places so narrow that it is
like going through a mountain pass, with barren hills and rocks on
either hand; but the combined effect of the blue waters, and red,
brown, and yellow hills, is very fine.
Off the town of Victoria the crowd of shipping is immense, and it
became a difficult task to thread our way between the fleets of
sampans and junks. The latter are the most extraordinary-looking craft
I ever saw, with high, overhanging sterns and roll, or rather draw, up
sails, sometimes actually made of silk, and puffed like a lady's net
ball-dress. Then their decks are so crowded with lumber, live and
dead, that you wonder how the boats can be navigated at all. But still
they are much more picturesque than the Japanese junks, and better sea
boats. The sampans are long boats, pointed at both ends, and provided
with a small awning. They have deep keels; and underneath the floor
there is one place for a cooking fire, another for an altar, and a
third where the children are stowed to be out of the way. In these
sampans whole families, sometimes five generations, live and move and
have their being. I never shall forget my astonishment when, going
ashore very early one morning in one of these strange craft, the
proprietor lifted up what I had thought was the bottom of the boat,
and disclosed three or four children, packed away as tight as
herrings, while under the seats were half-a-dozen people of larger
growth. The young mother of the small family generally rows with the
smallest baby strapped on to her back, and the next-sized one in her
arms, whom she is also teaching to row. The children begin to row by
themselves when they are about two years old. The boys have a gourd,
intended for a life-preserver, tied round their necks as soon as they
are born. The girls are left to their fate, a Chinaman thinking it
rather an advantage to lose a daughter or two occasionally.
Many of these sampan people have never set foot on shore in their
lives, and this water-life of China is one of the most extraordinary
features of the country. It is what strikes all travellers, and so has
tempted me to a digression.
A lieutenant from the flag-ship came on board and piloted us into a
snug berth, among the men-of-war, and close to the shore, where we
were immediately surrounded by sampans, and pestered by pertinacious
Chinese clambering on board. The donkey-engine, with well-rigged hose,
soon, however, cleared the decks, bulwarks, and gangways, and we were
not bothered any more.
[Illustration: How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them.]
After breakfast we landed on the Praya, a fine quay, extending the
whole length of the town. On it are situated many of the large stores,
offices, and markets of the city. The streets are wide and handsome,
and the buildings in European style, with deep verandahs and arcades,
all built of stone. The town is built on the side of a hill, with
ferny, moss-covered banks, overhung by tropical trees, close to some
of the principal offices. At the back are the mountains, the peak
overhead, with the signal station on the top, always busily at work,
making and answering signals with flags as ships and junks enter or
leave the harbour. Soldiers and sailors abound in the streets; and if
it were not for the sedan-chairs and palanquins, in which everybody is
carried about by Chinese coolies with enormous hats, one might easily
fancy oneself at dear old Gib., so much do these dependencies of the
Crown in foreign countries resemble one another, even in such
opposite quarters of the globe.
We were very anxious to leave the yacht here and to go up to Canton;
but we find there is no possible hotel at the latter place. This is
rather unfortunate, as, after our long residence on board, and all the
knocking about at sea, the yacht requires repairing and refitting. She
looks very well painted white, and the change is a great comfort in
hot weather; but white paint does not wear well, and in order to
maintain her good looks she ought to receive a fresh coat at every
port. We can only go up the Pearl River at the very top of the tide,
for in several places there are not fourteen feet of water over the
shoals. It will, therefore, take us two or three days to accomplish
what the steamers do in six hours, and a great waste of time will be
involved.
To-day, for the first time, we have heard 'pidgin English' seriously
spoken. It is very trying to one's composure to hear grave merchants,
in their counting-houses, giving important orders to clerks and
compradors in what sounds, until one gets accustomed to it, like the
silliest of baby-talk. The term really means 'business English;' and
certain it is that most Chinamen you meet understand it perfectly,
though you might just as well talk Greek as ordinary English to them.
'Take piecey missisy one piecey bag topside,' seems quite as difficult
to understand as 'Take the lady's bag upstairs' would be; but it is
easier to a Chinaman's intellect.
From the Praya we went up the hill to write our names in the
Governor's book. It was a beautiful road all the way, running between
lovely gardens and beneath shady trees. Government House is a fine
building, situated on a high point of land, commanding extensive views
in every direction. After a pleasant chat we descended the hill again,
and proceeded to the Hongkong hotel for tiffin. It does not seem a
very desirable abode, being large, dirty, and ill-kept. At one
o'clock a bell rang, and the visitors all rushed in and took their
places at various little tables, and were served with a 'scrambly'
sort of meal by Chinese boys.
After this, a carriage was sent for us, and we drove to the
race-course. This is the fourth and last day of the races, and there
is to be a ball to-night to wind up with, to which everybody seems to
be going. The drive was a very pleasant one, the road presenting a
most animated appearance, with crowds of soldiers, sailors, Chinamen,
Parsees, Jews, all hurrying along by the side of the numerous
sedan-chairs and carriages. We were puzzled to imagine where, on this
rocky, hilly island, there could possibly be found a piece of ground
flat enough for a race-course. But the mystery was solved when we
reached a lovely little valley, about two miles from the town, where
we found a very fair course, about the size of that at Chester, but
not so dangerous. The grand stand is a picturesque object, with its
thatched roof, verandahs, and sun-blinds. The interior, too, looks
comfortably arranged, and certainly contains the most luxurious
basket-chairs one could possibly desire. There are a lawn and a
paddock attached, and very good temporary stables, over many of which
are private stands and tiffin-rooms.
Hongkong races are a great event, and people come down from Canton,
Shanghai, Macao, and all sorts of places for them. Everybody knows
everybody, and it seems to be altogether a most pleasant social
meeting. Many ladies were present. Some of the races were capital, the
little Chinese ponies scuttling along at a great pace under their big
riders, whose feet seemed almost to touch the ground. There was also a
race for Australian horses. But the most amusing event of all was the
last scramble for Chinese ponies ridden by Chinese boys, in which
horses and riders seemed to be exactly suited to one another.
The sun went down, and it grew cold and dark before all was over. The
gentlemen walked back to the town, and I went down to the
landing-place in solitary state, in a carriage driven by an Indian
coachman, attended by a Chinese footman. I was immediately surrounded
by a vociferating crowd, each individual member of which was anxious
to extol the merits of his own sampan. The carriage having driven off,
I was quite alone, and had some difficulty in dispersing them, and
being allowed to enter the sampan I had selected. However, I did
succeed at last, and making my boatmen understand that they were to
take me to 'the white ship,' as the yacht is generally called,
returned on board to rest.