HONOLULU--DEPARTURE FOR JAPAN.
_Years following years, steal something every day;_
_At last they steal us from ourselves away._
_Monday, January 1st, 1877_.--At midnight we were awakened by our
ship's bell, and that of the 'Fantôme,' being struck violently sixteen
times. For the moment I could not imagine what it meant, and thought
it must be an alarm of fire; indeed, it was not until Tom and I
reached the deck, where we found nearly all the ship's company
assembled at the top of the companion, and were greeted with wishes
for 'A happy New Year, and many of them,' that we quite realised that
nothing serious was the matter. Soon the strains of sweet music,
proceeding from the Honolulu choirs, which had come out in boats to
serenade us, fell upon our ears The choristers remained alongside for
more than an hour, singing English and American sacred and secular
hymns and songs, and then went off to the 'Fantôme,' where they
repeated the performance. The moon shone brightly; not a ripple
disturbed the surface of the water; the cocoa-trees at Waikiki, and
the distant mountains near the Pali, were all clearly defined against
the dark blue sky. It was altogether a romantic and delicious scene,
and we found it difficult to tear ourselves away from the sweet sounds
which came floating over the sea.
When I again went on deck, at half-past six, there was a large double
canoe close to the yacht, crowded with people. It was difficult to
make out what they were doing, for they appeared to be sitting on a
great heap of something, piled up between the two canoes. Our sailors
suggested that it must be 'some sort of a New Year's set out.' I
ordered the 'Flash' to be got ready, and went with the children to
make a closer investigation; and, as we approached, we could see that
the pile that had puzzled us was a huge fishing-net. The tide here is
very uncertain; but as soon as the water is low enough, they stretch
the long net right across the narrow mouth of the harbour, and so
secure an enormous quantity of fish of various kinds. It was a really
good New Year's haul, and provided a hearty meal for a great many
people.
Mabelle and I went at twelve o'clock to the Queen's New Year's
reception, held in the other wing of the palace. Having driven through
the pretty gardens, we were received at the entrance by the Governor,
and ushered through two reception rooms into the royal presence. The
Queen was dressed in a European court-dress, of blue and white
material, with the Hawaiian Order of the Garter across her breast. Two
maids of honour were also in court-dress. Of the other ladies, some
were in evening, some in morning dress, some with bonnets and some
without; but their costumes were all made according to the European
fashion, except that of her Highness Ruth, the Governess of Hawaii,
who looked wonderfully well in a rich white silk native dress, trimmed
with white satin. She had a necklace of orange-coloured _oo_ feathers
round her neck, and dark yellow alamanda flowers in her hair. This
native costume is a most becoming style of dress, especially to the
chiefs and chiefesses, who are all remarkably tall and handsome, with
a stately carriage and dignified manner. The Queen stood in front of
the throne, on which were spread the royal robes, a long mantle of
golden feathers, without speck or blemish. On each side stood two men,
dressed in black, wearing frock-coats, and capes of red, black, and
yellow feathers over their shoulders, and chimney-pot hats on their
heads. In their hands they held two enormous _kahilis_ of black _oo_
feathers, with handsome tortoise-shell and ivory handles. They were at
least eight feet high altogether, and the feathers were about six
inches across.
The Princess presented Mabelle and me to her Majesty, and we had a
short conversation through a lady interpreter. It is always an
embarrassing thing to carry on a conversation in this way, especially
when you find yourself in the midst of a square formed by a large
crowd of ladies, who you fancy are all gazing at you, the one stranger
present, and I was glad when fresh people arrived, and her Majesty's
attention was claimed elsewhere.
Queen Kapiolani is a nice-looking woman, with a very pleasing
expression of countenance. She is the granddaughter of the heroic
Princess Kapiolani, who, when the worship and fear of the goddess Pélé
were at their height, walked boldly up to the crater of Kilauea, in
defiance of the warnings and threats of the high-priestess of the
idolatrous rites, proclaiming her confidence in the power of her God,
the God of the Christians, to preserve her. This act did much to
assist in the establishment of Christianity in the Island of Hawaii,
and to shake the belief of the native worshippers of Pélé in the power
of the fearful goddess.
The Princess showed me round the room which contains the portraits of
the kings and queens of the Sandwich Islands for many generations, the
early ones attired in their feather capes, the later ones dressed in
European costumes. Most of them were the work of native artists, but
the portraits of Kamehameha II. and his queen were painted, during
their visit to England, by a good artist. Their Majesties are depicted
in the height of the fashion of the day, the king wearing a blue coat
and brass buttons, with many orders on his breast, the queen having on
a very short-waisted, tight-fitting white satin dress, a turban
surmounted by a tremendous plume of white feathers, and a pearl
necklace and bracelets: rather a trying costume for a handsome woman
with a dark complexion and portly figure. They both died in England,
and their remains were brought back here for burial, in H.M.S.
'Blonde,' commanded by Lord Byron. There was also a portrait of
Admiral Thomas, whose memory is highly reverenced here for the happy
way in which he succeeded in terminating the disputes arising out of
our claim to the island in 1843, and in restoring King Kamehameha III.
to his own again.
[Illustration: Feathered Cloak and Helmets.]
The collection likewise included excellent portraits of Louis Philippe
and Napoleon III. Curiously enough, each of these was sent off from
France to the Sandwich Islands, by way of Cape Horn, while the
original was in the zenith of his power and fame; and each reached its
destination after the original had been deposed and had fled to
England for refuge.
But the most interesting object of all was still to come--the real
feather cloak, cape, and girdle of the Kamehamehas, not generally to
be seen, except at a coronation or christening, but which the Princess
Kamakaeha, in her capacity of Mistress of the Robes, had kindly
ordered to be put out for my inspection. The cloak, which is now the
only one of the kind in existence, is about eleven feet long by five
broad, and is composed of the purest yellow, or rather golden,
feathers, which, in the sunlight, are perfectly gorgeous, as they have
a peculiar kind of metallic lustre, quite independent of their
brilliant colour.
[Illustration: The Pali-Oahu]
On leaving the palace I had intended to get some lunch at the hotel,
but found that establishment was closed to the general public, and was
in the possession of a native teetotal society; so I was obliged to
return to the yacht. At half-past three, however, we all went ashore
again, and set out on horseback, a large party, for an excursion to
the Pali, the children, servants, and provisions preceding us in a
light two-horse American wagon. We rode through the Nuuanu Avenue, and
then up the hills, along a moderately good road, for about seven miles
and a half. This, brought us into a narrow gorge in the midst of the
mountains, from which we emerged on the other side of the central
range of hills, forming the backbone of the island. The view from this
point was beautiful, though I think that the morning would be a better
time to enjoy it, as, with a setting sun, the landscape was all in
shadow. The change of temperature, too, after the heat of Honolulu,
was quite astonishing, considering the short distance we had
come--about eight miles only. The carriage could not go quite to the
top of the mountain, and after descending a short distance to where it
had been left, we dismounted and spread our dinner on the ground; but
darkness overtook us before we had finished. Matches and lamps had of
course been forgotten; so that the business of packing up was
performed under circumstances of great difficulty. The ride down, in
the light of the almost full moon, was delightful.
We were on board by half-past seven, and went ashore to a ball at nine
o'clock. The dance took place in the large room of the Hawaiian Hotel,
and was a great success. The Royal band played for us, and there was
neither stuffiness nor crowding, nor were there any regulations as to
dress, gentlemen and ladies coming in evening or morning dress, as it
suited them best. The Governor and most of the English present,
including our own party, wore evening dress, and the officers of the
'Fantôme' were in uniform. Every door and window was open, there was a
large verandah to sit in, a garden to stroll about in between the
dances, and an abundance of delicious iced lemonade--very different
from the composition thus named which is generally met with in London
assemblies--to drink. At half-past twelve, when people were beginning
to disperse, we took our departure, Captain Long taking us off to the
yacht in his boat.
There is to be another ball on Thursday night, for which everybody is
most anxious that we should stay, as it is to be rather a large
affair. In order that you may see the Hawaiian fashion of sending out
cards, I copy the form of invitation we received:--
_The pleasure of the company of Mr. and Mrs.
Thos. Brassey is requested at a Subscription Ball,
at the Hawaiian Hotel,_
ON THURSDAY EVENING, JANUARY 4, 1877, AT 8 O'CLOCK.
_Respectfully, H.A. Widemann,_
FOR THE COMMITTEE.
_Mrs. Jas. Makee and Mrs. J.S. McGrew will kindly act as matrons
of the evening._
_Tuesday, January 2nd_.--At eleven o'clock, the King, who was rather
better, went on board the 'Fantôme,' saw the men at quarters, and
witnessed the firing of a couple of shots at a target, and shortly
before twelve paid us a visit, accompanied by the Prince Leleiohoku
and others. His Majesty is a tall, fine-looking man, with pleasant
manners, and speaks English perfectly and fluently. He and the Prince
visited and examined every corner of the yacht, and looked, I think,
at almost every object on board. The pictures, curiosities, engines,
and our various little contrivances for economising space, seemed to
interest them the most. The inspection occupied at least an hour and a
half; and when it was over, we had a long chat on deck on various
subjects. The Prince of Wales's visit to India, and the Duke of
Edinburgh's voyage round the world, were much discussed, I think the
King would like to use them as a precedent, and see a little more of
the world himself. His voyage to, and stay in America, he thoroughly
enjoyed.
It was two o'clock before our visitors left; and a quarter of an hour
later the Queen and her sister arrived. Her Majesty and her sister
made quite as minute an inspection of the yacht as her royal consort
and his brother had done before them. We had arranged to be 'at home'
to all our kind friends in Honolulu at four o'clock, at which hour
precisely the Governor sent the Royal band on board to enliven the
proceedings. Soon our other visitors began to arrive; but the Queen
appeared to be so well amused that she did not leave until five
o'clock. By-half-past six, the last of our guests (over 150 in number)
had said farewell, and there only remained the band to be shown round
and feasted after their labours. Tom went on board the 'Fantôme' to
dine, and to meet the British, French, German, and American
representatives. We went to the hotel; and I must say that I never in
my life felt more thoroughly worn out than I did that night, after
standing about and receiving and entertaining all the day.
_Wednesday, January 3rd_.--This was sure to be a disagreeable day,
since it was to be the concluding one of our short stay in this
pleasant place. The final preparations for a long voyage had also to
be made; stores, water, and live stock to be got on board, bills to be
paid, and adieux to be made to kind friends.
I was on deck at six o'clock, in order to take some photographs and to
stow away the coral, shells, curiosities, and presents of various
kinds, that the King, Queen, Prince and Princess, as well as other
kind friends, had sent us. Before seven the yacht was surrounded by
boats, and the deck was quite impassable, so encumbered was it with
all sorts of lumber, waiting to be stowed away, until the boats could
be hoisted on board and secured for the voyage. The large mizen-sail,
which had just been repaired and sent on board, looked enormous as it
lay on the deck, surrounded by hen-coops, sheep, geese, sacks of coal,
and baskets and parcels of every size and shape. One really began to
wonder whether space could possibly be found on board for such a
miscellaneous collection. Several visitors, who had been unable to
come yesterday, arrived in the midst of the confusion. They must have
carried away in their minds a different impression of the yacht from
what they would have done had they seen her looking as trim and smart
as she did yesterday. It could not, however, be helped; for the
departure of a small vessel, with forty people on board, on a voyage
of a month's duration, is a matter requiring considerable preparation.
At eleven o'clock we landed and went to see the interior of the
Queen's Hospital. It is a fine and well-kept building, containing, at
the time of our visit, about ninety patients, the men occupying the
lower, the women the upper story. Each ward is tastefully decorated
with bouquets, and the name is written up in bright mauve
bougainvillea or scarlet hibiscus, tacked on to white calico. Many of
the convalescents wore wreaths and garlands of flowers, and even those
in bed had a few beside them, or in some cases a single spray laid on
the coverlet. The effect was bright and cheerful; and it seemed a kind
and sensible idea to endeavour to gratify, instead of to repress, the
instinctive love of flowers universally felt by the natives of these
and of the South Sea Islands.
From the hospital we went to pay farewell visits, to lunch at the
hotel, and to settle sundry bills. At three we were to go to the Royal
Mausoleum. This was a special privilege, and, I believe, the greatest
compliment that has been paid to us anywhere. No foreigners are
allowed to enter, except admirals on the station; and very few
inhabitants of Honolulu have ever seen the interior. The King has one
key, the Dowager Queen Emma another, and the Minister of the Interior
the third.
On our way up the hill to the Mausoleum, there was a funeral going on,
very much after the style of an Irish wake in one of the dwellings of
the poorer class. The house was decorated with flags, and was crowded
with people, all dressed in black, and generally with bright yellow
_leis_ over their heads and necks. They had evidently come from some
distance, judging by the number of carts and wagons drawn up outside
the door. Several people were sitting in an upper verandah. The corpse
was laid out in the lower room, facing the road, as we could see
through the open windows and door. It was surrounded by mourners, and
four women were waving large _kahilis_ slowly backwards and forwards
in front of it.
The Princess herself met us at the Mausoleum, which is a small but
handsome stone Gothic building, situated above the Nuuanu Avenue, on
the road to the Pali. It commands a fine view over land and sea, and
the gentle breezes waft through the open windows sweet scents from the
many fragrant trees and flowers by which it is surrounded. There lay
the coffins of all the kings of Hawaii, their consorts, and their
children, for many generations past. The greater part were of polished
_koa_ wood, though some were covered with red velvet ornamented with
gold. Many of them appeared to be of an enormous size; for, as I have
already observed, the chiefs of these islands have almost invariably
been men of large and powerful frames. The bones of Kamehameha I. were
in a square oak chest. At the foot of the coffin of Kamehameha IV.
there were two immense _kahilis_ about twelve feet high, one of
rose-coloured, the other of black feathers, with tortoise-shell
handles. The remains of King Luna'ilo are not here, having been buried
just outside the native church in the town. In the vestibule to the
tombs of the kings rests the coffin of Mr. Wylie, described as 'the
greatest European benefactor of the Hawaiian people.' A ship now in
the harbour bears his name, and one constantly meets with proofs of
the respect and reverence in which his name is held.
The Princess drove us down to the wharf, where we said good-bye to her
with feelings of the greatest regret. I cannot express the sorrow
that we all feel at leaving the many kind friends we have met with in
'dear Honolulu,' as Muriel calls it. But the farewells were at last
over, the anchor was weighed, and the yacht, which was by this time
once more in apple-pie order, began slowly to move ahead. Suddenly we
heard shouts from the shore, and saw a boat pursuing us in hot haste.
We stopped, and received on board a basket of beautiful ferns and
other parcels from different friends. A second boat was then seen
coming off to us, which contained a fine dish of delicious honey and
some flowers. The order to go ahead again was scarcely given, before a
third boat, in, if possible, hotter haste than the two previous ones,
put off after us, bringing some things the laundress had forgotten.
[Illustration: ZEUS CILIARIS]
Now we are fairly off; and now surely the last link that binds us to
the shore is broken. But no! there are farewell signals and hearty
cheers yet to come from the officers and men of the 'Fantôme;' and,
still further out, on the top of the tiny lighthouse at the mouth of
the narrow passage through the reef, stand other friends, cheering and
waving their handkerchiefs. They had rowed out thither, being
determined to give us really _the_ parting cheer, and till the shades
of twilight fell we could see their white handkerchiefs fluttering,
and hear their voices borne on the evening breeze, as we meandered
slowly through the tortuous channels into deep water.
Once outside we found there was plenty of wind and a heavy roll, which
sent me quickly to bed.