LIFE ON THE PAMPAS.
_There's tempest in yon horned moon,_
_And lightning in yon cloud;_
_But hark the music, mariners!_
_The wind is piping loud._
_Saturday, September 16th_.--Waking at half-past five, we busied
ourselves until nine o'clock, when we again started in a special train
for Carcaraña. After a short stop at Roldan, it was reached two hours
later, and breakfast was followed by a long ride through the Land
Company's colony, and from thence to Candelaria, a purely Spanish
settlement.
I freely confess that I had hardly believed all the stories they told
me last night about the terrible doings of the locusts, and thought
they must have been slightly exaggerated. It all seemed too dreadful
to be true--as if one of the plagues of Egypt had been revived by the
wand of an evil magician. In this somewhat incredulous mood I rashly
said that, although I was very sorry to hear of the visit of these
destructive creatures, as they _were_ unfortunately here, I should
like to see them. My wish was shortly to be gratified; for, in the
course of our ride, we saw in the distant sky what looked very much
like a heavy purple thunder-cloud, but which the experienced
pronounced to be a swarm of locusts. It seemed impossible; but as we
proceeded they met us, first singly, and then in gradually increasing
numbers, until each step became positively painful, owing to the smart
blows we received from them on our heads, faces, and hands. We
stopped for a time at Mr. Holt's large estancia, where,
notwithstanding the general appearance of prosperity, the traces of
the ravages of the locusts were only too visible. On remounting, to
proceed on our journey, we found that the cloud had approached much
nearer, the effect produced by its varying position being most
extraordinary. As the locusts passed between us and the sun they
completely obscured the light; a little later, with the sun's rays
shining directly on their wings, they looked like a golden cloud, such
as one sometimes sees in the transformation scene of a pantomime; and,
at a greater distance, when viewed from the top of a slight eminence,
they looked like a snow-storm, or a field of snow-white marguerites,
which had suddenly taken to themselves wings. When on the ground, with
their wings closed, they formed a close mass of little brown specks,
completely hiding the ground and crops, both grass and grain. In
riding over them, though not a quarter of their number could rise, for
want of space in which to spread their wings, they formed such a dense
cloud that we could see nothing else, and the horses strongly objected
to face them. They got into one's hair and clothes, and gave one the
creeps all over. I am sure I shall often dream of them for some time
to come, and I have quite made up my mind that I never wish to see
another locust as long as I live. I have, however, secured some fine
specimens for any one who is curious about them.
The land we passed through appeared to be well farmed. We spoke to
several of the colonists, especially to one Italian family, living in
a little mud rancho with a tile roof. They were all gathered together
to witness the dying agonies of one of their best cows, perishing from
the effects of the drought. The rest of the animals in the corral
looked, I am sorry to say, thin and miserable, and as if they intended
soon to follow their companion's example. The poor people,
nevertheless, seemed very cheery and contented, and hospitably gave
us each a drink of some remarkably muddy water.
After a thirty-mile ride under a hot sun, fortunately on the easiest
of horses, we were none of us sorry to stop for a short time at
Carcaraña, and obtain some refreshment, before proceeding--horses,
carriage, and all--by train to Rosario, another colony on the line.
Arrived at the latter place, I thought I had had enough riding for the
first day, and therefore visited the various farms and houses in the
carriage, the rest of the party going, as before, on horseback. After
a round of about fifteen miles, we returned to the station, where we
were kindly received by the sister of the station-master. An excellent
dinner was provided for us in the refreshment-room, before we entered
our special train, and Rosario was reached at about ten o'clock.
_Sunday, September 17th_.--A kind friend sent his carriage to take us
to the English church, a brick building, built to replace the small
iron church that existed here previously, and only opened last month.
The service was well performed, and the singing of the choir
excellent. We paid a visit to the Sunday schools after luncheon, and
then drove to the quinta of Baron Alvear. The road lies through the
town, past the race-course, crowded with Gauchos, getting up scratch
races amongst themselves, and on, over undulating plains and
water-courses, into the open country. Sometimes there was a track,
sometimes none. In some places the pastures were luxuriantly green; in
others the ground was carpeted with white, lilac, and scarlet verbena,
just coming into bloom--for it is still early spring here. Here and
there came a bare patch, completely cleared by the locusts, who had
also stripped many of the fine timber trees in the garden of the
quinta. On the gate-posts, at the entrance, were the nests of two
oven-birds, like those we had already seen on the telegraph-posts, so
exactly spherical as to look like ornaments. In one of the shrubberies
a fine jaguar was shut up in a cage, who looked very like a tiger.
Though he had evidently just had his dinner, he was watching with
greedy interest the proceedings of some natives in charge of a
horse--an animal which he esteems a great delicacy, when procurable.
On our way across the camp we saw a great quantity of the seeds of the
Martynia proboscidea, mouse-burrs as they call them,--devil's claws or
toe-nails: they are curious-looking things, as the annexed woodcut
will show.
[Illustration: Devils Horns]
Frank Buckland has a theory--and very likely a correct one--that they
are created in this peculiar form for the express purpose of attaching
themselves to the long tails of the wild horses that roam about the
country in troops of hundreds. They carry them thousands of miles, and
disseminate the seed wherever they go at large in search of food and
water.
When we returned to Rosario we noticed a great crowd still on the
race-course, and were just in time to see the finish of one race,
ridden barebacked, and for a very short distance. All the races are
short; and as the natives are always engaging in these little contests
of speed, the horses get into the habit of extending themselves
directly you put them out of a walk. But the least touch is sufficient
to stop them immediately, and I never saw horses better broken than
they are here. The most fearful bits are used for the purpose; but
when once this is accomplished, the mere inclination of the body, or
the slightest pressure of the finger upon the bridle, is sufficient to
guide them. They will maintain, for almost any length of time, a quick
canter--what they call here 'a little gallop'--at the rate of three
leagues (ten miles) an hour, without showing the slightest sign of
fatigue. They don't like being mounted, and always fidget a little
then, but are quite quiet directly you are in the saddle. I rode
several horses which had never carried a lady before; but after the
first few minutes they did not seem to mind the riding-habit in the
least. They evidently dislike standing still, unless you dismount and
throw the rein on the ground, when they will remain stationary for
hours.
_Monday, September 18th_.--The early part of this morning was spent in
much the same way as on Saturday, Tom going as before to the Land
Company's Office, whilst I remained at home to write.
At nine o'clock we proceeded to the station, and started in our
comfortable railway carriage for Tortugas. We formed quite a large
party altogether, and the journey over the now familiar line, past
Roldan, Carcaraña, and Cañada de Gomez, was a very pleasant one. At
Tortugas we left the train, and paid a visit to one of the overseers
of the colony and his cheery little French wife, who, we found, had
been expecting us all day on Saturday. A few weeks ago this lady's
sister was carried off by Indians, with some other women and children.
After riding many leagues, she seized her opportunity, pushed the
Indian who was carrying her off his horse, turned the animal's head
round, and galloped back across the plain, hotly pursued, until within
a mile or two of the colony, by the rest of the band. It was a plucky
thing for a little bit of a woman to attempt with a great powerful
savage, and she is deservedly looked upon in the village as quite a
heroine.
The journey between Rosario and Cordova occupies twelve hours by the
ordinary train; and as Frayle Muerto is exactly half-way between the
two places, the trains going in either direction commence their
journey at the same hours (6 a.m. and 6 p.m.), by which means the
passengers meet each other here in time to breakfast and dine
together. There is a fine bridge over the river near Frayle Muerto,
but the place is principally celebrated as having been the site of the
Henleyite colony, which caused disappointment to so many young men of
family, who were induced to come out here from England and to go up
country, with no other result than the loss of all their money. The
scheme was supposed to be perfect in all its details, but proved upon
a closer acquaintance to be utterly worthless. The iron church at
Rosario is still standing, which the members of the expedition took up
there, and we have also met some of the young men themselves at
various times.
The train did not reach Cordova until 7.30 p.m., and it was therefore
too late for us to see much of the approach to the city, but to-morrow
we intend to do a good deal in that way. In the middle of the night we
were aroused by a violent thunderstorm. The lightning was most vivid,
and illuminated our room with many colours. The rain fell heavily,
flooding everything, and making the streets look like rivers, and the
courtyard of the hotel like a lake. It is one of the oldest, and, at
the same time, one of the most unhealthy, of the cities of South
America, for it is built in the hollow of the surrounding hills, where
no refreshing breezes can penetrate.
Travelling in Brazil is like passing through a vast hothouse, filled
with gorgeous tropical vegetation and forms of insect life. In the
neighbourhood of Monte Video you might imagine yourself in a perpetual
greenhouse. Here it is like being in a vast garden, in which the
greenest of turf, the brightest of bedding-out plants, and the most
fragrant flowering shrubs abound. Each country, therefore, possesses
its own particular beauty, equally attractive in its way.
Shortly after leaving Cordova we passed through an Indian village;
but, except at this point, we did not meet many natives during our
ride. One poor woman, however, whom we did unfortunately encounter,
had a fall from her horse, owing to the animal being frightened at the
umbrella I carried, yet my own horse had, after a very brief
objection, quietly submitted to the introduction of this novelty into
the equipment of his rider.
[Illustration: La Calera.]
We found that the hotel on the Caldera for which we were bound was
shut up; but one of the party had the keys, and an excellent lunch
quickly made its appearance. The view from the verandah, over the
river, to the Sierras beyond, was very fine. It had become quite hot
by this time, and I was much interested in seeing all our horses taken
down to the water to bathe. They appeared to be perfectly familiar
with the process; and, the river being shallow, they picked out all
the nice holes between the boulders, where they could lie down and be
completely covered by the water. Just as we were starting to return,
black clouds gathered from all around; the lightning flashed, the
thunder muttered, and big drops began to fall. But the storm was not
of long duration, and we escaped the worst part of it, though we had
ample evidence of its severity during our homeward ride, in the
slippery ground, the washed-away paths, and the swollen ditches. We
stopped half-way to see the drowning out of some poor little bizcachas
from their holes. The water had been turned into their dwellings by
means of trenches, and as the occupants endeavoured to make their
escape at the other end they were pounced upon by men and dogs; the
prairie-owls meanwhile hovering disconsolately overhead. Two of the
gentlemen of our party each managed to purchase a living bizcacha,
which was then wrapped up in a handkerchief and conveyed home. When
young they are pretty little creatures, and are easily tamed.
It was late when we reached Cordova; but I was anxious to visit the
Observatory before our departure, as it is one of the best, though not
by any means the largest, in the world. Professor Gould, the
astronomer, is away just at present, but we were kindly received by
Mrs. Gould, who conducted us over the building. They have a fine
collection of various instruments and some wonderful photographs of
the principal stars--Saturn, with his ring and eight moons, Jupiter,
with his four moons, Venus, Mercury, &c. If we could have stayed
longer we might have seen much more; but it was now quite dark, and we
had only just time for a short visit to the observing room itself. Our
ride down to the city in the dark would have been exceedingly risky if
our horses had been less sure-footed, for the roads had been washed
away in many places, but we reached the bottom of the Observatory hill
in safety, and shortly afterwards arrived at the hotel just in time
for dinner.
After dinner we drove to the station, where we found all our own party
assembled, and many more people, who had come to see us off. I was
given the Chilian bit used for the horse I rode to-day, as a
remembrance of my visit. It is a most formidable-looking instrument
of torture, and one which I am sure my dear little steed did not in
the least require; but I suppose the fact of having once felt it, when
being broken in, is sufficient for a lifetime, for the horses here
have certainly the very lightest mouths I ever met with. A gift of a
young puma, or small lion, was also waiting for me. It is about four
months old, and very tame; but, considering the children, I think it
will be more prudent to pass it on to the Zoo, in London.
The train started at 8.30 p.m. and took an hour to reach Rio Segundo,
where we found tea and coffee prepared. After that we proceeded to
make our arrangements for the night; some of the gentlemen sleeping in
the saloon-carriages, and some on beds made up in the luggage-van. Tom
and I turned into our two cozy little berths, and knew nothing more
until we were called at 4.30 a.m. at Cañada de Gomez. The lamp had
gone out, and we found it rather difficult work dressing and packing
in the cold and dark; but it was soon done, and a cup of hot coffee in
the refreshment-room afterwards made us feel quite comfortable.
Then we all separated: Captain Dunlop to join his ship; Tom to
complete his report on the colonies of the Central Argentine Land
Company, which he is preparing in compliance with the request of the
Directors in London; while the rest of the party awaited the arrival
of the waggonette which was to take us to the estancia of Las Rosas.
_Wednesday, September 20th_.--At 6.30 a.m. the waggonette arrived, a
light but strong, unpainted vehicle, drawn by a pair of active little
well-bred horses, both of whom had been raced in their day. There were
but a few leagues of cultivated ground to be passed before we reached
the broad, undulating, solitary Pampas, where for some time the only
visible signs of life were to be found in the Teru-tero birds (a sort
of plover), who shrieked discordantly as we disturbed their repose;
the partridges, large and small, put up by the retriever who
accompanied us; some prairie fowls; a great many hawks, of all sizes;
and the pretty little wydah-birds, with their two immense tail
feathers, four times the length of their bodies. The first glimpse of
the far-spreading prairie was most striking in all its variations of
colour. The true shade of the Pampas grass, when long, is a light
dusty green; when short it is a bright fresh green. But it frequently
happens that, owing to the numerous prairie-fires, either accidental
or intentional, nothing is to be seen but a vast expanse of black
charred ground, here and there relieved by a few patches of vivid
green, where the grass is once more springing up under the influence
of the rain.
The road, or rather track, was in a bad condition, owing to the recent
wet weather, and on each side of the five _cañadas_, or small rivers,
which we had to ford, there were deep morasses, through which we had
to struggle as best we could, with the mud up to our axletrees. Just
before arriving at the point where the stream had to be crossed, the
horses were well flogged and urged on at a gallop, which they
gallantly maintained until the other side was reached. Then we stopped
to breathe the horses and to repair damages, generally finding that a
trace had given way, or that some other part of the harness had shown
signs of weakness. On one occasion we were delayed for a considerable
time by the breaking of the splinter-bar, to repair which was a
troublesome matter; indeed, I don't know how we should have managed it
if we had not met a native lad, who sold us his long lasso to bind the
pieces together again. It was a lucky _rencontre_ for us, as he was
the only human being we saw during the whole of our drive of thirty
miles, except the peon who brought us a change of horses, half-way.
In the course of the journey we passed a large estancia, the road to
which was marked by the dead bodies and skeletons of the poor beasts
who had perished in the late droughts. Hundreds of them were lying
about in every stage of decay, those more recently dead being
surrounded by vultures and other carrion-birds. The next _cañada_ that
we crossed was choked up with the carcases of the unfortunate
creatures who had struggled thus far for a last drink, and had then
not had sufficient strength left to extricate themselves from the
water. Herds of miserable-looking, half-starved cattle were also to be
seen, the cows very little larger than their calves, and all
apparently covered with the same rough shaggy coats. The pasture is
not fine enough in this part of the country to carry sheep, but deer
are frequently met with.
A little later we again began to approach cultivated land, and a mile
or two further brought us to a broad road, with high palings on either
side, down which we drove, and through the yard, to the door of the
estancia. The house is a one-story building, one room wide, with a
verandah in front and at the back, one side of which faces the yard,
the other a well-kept garden, full of violets and other spring
flowers, and roses just coming into bloom. There are several smaller
detached buildings, in which the sleeping apartments are situated, and
which are also provided with verandahs and barred windows. Having
visited the various rooms, in company with our hosts, we sat down to a
rough but substantial breakfast, to which full justice was done.
Travelling all night, and a ride of thirty miles in the fresh morning
air, have a tendency to produce a keen appetite; and the present
occasion proved no exception to that rule.
After breakfast I rested and wrote some letters, while the gentlemen
inspected the farm and stud. The proprietor of this estancia has the
best horses in this part of the country, and has taken great pains to
improve their breed, as well as that of the cattle and sheep, by
importing thorough-breds from England. Unlike the Arabs, neither
natives nor settlers here think of riding mares, and it is considered
quite a disgrace to do so. They are therefore either allowed to run
wild in troops, or are used to trample out corn or to make mud for
bricks. They are also frequently killed and boiled down, for the sake
of their hides and tallow, the value of which does not amount to more
than about 10_s_. per head. Large herds of them are met with at this
time of the year on the Pampas, attended by a few horses, and
accompanied by their foals.
The natives of these parts pass their lives in the saddle. Horses are
used for almost every conceivable employment, from hunting and fishing
to brick-making and butter-churning. Even the very beggars ride about
on horseback. I have seen a photograph of one, with a police
certificate of mendicancy hanging round his neck, taken from life for
Sir Woodbine Parish. Every domestic servant has his or her own horse,
as a matter of course; and the maids are all provided with habits, in
which they ride about on Sundays, from one estancia to another, to pay
visits. In fishing, the horse is ridden into the water as far as he
can go, and the net or rod is then made use of by his rider. At Buenos
Ayres I have seen the poor animals all but swimming to the shore, with
heavy carts and loads, from the ships anchored in the inner roads; for
the water is so shallow that only very small boats can go alongside
the vessels, and the cargo is therefore transferred directly to the
carts to save the trouble and expense of transshipment. In
out-of-the-way places, on the Pampas, where no churns exist, butter is
made by putting milk into a goat-skin bag, attached by a long lasso to
the saddle of a peon, who is then set to gallop a certain number of
miles, with the bag bumping and jumping along the ground after him.
About four o'clock the horses--much larger and better bred animals
than those we have been riding lately--were brought round from the
corral. Mine was a beauty; easy, gentle, and fast. We first took a
canter round the cultivated ground, about 300 acres in extent, and in
capital condition. Lucerne grows here splendidly, and can be cut seven
times a year. As we left the yard, Mr. Nield's man asked if he would
take the dogs. He replied in the negative; but I suppose he must have
referred to the greyhounds only, for we were certainly accompanied on
the present occasion by _eleven_ dogs of various sorts and sizes,
those left behind being shut up and kept without food, in anticipation
of the stag-hunt to-morrow. We rode over the race-course, where the
horses are trained, and on to the partridge ground. The larger kind of
these birds are extremely stupid, and are easily ridden down by a
horseman, or caught in a noose. They rise three times, and after the
third flight they are so exhausted and terrified that it is easy to
dismount and catch them with the hand, as they lie panting on the long
grass. Partridge-hunting is considered good sport. It is necessary to
keep your eye constantly fixed upon the bird, and to watch where he
settles, and then to gallop to the spot as hard as possible, leaving
your horse to look after himself amid the long grass; and this
manoeuvre has to be repeated until at last the unfortunate bird is
overtaken and caught.
As we were riding along, the dogs found and killed a bizcacha, in a
bank. Just as Mr. Elliott had pulled it out, and had laid it, dead, in
the field, its little companion owl arrived, and appeared to be in the
most dreadful state of mind. It shrieked and cried, as it hovered over
us, and finally selected a small white fox terrier, who, I think,
really had been principally concerned in the death, as the object of
its vengeance, pouncing down upon his head, and giving him two or
three good pecks, at the same time flapping its wings violently. The
other dogs drove it off; but more than half an hour afterwards, while
we were looking at some horses, nearly a mile from the spot, the
plucky little owl returned to the charge, and again swooped down upon
the same dog, with a dismal cry, and administered a vigorous peck to
him. Altogether it was a striking and interesting proof of the
attachment existing between these curious birds and beasts; the object
of the owl in the present instance clearly being to revenge if
possible the death of its friend.
On our return to the farm, we went all round the place, and found that
everything was being made secure for the night; after which we watched
all the servants come in one by one for their daily ration of grog,
and then retired to dress for dinner, shortly after which, being
thoroughly tired out, I retired to my bed-room, attended by a very
kind old Irishwoman, who had been deputed to look after me. My mind
was at first somewhat disturbed by the discovery of one or two
enormous toads and long-armed spiders in my apartment; but they
fortunately did not interfere with my repose, for I slept like a top.
All the rooms being on the ground-floor, it is almost impossible
entirely to exclude intruders of this description. I admired very much
what I took to be two fine ponchos, of a delicate fawn-colour, used as
tablecloths, but upon a closer examination I found that they were made
of the finest silk, and learned afterwards that they were imported
from England. I don't know why the same material should not be
employed for a similar purpose at home; but I believe that those
manufactured hitherto have been designed expressly for the South
American market, to which they are exported in considerable
quantities.
_Thursday, September 21st_.--At five o'clock, when I awoke, it was so
misty that I could only see about half-way across the yard. By six,
the hour at which we were to have started on our hunting expedition,
matters had improved a little; but it was still considered unsafe to
venture out, for fear of being lost on the vast plains which
surrounded us. An hour later, however, it was reported that the fog
was clearing off, and a little before eight o'clock we started.
Horses, riders, and dogs, all appeared to be in the highest spirits,
the former jumping and frisking about, hardly deigning to touch the
ground, the latter tearing after one another and barking at every
stray bird they met. The pack numbered seventeen, and could hardly be
called a level lot of hounds, comprising, as it did, two deerhounds,
five well-bred greyhounds, two retrievers, one setter, one spaniel,
one French poodle, two fox terriers, one black and tan terrier, and
two animals of an utterly indescribable breed; but they all did their
work well, as the event proved. Even the shaggy fat old French poodle
arrived in each case before the deer was cut up.
Two deer were soon descried in the distance, and we cantered steadily
towards them at the rate of about ten miles an hour, until the dogs
winded and sighted them. Then, directly the first short yelp was
heard, every horse extended himself in an instant, galloping away as
hard as he could go, almost literally _ventre à terre_. They were
nearly all thoroughbreds, and had been raced, so that the speed was
something delightful. But it only lasted ten minutes, at the end of
which time the dogs ran into one of the deer, and thus put a temporary
stop to our enjoyment. He proved to be a fine buck, and was soon
killed. His legs were cut off for trophies, but, his horns being like
velvet, the head was not worth having. Some of the dogs pursued the
doe, but failed to pull her down, and returned half an hour later
fatigued and panting.
It had become hot by this time, so we rode to the nearest water, to
enable the animals to drink and bathe, and then started afresh at a
sharp canter. There were plenty of bizcacha holes and boggy places to
be avoided; but we allowed the horses to take care of themselves and
us in this respect, and occupied ourselves almost exclusively in
looking for fresh deer. For some time we found nothing; then two
sprang out of the long grass close to the _cañada_, which they
crossed, and, on reaching the other side, started off in different
directions. The pack pursued and divided, some going after each
animal. I, and two others of the party, followed the doe, and after
another short burst of ten minutes, at a tremendous pace, we ran into
and killed her. As soon as she had been despatched, we wanted to
follow the buck, in pursuit of which the rest of the riders had gone,
but there was now nothing to be seen of him or them. Flat as the
country looked, the slight undulations of the ground quite hid them
from our view. After riding about for two hours in various directions,
looking and listening most patiently, we abandoned the search in
despair, and returned to the house, where we found that our friends
had already arrived. They had enjoyed the best run they have had for
many months--seven miles, from point to point--but the dogs had lain
down, dead beat, at the end of the first six miles. The horsemen had
galloped on, their animals tailing off one by one, until only two
remained in it at all. Having mutually agreed to let the stag live
till another day to afford perhaps as good a run and as much pleasure
to some one else, they thereupon also abandoned the chase, and turned
their horses' heads homewards.
After a change of dress, we proceeded to pack up, preparatory to our
departure, and then had breakfast, after which we bade adieu to our
kind hosts, and started in the waggonette to retrace our steps to the
station. It was very bright and hot, and the sun and wind had already
begun to have a visible effect upon the vegetation of the Pampas. The
streams were much more passable, and we reached Cañada de Gomez at
about half-past five, in a shorter time, than it had taken us to
perform the outward journey yesterday. On reaching Rosario at about
ten o'clock, we found several friends waiting to receive us, with
invitations to tea; but we felt too tired in body and too disreputable
in appearance to accept them, and preferred going straight to our
hotel and to bed.