J. S. C.

I am not sure if I have got the leads which I got for my ink pencil.

If they are in the right hand top drawer of your writing table, will

you send them when you send my goggles?

Have not done anything about money yet for want of advice. It's no

use sending letters to Roland Stanley, he's too far away from

Montreal. He must wait till we get more settled. Please remember me

to everybody, particularly the Miss Bruces.

60, Aylmer Street,

Montreal,

_September 9th_, 1884.

My Dear Mother,

This letter is following pretty close on the heels of the other one.

and for this reason: I can't find any letter of introduction to Dr.

A. Howel or to Mrs. A. Howel, or any instructions as to calling

without an introduction in the epitome of my letters which father

gave me. I can't have lost it. You put them all up in a bundle, and

I never saw them till I opened my portmanteau at Sherbrooke.

Certainly I gave them to Henry to look over while I was writing as

he sat beside me, but he was so almost immoderately careful that I

do not think he can possibly have mislaid any of them. Anyhow it's

not here. If I am obliged to leave Montreal before I hear from you I

shall call on him and make my own explanations. But I don't know how

I could do that either, for I don't know if he was father's friend

or whether we got the introduction from someone else. Well, I shall

hang on as long as I can, and then go and beard him in his den as a

last resource. Now that's all the business I have to mention; it's

a bad job, but it can't be helped. Perhaps, after all, I never had

an introduction, and ought just to have called and mentioned the

father. I know he gave me a lot of directions when he read the list

over, but I can't remember them all, and only against one has he

made a note that no introduction is necessary. Yet there are about

half-a-dozen to whom I have not got letters, but whose names occur

the same as Roland Stanley. We've been hunting round, kicking up no

end of a dust, and called on and badgered scores of people. I have

already been twice to see a man called Van Haughton. He is some sort

of a boss on the Canadian Pacific Railway, and I am going again

to-morrow, though they don't want any men--at least not ordinary

men--but I am going to try and convince them that I am something

extraordinary. The ten pounds loose cash we brought out will only

last us another fortnight, but I have great hopes that Henry will

not need to draw more. Roland Stanley very kindly took him to a farm

to-day, a few miles from here, to see a man he knew, but the chap

wanted £50 per annum, so we declined. I was not able to go as I had

an appointment, but I don't think it made any difference, though

they didn't do any bargaining, only just asked him if he would take

him, and he said he would for the above-named sum. Some of the

introductions we brought out have been very useful--that to the

Darwins particularly. George, the elder son (I think) is a jewel. I

believe he would pop his Sunday coat if he thought it would do us

any good. He is strongly of opinion that Henry should advertise for

a job. He says he is certain that he would get lots of answers. But

I think it will be better to wait till we see what happens at

Sherbrooke, as by all accounts he could not do better than go to old

Crabtree. I think, with the prospect of his being shortly settled

there, you might write and explain (if possible) the matter of the

introduction--if we are not here they can forward the letter. 8

p.m.--We have just been down to the station to fetch some of our

baggage, having been told that we should have to pay for it if we

let it lie there, and as we did not wish to bestow any portion of

our capital on cabbies, we carried it up. The consequence is I feel

like this [Illustration: Hand bent at wrist.] as Pot would say. The

weather has been that hot since we came. By-the-bye, I meant to say

when I said that we had just been down to the station, that as I

felt so limp from carrying baggage on a hot night, you would have to

put up with bad writing, but I see it's just as good as what I

started with. It would all be better if Henry was'nt writing too--at

the same table I mean--which, being one of the round one-legged

arrangements usually met with in boarding-houses, is scarcely equal

to the weight of eloquence which he brings to bear upon it. I wonder

what he's writing about. You might just let me know what he says

next time you write. He's just bought some new pink paper to write

upon, and has already started several times with a most careful

beginning, so it ought to be something worth hearing. I have

suggested that he should give you his ideas concerning the crops of

this country, but his innate modesty debars him from giving an

opinion on a subject upon which he confesses himself at present

profoundly ignorant, notwithstanding that we went yesterday

afternoon (there being nothing else which could be done,) to the

great Dominion Agricultural Show, as befitted the incipient farmer,

and that I there carefully explained to him the points of interest

of all the exhibits in relation to which I was convinced that he was

as ignorant as myself. I am afraid, however, that he was rather

inclined to treat my explanations with levity, owing to a base and

misleading practice resorted to by the Committee, of hanging up

beside the stalls, though in not very conspicuous places, a

statement of the supposed race or species of each animal. These

prejudicial placards for a long time escaped my notice, so that I

was unable to fortify his perceptions with an account of the

pig-headedness of Agricultural Committees in this respect. The only

thing that I was entirely unable to explain, and the reason for

which I could by no means fathom, was the pertinent enquiry

constantly occurring, "why should one cow be given a first prize and

another none at all," when the only difference to the mind of a just

and impartial observer consisted in the variety of their attitudes

or colour. Being thus baffled in my attempts at edification, we

adjourned to see some niggers manufacturing tobacco.

Thursday evening.--I have just had a letter from Allen, saying that

he had three letters and a parcel waiting for us, so Henry has gone

down in great excitement with a post-card to tell him to send them

on as soon as possible. I wonder if they are from any of you people,

though I don't know what should make you think of addressing to us

there. It was rather a rummy thing his finding out our address, for

we didn't leave any; but just the other day, when looking over the

things in my despatch-box, I found a letter to Allen in Mr. Horton's

handwriting. I had'nt the least recollection of his having given me

anything of the sort, but I posted it down to Sherbrooke forthwith,

together with a note, making the best excuses I could for not having

delivered it before when I was on the spot, and of course I put my

address on the top. I should'nt wonder if one of the letters was the

lost introduction, which must have been left behind by some mistake.

We have been hunting about no end since we came here; calling on

everybody, from the man in the moon downwards, but do not at present

seem to have derived much benefit from it. I daresay Henry has told

you of a wild scheme in which Mr. Barnes wanted us to engage. He is

a most excellent old gentleman, the personification of good nature

and kindness, but is a good deal of a visionary on the agricultural

settlement question. When we called upon him on Saturday, he pressed

us most eloquently to up stick and go west with a friend or

connection of his, who was starting at nine o'clock on Monday

morning. He so far prevailed upon me that, in case there should be

anything in what he said, I went down to the bank and drew

sufficient money for our fares, and then returned to lunch with him

and the gentleman in question, a Mr. Deacon. In conversation with

him afterwards, he (Mr. Deacon) strongly advised us to do no such

thing. A branch line from the Canadian Pacific Railway, from Regina

to a place called Sussex, about thirty miles or so, which was to

have been graded this fall, and was to give me almost certain work

for the winter, would probably not be begun for some time, and the

land which Mr. Barnes had understood was along the railway in a

tolerably well-peopled district, turned out to be at the head of

Long Lake, eighty-four miles from Sussex, which is thirty miles from

Regina, not that those distances are anything great, but it meant,

in plain English, going and starting a farm 110 miles from the

nearest railway station, without a particle of knowledge or

experience. Still, we should have got the land for nothing; that

much was promised; and had I seen any chance amounting to five to

one that I should not have to spend my own money during the winter,

I should have gone, and, once well acquainted with the country, I

think we should have been able to live upon our land in some way

till I could trust myself to invest in a few implements. There must

be a fearful amount of gammon in the talk about this country

somewhere. I was told--in fact we were all told--that living in the

country was very cheap, and that living in Montreal was dear, but

according to Deacon it is just the reverse. He said he did not think

we could live in Regina, or thereabouts, supposing we got nothing to

do, under ten or twelve dollars a week, instead of five which we pay

here. I don't say that I believe it; someone must be in the wrong;

and until we can find out for ourselves it is impossible to say who

it is. It may just as well be Deacon as anyone else. Still, it would

have been unwise to go west so soon on pure speculation. The end of

it was the gentleman started away by himself, and Mr. Barnes said we

were quite right to stop where we were. He said, somehow or other,

he had managed to get a wrong impression of the whole affair. He has

since exerted himself a great deal in making enquiries in Henry's

behalf, and he gave me an introduction to a young fellow in the

Harbour Commissioner's office, which, however, did not prove of much

value. We have had to take our present diggings for another week,

not having been able to get finished up here in time. I do not want

to leave the place and leave any stone unturned, and there are

several people I can see yet. We see Roland Stanley nearly every

day, at a fish and game club where he introduced us, and which forms

a most convenient meeting place, &c. Like everyone else, he is very

good-natured, but his power of assisting us, so far, seems to lie

chiefly in his willingness to do so had he the power. He has given

over his farm to his son, and only kept his house and a few acres,

comprising his garden chiefly, so there is no chance of his taking

either of us. Holloway and Darwin are our two next best men; they

are both young, and both back us up most energetically. We are going

to spend the evening to-morrow with the Darwins, and on Sunday

evening we dine with the Holloways, which is a great improvement on

a crowded boarding-house. The latter is a partner in a well-to-do

hardware establishment, which means to say they import all sorts of

saws, chisels, axes, hammers, etc., from Sheffield; and the latter

is accountant in a bank here. He has got a mother and two sisters,

both possessing every claim to amiability. Holloway went with me on

Wednesday to the Grand Trunk Railway Works, and introduced me to

several people, and "boosted" me all he knew, but it was no go, they

sacked seventy-five men last month, and are going to do the same

again this month, things are "that" slack. Yesterday he took me down

to the Canadian Pacific Works, but the man we wanted was away, so we

are going again on Monday. There is also another man I am going to

see on Monday, who has a good-sized iron-foundry. I went down there

to-day, but he was out of town. Also I am going to see another

engineer to-morrow, so you see I am not done yet. I saw the son of

President Arthur, of the United States of America, this afternoon,

at the club, where he was detailing his sporting adventures, having

been away all summer in California and the Rockies, fishing and

shooting, which he seems to have done in a very luxurious manner, to

judge from his conversation. He talked about having engaged a Pulman

Hunting Car for his trip, &c., and, apropos of fishing, said he had

seen two natives netting salmon in some river or other, so he

"stopped the train" while he went to look on and try his hand at it.

By-the-bye, tell old Daddy that the pocket-book he gave me has

turned out the most useful thing in my possession, barring coin; in

fact, without it I should have been stumped, and had to buy one

before I left Liverpool. The little one you gave me would never have

held all the cards, letters, and business communications I have had

to cram into it. In fact, I verily believe its bulky proportions and

imposing air have obtained me an interview with many a big gun when

I should have been politely bowed out had I not produced it with the

sternness of a highwayman drawing his pistol, when I presented my

card. I must shut up or I shall lose the mail. Henry is writing also

by this post, but I wanted to tell you about the Howel introduction.

With best love to everybody all round,

Believe me,

Your loving Son,

J. SETON COCKBURN.

60 Aylmer Street,

Montreal, P.Q.,

_Sept. 20th_, '84.

My Dear Pot,

I daresay you would like to hear my opinions concerning the manners

and customs, _alias_ professional resources of this much talked of

country. When you told me that if I expected to drop in for an

appointment such as I would take in England after a fortnight's

search, I should be disappointed, you only predicted half the truth.

As far as I can see at present, it is equally a matter of difficulty

to obtain the sort of work upon which I was told on all hands it was

best to begin. I do not mean to say I have made a bad spec by coming

here, it would be much too soon for that even if I had been crumped

out of every shop I showed my nose in, which I have not by any

means, for I have met with more disinterested and sincere advice,

and have received more good-natured "boosting" in this country in an

hour than I found in the old country in a month. What I mean is,

that it seems rather harder, or at least quite as hard, to get work

of any sort, as a fitter, engine driver, or anything else _at once_.

I was told that for a sensible chap who would begin small, there was

lots of work to be had for the asking; in fact, that there was a

demand for what I may call professional labour, but that is a great

mistake. The works here, of every sort, are just as slack as they

are anywhere else, rather worse perhaps. I went to the Grand Trunk

and also the Canadian Pacific, but there was not the remotest

chance; they are cutting down everywhere, sacking men, clerks, and

draughtsmen hand-over-fist. The bosses were all good-natured, and

sometimes spoke to their subordinates themselves, to see, as they

said, if there was, or soon would, be, any vacancy, but there was

not; and in the face of any number of their old hands waiting to be

taken on again, there was small chance for a new comer. Of course

both the Grand Trunk and the Canadian Pacific Railways have been

running for some time, and are nearly finished, so it is not likely

that they will be increasing their staff. The chances lie in the new

companies that will probably form, and in the new works that will

probably be opened, but this is a matter of waiting, not always

convenient. There is small doubt, I think, that by waiting and

worrying, some of these chances might be laid hold of, and that

properly used they might be turned to good account, for there must

certainly be lots to be done eventually, unless nine-tenths of the

country are going to stand still and remain undeveloped; but this is

not exactly what I expected. I thought that if a man represented

himself as an engineer, and said that he would go and work as a

navvy, fitter, or blacksmith, until the company found it would be

better worth their while to employ him higher up the ladder, he was

pretty certain of getting his request granted; but they say here

that is not so, they are not particularly in want of gentlemen of

any of the above persuasions anywhere about their line, and it won't

pay them to keep two men where they need keep but one. Thus, the

main point of difference between the two countries seems to me to be

that, here work is more or less on the increase, though to nothing

like the extent represented at home, and in England it is on the

decline. Even that is not quite right, for work here at present is

certainly getting slacker every day. There has been a great "boom"

on Canada lately as a field for labour, thousands and thousands of

people have come, and been sent out by Colonization Societies, etc.,

and the consequence is, there are more people already than there is

work for, even in the agricultural line. Winnepeg, the much talked

of Capital of the West, is simply dilapidating, and as far west as

Regina living is high and wages low. I was told in friendliness, by

a chap called Deacon (I was introduced to him by his father-in-law),

who has an enormous tract of land by league with the Government, and

to whose interest it will be to colonize it as soon as possible,

that living in the latter place cost about $10 a week, just double

what we are paying here; and that he could get plenty of men glad to

do any work for him at $15 a month and their keep. All the towns

down the line are the same, every place (so I am told) is, so to

speak, staggered by the great and sudden influx of emigrants. Of

course, by those who have money enough to start a farm and have

sufficient experience to start it upon, there is always a

comfortable living to be made, so long as there is a good export

market for grain; but there is as much difficulty with the

experience question as with the financial, for the ordinary run of

emigrants, owing to the difficulty of getting on to a farm. These

difficulties, I believe, will continue until there is a cry in the

opposite direction, and Canada is voted a hoax. When people cease to

flock out here, because they are told they can earn $40 a month,

with their board, and when those who have already arrived get shaken

down into their places which will be opened for them by the natural

increase in the number of farms every year, the country will soon

revive, and with it the demand. When the people in England and

elsewhere having got Canada off the brain, it will not be overflowed

with people who come out to make fortunes, and at the end of six

months only wish they could make tracks.

I have not written all this by way of complaint, or because I think

our own prospects look black, for they don't; thanks to some

powerful friends and good introductions. I think we are both pretty

sure of profitable work for the winter, which, of course, means also

after the winter; but, because my first impressions of the country

are different from what I expected them to be, and I wished for the

sake of afterwards comparing them with later experiences to put them

on record, and I put them in the form of a letter to you, because,

being a thinker on such Subjects, you may like to grin and note how

my surprises are what you would have expected. I don't know what the

people at home thought of my first letter; it must have dispelled

some illusions concerning the voyage out, which they seemed to have

thought we should like immensely, but we didn't, except at the

beginning and the end. The first letter we had from the Governor

said, "I suppose by this time you are just about losing sight of the

Irish coast, and beginning to meet the long swell of the Atlantic,

and wishing your voyage was to last forty days instead of ten." Such

a wish was far from my thoughts, and the dickens a bit of the Irish

coast we ever lost sight of, for we never saw it, passing it in the

dark and in thick weather, and, at the time we ought to have been

losing sight of it, we were tumbling about at the instigation of a

nor'-wester of moderate proportions; and we never felt the delights

of a long swell at all, the wind, blowing fairly hard the whole

time, shifted regularly every day from nor'-west in the morning to

west and sou'-west at night, and kept us jumping about like a pea on

a hot plate the whole time, which, with soaking decks and cold

weather, made it imperative to go below occasionally to get warmed,

dried, fed, and--sea-sick sometimes, when the weather and the st--ks

were worst. It was a good week before it occurred to me that I might

be able to get a light for my pipe under the lee of the hurricane

deck, especially if I borrowed a fusee for the purpose. However, I

was sorry when the run was over after all, and I had to commence

knocking about from pillar to post on shore. I am sure I must have

walked from twelve to fifteen miles to-day in job hunting alone,

having made six business applications at long distances apart. It

has been upon one occasion exactly the same as with the Indian

business. If you remember, they said, "had he been a civil engineer

we could have sent him out at once;" and I called on a chap here, a

C.E., called Bantry, who asked me if I knew anything about

surveying; I said I did, rejoicing inwardly at the vagueness of the

question, but he soon stopped generalizing, and asked had I ever

done any practical surveying--in fact, could I take charge of a

survey-staff, to go out west or elsewhere. I said I felt certain I

could do so, but to his direct question was obliged to admit that I

had never had any experience. He seemed sorry; he wanted someone to

take charge of a survey, but he said he could hardly employ me for

that purpose, seeing I had had no practice. I think, had I possessed

a theodolite, and all the other paraphanalia, I could have got him

to take me on trial, but of course it was no use spending a lot of

money on instruments that I might never want, just for the chance.

This is the only time I have come near getting a job yet. It was

riling to miss it, but I don't see how it could have been otherwise.

What would you have done? I am rather at a loss to know what to do

now. I seem to have pretty well dried up Montreal, and don't see

much use sticking here for another week, and yet the man whom I have

got to see at 9 a.m. to-morrow, may recommend me to half-a-dozen

different places, and those again may give rise to another

half-a-dozen. What's the use of writing it all down any way? I am

sitting on a very low chair at a very high table, consequently my

left arm feels as though it was restraining an apparent tendency on

the part of the table to set at nought the established laws of

gravity. How is the old Tadpole, the wily banker, the impecunious

toiler among heaps of gold? Tell him to prig a few thousand pound

notes, and wrap himself up in them all but his head, that will do

for the port light, and labelled "wrong side up, with care," and get

himself sent across here, then I shall have nothing to do but to

chaw baccy, and wait till he comes out of jail. Have you seen my

particular friend the "Dook" lately? How's he a-getting on? And

what's he doing? And what does he want to do? which is just the

difference between great expectations and little realities.

By-the-bye, did you ever hear of a single ladder bucket dredger for

a depth of thirty-five feet to dredge 1,200 tons an hour? The

buckets are 1 cwt. 7st. capacity, and travel up at the rate of 125

feet per minute; the engines are vertical, and the connecting rods

go slick on to the pinions, on which is the friction arrangement,

instead of on the spur wheel. I got an introduction to some people

in the Harbour Commisioners, and the above details are all I got out

of them.

Now, good-bye old chap, and good-bye to the port-light too. Don't

bother to answer this, unless you have got something to say: you are

sure to be busy, and I generally have my evenings pretty much to

myself.

Your loving brother,

J. SETON COCKBURN.

P.S.--I meant to post this in time for the English Mail on Saturday,

but found, on coming here, that the post is Thursday. We are now at

Eton Corner, where Henry has at last come to an anchor. Of course, I

had come down with him to see the chap, and make the financial

arrangements. I can't tell you anything about them yet, as we found

the chap in question had been suddenly called away, and would not be

back till to-night. Hardy is his name. (I've found some ink). We

went out to the farm this morning. It is said to be a very good one,

and the fellow is worth a good deal of money. I expect I'll have

time to tell you what arrangements I have made before I mail this.

Henry was delighted with the place, and was not at all disconcerted

by what they told him he would have to do. I think he will get on

well. There is no doubt that he understands clearly what is expected

of him, and that he means to do it.

[Extra Supplement.]

Sherbrooke, Monday.--Many thanks for your letter, which I have just

received; I also got one from Frank, and one from mother this

morning when I arrived here. I have just settled Henry's business,

and left him to his own resources at the farm. His address is, c/o

W. Hardy, Eton Corner, P.Q. Your letter and those from home were

almost the first reminders I had about my birthday. I just

remembered, about an hour before I got them that it was past and

over. You see I, in a manner, anticipated your wishes about letting

you know what I think of the country, though, on reading it over, I

don't really know whether I have talked a lot of rubbish or not. I

have given you a lot of semi-political cant, when what you want to

know is simply, how easy is it to make coin out here. Well, I think

the answer to that is pretty easy. If a man is not ambitious, and

would be content to be a common or garden farmer for the greater

part of his life, and have, say a $1000 a year to settle down on

when he gets old, why let him ask some to give him some land and

begin. Everyone says it's the jolliest life going, but then

"everyone" is a farmer, so their opinion is no more than consistent.

That is just about the state of the case at present. If a man is

ordinarily careful in the choice of his land and the situation

thereof, he has the best possible chance of making a comfortable

living, and if he has got an agricultural soul his life will

probably be a happy one. Concerning the preparatory training

necessary before buying a farm, I should say there was some bosh

written on the subject. Mind, I am only talking, I'm not giving

deeply-studied opinions, or anything of that sort. I know too

precious little about it. I've seen it stated constantly in books

and newspapers, that "_anybody_" can easily get ten dollars a month,

and their keep to begin upon. I say emphatically anybody can't.

Henry is to get nothing at all to start with, bar of course his

board and lodgings, etc. I don't say that I couldn't have done

better for him, but I don't think I could, not without spending a

lot of money in travelling about, and I made up my mind long ago to

take the first thing that offered both for him and for myself. I

have sent a short description of the people with whom he will have

to live, etc., to mother, and he will, no doubt, send a full account

of his commencement and first impressions. Just to give you an idea

of the eagerness with which he commenced his work, I may tell you

that he would not come down to the station this morning to see me

off, because "there was too much to be done." He had offered to

churn the butter for Mrs. Hardy, and the boss had to go to a

committee meeting of the annual fair, etc., etc. Well, it's a good

sign. I gave him all the tips I could think of, and all the advice,

and I believe he has begun his work with the firm resolve of making

himself valuable to old Hardy. Now I'm going to shut up, as I've got

to write to mother. Tell the old Coke I will write him a jaw

sometime. Much obliged to him for his letter.

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