=Woollen and Cotton Mixtures.=--This term is used to designate

fabrics which are composed of the fibres of wool and cotton which

have been blended or scribbled together rather than to fabrics

composed of distinct threads which are all-cotton and all-wool yarns

woven together. A cotton warp and wool weft fabric is a union, not

a mixture. Mixtures may be recognised, when dyed, by a careful

examination of the fibres constituting the yarn. When such fibres

are not of the same colour, it will be found to have been due to

the difference of affinity for the dye between cotton and wool. The

burning test is not close enough. Carbonising is the surest test that

can be applied to determine the presence and percentage of cotton in

any Woollen and Cotton Mixture fabric.

=Woollen Fabric.=--The typical woollen is a full-handling fabric in

which structure and colouring cannot always be defined on account of

the threads and picks, and even the fibres, having become thoroughly

intermingled in passing through the operations of finishing. Strictly

speaking, a woollen fabric should be made of fine wool (possibly

noils included); but in the English Law Courts a definition of

"woollen" fabrics as being composed of mungo, shoddy, cotton, etc.,

has been accepted.

=Woollen Lastings, Craped.=--A fabric similar in the main to a Plain

Lasting, but which, owing either to special process of weaving,

chemical process during finishing, or to the action of suitably

engraved rollers through which the material is made to pass, has a

face finish resembling Crape Cloth, Plain, under which heading will

be found the distinctive characteristics of Crape Cloth.

=Woollen Lastings, Figured.=--Like Cotton Lastings, this fabric is

essentially a plain twill or kindred weave fabric, firmly woven

from hard-twisted yarns. It is woven from strong wool and can be

described as a fine, durable fabric of a somewhat hard handle, but

smooth in appearance and ornamented by the introduction of a figure,

pattern, or design produced either by means of an extra thread or by

combination of warp and weft threads.

=Woollen Lastings, Plain.=--A plain twill or kindred weave fabric

firmly woven from hard-twisted yarns. It is woven from strong wool

and can be described as a fine, durable fabric of a somewhat hard

handle, smooth in appearance, and free from any ornamentation

produced either by weaving or printing. Used extensively in the

manufacture of boot and shoe uppers.

=Woollen Yarn= in appearance possesses a fringe-like covering which

gives it a fuzzy appearance. This is arrived at by using shorter wool

than in the manufacture of worsted yarn and by giving it a twist.

This fuzzy appearance distinguishes it from worsted yarn, which

is a straight yarn in which the component fibres lie smoothly and

parallel to each other. Woollen yarn is particularly suitable for the

manufacture of cloths in which the colourings require to be blended,

the fibres napped, as in Tweed, Cheviot, Doeskin, Broadcloth, Beaver,

Frieze, Chinchilla, Blanket, and Flannel. Woollen yarn may be said

to be a thread in which all the component fibres are entangled into

each other and are in all different directions: this results in a

yarn which is rough in appearance, non-lustrous, and more irregular

than worsted yarn. It is only in this type of yarn that low-grade

materials, such as mungo, shoddy, or extract, can be utilised. The

fibres which constitute a woollen yarn are not as readily separated

from the body of the yarn or cloth as in the case of worsted.

In the case of woollen yarn there are numerous systems for denoting

the count, varying with the locality in which it is spun and the

character of the product. In the United States there are two systems

employed, but the one in most general use is known as the "American

run counts." This is based on the number of "runs," each containing

1,600 yards, to the pound. Thus, a yarn running 8,000 yards to the

pound is called a "5-run" yarn, a yarn with 5,200 yards to the pound

is equal to a "3¼-run." In the vicinity of Philadelphia woollen

yarn is based on the "cut," each cut consisting of 300 yards, and

the count is the number of cuts in a pound. Thus, No. 30 cut yarn

consists of 9,000 yards to the pound. A similar system prevails in

England, where 200 yards go to the "cut," and the number of "cuts"

per pound equals the count. In certain parts of England (Yorkshire)

256 yards go to the hank. The count is also arrived at on the basis

that the number of yards per dram equals the count.

=Worsted Diagonal.=--The name explains itself and is applied to a

worsted cloth having as its chief characteristic a prominent weave

effect running diagonally--from left to right--across the face of the

cloth. Generally in solid colours and finished so as to bring the

weave into prominence.

=Worsted Lastings.=--A smooth, warp-faced, sateen-weave fabric woven

from worsted warp and weft, having a plain-weave effect on the back

of the fabric. Generally piece-dyed black. Worsted Lastings average

30 to 31 inches in width and 29 to 30 yards in length per piece. Met

with in three grades of quality. Average Bradford price for the best

grade was, for the 10 years ended 1914, about 31_s._ 5_d._ per piece.

=Worsted Yarn= is a straight yarn, _i.e._, a yarn produced from

straight fibres; it is invaluable in the production of textile

fabrics in which lustre and uniformity of surface are the chief

characteristics. They enter into the manufacture of Zephyr,

Saxony, Serge, Bunting, Rep, etc. Yarn is measured by a system of

"counts"--the number of yards of yarn to the pound. It is put up

in hanks of 560 yards each, and the number of such hanks that are

necessary to weigh 1 pound determines the count, so that if No.

30 yarn is mentioned, it is a yarn 30 hanks of which, or 16,800

yards, weigh 1 pound. The main characteristic of worsted yarn is

the arrangement of the fibres, which are so arranged that they are

parallel to each other in a longitudinal direction.

The yarn thus produced is a smooth, lustrous, and level yarn, these

qualities being absent in woollen yarn. The fibres which constitute a

worsted yarn are more readily separated from the body of the yarn or

cloth than in the case of a woollen yarn.

=W-Pile.=--This term is used to designate a fast pile and originates

in the form taken by a piece of fast pile when removed from the

fabric. In a fast-pile fabric the pile cannot be driven out through

the back of the fabric by pressure applied to the pile, owing to the

fact that the pile is virtually bound into the material and held in

place by two threads from the top and one from behind. _See_ Pile

Weave.

=Wright's Underwear, Imitation.=--This class of underwear is

essentially a knit cotton underwear made from a combination of

bleached cotton yarn and dyed yarn. The knit fabric is raised on

the inside. The dyed yarn used in the manufacture of this class of

underwear is often of a blue or brown colour.

=Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached.=--In its unqualified form the term

Cotton Yarn is used to describe "single" yarns, and Cotton Yarn, Grey

or Bleached, is understood to be cotton thread and carded yarn, warps

or warp yarns, in singles, whether in bundles, skeins, or cops, not

advanced beyond the condition of singles by grouping or twisting two

or more single yarns together and not advanced beyond the condition

of bleached by dyeing, colouring, printing, gassing, or mercerising.

Cotton yarn is subdivided into three groups,--coarse, medium, and

fine--according to count:--

No. 20's count and under = coarse.

Nos. 21's to 40's = medium.

No. 41's and over = fine.

Cotton yarn is sometimes found as a Mercerised Grey Yarn. The fact

that cotton yarn is in the unbleached state does not necessarily mean

that it has not been advanced beyond that stage; it may be in the

grey and at the same time be mercerised. _See_ "Cabled Yarns" and

"Folded Yarn."

=Yarn-dyed.=--Yarn-dyed goods are made of yarns that are dyed before

being woven or yarns spun from wool that has previously been dyed.

Yarn-dyed may be distinguished from piece-dyed fabrics by unravelling

the threads of each kind. Yarn-dyed fabrics show that the dye-stuff

has penetrated through the yarn, while in the case of piece-dyed

fabrics the dye-stuff has not the same chance of penetrating the yarn

as completely.

=Zephyrs.=--Lightly constructed, coloured, plain-woven cloths, well

finished, in the pure state, principally woven from fine cotton

yarns. There are also silk and cotton woven Zephyrs and woollen

Zephyrs. _See_ Madras.

=Zibeline.=--The French name for Sable, used to designate a dress or

cloaking material having a hairy surface.

INDEX.

INDEX.

A.

_Page._

Actual, 1

Agaric, 1

Albatross, 1

Alhambra Quilt, 1

All Wool; _see_ Woollen, 108

All-over Leno; _see_ Dyed Lenos, 29

Alpaca, 1

Alpaca Wool, 1

Alpacianos, 2

American Run Counts; _see_ Woollen Yarn, 109

American Sheetings, 2

Angola, 2

Angola Yarn or Wool, 2

Angora, 2

Angora Goat, 2

Animalised Cotton, 2

Armure, 3

Artificial Silk, 3

Astrakhan, 3

B.

Back Cloth, 3

Backed Cloth, 4

Baffetas, 4

Baize, 4

Balbriggan, 4

Bale of Cotton, 4

Baline, 4

Balzarine Brocades, Dyed, 4

Balzarines, 5

Bandanna, 5

Barré, 5

Basket Cloth, 5

Batiste, 5

Bayadère, 6

Bayetas, 6

Beavers, 6

Beaverteen, 6

Bedford Cords, 6

Beetle Finish; _see_ Silesia, 83

Beige, 6

Bengal Stripes, 6

Bengaline, 6

Binding Cloth, 7

Bishop's Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104

Bleached, 7

Bleached Domestics, 7

Bolting Cloth; _see_ Étamine, 33

Bolton Sheeting; _see_ Grey Sheeting, 39

Bombazine, 7

Book Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105

Book-fold Muslin, 7

Botany, 7

Bouclé, 7

Bourette, 7

Broadcloth, 8

Brocade, 8

Brocades, White; _see_ White Brocades, 103

Brocatelle, 8

Broché, 8

Broken Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Brown Sheeting, 8

Brown Shirting, 8

Bugis, 8

"Bump" Yarns, 9

Bundle; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17

Bunting, 9

Burlaps, 9

Butcher's Linen, 9

Butcher's Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105

C.

Cabled Yarns, 9

Cabot, 9

Cabot; _see_ American Sheetings, 2

Calico, 9

Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103

Cambrics, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Cambrics, 26

Camel's Hair, 10

Camlets (Woollen), 10

Camlets, Dutch (Woollen), 10

Camlets, English (Woollen), 11

Caniche, 11

Canton Flannel, 11

Canvas, 11

Carbonising, 12

Carded Union Yarns; _see_ Union Yarns, 96

Carding Wools; _see_ Wool, 107

Casement Cloth, 12

Cashmere, 12

Cashmere Double, 12

Cashmere Wool, 12

Castor, 13

Cellular Cloth, 13

Ceylon or Ceylon Flannel, 13

Challis, 13

Chambray, 13

Charmeuse, 13

Checks, 13

Cheese Cloth, 13

Cheviot, 14

Chiffon, 14

China Grass; _see_ Ramie, 71

Chinchilla, 14

Chiné, 14

Chinese Customs Definition of Nankeen; _see_ Nankeen, 55

Chintz, 14

Classification of Samples; _see_ Samples, 74

Clip Spots, 14

Coated Cotton Cloths, 14

Collarette, 15

Coloured, 15

Coloured Crimp Cloth, 15

Coloured Lists, 15

Coloured Sateens; _see_ Printed Sateens, 68

Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15

Combination Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Combing Wool; _see_ Wool, 107

Continuous or Pad-dyeing Process; _see_ Dyeing, 25

Corduroy, 15

Corkscrew Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Côtelé, 16

Cotton, 16

Cotton, Animalised; _see_ Animalised Cotton, 2

Cotton Duck, 16

Cotton Flannel, 16

Cotton Plush, 17

Cotton Velvet, Plain; _see_ Plain Velvet (Cotton), 62

Cotton Yarn, Coarse, Medium, and Fine; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or

Bleached, 111

Cotton Yarn, Grey or Bleached; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached,

111

Cotton Yarn Measures, 17

Counts, 17

Counts of Spun Silk; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Coutil, 18

Covert, 18

Crabbing, 18

Crape Cloth, Plain, 18

Crape Weave; _see_ Crape Cloth, Plain, 18

Crash, 19

Cravenette, 19

Crêpe de Chine, 19

Crêpe Meteor, 19

Crepoline, 19

Crépon, 19

Cretonne, 19

Cretonne, Shadow; _see_ Shadow Cretonne, 82

Crimp Cloth, Plain, or Crimps, 20

Crinkle, or Seersucker, 20

Cross-dyed, 20

Crossover, 20

Cut; _see_ Woollen Yarn, 109

Cut Goods, 20

Cuttling, 21

D.

Damask, 21

Damassé, 21

Delaine, 21

Denim, 21

Derby Rib, 22

Descriptions of Standard Cloth; _see_ Market Descriptions of Standard

Cloth, 50

Diagonal, 22

Diaper, 22

Diced; _see_ Diaper, 22

Dimity, 22

Discharge Printing, 22

Dobbie, or Dobby, 22

Domestics, 23

Domet, 23

Dorneck; _see_ Diaper, 22

Double Cloth Weave, 23

Double Sole, Heel, and Toe, 23

Double Warps, 23

Drap d'Été, 23

Dresden, 23

Drill, Pepperell; _see_ Pepperell Drill, 60

Drills, 23

Drills, Grey; _see_ Grey Drills, 39

Drillette, 24

Drilling; _see_ White Drills, or Drilling, 104

Duchesse, 24

Duck, 24

Dungaree, 24

Duplex Prints, 24

Dyeing, 25

Dyed and Printed, 25

Dyed Alpacianos, 25

Dyed Balzarines, 26

Dyed Cambrics, 26

Dyed Corduroys (Cotton), 26

Dyed Cotton Lastings, 26

Dyed Cotton Spanish Stripes, 26

Dyed Crimp Cloth, 27

Dyed Drills, 27

Dyed Figured Cottons, 27

Dyed Figured Cotton Italians, 27

Dyed Figured Cotton Lastings, 27

Dyed Figured Cotton Reps, 28

Dyed Figured Ribs, 28

Dyed Fustians, 28

Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds, 28

Dyed in the Grey; _see_ Dyed in the Piece, 29

Dyed in the Grey; _see_ Union Cloth, 95

Dyed in the Piece, or Piece-dyed, 29

Dyed Lawns, 29

Dyed Lenos, 29

Dyed Leno Brocade, 29

Dyed Muslins, 30

Dyed Plain Cottons, 30

Dyed Plain Cottons; _see_ White Italian, 104

Dyed Plain Cotton Italians, 30

Dyed Real Turkey Reds, 30

Dyed Reps, 31

Dyed Ribs, 31

Dyed Sheetings, 31

Dyed Shirtings, 31

Dyed _T_-Cloths, 32

Dyed Velvet Cords (Cotton), 32

Dyed Velveteen Cords (Cotton), 32

E.

Elongated Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Embossed Velvet (Cotton), 32

Embossed Velveteen (Cotton), 32

Embroideries, 33

End, 33

English Foot, 33

English System of Silk Cords; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Eolienne, 33

Éponge, 33

Equestrienne Tights, 33

Étamine, 33

Extract, 33

Extracted, 33

F.

Face-finished Cashmere; _see_ Velour, 96

Façonné, 33

Faille, 33

Fancies, 34

Fancy Shirtings; _see_ White Striped Shirtings, 106

Fancy Silk Seal; _see_ Silk Seal, 84

Fancy Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Fast Pile; _see_ Pile Weave, 61

Fents, 34

Figured, 34

Figured Cretonne; _see_ Cretonne, 19

Figured Muslin, 34

Figured Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Figure Weaving, 34

Filled Cotton Cloth, 35

Filling, 35

Filling (finishing term), 35

Flannel (Woollen), 35

Flannel, Cotton; _see_ Cotton Flannel, 16

Flannelette, 35

Flat Underwear, 36

Fleece-lined, 36

Flocks; _see_ Waste and Flocks, 100

Floconné, 36

Florentine Drills, 36

Folded Yarn, 36

Foulard, 37

Foundation Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105

French Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103

French Foot, 37

French System of Cotton Counts; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17

French System of Silk Counts; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Full Regular, 37

Full-fashioned, 37

Fustian, 37

G.

Galatea, 38

Gauge, 38

Gauze Weave, 38

Genoa Plush; _see_ Cotton Plush, 17

Gingham, 38

Gingham, Madras; _see_ Madras Gingham, 49

Gingham, Silk; _see_ Silk Gingham, 84

Glacé, 38

Granité, 39

Grenadine, 39

Grey, in the Grey, or Grey Cloth, 39

Grey Drills, 39

Grey Jeans, 39

Grey Sheeting, 39

Grey Shirting, 40

Grey _T_-Cloths, 40

Grosgrain, 40

H.

Habit Cloth (Woollen), 40

Habutai, 41

Hair-cord Muslin, 41

Hand Looms and Power Looms, 41

Handle, 41

Hank; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17

Hank; _see_ Counts, 17

Hard Waste; _see_ Waste and Flocks, 100

Harvard Shirting, 41

Henrietta, 42

Herring-bone, 42

Hessian, 42

Hog, or Hoggett Wool, 42

Honeycomb, 42

Huckaback, 42

I.

Imitation Oxford; _see_ Oxford Shirting, 58

Imitation Rabbit Skin, 42

Imitation Wright's Underwear; _see_ Wright's Underwear, Imitation, 111

India Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104

India Linon; _see_ White Lawn, 104

India Mull; _see_ Mull, 54

Indigo Print; _see_ Printed, 65

Ingrain, 43

Irishes, 43

Irish Cambric, 43

Italian Cloth, 43

Italian Cloth, Figured, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft, 43

Italian Cloth, Plain, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft, 44

J.

Jaconet, 44

Jaconettes; _see_ Jaconet, 44

Jacquards, 44

Jaeger, 44

Jean, 45

Jean; _see_ Galatea, 38

Jeanette, 45

Jouy, 45

K.

Kerseymere, 45

Khaiki, 45

Khaki, 45

L.

Ladies' Cloth, 45

Lamb's Wool; _see_ Wool, 107

Lappet Weave, 45

Lastings, 46

Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104

Lawns, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Lawns, 29

Leas, 46

Leather Cloth, 46

Leno, 46

Leno Brocades, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Leno Brocade, 29

Liberty, 47

Linen Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103

Linen, Tests for; _see_ Tests for Linen, 89

Linen Thread; _see_ Thread, 90

Linen Yarn, 47

Lingerie, 47

Lining, 47

Linon; _see_ White Lawn, 104

Lisle Thread, 47

List; _see_ Selvedge, 81

Loading Worsted and Woollens, 47

Longcloth, 47

Long Ells (Woollen), 48

Long Stick, 48

Loom State; _see_ Grey, 39

Louisine, 48

Lustre Dress Fabrics, 48

Lustre Orleans; _see_ Orleans, 57

M.

Maco, 49

Madapolams, 49

Madras, 49

Madras Gingham, 49

Madras Handkerchiefs, 49

Make; _see_ Reed and Pick, 71

Maline, 49

Market Descriptions of Standard Cloth, 50

Marl, 50

Marquisette, 50

Matelassé, 50

Matt Weave, 50

Medium Cloth (Woollen), 50

Mélange, 50

Mélanges (Yarns); _see_ Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15

Melton, 51

Mercerised Cotton, 51

Mercerising, 51

Merino, 51

Mesh Underwear, 52

Messaline, 52

Mexican; _see_ _T_-Cloth, 87

Milled Finish; _see_ Schreiner Finish, 80

Millerayes; _see_ Grosgrain, 40

Mixed Cloths; _see_ Union Cloth, 95

Mixed Dyeing; _see_ Cross-dyed, 20

Mixture Yarn, 52

Mixtures (Yarns); _see_ Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15

Mock Leno, 52

Mock Seam, 52

Mohair, 52

Mohair Beaver Plush, 52

Mohair Brilliantine, 52

Mohair Coney Seal, 53

Mohair Sicilian, 53

Moiré, 53

Moleskin, 53

Mottles, 53

Mousseline de Soie, 53

Mule-twist Yarn, 53

Mull, 54

Mungo and Shoddy, 54

Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105

N.

Nainsook, 54

Nankeen, 55

Nankeen; _see_ Galatea, 38

Nankeen, Chinese Customs Definition of, 56

Native Cotton Cloth; _see_ Nankeen, 55

Native Cotton Cloth; _see_ Unclassed Native Cotton Cloth (China), 94

Net Silk Yarn; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Noils, 57

Nominal; _see_ Actual, 1

O.

Ombré, 57

Opera Hose, 57

Organzine, 57

Orleans, 57

Ottoman, 57

Outsize, 57

Oxford, 58

Oxford Shirting, 58

P.

Padded Back Linings, 58

Pad-dyeing, 58

Panne, 59

Panung, 59

Panama Canvas, 59

Papoon, 59

Paramatta, 59

Pastel, 59

Pastille, 59

Peau de Cygne, 59

Peau de Soie, 59

Pekiné, or Pekin Stripes, 60

Pepperell Drill, 60

Pepperell Drill; _see_ Grey Drills, 39

Percale, 60

Percaline, 60

Persian Cord, 60

Pick, 60

Piece Goods, 60

Pile Fabrics, 60

Pile Weave, 61

Piqué, 61

"P.K.", 61

Plain, 62

Plain Velvet (Cotton), 62

Plain Velveteen (Cotton), 62

Plain (or Homespun) Weave, 62

Plated, 62

Plissé, 62

Plumetis, 63

Plumety; _see_ Plumetis, 63

Plush, 63

Plush of Silk mixed with other Fibres, 63

Plush Velveteen, 63

Pointillé, 63

Pompadour, 63

Poncho Cloth, 64

Pongee, 64

Pony Skin, 64

Poplin, 64

Print Cloth; _see_ Printers, 70

Printed, 65

Printed Balzarines, 65

Printed Calico, 65

Printed Cambrics, 65

Printed Chintzes, 66

Printed Cotton Drill, 66

Printed Cotton Italians, 66

Printed Cotton Lastings, 66

Printed Crapes, 67

Printed Crimp Cloth, 67

Printed Furnitures, 67

Printed Lawns, 67

Printed Leno, 67

Printed Muslin, 68

Printed Oxford; _see_ Oxford Shirting, 58

Printed Reps, 68

Printed Sateens, 68

Printed Satinets, 68

Printed Sheetings, 68

Printed Shirtings, 69

Printed _T_-Cloth, 69

Printed Turkey Reds, 69

Printed Twills, 69

Printed Velvet (Cotton), 69

Printed Velveteen (Cotton), 69

Printed Warp; _see_ Warp Print, 99

Printers, 70

Pure Silk Plush, 70

Pure Silk Velvet, 70

R.

Raised Back Cloths, 70

Raised Cotton Cloth, 70

Ramie, Rhea, China Grass, 71

Ratine, 71

Rattine; _see_ Ratine, 71

Rattinet; _see_ Ratine, 71

Rayé, 71

Reed and Pick, 71

Regatta Twill; _see_ Galatea, 38

Regular Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Rembrandt Rib, 72

Remnant; _see_ Fents, 34

Rep, 72

Resist or Reserve Printing, 72

Reversible Cretonnes, 72

Rhea; _see_ Ramie, 71

Rib, 73

Rib Crape Effect, 73

Richelieu Rib, 73

Right and Wrong Side of Fabrics, 73

Ring-spun Yarn, 73

Robes, 74

Russian Cloth (Woollen), 74

Russian Prints, 74

S.

Samples and their Classification, 74

Sateens, 79

Satin, 79

Satin Drill, 80

Satin Weave, 80

Satinet, or Satinette, 80

Satin faced Velvet; _see_ Panne, 59

Schreiner Finish, 80

Scribbled, 81

Seamless, 81

Seamless Bags, 81

Seersucker; _see_ Crinkle, or Seersucker, 20

Selvedge, 81

Serge (Cotton), 82

Sett; _see_ Reed and Pick, 71

Sewing Thread; _see_ Thread, 90

Shadow Cretonne, 82

Shantung, 82

Sheeting, 82

Sheetings, American; _see_ American Sheetings, 2

Sheetings, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Sheetings, 31

Sheetings, Grey; _see_ Grey Sheeting, 39

Sheetings, White; _see_ White Sheetings, 105

Shirtings, 83

Shirtings, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Shirtings, 31

Shirtings, Grey; _see_ Grey Shirting, 40

Shirtings, White; _see_ White Shirtings, 105

Short Stick, 83

Shot, 83

Shot Silks; _see_ Glacé, 38

Sicilienne, 83

Sifting Cloth; _see_ Étamine, 33

Silence Cloth, 83

Silesia, 83

Silk Beaver, 83

Silk Gingham, 84

Silk Mull, 84

Silk Plush; _see_ Pure Silk Plush, 70

Silk Pongee, 84

Silk Seal (Cotton Back), 84

Silk Velvet; _see_ Pure Silk Velvet, 70

Silk Yarns, 85

Silver Seal; _see_ Mohair Coney Seal, 53

Singles; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached, 111

Sliver, 85

Soft Waste; _see_ Waste and Flocks, 100

Spanish Stripes, Cotton, 86

Spanish Stripes, Woollen, 86

Spanish Stripes, Wool and Cotton, 86

Split Foot, 86

Sponge Cloth, 86

Spool Cotton; _see_ Thread, 90

Spun Silk, 86

Spun-silk Yarns; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Standard Cloth; _see_ Market Descriptions of Standard Cloth, 50

Staples, 87

Stock-dyed; _see_ Ticks, or Ticking, 91

Striped; _see_ Rayé, 71

Surah, 87

Swansdown, 87

Swiss Embroidery, 87

Swiss Mull; _see_ Mull, 54

Swivel Figures, 87

T.

Tabby; _see_ Watering, 100

Tabby Plush; _see_ Cotton Plush, 17

Table Felting; _see_ Silence Cloth, 83

Tapestry, 87

_T_-Cloth, 87

_T_-Cloths, Dyed; _see_ Dyed _T_-Cloths, 32

_T_-Cloths, Grey; _see_ Grey _T_-Cloths, 40

Teasels, or Teazels, 88

Terry Cloth, 88

Tests by Burning, 88

Test for Artificial Silk, 88

Tests for Linen, 89

Test for Mercerised Cotton, 89

Tests for Silk, 90

Test for Wool, 90

Textile Fibres, 90

Thickness of Woollen Cloths; _see_ Weight and Thickness of Woollen

Cloths, 102

Thickset, 90

Thread, 90

Three-quarter Hose, 91

Ticks, or Ticking, 91

Tire Cloth, 91

Tram, 92

Trunk Length, 92

Tubular Cloth, 92

Tucks; _see_ Plissé, 62

Tulle, 92

Turkey Reds, Dyed Real; _see_ Dyed Real Turkey Reds, 30

Turkish Towelling, 92

Tussore, or Tussah, 92

Tweed, 92

Twill Weave, 93

Twin Needle, 94

Twists; _see_ Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15

U.

Unclassed Native Cotton Cloth (China), 94

Union Broadcloth, 95

Union Cloth, 95

Union Flannel; _see_ Woollen and Cotton Flannel, 108

Union Yarns, 96

U-Pile; _see_ Pile Weave, 61

V.

Velour, 96

Velveret; _see_ Velveteen, 97

Velvet, 96

Velvet (Cotton), Printed; _see_ Printed Velvet (Cotton), 69

Velvet Finish, 96

Velvet of Silk mixed with other Fibres, 97

Velveteen, 97

Venetian Coverts; _see_ Covert, 18

Venetians, 97

Venetians, White; _see_ White Venetians, 106

Vesting, 97

Victoria Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104

Vigogne, 98

Vigoreux, 98

Viyella, 98

Voile, 98

W.

Wadding Pick, 98

Wale, 98

Warp, 99

Warp Pile, 99

Warp Print, 99

Warp Ribs, 99

Warp Sateen, 99

Warp Welt, 99

Warp-faced Cloth, 109

Waste and Condenser Wefts, 100

Waste and Flocks, 100

Waste and Spun Silk Yarns; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Waste Cloths, 100

Waste Sheeting; _see_ Grey Sheeting, 39

Watered; _see_ Watering, 100

Watering, 100

Weaving, 101

Web, 101

Weft, 101

Weft Pile, 101

Weft Ribs, 101

Weft Sateen, 102

Weft-faced Cloth, 102

Weight and Thickness of Woollen Cloths, 102

Weighting, 102

Welt, 103

Wether Wool; _see_ Wool, 107

Whip Thread, 103

Whipcord, 103

White, 103

White Brocades, 103

White Cambric, 103

White Drills, or Drilling, 104

White Goods, 104

White Irishes, 104

White Italian, 104

White Jean, 104

White Lawn, 104

White Mercerised Sateen; _see_ White Italian, 104

White Muslin, 105

White Sheetings, 105

White Shirtings, 105

White Spotted Shirtings, 106

White Striped Shirtings, 106

White _T_-Cloth, 106

White Venetians, 106

Widow's Lawn, 106

Width, 106

Window Holland, 107

Wolsey, 107

Wool, 107

Wool, Alpaca; _see_ Alpaca Wool, 1

Wool-dyed, 108

Woollen, 108

Woollen and Cotton Flannel, 108

Woollen and Cotton Mixtures, 108

Woollen Fabric, 108

Woollen Flannel; _see_ Flannel (Woollen), 35

Woollen Lastings, Craped, 108

Woollen Lastings, Figured, 109

Woollen Lastings, Plain, 109

Woollen Yarn, 109

Worsted Diagonal, 110

Worsted Lastings, 110

Worsted Yarn, 110

W-Pile, 110

Wright's Underwear, Imitation, 111

Y.

Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached, 111

Piece Goods Manual Fabrics described; textile, knit goods, weaving terms, etc., explained; with notes on the classification of samples. · 第 11 / 12 段