TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE
Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
Bold text is denoted by =equal signs=.
Large-size letters used to describe shapes or trade marks are denoted
by @at-signs@.
Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within
the text and consultation of external sources.
More detail can be found at the end of the book.
PIECE GOODS MANUAL.
PIECE GOODS
MANUAL.
FABRICS DESCRIBED; TEXTILE, KNIT GOODS,
WEAVING TERMS, ETC., EXPLAINED; WITH
NOTES ON THE CLASSIFICATION OF SAMPLES.
_Compiled and Illustrated, as an Aid to Members of the
Chinese Maritime Customs Service_,
BY
A. E. BLANCO,
_Second Assistant, A, Chinese Maritime Customs_.
SHANGHAI:
STATISTICAL DEPARTMENT
OF THE
INSPECTORATE GENERAL OF CUSTOMS.
1917.
PREFACE.
The following pages represent an attempt to compile, primarily for
the benefit of members of the Chinese Maritime Customs Service,
descriptions of cotton, woollen, and other fabrics, their weaves and
finishes, etc., together with other information concerning terms
currently used in the piece goods trade which are likely to be met
with in invoices, applications, or contracts.
This manual does not embrace all textiles known to the trade, but it
does cover all those enumerated in the "Revised Import Tariff for
the Trade of China," as well as many others. As far as possible the
commonly accepted trade name has been used. It should, however, be
borne in mind that many fabrics are known in the trade by a variety
of names, so that one branch of the trade may not recognise a name
applied to the same fabric by another branch.
The descriptions have been built up from information obtained first
hand from practical weavers, manufacturers, wholesale and retail
merchants, buyers, etc., as well as from personal visits to mills in
the Manchester and Huddersfield districts, and from standard works
on weaving. To Mr. G. W. Shaw, of Botham Hall, Huddersfield, I am
indebted for introductions to the principal manufacturers in that
district, enabling me to go through such mills as those of Mr. A.
Whitwam and Messrs. Godfrey Sykes, where every phase of manufacture
from raw material to finished goods was shown and explained with
characteristic Yorkshire thoroughness. I am indebted for either
information or actual samples, or both, to:--
Mr. A. F. H. Baldwin, American Commercial Attaché, London.
John Bright & Bros., Limited, Rochdale.
Mr. A. J. Brook, Huddersfield.
Mr. C. W. Bunn, Deputy Appraiser, New York.
Mr. F. Chitham, Director, Selfridge & Co., Limited, London.
Mr. W. E. Dale-Shaw, Huddersfield.
Drey, Simpson, & Co., Limited, Stockport.
"Dry Goods Economist," New York.
W. & C. Dunlop, Bradford.
Fisher & Co., Huddersfield.
Mr. W. R. Gandell, Board of Trade, London.
Horrockses, Crewdson, & Co., Limited, Preston.
W. G. Humphreys & Co., London.
Mr. A. F. Kendrick, Board of Education, London.
The London Chamber of Commerce.
McCaw Allan & Co., Lurgan.
Selfridge & Co., Limited, London.
Mr. A. Sutton, Piece Goods Expert, Board of Trade, London.
Tanner Bros., Greenfield.
Mr. F. Walker, Huddersfield.
William Watson & Co., London.
Alfred Young & Co., Limited, London.
The Board of Trade (through their Piece Goods Expert, Mr. A. Sutton),
John Bright & Bros., Limited, and Selfridge & Co., Limited, realising
the value of classified information concerning descriptions of piece
goods, have very kindly supplied me with ranges of samples.
The following works have been consulted, and their contents have
materially assisted me. I take the opportunity of acknowledging my
indebtedness to their authors, as well as to those of any other works
consulted but which may have been omitted from this list:--
"Analysis of Woven Fabrics," by A. F. Barker and E. Midgley.
Bennett's "Glossary of Fabrics."
"Cotton," by R. J. Peake.
"Cotton Goods in China," by Ralph M. Odell, U.S. Commercial Agent.
"How to Buy and Judge Materials," by H. B. Heylin.
House of Representatives Document No. 643 (Report of Tariff Board
on Schedule 1 of the Tariff Law).
"Silk," by L. Hooper.
"Textiles," by William H. Dooley.
"Textiles," by Paul H. Nystrom, Ph.D.
"The Cotton Weaver's Handbook," by H. B. Heylin.
The Cotton Year Book.
"The Draper's Dictionary," by S. William Beck.
The Wool Year Book.
"Wool," by J. A. Hunter.
I wish specially to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mr. A. Sutton,
Piece Goods Expert to the Board of Trade, London, for having perused
the manuscript of the "Piece Goods Manual" and for the painstaking
manner in which he pointed out where modifications were advisable.
His suggestions have enabled me to revise definitions so as to make
them agree with accepted trade interpretations.
A. E. BLANCO.
LONDON, 1915-16.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Plain Weave Figure 1.
Three-end Twill Weave " 2.
Four-end Twill Weave " 3.
Four-end Weft Twill Weave " 4.
Two-and-two Twill Weave " 5.
Irregular Twill Weave " 6.
Five-end Warp Sateen Weave " 7.
Five-end Weft Sateen Weave " 8.
Simple Plain Gauze Weave " 9.
Weft-pile Weave " 10.
[Illustration: FIGURE 1.
PLAIN WEAVE.
A. Weft threads.
B. Warp threads.
Figure 1 shows the simplest manner of interlacing warp and weft
threads. This style of weave is called plain, calico, or "one-over
and one-under" weave.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 2.
THREE-END TWILL WEAVE.
This figure illustrates the interlacing of warp (shaded) and weft
(white) threads, so as to produce a regular "three-end twill" weave.
It also shows the direction of twill. In this figure the warp
threads are shown interlaced with the weft threads in three distinct
positions. There is a distinct predominance of warp threads thrown to
the surface by this style of interlacing, and a fabric woven on this
system would be "warp-faced." This weave is called a two-warp and
one-weft regular twill, also Regatta and Galatea weave.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 3.
FOUR-END TWILL WEAVE.
This figure illustrates a four-end, three-warp and one-weft, regular
twill, also known as a Florentine twill, or a "three-up and one-down
twill." The twill produced by this style of interlacing is well
marked. The warp (shaded) predominates, and for this reason a cloth
woven on this system of interlacing would be termed "warp-faced," or
warp twill.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 4.
FOUR-END WEFT TWILL WEAVE.
This figure, in which the weft threads predominate on the surface,
illustrates a four-end, one-warp and three-weft, regular weft twill,
in which three-quarters of the weft threads are thrown to the surface
and the remaining quarter is warp. It is the reverse of Figure 3.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 5.
TWO-AND-TWO TWILL WEAVE.
This figure illustrates a four-end, two-warp and two-weft, regular
twill. Neither warp nor weft predominates on the surface. This style
of twill is known as Harvard twill.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 6.
IRREGULAR TWILL WEAVE.
This figure illustrates a broken or irregular twill, also known as a
broken Harvard or Stockinette weave.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 7.
FIVE-END WARP SATEEN WEAVE.
This figure illustrates the method of interlacing warp (shaded)
and weft threads so as to produce a five-end warp sateen, or satin
twill. This weave, in which the warp predominates on the surface, is
reversed in Figure 8.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 8.
FIVE-END WEFT SATEEN WEAVE.
This figure illustrates a five-end weft sateen. Sateen weaves are
virtually a form of broken or rearranged twill. The weft sateen
weave, represented by this figure, shows weft predominating on the
face: it is practically the reverse of the weave shown by Figure 7.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 9.
SIMPLE PLAIN GAUZE WEAVE.
In this figure A are threads known as crossing threads and are
typical of gauze weave; they are binding threads holding B (weft
threads) and C (warp threads) firmly together. It will be noticed
that B and C do not interlace to form a plain weave. If crossing
threads A were removed, no fabric would remain. These crossing
threads in this figure are shown as always passing over the weft
threads B and always under the warp threads C. This style of weave,
when combined with a few "plain-weave" picks, produces Leno.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 10.
WEFT-PILE WEAVE.
In this figure A is a weft-pile pick or flushing thread; B is a
backing or ground cloth pick; the dots show cross section of warp
threads. It will be seen that the ground picks B, together with the
warp threads (shown cut through), form the foundation fabric. Pile
thread A is shown bound into the fabric by the second, eighth, and
fourteenth warp thread. Pile threads are cut after leaving the loom
at a point indicated by the arrows; the pile produced is then sheared
level and suitably finished.]
PIECE GOODS MANUAL.
=Actual.=--The terms "actual" and "nominal" are used in the trade to
indicate (1) that the width should be taken as stated or (2) that a
certain amount of allowance should be made. "Actual" implies that the
width is not less than stated. "Nominal" means that the width of the
cloth may vary as much as half an inch below width given on contract.
=Agaric.=--A cotton fabric of loop yarn construction, having a
surface somewhat similar to a fine Turkish Towelling.
=Albatross.=--A dress fabric of worsted warp and worsted filling of
open texture and fancy weaves. When the name is applied to a cotton
fabric it is used to designate a plain-woven all-cotton fabric, soft,
fine, and free from ornamentations, made in imitation of the worsted
fabric of the same name. It has a fleecy surface, is generally sold
in white, black, or solid colours, being used instead of Bunting for
flags. Not often used for printing, for which purpose it is not well
adapted.
=Alhambra Quilt.=--An all-cotton counterpane woven with a coarse
waste weft known as Candlewick. A loosely woven coloured warp yarn
is used for the figuring and a grey "sticking" warp for securing the
weft in position.
=Alpaca.=--This name is given to a fabric woven with a cotton warp
and an alpaca wool weft. The fabric is classed as a lustre fabric,
this being due to the predominance of the lustrous weft. Generally
plain woven with a simple one-over and one-under weave, Alpaca is,
when solid coloured, a cross-dyed fabric, i.e., one in which the
cotton warp yarns were dyed prior to weaving and the piece of fabric
piece-dyed after leaving the loom. Similar to Lustre Orleans, Mohair
Brilliantine, and Mohair Sicilian, which are typical lustre fabrics.
=Alpaca Wool= is the fleece of the Peruvian sheep, which is a species
of llama. The staple is of good length and soft, but is not quite as
lustrous as mohair. The natural colours are white, black, brown, and
fawn.
=Alpacianos.=--Nothing seems to be recorded in any modern book
dealing with textiles or in any technical dictionary concerning any
fabric known by the name of Alpacianos. The name, however, appears in
the Revised Import Tariff for the trade of China, from which it would
appear to be an all-cotton fabric, piece-dyed after leaving the loom,
probably averaging between 28 and 31 inches in width and about 25
yards in length. The name is probably of South American origin.
=American Sheetings.=--A rather coarse make of plain-woven grey
cloth, woven from coarse yarns (about 20's counts), 48 threads of
warp and the same number of weft picks to the inch, and generally
woven with "twist way" weft. Another name for this material is Cabot.
Average width, 36 inches; length, 40 yards per piece. Weight varies.
The use of the name Sheeting, as applied to this class of material,
is now firmly established but incorrect, Sheetings originally being a
two-and-two twill fabric having a width of as much as 120 inches.
=Angola.=--This name is used to designate a plain or twill weave
fabric having a cotton warp and a weft made from cotton and wool
scribbled together prior to being spun. The proportion of wool to
cotton varies. This scribbled wool and cotton yarn, or Angola Wool as
it is called, generally contains about 20 per cent. of cotton and 80
per cent. of wool.
=Angola Yarn or Wool.=--A yarn spun from a mixture of 80 per cent.
wool and 20 per cent. cotton.
=Angora.=--Angora is the name of a species of goat which yields a
wool commercially known as Mohair. This kind of wool enters largely
into the classes of goods known as Astrakhan, Crépon, Plushes,
Brilliantine, Zibelines, fine Cashmeres, and other fabrics usually
sold as all wool. It enters into the manufacture of very high-grade
fabrics in combination with silk. More lustrous than wool, it has
not, however, the warmth-retaining properties of the latter.
=Angora Goat.=--A species of goat originally bred in Asia Minor,
producing Mohair fibre. From the long silky hair of this goat was
made Turkish Yarn or Camel Yarn. The name Camel Yarn has led to
mistakes; it has no reference to the camel, but is derived from the
Arabic word _chamal_, fine.
=Animalised Cotton.=--To increase the affinity of cotton for
dye-stuffs and at the same time increase its lustre, cotton is
sometimes treated with solutions of wool, silk, or gelatine in such
a manner that when the solvent has evaporated the coated surface
remains sufficiently pliable not to crack under normal conditions.
=Armure.=--A weave which produces a fine pebbled surface.
=Artificial Silk.=--In the making of artificial silk, cellulose
prepared from wood or cotton is turned into a nitro-cellulose by
treatment with nitric acid. This nitro-cellulose is made liquid
by dissolving it in ether and alcohol, then forced under pressure
through very fine tubes, or forced through holes of about 1/250th
of an inch pierced in a platinum plate, in the form of very fine
threads, from which the ether and alcohol evaporate readily, leaving
the nitro-cellulose as a fine lustrous fibre. Artificial silk is
often used in the ornamentation of figured fabrics. It bears a very
deceptive resemblance to true silk, but the individual fibres are
coarser and burn very quickly, without the typical smell of true
silk and without the hard bubble of ash. Its value is about a third
of that of the best silk, but as an offset to this must be taken its
higher specific gravity. If of equal thickness, the length of thread,
weight for weight, is only from half to two-thirds that of real silk.
=Astrakhan.=--A fabric having a curly, wavy surface resembling
Astrakhan fleece. There are three varieties of this kind of fabric,
each produced on a different principle: (1) on the weft principle,
in which, owing to shrinkage of the ground texture, the pile weft is
thrown up and forms a curly loop; (2) on the warp texture principle,
in which a thick curly warp yarn is brought over wires to form the
necessary loops; and (3) the cheapest form, as a knitted fabric.
Astrakhan varies as regards the size of the loop which goes to make
the curl. The lustre yarn that is used is curled before use, the curl
being fixed by heat. The ground texture is cotton. Width varies from
48 to 50 inches; weight from 19 to 36 ounces per yard of the 50-inch
wide material. The heavier grades run 35 to 40 yards per piece, the
lighter grades from 50 to 55 yards. Generally met with in solid black
or a grey produced by blending black and white fibres, also in solid
white. Astrakhans have generally an uncut pile, but are sometimes
finished with part of the loop curls cut, say, 50 per cent., which
gives the fabric the appearance of woolly fur with complete curls at
intervals.
=Back Cloth.=--An unbleached, reinforcing, all-cotton cloth, plain
woven, used in printing fabrics to support the fabric which is being
printed.
=Backed Cloth.=--To add weight to certain single texture fabrics,
extra threads running either in the direction of the warp, i.e.,
lengthways of the piece, or weftways across the piece, are stitched
on to the back of the fabric. Fabrics having such extra threads
stitched on to them are called Backed Cloths.
=Baffetas.=--Plain-woven cloth, bleached or dyed blue.
=Baize.=--A coarse, harsh, loosely woven woollen fabric of plain
weave, having a long nap on both sides like flannel. Baize is
generally dyed in bright colours and is known under the name Bayetas.
Average width 66 to 67 inches, length 30 to 45 yards per piece.
=Balbriggan.=--Named after the town of Balbriggan, Ireland. First
applied, in 1845, to full-fashioned hosiery made from unbleached
cotton. About 1860 the term was applied to knit underwear of the same
material. It was originally used only on high-class goods, but now
covers everything in light-weight flat underwear made of yarn stained
to the shade of Egyptian cotton.
=Bale of Cotton.=--The standard bale of cotton, according to the
usage of the trade in England and America and generally accepted
elsewhere, weighs 500 pounds. The following is the average weight and
density of cotton bales:--
DENSITY
WEIGHT. PER CUBIC FOOT.
---- ----
Egyptian about 700 lb. 34 lb.
American " 500 " 24 "
East Indian " 400 " 30 "
Brazilian " 250 " 20 "
=Baline.=--A coarse canvas, mostly made of better grades of jute,
flax, and hemp, used for upholstery purposes, interlinings, tailoring
purposes, etc.
=Balzarine Brocades, Dyed.=--The cotton variety of this class of
fabric would be an all-cotton fabric having a gauze weave and
net-like appearance which had been embellished by the addition of
certain figures or designs woven into the fabric either by means of
combination of the warp and weft threads or by means of an additional
thread or threads. But Lappet or Swivel figured Balzarines would not
be considered Brocades in the true sense, as such style of figuring
is not brocaded. Dyed Balzarine Brocades are piece-dyed after leaving
the loom.
=Balzarines.=--Very few books of reference make mention of this kind
of fabric. Of "uncertain origin," this name is said to have been
given to "a light-weight mixed fabric of cotton and wool for women's
dresses commonly used for summer gowns before the introduction of
barége (or barrège)." Barége was, for the name seems to have fallen
into disuse, "an open fabric resembling gauze, but more open in
texture and stouter in thread. It was made of various materials but
is best known as made of silk warp and worsted weft. It was first
employed as ornament for the head, especially for sacred ceremonies,
as baptism and marriage." It would appear, therefore, from the above
that Balzarines--of the cotton variety--would be a gauze weave or
net-like fabric woven from cotton warp and cotton weft. They may
have been either bleached, dyed, printed, or brocaded. The exact
difference between Balzarines and other gauze fabrics does not appear
in any modern works dealing with textiles. The fabric probably
approximates 30 inches in width and from 28 to 30 yards in length
per piece. Unless specially designated as such, Balzarines are free
from brocaded ornamentation; but from the fact that they are found
associated with Lenos, they may, like these, have some plain weave
combined with the main gauze structure--probably running in stripes
lengthways of the piece.
=Bandanna= is a term applied to materials that have been dyed in a
somewhat unusual manner, the cloth being tied in knots prior to being
dipped into the dye-stuff. A peculiar clouded effect is produced, as
the dye-stuff does not reach the knotted parts equally with the rest
of the surface. This term is met with most frequently in connexion
with a large handkerchief, of which great quantities were imported
into India for sale to the natives.
=Barré.=--A striped or barred design, woven or printed, running from
selvedge to selvedge.
=Basket Cloth.=--A plain-woven all-cotton fabric woven with two or
more warp threads grouped together without twisting and woven as a
unit of matt weave.
=Batiste.=--A fabric of French origin; the term has come to mean
commercially a light, sheer cloth, made of fine quality of yarns and
woven with a plain weave. A light fabric, with a Swiss finish, in
distinction from a Nainsook, and usually wider and heavier than the
latter fabric. In 32-inch widths and up a line of Batistes runs 14
to 16 square yards to the pound. There are bleached and unbleached
cotton Batistes, also linen and coloured Batistes. The cotton are
largely ecru, and the linen are most commonly in the grey. There is
a gradual variation in qualities ranging from a comparatively coarse
to a very fine Batiste. There are also wool Batistes.
=Bayadère.=--Applied to fabrics in which the stripe, whether woven or
printed, runs crosswise, that is, from selvedge to selvedge.
=Bayetas.=--The Spanish for Baize, which is a coarse, harsh, loosely
woven woollen fabric having a long nap on both sides like flannel.
Bayetas are generally dyed in bright colours and have an average
width of 66 to 67 inches and a length of 30 to 45 yards per piece.
=Beavers.=--A heavy cloth manufactured of fine wool with a finish on
face made to imitate the appearance of the beaver's fur. When the
surface is made with a long and dense nap this fabric becomes known
as Fur Beaver.
=Beaverteen.=--A heavy, twill-weave, all-cotton fabric of the fustian
or uncut pile variety, usually dyed in shades of grey or tan and
generally used for garments having to withstand rough wear.
=Bedford Cords.=--Fabrics having cords or ribs running in the
direction of the length of the cloth, produced by interweaving the
weft, in plain or twill order, with alternate groups of warp threads.
The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing
warp threads. Bedford Cords may be woven as either an all-cotton,
all-wool, or wool and cotton fabric. The ribs of Bedford Cords are
but slightly separated from each other. Cotton Bedford Cords closely
resemble a wide-welt Piqué. _See_ Welt.
=Beige.=--A dress fabric, generally twilled weave, made of yarns
spun from wool which has been dyed in the stock prior to being spun,
mostly met with in greys, browns, and mottled or mixed effects. In
America the term is used to designate a dress fabric of fine texture
woven from yarns in which two threads of different colours are
twisted together or wherein printed yarns are employed.
=Bengal Stripes.=--An all-cotton plain-woven fabric of the striped
Gingham variety. Warp yarns partially white, balance dyed indigo blue.
=Bengaline.=--A silk fabric having thick threads or cords at
intervals, from selvedge to selvedge. Frequently the cord is of wool,
covered with silk in the process of weaving, or cotton and silk are
combined together to produce this kind of material. When made of all
cotton and known as a cotton Bengaline, it is generally mercerised.
The warp yarn is often of two-ply. Bengaline has much the appearance
of Poplin.
Silk or part-silk Bengalines are often treated to an embossing
process, which method presses a figure upon the fabric very similar
in appearance to a Jacquard woven effect. A common name for Reps,
also similar to Poplin, but generally of a heavier corded appearance
with the cord running transversely across the face of the fabric.
=Binding Cloth.=--A muslin dyed and stamped or embossed, used to
cover books by bookbinders.
=Bleached.=--This term is used to designate either raw cotton, cotton
yarn, or more often cotton fabrics which have been rendered white.
The most generally used agent for bleaching is chloride of lime. The
process of bleaching varies according to whether the fibres being
bleached are in the loose, the yarn, or the woven state. Prior to
being bleached fabrics are said to be in the "grey"; after bleaching
they are said to be "white."
=Bleached Domestics.=--A term commonly used referring to the cheaper
grades of bleached cotton cloths, either plain or twilled.
=Bombazine.=--Bombazine is the name given to a twilled fabric of
which the warp is of silk and the filling is worsted.
=Book-fold Muslin.=--A trade designation meaning muslin put up in
24-yard lengths, folded in such a way as to open book-wise from the
centre, the various folds resembling the leaves of a book.
=Botany.=--A term applied to worsted yarns made from Botany wool. It
is considered the finest of all worsted yarns and is used for making
fine fabrics of close texture. The name Botany is commonly used to
designate a fine grade of Australian wool.
=Bouclé.=--Having knots, loops, or curls on the surface; usually
employed for cloakings. Imitation Astrakhan is a type of the kind of
fabric coming under the heading Bouclé.
=Bourette.=--A rough-surfaced effect produced by introducing lumpy,
knotted yarns at intervals in the weaving.
=Broadcloth.=--Broadcloth is a soft, closely woven material made with
an all-wool warp and filling having a satin finish. The beauty of
Broadcloth depends on its even, nappy, lustrous surface. The three
main points that go towards fixing its value are the quality of the
wool used, the uniformity of the nap, and the perfection of finish.
It is most often twill woven, double plain, but it is also met with
in a plain weave.
=Brocade.=--The ordinary cotton Brocade is a figured fabric of single
texture. More elaborate Brocades, used for dress and upholstery
purposes, may have several wefts, in which case the cloth is
one-sided, the warp forming the ground on the face, and the wefts
appearing only where required to produce figure. Soft-spun wefts are
often used in Brocades and similar kinds of cloths, the better to
fill and throw up the figure used in their ornamentation. It is a
term commonly applied to fabrics of different weaves or combinations
of weaves in which the design appearing on the surface of the fabric
is of a fancy figured or floral effect, usually of elaborate design;
also used as an adjective to denote "woven figured."
=Brocatelle.=--The real Brocatelle is a rich upholstery fabric, which
has a raised figure of silk warp and weft interwoven in satin order,
on a ground formed by a linen weft and a special binder warp. The
name is also applied to quilts having a coarse white weft and two
colours of warp, which latter change places for figuring purposes.
=Broché.=--The French term for Brocade. Elaborate figures woven on
the surface of the fabric.
=Brown Sheeting.=--This term is the equivalent of "plain grey cloths"
and covers all weights of cotton goods in the grey or unfinished
condition.
=Brown Shirting.=--The term is restricted usually to mean such grey
cotton cloths as have a width of 40 inches or less from selvedge to
selvedge.
=Bugis.=--This name is given to a fine make of cotton sarong having
only one side decorated with a border design. It is used by sewing
two pieces together plain edge to plain edge, thus converting it into
a sarong with both edges ornamented.
="Bump" Yarns.=--Cotton yarns of coarse numbers below 3's, used for
weft purposes in counterpanes and other coarse fabrics, are termed
"Bump" Yarns. Sometimes the term Candlewick is used for very coarse
counts. The counts in the case of "Bump" Yarns are denoted by the
number of yards weighing 1 ounce.
This kind of weft is extensively used for coarse and heavy goods,
such as bagging, Alhambra quilts, etc.
_Example._--A yarn weighing 60 yards to the ounce would be termed
60's "Bump."
=Bunting.=--A plain, loose, even-thread weave of Mohair wool or
worsted, used mostly for making flags. Bunting, which is a material
having to be dyed, is made of wool and not cotton or other vegetable
fibre for the reason that wool has a greater affinity for dye-stuffs
than cotton and retains them better. There is, however, a cotton
fabric woven from low-count yarns, generally known as either Butter
Muslin or Cheese Cloth, which is sometimes called Bunting.
=Burlaps.=--A plain-woven, coarse, and heavy fabric made from jute,
flax, or hemp, used for wrappings, upholstery, etc.
=Butcher's Linen.=--A coarse, heavy, plain-weave linen.
=Cabled Yarns.=--Cabled Yarns are produced by folding together
"two-fold" threads. Under the heading "Folded Yarn" it will be seen
that when two single threads of 60's count yarn are twisted together
they produce a two-fold 60's, written thus: 2/60. When three such
two-fold yarns are twisted together they produce a six-fold 60's
thread. Sewing cottons, known in the trade as Spool Cotton, are good
examples of Cabled Yarns.
=Cabot.=--A Levant term for a rather coarse make of plain grey cloth,
woven from coarse yarns (about 20's counts); 48 warp threads and the
same number of picks to the inch.
Lancashire-made Cabots are usually heavily sized. Considerable
quantities of this cloth are made in South Carolina mills in 36-inch
width and shipped to China under the name of American Sheetings.
=Calico.=--This name is used to designate most plain-woven cotton
fabrics which have simple designs printed on their face in either one
or more colours. Calicoes are usually in two colours, that is, one
colour for the ground and the other for the figure or design. The
ground colour is generally effected by piece-dyeing the fabric in
some solid colour. After the cloth is dyed the design is printed on
the cloth. Being cheap fabrics, Calicoes are generally given a "cheap
common dye"--by this is meant that the colours are not fast and will
run or fade when washed. The printing of Calicoes is done by the aid
of a machine whose main feature is a revolving cylinder on which the
design has been stamped or cut out. Such machines are capable of
printing several colours in one design. Calico is woven with a plain
one-over and one-under weave. As a textile term it is applied to
cheaper grades of plain cotton cloth, and the name is rightly applied
when such cloths are printed. In the Manchester district and in Great
Britain generally the term Calico is used only to designate a plain
grey or white shirting or sheeting free from any ornamentation.
=Camel's Hair.=--A loosely woven fabric of long-fibre wool. The term
in its original sense is used to describe the soft downy fibre from
the haunches and under parts of the camel.
=Camlets (Woollen).=--An all-wool plain-woven fabric free from any
ornamentation of weave produced either by combination of weave or
extra warp or weft threads. It is invariably woven with the plain
one-over and one-under weave from worsted yarns, which make the
fabric somewhat lustrous. In width averaging 30 to 31 inches and in
length 60 to 61 yards. Camlets are only divisible into two kinds,
Dutch and English. The former variety appears to be no longer made,
and one manufacturer states that practically 99 per cent. of the
Camlets imported into China are of the English variety. Not unlike
an Alpaca in feel, though somewhat less lustrous, Camlets may be
compared to a very fine wool Bunting.
=Camlets, Dutch (Woollen).=--This heading apparently covers a
type of material which has almost disappeared from the market.
Originally a rough cloth made from camel's hair, it was known as
either Camlet or Camelot. A somewhat ancient description is "a rough
fabric composed of wool and cotton, or hair and silk with a wavy or
variegated surface." A firm of manufacturers in Bradford, written
to for information under this heading, writes as follows: "This
is a very ancient heading, and Camlets now are only made in this
country, and although there are about three qualities shipped to
China, practically speaking, 99 per cent. are in the quality of the
sample shown." The sample in question shows the fabric to be a plain,
all-wool, fairly loosely plain-woven fabric dyed a bright vermilion.
Both warp and weft are of worsted yarn and hence it is a somewhat
lustrous fabric; in width it averages between 30 and 31 inches, in
length from 60 to 61 yards, and its average value during the 10 years
1904-14 was 40_s._ 5_d._ per piece. Camlet somewhat resembles a fine
Bunting and has a harsh handle; somewhat stiff, it has the feel of an
Alpaca fabric.
=Camlets, English (Woollen).=--This fabric is described under
Camlets, Dutch. A typical sample of English-made Woollen Camlets
showed the fabric to be a plain, all-wool, fairly loosely plain-woven
fabric dyed a bright vermilion. Both warp and weft are of worsted
yarn, and hence it is a somewhat lustrous fabric, averaging 30 to 31
inches in width and 60 to 61 yards in length. Average value of the
quality generally imported into China was for the 10 years 1904-14
40_s._ 5_d._ per piece. Somewhat harsh of handle, it resembles a fine
Bunting with the stiff feel of an Alpaca.
The earliest mention of English Camlets is to be found in Camden's
"Brittania," 1610, where, speaking of Coventry, it is said: "Its
wealth, arising in the last age from the woollen and camblet
manufacture, made it the only mart of this part." In the next century
those of Brussels are said to exceed all other Camlets for beauty and
quality, those of England being reputed second.
=Caniche.=--Name given to a curled wool fabric showing the effect of
the coat of the _caniche_, or French poodle.
=Canton Flannel.=--This term is used to designate an all-cotton
flannel, first made for and exported to Canton. Canton Flannel will
be found more fully described under "Cotton Flannel." It is a narrow
heavy fabric, twill woven, showing twill on one side and having a
long, soft, raised nap on the other. Woven as a four-shaft twill for
winter weights and as a three-shaft twill for the summer weight.
Width from 27 to 30 inches. Canton Flannel is taken direct from the
loom, measured, napped, and folded, and packed for shipment. The yarn
used to make this class of cloth is spun from low-grade cotton of
from three-fourths to 1 inch in length of staple, generally dyed in
bright colours.
=Canvas.=--Canvas is a coarse plain-weave fabric woven from yarn
which is hard twisted. It is often woven from folded yarn, and this
may readily be seen in what is known as embroidery canvas. Canvas
used for sails is generally a stout strong-built cloth woven with
"double warp coarse flax yarns." A term applied to heavy, plain,
unbleached, dyed or yarn-dyed fabric, of different grades or weights
properly made of ply yarns, although the term more frequently applies
to fabrics of such similar appearance made without or partially of
ply yarn. Various sorts of Canvases are known in different trades,
such as Embroidery Canvas, Duck, Dress Canvas, Mercerised Canvas,
etc. Dress fabrics, the principal part of which are of such a
construction, are still termed Canvas in the distributing trade when
they contain stripes or fancy effects of other weaves.
=Carbonising.=--All-wool cloths and even raw wool very often contain
a certain amount of vegetable matter, such as burrs, the chemical
composition of which is similar to that of cotton, and as it is
at times very desirable to extract this vegetable matter, the
cloth or fibre is for this purpose subjected to a process known
as carbonising. The material is passed through a bath containing
sulphuric acid of a suitable strength and temperature. Upon drying,
the acid concentrates upon the vegetable matter, converting it into
hydrocellulose, which, being in the form of a powder, is easily
removed, while the wool, not being acted upon by the acid to any
considerable extent, remains intact. This system would be employed
to test the percentage of cotton in any union fabric: by carefully
weighing the sample prior to treatment and again after all the
vegetable matter had been carbonised the proportion of cotton to wool
can readily be ascertained.
=Casement cloth.=--A plain-woven fabric used for casement window
curtains and usually white or cream-coloured. Casement Cloth is made
from either mohair, alpaca, or cotton. The cotton variety is made
from high-class yarns, well woven, and is mercerised before bleaching
or dyeing.
=Cashmere.=--A cloth made from the hair of the Cashmere goat. The
face of the fabric is twilled, the twills or diagonal lines being
uneven and irregular owing to the unevenness of the yarn. Cashmere
was originally made from hand-spun yarn. In the knitted goods trade
the word Cashmere, when applied to hosiery or underwear, means goods
made of fine worsted yarns spun from Saxony or other soft wools.
Cashmere has been described as being a lightly woven woollen fabric
of twilled construction and soft finish, having the twill on the
"right" side, _i.e._, on the face of the fabric. It is sometimes
woven with a cotton warp and fine Botany wool weft. An all-cotton
variety, woven in the same way as the true Cashmere, is also met
with: it is known as Cotton Cashmere.
=Cashmere Double.=--A Cashmere cloth having as a distinctive feature
a twill face and a Poplin-corded effect on the reverse.
=Cashmere Wool= is the fine, extremely soft, grey or white fur of the
Cashmere goat, which is bred in Tibet. There are two kinds of fibre
obtained: one, which is really the outer covering, consisting of long
tufts of hair, beneath which is found the other, the true Cashmere
Wool of commerce, a soft downy wool of brownish grey tint having a
fine silky fibre.
=Castor.=--A heavy cloth, manufactured of fine wool with a finish on
the face made to imitate the fur of the beaver. This cloth differs
from Beaver Cloth only in its weight, Castor cloth being lighter than
Beaver.
=Cellular Cloth.=--A plain Leno fabric having an open cellular
structure, which is specially suited for shirtings and underwear.
Cellular Cloth is also found with stripes of different weave, though
still a form of Leno weave to the rest of the fabric.
=Ceylon or Ceylon Flannel.=--A coloured striped cloth woven with a
cotton and wool mixture weft. The warp threads which form the stripes
are dyed in the yarn prior to weaving.
=Challis.=--The name is given to a light-weight plain or figured
material made either of cotton or wool or a mixture of both. An
all-wool Challis has, when plain woven, the appearance of a Muslin
Delaine. Usually printed.
=Chambray.=--Chambray is a staple fabric of many years standing,
being next in line of the cotton goods after the better grades of
Gingham. It is a light-weight single cloth fabric, always woven with
a plain weave and a white selvedge. It is woven from warp and weft
which may be either all cotton, cotton and silk, or all silk: it has
an average width of 27 or 30 inches and weighs 2 to 3½ ounces per
finished yard. When made as an all-cotton fabric it is finished in
the same way as a Gingham.
=Charmeuse.=--A light-weight satin having a high natural lustre.
=Checks.=--Fabrics having rectangular patterns formed by crossing the
threads of a striped warp with weft threads of the same order. "Mock"
Checks are produced by combining weave effects.
When Checks are woven without a highly variegated colouring they are
known as Ginghams.
=Cheese Cloth.=--A very open and lightly constructed thin cotton
fabric of light weight and low-count yarns, woven with a plain weave,
weighing from 9 to 12 yards to the pound. Cheese Cloth is often
used for Bunting, by which name it is sometimes known. The Cheese
Cloth used for wrapping round cheese and butter after they have been
pressed is a bleached cloth.
=Cheviot.=--Most stout woollen fabrics which have a rough or shaggy
face are described as Cheviots, which has become a term denoting more
a class of goods than a particular fabric. It has a slightly felted,
short, even nap on the face, and is often made of "pulled wool,"
which is the wool taken from the pelts of dead sheep.
Mungo, shoddy, and a fair percentage of cotton enter into the
composition of the yarn from which it is made. Irrespective of the
quality of the yarn used, however, Cheviots are finished either with
a "rough" or a close finish. The weave may either be plain or twill.
=Chiffon.=--A sheer silk tissue of plain weave and soft finish. The
word is often used to indicate light weight and soft finish, as
Chiffon Velvet.
=Chinchilla.=--A fabric made of fine wool, having a surface composed
of small tufts closely united. The name is Spanish for a fur-bearing
animal of the mink species, and the fabric is an imitation of the fur.
=Chiné.=--Warp-printed: a fabric wherein the design, being printed on
the warps, appears somewhat faintly and in indefinite outline. The
weft is not printed, but is generally in the white. Some varieties,
occasionally met with, have a coloured weft. This class of fabric is
also known as a Shadow Cretonne, when the designs are of the variety
generally used in Cretonne fabrics.
=Chintz.=--When this name is applied to a fabric other than a printed
Chintz it is used to designate a woven Chintz, which is a fabric on
the warp threads of which, before being woven into cloth, various
coloured designs have been printed. Many silk ribbons are Chintz
woven. Where the colours seem to have run in the pattern the name
Chene is sometimes used. Warp-printed Chintz is also known as Shadow
Cretonne, from the softness of the design due to the white weft
blurring the sharpness of the design printed on the warp.
=Clip Spots.=--Figured Muslins ornamented by small detached figures
of extra warp or weft, the floating material between the spots being
afterwards clipped or sheared off.
=Coated Cotton Cloths.=--This name is given to a cloth having one
or both surfaces coated with paint, varnish, pigments, or other
substances. Examples of coated cloths are Tracing Cloth, Bookbinder's
Cloth, Imitation Vellum, Oilcloths, and Oilskins.
=Collarette.=--A wide knitted neckband used on men's undershirts in
lieu of binding.
=Coloured.=--This term, when applied to textile fabrics, is used to
show that the fabric which is designated as "coloured" has been dyed
in the yarn and not dyed subsequently to having been woven, _i.e._,
it has been woven from coloured yarns.
=Coloured Crimp Cloth.=--Like all other fabrics that are designated
as "coloured," Coloured Crimp Cloth is dyed in the yarn and not
piece-dyed. Coloured Crimp Cloth is essentially a Crimp Cloth which
has been woven from previously dyed yarn; apart from this difference
it answers the description given under Crimp Cloth, Plain or Crimps.
=Coloured Lists.=--All serges, etc., that are dyed in the wool or
yarn, as against those dyed in the piece, have coloured lists or
edging. The word "list" is another name for selvedge.
=Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns.=--The most important coloured
woollen and worsted yarns are: (_a._) Mixtures, (_b._) Mélanges,
(_c._) Marls, and (_d._) Twists.
(_a._) _Mixtures._--A mixture yarn is one composed of fibres of two
or more colours which have been thoroughly blended. In woollens the
wool is dyed after scouring and the mixing accomplished during the
carding process.
(_b._) _Mélange._--This is a fine mixture yarn produced from a
top-printed sliver. The result is obtained by printing at regular
intervals the required colours on the top of the sliver. The mixing
of the fibres and colours is brought about during the drawing and
spinning processes. As a rule only long fibres such as Mohair are
subjected to this method of treatment. In these yarns, on many fibres
two or more colours may be clearly seen under the microscope.
(_c._) _Marls._--A term sometimes applied to three-fold twist yarns,
but more correctly applied to a yarn which is between a twist and
the mixture yarn. It is produced by combing two or more slivers of
different colour in the later drawing operations, and in consequence
the colours are not so thoroughly blended as in the case of mixture
yarns.
(_d._) _Twists._--This class of yarn is produced by simply twisting
or folding together two or more yarns of different colours.
=Corduroy.=--Corduroy, like many other low-grade cotton fabrics woven
with a pile weave, such as Cotton Velvets, Velveteens, Moleskins,
is really a Fustian. The pile surface of Corduroys does not cover
the surface of the fabric uniformly, as in the case of Velveteens,
for instance, but runs in straight lines or ribs, which may be of
different sizes and have round or flat tops. When a Corduroy has a
twill back it is known as a "Genoa" backed Corduroy; when, as in the
lighter makes, the back shows a plain weave it is known as "Tabby"
backed.
Corduroy is a cotton fabric with the ribs running lengthways of
the piece. The pile is a weft pile. Corduroys are made in many
varieties--known as Fine Reed, Eight Shafts, Thicksets, Constitution,
Cables, etc. Constitution and Cables have broad floats or races
which are some distance apart. The term Corduroy, when applied to
hosiery, is used to designate stockings which are commonly known
as two-and-two rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of
children's stockings.
=Côtelé.=--A ribbed weave in flat, rather wide effect.
=Cotton.=--Cotton is the most used of all vegetable fibres for the
manufacture of textiles. Length and fineness of individual fibres go
towards making quality; shortness and coarseness of fibre make for
low qualities.
The chief classes of cotton are known as Sea Island, Egyptian,
American, Brazilian, Peruvian, East Indian, the first mentioned being
the highest and the last the lowest quality. Qualities are designated
in each class as follows:--
1. Fair.
2. Middling Fair.
3. Good Middling.
4. Middling.
5. Low Middling.
6. Good Ordinary.
7. Ordinary.
East Indian type of cotton fibres measure on an average but half an
inch, as compared with 2 inches in Sea Island type.
=Cotton Duck.=--Duck being a fabric which is sometimes woven in
linen, to refer to it simply as Duck might be misleading; hence,
although when used by itself the term Duck is generally recognised
to mean a cotton fabric, to differentiate between the two the word
Cotton or Linen is used. This fabric is described under "Duck."
=Cotton Flannel.=--As the name implies, Cotton Flannel is a material
woven in cotton in imitation of the real all-wool flannel. It is
either a plain or a twill woven fabric which has had the weft on one
or both sides of the fabric "raised" or "napped." This is done by
passing the fabric, whilst it is tightly stretched, over a revolving
cylinder, the surface of which is covered with small steel hooks or
teasels; these, scratching as they do the surface of the fabric, tear
up very slightly the short fibres and cover the fabric with a "nap,"
which is afterwards cut down uniformly. Cotton Flannel was first
made for the Canton market. Cotton Flannels may be either "single
raised" or "double raised"; in the first only one side of the fabric
is raised, in the second both sides are raised. Whilst Cotton Flannel
clearly shows that the fabric is a cotton one, the term Flannelette
does not necessarily mean that it is a purely cotton fabric identical
with Cotton Flannel. Flannelette may contain wool, even if only
in very small percentage, but by trade usage the name is used to
designate only an all-cotton fabric.
=Cotton Plush.=--The term Plush being a generic term applied to
cut-pile fabrics having the pile deeper than ordinary Velvet,
Velveteen, etc., it follows that Cotton Plush is essentially a
cotton-pile fabric with a somewhat deeper pile than Velveteen.
Cotton Plushes may be woven with either plain or twill back,
the plain-backed variety being known as a "Genoa" Plush and the
twill-backed variety as a "Tabby" Plush.
=Cotton Yarn Measures.=--
54 inches = 1 thread (or circumference of wrap reel).
4,320 " = 80 threads = 1 lea.
30,240 " = 560 " = 7 lea = 1 hank.
1 hank = 840 yards.
1 bundle is usually 10 lb. in weight.
The French system of numbering Cotton Yarns is as follows:--
1,000 metres weighing 500 grammes = No. 1's.
1,000 " " 250 " = No. 2's.
1,000 " " 50 " = No. 10's.
1,000 " " 25 " = No. 20's.
The count is therefore arrived at by dividing the number of metres
reeled by twice the number of grammes they weigh.