THE WEST COUNTRY
_Glasgow_
I cannot think why, in a book to be called deliberately "The Spell of
Scotland," there should be a chapter on Glasgow.
I remember that in his "Picturesque Notes," to the second edition Robert
Louis Stevenson added a foot-note in rebuke to the Glaswegians who had
taken to themselves much pleasure at the reservations of Stevenson's
praise of Edinburgh--"But remember I have not yet written a book on
Glasgow." He never did. And did any one ever write "Picturesque Notes on
Glasgow"?
I remember that thirty years ago when a college professor was making the
"grand tour"--thirty years ago seems as far back as three hundred years
when James Howell was making his "grand tour"--he asked a casually met
Glaswegian what there was to be seen, and this honest Scot, pointing to
the cathedral declared, "that's the only aydifyce ye'll care to look
at."
I should like to be singular, to write of picturesque points in Glasgow.
But how can it be done? Glasgow does not aspire to picturesqueness or to
historicalness. Glasgow is content, more than content, in having her
commerce and her industry always "in spate."
Glasgow is the second city of size in the United Kingdom, and the first
city in being itself. London is too varied and divided in interests; it
never forgets that it is the capital of the world, and a royal capital.
Glasgow never forgets that it is itself, very honestly and very
democratically, a city of Scots. Not of royal Stewarts, and no castle
dominates it. But a city made out of the most inveterate Scottish
characteristics. Or I think I would better say Scotch. That is a
practical adjective, and somewhat despised of culture; therefore
applicable to Glasgow. While Scottish is romantic and somewhat
pretending.
Glasgow is the capital of the Whig country, of the democratic Scotland
of covenanting ancestry. Glasgow is precisely what one would expect to
issue out of the energy and honesty and canniness and uncompromise of
that corner of the world. Historically it belongs to Wallace, the
commoner-liberator. And if Burns is the genius of this southwestern
Scotland, as Scott is of the southeastern, it is precisely the
difference between the regions; as Edinburgh and Glasgow differ.
The towns are less than an hour apart by express train. They are all of
Scotch history and characteristics apart in quality and in genius.
Edinburgh is still royal, and sits supreme upon its hill, its past so
present one forgets it is the past. Glasgow never could have been royal;
and so it never was significant until royal Scotland ceased to be, and
democratic Scotland, where a man's a man for a' that, came to take the
place of the old, to take it completely, utterly. So long as the world
was old, was the Old World, and looked toward the East, Edinburgh would
be the chief city. When the world began to be new, and to look toward
the New World, Glasgow came swiftly into being, and the race is to the
swift.
[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY WHISTLER.]
There is history to Glasgow, when it was a green pleasant village, and
there was romance. It is but a short way, a foot-path journey if the
pleasant green fields still invited, out to Bothwell Castle; splendid
ruin, and, therefore, recalling Mary and Darnley and the Lennoxes, but
not Bothwell. But Landside, where Mary was defeated, is a Glaswegian
suburb, Kelvingrove--"let us haste"--is a prosperous residence
district. The Broomielaw, lovely word, means simply and largely the
harbour of Glasgow, made deliberately out of Clyde water in order that
Glasgow's prosperity might flow out of the very heart of the city.
"Lord, let Glasgow flourish according to the preaching of Thy word," ran
the old motto. It has been shortened of late.
The heart of the city is dreary miles of long monotonous streets, where
beauty is never wasted in grass blade or architecture. George's Square
may be noble, it has some good monuments, but it is veiled in commercial
grime, like all the town. What could be expected of a city that would
name its principal business street, "Sauchieburn," memorializing and
defying that petty tragedy?
There is an art gallery with Whistler's "Carlyle," and a few other
notable pictures (John Lavery's I looked at with joy) to redeem miles of
mediocrity. (Here I should like to be original and not condemn, but
there are the miles.)
There is a cathedral, that "aydifyce" of note, touched almost nothing by
the spirit of "reform"; for the burghers of Glasgow, then as now,
believing that their cathedral belonged to them, rose in their might and
cast out the despoilers before they had done more than smash a few
"idols." Therefore this shrine of St. Kentigern's is more pleasing than
the reformed and restored shrine of St. Giles. The crypt is particularly
impressive. And the very pillar behind which Rob Roy hid is all but
labeled. Of course it is "authentic," for Scott chose it. What unrivaled
literary sport had Scott in fitting history to geography!
There is a University, one of the first in the Kingdom; the city
universities are gaining on the classic Oxford and St. Andrews.
But chiefly there are miles of houses of working men, more humble than
they ought to be. If Glasgow is one of the best governed cities in the
world, and has the best water supply in the world--except that of St.
Paul--would that the Corporation of the City of Glasgow would scatter a
little loveliness before the eyes of these patient and devoted
workingmen.
But what a chorus their work raises. In shipyards what mighty work is
wrought, even such tragically destined work, and manufactured beauty, as
the _Lusitania_!
From Glasgow it is that the Scot has gone out to all the ends of the
earth. If the "Darien scheme" of wresting commerce from England failed
utterly, and Glasgow failed most of all, that undoing was the making of
the town. It is not possible to down the Scot. The smallest drop of
blood tells, and it never fails to be Scottish. Most romantic, most
poetic, most reckless, most canny of people. The Highlander and the
Lowlander that Mr. Morley found mixed in the character of Gladstone, and
the explanation of his character, is the explanation of any Scot, and of
Scotland.
_Ayr_
Always the West is the democratic corner of a country; or, let me say
almost always, if you have data wherewith to dispute a wholesale
assertion. Sparta was west of Athens, La Rochelle was west of Paris,
Switzerland was west of Gesler; Norway is west of Sweden, the American
West is west of the American East. And Galloway and Ayrshire are the
west Lowlands of Scotland.
The West is newer always, freer, more open, more space and more lure for
independence. The West is never feudal, until the West moves on and the
East takes its place. Here men develop, not into lords and chiefs, but
into men. Wallace may come out of the West, but it is after he has come
out that he leads men, in the establishment of a kingdom, but more in a
wider fight for freedom; while he is in the West he adventures as a man
among men, on the Waters of Irvine, in Laglyne Wood, at Cumnock. And a
Bruce, struggling with himself, and setting himself against a Comyn, may
stagger out of a Greyfriars at Dumfries, and, bewildered, exclaim, "I
doubt I have slain the Comyn!" When a follower makes "siccar," and all
the religious and human affronts mass to sober The Bruce, a king may
come out of Galloway, out of a brawl, if a church brawl, and establish
the kingdom and the royal line forever.
If a Wallace, if a Bruce, can proceed out of these Lowlands--and a Paul
Jones!--a poet must come also. And a poet who is as much the essence of
that west country as chieftain or king. Everything was ready to produce
Burns in 1759. William Burns had come from Dunnottar, a silent,
hard-working, God-fearing Covenanter, into this covenanting corner of
Scotland. It was filled with men and women who had grown accustomed to
worshiping God according to their independent consciences, and in the
shelter of these dales and hills, sometimes harried by that
covenanter-hunting fox, Claverhouse--to his defeat; finally winning the
right to unconcealed worship. Seven years gone, and William Burns having
built the "auld clay biggan" at Alloway, he married a Carrick maid,
Agnes Broun, a maid who had much of the Celt in her. And Robert Burns
was born.
It is of course only after the event that we know how fortunate were the
leading circumstances, how inevitable the advent of Robert Burns. Father
and mother, time and place, conspired to him. And all Scotland, all that
has been Scotland since, results from him. It is Scott who reconstructed
Scotland, made the historic past live. But it is Burns who is Scotland,
Scotland remains of his temper; homely, human, intense, impassioned;
with a dash and more of the practical and frugal necessary for the
making of a nation, but worse than superfluous for the making of a
Burns.
Three towns of this Scottish corner contend not for the birth but for
the honours of Burns. If Dumfries is the capital of Burnsland and the
place of his burial, Ayr is gateway to the land and the place of his
birth; while Kilmarnock, weaver's town and most unpoetic, but productive
of poets and poetesses, claims for itself the high and distinct literary
honours, having published the first edition in an attic, and having
loaned its name as title for the most imposing edition, and having in
its museum possession all the published Burns editions.
To follow his footsteps through Burnsland were impossible to the most
ardent. For Burns was a plowman who trod many fields, and turned up many
daisies, and disturbed many a wee mousie, a poet who dreamed beside many
a stream, and if he spent but a brief lifetime in all, it would take a
lifetime, and that active, to overtake him.
"I have no dearer aim than to make leisurely pilgrimages through
Caledonia; to sit on the fields of her battles, to wander on the
romantic banks of her rivers, and to muse on the stately towers or
venerable ruins, once the honoured abodes of her heroes."
He did this abundantly. We have followed him in many a place. But in
Burnsland it were all too intimate, if not impossible. He knew all the
rivers of this west country, Nith, Doon, Ayr, Afton.
"The streams he wandered near;
The maids whom he loved, the songs he sung,
All, all are dear."
He did not apparently know the sea, or love it, although he was born
almost within sound of it; and he sings of it not at all. He knew
the legends of the land. "The story of Wallace poured a Scottish
prejudice into my veins," and he deliberately followed the Bruce legend,
hoping it would enter into his blood and spirit, and something large and
worthy would result. It did, not an epic, but the strong song of a
nation, "Scots wha hae."
[Illustration: _Ayr River_]
His land was the home of Lollards and Covenanters. Independence was in
the blood. It was the land of the "fighting Kennedys," who disputed with
each other, what time they were not furnishing an Abbot of Crossraguel
to dispute with John Knox, or a Gude Maister Walter Kennedy to have a
"flytting" with the Kynge's Makar, William Dunbar. Where Burns secured
his Jacobitism I do not know, but, of course, a poet is by nature a
Jacobite; as he himself said, "the Muses were all Jacobite."
Burnsland is rich in other literary associations. Johannes Scotus is
reckoned to have been born also at Ayr; and there are John Galt, James
Boswell, James Montgomery, Alexander Smith, Ainslie, Cunningham, and the
Carlyles, and Scott in some of his most lively romances. The Book of
Taliessin is written in part of this land, the Admirable Crichton was
born here. It is a close-packed little port-manteau of land. There is
pursuit enough for at least a summer's travel. And, without doubt, there
are as many pilgrims who explore Ayrshire as Warwickshire, and much more
lovingly.
The entrance is by Ayr. And this I think can be made most claimingly,
most fitly, by steamer from Belfast. For one thing, it avoids entrance
at Glasgow. Ayr is still a sea port of some importance; and Ireland,
democratic, romantic, intimate, is a preparation for this similar
country of Galloway and about; both lands are still Celtic.
Ayr looks well from the sea as one comes in, although in the day of
Burns the Ratton-key was a more casual place, and harbour works to
retain the traffic were not yet built. But the town sits down well into
the waterside of its Doon and Ayr rivers, much like a continental town
where fresh waters are precious. There is long suburban dwelling, not as
it was a hundred and fifty years ago.
And Ayr looks out on the sea with a magnificent prospect from any of her
neighbouring segments of coast, with ruined castles set properly, with
the dark mass of romantic Arran purple across the waters, with Ailsa
Rock evident, and to a far-seeing eye the blue line of Ireland whence
we have come.
There is small reason for staying in Ayr, unless for a wee bit nappie in
Tam o' Shanter's inn, which still boasts itself the original and only
Tam and hangs a painting above the door to prove itself the starting
point, this last "ca' hoose," for Alloway.
To Alloway one may go by tram! It sounds flat and unprofitable. But the
gray mare Meg is gone, has followed her tail into the witches night. And
if it were not the tram it would be a taxi. And what have witches and
warlocks to do with electricity, in truth how can they compete with
electricity?
"Nae man can tether time or tide;
The hour approaches Tam maun ride;
That hour, o' night's black arch the keystane,
That dreary hour he mounts his beast in;
An' sic a night he taks the road in
As ne'er poor sinner was abroad in."
To follow, in a tram, in broad daylight, oh, certainly the world has
changed, and the Deil too since "the Deil had business on his hand." The
occupations that are gone! It is a highway one follows to-day, suburban
villas and well-kept fields line the way; no need to "skelpit on thro'
dub and mire." Tam would be quite without adventure. And to-day one
wonders if even the lightning can play about this commonplace way. There
is however the Race-course--some reminder of Meg!
Yet, it is possible to forget this pleasant day, and to slip back into
old night as
"Before him Doon pours a' his floods;
The doubling storm roars through the woods;
The lightnings flash frae pole to pole;
Near and more near the thunders roll;
When, glimmering through the groaning trees,
Kirk Alloway seem'd in a bleeze."
The walls of the Auld Kirk lie before us--and "Auld Nick in shape o'
beast" is sitting under "the winnock bunker i' the east." Who would deny
that he also like Tammie "glower'd amazed and curious"?
"The piper loud and louder blew,
The dancers quick, and quicker flew;
They reel'd, they set, they cross'd, they cleekit,
Till ilka carlin swat and reekit,
And coost her duddies to the wark,
And linket at it in her sark."
The ride on this tram has developed a dizziness.
"Wi' tippenny we fear nae evil;
Wi' usquebae we'll face the devil!"
Did we cry "weel done, cutty sark!" Then we, too, must descend and
hurry on foot to the old Brig o' Doon. Not pausing long for The
Monument, even to look at the wedding ring of Jean Armour, or the Bible
Burns gave to Highland Mary; but on to the Auld Kirk which stands
opposite.
To Burns we owe this church in more ways than one. When a certain book
of "Antiquities" was being planned, Burns asked that the Auld Kirk of
Alloway be included. If Burns would make it immortal? yes. So the story
of Tam o' Shanter came to make Kirk Alloway forever to be remembered.
What would William Burns, covenanter, have thought? For I cannot but
think that William looked often askance at the acts of his genius-son.
But William was safely buried within the kirk, and if the epitaph
written by the son reads true, William was excellently covenanted.
"O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains,
Draw near with pious rev'rence and attend.
Here lies the loving husband's dear remains,
The tender father, and the gen'rous friend.
The pitying heart that felt for human woe,
The dauntless heart that fear'd no human pride,
The friend of man, to vice alone a foe,
For 'ev'n his failings lean'd to virtue's side.'"
The auld clay biggan still stands in Alloway, and "the banks and braes
o' bonnie Doon" bloom as "fresh and fair" to-day as they did a century
and a half ago. It is a simpler place than the birth house on High
Street in Stratford, and a simpler environment than College Wynd in
Edinburgh. This is a true cotter's home, and Saturday nights within must
have been of the description.
Somehow it is less of a tourist's way of forced entry, this through the
barn, than the basement door at Abbotsford; and so one passes through
the byre and into the kitchen, where stands the bed in which Robert
Burns was born. It is all beautifully homely, as lowly as a manger; and,
how the world has been filled by what was once small frail life herein!
It is difficult to divide the poet's relics among so many claimant
places, but here and in the museum are many mementoes of the poet. For
this as well as Kirk Alloway is a national monument, or something like.
There was a century during which this was merely a clay biggan, and a
public house, and that offended no one, least of all the friends of the
poet. Except Keats. He came hither in 1818. The host was drunk most of
the time, and garrulous. Keats complained that it affected his
"sublimity." And, for once, Keats turned severe self-critic. "The
flat dog made me write a flat sonnet."
[Illustration: BURNS' COTTAGE, BIRTH-PLACE OF ROBERT BURNS, AYR.]
It was while living at Mount Oliphant, two miles east of Ayr, when Burns
was fifteen, that he began that long, long list of lasses whom he loved
and whom he made immortal with a verse. He might have said with James
V,--and much he resembled that Gudeman o' Ballangeich--"it came wi' ane
lass and it will gae wi' ane lass." The first was Nelly Kilpatrick,
daughter of the miller of Perclewan--
"O, ance I lov'd a bonnie lass,
Ay, and I love her still."
The last was Jessie Lewars, who ministered to him in those last days in
the Millhole brae in Dumfries--
"O wert thou in the cauld blast
On yonder lea, on yonder lea,
My plaidie to the angry airt,
I'd shelter thee, I'd shelter thee."
To Kilmarnock one goes for its name. But "the streets and neuks o'
Killie" are changed since that Burns' day. It is a sprawling, thriving
factory town, a town of weavers--and a town of poets. There is something
in the whirr of wheels, to those who are within it, which establishes
rhythm in the ear, and often leads to well-measured poetry! Surely a
weaver is equal to a plowman, and I fancy that many a workingman and
working lass with lines running through the head walk this Waterloo
street, pass Tam o' Shanter's arms, and looks above the Loan Office at
the attic where that precious first edition was printed in 1786. Poems
and pawn broking--Waterloo Street is a suggestive Grub street.
From Kilmarnock to Dumfries by train is a Burns pilgrimage, even though
it be taken without break, and in seventy-seven minutes! And
interspersed are other memories. It is entirely what Burnsland should
be, nothing set down in high tragedy, but all lyrical, with gentle
hills, whispering rivers, and meadows and woodlands all the way.
Mauchline, where the burst of song was like that of a skylark, the very
outpouring of the man's soul; here lies the field where he turned up the
daisy and found an immortal lyric.
Auchinleek, where Boswell and Dr. Johnson paused on their journey and
where to the hot-flung query of the Doctor, "Pray, what good did
Cromwell ever do the country?" the judicial and wrathful father of our
Boswell flung the hotter retort--"He gart kings ken they had a lith in
their necks." The Scottish tongue is the tongue of rebellions. Should
we stay in this corner of the world longer we might turn covenanting and
Cromwellian!
Cumnock, which William Wallace made his headquarters between the battle
of Stirling bridge and that of Falkirk.
New Cumnock, whence the Afton so sweetly falls into the Nith--
"Flow gently, sweet Afton, amang thy green braes,
Flow gently, I'll sing thee a song in thy praise."
Kirkconnel, which is said not to be the Kirkconnel where Fair Helen
lies--but like the blasted heath, will it not serve?
"I wish I were where Helen lies,
Baith night and day on me she cries."
And in any event "The Bairnies cuddle doon at Nicht" were "waukrife
rogues" in Kirkconnel.
Sanquhar to Thornhill, with rounding green hills along the Nith, with
memories of Old Queensberry and Defoe and Wordsworth and Coleridge and
Allan Ramsay and Dr. John Brown, and Carlyle. Thornhill is Dalgarnock,
where fairs were held--
"But a' the niest week, as I petted wi' care,
I gaed to the tryste o' Dalgarnock,
And wha but my fine, fickle lover was there?
I glowr'd as I'd seen a warlock, a warlock,
I glowr'd as I'd seen a warlock."
Dunscore lies to the right with "Redgauntlet" memories, and a few miles
farther on is Craigenputtock.
Ellisland a brief moment, where immortal "Tam" was written as under the
spell of a warlock.
_Dumfries_
It is a proud little city, more than a bit self-satisfied. It realizes
that its possession of the mortal remains of Burns gives it large claim
in his immortality, and the Burns monument is quite the center of the
town.
Yet Dumfries is well satisfied from other argument. Historically, it
goes back to Bruce and Comyn, and even to a Roman beyond. But there is
nothing left of old Greyfriars where the killing of Comyn took place.
Dumfries had its moment in the Forty Five, for the Bonnie Prince was
here as he went down to the invasion of England, and his room in what is
now the Commercial Hotel may be looked into but not lodged in; Dumfries,
in spite of Covenant, has its modicum of Jacobitism.
[Illustration: CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE.]
It is in "Humphrey Clinker" that Smollett compels some one to say "If
I was confined to Scotland I would choose Dumfries as my place of
residence." Confined to Scotland, forsooth!
Dumfries is larger than it was in the days of Burns, and very busy
withal, in factories and railroads. But it is still a country town,
still hints at something of dales and woods and streams, even on High
Street. The land about is true Burnsland; low, gentle hills closing in
the horizon in a golden sea of warmth and sunlight, and the Nith a
pleasant stream. It makes a great bend about Dumfries, with Maxwelltown
across the water, and still
"Maxwellton's braes are bonny
Where early fa's the dew."
Farther a-field there lies Sweetheart Abbey, built by the Lady
Devorgilla, widow of John Balliol, and founder of Balliol at Oxford; one
of the most beautiful ruins not only in Scotland but in the Kingdom.
Caerlaverock castle, the Ellangowan of "Guy Mannering," stands on the
Solway, which still, like love, ebbs and flows. Ecclefechan lies east.
"O, wat ye wha's in yon toun," Burns sang from here, but later it was
made a place of pilgrimage, with its immortal dust come back from London
for Scottish rest.
And in St. Michael's Burns was laid to rest in 1796, and twenty years
later was placed in this mausoleum in the corner of the churchyard. A
sumptuous monument for so simple a man.
"He came when poets had forgot
How rich and strange the human lot;
How warm the tints of Life; how hot
Are Love and Hate;
And what makes Truth divine, and what
Makes Manhood great.
"A dreamer of the common dreams,
A fisher in familiar streams,
He chased the transitory gleams
That all pursue;
But on his lips the eternal themes
Again were new."
The road leads southward, the Via Dolorosa Mary took after Langside, the
Via Victoriosa which Prince Charles took--
"Wi' a hundred pipers an' a', an' a',
Wi' a hundred pipers an' a', an' a',
We'll up and gie them a blaw, a blaw,
Wi' a hundred pipers an' a', an' a'.
Oh, it's ower the Border awa', awa',
It's ower the Border awa', awa',
We'll on an' we'll march tae Carlisle Ha'
Wi' its yetts and castles an' a', an' a'.
Wi' a hundred pipers an' a', an' a'."
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PORTER, JANE: Scottish Chiefs. F. (Wallace and Bruce.)
QUEEN VICTORIA'S Highland Journals.
SCOTT, SIR WALTER: The Abbot. F. (Mary Stuart.)
-- The Antiquary. F. (East Fife.)
-- Black Dwarf. F. (Lowlands and Border.)
-- The Bride of Lammermuir. F. (East Lothian.)
-- The Fair Maid of Perth. F.
-- Guy Mannering. F. (Caerlaverock castle.)
-- The Heart of Midlothian. F. (Edinburgh.)
-- Lady of the Lake. Poetry. (Katrine and Stirling.)
-- Lay of the Last Minstrel. Poetry. (Border.)
-- The Legend of Montrose. F.
-- The Lord of the Isles. Poetry. (Hebrides.)
-- The Monastery. F. (Melrose.)
-- Marmion. Poetry. (Flodden.)
-- Old Mortality. F. (Covenanters.)
-- The Pirate. F. (Orkneys.)
-- Redgauntlet. F. (1745.)
-- Roy Roy. F. (Trossachs Region and Glasgow.)
-- St. Ronan's Well. F. (Tweedale.)
-- Tales of a Grandfather.
-- Waverley. F. (Prince Charles Edward.)
SHORT, JOSEPHINE H.: The Charm of Scotland.
STEVENSON, R. L.: David Balfour. F. (After 1715.)
-- Kidnapped. F. (After 1715.)
-- The Master of Ballantrae. F.
-- Picturesque Notes of Edinburgh.
-- St. Ives. F. (After 1815.)
SHAKESPEARE: Macbeth.
SHELLEY, MARY: The Fortunes of Perkin Warbeck. F.
SMOLLETT, TOBIAS: Humphrey Clinker. F.
STEUART, J. A.: The Red Reaper. (For Montrose, Covenanter.)
SWINBURNE, ALGERNON S.: Bothwell, a tragedy.
-- Chastelard, a tragedy.
-- Mary Stuart, a tragedy.
SUTCLIFFE, HALLIWELL: Willowdene Will. F. (1745.)
-- The Lone Adventure. F.
TAYLOR, BAYARD: In Picturesque Europe.
TODD, G. EYRE: Cavalier and Covenanter. F. (Charles II.)
UPSON, ARTHUR: The Tides of Spring. (Poetic drama.)
WATKEYS, FREDERICK W.: Old Edinburgh.
WESLEY, JOHN: Journal. Vol. 3.
WARRENDER, MISS: Walks near Edinburgh.
WHYTE-MELVILLE, G. J.: The Queen's Maries. F.
WIGGIN, KATE DOUGLAS: Penelope in Scotland.
WILLIAMSON, M. G.: Edinburgh. (Ancient Cities series.)
WINTER, WILLIAM: Brown Heath and Blue Bells.
-- In Gray Days and Gold.
WORDSWORTH, DOROTHY: Tour in Scotland.
INDEX
A
Abbottsford, 38-47
Aberdeen, 202, 227, 206-212
Aeneas Sylvius, 8
Agricola, 8, 237
Alexander III, 6, 63, 64, 158-159, 173, 210
Alloway Kirk, 327
Anne of Brittany, 21
Ardchonnel, 258
Ard, Loch, 291
Ardnamurchan, 266
Arthur's Seat, 48, 143, 146
Augustus, Fort, 246
Awe, Loch, 258-262
Ayala, Dom Pedro de, 124
B
Badenoch, Wolf of, 193, 197, 224
Balmoral Castle, 205
Bannockburn, 21, 27, 164, 232, 300, 301-303
Banquo, 132, 176
Bass, the, 156-157
Beaton, Cardinal, 164-166
Bemersyde, 27, 49
Berwick, 12-17, 24, 57
Birnam, 192
Blairgowrie, 198
Bonar, Horatio, 59
Border, the, 12, 16, 21, 29, 60, 64
Borlund, Dr., 79
Borthwick, 25, 131, 196
Boswell, James, 155, 167, 234, 274
Bothwell Castle, 131, 316
Bothwell, James, 15, 64, 65, 66, 67, 114, 146, 196
Braehead, 154
Braemar, 196
Brandir, Pass of, 259-260
Brantome, Sieur de, 128
Brown, Dr. John, 79, 151
Bruce, the, 14, 28, 36, 88, 97, 132, 164, 177, 178, 255, 285, 320, 332
Buccleuch, Duke of, 37, 68
Buchan, Lords of, 51
Buchanan, George, 66, 93, 307
Burns, Robert, 20, 45, 61, 145, 320-334
(quoted), 20, 304, 325, 326, 327, 331
Byron, George Gordon, Lord, 205, 209
C
Calton Hill, 84, 98, 143-148
Cambuskenneth, abbey, 309
battle, 300
Canongate, 100, 101-110, 115, 120, 125
Carberry, 25, 131
Carlyle, Thomas, 10, 78, 150, 163
Carnegie, Andrew, 178, 237
Carterhaugh, 72
Catrail, 40
Cawdor Castle, 226-227
Charles I, 25, 45, 88, 89, 112, 168
Charles II, 21, 25, 96, 111, 113, 132, 189, 215
Charles, Prince, 25, 45, 58, 61, 68, 71, 88, 114, 115, 133, 204-205,
227, 230, 233, 234, 244, 247, 248, 334
Chastelard, 158
Chaucer, 8, 126
Cheviots, Io, 40, 47, 49
Cistercians, 36
Claverhouse (Bonnie Dundee), 45, 94, 142, 194-195
Clephane, Elizabeth, 27
Closes, the, 103
Col, 267
Coldstream, 19, 20, 21
Coleridge, 287
Columba, Saint, 34, 192, 208, 269, 271-275
Corriemulzie, 203
Cowgate, the, 95
Craigenputtock, 332
Cromwell, 88, 89, 90, 91, 97, 102, 214, 230
Cruachan, Ben, 259, 260, 261
Culdee, 36, 51, 213
Culloden, 205, 231-234, 237
Cuthbert, Saint, 7, 35
D
Dalkeith, 25, 125
Danes, 12
Darien scheme, 318
Darnick, 48
Darnley, 26, 67, 92, 114, 115, 130, 131, 160, 196, 306
David I, 24, 35, 51, 55, 63, 70, 109-110, 176
Deans, Jeanie, 10
Dee, 203, 204
Disraeli, 10
Donaldson Hospital, 135
Douglass, Gavin, 118-122, 193
Lord James, 28, 76
Douglasses, the, 16, 29, 76, 88, 91, 305
Doune, 310
Drummelzier, 29
Drummond, William, 8
Dryburgh, 39, 47-52
Dumbarton Castle, 90, 299
Dumfries, 321, 330, 332-334
Dunbar, Bob, champion curler, 180
William, 120-123, 126
Dunblane, 309
Dunfermline, 36, 55, 141, 159, 173-179
Dunnolly Castle, 255
Dunnottar Castle, 212-219, 221
Dunsinane, 192
Dunstaffnage Castle, 189, 255-257
E
Edinburgh, 14, 24, 82-148
Edward I, 18, 19, 36, 87, 89
Edward VII, 89, 111, 312
Eildon hills, 30, 33, 40, 49, 57
Elgin, 34, 224
Elizabeth, 13, 16, 129
Elliott, Jean (quoted), 23
Ettrick, 47, 105
F
Fair Maid, 188
Falkirk, 133, 300, 301
Fergusson, Robert, 106
Fife, 14, 149-170
Findon, 212
Fleming, Marjorie, 150-155, 160-162
Flodden, 17, 21, 22, 23, 27, 71, 117, 126
Ford Castle, 18, 19, 22
Forres, 224
Fotheringay, 6, 16, 67, 183
Fox, George, 8
Froissart, 8
G
Galashiels, 41, 71
Gala Water, 41
George IV, 144
George V, 104, 311
Gladstone, 79, 319
Glamis Castle, 194
Glasgow, 83, 227
Glencoe, 262-264
Glenshee, 198, 199
Golf, 167-170
Gordon, Lady Jane, 123
Grassmarket, 93, 94, 125
Great Glen, 234, 236, 242-250
Greyfriars, 95-96
H
Hadrian, 11
Halidon Hill, 16
Hamerton, Philip Gilbert, 258
Henley (quoted), 134, 171
Henry VIII, 14, 36, 57
Hermitage Castle, 15, 65, 66, 127
Hogg, James, 9, 75, 105
Holyrood Palace, 14, 54, 85, 111-133, 146
Howell, James, 9, 314
Hume, 84, 145, 223
Huntlie Bank, 42, 43
Huntly, 127, 220, 229, 310
I
Innishail, 260
Inveraragaig, 244
Inversnaid, 285
Inverugie Castle, 221, 223
Iona, 34, 35, 36, 70, 264-276
Irving, Edward, 78, 150
Washington, 30
J
James I, 113, 156-157, 188, 189-190
James II, 25, 56, 113, 304
James III, 25, 45, 57, 113, 142
James IV, 19, 21, 22, 25, 73, 87, 97, 113, 115-126, 129, 305
James V, 25, 73, 96, 97, 109, 113, 184, 281, 305
James VI, 6, 13, 25, 36, 92, 132, 167, 190, 283, 306, 307, 310
James II of England, VII of Scotland, 91, 113, 137, 168
James the Chevalier, 6, 57, 113, 201, 212, 223
Jedburgh, 15, 60-68
Johnson, Dr. Samuel, 9, 102, 138-139, 156, 164, 167, 212, 234, 274, 281
Jonson, Ben, 8
K
Katrine, Lake, 287-290, 298
Keats (quoted), 105, 328
Kelso, 34, 56-60
Ker of Fernihurst, 68
Kerrera, 257
Kilchurn Castle, 258
Killiecrankie, Pass of, 194-196
Kilmarnock, 321, 329-330
King Arthur, 85, 168
Kinghorn, 158, 173
Kirkcaldy, 150, 151, 159
General, 88
Kirk o' Field, 15, 130-131
Kirkwall, 238
Knox, John, 14, 107, 150, 164, 166, 184, 185-187, 190, 207, 307
L
"Lady of the Lake," 278-280
Lamb, Charles, 150
_Lands_, 100, 106, 125, 136, 168
Lang, Andrew, 31, 71
(quoted), 31, 162
Lauder, Harry, 180, 181, 282
Lavery, John, 317
Lawnmarket, 100
Le Croc, 16
Leith, 14, 116, 128, 155
Lethington, Mr., Secretary, 67
Lincoln, Abraham, 145
Lindisfarne, 7, 35
Lindsay, Sir David, 122
Linlithgow Palace, 184-185
Loch Leven, 45, 67, 106, 131
Lockhart (quoted), 46
Lomond, Ben, 285
Lomond, Loch, 281, 282-287
M
Macbeth, 132, 192, 216, 220, 226, 227, 229, 230
MacDonald, Flora, 45, 230, 233
MacDui, Ben, 202
Magdalene, Queen, 113, 156
Maid of Norway, 7, 210
Malcolm Canmore, 87, 90, 173, 177, 179, 200, 220, 229
Margaret of Denmark, 184, 210, 238
Saint, 35, 87, 90, 141, 158, 172, 174-177
Tudor, 124-126, 175, 184
Maries, the Four, 127, 128, 293
Marischal, Earl, 207, 208, 217, 220-223
Marmion, 17, 21, 22, 23, 157
Mary, Queen of Scots, 13, 15, 16, 17, 25, 36, 45, 57, 61, 64, 66, 67,
68, 86, 88, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 102, 105, 106, 114, 115, 126-131, 146,
147, 158, 160, 181-187, 190, 196, 230, 240, 292-293, 305, 306, 308,
316, 334
Masson, Rosaline (quoted), 132
McLeod of Dare, 270
Meg Merrilies, 62
Melrose, 5, 25, 48, 63, 113, 177, 227
Mendelssohn, 112, 268
Menteith, Lake, 292
Merlin, 29
Moffat, 70
Monk, General, 20
Mons Meg, 90-91, 97, 117
Montrose, Marquis of, 20, 28, 45, 71, 73, 106-108, 214, 248-249
(quoted), 108
Moray House, 102, 106
Moreville, Hugh de, 51
Mull, 257, 264, 266, 268, 270
N
Nairn, 225
Napoleon, 44, 45, 46
Nelson, Lord, 145
Netherbow Port, 100
Nevis, Ben, 202, 243, 249-251
Norham Castle, 17, 18
North, Christopher, 77, 245
Inch, Perth, 180
Noyes, Alfred (quoted), 98
O
Oban, 235, 252-258
Ossian, 258
P
Park, Mungo, 71, 74
Pennells, the, 61, 274, 281, 282
Percy's Reliques, 42, 58, 59
Perth, 187-192, 227
Peterhead, 6, 221-223
Philipshaugh, 28, 71, 73
Prestonpans, 25
Pulpit Hill, Oban, 257
Q
Queensberry House, 102
Queensferry, 172, 174
R
Raeburn, 136, 137
Ravelston, 154-155
Regalia, 96-97, 214-216
Richard II, 36, 88, 112
Rizzio, 130, 131, 190, 306
Rob Roy, 45, 285, 288, 318
Roman, 11, 40, 48, 51, 158
Roscoff, 68
Rosebery, Lord, 172
Rosetti (quoted), 189
Roxburgh, 54-55
Ruskin, 44, 191
S
St. Andrews, 14, 162-170
St. Cuthbert's Church, 95, 136
St. Giles Church, 67, 85, 93, 104, 118, 136, 146
St. John's Church, 136
St. Mary's Loch, 70
Sandyknowe, 49, 50
Sauchieburn (battle), 300, 302
Scone, 189, 227
Scotch plaids, 137
Scot, Michael, 29, 30, 34, 48
Scott monument, 137, 146
Scott, Sir Walter, 10, 17, 38, 41, 43, 44, 58, 62, 75, 82, 84, 91, 95,
97, 142, 144, 150, 152, 172, 177, 242, 255, 260, 281
(quoted), 18, 20, 21, 22, 26, 29, 30, 32, 37, 38, 50, 56, 74, 80,
118, 191, 264, 267, 277, 280, 282, 283, 289, 291, 294, 295, 296, 297,
302, 304, 305, 311
Sentimental Tommy, 85, 169
Severus, Emperor, 8
Shakespeare (quoted), 192, 225, 226, 230, 268
Sheriffmuir (battle), 300, 302
Skerryvore, 268
Skye, 268
Smailholm, 50
Smith, Adam, 150
Smollett, Tobias, 282, 332
Spynie Castle, 224
Staffa, 267-268
Stevenson, 10, 79, 82, 95, 142, 145, 147, 152, 172, 200, 267, 268,
275, 314
(quoted), 95, 104, 143, 145, 275
Stewart, Margaret, 15
the, 87, 108-109, 112, 115, 130, 194, 253, 305
Stirling (battle), 300, 227
Stonehaven, 210
Strathcona, Lord, 263
Stronochlachar, 288
T
Tam O'Shanter Inn, 325
Tantallon Castle, 157
Tay, 188, 191, 198
Taylor, the water-poet, 8, 99, 102, 203
Teviot, 54, 56
Thomas of Ercildoun, 42, 43, 229
Thomson, James, 59
Tibbie Shiel, 70, 77
Tilt, Glen, 196, 197, 203
Tiree, 267
Tolbooth, 45, 106
Tomnahurich, 229
Town Cross, Edinburgh, 125
Trehinish Isles, 266, 268
Tronkirk, 136
Turner, 18, 19, 20, 27, 39
Twain, Mark, 151
Tweed, 13, 15, 43, 44, 47, 54
U
Upson, Arthur, 148, 175
Urquhart, 244
V
Victoria, Queen, 4, 284, 285, 310, 312
W
Wallace, William, 74, 178, 214, 260, 308, 315-319
Wall, the, 10, 11
Warbeck, Perkin, 123
Watson, William (quoted), 334
Waverleys, the, 45, 144, 148
Wesley, John, 9
West Bow, 141
Westminster Abbey, 16
Whistler, 317
William, Fort, 236, 248
Winter, William, 10, 160, 228, 252
Wishart, George, 164
Wolfe, General, 288
Wordsworth, Dorothy, 34, 39, 61, 62, 95, 263, 284, 289, 294-295
William, 66, 69, 72, 73, 75, 225, 287, 331
Y
Yarrow, 47, 69, 70-72
Yetholm, 62