_September 4th_.
I met yesterday, in an old and ruined quarter of the town, a perfectly
exquisite mousmé, charmingly dressed; a fresh note of color against
the dark background of decayed buildings.
It was quite at the farthest end of Nagasaki, in the most ancient part
of the town. In this region are trees centuries old, ancient temples
of Buddha, of Amiddah, of Benten, or Kwanon, with steep and pompous
roofs; monsters carved in granite sit there in courtyards silent as
the grave, where the grass grows between the paving-stones. This
deserted quarter is traversed by a narrow torrent running in a deep
channel, across which are thrown little curved bridges with granite
balustrades eaten away by lichen. All the objects there wear the
strange grimace, the quaint arrangement familiar to us in the most
antique Japanese drawings.
I walked through it all at the burning hour of midday, and saw not a
soul, unless indeed, through the open windows of the bonze-houses, I
caught sight of some priests, guardians of tombs or sanctuaries,
taking their siesta under their dark-blue gauze nets.
All at once this little mousmé appeared, a little above me, just at
the point of the arch of one of these bridges carpeted with gray moss;
she was in full light, in full sunshine, and stood out in brilliant
clearness, like a fairy vision, against the background of old black
temples and deep shadows. She was holding her dress together with one
hand, gathering it close round her ankles to give herself an air of
greater slimness. Over her quaint little head, her round umbrella with
its thousand ribs threw a great halo of blue and red, edged with
black, and an oleander full of flowers growing among the stones of the
bridge spread its glory beside her, bathed, like herself, in the
sunshine. Behind this youthful figure and this flowering shrub all was
blackness. Upon the pretty red and blue parasol great white letters
formed this inscription, much used among the mousmés, and which I
have learned to recognize: _Stop! clouds, to see her pass by_. And it
was really worth the trouble to stop and look at this exquisite little
person, of a type so ideally Japanese.
However, it will not do to stop too long and be ensnared,--it would
only be another take-in. A doll like the rest, evidently, an ornament
for a china shelf, and nothing more. While I gaze at her, I say to
myself that Chrysanthème, appearing in this same place, with this
dress, this play of light, and this aureole of sunshine, would produce
just as delightful an effect.
For Chrysanthème is pretty, there can be no doubt about it. Yesterday
evening, in fact, I positively admired her. It was quite night; we
were returning with the usual escort of little married couples like
our own, from the inevitable tour of the tea-houses and bazaars. While
the other mousmés walked along hand in hand, adorned with new silver
top-knots which they had succeeded in having presented to them, and
amusing themselves with playthings, she, pleading fatigue, followed,
half reclining, in a djin carriage. We had placed beside her great
bunches of flowers destined to fill our vases, late iris and
long-stemmed lotus, the last of the season, already smelling of
autumn. And it was really very pretty to see this Japanese girl in her
little car, lying carelessly among all these water-flowers, lighted by
gleams of ever-changing colors, as they chanced from the lanterns we
met or passed. If, on the evening of my arrival in Japan, any one had
pointed her out to me, and said: "That shall be your mousmé," there
cannot be a doubt I should have been charmed. In reality, however, no,
I am not charmed; it is only Chrysanthème, always Chrysanthème,
nothing but Chrysanthème: a mere plaything to laugh at, a little
creature of finical forms and thoughts, that the agency of M.
Kangourou has supplied me with.