XXIX.

_August 10th_.

This evening it rained heavily, and the night was thick and black. At

about ten o'clock, on our return from one of the fashionable

tea-houses we constantly frequent, we arrived,--Yves, Chrysanthème and

myself,--at the certain familiar angle of the principal street, the

certain turn where we must take leave of the lights and noises of the

town, to clamber up the black steps and steep lanes which lead to our

home at Diou-djen-dji.

There, before beginning our ascension, we must first buy lanterns from

an old trades-woman called Madame Très-Propre,[E] whose faithful

customers we are. It is amazing what a quantity of these paper

lanterns we consume. They are invariably decorated in the same way,

with painted night-moths or bats; fastened to the ceiling at the

further end of the shop, they hang in enormous clusters, and the old

woman, seeing us arrive, gets upon a table to take them down. Gray or

red are our usual choice; Madame Très-Propre knows our preferences and

leaves the green or blue lanterns aside. But it is always hard work to

unhook one, on account of the little short sticks by which they are

held, and the strings by which they are tied getting entangled

together. In an exaggerated pantomime, Madame Très-Propre expresses

her despair at wasting so much of our valuable time: oh! if it only

depended on her personal efforts! but ah, for the natural perversity

of inanimate things which have no consideration for human dignity.

With monkeyish antics, she even deems it her duty to threaten the

lanterns and shake her fist at these inextricably tangled strings

which have the presumption to delay us. It is all very well, but we

know this maneuver by heart; and if the old lady loses patience, so do

we. Chrysanthème, who is half asleep, is seized with a fit of

kitten-like yawning which she does not even trouble to hide behind

her hand, and which appears to be endless. She pulls a very long face,

at the thought of the steep hill we must struggle up to-night through

the pelting rain.

[Footnote E: In Japanese: _O Séï-San_.]

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