I--IN WATLING STREET

Upon an evening in early autumn, I, who had never owned an orchard

before, stood in my orchard; behind me were a phalanx of some sixty

trees bearing (miraculously, to my simplicity) a fine crop of apples and

plums--my apples and plums, and a mead of some two acres, my mead, upon

which I discerned possibilities of football and cricket; behind these

was a double greenhouse containing three hundred pendent bunches of

grapes of the dark and aristocratic variety which I thought I had seen

in Piccadilly ticketed at four shillings a pound--my grapes; still

further behind uprose the chimneys of a country-house, uncompromisingly

plain and to some eyes perhaps ugly, but my country-house, the lease

of which, stamped, was in my pocket. Immediately in front of me was a

luxuriant hedge which, long unclipped, had attained a height of at

least fifteen feet. Beyond the hedge the ground fell away sharply into

a draining ditch, and on the other side of the ditch, through the

interstices of the hedge, I perceived glimpses of a very straight and

very white highway.

This highway was Watling Street, built of the Romans, and even now

surviving as the most famous road in England. I had “learnt” it at

school, and knew that it once ran from Dover to London, from London

to Chester and from Chester to York. Just recently I had tracked it

diligently on a series of county maps, and discovered that, though only

vague fragments of it remained in Kent, Surrey, Shropshire, Cheshire,

and Yorkshire, it still flourished and abounded exceedingly in

my particular neighbourhood as a right line, austere, renowned,

indispensable, clothed in its own immortal dust. I could see but patches

of it in the twilight, but I was aware that it stretched fifteen miles

southeast of me, and unnumbered miles northwest of me, with scarcely a

curve to break the splendid inexorable monotony of its career. To me it

was a wonderful road--more wonderful than the Great North Road, or the

military road from Moscow to Vladivostock. And the most wonderful thing

about it was that I lived on it. After all, few people can stamp the top

of their notepaper, “Watling Street, England.” It is not a residential

thoroughfare.

Only persons of imagination can enter into my feelings at that moment. I

had spent two-thirds of my life in a town (squalid, industrial) and the

remaining third in Town. I thought I knew every creosoted block in Fleet

Street, every bookstall in Shoreditch, every hosier’s in Piccadilly.

I certainly did know the order of stations on the Inner Circle, the

various frowns of publishers, the strange hysteric, silly atmosphere

of theatrical first-nights, and stars of the Empire and Alhambra (by

sight), and the vicious odours of a thousand and one restaurants. And

lo! burdened with all this accumulated knowledge, shackled by all these

habits, associations, entrancements, I was yet moved by some mysterious

and far-off atavism to pack up, harness the oxen, “trek,” and go and

live in “the country.”

Of course I soon discovered that there is no such thing as “the

country,” just as there is no such thing as Herbert Spencer’s “state.”

“The country” is an entity which exists only in the brains of an urban

population, whose members ridiculously regard the terrene surface as a

concatenation of towns surrounded by earthy space. There is England, and

there are spots on England called towns: that is all. But at that time I

too had the illusion of “the country,” a district where one saw “trees,”

“flowers,” and “birds.” For me, a tree was not an oak or an ash or an

elm or a birch or a chestnut; it was just a “tree.” For me there were

robins, sparrows, and crows; the rest of the winged fauna was merely

“birds.” I recognised roses, daisies, dandelions, forget-me-nots,

chrysanthemums, and one or two more blossoms; all else was “flowers.”

Remember that all this happened before the advent of the nature-book and

the sublime invention of week-ending, and conceive me plunging into this

unknown, inscrutable, and recondite “country,” as I might have plunged

fully clothed and unable to swim into the sea. It was a prodigious

adventure! When my friends asked me, with furtive glances at each other

as in the presence of a lunatic, why I was going to live in the country,

I could only reply: “Because I want to. I want to see what it’s like.” I

might have attributed my action to the dearness of season-tickets on

the Underground, to the slowness of omnibuses or the danger of cabs: my

friends would have been just as wise, and I just as foolish, in

their esteem. I admit that their attitude of benevolent contempt, of

far-seeing sagacity, gave me to think. And although I was obstinate,

it was with a pang of misgiving that I posted the notice of quitting

my suburban residence; and the pang was more acute when I signed the

contract for the removal of my furniture. I called on my friends before

the sinister day of exodus.

“Good-bye,” I said.

“Au revoir,” they replied, with calm vaticinatory assurance, “we shall

see you back again in a year.”

*****

Thus, outwardly braggart, inwardly quaking, I departed. The quaking had

not ceased as I stood, in the autumn twilight, in my beautiful orchard,

in front of my country-house. Toiling up the slope from the southward,

I saw an enormous van with three horses: the last instalment of my

chattels. As it turned lumberingly at right angles into my private road

or boreen, I said aloud:

“I’ve done it.”

I had. I felt like a statesman who has handed an ultimatum to a king’s

messenger. No withdrawal was now possible. From the reverie natural

to this melancholy occasion I was aroused by a disconcerting sound of

collision, the rattle of chains, and the oaths customary to drivers in a

difficulty. I ran towards the house and down the weedy drive bordered

by trees which a learned gardener had told me were of the variety,

_cupressus lawsoniana_. In essaying the perilous manoeuvre of twisting

round three horses and a long van on a space about twenty feet square,

the driver had overset the brick pier upon which swung my garden-gate.

The unicorn horse of the team was nosing at the cupressus lawsoniana

and the van was scotched in the gateway. I thought, “This is an omen.” I

was, however, reassured by the sight of two butchers and two bakers each

asseverating that nothing could afford him greater pleasure than to

call every day for orders. A minute later the postman, in his own lordly

equipage, arrived with my newspapers and his respects. I tore open a

paper and read news of London. I convinced myself that London actually

existed, though I were never to see it again. The smashing of the pier

dwindled from a catastrophe to an episode.

*****

Paris Nights, and Other Impressions of Places and People · 第 71 / 80 题