Discovery before the 26th when we found her at anchor off a Point of a
small opening called by Captn: Vancouver Restoration Point.[235] Here
there was a small village, containing, I shou'd suppose, about 60 or
70 Inhabitants.[236] It was situated on a fine rising ground, and the
Country round it was extremely pleasant to appearance and clear. The
Natives had brought a good supply of Venison to the Discovery. Two of
her boats with Lt: Paget & Mr Whidby were now absent on a surveying
expedition up the continuation of this & the Arms round us, and the
morning after our arrival Captn; Vancouver with Mr Johnstone set out
with two Boats on another expedition. Though I have but just before
mentioned that I conceived the Natives hereabouts had but little
intercourse with Europeans, we had here a proof that they were not
entirely unaccustomed to Trading Vessels for two very good Sea Otter
Skins were brought off for sale, and the price was copper. However they
took so reasonable a price, and their having no more than these two
skins among them makes me think that the knowledge they have of Trading
Ships is acquir'd by their own commerce with Tribes between them and
the Sea.
On the 27th at night Mr Whidby & Lt. Paget return'd from their
cruize having closed up the Arms.[237] In one place they met with a
considerable tribe of Indians from whom he had nearly met with some
trouble, but by early good management nothing material happened. After
being very well treated by the Boats party the Natives seized the
opportunity of their stopping at a Beach to Dinner, to attack them.
They were observed to string their Bows & sling their Quivers and were
making for the Wood behind the party at Dinner from whence it was no
doubt their intention to fire on them but as this was observ'd Mr
Menzies & Mr Manby catching up their Muskets ran up and drove them back
to their Canoes. As there were some opening to look into the Northd. we
weigh'd anchor and quitted this place the next day the 28th and as Mr
Johnstone was still absent in our Cutter with Captn: Vancouver we took
Mr Whidby and the Discovery's Launch with us to carry on the survey
and when we came abreast of the opening she was dispatched along with
our Launch in which went Ltd: Hanson with a week's provisions. In the
meantime we anchored off a place called Rose Point from the numerous
trees of that name that were on the low ground; besides this there were
plenty of currant, Gooseberry, & Raspberry bushes, and large beds of
Strawberries but very little if any of these Fruits were yet ripe.
June. On the 30th we were join'd by the Discovery and we proceeded
with her on the further examination of this tedious Inland Navigation.
Nothing remarkable occurred till the 2nd of June when sailing up a
place called Port Gardner in Possession Sound, by the negligence of the
man in the chains about one o'clock in the afternoon we run aground
upon a Muddy Bank. We immediately gave the Discovery the alarm and at
the same time made the Signal for assistance. She was astern of us and
directly anchor'd and dispatched her Boats to our relief. On sounding
astern of the Ship it was found that we had run a considerable distance
over a Shoal and before we could carry an anchor out into water
sufficiently deep we veer'd away four Hawsers on end. At Highwater we
hove off without any damage whatever and brought up in 9 fam. water.
As we found this place like all the others shut up, we weigh'd the
next morning and sail'd out of the Port and the following day anchor'd
in a Bay to wait the return of Lt Hanson & Mr Whidby and to celebrate
His Majesty's Birthday. The Boats return'd on the 4th and on that day
possession was taken on shore[238] by Captn: Vancouver in His Majesty's
name of all the Land in the Streights, and the part in which we now
were call'd Gulf of Georgia. On this occasion the Discovery fired 21
guns on the Flag of possession being hoisted and as the King's Birth
Day the Ship's Companies were served double allowance of Grog to drink
his health.
There was in this Bay a fine Sandy Beach where the Seine was haul'd
with pretty good success. We saw no Village nor Inhabitants near this
place but on the point of the beach there stood a remarkable high pole,
strongly supported by props at the Bottom, and at the top of it was
fixed a human skull. What the reason of so curious a thing could be no
one could divine. Many such had been seen in different parts of the
Inland Navigation and in Mr Hanson's late cruize. No less than three of
these Poles with skulls on them were seen at one place contiguous to
which was a very large burying Ground. Some bodies were wrapp'd up in
Mats & Skins and laid in canoes, whilst some that appear'd but recently
dead were thrown into a deep hole in the earth and not covered.
On the 5th we left this Bay and proceeded on our exploration, crossing
over to the opening out of which we came the 23rd of May, having to
that place carried the Continent. We found Tides here extremely rapid
and on the 9th in endeavouring to get round a point to a Bay in which
the Discovery had anchor'd, we were swept to Leeward of it with great
impetuosity. We therefore let go the Stream anchor in 28 fathoms water
but in bringing up, such was the force of the Tide that we parted the
Cable. We immediately let go the Bower with which we brought up. On
trying the Tide we found it running at the rate of 5-1/2 miles an hour.
At slack water we swept for the anchor but could not get it, after
several fruitless attempts to get it we were at last obliged to leave
it and join the Discovery in Strawberry Bay. This Bay obtain'd its
name from a tolerable quantity of Strawberries we found there. As the
Discovery had only been waiting for us here we left it the following
day and steered for a very extensive opening trending about N. and came
to an anchor in a very pleasant Bay which was called Birch Bay.[239]
From this place two Boat expeditions were undertaken one by Captain
Vancouver and the other by Mr Whidby. In the meantime the Observatory
was set up for the purpose of regulating the watches and Spruce Beer
brew'd for the Ships Companies. Our operations on shore were carried
on in a very convenient place there being a fine Grass plot of nearly
a mile in length with a fine fresh water River at the back of it.
Captn: Vancouver set out with his two Boats and 10 days provisions
on the 12th to the Westward and Mr Whidby with two Boats and a weeks
provisions towards an opening to the Eastward of us. The same Evening
we were surprised to see Mr Whidby's Boats return but much more so
when we learnt from them that they had seen two Vessels, a Brig and a
Schooner coming down the Arm which lay round the point of the Bay. It
was immediately conjectured from the improbability of trading vessels
being in this inhospitable part of the Coast and the distance from the
entrance of the Streights that they were foreign Vessels employed on
the same service as ourselves and which conjecture we afterwards found
to be right. A lookout for them was kept during the night and nothing
been seen of them. In the morning a boat was dispatched to the Entrance
of the arm but she returned without seeing them. It was thought they
had pass'd during the night. Mr Broughton therefore got under weigh
in the Chatham and the boats were re-dispatched on their examination.
Whilst the Chatham was getting under way the Vessels were observed by
the help of the Glasses a considerable way to the Westward of us so
that they must have pass'd in the night.
We soon came up with them and they hoisted Spanish Colours. A Boat
with an officer was sent on board the Brig where he was very politely
received by the Commander. They proved to be His Catholic Majesty's
Brig Soutile commanded by Don Dionisio Galiano and the Schooner
Mexicana, Don Cayetano Valdez, Commander; both Captains of Frigates in
the Royal Navy of Spain and employed in surveying these Streights to
complete the parts left unfinished by Seigr. Malespini with whom these
two gentlemen had been Lieutenants. They left Nootka late in May where
there were at that time lying 3 Frigates and a Spanish Brig of War, Don
Quadra, Commodore.
Don Galiano offered us every information & civility in his power and
sent on board some milk & cabbages that he had brought from Nootka. The
Vessels were very small, the Brig not being more than 45 tons Burthen.
They had each a Lieutenant, a Pilot, and twenty men and carried two
Brass Guns each. After receiving the necessary information we parted
from them and made for our old anchorage, whilst they continued their
route to the West. From this time to the 23rd we were employed in
taking the necessary observations for determining the rates of the
watches, and in other ways and Mr Whidby's party having returned after
an absence of six days, closing the places up which he went to explore.
We cut here some remarkably fine Plank, of the Pine tree, and there was
a good deal of Alder & Birch here. We had had tolerable good luck with
the Seine, the Bay affording plenty of Flat fish, some Salmon Trout and
a small kind of Bream and we now and then shot some Ducks. Though there
was no village near us and we were but very seldom visited by canoes,
Mr Whidby in his last Cruise,[240] at no great distance from the Ships,
met with a numerous Tribe of Indians, not less than 300, that were just
shifting their Village. They had very little connexion with them as
the Indians shew'd no desire for their landing near them. On the 23rd
Captn:
Vancouver returned after an absence of twelve days; he had met with the
two Spanish Vessels and been on board them and now was by agreement
going to join them as our destination was much the same as theirs and
as we shou'd be obliged to visit at the place to which Captn: Vancouver
had carried the Continent during a further expedition of the Boats[241]
we shou'd have an opportunity of being sociable.
On the 24th we quitted the Bay which is in the Lat: of 48.53.30 N and
the Long: 237.32 Et. and stood to the Westward. About Noon we came up
with the Spanish Vessels with whom we kept company till the 26th when
we came to the situation from whence our next surveying cruize was to
commence, and late at night the whole Squadron anchored, in a place
which from its uninviting shore and the few refreshments beyond water
which it produced was call'd by us Desolation Reach, its Lat: is 50.11
N and Longe: 235.27 Et.
In this dreary place (the first place that deserves that name that
we had been since we entered De Fuca's Streights) we lay about three
weeks in the course of which time no less than three Boat expeditions
were undertaken from us and two by the Spaniards. In the last of ours
by Mr Johnstone a passage to sea was discover'd by an extensive Arm
that led into Queen Charlotte's Sound and to which the continent had
been carried. Mr Johnstone's situation in this Arm of the Sound was
once or twice rather critical, for coming into it unexpectedly he was
surprised to find himself among several villages, populously inhabited
and well arm'd with Musquets, and they had endeavoured to decoy him to
a place where he observed, as he proceeded on, several large canoes
well mann'd, he however did not go near them, and prevented them from
following him.
July. On the 13th of July we took our leave of the Spaniards and made
the best of our way to where Mr Johnstone left off, and on the 17th
entered the Arm which is called in Captn: Vancouver's chart Johnstone's
Arm. When we got near the Villages, which chiefly lye on the Southern
Shore several canoes came off with Otter Skins to sell. Their demand
was here as at Cape Classett-Copper or Blue Cloth, Musquets and
Powder. Several of the Indians were habited in European Cloathes on
most of which was a profusion of Metal Buttons, and of Musquets, there
was scarce a canoe that we saw that had not two or 3 in it, and in
excellent order. On the 18th by desire of Captn: Vancouver we parted
from the Discovery to look into an Arm to the Northwd. This opening
led us into many small arms & Branches among a cluster of Islands that
ended all in Low Land. One of these Arms, and the most extensive, Mr
Broughton called Knight's Canal, and the whole was named by Captn:
Vancouver, Broughton's Archipelago.[242] In this business we were
employed upwards of a week. We met with but few Indians (the populous
part of this Sound being the So. side) they had all of them skins and
for the first time we got from them plenty of excellent Salmon. On the
29th we again join'd the Discovery, she had since we left her, been at
anchor off a very large Village call'd by the natives Whanneck, the
chief's name was Cathlaginness, it was numerously inhabited but they
were subject to Maquinna the chief of Nootka Sound; they as well as
all the people we had seen since entering the Sound spoke the Nootka
Language. Thus far and no further North does that Language extend and
its limits to the Southwd. is about Cape Classett. At this Village were
a great number of Sea Otter skins, and not less than two hundred was
purchased on board the Discovery, chiefly for old Cloathes and some
Copper.
As it is impossible to point out the boundaries of Defuca's Streights
I have carried on that name till we came into a place to which we know
there is a name and as all our examination continued Inland in Arms
& Branches of the Sea I have now begun to entitle this "The Inland
Navigation on the N. We. Coast of America."
August. We continued our survey of the Continent in the usual way
without any material circumstance happening till the 7th of August,
being still in the Sound, when the Discovery got aground on a ledge
of sunken rocks, we immediately brought up as near to her as we could
with safety, and sent the boats immediately to her assistance. The Tide
unfortunately was ebbing so that nothing could be done till High Water,
when she was hove off with out receiving any apparent damage, for while
she lay on the rocks the water was very smooth and she did not thump.
We continued our course to the Nd. The very next evening, having but
little wind and a strong Ebb tide running we were hustled upon some
Rocks and stuck fast. The Discovery was ahead of us and on our making
the Signal of Distress sent her Boats to our assistance. At High water
we hove off but we had every reason to suppose that her Copper (at
least) must have been much rubb'd, from her striking on the Rocks, as
there was a good deal of swell, and indeed when we came to lay her
ashore at Nootka, we had we found been right in out conjecture for
besides the Copper being much rubb'd her Gripe and part of her false
keel were carried away.
On the 11th we came to an anchor in Port Safety in Calvert's Island
and the following day dispatched two Boat expeditions, one to the S.
& E. to some opening we had pass'd and the other to the Nd. Here we
endeavoured to lay the Chatham ashore, for to look at her bottom, but
after frequent trials we found the Tide did not rise sufficiently. The
Seine was haul'd here with very great success, the First haul we took
120 large Salmon. The weather that we hitherto enjoyed since entering
the Streights of Defuca was remarkably fine having had in all that
time not a weeks bad weather but now the scene was changed and we had
nothing in this port but heavy rain & gloomy weather. On the 17th a
Brig entered the Harbour who shew'd English Colours. An officer was
immediately dispatched on board her. On his return we learn'd the
Vessel's name was the Venus, commanded by a Mr Shepherd from Bengal,
on a trading voyage to this Coast for skins, after she came to an
anchor the Master of her waited on Captn: Vancouver with his papers and
brought the agreeable news of our Storeship's being at Nootka waiting
for us. He delivered Captn: Vancouver a letter from the Master of her,
which had been given him in case of his falling in with us. This letter
merely said that they had been lying at Nootka ever since the beginning
of July and had heard of our being on the Coast from Mr Grey Master of
the Columbia whom we had spoke the day we entered Defuca Streights. The
news of her arrival threw everybody in high spirits which however was
soon damp'd and in no small degree by hearing the remaining part of the
letter, which mention'd that the King's Agent of the Transport, Lieut.
Hergest, and the Astronomer that was sent out in her to the Discovery
had been unfortunately murdered by the Natives of Woahoo (one of the
Sandwich Islands). The Spanish Commandant, Don Quadra, Mr Shepherd
inform'd us was anxiously looking out for us as he had been sent there
for the purpose of giving up the Port to us.
These circumstances, together with the unfavorable weather that still
continued and which we imagin'd was the commencement of the bad season,
induced Captn: Vancouver to alter his intentions and he now determined
on giving up any further examination this year and to make the best of
his way to Nootka. The 18th we all left the Port, the Venus standing
to the S. E. whilst we proceeded to sea round the N. side of Calvert's
Island: the Boats having joined us after their examination about Noon.
They had carried the continent up an extensive arm to a place called by
Captn. V. Cape Menzies, in the Lat: 52.19 N. & Long: 232.57 Et. they
were obliged to return their provisions being out but the arm seemed
to run a considerable distance beyond where they left off. Our Lat: at
Noon was 51.57.
We had now spent three months and a half in exploring an Inland
Navigation between the Lats: 48.23 N & 52.19 N. and the Long: 235.38
& 232.57 E. having kept the continental shore on board ever since our
entering the Streights of Defuca. The most Southern situation that we
were in, in the Streights was in the Lat: 47.3 N call'd Paget's Sound
and our most Eastern situation 238.2 E. long.
The Land in the Southernmost parts of these Streights was in several
places exceedingly pleasant, there were many extensive plains where
the soil was extremely rich and the verdure luxurious. Gooseberrys,
Currants, Raspberrys & Strawberries were to be found in many places,
and at the most of them, the Raspberrys & Strawberries were well
tasted. Onions were to be got almost everywhere, as was also Samphire
and a plant call'd by the Sailors Fat-hen, both of which when boil'd
eat remarkably well, the former being not unlike French Beans and the
latter but little inferior to Spinach.
In the Northern parts two kinds of what is call'd Huckleberries, Red &
Black, were found; these were excellent in Pies.
The Trees were of all kinds. Oak, Ash, Elm, Alder, Pine, Birch & Cedar.
Of Oak & Cedar we did not see so much as of any of the other kinds, but
as to the Pine Tree, the whole Coast is a Forest of it[243] and of it
and the Oak we saw trees of an immense size and calculated for any uses.
For such an extent as we travers'd over in Defuca and in so grateful
a part of America, from what we saw, it cannot be said to be very
populous, & tho' there were few that had not some European ornaments,
metals &c., about them, yet there were the most considerable number
of them that I shou'd suppose never saw a Ship before. The European
articles they possess being got I suppose by bartering with one another
between them and the Sea Coast. They appeared in general very quiet
people and the only weapons I ever saw among them were Bows & Arrows &
some few knives (but I shall have occasion to mention some accounts of
the Natives in general before I leave the Coast).
The Skins they had about them and what they brought to sell were all of
Land animals, Moose, Deer, Bear, Fox, Raccoon, Wild Cat, Martin, Land
Otter, Weasel, Rabbit &c. but no Sea Otters, these animals never being
found so far inland.
After we got to Sea we were harrassed with a foul wind from the S. E.
attended with Rain & Haze till the 25th (7 days) when at last we had
the wind from the pleasant quarter N. W. and pass'd to the Westward of
Scott's Islands, but what with calms and more foul winds it was not
till the 28th that we came in sight of Nootka Sound.
_Transactions in Nootka Sound_
On the 28th about 11 o'clock in the forenoon we enter'd the Sound with
a fair fresh Breeze, but so very foggy that we had lost sight of the
Discovery, nor did we see her when the Fog cleared away which was about
Noon.
As we approach'd the Cove we observed a Boat coming out to us with
the Spanish Colours flying, she came on board us, and proved to be
the Guard Boat. The Officer in her, on hearing who we were, and that
we were come out in company with the Discovery to receive this place
of them, discovered much satisfaction and the people in the Boat were
ready to leap overboard for joy, for it seems we were so long expected
that they had now given up all hopes of seeing us at all this season.
We found lying in Friendly Cove His Catholic Mjs. Brig. Activa of
twelve guns wearing Seigr. Quadra's Broad Pendant, the Doedalus
Transport, with Stores and Provisions for us; and the Three Bs, a
Brig commanded by a Mr Alder, on the Fur Trade from New Castle. The
Discovery was not here. Seigr. Quadra sent off an invitation to Captn.
Broughton to dine ashore which was accepted, and after the usual
ceremonies of demanding: gun for gun we saluted the Fort with 13 guns
which were returned with an equal number from the Activa. The Master of
the Storeship, Mr New, waited on Captn. B. and brought some Packets of
Letters for us from our friends in England.
About 4 o'clock the Discovery hove in sight and shortly after enter'd
the Cove and took her berth close to us. She likewise saluted the Fort
with 13 Guns, which was returned and in the evening Captn. Vancouver
waited on Seigr. Quadra ashore.
The next day (the 29th) Seigr. Quadra gave a grand dinner at his house
on shore to the two Commanders and their officers. After the dinner was
over (which by the bye was given in a style but little expected in such
a place as Nootka) Seigr. Quadra gave the Healths of the Sovereigns of
England & Spain accompanied by 21 guns fired from his Brig and also
Captn. Vancouver's health with 13 guns.
In the evening the Governor sent a couple of fine sheep with a large
stock of Cabbages &c. on board each of the vessels and also a cask of
Rum to the Ship's Company. The live stock on shore belonging to the
Governor consisted of about ten head of cattle, some sheep & goats,
Pigs, and Poultry of all kinds. Their stock, we were informed, had been
much larger, but expecting that we should have been much earlier with
them they had been very liberal with it and as it was supposed that on
receiving the Port one of our vessels would stay here the remainder
of the stock was intended to be left with us. There were besides
several large gardens well stocked with vegetables of all kinds.
All the Vessels in the Cove were regularly supplied with Hot Rolls,
Milk & Vegetables every morning--such was the Hospitable and friendly
attention of Seigr. Quadra.
Except the Governor's House,[244] which is large, and built of wood
and has a second floor, there are none other except some sheds for
Artificers and two or three storehouses. In one of these was now living
a Mr Magee, Master of the Margaret, merchant ship of Boston. She was
now trading to the N. for Furs but had left Mr Magee here on account
of ill health, his Surgeon and a gentleman of the name of Howell (a
passenger) was residing on shore with him. But before we were here long
we found that ill-health was not Mr Magee's only motive for remaining
on shore here, for he was carrying on a most profitable trade with
the Spaniards & Seamen in Spirituous Liquors, generously charging
only four Dollars a gallon for Yankee Rum that cost him most probably
about 2/--or half a crown per gallon. Indeed the ill effects of this
shameful trade was soon too great to pass without taking notice of
it, and endeavouring to put a stop to it. Our Seamen were continually
drunk which from the badness of the liquor threw them into fits of
sickness; and Captn. Vancouver was at last oblig'd to take measures
that prevented any further trade of that nature with our people.
On the Fort which is at the S. pt: of entrance of Friendly Cove there
were now but two guns mounted: there had been 18 but the Frigate which
had sailed for San Blas about a month before had taken the remainder of
the guns with her.
As we expected to remain here some time the Tents & observatory were
taken ashore and set up in an advantageous spot behind the Governor's
house in a garden fronting the entrance of the Sound. The new
observatory with the circular instrument, Astronomical Clock, three
Timekeepers & the other Astronomical Instruments that were sent out
by the Board of Longitude with the unfortunate Astronomer Mr Gooch
were also sent on shore here. We now heard the particulars of the two
unfortunate gentlemen, Lieut. Hergest the Agent, and Mr Gooch and the
poor seaman who were cut off by the Natives of Woahoo, one of the
Sandwich Islands.
(Description of the massacre of these men is omitted as of no interest
for the present purpose. A. H. T.)
(To be continued.)
FOOTNOTES:
[235] Opposite the present City of Seattle and near the entrance to
Port Blakeley.