arrive this evening, and embark tomorrow, the men will probably arrive
a little before him and be employed gumming the boats.--Mr Kittson is
not certain until he arrives at the Forks, whether he will take a canoe
or a small boat, the men proposed taking the boat as it would be able
to sustain much more injury than the canoe, and they thought they would
be able to carry it, when it was necessary to carry it. I recommended
Mr Kittson to be certain before he left the Forks whether they will be
able to carry it.
Friday 11
Excessive heavy rain in the night, overcast mild weather during the day.
Two men cutting wood & 1 carting it home to fill up the sides of the
house where the boats are to be built. Philip came home from his coal
pit having finished it, he and another man have been employed at this
job 15 days. Late last night an Indn. arrivd from Okanagan for a horse
that was promised Mr Ermatinger, with which we sent off the Indn. this
morning.
Satd.y. 12
Mild pleasant weather during the day. Sharp frost in the night.
Three men employed at wood for the boat house as yesterday--Philip
doing little jobs in the forge, & Canotte tieing up the pieces of the
Flat Head outfit.
An Indian arrived from the Forks with the horses that took down the
Kootany outfit and brought a letter from Mr Kittson in which he informs
us that the men were perfectly able to carry the boat and that he was
going to take it, & expected to get on well--he would be off about noon
yesterday.
In the evening the men who accompanied Mr McLeod arrived from
WallaWalla, and brought letters from Mr Dease[186] informing us that
in consequence of Mr Ogden not having yet arrived he was prevented
from setting out for this place but directing me to to lose no time in
setting out for the F. Heads and to leave Mr Birnie in charge of this
place.--And also with directions to leave him any notes that may be
useful to him.--
The horses from both places are much fatigued. Sent them off late in
the evening to the plains.--
Sunday 13
Overcast mild weather.
Busy employed getting everything ready to set out to the Flat
Heads[187] tomorrow. The horses were brought home in the evening
they are so very lean & weak that we will scarcely get 12 the number
required to carry the outfit and baggage across the portage able to go.
I have all the papers &c in readiness to give Mr Dease all the
information I can on his arrival, and requested Mr Birnie who is well
acquainted with the place and the routine of the business to explain
everything to him.
We will be compelled to take 8 men up as fewer would not be able to
work the canoes, this will leave only 2 men here, but as many as
possible must be sent down from the F. Heads as soon as we arrived.
Monday 14
Foggy soft weather.
Set out with the people before noon for the Flat Heads, and encamped at
the Horse Plains,[188] which is but a short journey but, as the horses
are very lean & did not feed last night they require to feed.
The Horses that remain except the 2 (carters) and 6 that are missing
were put under charge of the Senchos chief who is to keep them during
the winter.
Tuesday 15
Proceeded on our journey at 8 oclock and encamped at the little
River[189] at the farthest end of the Coer de Alan plain at 3, the
horses much fatigued.
Found four of our horses that were missing in the plain & 1 where we
slept last night, the other is in the plains at the Chutes,[190] which
is the whole that was missing.
(Le Course's) horse strayed in the night, he was searching for him all
day without success, it was dark when he arrived at the camp.
Two of the men Paul and Felix were about all night. Paul was on a
marrying excursion and had bargained with an Indian for his sister and
paid him the articles stipulated for, but on coming a little further
on passing the lodge of the girl's mother, who it seems had received
nothing, she objected to the girl going and Paul much disappointed had
to come away and leave her & the property too.
Wed.y. 16
Soft mild weather, heavy fog like drizzling rain.
Continued on journey before 8 oclock and encamped at 3 at the rat
Lake[191] though but a short journey the horses much fatigued.--
In the evening Conoth one of the men killed 2 geese.--(Charlo) the
Iroquoy was off seeking Deer but without success.
Thursd. y. 17
Sharp frost in the night fine clear weather all day.
Resumed our journey before 8 oclock and reached the end of the
Portage[192] after 10 when the canoes were immediately got out of the
woods and the men distributed into crews and busily employed repairing
the canoes arranging paddles poles &c. The saddles appichimans &c were
tied up ready to send off with an Indian who came to take home the
horses.
I had intended to take four canoes as they would be all required to
bring down the fall trade & for the spring, but on account of the
lateness of the season and the length of time it would take going up
with two men per canoe, I am induced to alter my plans & take only
three, we will then have 3 men per canoe including an Indian who is
going up.
A woman who is going this road to join one of the Cootenay men ( ),
very shortly after arriving at the camp brought forth a child, and
seemed attending to her little affairs during the day afterwards as if
nothing had happened.
Friday 18
Some sleet and rain in the morning. foggy soft weather afterwards.
Everything being ready & the canoes loaded, we embarked before 8
oclock, and made a good days work, as we encamped at the old Fort[193]
at the upper end of the Lake, it was past 4 oclock when we encamped,
fortunately it was calm when we crossed the lake, we were retarded a
little at the sandy point[194] by the shallowness of the water.
I had first intended to take four canoes with two men in each, but
considering that it would take a long time to get up so weakly manned
at this late season. I altered my plan & took only three, we have now
three men in each and an Indian that it going up with us making the 9th
man.
Passed some Indians only one of whom we spoke to him we induced to tell
all he knew, that Mr. Kittson had taken another rout that the Kootenies
would find him below the Chutes[195] at the place appointed.
Before we embarked in the morning sent off the Indians who came from
the Fort for the purpose, with the horses saddles, appichimans, cords,
in all 20 horses including the Company's 13. Messrs. McDonald[196]
Kittson & myself 3 Men 4 & Indian 3, besides he is to take 5 by the
way, 4 from the Coeur de Alan plains & 1 from our first encampment,
these are the horses that were strayed, three are now missing now.
Satd.y. 19
Soft foggy weather cold in the morning.
Embarked a little past six oclock & encamped a little past 3 above the
(Lower) Rapid[197], to get the canoes gummed as they had become very
leaky.--This is a pretty good days work at this late season.
Sunday 20
Blowing fresh in the night some rain. Mild foggy weather during the day.
It was near 7 oclock when we embarked owing to the bad road we had to
pass--it required to be broad daylight--We were detained two hours
gumming Chala's canoe, which retarded us considerably, yet we got over
the Stony Island portage & encamped near 4 oclock at its upper end
where all the canoes were gummed.
Monday 21
Soft weather but raw and cold.
Embarked past 6 oclock, and were detained an hour gumming Charla's
canoe again, and again encamped a little below the barrier Rivers[198]
a little past 2 oclock to get the canoes thoroughly gummed, it was
night by the time this business was completed.--Saw 2 deer but could
not approach them.
Tuesday 22
Raw cold foggy weather.
Embarked a little past 6 oclock and encamped before 4, (in order to
join the canoes), a little below the Chutes. Notwithstanding that the
canoes were gummed yesterday evening an hour was lost gumming Chala's
one shortly after we started. had it not been for these delays we would
have been past the Chutes.
Wed.y. 23
Foggy in the morning, cloudy pleasant weather afterwards. This is the
only day the sun shone occasionally since we left Spokane.
Continued our route at 6 oclock reached the Chutes[199] at, had
canoes and all carried across & the canoes gummed & reembarked at 12
and encamped at the upper end of Thompsons[200] near 4.--We took up
some goods a barrel of powder, 2 traps and two bags of ball and shot
mixed that were burried at a rapid a little above the Chutes. Though
these things were burried in a dry place the bags that contained the
ball were completely rotten, and the hoops on the keg so rotten that
it hardly held together till the powder was got emptied into a bag.
Property hidden this way ought to have wood all round it on every side
so that the earth could not touch it, otherwise it will in a very short
time be rotten and spoiled.
Some Indians and a freeman visited us shortly after we encamped. From
the former we got 4 small trout and a bale of meat which was very
acceptable to the men as they have had nothing but dry salmon since
they left the Fort. By these people we learn that the Flat Heads are
not yet arrived, but that the Pendent Orielles are a little above the
Fort. The two men whom Mr Ogden[201] sent with the F Heads to take up
the beaver which he hid found them all safe and are on their way in
with them.
Gave the Indians a little Tobacco.
Thursday 24
Sharp frost in the forepart of the night rain afterwards,--foggy in the
morning cloudy in the afternoon.--
Embarked at a little past 6 oclock and arrived at the Fort[202] at
11. The houses are all standing but without doors or windows & all
the floors torn up by the Indians scouting for anything that might be
under them. Some of the pieces were burned & marks of where a fire had
been made in the dwelling house that had the wood been dry would have
destroyed all the buildings.--Some of the doors could not be found &
several empty kegs which had been left here were brok to pieces. The
men were employed the afterpart of the day fixing doors to the store
and laying the floors. The store was got temporarily closed and the
goods stowed in it.
Two Indians who were here went off to the Pendant Oreille camp with
whom a piece of Tobacco was sent to the three principal men.--And
notice sent them that we would be ready to trade tomorrow or next day
when they chose to come.--
Friday 25
Snow in the night & morning the most of which had thawed & disappeared
on the low grounds towards evening.
The men employed arranging their axes and afterwards squaring planks
for doors &--.
An Indian one of the Pendant Oreille chiefs arrived to enquire when we
would be ready to trade, though word had been sent to them yesterday
that we were ready when they chose to come. Gave him a little tobacco
when he set off & a few balls and Powder to send some of his young men
to get some fresh meat.
A young man also came with a present of 4 fresh buffalo tongues.
Saturday 26
Disagreeable weather with snow and sleet the forepart of the day but
fair in the afternoon.
Had the men employed making doors and putting the houses in order.
The Indians began to arrive about noon and a brisk trade was
immediately commenced and continued on till it was getting dark. I am
unable to ascertain exactly the amount of the days trade, but there are
upwards of 340 beaver skins and nearly 40 bales of meat. There was a
great demand for guns and Tobacco.--The Indians as is the case still
when a stranger arrives among them, complain about being harder dealt
with than heretofore, however they seemed well pleased notwithstanding
that (not?) a single item of their (prices) demanded would be abated.
Sunday 27
Sharp frost in the night. Mild pleasant weather during the day.
The Indians arrived in the morning & trade was resumed and continued on
nearly all day, but not so brisk as yesterday. The Indians say their
trade is nearly finished.--Some parchment skins were traded to make
windows for the houses and some mats to cover them of which they are in
want as the wet drips through the roofs.
A present of 16 inches of Tobacco to each of the 3 F. H. chiefs was
given to an Indian to carry to them and to apprise them of our arrival.
The Indians with whom we have been trading these two days are
principally Pendent Oreilles or Collespellums, with a few Flat Heads,
or Asschesh,[203], and some Spokans.--
Monday 28
Thin frost in the night, fine mild weather during the day.
Two men employed assorting & examining the meat, the others finishing
the doors putting in windows, & covering the house with mats.--
A few straggling Indians traded a little meat and a few Beaver Skins
and appichimans. The Indians are all encamped at some distance[204]
from the Fort, there is only one lodge here.--
Tuesdy 29
Frost in the night. Pleasant mild weather during the day.
The men differently employed as yesterday. The meat is not all yet
assorted.
La (Broch), one of the principal F. Head chiefs arrived with 8 or 9 men
who traded 16 bales meat & 13 Beaver skins, & a few appichimans.
A Kootany Indian arrived in the morning from the camp of a small
party of that tribe that is at a short distance and told us that they
intended to visit us and trade what furs they had in a few days. I did
not wish that these Indians would come here at all as a Fort is on
their own lands expressly for them, but as it is likely it would be
well on in the season before they might see Mr. Kittson & that perhaps
they would not exert themselves hunting while they have furs on hand
I thought it most advisable not to prevent them from coming in and
that after trading they would hunt briskly on their way to Mr Kittsons
Fort & that although more furs would be obtained for the Company I
understand there is only a few lodges of them here which separated from
the Pendent Oreilles & Flat Heads a short time ago.
The carcasses of 3 Deer and 2 Beaver were traded from the Indians.
Wedy. 30th
Sharp frost, clear pleasant weather.
The men differently employed.
A few Indians visited the Fort and traded a little meat & a few beaver
and appichimans.--I sumed up the trade since our arrival on the 24th
Inst. and find it to amount to 310 large & 202 small beaver, 11 otters,
76 Rats, 4 fishes, 1 mink, 1 Robe, 6 dressed, deer skins, 17 pacht,
do. 4 dressed Elk skins, 11 saddles, 111 fathoms cord, 97 appichimans,
69 bales, 4094 lbs. net wt. dry meat, 170 fresh Tongues, 103 dry do,
342 lbs. 5-1/4 (dry) fresh venison, 4 Bushels Roots, 50 (?), 14 Horns
buffalo, 4 Hair Bridles and 2 dogs.
The Expenditure for the above trade including presents of Tobacco & am.
to the chiefs, smoaking &c is as follows 4 doz. Inds. awls, 6 half &
4 small axes, 1-2/3 doz. (hawk balls), 2-1/4 lb. N. W. 5 lb. canton,
and 2-1/2 yds. green Transparent Beads, 115 lbs. Ball, 1 (Eyed Dog),
2 Files 7 Inch. 14 guns, 78 flints, 3-1/2 doz. gun (?), 11 Looking
Glasses, 37 lbs. gun Powder, 11 Kirby hooks, 18-1/4 lbs. brass & copper
kettles, 4-1/6 doz. scalpers & 11/12 doz. Folding Knives, 3-1/2 yds
Red Strands, 3 pr. (?), 2 lbs. Beav. shot 3-1/2 doz. Thimbles, 72 lb.
Tobacco, 3 Beaver Traps and 1/2 lb. Vermillion--The awls, Flints and
gun (worms) were generally given for nothing and also some of the
Tobacco. The bales of dry meat cost on an average 3-1/2 (Pluis) and was
paid for principally with ammunition, a little Tobacco & some knives.
The bales as bought from the Indians average about 60 lbs. net each. Of
the above 4094 lbs. meat, there are 2314 lb. Lean, 1340 Back fat, and
440 Inside fat.
Decr. Thursday 1st.
Overcast frosty weather.
The men employed splitting planks cutting firewood, &c.
An old Flat Head chief Le Buche, the only one yet arrived visited the
Fort with 8 or 9 attendants, who traded in the course of the evening
13 bales of meat and a few beaver skins.--The old chief has taken up
his quarters with me and says he intends to stay three nights. He has a
good deal of influence with the Indians.
Friday 2
Weather as yesterday. Snow in the night.
A few Indians still visiting the house but little to Trade. 1-1/2 Deer
were purchased.
Saturday 3
Overcast milder weather than these days past. Some snow in the night.
The men splitting planks.
A Kooteany Indian arrived yesterday evening and went off only this
morning. With him I sent a letter to Mr Kittson which I supposed might
be nearly at his fort by this time, but as I had learned from Soteaux a
freeman that the road was very difficult & that probably he would have
to return I sent word to the Indians that in case of their not hearing
of his arrival, to come in here and trade their furs immediately, but
if heard of his arrival to go to their own Fort & by no means come
here. The sooner the furs can be got out of the Indians hands the
better, as they will then exert themselves to collect more.
Mr Kittson and his people arrived in the evening in a canoe with their
supplies for the Kootenais. It seems that on entering the Kootany River
after mounting the Columbia they found the Navigation so difficult
that it was deemed impracticable to reach their destination with the
craft they had (a small boat) or indeed with any craft except one that
two men could carry. Mr Kittson therefore determined to return to
Spokan and make his way by the old rout[205] across Au Platte Portage,
but reaching Spokan the Company's horses were so lean that a sufficient
number (only 8 or 9) were totally incapable of undertaking the journey
and would not have been able to perform it. He, therefore proceeded on
to this place with the canoe that I left at the Coeur d Alan portage,
and sent a man across land to the Kootenais to apprise them of his
failure in attempting to get to their country and to make the best of
their way to this place to Trade.
Not succeeding in getting to the Kootany country in time will be
attended with some loss in beaver as a part of the fall hunt will be
lost, however as things are now situated there is no means of remedying
it, the supplies cannot be sent to meet them and detain them in their
own country for want of horses, which cannot be procured here.
The Governor was certainly misinformed regarding the navigation when he
ordered the Kootany supplies to be sent by water.
Sunday 4
Foggy mild weather, but still freezing.
Eight young men from the Kootany camp arrived and traded 15 small
beaver skins for Tobacco with which they set off in the evening to
regain the camps. A little Tobacco was sent to the chiefs.--The young
men report that seeing no whites arrive, the chiefs had raised camp
to come here[206] & trade, and that the man whom Mr Kittson sent came
up with them & is now with the Chief.--The camp is not far off but it
will be some time before they reach this as they make but short days
marches. They have plenty of beaver.
Monday 5th
Some snow in the morning. Overcast mild weather afterwards.
The Old Chief La Buche paid us another visit. A few other Indians
visited the Fort but had little to trade.
The man whom Mr Kittson sent round by the Kootanies arrived in the
afternoon accompanied by an Indian. He was very well treated by
the Indians. The whole tribe are on their way here and at no great
distance, but it will still be some days before they arrive as they
make but slow marching.
The men employed packing up what beaver and appichimans we have
already traded, for the purpose of sending off two canoes. The furs,
appichimans, saddles &c will not more than load 1 canoe the other
we will have to load with provisions though by so doing we subject
our silves to the chance of being in want before the spring in case
any mischance should befall the Flat Heads so that they have been
unsuccessful and do not bring in a supply. I much wished to detain the
canoes till the F. Heads arrived but being anxious to get La Course to
Spokan to commence the boat building as soon as possible, and being
apprehensive that the Navigation might be stopped by the ice it is
deemed necessary to send them off immediately, specially as the men
have to go to Spokan for some supplies, and on account of the canoes it
is very disirable that they get back by water.--
Tuesday 6th
Rain in the night & snow towards morning and snow & sleet during the
day.
Sent off the two canoes 5 men each 7 of whom are to return and 3 to
remain below. The canoes are not deep laden having only 22 pieces each
besides the people's provisions.--
Th Old Chief La Buche took his departure in the evening. Some Indians
traded a few beaver & appichimans.
Wed.y. 7
Rained hard in the night and all day.
Some Indians Pendent Oriells & Spokans traded nearly 40 beavers & some
appichimans.--
With the constant rain the water is dripping through the houses in
every direction. Sent word to the Indians to bring some mats to cover
them.
Thursday 8
Continued raining all night & the greater part of the day.
Some Indian women arrived in the morning with mats which were traded
and the men immediately set too to cover the houses with them which
nearly completed befor night, at least the trading shop & store. We
have only two men & the cook since we sent the people off.--
Received news from the F. Head camp they are still at a considerable
distance and will be some time before they reach us, as their horses
are very lean & they make but slow marching. It is said they have
plenty of meat, but no amount of furs.--
Friday 9th.
Foggy with showers of rain.
A party of about 20 Nezperces arrived in the evening from the
Buffalos[207] but deferred trading till tomorrow. Gave them to smoke.
These peoples horses are very lean, & from them we learn that the Flat
Heads horses are still worse in consequence of which it will still be
some time before they come away. These Indians fired a salute to the
Fort on their arrival.[208] It has been hitherto the custom to return
the salute as I had omitted to do so to Old La Buche (from not knowing
their customs,) when he arrived with a few young men and also fired,
lest it would cause jealousy, however, as the old gentlemen again paid
us a visit this evening, & was smoking with the chiefs we explained to
him the cause of our not firing, and told thse people we would give
them a round on their departure, which La Bouche said would give him
no offense. I understand it is pleasing to the Indians to receive this
mark of respect. As the expense is but trifling we intend returning
their salutes when they arrive in future.--
Saturday 10th
Foggy in the morning, Sun shining occasionally during the day.
The Nezperces that arrived yesterday traded 18 beaver, 23 Appichimans,
2 Robes, 5 Saddles, 4 dressed skins, 97 Tongues, 10 (Bosses), & 11
Bales of Meat 665 lbs net., principally for Tobacco & ammunition.
Some other Indians visited the Fort but had little to trade.
Sunday 11
Overcast soft mild weather.
The Nezperces chief & his men went off for the Flat Head camp. A few
shots were fired on their departure. A little Tobacco was sent with the
chiefs to C. McKay[209] who is coming in with the Snake furs.--A young
man arrived from the Kootany Chief who is encamped with all his people
at a short distance & will be here tomorrow. A small piece of Tobacco
was sent to the Chief.
Had 113 Buffalo Tongues salted in bags made of (pannefliches)[210]
having no kegs, we expect they will keep in the bags.
Monday 12
Foggy raw cold weather, drizzly rain in the evening.
The Kootany chief with about a dozen of his men arrived and smoked
but brought no furs with them as they said they intended to trade
tomorrow. The Chief it seems has been occasionally accustomed to get
a dram on his arrival, and on asking for it got a glass of rum mixed
with water, which, little as it was, with the smoking took him by the
head and made him tipsy. A woman who goes in mens clothes[111] & is a
leading character among them was also tipsy with 3/4 of a glass of the
mixed liquor and became noisy, some others of the leading men who got
a little were not affected by it. Gave them some tobacco to smoke when
they went off in the evening.
When it was dark 3 Au Plattes, another band of Kootenais, arrived for
some Tobacco to smoke, these people are all afoot and were not able to
keep up with the main band who have horses. They are all said to have
plenty of beaver.
The men employed sorting and baling up meat.
Tuesday 13
Weighty rain in the night, soft mild weather during the night.