Transcriber's note:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
Small capital text has been replaced with all capitals.
Variations in spelling, punctuation and hyphenation have been retained
except in obvious cases of typographical error.
The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up
paragraphs, thus the page number of the illustration might not match
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[Illustration: ALMA WHITE]
WITH GOD IN THE
YELLOWSTONE
BY
ALMA WHITE
AUTHOR OF
_Looking Back from Beulah_ (in both English
and German), _Gems of Life_, _Golden Sunbeams_,
_Demons and Tongues_, _The Chosen People_, _My
Trip to the Orient_, _The New Testament Church_
(2 vols.), _The Titanic Tragedy--God Speaking
to the Nations_, _Truth Stranger than Fiction_,
_Why I do not Eat Meat_, _Restoration of Israel,
the Hope of the World_, _The Story of My Life_
(Vol. I); and Editor of the _Pillar of Fire_, the
_Good Citizen_, the _Rocky Mountain Pillar of Fire_,
the _London Pillar of Fire_, the _British Sentinel_,
and the _Occidental Pillar of Fire_.
PILLAR of FIRE
Zarephath,--New Jersey
1920
_Copyright, 1920, by Alma White_
PREFACE
In this volume I have attempted not simply to give a brief account of
a recent trip to Yellowstone National Park and to describe some of
Nature's grandeurs, but to elucidate spiritual truths that were
demonstrated in this place of many "wonders" in a thousand miracles
before my eyes.
There is no more poetical, picturesque, and fascinating spot on the
globe, and no other place where magnificence and sublimity blend so
harmoniously with the softest tints and colorings as in the
Yellowstone region.
Here are geological formations in which the book of ages has been
written in inks of variegated hues. In the canyons, rivers, and
waterfalls, in the lakes, springs, and pools, specimens of Eden have
been preserved on the outside of a thin crust, covering the sulphurous
flames of the regions below, where the rumblings of God's wrath are
heard threatening the world with judgments.
The mighty forces that operated in ages past are still at His command,
demonstrated by the boiling springs, the volcanoes and spouting
geysers. Ten thousand omens are heralding the approach of the
winding-up of this age, and the beginning of a new dispensation in
which all men shall acknowledge Jehovah in His majesty and power as
the one and only Potentate worthy of the adoration and homage of the
human race.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Historical Statement 9
CHAPTER I--Enroute to the Park 19
CHAPTER II--Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone 33
CHAPTER III--Upper and Lower Falls 47
CHAPTER IV--Mammoth Hot Springs 59
CHAPTER V--Norris Geyser Basin 73
CHAPTER VI--Upper Geyser Basin 84
CHAPTER VII--Upper Geyser Basin (Cont.) 102
CHAPTER VIII--The Bottomless Pit 109
CHAPTER IX--The Voice of God 123
The Yellowstone and How it was Made 136
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
ALMA WHITE _Frontispiece_
Map of Yellowstone Park 8
Group of Bannock Indian War Chiefs 12
Bannock Indian Papoose 14
Arch at Northern Entrance to Yellowstone Park 18
Shoshone Canyon 22
Shoshone Dam 24
The Holy City 27
Pahaska Tepee Lodge 29
Chittenden Bridge 32
Sylvan Lake 35
Yellowstone Lake 37
Eagle's Nest Rock 40
Grand Canyon, from Inspiration Point 42
Willow Park Camp 45
Lower Yellowstone Fall 48
Bear Feeding "A La Carte" 52
Upper Yellowstone Fall 55
Beaver Dam 61
Mammoth Hot Springs 63
Fort Yellowstone 66
Obsidian Cliff 69
Roaring Mountain 72
Norris Geyser Basin 75
National Park Mountain 78
"Hell's Half Acre" 80
Mammoth Paint Pots 83
Office Old Faithful Inn 85
Old Faithful Geyser 86
Giantess Geyser in Action 89
The Sponge Geyser 93
The Beehive Geyser 95
Castle Geyser 98
Butterfly Spring 100
Riverside Geyser 105
Giant Geyser 107
Morning Glory Spring 108
Grotto Geyser 111
Sapphire Pool--Biscuit Basin 114
Punch Bowl 116
Handkerchief Pool 118
Emerald Pool 121
Jupiter Terrace 125
Buffalo Herd 127
Elk Stalled in Snow 130
Golden Gate Canyon and Viaduct 132
[Illustration: MAP OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK]
HISTORICAL STATEMENT
In a book entitled, _The Discovery of Yellowstone Park_, written by
Nathaniel P. Langford, the author gives an account of an expedition of
130 persons who started from St. Paul, June 16, 1862, for the Salmon
River, as it had been widely rumored that extensive placer mines had
been discovered there. The expedition was led by Captain James L.
Fisk, the noted Indian fighter. Among his assistants were E. H.
Burritt, Nathaniel P. Langford, and Samuel R. Bond, who acted as
secretary. David E. Folsom, Robert C. Knox, Cornelius Bray, Patrick
Doherty, Ard Godfrey, and Patrick Bray, were selected for guard duty.
Many well-known pioneers of Montana were in this company, whose names
are familiar to the writer.
After eighteen weeks of hazardous adventure, the expedition arrived,
on the 23d of October, at Grasshopper Creek. The weather being too
cold for them to proceed on the journey, they decided to camp in that
locality for the winter. This region was then the rendezvous of the
Bannack Indians; and the St. Paul expedition named the settlement
Bannack.
To me it is a strange coincidence that this expedition of pioneers
should have left St. Paul on the day of my birth, the 16th of June,
1862; and that on March 31st, 1882, a little more than nineteen years,
later, I should reach this same locality, having been engaged to teach
the Bannack public school, which I began the 4th of April.
Frequently the early history of the town and its inhabitants was
rehearsed in my hearing, but many deplored the fact that some of the
old-timers had moved to Virginia City, Helena, Butte, and other
places, and that the placer mines of Bannack were not so prosperous as
in former days. But there were enough of the pioneers left to keep
fresh in the memories of the younger generation the stories of
adventures with wild beasts, the Indians, etc. Some of the stories
were looked upon as fabrications, while others were known to be plain
statements of facts.
I heard so much about the Indians, their reprisals and cruelty, that I
lived in constant dread of them, even when there was no cause for
alarm. A short time before I reached Montana, which was then a
territory, there had been an uprising of some tribes, and a number of
persons living in Bannack and vicinity had been killed. When they were
on the warpath at this particular time, the inhabitants of Bannack had
to barricade themselves in the new brick courthouse and stay for days
to protect themselves from a general slaughter.
I was not afraid of the squaws with their papooses strapped to boards
on their backs, but when the "bucks," as they were called, pressed
their flat noses against the window-panes asking for muck-a-muck
(food), they frightened me so that I could not get over it for hours.
No one else seemed to have any fear of them, even though harrowing
stories were everywhere being told about their treachery and cruelty.
I made my home with Aunt Eliza, my mother's sister, who had married
Dillon B. Mason, a pioneer of Montana, about ten years before. It was
she who had engaged the public school for me and had insisted on my
coming to Montana, from Kentucky, to teach at Bannack.
When the Indians on their foraging expeditions came around to the
back door and windows of the kitchen, it seemed to be my lot to see
them first. When they saw how I was disturbed at their presence, they
would throw their heads back and laugh, and say, "White squaw, heaply
big fool." My uncle and aunt were always on friendly terms with them,
calling them John, Jim, and other familiar names. This pleased them
very much, especially when food was given them; and I knew they would
be around again in a few days, much to my annoyance.
[Illustration: No 61 A GROUP OF BANNOCK WAR CHIEFS POCATELLO IDAHO]
Patrick Bray of Bannack, whose name is mentioned in the St. Paul
expedition, was one of the old pioneers who could tell more "blood and
thunder" stories than anyone else in the community.
[Illustration: No 58 BANNOCK PAPOOSE POCATELLO IDAHO]
In 1870, a party composed of some of the most prominent citizens of
Montana, under the leadership of General Washburn, then the
Surveyor-General of the Territory, went on an exploring expedition to
the Yellowstone regions. The names of some of the members of this
party were household words in the early days of Montana, and familiar
to the writer. Among them were Cornelius Hedges, Nathaniel P.
Langford, the first superintendent of the Park, T. C. Everts, S. T.
Hauser, and Lieut. G. C. Doane. The reader will note the fact that N.
P. Langford was a member of the St. Paul party under the leadership of
Captain Fisk, that landed on Grasshopper Creek, Montana, in the fall
of 1862; and much of the success of the expedition was due to his
heroism. Also much credit is due him for his unabating devotion to the
cause of the republic, and the service he rendered in having the
region set apart as a National Park, March 1st, 1872. Until this time,
there were no restrictions on hunting, trapping, gathering of
specimens, etc., or to fencing in the geysers by private individuals.
THE ACT OF THE DEDICATION OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, approved March
1st, 1872, was as follows:
"BE IT ENACTED BY THE SENATE AND THE HOUSE OF
REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA IN CONGRESS
ASSEMBLED:
"That the tract of land in the Territories of Montana and
Wyoming, lying near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River,
and described as follows, to-wit: Commencing at the junction
of Gardiner River with the Yellowstone River, and running
east to the meridian passing ten miles to the eastward of
the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south
along the said meridian to the parallel of latitude passing
ten miles south of the most southern point of Yellowstone
Lake; thence west along said parallel to the meridian
passing fifteen miles west of the most western point of
Madison Lake; thence north along said meridian to the
latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner
Rivers; thence east to place of beginning--is hereby
reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy or sale
under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and set
apart as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit
and enjoyment of the people; and all persons who shall
locate, settle upon or occupy the same or any part thereof,
except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered
trespassers and removed therefrom.
"Sec. 2. The said public Park shall be under the exclusive
control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it
shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such
rules and regulations as he may deem necessary and proper
for the care and management of the same. Such regulations
shall provide for the preservation from injury or spoliation
of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities or
wonders within said park and their retention in their
natural condition.
"The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for
building purposes, for terms not exceeding ten years, of
small parcels of ground, at such places in said park as
shall require the erection of buildings for the
accommodation of visitors; all the proceeds of said leases,
and all other revenues that may be derived from any source
connected with said park, to be expended under his direction
in the management of the same, and the construction of roads
and bridle paths therein. He shall provide against the
wanton destruction of the fish and game found within said
park, and against their capture or destruction for the
purpose of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all
persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of this
act to be removed therefrom, and generally shall be
authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary
or proper to fully carry out the objects and purpose of this
act."
[Illustration: ARCH AT NORTHERN ENTRANCE TO YELLOWSTONE PARK,
DEDICATED BY THEODORE ROOSEVELT]
With God In the Yellowstone
CHAPTER I
ENROUTE TO THE PARK
On September 2, 1919, I left Zarephath, New Jersey for Denver,
Colorado. Seven days later, accompanied by my brother and his wife,
Rev. Charles W. and Lillian O. Bridwell, I started on a trip to the
Yellowstone National Park. Traffic on the railroads was so heavy out
of Denver that we had some difficulty in getting properly routed, but
finally succeeded. Twenty-four hours later, we reached Cody, Wyoming,
the eastern entrance to the Park. We secured lodging at the Irma
Hotel, founded by William F. Cody (Buffalo Bill), and named for his
favorite daughter.
On the walls of the office and in the halls of this hotel were
splendid paintings, in which the whole history of the famous
frontiersman and Indian fighter was shown. Hours could profitably be
spent studying these pictures, in which one could learn more about the
"Wild West," of former days, than one could get from the average
history. All of the famous Indian chiefs were there, among them, Red
Cloud, Sitting Bull, and Black Bird. Their features were so perfectly
outlined I almost felt I was looking into their faces.
There were so many tourists we were fortunate in getting
accommodations at this place, when arrangements had not been made
ahead. Since I felt the need of rest, and my brother wanted more
information concerning the tour through the Park, we concluded to stay
over for a day. We held an open-air Gospel meeting here, and had the
opportunity of getting acquainted with some of the people whom we told
about the work of the Pillar of Fire organization.
At one time we had about decided to hire an automobile and drive
through the Park, but later, concluded it would be too much of an
undertaking, and made arrangements with the Yellowstone Park
Transportation Company to take us through for about forty-three
dollars each; this included board and lodging at the Yellowstone
Camps.
At 8:15, on the morning of September 12, we boarded one of the big,
yellow touring-cars, with a number of other passengers, and proceeded
on our journey. We had nothing to do with the selection of our
automobile party, but could not have been better suited. About four
miles west of Cody, we entered the SHOSHONE CANYON, three miles from
the first tunnel. In the meantime, we were climbing up the
mountainside so rapidly that it was soon hundreds of feet to the chasm
below.
In a little while we reached the top of the SHOSHONE DAM, to the left,
and here made our first stop. The scenery, while approaching and when
leaving the dam, was the most magnificent I have ever beheld.
Word-pictures fail to give even a slight idea of the depths of the
canyon, the wonderful tints and hues caused by mineral formations and
volcanic action in ages past. The trees on either side were of such
immense height, that I was almost staggered. I was not expecting
anything like this, on the run from Cody to the boundary of the Park;
and surprises awaited me every moment of the time.
While waiting at the dam, I copied from a board the following
dimensions:
[Illustration: SHOSHONE CANYON © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Height, 328 feet,
Thickness at base, 108 feet,
Thickness at top, 10 feet,
Length of crest, 200 feet,
Capacity of reservoir, 456,000 acre-feet,
Area of water surface, 10 square miles,
Maximum width, 4 miles,
Maximum depth, 233 feet,
Length of spillway, 300 feet,
Work begun, 1905,
Work completed, 1910,
Total cost, $1,354,000.
The scenery approaching the dam on both sides, was to me so
unparalleled and inspiring, my heart cried out with the Psalmist:
"Lord, thou hast been our dwelling place in all generations. Before
the mountains were brought forth, or ever thou hadst formed the earth
and the world, even from everlasting to everlasting, thou art God....
For a thousand years in thy sight are but as yesterday when it is
past, and as a watch in the night."
After leaving the dam, we passed slowly through the third, fourth,
fifth, and sixth tunnels. Twelve miles from Cody we had a magnificent
view of the great SHOSHONE RESERVOIR at our left. Then we passed the
Morris Ranch, crossed the bridge over the Shoshone River and turned
to the right. We passed a school house, Hollister's Ranch, Frost and
Richard's Ranch, entered Shoshone National Forest and took the left
side road to Canyon Forest Ranger Station. Two miles farther was the
overhanging Rock Cliff, and other places of less importance between it
and the Holy City at the right.
[Illustration: SHOSHONE DAM © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
About forty-one miles from Cody we came to the Palisades; then
followed Mesa Creek, Good Camp, Elephant Head at the right, Mutilated
Hand, and Eagle Creek. About fifty-three miles from Cody we arrived at
PAHASKA TEPEE LODGE, founded by Buffalo Bill. This station is only two
miles from the boundary of the Park. The yellow cars turn in at the
lodge for luncheon. A stop of about an hour and a half was allowed
here. The house is built of unplaned logs with a large fireplace and
small windows. It has wide porches, provided with easy chairs for the
tourists. While it has a wild, rustic appearance it is homelike.
A little brown bear chained to a tree on the grass plot in front
furnished much amusement for the company by turning somersaults. Three
or four bears had been killed a few days before, somewhere in the
neighborhood of the lodge, and bear meat was served at luncheon.
However, none of the three members of our party ate animal flesh.
We asked that eggs might be substituted, but our request was not
granted, and we had to be content with what we could get. We did not
find the courtesy and interest manifested in our welfare here, on the
part of the managers, that we expected; and we felt that if we had to
meet the same difficulties farther on, it would be a matter of regret
to us that we did not hire a conveyance and make an independent tour.
Fortunately, we found a decided difference in the management at the
camps.
Two young women, who had been residing in the park camps for the
summer, had arranged with the driver of our car to sit on the front
seat with him on the trip from Cody to Yellowstone Camp. However, they
were not on hand in the morning when we were ready to start, and a
person who had later secured the front seat kindly let me have it. I
was grateful for the protection the wind-shield gave me, and of being
able to keep my feet warm near the engine. When the young women
found that they had been left, they hired an automobile and overtook
us. They paid a woman chauffeur, clad in men's clothing, ten dollars
for this trip; and just as we were halting at the dam they drove up,
to the delight of the young man who was driving our car.
[Illustration: THE HOLY CITY © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Nothing was said to me about giving them the front seat, but they made
some remarks in the presence of others that showed plainly what was on
their minds. I kept my place until we reached Pahaska Lodge. In the
meantime "Heine," the driver, as he was called, seemed more or less
excited, and occasionally called to them in the rear seat. He was
running at such speed it was difficult for some of the passengers to
keep their places, especially where there were sharp curves in the
road. He was, no doubt, a skilful driver. He seemed to know that he
was exceeding the speed limit, and shouted out to one of the young
women, "Ruth, are you all there?" A few minutes after this he ran
against the post of a bridge and came near having a wreck, but no one
said anything to him, nor made a protest against his carelessness and
levity when he should have been attending to business.
"Heine" spent the time at Pahaska Lodge in the company of the two
girls; and when the time came to go, he did not wait, as others did,
to load up in front of the building, but took them out to the rear
where the car was standing and put them in the front seat. There was a
protest on the part of all the other passengers, who insisted that he
should give me the seat I had occupied in the morning, but he was
unyielding; and after a half hour's delay and controversy they saw the
utter futility of trying to convince him of his act of injustice, and
proceeded on the journey. However, it served the purpose of quieting
him down and causing him to be more careful in the dangerous places of
the road.
[Illustration: PAHASKA TEPEE LODGE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The woman in charge at the Pahaska Lodge, who had failed to serve us
with eggs, after one of the waitresses had promised them to me, was
chafing under an impeachment of her lack of good will and hospitality
toward some of her patrons; and came boldly out to the car, and in the
presence of every one took sides with the driver, assuring him that
she would stand for the delay. This greatly strengthened him in the
stand he had taken.
It was not very pleasant to ride behind a driver with so much
responsibility, who was carrying on a flirtation. I once saw a
brakeman flirting with a young woman when he should have been
attending to business. Suddenly, he lost his footing, fell between the
cars and was crushed to death. Human nature has been so weakened
through the fall that there is not much dependence to be put in one
where a play by the opposite sex is being made on the heartstrings.
Samson was shorn of his strength by the fair-faced Delilah, and made
to grind without eyes in the mills of the Philistines, after he had
rent a lion, carried off the gates of Gaza, and defied all the enemies
of Israel.
There is too much good-natured toleration of such things, where human
lives are involved. Most people choose the path of least resistance,
when it does not seriously interfere with their rights or comfort, but
not so with our fellow passengers, four of whom were devout members of
the Friends' Church. There was a principle involved, and they did not
hesitate to show on which side they were. We enjoyed the company of
these "Friends" very much. The two gentlemen and their wives were our
companions on the trip from the morning we left Cody till the day we
parted at the Old Faithful Camp at the Upper Geyser Basin.
[Illustration: CHITTENDEN BRIDGE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]