NEW YORK PORTAGES
The strategic value of the "Great Pass" from New York by way of the
Hudson, Lakes George and Champlain, and the Richelieu River has already
been emphasized. The important military points on the route were the
portages from the Hudson to Lake George, from Lake George to Lake
Champlain, the narrows at Crown Point, and the portage from Chambly to
La Prairie on the St. Lawrence. These portages are marked on numerous
early maps; the Hudson-Lake George portage is quite accurately drawn on
Colonel Romer's Map of 1700.[50] From that year on throughout the
century the greater accuracy with which it is mapped illustrates its
growing importance.
One of the most interesting early descriptions of this famous pass is
given on a "Map of part of New York, comprehending the country between
New York and Quebec, the river Connecticut, &c., to shew 'the way from
Albany to Canada ... part by land and part by water;' drawn about
1720."[51] The route is thus described:
Miles
"The Way from albany to Canada described we goe part by
land & part by water
1. To Sprouts or first landing by water :10
2. To fort Ingoldsby by land when [?] rivers low 14
3. To a falles by water first carrying place of 1/2 mile over 17
4. To falles by water 2^d. carrying place of 1/2^m :4
5. to fort niccolson by water 12
this is the 3^d. carrying place now we leave Hudson's river
6. goe to the Camp att wood creeke 16:
From [?] Camp down the Streame.
1 To a falle carying place is 1/4 m over by water 30
2 To Crown point begining of corlaers lake 33
3 To end of a lake begining Chamly river 40 (?)
4 To a rift in [?] River 24
5 to Rocke, a carying place of two Miles over 9
6 to chamly either by land or water 2
from chamly to Montreall by land is 18 miles by water 108 Miles
from Mont royall down the great river of Canada
1 to Sorell at the Mouth of Chamly river 54:
2 to trois river it comes allmost from hudsons bay 36:
3 to Quebec the chief place in Canada 90:"
Another itinerary is given in a "Sketch of the Indian Country on
the north of New York" presented "to the board by Maj^r. gov^r.
Winthrop:[52]
"The Several Distances from Albany to Cubeck Leagues
From Albany to Saragtoqua 12
From Saragtoqua to ye carrying place 6
The Carrying place over 4
From ye Carrying [place to the] Falls 11
From the Falls to [chambly] 12
From Chambly to Sorel 18
From Sorel to S^t. Fransoy 4
from st Fransoy to Troy [Trois] River 9
From Troy River to Champlain 5
From Champlain to Batishan 2
From Batishan to Lovenjere 10
From Lovenjere to Cubeck 12
Colaers Lake long 30
From y^e End of y^e Lake to Chambly 12"
Perhaps the most detailed description of the Pass is given by a former
prisoner among the French who has written the following observations on
a copy of a "French Draught of Lake Champlain & Lake George."[53] The
text shows that the date of the observations is about 1756:
"From Fort Edward to Fort William Henry, on Lake George fifteen Miles
good Road. This Lake is thirty Six Miles Long, and in the Widest part
not quite three, all very good Navigation But for two miles at the
farther End Becomes a Narrow Winding Creek, Very Mountainous on Each
Side particularly the East, the Landing place is within three Miles of
Ticonderoga, where the Lake Begins to Discharge itself into Champlain
over Several Little Falls which Interupt the Navigation for a mile &
half, where every thing is Carried over Land for that Distance, on the
Eastern Side, to a Saw Mill the French have there, from the Mill to
Ticonderoga is a mile & ahalf more, water carriage only dry a very
narrow Creek Overlook'd by Steep Mountains on each Side, this is the
only Communication their is from Lake George to Ticonderogo for
Artillery, and heavy Baggage and is altogither one of the most Difficult
and most Dangerous Passes in North America.
"FRENCH DRAUGHT of Lake Champlain & Lake George with Remarks of an
English prisoner who Return'd from Quebec to Fort Edward, by the River
S^t. Lawrence River Sorrelle & these Lakes touch'd at Fort Chamblay Fort
S^t. Johns Crown point & Ticonderoga.
"This Draught is pretty Correct from Crown point towards Canada But from
Crown point to Fort Edward is not so Exact. however their are no Capital
Errors to Mislead an Army or Party going that way the whole Being
Sufficient to give a good Idea of those important Waters.
"Distances in these Remarks are from the River S^t Lawrence to Fort
William Henry taken from French Authoritys, But from Ticonderogo to Fort
Edward by way of wood Creek from the English.
"From Fort Edward to wood Creek where it Becomes Navigable for Batteaux,
Eleven Miles, from thence to wood Creek Falls twenty eight miles, from
these Falls to Ticonderogo thirty miles uninterrupted Navigation. A few
miles Beyond the Falls is a Branch of wood Creek Call'd South Bay, a
noted Rendevous for the Enemys Scalping parties from Ticonderogo. It was
from this place that General Dieskeau march'd when he Attack'd General
Johnston's Entrenchment on Lake George, it is twenty five miles Distance
from Fort Edward & Sixteen from Fort William Henry.
"Ticonderogo by the French call'd Carrillon is Distance from Fort Edward
by way of Lake George fifty four miles, stands upon that part of
Champlain Call'd by the English wood Creek on the western side it is a
small Square wooden Fort Advantageously Situate & Regularly built, has
two Ravelins, one to the Land, the other, to the water, which with the
Ditch are still Unfinish'd Because of the Rockyness of the Ground, the
Garrison Usually Consists of Four Hundred men & Fort will Contain no
more.
"From Ticonderogo to Fort S^t. Frederick or Crown point Fifteen miles,
good Navigation some Islands & the Creek not above a mile wide, but the
Strait at the point is about three hundred & fifty yards.
"Fort St Frederick is a place of no Strength being Commanded by several
rising Grounds, is Built of Stone very ruinous & irregular, and however
its appearance may be upon paper is by no means Tenable once an army
gets before it. their are several houses on the outside but it cannot
contain so many men within the walls as Ticonderogo.
"From Crown Point to Fort St Johns is one hundred and five [?] miles
all Navigable as from wood Creek Falls, for vessels, the French have two
upon the Lake of Sixty Tons each, but their is water for much Larger a
good many very fine Islands very safe Navigation good Anchoring &
Shelter every where against all Winds the Lake is very unequal in its
breadth but its greatest is seven miles. it abounds with Creeks & Bays
particularly on the East side which give admission to the New England
Colonies as wood Creek & Lake George Do to New York. Notwithstanding the
French Plantations with the names of their owners mark'd out in the
Draught there is not a Single Inhabitant between St Johns & Ticonderoga
from under the Cannon of their Forts a few Straggling houses indeed
there are, which have been deserted since the war.
"Fort St John is built of Pallisados only & two wooden Blockhouses in
the Angles next the water has a few Swivels & is of no use but against
small arms for which it was Originally Design'd. From Fort St Johns to
La Prarie on the South Bank of St Lawrence River is fifteen miles Land
Carriage Only over a Level Country Partly Settled from La Prarie to the
Town & Island of Montreall is Three miles.
"From Fort S^t. Johns Down Sorrell River to Chamblay there is no
Navigation for vessels & a mile from the Fort they are Obliged to
Lighten their Batteaux for a hundred yards in Dry Seasons but from that
to S^t. Etreze [Threse?] half way betwixt both Forts Six miles from Each
is good Batteau Navigation & a fine Landing place on the west side
covered by an Island. here Commence the French Settlements & here is a
Magazine for Supplying the Forts on Lake Champlain.
"From S^t. Etraze to Chamblay Fort the River is very rocky & rapid and
not Navigable But for Light Batteaux when the waters are high so that
they most Commonly Carry for that Distance by Land. from Chamblay to La
prarie Opposite to Montreall is twelve miles good Road in Dry Seasons &
a fine Level Country. Chamblay is a stone Fort built above Sixty years
ago & is not Tenable against Cannon. a Little below the fort, Sorrell
River forms a Beautiful Bason Continues so till it empties itself into
the great River St Lawrence at Sorrell Village forty five miles below
Montreall & one hundred & thirty five above Quibec.
"There are no Indians upon Lake Champlain except a small tribe of the
Abnacques consisting of twenty families who Live at the Bottom of
Massisque Bay, neither does it abound with Bever or such other
Commoditys as Constitute the Indian Commerce therefore it has been
formerly too much Neglected & represented as an Aquisition of Less Value
than more Distance Lakes & Rivers which would Never have been thought of
had it not been for the riches they produced, But this Lake is
Nevertheless by far the most important Inland water in North America,
Because it is the key of the Enemys Country, a Canal leading from New
England, & New York, to the very Bowels of Canada, to Montreall in
particular, the Seat of all their Indian trade & warlike preparations &
which with the country round it is the most fertile part of all that
province.
"Crown point Commands the whole Lake as it is the only Strait there is
upon it, that can in the Least Among Vessels or boats in passing, till
Arrived within a few miles of the French Settlements, therefore the
English when in possession of that pass can land an Army openly or
partys Secretly, in many Different places within a few hours march of
the French Inhabitants, by which means they will have it in their power
not only to Invade in time of War, but make reprisalls upon any other
Occasion whenever they receive the Least Injury from French or Indians
in any part of his Majestys Dominions In North America.
miles
"From Fort Edward to Fort W^m Henry 15
From Fort W^m Henry to Ticonderogo 39
From Ticonderogo to Crown point 15
From Crown point to Fort S^t Johns 105
From Fort S^t Johns to La prarie 15
From La prarie to Montrall 3
---
192
From Fort S^t Johns to Chamblay 12
From Chamblay to La prarie 12-24
From Chamblay to the mouth of the Sorrell River 45
From the mouth of the Sorrell River to Montreall 45
From D^o. to Quebic 135
"Lake Champlain (besides being the only Channel by which the English can
possibly invade Canada from their frontiers) is the only one by which
they can be Invaded from thence, for through the whole Extent of the
South Bank of S^t. Lawrence River, or the great Lakes there is not
another Communication by which an Army can be brought Sufficient to make
any Conquest."
The forts which guarded this historic route have been mentioned, and it
is possible here only to hint of the remarkable story of the ebb and
flow of the war tides which have made the "Grand Pass" perhaps the most
alluring field of study in America. Under the specific title "Saratoga
and the Northern War-path" an entertaining writer has sketched the place
in history occupied by this water thoroughfare and its vital land
connections.[54] The story beginning far back in the seventeenth century
includes De Tracy's expedition to the Mohawk country in 1666; between
1686 and 1695 "numerous war parties passed through _Kay-ad-ros-se-ra_
and Saratoga on their way to and from the hostile settlements on the St.
Lawrence and the Mohawk and lower Hudson." A list of the important
expeditions only would include those of 1689; 1690, under Le Moyne upon
Schenectady; 1690, under General Winthrop; 1691, under Major Schuyler;
and 1693-95. From this time peace reigned until Queen Anne's War in
1709. This year witnessed Winthrop's and Nicholson's campaigns; in 1711
Nicholson again swept up the Hudson on his way toward Quebec, but was
compelled to abandon his plan. From 1713 until 1744 there were
thirty-one years of peace--during which time the French built Forts
Crown Point and Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain. In 1744 the war was again
resumed; "during this short war no less than twenty-seven marauding
parties swept down from Fort Frederick at Crown Point upon the settlers
of what are now Saratoga and Rensselaer counties." On June 17, 1747, in
the night, the new English Fort Clinton at Saratoga was attacked by La
Corne. In the following year it was destroyed by the English because of
its exposed situation, and Albany once more became the most northern
outpost. The peace signed in 1748 lasted until the outbreak of the final
struggle in 1755. Then followed Johnson's, Winslow's, and Abercrombie's
campaigns up the Hudson against Ticonderoga, and Montcalm's swoop upon
Fort William Henry.
In 1777 the "Northern War Path" became again the route of armies--and
here the decisive battle of Saratoga was fought and won. Of this
campaign mention will be made again.
The western war-route to the Lakes was up the Mohawk and down the
Onondaga (Oswego) Rivers. Albany and Oswego were its termini; and the
Oneida carrying-place of one mile (in favorable seasons) between the
Mohawk River and Wood Creek, at Rome, New York, was its key. This famous
route is interestingly described by Mr. Sylvester as follows:[55]
"The first carrying place on the great western route was from the Hudson
at Albany through the pine woods to the Mohawk at Schenectady. This
carrying place avoided the _Ga-ha-oose_ Falls. At the terminus of the
old Indian carrying place on the Hudson, now called Albany, the Dutch,
under Hendrick Christiensen, in 1614, built Fort Nassau on Castle
Island.... In 1617 they built another fort at the mouth of the
Normanskill, at the old Indian _Ta-wa-sent-ha_--'the place of the many
dead.' In 1623 Fort Orange was built by Adriaen Joris, and eighteen
families built their bark huts and spent there the coming winter....
"In the year 1662 Arendt van Curler, and other inhabitants of Fort
Orange, 'went west' across the old carry through the pines to the rich
Mohawk flats and founded a settlement. To this settlement they applied
the old Indian name of Albany, calling it Schenectady. From Albany it
was the new settlement on the Mohawk beyond the pines....
"From Schenectady the western trail ran up the Mohawk to what is now the
city of Rome, where there was another carry of a mile in length, to the
Wood Creek which flows into Oneida Lake. This carrying place, afterward
the site of Fort Stanwix, was called by the Indian _Da-ya-hoo-wa-quat_
(Carrying-place). From it the old trail ran through the Oneida Lake, and
down the Oswego River to Lake Ontario. At the mouth of the Oswego River,
on Lake Ontario, was the old Indian village called _Swa-geh_, the
lake-port of the Iroquois.... Between Schenectady and _Swa-geh_ was a
line of forts built for the protection of the traveling fur-traders, and
as barriers to French and Indian invasion from the valley of the St.
Lawrence. The first of these was at the mouth of the Schohariekill, and
was called Fort Hunter. It was built on the site of old Indian
_Te-hon-de-lo-ga_, the lower castle of the Mohawks. Above Fort Hunter,
near the Indian _Ga-no-jo-hi-e_--'washing the basin'--the middle
Mohawk castle, was Fort Plain. The Indian name of Fonda was
_Ga-na-wa-da_--meaning 'over the rapids.' Of Little Falls, it was
_Ta-la-que-ga_--'small bushes,' and of Herkimer the Indian name was
_Te-uge-ga_, the same as the river. At Herkimer was Hendrick's castle
and Fort Herkimer, near _Ga-ne-ga-ha-ga_, the upper Mohawk castle....
The Indian name for Utica was _Nun-da-da-sis_--meaning 'around the
hill.' At Utica, the Indian trail from the west crossed the river.... A
little above Utica was a small Indian station called _Ole-hisk_--'the
place of nettles.' This is now Oriskony, one of the famous
battle-grounds of the Revolution.... At the mouth of Wood Creek, on the
Oneida Lake, a Royal Blockhouse was built, and at the west end of Oneida
Lake, in 1758, Fort Brewerton was built. The Indian name for Wood Creek
was _Ka-ne-go-dick_; for Oneida Lake was _Ga-no-a-lo-hole_--'head on a
pole.' For Syracuse the Indian name was _Na-ta-dunk_, meaning 'pine-tree
broken with top hanging down,' and the Indian name of Fort Brewerton was
_Ga-do-quat_."
The Oneida portage--as the carrying place between the Mohawk and Wood
Creek is known in history--was guarded at its Mohawk terminus as early
as 1732 by the erection of Fort Williams, and at the Wood Creek terminus
as early as 1737 by Fort Bull. Throughout the century of conflict
between French and English the Oneida portage route was of utmost
importance. In the crucial years between 1755 and 1759 it was especially
important. The route is thus described in a contemporaneous account:
"Oswego, along the accustomed route, is computed to be about 300 miles
west from Albany. The first sixteen, to the village of Schenectady, is
land carriage, in a good waggon road. From thence to the Little Falls in
the Mohawk River, at sixty five miles distance, the battoes are set
against a rapid stream; which too, in dry seasons, is so shallow, that
the men are frequently obliged to turn out, and draw their craft over
the rifts with inconceivable labour. At the Little Falls, the portage
exceeds not a mile: the ground being marshy will admit of no
wheel-carriage, and therefore the Germans who reside here, transport the
battoes in sleds, which they keep for that purpose. The same conveyance
is used at the Great Carrying-Place, sixty miles beyond the Little
Falls; all the way to which the current is still adverse, and extremely
swift. The portage here is longer or shorter, according to the dryness
or wetness of the seasons. In the last summer months, when rains are
not infrequent, it is usually six or eight miles across. Taking water
again, we enter a narrow rivulet, called the Wood-creek, which leads
into the Oneida Lake, distant forty miles. This stream, tho' favorable,
being shallow, and its banks covered with thick woods, was at this time
much obstructed with old logs and fallen trees. The Oneida Lake
stretches from east to west about thirty miles, and in calm weather is
passed with great facility. At its western extremity opens the Onondaga
River, leading down to Oswego, situated at its entrance on the south
side of the Lake Ontario. Extremely difficult and hazardous is the
passage thro' this river, as it abounds with rifts and rocks; and the
current flowing with surprising rapidity. The principal obstruction is
twelve miles short of Oswego, and is a fall of about eleven feet
perpendicular. The portage here is by land, not exceeding forty yards,
before they launch for the last time."[56]
[Illustration: THE OLD ONEIDA PORTAGE IN 1756 (ROME, NEW YORK)
(_From the Original in the British Museum_)]
Far-famed Fort Stanwix arose near the site of Fort Williams in 1758
and Fort Wood Creek (on the site of Fort Bull) and Fort Newport were
built about the same time or a little earlier. In the British Museum may
be seen a colored "plan of the forts at the Onoida, or great carrying
place, in the province of New York in America," built by Major-General
Shirley, commander-in-chief in North America, and destroyed by
Major-General Webb, August 31, 1756, before they were finished. This map
must ever be of entrancing interest to the student who views it
knowingly. The strategic nature of this little plot of ground was
recognized, a century or so ago, by a continent--indeed by a world. In
the Old French War there was not, perhaps, so important a spot on the
continent as this, the path from the Hudson to Lake George alone
excepted. And when it is recalled that the Oneida portage led to the
West--to the Lakes and the Ohio Basin--the Oneida path, taken throughout
the years, can but be considered of preëminent importance, commercially.
A visit to thriving little Rome and a study of the country roundabout
will prove of appealing interest. Here, within cannon shot, stood half
a dozen forts; here, in the very center of Rome is the wide straight
roadway over which millions of pioneers moved to their conquest of the
West; here is the junction of the Black River and the Erie Canal, which,
"conceived by the genius, and achieved by the energy of De Witt Clinton,
was, during the second quarter of this [nineteenth] century, the most
potent influence of American progress and civilization." And, in its
turn, here lie the gleaming rails of the New York Central--and the
"Empire" has covered the canal boat with dust.
The conditions here make it almost possible to say, "All roads lead to
Rome, New York." From one and the same point of observation it is
possible to see the junction of the Erie and Black River Canals, the
portage path from the Mohawk to Wood Creek, the New York Central
Railway, and the terminus of the Utica and Mohawk Valley Electric
Railway. Two canals, a highway, a railway, and an electric line
converging within an air-rifle shot would not be found in a town of only
a few thousand inhabitants were it not for some extraordinary
geographical reason.
In the olden days the adage was very true indeed, though Rome was not
the old-time name. It is deemed a pity that Stanwix could not have been
preserved as the name of this historic site, but it is said the
revulsion against everything English during and after the Revolution
made the retention of that fine historic name impossible. During the
Revolutionary War the name of Fort Stanwix was changed to Fort Schuyler;
but that name, with all its heritage of nobility and patriotism, was not
retained, and "Fort" Schuyler has been dropped to make room for "Fort"
Stanwix, which is exceedingly contradictory. When the deluge of
classical names passed over central New York--Utica, Manlius, Troy,
Syracuse, Rochester, etc.--that of Rome was deposited here.
A square block in the center of Rome, higher than the surrounding land,
is the site of Forts Stanwix and Schuyler. It is covered with dwellings
on all sides, but at each of the corner bastions is planted a cannon
bearing a bronze tablet reading: "A Fort which never surrendered.
Defended August 1777 by Col. Peter Ganseboort & Lieut. Col. Marinus
Willett. Here the Stars & Stripes were first unfurled in battle. Erected
1758."
The country about Rome is very level, the declension in any direction
being slight; water from one field is said to flow into the Gulf of the
St. Lawrence and into New York Bay. The explorer on the Oneida portage
will find it difficult to identify the historic sites. The Erie canals
have completely drained the country, and the last course is, in part, in
the very bed of Wood Creek--the stream to which the portage from the
Mohawk led. The nearest point to Wood Creek is distant about one mile
from Rome; by the old route it was crossed again two miles further west.
Of course the length of portage between the Mohawk and Wood Creek
depended upon the stage of water in the latter. The portage for canoes
was probably never more than the mile; in later days, when Fort Oswego
was erected and supplies were sent thither by batteaux from Albany, a
three and even six-mile portage was necessary in order to reach water
that would float the heavy freight. At either end of the three-mile
portage stood Fort Williams, on the Mohawk, and Fort Bull, on Wood
Creek. The longer portage was, a little later, artificially shortened by
damming the waters of Wood Creek. By the appended map it will be seen
that in 1756 Fort Newport was being built at the end of the one-mile
portage. The explorer of today will note in the western extremity of
Rome the old basin of Wood Creek where the water was held back by dam
and floodgate. The end of this basin, near where the road crosses Wood
Creek, was the site of old Fort Newport. On the ruins of Fort
Bull--which was destroyed in 1756 by a French raid from Canada--was
erected Fort Wood Creek in 1758, distant, as the map shows, three miles
from Fort Newport.
Fort Stanwix, New Fort, Fort Williams, Fort Newport, Fort Bull, and Fort
Wood Creek were all erected within twenty-five years, and within three
or four miles of each other. Nothing could suggest more plainly the
strategic nature of this roadway on the backbone of New York. Of them
all, the remains of Fort Wood Creek alone are visible, save the
embankment of Fort Stanwix. Here, three miles out from Rome, where the
old portage path used to run, beside the little creek now only a shadow
of the oldtime stream, is the interesting star-shaped ruin of Fort Wood
Creek, surrounded by a moat still five feet deep. The southern side, as
the map shows, (K), was not fortified strongly like the others, as the
water of the creek protected it. The dam and floodgate were just beyond
the southwestern bastion and the old embankment of the dam can still be
traced. The broad pond formed by the dammed water is clearly visible in
outline; the present stream runs near the center of it. It was probably
seldom in the olden days that the creek was not navigable here; the dam
doubtless made it so, for a large part of the year, from Fort Newport
downwards. Yet the narrative just quoted affirms that the portage was
sometimes "six or eight miles across" in unusually dry seasons. This was
certainly prior to the erection of the dams and floodgates, which "saved
so much land carriage" according to the map. In dry seasons, the map
assures us, the floodgates saved a portage of seven miles to Canada
Creek. This is evidently the "six or eight miles" portage mentioned by
the narrative.
The British campaign of 1777 was a spectacular event which covered the
three great valleys which converge from the north, south, and west upon
Albany. A bird's-eye view of this campaign emphasizes as it is almost
impossible to do otherwise the strategic value of portage paths. From
the north, Burgoyne comes up Lake Champlain and Lake George and across
the portage to the Hudson, and starts down the valley; to meet him,
General Clinton leaves New York and ascends the Hudson toward Albany.
From Oswego St. Leger starts up the Onondaga (Oswego) River toward the
Oneida carrying place and Albany--where the three armies are to form a
union for the final overthrow of the revolution. St. Leger never got
fairly over the Oneida portage; he could not carry Fort Schuyler which
guarded it, and at Herkimer he was completely routed. Burgoyne crossed
safely the portage to the Hudson, but had hardly done more when Gates
was upon him and Saratoga was the early turning point of the war. To all
intents and purposes the great campaign was utterly thwarted because the
Americans successfully held the strategic keys of the continent--the
Lake George-Hudson and the Oneida carrying places.