obtained on the right over the sea towards Nice, while on the other hand
glimpses occur between the olive groves and up the valleys to the
mountains beyond. The first of these openings, the valley of the Brague,
shews the interesting old town of Biot in the distance, set as usual on
a rocky height. A little further on the tower of the castle of
Villeneuve-Loubet rises above the river Loup, and immediately thereafter
the town of Cagnes bursts suddenly upon the view. This town consists as
usual of a series of houses clustering in terraces round the sides of a
detached and precipitous hill, crowned with an ancient castle on its
summit. The station of Vence-Cagnes is easily reached by railway either
from the direction of Nice or Cannes, and from it several pleasant
excursions may be made to the places above referred to, which have just
been passed, and also to the ancient towns of St Paul-du-Var and Vence,
already mentioned.
CAGNES is a place of some industry, being the point of export for the
products of the valleys of the Loup, the Malvan, and the Cagne. On
leaving the railway station and approaching the town, the lower part of
the hill on which it stands is seen to be richly clad with the dark
green foliage of the orange trees, enlivened with their golden fruit,
planted in stone-built terraces rising steeply one over the other up to
the walls of the town.
[Illustration: FIG. 209. CASTLE OF CAGNES (_from the S._)]
Entering at the south end of the hill a steep and narrow street leads
straight up to the top at the north end, where stands the old castle of
the Grimaldis (Fig. 209). This is evidently an ancient structure, having
the bold machicolated parapet of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.
But it has been greatly altered in the seventeenth century, when large
windows have been opened in the walls, the machicolations being in
numerous places cut away to receive them (Fig. 210); while at the
entrance front a wide outer staircase with double ramp and marble
balustrade has been introduced leading up to a principal entrance
doorway on the first floor. From this access is obtained to a small
inner courtyard surrounded with Renaissance columns forming a staircase
and corridor above of two storys in height, which, adorned as it is
with beautiful plants by the present proprietor, has a peculiarly
pleasing effect. Some of the apartments are finely decorated. That of
the “Belle Cheminée” has a sculptured marble fireplace and a ceiling
painted with the fall of Phaeton, said to be by Carlowe. From the
platform lying to the north of the château a magnificent view is
obtained to the northward up the valley of the Malvan towards St Paul
and Vence, and the lofty precipices of St Jeannot beyond, backed to the
right with the snowy ridges of the distant Alps.
[Illustration: FIG. 210. CASTLE OF CAGNES (_from the N.E._)]
The nearest place of prominence from Cagnes is the Castle of
VILLENEUVE-LOUBET--about two miles to the north-west. This castle has
been modernised and nearly rebuilt, but enough of the original work
remains to render a visit very interesting. On nearing it, the edifice
(Fig. 211) is seen to consist of a central castle strengthened with four
towers at the angles, and surmounted by a lofty, quaint, and
Moorish-looking watch-tower, the whole being enclosed with a strong wall
of enceinte, defended with round towers at the angles (Fig. 212),
provided with large port-holes for guns, and separated from the
surrounding county by a deep ditch. The entrance gateway consists of an
iron grating, guarded by two round towers, and furnished with a
drawbridge over the moat. The round towers and walls of enceinte are by
no means modern; they probably belong to the sixteenth century, but they
have been shorn of their proud battlements, and thus present a very
squat and subdued appearance.
[Illustration: FIG. 211. CASTLE OF VILLENEUVE-LOUBET (_from the N.W._)]
The central castle is in part much more ancient, but also for the most
part greatly altered and modernised. The
[Illustration: FIG. 212. CASTLE OF VILLENEUVE-LOUBET (_from the S.E._)]
original plan was probably not dissimilar to the existing one,
comprising a central courtyard with buildings surrounding it. The
exterior walls are modern, but those of the interior of the courtyard
are partly ancient, although altered. They are built with the
rough-faced ashlar of the thirteenth century, and contain some decayed
coats of arms on which may still be traced the lances of the Villeneuves
and the star of Les Baux. Externally, the east face (Fig. 212) presents
two noteworthy features in the apse of the chapel and the tall
watch-tower. The chapel, although now converted into apartments, still
retains the outlines and buttresses of an apse which seems to belong to
the fifteenth century. The watch-tower is one of the most perfect
examples of those characteristic features of the Maritime Alps. It is of
the same nature as the keep towers we have met with at Cannes, Grasse,
and Antibes, having the same rough ashlar facing, but instead of being
square on plan like them, it has the eastern side projected in the form
of a sharp angle (like the tower of La Trinité in the same locality, to
be described immediately, and of which a plan is given). The access to
the top is by a narrow wheel-stair on the side next the quadrangle. The
important point about the tower is that it preserves its battlemented
top almost unaltered. It is carried up to the height of about 90 feet,
and near the summit has several courses of a dark-coloured stone, which
give it a Moorish or Italian character. These may at one time have been
enriched with carving, of which one fancies some traces may still be
observed, but they are so completely weather-worn that no forms can be
distinguished. The level platform on the top is defended with a simple
crenellated parapet without machicolations. From this lofty station a
wide outlook could be kept over sea and land.
This castle and tower belonged in the thirteenth century to Romée de
Villeneuve, the chief of that powerful family and the guardian of
Beatrix, daughter of Raymond Béranger IV., the last of the Counts of
Provence of that line. It was through the marriage with the heiress
Beatrix that Charles of Anjou, the brother of St Louis, succeeded to the
title and estates of the Count of Provence. The estate was sold at a
later period to the Lascares of Ventimiglia, and is now the property of
the Count of la Panisse-Pacy. In 1538 this castle entertained an
illustrious guest in the person of Francis I., who stayed here while
Pope Paul III. carried on negotiations between him and Charles V. The
latter had landed at Villefranche in order to meet the French king; but
so great was the antipathy and distrust of the two monarchs for each
other, that they could not be brought to encounter a personal interview.
These negotiations ended in the signature, by Francis in the Castle of
Villeneuve-Loubet, of the Treaty of Nice (_See_ “The Maritime Alps and
their Sea Board.”)
[Illustration: FIG. 213. TOWER OF LA TRINITÉ (_Plan_).]
From the top of Romée de Villeneuve’s tower another similar tower is
observed rising above the pine wood about a mile up the valley to the
north-west. To reach it we descend from the castle so as to gain the
bridge across the Loup, and in doing so the steep streets of the old
town of Villeneuve, terraced in tiers on the slope of the
[Illustration: FIG. 214. TOWER OF LA TRINITÉ (_from the Chapel_).]
hill, are traversed, and the old church on its fine platform is passed
on the left. The road up the valley is easy and agreeable, but the
ascent of the conical hill, the summit of which is crowned with the
tower of LA TRINITÉ, is no light work. From a distance this tower looks
like a lofty pedestal erected to support the colossal statue of the
Virgin and child which now surmounts it. But on closer inspection it is
found to be a remarkable example of a keep, defended with that
accumulation of obstacles with which the old builders used to block up
the access to their strongholds. After the steep hillside has been
climbed, one finds himself at the base of the pointed rock on which the
keep is set (Fig. 213). From here a sloping path leads up to the ruins
of the chapel, of which only the vestiges of wall shewn in the sketch
(Fig. 214), mingled with the scattered fragments of the font and other
relics, now remain.
The ruins of a strong gateway in the outer walls which closed the access
are passed just before reaching the chapel, and a lower bastioned
terrace is continued round the northern part of the eminence at this
level.
From the chapel, when one turns his eyes upwards to the tower (as in
Fig. 214), he discovers such a series of winding stairs interrupted at
frequent intervals with walls and gateways as must certainly have
rendered a hostile approach in that direction impracticable, while
perpendicular rocks and lofty walls made the access equally hopeless on
the other sides. Besides this, on the side next the hill, which was
perhaps the least invulnerable point, stands the keep (Fig. 215),
strengthened with a projecting beak of similar form to that of the tower
of Romée de Villeneuve. The lower story is original, and contained the
doorway at the level of the top of the rock. This inaccessible point, on
which there is a small platform, was probably reached by a rude stair
cut in the rock (as indicated on the plan) and was defended with
outworks, the approach to which was overlooked from the upper platform.
The doorway, it will be observed, is placed on the opposite side of the
tower from the platform, at a point where the foothold is narrow, and
the door therefore all the more secure.
The upper portion of the tower dates from 1863, when, as the following
inscription, which is carved on a marble slab let into the wall,
announces, the old tower was reconstructed by the Comte and Comtesse de
la Panisse-Pacy, and dedicated to the blessed Virgin:--
HOC ANTIQUUM CASTELLUM
VULGO DICTUM LA TRINITÉ
HENRICUS DE MARCK TRIPOLI
COMES DE PANISSE-PASSIS
ET MARIA THERESA
DE ROBIN DE BARBENTANE
EJUS UXOR INSTAURAVERUNT
BEATÆQUE MARIAE VIRGINI
IMMACULATAE TESTIMONIUM
FIDEI AC PIETATIS
DEDICAVERUNT ANNO DOMINI
MDCCCLXIII.
The tower alone has been restored in the manner shewn by the sketches;
all the other portions remain undisturbed in their ruins. The rooms in
the tower are only 10 ft. 6 in. long by 7 ft. wide, and there is no
indication of any other habitation connected with the fort.
The place has all the appearance of a typical robber’s stronghold, and,
as James V. said of a similar Scottish keep, “He that built it was a
thief in his heart.” According to tradition, La Trinité was originally a
keep of the Templars. That order had extensive possessions in this part
of Provence, and they may have erected this tower as a post for watching
and giving notice of the approach of an enemy. After the suppression of
the order La Trinité passed into the possession of the Mathurins or
Redfriars. They were also called the Order of the Trinity, and their
special duty was to succour prisoners. The name of the tower may
possibly have been derived from them. The chapel is 29 ft. long by 14
ft. wide, and the raised step at the east end is still traceable. The
[Illustration: FIG. 215. TOWER OF LA TRINITÉ (_from the S.W._)]
walls have been about 8 ft. 6 in. high to the plain ovalo forming the
string course from which sprung the semi-circular barrel vault of the
roof. From the upper platform of the fortress a splendid view is
obtained (Fig. 215), especially to the northwards, comprising St
Paul-du-Var in the middle distance, and Vence backed by the towering
precipices of St Jeannet. Beneath these stood the powerful Commandery of
the Templars at St Martin (to be afterwards described), from which a
signal at their watch-tower of La Trinité would be easily observed.
[Illustration: FIG. 216. BIOT.]
From La Trinité a rough footpath leads across the pine-clad hills to
BIOT, a distance of about two and a half miles as the crow flies, but
about an hour’s walk over the heath-covered heights, and through the
deep ravines which have to be traversed. Some extensive quarries are
passed on the way at Les Aspres. After a hot tramp over these rocky and
barren hills, it is refreshing to reach the fertile and cultivated
valley of the Brague with its steep and terraced banks richly clad with
olive and orange trees. A very steep descent leads to the bottom of the
valley, from which the walls and towers of Biot are seen rising on the
crest of the hill above (Fig. 216). This is one of the most primitive
old towns in the district. A very circuitous post road has now been
constructed up to it, but the old accesses by long flights of wide
steps, on which the peasants and their mules are constantly ascending
and descending, are still preserved, and are in their way amongst the
most picturesque streets in the Riviera. Climbing patiently up flight
after flight, and winding round the narrow streets, we at length reach
the highest point, on which stands the church. The following inscription
is carved in the interior wall:--“Hanc Ecclesiam consecravit Illus,
primus et reveredismus Inxpo P.D.D. Isnædus D. Grassa Episcopus Grassen,
1472 [Illustration: round symbol] DIE 19.
JANU.”
thus shewing that the church was consecrated by the bishop of Grasse at
the above date. Some of the work corresponds with that period, _e.g._,
the doorway in the west end (Fig. 217). But the south doorway (Fig. 217)
has an earlier character. The exterior is all altered, and the interior
has also been modernised in a very extraordinary manner, but some traces
of the original building are still observable. Biot belonged to the
Templars in 1247, and afterwards to the knights of Malta. In 1470 the
bishop of Grasse brought hither forty-eight Genoese families, probably
to help to re-people the town after the plague or some destructive
assault of the Corsairs. This was evidently the occasion on which the
bishop re-consecrated the church, which then no doubt required to
[Illustration: FIG. 217. CHURCH OF BIOT.]
be to a great extent rebuilt. But some of it bears the signs of having
been erected at an earlier date by the Templars. The plan (Fig. 218) is
very unusual. A simple oblong divided into three aisles with three
terminal apses such as we see here is common enough, but the plain round
columns which separated the nave and aisles are very uncommon. The bases
and caps are of a simple and early character (Fig. 219). The pillars are
too light to have been intended to carry vaulting, and the original
church would thus seem to have had a row of plain arches on each side,
with perhaps a clerestory wall above supporting a wooden roof. The
building would thus have originally the characteristics of a primitive
basilica, somewhat like San Miniato at Florence (Fig. 33, p. 101). But
this design has now been ingeniously altered and destroyed, and the
whole character of the interior degraded from being one of the most
interesting churches of Provence into a commonplace Renaissance chapel.
By means of stucco the old round pillars have been converted on the side
next the nave into flat
[Illustration: FIG. 218. PLAN OF CHURCH OF BIOT.]
pilasters which are carried up and finished with Ionic caps, supporting
an entablature which runs along each side of the church above the old
arches. A groined vault in plaster springing from the top of the cornice
is
[Illustration: FIG. 219. CHURCH OF BIOT.]
thrown across the nave. The old pillars with their caps and bases have,
however, been allowed to remain unchanged on the side next the aisles,
where their archaic forms contrast strikingly with the modern plaster
work on the other side. An attempt has been made to Italianise the apse
also, but the pilasters and entablature fit lamely into the old apse. A
wide flight of steps at the west end leads _down_ from the doorway into
the church, and has a rather peculiar effect. This no doubt arose from
the irregularity of the site. To the west of the church lies the public
_place_, surrounded with plain houses, all arcaded on the ground floor,
and presenting a pleasing example of that picturesque feature of the
towns of the Riviera. A walk of about three miles through the olive
gardens of the valley of the Brague leads to the Antibes Railway
station. Biot may of course be visited directly from the latter; there
is a good carriage road.
One of the most delightful excursions from Cagnes is that to ST
PAUL-DU-VAR, and VENCE, two of the most interesting old towns of the
Riviera. The distance to St Paul is from three to four miles, and to
Vence two to three miles further. This may be accomplished either by
driving or on foot. A carriage may be hired near the Cagnes Railway
Station. The route in driving goes by a rather circuituous road round
the west side of the valley of the Malvan, passing within a short
distance of the castle of Villeneuve-Loubet. The most direct road is
either along the base of the hill on which Cagnes stands, or through the
town. For the pedestrian the latter is by far the most agreeable.
Starting from the terrace of the old castle (already described), a rough
footpath is followed along the ridge which separates the valley of the
Malvan from that of the Cagne, and affords a delightful prospect of
both. The rich colour of the russet leaves of the forest trees, mingled
with the dark green of the pines and the grey tint of the olives, gives
a special charm to the walk. Looking northwards the towns of La Gaude
and St Jeannet stand out prominently on their rocky heights against the
lofty and precipitous mountains immediately behind them; while in the
distance the white peaks of the Maritime Alps close the valley of the
Var. To the south there is a splendid view of Cagnes with the
Mediterranean on the horizon. After half an hour’s walk the footpath
joins the main road
[Illustration: FIG. 220. ST PAUL-DU-VAR (_from the E._)]
opposite St Paul, and near the point where the mule path branches off to
descend to the Malvan, before again ascending by a rough and steep track
to the town. From the main road a fine view is obtained of St Paul (Fig.
220), surrounded with its massive walls, and standing on a detached
promontory, with steep terraced slopes descending to the river. Other
pleasing and varied prospects of the town and valley occur at intervals
amongst the ancient olives in following the above footpath (Fig. 221).
About half way up the path on the side next the town an outwork on a
detached peak is passed, then a ruined fortification bars the road, and
finally the ancient gateway and barbican, and the cemetery just outside
the walls, are reached, and the main street of the town, which is but a
narrow lane, is before us. The architectural interest of the place is at
once apparent. On every hand are evidences of genuine ancient and
[Illustration: FIG. 221. ST PAUL-DU-VAR (_from the W._)]
unaltered work. The doorways (Fig. 222) are of old and varied forms,
almost every one having a panelled lintel, supported by corbels, many of
the former containing carved shields and ornaments, and the latter being
enriched with leaves and scrolls. Most of these doorways are of the
beginning of the sixteenth century, and indicate early Renaissance work.
Others again are carved and moulded with the double curvature of the
late Gothic style, and a few shew marks of a simpler and earlier design
(Figs. 223 and 224). The windows also contain many specimens of Gothic
shafts and mullions, but they are much more altered than the doorways.
Even the ancient woodwork of the latter is in many instances retained,
and the unpainted oak or walnut give, in addition to the picturesque and
fanciful designs, a rich and antique character. One of the most
interesting points connected with the main, and almost the only street
in the town, is the preservation of its
[Illustration: FIG. 222. DETAILS FROM ST PAUL-DU-VAR.]
ancient shops. At almost every step one meets with the wide arch which
contained both the door and window of the shop, the former being cut
down to the door step, while the latter had the stonework built so as to
form a sill about 2 feet high, on which the goods were exhibited. These
sills are sometimes projected and moulded on the edge. At St Paul many
of the shop fronts are now built up, but several are still in use (Fig.
223), and when piled up with their complex store of vegetables and
fruits, mixed with the quaint and richly coloured jars of the country,
present very tempting subjects for the artist. The street floor
[Illustration: FIG. 223. OLD SHOPS AND HOUSES, ST PAUL-DU-VAR.]
of the houses adjoining the north gateway (Fig. 226) is amongst the
oldest and least altered examples. Numerous narrow lanes branch off the
main street and descend by steps and arcades to the roads which run
round the walls. In other cases arches are thrown across the street, and
picturesque effects are thus produced (Figs. 225 and 227). Most of the
buildings in the main street date from the time of Francis I. After the
destructive invasion of Provence by Charles V., Francis found that his
frontier in this quarter was insufficiently protected, and employed an
engineer from Arles called Mandon to inspect the locality and fix on the
best site for a fortress. Mandon chose the isolated hill on which stood
the ancient town of St Paul as the best suited for this purpose; and it
was accordingly fortified and surrounded with the walls and bastions
which still subsist almost in their entirety. St Paul was thus raised
into a place of some importance and security, and became the residence
of a governor and several families of distinction. This no doubt led to
the improvement of the architecture of which we have seen so many
examples. Of the town houses of the governor and nobility some specimens
still remain--one well preserved mansion of a somewhat later period is
seen in sketch, Fig 225, and relics of others are also to be found,
though in a sadly degraded and dilapidated state.
In the Maison Suraire (formerly Du Port), remains of ancient
magnificence still exist in two richly decorated mantelpieces, of which
Fig. 228 is one.
The original staircase of this house is also still in use; its
richly-carved and ornamental balustrade of marble (Fig. 229) forming a
strange contrast with its present humble position as an access to
peasants’ houses. The mode of junction of the pedestals at the turn of
the staircase by placing a boldly cut lion rampant between them is novel
and effective.
[Illustration: FIG. 224. SIDE STREET, ST PAUL-DU-VAR.]
This house stands in the very diminutive and only little “place” in the
town, where also is the fountain, and whence branches off the way to the
church, which stands on the highest point of the site. The main street,
and all the side alleys, are but continuations of the mule paths of the
country, interrupted here and there with steps, and all too narrow to
admit a cart or carriage of any kind. They are thus often so completely
swept by the loads of firewood and brushwood on the mules’ backs, that
passengers have to seek shelter in the recesses of the doorways. The
walks round the walls are in part wider, and the small gardens of the
houses sloping down to them, with the dark foliage and golden fruit of
their orange groves, form a fine foreground to the lovely prospects
visible in every direction.
[Illustration: FIG. 225. MAIN STREET, ST PAUL-DU-VAR.]
The gateway (Fig. 230) at the entrance to the town from the north has an
older character than the fortifications of Mandon. This gateway seems to
have formed the ancient entrance through a square tower placed for
defence on the neck of land which joins the promontory to the mainland.
It presents the same character as the square gate towers of Avignon,
having a plain pointed archway and portcullis groove on the exterior,
defended by a machicolated parapet above, the interior of the tower
being left open towards the town, so that, if captured, it could not be
turned to account against it (_see_ Fig. 226).
[Illustration: FIG. 226. INTERIOR OF N. GATEWAY, ST PAUL-DU-VAR.]
This tower has been incorporated by Mandon in his works, and is
strengthened externally by a bastion with another portcullis, and a
narrow passage commanded from above.
[Illustration: FIG. 227. MAIN STREET IN ST PAUL-DU-VAR.]