Some of the towers of the Visigoths still remain, and rise considerably

above the curtains. These, like the towers of the Romans, are circular

to the exterior and square next the city, on which side they are also

open, both for the purpose of admitting of munitions being easily

hoisted up to them from below, and also to render them useless in the

hands of an enemy as against the town. Externally they are furnished

with embrasures at the top, which were provided with a swinging wooden

shutter for defence, to support the pivots of which stone hooks are

inserted at the eaves. The top is covered with a pointed roof (_see_

Fig. 110).

The towers were detached from the curtains by

[Illustration: FIG. 110. CARCASSONNE--TOWERS AND CASTLE.]

a pit or gap in the parapet walk where it adjoined them, so that each

tower might form a separate post, and be defended independently. The

lower part of the walls, being below the interior level of the ground,

was peculiarly liable to be attacked by mining and battering, against

which the defenders could make no direct resistance. The besiegers, as

they knocked out parts of the wall, supported the superstructure in a

temporary manner with wooden props, and when they had completed their

mining operations, they set fire to the props, and the wall above fell

and formed a breach.

Like the Roman permanent camps, these fortified cities had a castle or

citadel, which was almost invariably placed on the highest point of the

site, and adjoined the enceinte so as to command and defend the town,

and, at the same time, be in a position to receive supplies and

reinforcements from without. Within the castle, again, was a still

further security in the donjon, or redoubt, which was detached from the

other works, and often had a ditch and an enclosing wall, or _chemise_,

of its own, and could be held after all the other defences had

succumbed. Such walls as those of the Visigoths at Carcassonne were

sufficient to resist the means of attack employed from the fifth to the

eleventh century. At that period of revival a great improvement took

place all round, and there can be no doubt that the early Crusaders

learned much in the East with regard to the science of attack and

defence of strongholds. In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, towers

like those of the Normans were erected, which depended for their

security on the natural strength of the site, and the great height and

thickness of the walls--their height protecting them against assault by

scaling, and their mass and position against the mine and battering ram.

They were further strengthened with outer walls and ditches.

[Illustration: FIG. 111. CARCASSONNE--OUTER AND INNER WALLS, N. SIDE.]

A very interesting description, illustrative of the manner of carrying

on and resisting siege operations, is quoted by Viollet-le-Duc from a

report rendered by Guillaume des Ormes, Seneschal of Carcassonne, to

Queen Blanche, on the raising of the siege of that town by Trenceval in

1240. The report details how the besiegers and defenders battered one

another with mongonneaux; how they mined and countermined; how part of

the wall was sapped, and a breach formed, inside of which the defenders

raised a wooden _bretêche_, crowned with hoards, and armed with archers.

On St Louis’ return from his first crusade, he was desirous to

strengthen his position in the newly-acquired dominions of the Count of

Toulouse. He, therefore, resolved to make a strong citadel of

Carcassonne. For this purpose the houses in the suburbs were cleared

away, and a new town, or bastide, was established, as above mentioned,

for the ejected inhabitants on the opposite side of the river, where the

new town now stands.

Under King Louis the outer enceinte of Carcassonne was rebuilt (Fig.

111). Between this and the inner wall of enceinte a space is left,

called the “lices,” in which troops can circulate, and patrols and

sentries move in safety. The ground of the “lices” is nearly on the same

level as the present parapet of the outer wall, while the wall is about

thirty feet above the soil outside. The towers are built with an open

side next the “lices,” so that, even if taken by the enemy, they could

not be held by him against the inner walls. St Louis also erected an

immense barbican, or round redoubt, at the base of the hill, between

Carcassonne and the Aude, so as to command the river, and allow of

sorties being made on the level ground adjoining it.

Philippe le Hardi continued the works of the fortifications

[Illustration: FIG. 112. CARCASSONNE--PORTE NARBONNAISE.]

till his death in 1285, his operations being chiefly on the east and

south sides.

There are two principal gateways in the walls, the Porte de l’Aude and

the PORTE NARBONNAISE (Fig. 112), both strongly defended with towers and

other works. There are also six posterns, all placed in angles so as to

be masked by the towers, and generally several feet above the level of

the ground. These were useful for relieving sentries, and for the

movement of troops in the “lices.” Opposite some of the posterns the

outer walls are provided with large barbicans (Fig. 113), in which

soldiers might be concentrated for sorties. As above mentioned, the

great circular barbican at the base of the hill was also employed for

this purpose. Nothing could give a better idea of the multiplicity and

complication of the means of defence then employed than the mode of

connection between this barbican and the castle. The rampart or passage

which led to the castle above was especially well fortified. It was

steep, and the ascent was interrupted with several cross walls with

doors, approached by steps which were all commanded from the walls and

curtains above, and from a great tower at the top, all armed with

_bretêches_ or hoards. Towards the upper end the passage turned to the

right, and was flanked by the defences above. A small gate was then

reached, within which the passage doubled back again to the left, and

was stopped by another gate, beyond which it entered a narrow covered

way of three storys in height, each commanding the one below by means of

machicolations or apertures in the floor, so that, if the first floor

was gained, the assailant found himself in a trap, and was battered from

above. If all these defences were surmounted, the besieger was only the

length of the “lices,” and had still above him the lofty walls and

towers of the castle, and the strongly-fortified

[Illustration: FIG. 113. CARCASSONNE--WESTERN WALLS AND BARBICAN.]

postern, with its movable bridge, double machicolations, loop-holes,

portcullis, and gates. Even within this, the entrance to the castle was

impeded by a sloping and turning passage, furnished with numerous doors,

and rising for twenty-three feet before the level of the courtyard was

reached.

Such defences were almost impregnable, and are a good illustration of

the intricacy of the fortifications adopted at that period. At a later

time such contrivances were found to be a mistake, as they impeded the

movements of the garrison. They proved a weakness rather than a strength

by preventing men from being moved rapidly to a critical point at the

required time. The leading idea, at this period, was to render every

point of the defences independent of the rest. Each tower is, therefore,

a separate fort; the castle and barbican are independent of the city

walls, and could hold out although the town was in the hands of the

enemy; and within the castle there are two independent towers or

donjons, which might still form a refuge for the garrison for some time

after the castle was taken.

The lofty square tower (_see_ Fig. 110), which was crowned with a

_bretêche_, was carried up to a sufficient height to dominate the town

and the whole surrounding country. This structure and some of the

adjoining walls date from the twelfth century. The other buildings on

the north side of the castle are of the time of St Louis. The inner

enceinte of the castle with its towers and gates built by Philippe le

Hardi (the latter part of the thirteenth century) are splendid examples

of the military works of the period.

The walls of the towers surrounding the town are built with solid

masonry in regular courses, with the face left rough. The lower part of

the curtains is pierced with the long loops, sometimes 11 or 12 feet in

length, then in use, and the top was fortified with hoardings or

projecting wooden galleries, from the floor of which the defenders could

drop stones and other missiles on the assailants, so as to keep them off

from the base and prevent mining. All the walls and towers were

furnished with these hoardings. The square holes in which the beams were

inserted for carrying the galleries are still visible both in the outer

and inner walls (Figs. 110-113).

The towers are placed at suitable intervals to enable the curtains to be

defended from them by lateral fire, and some of them are strengthened

with a projecting beak to prevent the sappers from approaching when the

angle could not be well commanded from the adjoining parapets, as is the

case in the tower at the N.W. angle of the walls seen in Fig. 111. One

large square tower (shown in Fig. 111) called the “Tour de l’Evêque”

joins the outer and inner enceintes together by bridging over the space

between them. It has thus complete control over the lices both from

apertures in the vault, and from the hoardings which were projected on

the flanks. This tower derives additional interest from having been used

by Viollet-le-Duc as his studio while superintending the work of

restoration, and it contains a number of fine plaster casts prepared by

him.

The parapet walk of the inner wall runs all round the battlements. In

some cases it is interrupted by the towers (Fig. 114), and passes

through them; in other cases it is carried round the exterior of the

towers on the side next the town,--the former towers being posts for

guards and sentinels, and the latter being intended to serve as

independent posts for defence. Access to the walls is provided by good

open stairs on the side next the town, as shewn in Fig. 114, which

represents the interior of the walls at the same place, as Fig. 113

shews the exterior.

[Illustration: FIG. 114. CARCASSONNE--INTERIOR OF WALLS.]

The ramparts of Carcassonne have been to a large extent restored within

recent years; but still remain untouched on the eastern side (_see_ Fig.

112), where houses have been erected against the inner and upon the top

of the outer walls, so as to convert the “lices” into a street. On this

side the walls of the town are separated from the surrounding land,

which here is rather high, by a wide and deep ditch. The high ground

beyond the ditch was originally fortified with a large round tower (now

destroyed) which is supposed to have communicated with the town by a

subterranean passage.

Above the old houses on the walls are seen rising the great towers of

the Porte Narbonnaise, each strengthened with a salient beak. Between

these towers is the gateway. It had no drawbridge, but was defended in

front by a great chain, a wide machicolation, a portcullis, and folding

gates. In the centre of the vault over the archway there was a large

opening, and the inner gateway was strengthened with a wide

machicolation, a second portcullis, and a second gate. Besides these the

towers were of course provided with their hoardings and a _bretêche_

projected over the gateway. The great angle tower, called the “Trésau,”

and a large angle bartizan further protected the approach of the

gateway, as seen in the sketch.

Such were the fortifications of Carcassonne, the chief frontier fortress

on the side of Aragon, and there can be little doubt that against the

means of attack then employed, they were practically impregnable.

The ancient Church of St Nazaire at Carcassonne may be taken as an

example of the ruder form which the Romanesque style assumed in a

district not far removed from Provence. It occupies the highest point of

the height on which stands the ancient fortified _cité_ of Carcassonne.

[Illustration: FIG. 115. ST NAZAIRE, CARCASSONNE.]

The church is placed near the walls of the city, and the west end is

elevated and fortified so as to form part of the defences. The entrance

to the nave is by a twelfth century doorway in the north aisle. The

building consists of two portions, which form a striking contrast with

one another (Fig. 115); the nave of the eleventh century, and the

Romanesque choir of the fourteenth, the former of a massive and gloomy

design, the latter of the lightest and most elegant Gothic.

The older portion consists of a central nave and two side aisles,

separated by enormous piers, which are alternately plain cylinders and

squares with an engaged column on each face. The bases of the piers vary

greatly in form--none of them being of Roman design, but all set upon a

great square block. The caps of the cylindrical piers differ

considerably, but consist of large mouldings, with corbels and billet

ornaments. The pier arches are circular, and the aisles lofty, and

vaulted with round arches. Rising from the caps of the cylindrical piers

are short columns, the caps of which carry the pointed transverse ribs

of the tunnel vault of the nave, which is also pointed, and probably

belongs to the twelfth century. The caps of these short columns, and of

the attached shafts of the square piers, are all very large and bold,

and seem to be founded on Roman designs.

The light Gothic work of the choir, with its tall slender shafts, and

walls composed almost entirely of mullions and stained glass, forms a

brilliant termination to the vista of the ponderous nave. It belongs to

a much later period than the latter, having been erected by Bishop

Pierre de Rochefort, 1320-30. It is a palpable instance of the extension

of the Gothic style of the Royal Domain along with that of the Royal

Power, having been erected shortly after Carcassonne was united to

France.

Viollet-le-Duc considers this choir one of the most instructive

instances of the scientific method of construction adopted by the Gothic

architects of the fourteenth century; and he points out that the

architect has endeavoured to keep up the idea of the ancient nave in the

new work by preserving in the choir the plan of the nave piers--those of

the central compartments being square, with attached shafts, while the

others are round on plan.

We shall now return to Aigues Mortes, which, it will be remembered, was

reserved for consideration along with Carcassonne.

AIGUES MORTES is another town of the age of St Louis and his son Philip

the Bold, the fortifications of which have, by great good fortune, been

preserved almost untouched since the date of their erection. This

probably arises from the fact that Aigues Mortes presents one of the

most striking instances of the “villes mortes,” whose history is so

feelingly depicted by M. Lenthéric. It stands in the midst of the

lagunes and marshes which here cover a large extent of country connected

with the delta of the Rhone. The origin of the town dates from the time

of St Louis. At that period the Kingdom of France had not as yet

extended to the Mediterranean, but King Louis, being a devoted Crusader,

was very desirous that his country should possess a port on that sea,

from which his armies might embark in their expeditions against the

Infidels. This there was some difficulty in obtaining, the harbours on

the coast being almost wholly subject to the Count of Béziers or the

Count of Provence. It happened, however, that a small portion of the

sea-coast, including a lagune and a navigable canal, which belonged to

the ancient and wealthy Abbey of Psalmodi was available, and this King

Louis secured from the monks in the year 1248, in exchange for other

lands near Sommière. At

[Illustration: FIG. 116. AIGUES MORTES--“TOUR DE CONSTANCE.”]

this place there existed an ancient tower, called the “Tour de

Matafère,” said to be of the time of Charlemagne, who had bestowed it on

the abbey.

The Tower of Matafère was rebuilt by St Louis, and renamed the “Tour de

Constance” (Fig. 116). It is of great size, and was designed to form the

citadel of the projected town of Aigues Mortes. It has frequently been

supposed that, in the time of St Louis, this tower was washed by the

waters of the Mediterranean, and that the sea, which is now some miles

distant, has receded since then. But M. Lenthéric shews most distinctly

that this is a complete mistake, and that the coast line was, in the

thirteenth century, precisely where it now is. At that time, however,

the town was surrounded with the waters of an inland lagune, through the

shallows and marshes connected with which a canal had to be kept open

for access to the sea, as was formerly the case at Narbonne, and still

is in the lagune of Venice. The canal by which St Louis embarked on his

crusades was called the Canal Viel. It was about five miles in length

from the town to the opening in the sand dunes, called the “Grau Louis,”

where it debouched into the sea. Since that time the canal from the town

to the sea has three times changed its course. For about a century after

the time of St Louis this port was greatly frequented by merchants from

Genoa, but it has long been little used, and all the commerce of Aigues

Mortes has now died away.

The walls of Aigues Mortes were traced out by St Louis, but the

superstructure was executed by his son, Philip the Bold. The latter in

1272 took possession of the country of Toulouse and arranged with the

Genoese Boccanera to construct the walls of Aigues Mortes for a sum

equal to 88,500 francs. The town is laid out as a regular parallelogram

with streets at right angles,

[Illustration: FIG. 117. AIGUES MORTES--WALLS ON EAST AND NORTH SIDES.]

like the bastide of Carcassonne on the north side of the Aude. The walls

are built with solid masonry, having the natural surface left rough or

bossy. Fifteen towers surround the city and strengthen the curtains at

the angles and on the flanks. There are nine gates, two principal ones,

and the others smaller.

Being only a fortification of the second order the defences of Aigues

Mortes are not nearly of so complete a type as those of the important

fortress of Carcassonne. The towers are generally round, though some of

them, following the Southern fashion, are square and project only

slightly (Fig. 117). The gateways pass directly through the square

towers, which, as we have seen at Avignon, was a decidedly Southern

custom; and none of the circular towers have strengthening beaks. The

towers are so placed with reference to the walls that some of them, as

at Carcassonne, interrupt the parapet walk, while in others it is

carried round the outside of the inner face of the tower, and is

supported on large mouldings which form a continuous corbelling. This is

shewn in the view of one of the towers above a gateway taken from within

the walls (Fig. 118). The stairs giving access to the walls and the

interior of the loopholes are also seen in this view.

The walls of the town, which are about 30 feet high, are all provided

with a crenellated parapet, having long loops in the merlons between the

embrasures. The wall heads have also been defended with wooden

hoardings, the holes for the beams which carried them being very

distinctly visible all round the fortress. The lower part of the wall is

perforated with very long narrow slits. The interior recesses connected

with these are formed with wide splays like window bays, and are

provided with stone seats for the defenders (_see_ Fig. 118). Probably

the great

[Illustration: FIG. 118. INTERIOR OF SOUTH SIDE OF WALLS.]

length of the loops was to enable bowmen to operate both while standing

on the floor and on the seats, or even on temporary wooden platforms at

different heights, and also to aim their arrows either high or low. The

open staircases leading to the walls are carried up on the side next the

town in the same way as those of Carcassonne.

In approaching the town from the north the PORTE DE NIMES (Fig. 119) is

first seen in front, while a long vista of the northern wall with its

towers stretches to the left, and the Tour de Constance terminates the

view to the right. This gateway has as usual a large strengthening round

tower on each side, containing guardrooms, &c., and is so arranged as to

form an independent post.

Till the fourteenth century, gateways of this description were defended

with folding gates, portcullis, machicolations (or apertures in the

vault over the entrance passages), and with _bretêches_ or hoardings

projecting over the entrance, pierced with single, double, or even

triple tiers of loopholes from which to attack the assailants. But there

were as yet no drawbridges. At the Porte de Nimes evidences may be

observed of a drawbridge, wrought with long balanced beams or levers

passing through the wall, having been used; but it has evidently been

introduced at a later time.

The walls of Aigues Mortes were entirely surrounded with a wet ditch (a

few indications of which still remain), but it has for the most part

been filled up and converted into a promenade. The ditch would be

crossed with moveable wooden bridges which could be easily removed or

destroyed.

A projecting stone balcony is corbelled out from one of the round towers

of the Porte de Nimes. This was no doubt a station from which audience

could be given to heralds or others wishing to communicate with the

[Illustration: FIG. 119. PORTE DE NIMES, AIGUES MORTES.]

town without the necessity of opening any of the gates or other

defences. The fortifications present on plan a right angled

parallelogram about 600 yards from east to west, by 150 yards from north

to south, with a curved portion cut out of the north-west angle. At this

point stands the donjon, or Tour de Constance (_see_ Fig. 116), built by

St Louis, as above mentioned, on the site of the ancient Tour de

Matafère in order to form the citadel of the town. This tower is of the

simplest possible design, being a plain cylinder about 70 feet in

diameter, with a talus or slope near the base. It is about 100 feet

high, and was no doubt originally crowned with overhanging hoardings,

and when fully equipped would present an appearance not unlike the well

known great Keep of Couci Castle.

The Tour de Constance was surrounded with a special ditch, and was

connected with the town walls by means of narrow wooden gangways, which

could be easily removed. The top has been altered in the sixteenth

century, and made into a platform, and provided with a parapet suitable

for guns. Above the circular staircase in the thickness of the wall the

watch turret rises to a considerable height, and is crowned with the

iron grille which for long contained the fire which illumined the canal,

and served as a beacon to the ships.

Simple as is the exterior of this keep, its interior is full of interest

and beauty. The walls, as high as the first floor, are 20 feet in

thickness. The basement contains the storage and has a well in the

centre, over which an eye in the vaults above allows water to be raised

to every floor.

The entrance door is on the first floor on the side next the town, and

there is also a postern on this floor on the side next the country. From

the landing at the former, a staircase leads to the second floor, and is

so contrived that the lower part is completely overlooked and commanded

from the upper part. At the landing where the staircase gives access to

the great apartment on the upper floor, a beautifully arched and groined

lobby is constructed, and is decorated with Gothic shafts and enriched

caps.

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