THE OLD CHURCHES AND THE OLD HALLS

Christianity in Lancashire--so far, at all events, as concerns the

outward expression through the medium of places of worship--had a very

early beginning, the period being that of Paulinus, one of the

missionaries brought into England by Augustine. In 625 the kingdom of

Northumbria, which included the northern portions of the modern county

of Lancaster, had for its monarch the celebrated Edwin--he who

espoused the Christian princess Edilberga, daughter of the king of

Kent--the pious woman to whom the royal conversion was no doubt as

largely owing as to the exhortations of the priest who found in her

court welcome and protection. The story is told at length by Bede.

There is no necessity to recapitulate it. The king was baptized, and

Christianity became the state religion of the northern Angles.

Paulinus nowhere in his great diocese--that of York--found listeners

more willing than the ancestors of the people of East Lancashire; and

as nearly as possible twelve and a half centuries ago, the foundations

were laid at Whalley of the mother church of the district so

legitimately proud to-day of a memorial almost unique. Three stone

crosses, much defaced by exposure to the weather, still exist in the

graveyard. They are considered by antiquaries to have been erected in

the time of Paulinus himself, and possibly by his direction; similar

crosses occurring near Burnley Church, and at Dewsbury and Ilkley in

Yorkshire. The site is a few yards to the north of that one afterwards

chosen for the abbey. The primitive Anglo-Saxon churches, it is

scarcely requisite to say, were constructed chiefly, and often

entirely, of wood.[41] Hence their extreme perishableness, especially

in the humid climate of Lancashire; hence also the long step to the

next extant mementoes of ecclesiastical movement in this county; for

these, with one solitary exception, pertain, like the old castles, to

the early Norman times. The Saxon relic is one of the most interesting

in the north of England; and is peculiarly distinguished by the

mournful circumstances of the story which envelops it, though the

particular incidents are beyond discovery. At Heysham, as before

mentioned, four miles from Lancaster, on the edge of Morecambe Bay,

there is a little projecting rock, the only one thereabouts. Upon the

summit formerly stood "St. Patrick's Chapel," destroyed ages ago,

though the site is still traceable; fragments of stonework used in the

building of the diminutive Norman church beneath, and others in the

graveyard, adding their testimony. That, however, which attracts the

visitor is the existence to this day, upon the bare and exposed

surface of the rock, of half a dozen excavations adapted to hold the

remains of human beings of various stature--children as well as

adults. These "coffins," as the villagers call them, tell their own

tale. Upon this perilous and deceitful coast, one dark and tempestuous

night a thousand years ago, an entire family would seem to have lost

their lives by shipwreck. The bodies were laid side by side in these

only too significant cavities; the oratory or "chapel" was built as a

monument by their relatives, with, in addition, upon the highest point

of the hill, a beacon or sort of rude lighthouse, with the maintenance

of which the priest and his household were charged. On this lone

little North Lancashire promontory, where no sound is ever heard but

that of the sea, the heart is touched well-nigh as deeply as by the

busiest scenes of Liverpool commerce.

[41] Thus in conformity with their general architectural

practice, and as expressed in the Anglo-Saxon word for "to

build"--_getymbrian_.

The church architecture of the Norman times has plenty of examples in

Lancashire. It is well known also that many modern churches occupy old

Norman and even Saxon sites, though nothing of the original structure

has been preserved. The remains in question usually consist, as

elsewhere, of the massive pillars always employed by the Norman

architects for the nave, or of the ornamented arch which it was their

custom to place at the entrance of the choir. Examples of Norman

pillars exist at Colne, Lancaster, Hawkshead, Cartmel, Whalley, and

Rochdale; the last-named, with the arches above, bringing to mind the

choir of Canterbury Cathedral; at Clitheroe we find a chancel-arch;

and at the cheerful and pretty village of Melling, eleven miles

north-west of Lancaster, a Norman doorway, equalled perhaps in merit

by another at Bispham, near Blackpool. Chorley parish church also

declares itself of Norman origin, and at Blackburn are preserved

various sculptured stones, plainly from Norman tools, and which

belonged to the church now gone, as rebuilt or restored in the De Lacy

times. The most ancient ecclesiastical building in Lancashire is

Stede, or Styd, Chapel, a mile and a half north of the site of

Ribchester. The period of the erection would appear to be that of

Stephen, thus corresponding with the foundation of Furness Abbey. The

windows are narrow lancet; the doors, though rather pointed, are

enriched with Norman ornaments; the floor is strewed with ancient

gravestones. In this quiet little place divine service is still, or

was recently, held once a month.

Whalley Church, as we have it to-day--a building commemorative in site

of the introduction of the Christian faith into this part of

England--dates apparently, in its oldest portion--the pillars in the

north aisle--from the twelfth century. The choir is a little later,

probably of about 1235, from which time forwards it is evident that

building was continued for quite 200 years, so that Whalley, like York

Minster, is an epitome of architectural progress. The sedilia and

piscina recall times antecedent to the Reformation. Every portion of

the church is crowded with antiquities, many of them heraldic; very

specially inviting among them are the stalls in the chancel, eighteen

in number, transferred hither from the conventual church at the time

of the spoliation. The luxuriant carving of the abbot's stall is in

itself enough to repay an artist's journey. At the head of one of the

compartments of the east window we have the Lancastrian rose; the

flower of course tinctured gules, and almost the only representation

of it in the county:

"Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer,

But dare maintain the party of the truth,

Pluck a red rose from off this thorn with me."

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