THE COTTON DISTRICT AND THE MANUFACTURE OF COTTON

First in the long list of Lancashire manufacturing towns, by reason of

its magnitude and wealth, comes Manchester. By and by we shall speak

of this great city in particular. For the present the name must be

taken in the broader sense, equally its own, which carries with it the

idea of an immense district. Lancashire, eastwards from Warrington,

upwards as far as Preston, is dotted over with little Manchesters, and

these in turn often possess satellites. The idea of Manchester as a

place of cotton factories covers also a portion of Cheshire, and

extends even into Derbyshire and Yorkshire--Stockport, Hyde,

Stalybridge, Dukinfield, Saddleworth, Glossop, essentially belong to

it. To all these towns and villages Manchester stands in the relation

of a Royal Exchange. It is the reservoir, at the same time, into

which they pour their various produce. Manchester acquired this

distinguished position partly by accident, mainly through its very

easy access to Liverpool. At one time it had powerful rivals in

Blackburn and Bolton. Blackburn lost its chance through the frantic

hostility of the lower orders towards machinery, inconsiderate men of

property giving them countenance--excusably only under the law that

mental delusions, like bodily ailments, are impartial in choice of

victims. Bolton, on the other hand, though sensible, was too near to

compete permanently, neither had it similar access to Liverpool. The

old salerooms in Bolton, with their galleries and piazzas, now all

gone, were ninety years ago a striking and singular feature of that

busy hive of spinning and weaving bees.

Most of these little Manchesters are places of comparatively new

growth. A century ago nearly all were insignificant villages or

hamlets. Even the names of the greater portion were scarcely known

beyond the boundaries of their respective parishes. How unimportant

they were in earlier times is declared by the vast area of many of the

latter, the parishes in Lancashire, as everywhere else, having been

marked out according to the ability of the population to maintain a

church and pastor. It is not in manufacturing Lancashire as in the

old-fashioned rural counties,--Kent, Sussex, Hampshire, and appled

Somerset,--where on every side one is allured by some beautiful

memorial of the lang syne. "Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the

plain" is not here. Everything, where Cotton reigns, presents the

newness of aspect of an Australian colony. The archæological

scraps--such few as there may be--are usually submerged, even in the

older towns, in the "full sea" of recent building. Even in the

graveyards, the places of all others which in their tombstones and

inscriptions unite past and present so tenderly, the imagination has

usually to turn away unfed. In place of yew-trees old as York Minster,

if there be anything in the way of green monument, it is a soiled and

disconsolate shrub from the nearest nursery garden.

The situation of these towns is often pleasing enough: sometimes it is

picturesque, and even romantic. Having begun in simple homesteads,

pitched where comfort and safety seemed best assured, they are often

found upon gentle eminences, the crests of which, as at Oldham, they

now overlap; others, like Stalybridge, lie in deep hollows, or, like

Blackburn, have gradually spread from the margin of a stream. Not a

few of these primitive sites have the ancient character pleasingly

commemorated in their names, as Haslingden, the "place of hazel-nuts."

The eastern border of the county being characterised by lofty and

rocky hills, the localities of the towns and villages are there often

really favoured in regard to scenery. This also gives great interest

to the approaches, as when, after leaving Todmorden, we move through

the sinuous gorge that, bordered by Cliviger, "mother of rocks," leads

on to Burnley. The higher grounds are bleak and sterile, but the

warmth and fertility of the valleys make amends. In any case, there is

never any lack of the beauty which comes of the impregnation of wild

nature with the outcome of human intelligence. Manchester itself

occupies part of a broad level, usually clay-floored, and with

peat-mosses touching the frontiers. In the bygones nothing was sooner

found than standing water: the world probably never contained a town

that only thirty to a hundred years ago possessed so many ponds, many

of them still in easy recollection, to say nothing of as many more

within the compass of an afternoon's walk.

Rising under the influence of a builder so unambitious as the genius

of factories and operatives' cottages, no wonder that a very few

years ago the Lancashire cotton towns seemed to vie with one another

which should best deserve the character of cold, hard, dreary, and

utterly unprepossessing. The streets, excepting the principal artery

(originally the road through the primitive village, as in the case of

Newton Lane, Manchester), not being susceptible of material change,

mostly remain as they were--narrow, irregular, and close-built.

Happily, of late there has been improvement. Praiseworthy aspirations

in regard to public buildings are not uncommon, and even in the

meanest towns are at times undeniably successful. In the principal

centres--Manchester, Bolton, Rochdale, and another or two--the old

meagreness and unsightliness are daily becoming less marked, and a

good deal that is really magnificent is in progress as well as

completed. Unfortunately, the efforts of the architect fall only too

soon under the relentless influence of the factory and the foundry.

Manchester is in this respect an illustration of the whole group; the

noblest and most elegant buildings sooner or later get smoke-begrimed.

Sombre as the Lancashire towns become under that influence, if there

be collieries in the neighbourhood, as in the case of well-named

"coaly Wigan," the dismal hue is intensified, and in dull and rainy

weather grows still worse. On sunshiny days one is reminded of a

sullen countenance constrained to smile against the will.

[Illustration: WIGAN]

A "Lancashire scene" has been said to resolve into "bare hills and

chimneys"; and as regards the cotton districts the description is,

upon the whole, not inaccurate. Chimneys predominate innumerably in

the landscape, a dark pennon usually undulating from every

summit--perhaps not pretty pictorially, but in any case a gladsome

sight, since it means work, wages, food, for those below, and a fire

upon the hearth at home. Though the sculptor may look with dismay upon

his ornaments in marble once white as a lily, now under its visitation

gray as November, never mind--the smoke denotes human happiness and

content for thousands: when her chimneys are smokeless, operative

Lancashire is hungry and sad.

In the towns most of the chimneys belong to the factories--buildings

of remarkable appearance. The very large ones are many storeys high,

their broad and lofty fronts presenting tier upon tier of monotonous

square windows. Decoration seems to be studiously avoided, though

there is often plenty of scope for inexpensive architectural effects

that, to say the least, would be welcome. Seen by day, they seem

deserted; after dark, when the innumerable windows are lighted up,

the spectacle changes and becomes unique. Were it desired to

illuminate in honour of a prince, to render a factory more brilliant

from the interior would be scarcely possible. Like all other great

masses of masonry, the very large ones, though somewhat suggestive of

prisons, if not grand, are impressive. In semi-rural localities, where

less tarnished by smoke, especially when tolerably new, and not

obscured by the contact of inferior buildings, they are certainly very

fine objects. The material, it is scarcely needful to say, is red

brick.

All the towns belonging to the Manchester family-circle present more

or less decidedly the features mentioned. They differ from one another

not in style, or habits, or physiognomy; the difference is simply that

one makes calico, another muslins, and that they cover a less or

greater extent of ground. The social, moral, and intellectual

qualities of the various places form quite another subject of

consideration. For the present it must wait; except with the remark

that a Lancashire manufacturing town, however humble, is seldom

without a lyceum, or some similar institution; and if wealthy, is

prone to emulate cities. Witness the beautiful Art Exhibition held not

long ago at Darwen!

[Illustration: WARRINGTON]

The industrial history of the important Lancashire cotton towns,

although their modern development covers less than ninety years, dates

from the beginning of the fourteenth century. As early as A.D. 1311,

temp. Edward II., friezes were manufactured at Colne, but, as

elsewhere in the country, they would seem to have been coarse and of

little value. "The English at that time," says quaint old Fuller,

"knew no more what to do with their wool than the sheep that weare it,

as to any artificial curious drapery." The great bulk of the native

produce of wool was transmitted to Flanders and the Rhenish provinces,

where it was woven, England repurchasing the cloth. Edward III.,

allowing himself to be guided by the far-reaching sagacity of his wise

queen, Philippa, resolved that the manufacture should be kept at home.

Parties of the Flemish weavers were easily induced to come over, the

more so because wretchedly treated in their own country. Manchester,

Bolton, Rochdale, and Warrington, were tenanted almost immediately,

and a new character was at once given to the textile productions both

of the district and the island in general. Furness Abbey was then in

its glory; its fertile pastures supplied the wants of these

industrious people: they seem, however, not to have cared to push

their establishments so far, keeping in the south and east of the

county, over which they gradually spread, carrying, wherever they

went, the "merry music of the loom." The same period witnessed the

original use of coal--again, it is believed, through the advice of

Philippa; the two great sources of Lancashire prosperity being thus in

their rise contemporaneous. The numerous little rivers and waterfalls

of East Lancashire contributed to the success of the new adventurers.

Fulling-mills and dye-works were erected upon the margins: the

particular spots are now only conjectural; mementoes of these ancient

works are nevertheless preserved in the springing up occasionally, to

the present day, on the lower Lancashire river-banks, of plants

botanically alien to the neighbourhood. These are specially the

fullers' teasel, _Dipsacus fullonum_, and the dyers' weed, _Reseda

luteola_, both of which were regularly used, the refuse, with seeds,

cast into the stream being carried many miles down and deposited where

the plants now renew themselves. The retention of their vitality by

seeds properly ripened, when buried too deep for the operation of the

atmosphere, sunshine, and moisture, all at once, is well known to

naturalists, as well as their germination when brought near enough to

the surface of the ground. This ancient woollen manufacture endured

for quite 300 years. Cotton then became a competitor, and gradually

superseded it; Rochdale and a few other places alone vindicating the

old traditions.

The Flemings also introduced the national _sabots_, from which have

descended the wooden clogs heard in operative Lancashire wherever

pavement allows of the clatter, only that while the _sabots_ were

wholly wooden, with a lining of lambskin, the Lancashire clogs have

leathern tops.

In the writings of the period before us, and in others long

afterwards, the Flemings' woollens are called "cottonnes," a

circumstance which has led to much misapprehension as to the date of

the original use in England of cotton _ipsissima_. In 1551-52, temp.

Edward VI., an "Acte" passed for the making of "woollen clothe"

prescribes the length and breadth of "all and everie cottonnes called

Manchester, Lancashire, and Cheshire cottonnes." Leland, in the

following reign, mentions in similar phrase, that "divers villagers in

the moores about Bolton do make cottons." Genuine cotton fabrics

manufactured abroad were known in England, no doubt, though the raw

material had not been seen. Chaucer habits his Knight in "fustian," a

word which points to Spain as the probable source. The truth as

regards the "cottonnes" would seem to be that certain woollens were

made so as to resemble cotton, and called by the same name, just as

to-day certain calicoes have the look of linen given to them, and are

sold as "imitation Irish," and as gloves made of the skins of

uncertain animals are passed off as "French kid"; unless, indeed, as

conjectured by some, the word "cottonnes" was a corruption of

"coatings."

The employment of cotton for manufacturing in England is mentioned

first in 1641, when it was brought to London from Cyprus and Smyrna.

The word "cotton" itself, we need hardly say, is of oriental origin,

taking one back to India, the old-world birthplace of the plant. Used

there as the clothing material from time immemorial, it is singular

that the movement westward should have been so slow. The people who

introduced it, practically, to Europe, were the Moors, who in the

tenth century cultivated cotton in old Granada, simultaneously with

rice, the sugar-cane, and the orange-tree, all brought by themselves

from Asia. In those days Moslems and Christians declined to be

friendly, and thus, although the looms were never still, the

superabundance of the manufacture went exclusively to Africa and the

Levant. The cotton-plant being indigenous also to Mexico and the West

Indies, when commerce arose with the latter, Cyprus and Smyrna no

longer had the monopoly. Precise dates, however, are wanting till the

first years of the eighteenth century, when the United States and the

Mersey of to-day had their prototype in Barbadoes and the Lune,

already mentioned as having been a cotton port long anterior to

Liverpool. Lancaster city itself is not accessible by ships. The

cotton was usually landed on the curious _lingula_ which juts into the

Irish Sea where the estuary disappears, and hither the country people

used to come to wonder at it.[15] The first advertisement of a sale of

cotton in Liverpool appeared in November 1758, but thirty years after

that Lancaster was still the principal Lancashire seat of import. One

of the most distinguished of the "Lancashire worthies," old Mr. John

Blackburne, of Orford Mount, near Warrington, an enthusiastic

gardener, cultivated the cotton-plant so successfully that he was able

to provide his wife with a muslin dress, worn by her on some state

occasion in or about 1790, the material derived wholly from the

greenhouse he loved so fondly. Strange that, except occasionally in

an engine-room, we scarcely ever see the cotton-plant in the county it

has filled with riches--the very place where one would expect to find

it cherished. How well would it occupy a few inches of the space so

generally devoted to the pomps and vanities of mere colour-worship!

Apart from the associations, it is beautiful; the leaves resemble

those of the grape-vine; the flowers are like single yellow roses.

There never was a flood without its ark. One man a few years ago did

his part with becoming zeal--the late Mr. R. H. Alcock, of Bury.

Lancashire, it may be allowed here to remind the reader, is the only

manufacturing district in England which depends entirely upon foreign

countries for the supply of its raw material. One great distinction

between England and other countries is that the latter send away the

whole, or very much, of their natural produce, usually as gathered

together, England importing it and working it up. How terribly the

dependence in question was proved at the time of the Federal and

Confederate war, all who were cognisant of the great Cotton-famine

will remember. Next in order would come sugar and timber, a dearth of

either of which would unquestionably be disastrous; but not like want

of cotton in Lancashire--the stranding of a whole community.

[15] _Vide_ the _Autobiography of Wm. Stout_, the old Quaker

grocer, ironmonger, and general merchant of Lancaster. He

mentions receiving cotton from Barbadoes in 1701, and onwards to

1725, when the price advanced "from 10d. to near 2s. 1d. the

lb."

The Lancashire cotton towns owe their existence essentially to the

magic touch of modern mechanical art. During all the long procession

of centuries that had elapsed since the time of the "white-armed"

daughter of Alcinous, her maidens, and their spinning-wheels, and of

the swarthy weavers of ancient Egypt, the primeval modes of

manufacture had been followed almost implicitly. The work of the

Flemings themselves was little in advance of that of the Hebrews under

Solomon. In comparison with that long period, the time covered by the

change induced by machinery was but a moment, and the growth of the

weaving communities, compared with that of previous times, like a

lightning-flash. The movement commenced about 1760. Up till long after

the time of Elizabeth, the staple manufacture of Lancashire, as we

have seen, was woollen. Flax, in the sixteenth century, began to be

imported largely, both from Ireland and the Continent, and when cotton

at last arrived the two materials were combined. Flax was used for the

"warp" or longitudinal threads, which in weaving require to be

stronger than the "woof," while cotton was employed only for the

latter--technically the "weft."

Fabrics composed wholly of cotton do not appear to have been made in

Lancashire before the time of George II., Bolton leading the way with

cotton velvets about 1756. The cotton weft was spun by the people in

their own cottages, chiefly by the women, literally the "spinsters" of

the family, representative eighteen centuries afterwards, of the good

housewife of the _Æneid_ and of the still older one in the Book of

Proverbs, though as the years rolled on so greatly did the demand

increase that every child had work of one kind or another. Thus began

"infant labour," afterwards so much abused. The employment of children

over thirteen in the modern factory is quite a different thing. Placed

under legal restrictions, it is a blessing alike to themselves and to

their parents, since if not there, the children now earning their

bread would be idling, and probably in mischief. Those, it has been

well said, who have to live by labour should early be trained to

labour. Diligent as they were, the spinsters could not produce weft

fast enough for the weavers. Sitting at their looms, which were also

in the cottages, thoughtful men pondered the possibilities of quicker

methods. Presently the dream took shape, and from the successive

inventions of Whyatt, Kay, Highs, and Hargreaves, emerged the

famous "spinning-jenny,"[16] a machine which did as much work in the

same time as a dozen pair of hands. Abreast of it came the

warping-mill, the carding-engine, and the roving-frame: the latter

particularly opportune, since the difficulty had always been to

disentangle the fibres of the cotton prior to twisting, and to lay

them exactly parallel. Arkwright now came on the scene. He himself

never invented anything; but he had marvellous powers of combination,

such as enabled him to assimilate all that was good in the ideas of

other men, and to give them unity and new vitality. The result was

machinery that gave exquisite evenness and attenuation to the

"rovings," and a patent having been granted 15th July 1769, Arkwright

is properly regarded as the founder of the modern modes of

manufacture. Arkwright possessed, in addition, a thoroughly feminine

capacity for good management and perseverance, with that most

excellent adjunct, the art of obtaining ascendancy over capitalists.

Among the immediate results were the disuse of linen warp, the new

frames enabling cotton warp to be made strong enough; and the

concentration of all the early processes, spinning included, in

special buildings, with employment of horse or water-power. The

weaving, however, long remained with the cottagers, and survives to a

slight extent even to the present day. The Lancashire cotton

manufacture, strictly so called, is thus very little more than a

century old. No further back than in 1774, fabrics made wholly of

cotton were declared by statute to have been "lately introduced," and

a "lawful and laudable manufacture."

[16] That the spinning-jenny was so named after a wife or

daughter of one of the inventors is fable. The original wheel

was the "jenny," a term corresponding with others well known in

Lancashire,--the "peggy" and the "dolly,"--and the new

contrivance became the "_spinning_-jenny."

[Illustration: THE DINNER HOUR]

The following year, 1775, saw the perfecting of Crompton's celebrated

"mule," which produced, at less expense, a much finer and softer yarn

than Arkwright's machine. It was specially suitable for muslins; and

from this date most assuredly should be reckoned the elevation of the

manufacture to its highest platform. Like the jenny, it was used at

first in private houses, but a nobler application was close at hand--a

new revolution--the superseding of hand, and horse, and water power,

all at one moment, by steam. Had the former remained the only

artificial sources of help--even supposing rivers and brooks not

subject to negation by drought, the cotton manufacture must needs have

been confined within narrow limits, and the greatest conceivable

supply of the raw material would not have altered the case. Steam,

which, like Lord Chatham, "tramples upon impossibilities," at once

gave absolute freedom; and manufacturing, in the space of thirty

years, eclipsed its history during 3000. The "mule" was now

transferred to the mill, and the factory system became complete.

Power-looms were first employed in Manchester in 1806. Stockport

followed, and by degrees they became general, improvements going on up

till as late as 1830, when the crowning triumph of cotton machinery

was patented as the "self-acting mule." The pride of Lancashire, it

must be remembered, consists, after all, not in the delicacy and the

beauty of its cottons, for in these respects India has not yet been

out-run; but in the rapidity, the cheapness, and the boundless

potentialities of the manufacture, which enable it to meet, if called

upon, the requirements of every nation in the world. While any human

creature remains imperfectly clad, Lancashire still has its work to

do. To be entrusted with this great business is a privilege, and in

the honourable execution consists its true and essential glory.

"Over-production," while any are naked, is a phrase without meaning.

That which wants correcting is deficient absorption.

[Illustration: PAY-DAY IN A COTTON MILL]

Reviewing the whole matter, the specially interesting point--rendered

so through inciting to profoundest reflection--is that those poor and

unlettered men--Hargreaves, Arkwright, Crompton, and the others--were

the instruments, under Providence (for such things do not happen

fortuitously), by which the world became possessed of an entirely new

industrial power, fraught with infinite capacities for promoting human

welfare; and which, in its application, introduced quite new styles of

thinking and reasoning, and gave new bias to the policy of a great

nation. Hargreaves, Arkwright, Crompton, had no prescience of what

would come of their efforts. In no part of the transformation was

there any precedent or example; it had neither lineage nor

inheritance; it was anticipated in momentousness only by the

inventions of Caxton and Gioia;[17] and if in our own day the electric

telegraph and the telephone reveal natural laws scarcely

distinguishable from those of miracle, it may still be questioned if

these latter discoveries surpass in intrinsic value the three or four

that gave life to the modern cotton manufacture.

[17] Inventor of the mariners' compass.

The interior of a great cotton factory, when at work, presents a

spectacle altogether unimaginable. The vast area of the rooms, or

"flats," filled in every part with machinery, admits of no comparison

with anything else in England, being found in the factory alone. A

thousand great iron frames, exquisitely composite, and kept

fastidiously clean, some by self-acting dusters, are in simultaneous

movement, the arms of some rising and falling, while parts of others

march in and out, and to and fro, giving perfect illustrations of

order, reciprocal adaptation, and interdependence, and seeming not

only alive, but conscious. Nothing is more striking, perhaps, than to

watch the shuttles as they dart alternately right and left, every

movement meaning an added thread to the beautiful offspring. The poets

are supposed by some to concern themselves only with fiction. Men and

women who write verses are poets only when they deal with truth,

though presented in the garb of fable; and assuredly, for a poet's

theme, there is nothing to excel a skilfully conducted human

manufacture. Erasmus Darwin, it will be remembered, describes the

whole series of processes in connection with cotton as observed by him

in Arkwright's original factory upon the Derwent.

A common practice is to have the looms in a "shed" upon the surface of

the ground. To be as near the earth as possible is a desire no less

with the spinner, who, like the weaver, finds the lower atmospheric

conditions much more favourable to his work than the upper. In any

case, where the power-looms are, long lines of slender pillars support

the roof, presenting an unbroken and almost endless perspective; and

between the machinery and the ceiling, connected with the horizontal

shafts which revolve just below it, are innumerable strong brown

leather straps that quiver as they run their courses. According to the

department we may be in, either threads or coils of cotton whiter than

pearl, and of infinite number, give occupation to those thousand

obedient and tireless slaves--not of the ring or the lamp, but of the

mighty engine that invisibly is governing the whole; and in attendance

are men and women, boys and girls, again beyond the counting. Their

occupations are in no degree laborious: all the heavy work is done by

the steam-engine; muscular power is not wanted so much as delicacy and

readiness of hand and finger. Hence in the factory and the cotton-mill

there is opportunity for those who are too weak for other vocations.

Machinery in all cases has the merit of at once increasing the

workman's wages and lessening his fatigue. The precision in the

working of the machinery enforces upon those who attend to it a

corresponding regularity of action. There is no re-twisting or

re-weaving; everything, if done at all, must be done properly and at

the proper moment. Apart from its being a place wherein to earn

creditably the daily bread, if there be anything in the world which

conduces pre-eminently to the acquisition of habits such as lie at the

foundation of good morals,--order, care, cleanliness, punctuality,

industry, early rising,--assuredly it is the wholesome discipline of

the well-ordered cotton factory. Whatever may befall _outside_, there

is nothing deleterious _inside_; the personal intercourse of the

people employed is itself reduced to a minimum; if they corrupt one

another, it is as people _not_ in factories do. In the rooms and

"sheds" devoted to weaving, the rattle of the machinery forbids even

conversation, except when the voice is adjusted to it. In the quieter

parts the girls show their contentedness not infrequently by singing--

"The joyful token of a happy mind."

[Illustration: IN A COTTON FACTORY]

"How often," says the type of the true Lancashire poet, most genial of

his race,--the late Edwin Waugh,--"how often have I heard some fine

psalm-tune streaming in chorus from female voices when passing

cotton-mills at work, and mingling with the spoom of thousands of

spindles." That the girls in particular are not unhappy is shown by

their preference of the cotton-mill to domestic service. Their health

is as good as that of any other class of operatives; and though they

have to keep upon their feet, it is not for so long a time as young

women in city shops. Of course there is a shadowy side to life

identified with the factory. The hands do not live in Elysium, any

more than the agricultural labourer does in Arcadia. The masters, as

everywhere else, are both good and bad: in the aggregate they are no

worse than their fellows in other places, and to expect them to be

better would be premature. In case of grievance or abuse there is an

"inspector" to apply to for remedy. The wages are as good as those

earned by any other large class of English work-people; and if the

towns in which so many abide are unlovely, the Lancashire

cotton-operatives at all events know little or nothing of the vice and

filth of metropolitan St. Giles'.

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