LIVERPOOL

The situation of this great city is in some respects one of the most

enviable in the country. Stretching along the upper bank of an

unrivalled estuary, 1200 yards across where narrowest, and the river

current of which flows westwards, it is near enough to the sea to be

called a maritime town, yet sufficiently far inland never to suffer

any of the discomforts of the open coast. Upon the opposite side of

the water the ground rises gently. Birkenhead, the energetic new

Liverpool of the last fifty years, covers the nearer slopes; in the

distance there are towers and spires, with glimpses of trees, and even

of windmills that tell of wheat not far away.

Liverpool itself is pleasantly undulated. Walking through the busy

streets there is constant sense of rise and fall. An ascent that can

be called toilsome is never met with; nor, except concurrently with

the docks, and in some of the remoter parts of the town, is there any

long continuity of flatness.

[Illustration: SHIPPING ON THE MERSEY]

Compared with the other two principal English seaports, London and

Bristol, the superiority of position is incontestable. A town situated

upon the edge of an estuary must needs have quite exceptional

advantages. London is indebted for its wealth and grandeur more to its

having been the metropolis for a thousand years than to the service

directly rendered by the Thames; and as for Bristol, the wonder is

that with a stream like the Avon it should still count with the trio,

and retain its ancient title of Queen of the West. Away from the

water-side, Liverpool loses. There are no green downs and "shadowy

woods" reached in half-an-hour from the inmost of the city, such as

give character to Clifton; nor, upon the whole, can the scenery of the

neighbourhood be said to present any but the very mildest and simplest

features. Only in the district which includes Mossley, Allerton,

Toxteth, and Otterspool, is there any approach to the picturesque.

Hereabouts we find meadows and rural lanes; and a few miles up the

stream, the Cheshire hills begin to show plainly. Yet not far from the

Prince's Park there is a little ravine that aforetime, when farther

away from the borough boundaries, and when the name was given, would

seem to have been another Kelvin Grove,--

"Where the rose, in all its pride,

Paints the hollow dingle side,

And the midnight fairies glide,

Bonnie lassie, O!"

Fairyland, tram-cars, and the hard facts of a great city, present few

points of contact--Liverpool contrives to unite them in "Exchange to

Dingle, 3d. inside." Among the dainty little poems left us by Roscoe,

who was quick to recognise natural beauty, there is one upon the

disappearance of the brooklet which, descending from springs now dried

up, once babbled down this pretty dell with its tribute to the river.

To the stranger approaching Liverpool by railway, these inviting bits

of the adjacent country are, unfortunately, not visible. But let him

not murmur. When, after passing through the town, he steps upon the

Landing-stage and looks out upon the heaving water, with its countless

craft, endless in variety, and representing every nation that

possesses ships, he is compensated. The whole world does not present

anything in its way more abounding with life. A third of a mile in

length, broad enough for the parade of troops, imperceptibly

adjusting itself to every condition of the tide, the Liverpool

Landing-stage, regarded simply as a work of constructive art, is a

wonderful sight. It is the scene of the daily movement of many

thousands of human beings, some departing, others just arrived; and,

above all there is the many-hued outlook right and left.

[Illustration: AMERICAN WHEAT AT LIVERPOOL]

Thoroughly to appreciate the nobleness, the capacities, and the use

made of this magnificent river, a couple of little voyages should be

undertaken: one towards the entrance, where the tall white shaft of

the lighthouse comes in view; the other, ascending the stream as far

as Rock Ferry. By this means the extent of the docks and the magnitude

of the neighbouring warehouses may in some degree be estimated. Up the

river and down, from the middle portion of the Landing-stage, without

reckoning Birkenhead, the line of sea-wall measures more than six

miles. The water area of the docks approaches 270 acres; the length of

surrounding quay-margin is nearly twenty miles. The double voyage

gives opportunity also for observation of the many majestic vessels

which are either moving or at anchor in mid-channel. Merchantmen

predominate, but in addition there are almost invariably two or three

of the superb steamers which have their proper home upon the

Atlantic, and in a few hours will be away. The great Companies whose

names are so familiar--the Cunard, the Allan, the White Star, the

Inman, and five or six others--despatch between them no fewer than ten

of these splendid vessels every week, and fortnightly two extra, the

same number arriving at similar intervals. Columbus's largest ship was

about ninety tons; the steamers spoken of are mostly from 2000 to 5000

tons; a few are of 8000 or 9000 tons. Besides these, there are the

South Americans, the steamers to the East and West Indies, China,

Japan, and the West Coast of Africa, the weight varying from 1500 to

4000 tons, more than fifty of these mighty vessels going out every

month, and as many coming in. The total number of ships and steamers

actually _in_ the docks, Birkenhead included, on the 6th of December

1880 was 438.

A fairly fine day, a sunshiny one if possible, should be selected for

these little voyages, not merely because of its pleasantness, but in

order to observe the astonishing distance to which the river-life

extends. Like every other town in our island, Liverpool knows full

well what is meant by fog and rain. "Some days must be dark and

dreary." At times it is scarcely possible for the ferry-boats to find

their way across, and not a sound is to be heard except to convey

warning or alarm. But the gloomy hours, fortunately, do not come

often. The local meteorologists acknowledge an excellent average of

cheerful weather,--the prevailing kind along the whole extent of the

lower Lancashire coast, the hills being too distant to arrest the

passage of the clouds,--and the man who misses his boat two or three

times running must indeed be unlucky. Happily, these uncertainties

and vexations of the bygones, actual and possible, have now been

neutralised, say since 20th January 1886, by the construction of the

Cheshire Lines tunnel under the river.

[Illustration: RAN AWAY TO SEA]

Nothing, on a fine day, can be more exhilarating than three or four

hours upon the Mersey. Liverpool, go where we may, is, in the better

parts, a place emphatically of exhilarations. The activity of the

river-life is prefigured in the jauntiness of the movement in the

streets; the display in the shop-windows, at all events where one has

to make way for the current of well-dressed ladies which at noon adds

in no slight measure to the various gaiety of the scene, is a constant

stimulus to the fancy--felt so much the more if one's railway ticket

for the day has been purchased in homely Stockport, or dull Bury, or

unadorned Middleton, or even in thronged Manchester. Still it is upon

the water that the impression is most animating. High up the river,

generally near the Rock Ferry pier, a guardship is stationed--usually

an ironclad. Beyond this we come upon four old men-of-war used as

training-ships. The _Conway_, a naval school for young officers,

accommodates 150, including many of good birth, who pay £50 a-year

apiece. The _Indefatigable_ gives gratuitous teaching to the sons of

sailors, orphans, and other homeless boys. The _Akbar_ and the

_Clarence_ are Reformatory schools, the first for misbehaving

Protestant lads, the other for Catholics. The good work done by these

Reformatories is immense. During the three years 1876 to 1878, the

number passed out of the two vessels was 1890, and of these no fewer

than 1420 had been converted into capital young seamen.[8]

[8] _Vide_ Mr. Inglis's Twenty-third Report to Government on the

Certified and Industrial Schools of Great Britain, December

1880.

Who will write us a book upon the immeasurable _minor_ privileges of

life, the things we are apt to pass by and take no note of, because

"common"? Sailing upon this glorious river, how beautiful overhead the

gleam, against the azure, of the sea-gulls! Liverpool is just near

enough to the saltwater for them to come as daily visitants, just far

enough for them to be never so many as to spoil the sweet charm of the

unexpected: for the moment they make one forget even the ships. Man's

most precious and enduring possessions are the loveliness and the

significance of nature. Were all things valued as they deserve,

perhaps these cheery sea-birds would have their due.

The Liverpool docks are more remarkable than those even of London.

Some of the famed receptacles fed from the Thames are more capacious,

and the number of vessels they contain when full is proportionately

greater than is possible in the largest of the Liverpool. But in

London there are not so many, nor is there so great a variety of cargo

seen upon the quays, nor is the quantity of certain imports so vast.

In the single month of October 1880 Liverpool imported from North

America of apples alone no fewer than 167,400 barrels. Most of the

docks are devoted to particular classes of ships or steamers, or to

special branches of trade. The King's Dock is the chief scene of the

reception of tobacco, the quantity of which brought into Liverpool is

second only to the London import; while the Brunswick is chiefly

devoted to the ships bringing timber. The magnificent Langton and

Alexandra Docks, opened in September 1881, are reserved for the ocean

steamers, which previously had to lie at anchor in the channel,

considerably to the disadvantage of all concerned, but which now enjoy

all the privileges of the smallest craft. At intervals along the quays

there are huge cranes for lifting; and very interesting is it to note

the care taken that their strength, though herculean, shall not be

overtaxed, every crane being marked according to its power, "Not to

lift more than two tons," or whatever other weight it is adapted to.

Like old Bristol, Liverpool holds her docks in her arms. In London, as

an entertaining German traveller told his countrymen some fifty years

ago, a merchant, when he wants to despatch an order to his ship in the

docks, "must often send his clerk down by the railroad; in Liverpool

he may almost make himself heard in the docks out of his

counting-house."[9] This comes mainly of the town and the docks having

grown up together.

[9] J. G. Kohl. _England, Scotland, and Ireland_, vol. iii. p.

43. 1844.

The "dockmen" are well worth notice. None of the loading and unloading

of the ships is done by the sailors. As soon as the vessel is safely

"berthed," the consignees contract with an intermediate operator

called a stevedore,[10] who engages as many men as he requires, paying

them 4s. 6d. per day, and for half-days and quarter-days in

proportion. Nowhere do we see a better illustration than is supplied

in Liverpool of the primitive Judean market-places, "Why stand ye here

all the day idle?" "Because no man hath hired us." Work enough for all

there never is: a circumstance not surprising when we consider that

the total number of day-labourers in Liverpool is estimated at

30,000. The non-employed, who are believed to be always about

one-half, or 15,000, congregate near the water; a favourite place of

assembly appears to be the pavement adjoining the Baths. The dockmen

correspond to the male adults among the operatives in the cotton-mill

districts, with the great distinction that they are employed and paid

by time, and that they are not helped by the girls and women of their

families, who in the factories are quite as useful and important as

the rougher sex. They correspond also to the "pitmen" of collieries,

and to journeymen labourers in general. Most of them are Irish--as

many, it is said, as nine-tenths of the 30,000--and as usual with that

race of people, they have their homes near together. These are chiefly

in the district including Scotland Road, where a very different scene

awaits the tourist. Faction-fights are the established recreation; the

men engage in the streets, the women hurl missiles from the roofs of

the houses. Liverpool has a profoundly mournful as well as a brilliant

side: Canon Kingsley once said that the handsomest set of men he had

ever beheld at one view was the group assembled within the quadrangle

of the Liverpool Exchange: the Income-tax assessment of Liverpool

amounts to nearly sixteen millions sterling: the people claim to be

"Evangelical" beyond compare; and that they have intellectual power

none will dispute:--behind the scenes the fact remains that nowhere in

our island is there deeper destitution and profounder spiritual

darkness.[11] When the famished and ignorant have to be dealt with, it

is better to begin with supply of good food than with aëriform

benedictions. Lady Hope (_née_ Miss Elizabeth R. Cotton) has shown

that among the genuine levers of civilisation there are none more

substantial than good warm coffee and cocoa. Liverpool, fully

understanding this, is giving to the philanthropic all over England a

lesson which, if discreetly taken up, cannot fail to tell immensely on

the morals, as well as the physical needs, of the poor and destitute.

All along the line of the docks there are "cocoa-shops," some of them

upon wheels, metallic tickets, called "cocoa-pennies," giving access.

[10] For the derivation of this curious word, see _Notes and

Queries_, Sixth Series, vol. ii. pp. 365 and 492. 1880.

[11] Vide _The Dark Side of Liverpool_, by the Rev. R. H.

Lundie, _Weekly Review_, 20th November 1880, p. 1113.

Liverpool is a town of comparatively modern date, being far younger

than Warrington, Preston, Lancaster, and many another which

commercially it has superseded. The name does not occur in Domesday

Book, compiled A.D. 1086, nor till the time of King John does even

the river seem to have been much used. English commerce during the era

of the Crusades did not extend beyond continental Europe, the

communications with which were confined to London, Bristol, and a few

inconsiderable places on the southern coasts. Passengers to Ireland

went chiefly by way of the Dee, and upon the Mersey there were only a

few fishing-boats. At the commencement of the thirteenth century came

a change. The advantages of the Mersey as a harbour were perceived,

and the fishing village upon the northern shore asked for a charter,

which in 1207 was granted. Liverpool, as a borough, is thus now in its

685th year. That this great and opulent city should virtually have

begun life just at the period indicated is a circumstance of no mean

interest, since the reign of John, up till the time of the barons'

gathering at Runnymede, was utterly bare of historical incident, and

the condition of the country in general was poor and depressed.

Coeur de Lion, the popular idol, though scarcely ever seen at home,

was dead. John, the basest monarch who ever sat upon the throne of

England, had himself extinguished every spark of loyal sentiment by

his cruel murder of Prince Arthur. Art was nearly passive, and

literature, except in the person of Layamon, had no existence. Such

was the age, overcast and silent, in which the foundations of

Liverpool were laid: contemplating the times, and all that has come of

the event, one cannot but think of acorn-planting in winter, and

recall the image in _Faust_,--

"Ein Theil der Finsterniss die sich das Licht gebar."

(Part of the darkness which brought forth Light!)

[Illustration: ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH, LIVERPOOL]

The growth of the new borough was for a long period very slow. In

1272, the year of the accession of Edward I., Liverpool consisted of

only 168 houses, occupied (computing on the usual basis) by about 840

people; and even a century later, when Edward III. appealed to the

nation to support him in his attack upon France, though Bristol

supplied twenty-four vessels and 800 men, Liverpool could furnish no

more than one solitary barque with a crew of six. It was shortly after

this date that the original church of "Our Lady and St. Nicholas" was

erected. Were the building, as it existed for upwards of 400 years,

still intact, or nearly so, Liverpool would possess no memorial of the

past more attractive. But in the first place, in 1774, the body was

taken down and rebuilt. Then, in 1815, the same was done with the

tower, the architect wisely superseding the primitive spire with the

beautiful lantern by which St. Nicholas's is now recognised even from

the opposite side of the water. Of the original ecclesiastical

establishment all that remains is the graveyard, once embellished with

trees, and in particular with a "great Thorne," in summer white and

fragrant, which the tasteless and ruthless old rector of the time was

formally and most justly impeached for destroying "without leave or

license." Wilful and needless slaying of ornamental trees, such as no

money can buy or replace, and which have taken perhaps a century or

more to grow, is always an act of ingratitude, if not of the nature of

a crime, and never less excusable than when committed on consecrated

ground. The dedication to St. Nicholas shows that the old Liverpool

townsfolk were superstitious, if not pious. It is St. Nicholas who on

the strength of the legend is found in Dibdin as "the sweet little

cherub"--

"that sits up aloft,

And takes care of the life of poor Jack."

Up to 1699 the building in question was only the "chappell of

Leverpoole," the parish in which the town lay being Walton.

In 1533, or shortly afterwards, temp. Henry VIII., John Leland visited

Liverpool, which he describes as being "a pavid Towne," with a

castle, and a "Stone Howse," the residence of the "Erle of Derbe." He

adds, that there was a small custom-house, at which the dues were paid

upon linen-yarn brought from Dublin and Belfast for transmission to

Manchester[12]. A fortunate circumstance it has always been for

Ireland that she possesses so near and ready a customer for her

various produce as wealthy Liverpool. Fifty years later, Camden

describes the town as "neat and populous"--the former epithet needing

translation; and by the time of Cromwell the amount of shipping had

nearly doubled: the Mersey, it hardly needs saying, is the natural

westward channel for the commerce of the whole of the active district

which has Manchester for its centre, and the value of this was now

fast becoming apparent. By the end of the sixteenth century south-east

Lancashire was becoming distinguished for its productive power. A

large and constantly increasing supply of manufactures adapted for

export implied imports. The interests of Manchester and Liverpool soon

declared themselves alike. Of no two places in the world can it be

said with more truth, that they have "lived and loved together,

through many changing years"; though it may be a question whether

they have always "wept each other's tears." In addition to the impulse

given to shippers by extended manufacturing, the captains who sailed

upon the Irish Sea found in the Mersey their securest haven, the more

so since the Dee was now silting up--a misfortune for once so favoured

Chester which at last threw it commercially quite into the shade. The

Lune was also destined to lose in favour: an event not without a

certain kind of pathos, since cotton was imported into Lancaster long

before it was brought to Liverpool. Conditions of all kinds being so

happy, prosperity was assured. Liverpool had now only to be thankful,

industrious, honest, and prudent.

[12] _Itinerary_, vol. vii. p. 40. Oxford, 1711.

Singular to say, in the year 1635 Liverpool was not thought worthy of

a place in the map of England. In Selden's _Mare Clausum, seu de

Dominio Maris_ there is a map in which Preston, Wigan, Manchester, and

Chester, are all set down, but, although the Mersey lies in readiness,

there is no Liverpool!

The period of the Restoration was particularly eventful. The Great

Plague of 1665 and the Great Fire of 1666 led to a large migration of

Londoners into Lancashire, and especially to Liverpool, trade with the

North American "Plantations," and with the sugar-producing islands of

the Caribbean Sea, being now rapidly progressive. Contemporaneously

there was a flocking thither of younger sons of country squires, who,

anticipating the Duke of Argyll of to-day, saw that commerce is the

best of tutors. From these descended some of the most eminent of the

old Liverpool families. The increasing demand for sugar in England

led, unfortunately, to sad self-contamination. Following the example

of Bristol, Liverpool gave itself to the slave-trade, and for

ninety-seven years, 1709 to 1806, the whole tone and tendency of the

local sentiment were debased by it. The Roscoes, the Rathbones, and

others among the high-minded, did their best to arouse their brother

merchants to the iniquity of the traffic, and to counteract the moral

damage to the community; but mischief of such a character sinks deep,

and the lapse of generations is required to efface it entirely. Mr. W.

W. Briggs considers that the shadow is still perceptible.[13] Politely

called the "West India trade," no doubt legitimate commerce was bound

up with the shocking misdeed, but the kernel was the same. It began

with barter of the manufactures of Manchester, Sheffield, and

Birmingham, for the negroes demanded, first, by the sugar-planters,

and afterwards, in Virginia, for the tobacco-farms. Infamous fraud

could not but follow; and a certain callousness, attributable in part

to ignorance of the methods employed, was engendered even in those who

had no interest in the results. When George III. was but newly

crowned, slaves of both sexes were at times openly sold by

advertisement in Liverpool! Money was made fast by the trade in human

beings, and many men accumulated great fortunes, memorials of which it

would not be hard to find. All this, we may be thankful, is now done

with for ever. To recall the story is painful but unavoidable, since

no sketch of the history of Liverpool can be complete without

reference to it. There is no need, however, to dwell further upon it.

Escape always from the thought of crime as soon as possible. Every

one, at all events, must acknowledge that, notwithstanding the outcry

by the interested that the total ruin of Liverpool, with downfall of

Church and State, would ensue upon abolition, the town has done better

without the slave-trade.

[13] Vide _Liverpool Mercury_, 11th December 1880.

The period of most astonishing expansion has been that which, as in

Manchester, may be termed the strictly modern one. The best of the

public buildings have been erected within the memory of living men.

Most of the docks have been constructed since 1812. The first

steamboat upon the Mersey turned its paddles in 1815. The first steam

voyage to New York commemorates 1838. In Liverpool, it should not be

forgotten, originated directly afterwards the great scheme which gave

rise to the "Peninsular and Oriental," upon which followed in turn the

Suez Railway, and then the Suez Canal. The current era has also

witnessed an immense influx into Liverpool of well-informed American,

Canadian, and continental merchants, Germans particularly. These have

brought (and every year sees new arrivals) the habits of thought, the

special views, and the fruits of the widely diverse social and

political training peculiar to the respective nationalities.

[Illustration: THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, LIVERPOOL]

A very considerable number of the native English Liverpool merchants

have resided, sometimes for a lengthened period, in foreign countries.

Maintaining correspondence with those countries, having connections

one with another all over the world, they are kept alive to everything

that has relation to commerce. They can tell us about the harvests in

all parts of the world, the value of gold and silver, and the

operation of legal enactments. Residence abroad supplies new and more

liberal ideas, and enables men to judge more accurately. The result

is that, although Liverpool, like other places, contains its full

quota of the incurably ignorant and prejudiced, the spirit and the

method of the mercantile community are in the aggregate thoughtful,

inviting, and enjoyable. The occupations of the better class of

merchants, and their constant consociation with one another, require

and develop not only business powers, but the courtesies which

distinguish gentlemen. A stamp is given quite different from that

which comes of life spent habitually among "hands";[14] the impression

upon the mind of the visitor is that, whatever may be the case

elsewhere, in Liverpool ability and good manners are in partnership.

And this not only in commercial transactions: the characteristics

observable in office hours reappear in the privacy of home.

[14] In Liverpool, strictly speaking, there are _no_ "hands," no

troops of workpeople, that is to say, young and old, male and

female, equivalent as regards relation to employer to the

operatives of Oldham and Stalybridge.

The description of business transacted in Liverpool is almost peculiar

to the place. After the shipbuilders and the manufacturers of shipping

adjuncts, chain-cables, etc., there are few men in the superior

mercantile class who produce anything. Liverpool is a city of agents.

Its function is not to make, but to transfer. Nearly every bale or box

of merchandise that enters the town is purely _en route_. Hence it

comes that Liverpool gathers up coin even when times are "bad."

Whether the owner of the merchandise eventually loses or gains,

Liverpool has to be paid the expenses of the passing through. Much of

the raw material that comes from abroad changes hands several times

before the final despatch, though not by any means through the

ordinary old-fashioned processes of mere buying and selling. In the

daily reports of the cotton-market a certain quantity is always

distinguished as bought "upon speculation." The adventurous do not

wait for the actual arrival of the particular article they devote

their attention to. Like the Covent Garden wholesale fruitmen, who

risk purchase of the produce of the Kentish cherry-orchards while the

trees are only in bloom, the Liverpool cotton brokers deal in what

they call "futures."

Another curious feature is the problematical character of every man's

day. The owner of a cotton-mill or an iron-foundry proceeds, like a

train upon the rails, according to a definite and preconcerted plan. A

Liverpool foreign merchant, when leaving home in the morning, is

seldom able to forecast what will happen before night. Telegrams from

distant countries are prone to bring news that changes the whole

complexion of affairs. The limitless foreign connections tend also to

render his sympathies cosmopolitan rather than such as pertain to

old-fashioned citizens pure and simple. Once a day at least his

thoughts and desires are in some far-away part of the globe. Broadly

speaking, the merchants, like their ships in the river, are only at

anchor in Liverpool. The owner of a "works" must remain with his

bricks and mortar; the Liverpool merchant, if he pleases, can weigh

and depart. Though the day is marked by conjecture, it is natural to

hope for good. Hence much of the sprightliness of the Liverpool

character--the perennial uncertainty underlying the equally

well-marked disposition to "eat, drink, and be merry, for to-morrow we

die," or, at all events, may die. This in turn seems to account for

the high percentage of shops of the glittering class and that deal in

luxuries. Making their money in the way they do, the Liverpool people

care less to hoard it than to indulge in the spending. How open-handed

they can be when called upon is declared by the sums raised for the

Bishopric and the University College. In proportion, they have more

money than other people, the inhabitants of London alone excepted. The

income-tax assessment has already been mentioned as nearly sixteen

millions. The actual sum for the year ending 5th April 1876 was

£15,943,000, against Manchester, £13,907,000, Birmingham, £6,473,884,

London, £50,808,000. The superiority in comparison with Manchester may

come partly, perhaps, of certain firms in the last-named place

returning from the country towns or villages where their "works" are

situated. Liverpool is self-contained, Manchester is diffused.

[Illustration: ST. GEORGE'S HALL, LIVERPOOL]

Liverpool may well be proud of her public buildings. Opinions differ

in regard to the large block which includes the Custom-house, commonly

called "Revenue Buildings"; but none dispute the claim of the

sumptuous edifice known as St. George's Hall to represent the

architecture of ancient Greece in the most successful degree yet

attained in England. The eastern façade is more than 400 feet in

length; at the southern extremity there is an octostyle Corinthian

portico, the tympanum filled with ornament. Strange, considering the

local wealth and the local claim of a character for thoroughness and

taste, that this magnificent structure should be allowed to remain

unfinished, still wanting, as it does, the sculptures which formed an

integral part of Mr. Elmes' carefully considered whole. Closely

adjacent are the Free Library and the new Art Gallery, and, in Dale

Street, the Public Offices, the Townhall, and the Exchange, which is

arcaded. Among other meritorious buildings, either classical or in the

Italian palazzo style, we find the Philharmonic Hall and the Adelphi

Hotel. The Free Library is one of the best-frequented places in

Liverpool. The number of readers exceeded in 1880, in proportion to

the population, that of every other large town in England where a Free

Library exists. In Leeds, during the year ending at Michaelmas, the

number was 648,589; in Birmingham, 658,000; in Manchester, 958,000; in

Liverpool, 1,163,795. In the Reference Department the excess was

similar, the issues therefrom having been in Liverpool one-half; in

Leeds and Birmingham, two-fifths; in Manchester, one-fifth. The

Liverpool people seem apt to take advantage of their opportunities of

every kind. When the Naturalists' Field Club starts for the country,

the number is three or four times greater in proportion to the whole

number of members than in other places where, with similar objects,

clubs have been founded. Many, of course, join in the trips for the

sake of the social enjoyment; whether as much work is accomplished

when out is undecided. They are warm supporters also of literary and

scientific institutions, the number of which, as well as of

societies devoted to music and the fine arts, is in Liverpool

exceptionally high. At the last "Associated Soirée," the Presidents of

no fewer than fifteen were present. Educational, charitable, and

curative institutions exist in equal plenty. It was Liverpool that in

1791 led the way in the foundation of Asylums for the Blind. The

finest ecclesiastical establishment belongs to the Catholics, who in

Liverpool, as in Lancashire generally, have stood firm to the faith of

their fathers ever since 1558, and were never so powerful a body as at

present. The new Art Gallery seems to introduce an agreeable prophecy.

Liverpool has for more than 140 years striven unsuccessfully to give

effect to the honourable project of 1769, when it sought to tread in

the steps of the Royal Academy, founded a few months previously. There

are now fair indications of rejuvenescence, and, if we mistake not,

there is a quickening appreciation of the intrinsically pure and

worthy, coupled with indifference to the qualities which catch and

content the vulgar--mere bigness and showiness. Slender as the

appreciation may be, still how much more precious than the bestowal of

patronage, in ostentation of pocket, beginning there and ending there,

which all true and noble art disdains.

[Illustration: THE EXCHANGE, LIVERPOOL]

Liverpool must not be quitted without a parting word upon a feature

certainly by no means peculiar to the town, but which to the observant

is profoundly interesting and suggestive. This consists in the through

movement of the emigrants, and the arrangements made for their

departure. Our views and vignettes give some idea of what may be seen

upon the river and on board the ships. But it is impossible to render

in full the interesting spectacle presented by the strangers who come

in the first instance from northern Europe. These arrive, by way of

Hull, chiefly from Sweden and Denmark, and, to a small extent, from

Russia and Germany--German emigrants to America usually going from

their own ports, and by way of the English Channel. Truly astonishing

are the piles of luggage on view at the railway stations during the

few hours or days which elapse before they go on board. While waiting,

they saunter about the streets in parties of six or eight, full of

wonder and curiosity, but still impressing every one with their honest

countenances and inoffensive manners and behaviour. There are very few

children among these foreigners, most of whom appear to be in the

prime of life, an aged parent now and then accompanying son or

daughter. In 1880 there left Liverpool as emigrants the prodigious

number of 183,502. Analysis gave--English, 74,969; Scotch, 1811;

Irish, 27,986; foreigners, 74,115.

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