This antimacassar is a sort of bag, slipped over the top of the chair.

The front is ornamented either with braid run on, or with chain stitch,

the latter being rather the most work; but having a far better effect

than the former. The initials we have selected are given to show the

way in which _any_ initials may be arranged for the centre. The pattern

for the border is given in the engraving with the utmost accuracy, but

requires, of course, to be greatly enlarged, and marked on the muslin.

The width of the antimacassar, at the widest part, is 26 inches; a

margin is left beyond the border, of about one inch, and the depth is

eighteen inches. The back of the antimacassar may be of either worked

or plain muslin. The two tucks are run together, near the edges, on

the wrong side, then turned on the right, and a row of chain-stitch

worked at the extreme edge. All the border is done with one shade of

the Shetland wool; but the monogram should be in two or three shades,

according to the number of letters, each letter being done in one

shade. When the muslin is braided, one shade only need be employed.

The Russian mohair braid is the best adapted for this purpose; it

washes well, and is easily put on; but the chain-stitch is certainly

prettier. Marked muslin may be readily finished for either oblong or

oval antimacassars; and those who wish it, can have any initials marked

for them.

THE BORDER.--Take a bone mesh half an inch wide, and do a

strip of common diamond netting, wide enough for the border of the

antimacassar. Do four plain rows, and in the fifth work three stitches

in one. In the sixth row, take three stitches together. Repeat these

two rows, and knot a handsome fringe in the loops of the last.

The border is composed entirely of Berlin wool; the depth of the fringe

is four inches.

Our readers will be glad to learn the proper way of knotting fringe.

Wind the wool on cotton as often as you may wish, round a card of

any given width, and slip it carefully off, without cutting either

end. Draw all the loops of one edge through the loops of netting,

sufficiently far to allow the loops of the other edge to be drawn

through them, and tightly pulled. The ends must then be cut.

* * * * *

WATCH-POCKET.

BRODERIE EN LACET.

(_See Plate in front of Book._)

_Materials._--One-quarter of a yard of maroon satin; two yards of

ribbon to match, an inch and a quarter wide; a knot of the narrowest

blue silk Russia braid; a hank of gold beads; four knots of gold

thread, No. 0; and some blue sewing silk.

BRODERIE EN LACET is the term applied to the new kind of

embroidery. The outlines are done with silk braid, in the ordinary

braiding style, and then the flowers, leaves, &c., are filled in with

point lace stitches, usually done in silk the color of the braid. In

the design before us, a fine gold thread is laid on the _outer_ edge of

the braid, and some of the spots are also worked in this material.

Each watch-pocket has two patterns, one for the front, which forms the

pocket, the other for that part of the back which is seen above the

pocket.

The pattern may be drawn from the engraving, or a pounced paper may be

purchased. The design being marked on the satin, is to be braided and

then worked according to the engraving. At the edge, a row of sorrento,

in blue silk, with a gold bead dropped in every long stitch, makes a

very pretty finish. The lining of the pocket must be wadded, and the

back must have a piece of card-board between the satin and the lining.

Finish with satin ribbon bows.

[Illustration: PATTERNS FOR EMBROIDERY.]

EDITORS' TABLE.

"Why in this work did the creation rest,

But that eternal Providence thought you best

Of all his six days' labor? Beasts should do

Homage to man, but man should wait on you."

RANDOLPH'S "_Praise of Women_."

The assertions of the poet are, in a general sense, true, because

they harmonize with the declarations of Holy Writ. Men should provide

for women; the hard work of the world belongs, with the government of

the world, to men; the "household good," the education of the young,

the gentle and spiritual influences that humanize man and harmonize

society, are the appropriate work of women. When the good time comes,

feminine value will be appreciated as highly as feminine virtues, and

the last are now the basis and the glory of Christian life. But the

good time is not fully come even in our happy land, therefore many

women are yet obliged to toil for their own support. Some mothers

have to maintain their little children, other women must provide for

parents and those who helplessly depend on them. For these reasons, it

is necessary that every young woman in our land should be qualified

by some accomplishment which she may teach, or some art or profession

she can follow, to support herself creditably, should the necessity

occur. If the trial of self-exertion never comes, women will be better

qualified by such useful education for their happiest position, that of

presiding over, guiding, and adorning the well-ordered home.

These educational views, that we have always held and urged on our

readers, are now fast becoming the fashion and rule in society. We

are happy to note the change--to find grave men, whose experience of

life is practical wisdom, uniting in plans to promote the usefulness

of woman's talents. Give her education and opportunity, let it be seen

by actual trial what she can learn and what she can do, then a true

estimate of the best means of promoting and insuring the happiness of

humanity may be made.

Among the various plans for woman's advantage, adopted in our country

within the past five years, three are most worthy of note, viz.,

opening "Female Medical Colleges," "Schools of Design for Women,"

and "Schools to Teach the Art of Type-setting." The first and most

important of these we have often and zealously advocated and described

in our "Book." We shall continue to uphold Female Medical Education as

one of the best and most important advantages for woman and for the

race. Now, however, we will give some account of another excellent

improvement.

* * * * *

_The Philadelphia School of Design for Women._--This school, the first

of the kind in America, was founded by Mrs. Sarah Peter, 1848. It is

now an incorporated institution, with a Board of gentlemen Managers,

from among the most eminent citizens of Philadelphia, and a Board of

lady Assistant Managers, who attend to the internal affairs of the

school, the admission of pupils, their deportment, proficiency, &c.

"The changes of the last few years," says the editor of a religious

paper, "have deprived woman of some of the sources of employment

and supply which tended to her comfort, and are bringing her into a

state of dependence upon man, such as is not compatible with her best

interests. New sources of employment, consistent with her nature, are

to be sought out, by which her usefulness may be increased, her comfort

promoted, and her true dignity maintained. One of these will be found

opened by the School of Design.

"The pupils are employed in drawing and coloring, in copying and in

producing original patterns, and on lithographs and wood-engravings.

The products of their industry are used by our manufacturers of

cotton prints, delaines, and paper hangings, and by the publishers of

ornamented books and periodicals. Hitherto, the Schools of Design in

France have enabled that country to lay the world under contribution

for tasteful fabrics. We hope that Philadelphia will encourage an

enterprise from which both city and country will derive a benefit.

"Several specimens of the skill of the pupils are now, we understand,

on exhibition in the Crystal Palace."

Thus our readers will see that this noble institution for the

development of woman's talents is sustained by the good will and

good offices of men. An endowment of $50,000 is in hopeful progress;

when that is obtained, as it surely will be in this rich city,

the Philadelphia School of Design will become the model for such

institutions in every section of our land.

About ten thousand children of both sexes, from the _working classes_,

are said to be now under this art instruction in the city of Paris;

probably twice that number of scholars are in the different Schools

of Design throughout France. But, then, it is about two hundred years

since their first school of decorative art was established.

The first school of the kind in England was opened about twenty years

ago, through the exertions of Lord Sidmouth. Now there are many

institutions of the kind, and thousands of English girls and young

women engaged in the study and practice of designing, drawing, &c. We

trust that, in a very few years, thousands of our young and talented

countrywomen will be emulating, if not excelling the taste, beauty, and

perfectness shown by Europeans in every branch of decorative art.

* * * * *

INFLUENCE OF FEMALE EDUCATION IN GREECE.--Our readers are

aware, probably, that a Mission School for the instruction of girls was

established in Athens, Greece, some twenty-five years ago. At the head

of this school were the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Hill. Under their care, about

five thousand young women have received instruction. In a recent letter

from Rev. Dr. Hill to the Foreign Mission, he thus describes the effect

of this education:--

"Our prospects for the ensuing season of missionary labor were never

more encouraging; on every side we witness the fruit of our twenty

years' toil, in the improved religious and moral character of those

around us. Some of these have received their training in our schools,

and have carried with them the principles they were taught by us into

their own domestic and social circles. They are scattered over the

whole of Greece. Very pleasing accounts are continually being brought

to our ears by American and English travellers who visit the Morea, the

islands and the provinces of northern Greece, regarding those who were

_once our pupils, and are now mothers of families_. But the influence

of our principles and our instructions is not confined to those

only who were brought up under our immediate care. The 'leaven has

leavened,' if not the whole, at least a large 'lump,' and the effect of

our labors, it may be said with great truth, is visible to a greater

or less degree among the whole community. There is no end to the

applications we have for admission to the privileges of our schools,

nor are there any bounds to the facilities we have for preaching the

Gospel freely, and for the dissemination of the Word of God, and of

religious and other useful tracts. Under my own roof, I assemble twenty

indoor pupils from the age of six to eighteen, with my own family, for

morning and evening worship, and for religious instruction; and our

outdoor pupils, when our schools shall be reopened, will outnumber four

hundred. I have just added five more rooms in a contiguous building

to those hitherto devoted to our missionary schools; and, if I could

obtain a much larger space, or could afford the outlay, we could fill

every portion of it."

* * * * *

READING WITHOUT IMPROVEMENT.--"Some ladies, to whose

conversation I had been listening, were to take away an epic poem to

read. 'Why should _you_ read an epic poem?' I said to myself. 'You

might as well save yourselves the trouble.' How often I have been

struck at observing that _no effect at all_ is produced, by the noblest

works of genius, on the _habits_ of thought, sentiment, and talk of

the generality of readers; their mental tone becomes no deeper, no

mellower; they are not equal to a fiddle, which improves by being

repeatedly played upon. I should not expect one in twenty, of even

educated readers, so much as to _recollect_ one singularly sublime, and

by far the noblest part, of the poem in question: so little emotion

does anything awake, even in the moment of reading; if it did, they

would not forget it so soon."

So says good, sensible John Foster, whose thoughts are always as clear

and pure as rock water. There is another sentiment of his we should

like to have read and remembered, too, by those who are soon to be

married:--

* * * * *

LOVE--HOW TO SECURE IT.--"I have often contended that

attachments between friends and lovers cannot be secured strong, and

perpetually augmenting, except by the intervention of some interest

which is not _personal_, but which is common to them both, and towards

which their attentions and passions are directed with still more

animation than even towards each other. If the whole attention is to

be directed, and the whole sentimentalism of the heart concentrated

on each other; if it is to be an unvaried, '_I towards you, and you

towards me_,' as if each were to the other not an ally or companion

joined to pursue happiness, but the very end and object--happiness

itself; if it is the circumstance of reciprocation itself, and not what

is reciprocated, that is to supply perennial interest to affection; if

it is to be mind still reflecting back the gaze of mind, and reflecting

it again, cherub towards cherub, as on the ark, and no luminary or

glory between them to supply beams and warmth to both--I foresee that

the hope will disappoint, the plan will fail. Attachment must burn in

oxygen, or it will go out; and, by oxygen, I mean a mutual admiration

and pursuit of virtue, improvement, utility, the pleasures of taste,

or some other interesting concern, which shall be the element of their

commerce, and make them love each other not only _for_ each other, but

as devotees to some third object which they both adore. The affections

of the soul will feel a dissatisfaction and a recoil, if, as they go

forth, they are entirely intercepted and stopped by any object that is

not _ideal_; they wish rather to be like rays of light glancing on the

side of an object, and then sloping and passing away; they wish the

power of elongation, through a series of interesting points, on towards

infinity."

* * * * *

PUBLIC LIBERALITY.--The State of New York, which has expended,

from time to time, upwards of half a million of dollars in the

advancement of medical education, has more recently divided thirty

thousand dollars between the two Medical Colleges at Albany and Geneva.

Would it not be better to devote a little money to educate those who

have the normal care of humanity in their hands--rather than give

all to those who are preparing to cure its diseases? Women are the

preservers of infancy, they form the physical constitution of their

children; give women that knowledge of the laws of health which their

duties require, and one-half the present number of male physicians

might be spared.

* * * * *

A RULING PASSION.--I have the highest opinion of the value of

a _ruling passion_; but if this passion monopolizes all the man, it

requires that the object be a very comprehensive or a very dignified

one, to save him from being ridiculous. The devoted _antiquary_,

for instance, who is passionately in love with an old coin, an old

button, or an old nail, is ridiculous. The man who is _nothing but_ a

musician, and recognizes nothing in the whole creation but crotchets

and quavers, is ridiculous. So is the _nothing but_ verbal critic, to

whom the adjustment of a few insignificant particles in some ancient

author, appears a more important study than the grandest arrangements

of politics or morals. Even the total devotee to the grand science

_Astronomy_, incurs the same misfortune. Religion and morals have a

noble pre-eminence here; no man or woman can become ridiculous by his

or her passionate devotion to _them_; even a _specific_ direction of

this passion will make a man sublime--witness _Howard_; _specific_,

I say, and correctly, though, at the same time, _any_ large plan of

benevolence must be comprehensive, so to speak, of a large quantity of

morals.

* * * * *

HE who administers medicine to the sad heart in the shape of

wit and humor, is most assuredly a good Samaritan. A cheerful face is

nearly as good for an invalid as healthy weather. To make a sick man

think he is dying, all that is necessary is to look half dead yourself.

Open, unrestrained merriment is a safety-valve to the heart and

disposition. If overburdened with the noxious gases of care, pull the

string of wit, up flies the valve of fun, and out go the troubles and

vexations of life to the four winds of heaven.

* * * * *

TO CORRESPONDENTS.--The following articles are accepted:

"The Linden," "The Song-Birds of Spring," "My Early Days," "To one

who Rests," "Cupid's Arrows," "Bury me in the Evening," "To an Absent

Dear One," "Some Thoughts on Training Female Teachers," "The Lily and

the Star" (the two other poems by the same writer are not wanted,

because we are overstocked with poetry), "Truth" (the other poem is not

accepted for want of room), "A Song," "I miss thee, Love," "The Young

Enthusiast," and "Love and Artifice."

The following articles are declined: "Letter from Eden," "The faded

bloom of Spring" (the poem is not without merit, but there are faults

of rhythm and rhyme which make it inadmissible), "True Friendship" (the

_acrostic_ Mr. Godey will give from his "Arm-Chair," and thanks Theresa

for her compliments, which are pleasant, though her poetry is not

perfect), "Sudden Death," "Exercise in the Morning," "A Long Story,"

"Arabella," "Sonnets," "The Old House," "Ages," "Seeing is _not_

Believing," and "Good-Bye."

Editors' Table-Drawer.

PICTURES FROM DANTE.

FAME.

"NOW must thou shake off sloth," my guide began,

"For not beneath rich canopies of state,

On beds of down, must fame be sought by man."

* * * * *

FIRMNESS.

FOLLOW thou me, nor heed what others say;

Be like a tower that stoopeth not its head,

Bellow the tempests fiercely as they may.

He in whose breast springs thought to thought succeeding,

Of his intent is ever frustrated--

The force of one the other's force impeding.

* * * * *

WORLDLINESS.

OH, the insensate labor men bestow

On worldly things! How weak those reasonings are

Which make them stoop their wings to earth below!

One was pursuing medicine; one a course

Of law; the church employed another's care;

One strove to rule by sophistry or force;

One was on wicked gains by fraud intent;

By merchandise another; this one given

To sensual joys; on ease another bent--

While I, from all these earthly cares relieved,

With Beatrice ascending into heaven,

Was in that sphere so gloriously received.

* * * * *

FEMINOLOGY.

ON account of the few lucrative employments that are left to

the female sex, and by consequence of the little opportunity they have

of adding to their income, daughters ought to be the particular objects

of a parent's care and foresight; and as an option of marriage, from

which they can reasonably expect happiness, is not presented to every

one who deserves it, especially in times when a licentious celibacy

is in fashion with the men, a father should endeavor to enable his

daughters to lead a single life with independency and decorum, even

though he subtract more for that purpose from the portions of his

sons than is agreeable to modern usage, or than they expect.--W.

PALEY, _Moral Philosophy_.

LADIES have sometimes distinguished themselves as prodigies of

learning. Many of the most eminent geniuses of the French nation have

been of the female sex. Several of our own countrywomen have also made

a respectable figure in the republic of letters.--C. BUCK,

_Miscellanies_.

EMERA was much displeased with her maid-servants. The occasion

of her displeasure was great and just, but she had not the spirit of

reproof. Criton happening to be in his closet, she went up and made

her complaint there. He entreated her to excuse him from the economy

of the kitchen and parlor: It was entirely under her dominion, and if

her maids were so culpable, she must reprove them sharply. "Alas!" said

she, "I cannot chide."--ISAAC WATTS, _Miscellanies_.

THE obvious designation of woman to a different sphere of

action and influence from that which is occupied by the stronger

sex, suggests the contemplation of excellencies which, though not

peculiar to herself, are delightfully appropriate to her character

and condition. There is a feeling of heart, a consciousness of

dependency, a natural and amiable timidity, a tenderness and kindness,

which unfit a woman for the rude and tumultuous occupations, and

which, while they assign to her a more retired sphere, as clearly

disclose those qualifications which constitute her true dignity and

glory.--GARDINER SPRING, _Sermon_.

THERE is not one sentiment I join you more cordially in, than

an utter detestation of all the heartless splendor and ceremony of

fashionable life; and I trust that my wife will never suffer herself to

be so seduced by the example of female acquaintances, and advisers, and

managers, as to step down from the dignified simplicity of a minister's

fireside, and mingle in all the extravagances of parties, and second

courses, and splendid drawing-rooms, and the whole tribe of similar

abominations.--THOMAS CHALMERS.

DEACONESSES.

THAT the peculiar gifts of the female sex might be made

available for the outward service of the Church, in rendering the

assistance of various kinds for which women are peculiarly fitted; the

office of Deaconess was established, in addition to that of Deacon, at

first in the churches of the Gentile Christians.--NEANDER,

_History of the Church_.

IT is well known that in the primitive Church there were

women particularly appointed for this work. Indeed, there was one or

more such in every Christian congregation under heaven. They were then

termed Deaconesses, that is, servants--servants of the Church and of

its Great Master. Such was Phœbe, mentioned by St. Paul, Rom. xvi. 1,

"A Deaconess of the Church at Cenchrea." It is true most of these were

women in years, and well experienced in the work of God. But were the

young wholly excluded from that service? No! neither need they be,

provided they know in whom they have believed, and show that they are

holy of heart, by being holy in all manner of conversation.--JOHN

WESLEY, _Sermons_, vol. ii. p. 335, N. Y. ed.

IGNATIUS, in writing to the Church at Antioch--of which he

himself was pastor--says: "Salute the Deaconesses in Christ Jesus."

Tertullian speaks particularly of a Deaconess who was of a very tender

age.[2] Their office was so respected, that a bishop was deposed for

having received into it a woman who had been excommunicated;[3] and it

often fell to their lot to share the glories of martyrdom with the most

holy confessors of the faith.[4]

How long this order continued in the Christian Church is not absolutely

certain. Up to the commencement of the fourth century it, however,

preserved itself free from abuses, but became corrupted in the fifth

and sixth, and ended by disappearing in the Latin Church in the eighth,

when the Papacy became finally constituted. In the Greek Church this

office continued several hundred years, and Deaconesses pursued their

self-denying service in the Christian Churches of Constantinople to

the close of the twelfth century.[5]--WM. A. PASSAVANT,

_Institution of Deaconesses_.

[Footnote 2: Tertull. vel. de virg.]

[Footnote 3: Sozam, lib. iv. c. 14.]

[Footnote 4: Plin. Ep. ad. Traj.]

[Footnote 5: Suicer, Thesaur, tom. i. p. 896.]

Literary Notices.

LIBERIA; _or, Mr. Peyton's Experiments_. Edited by Mrs. Sarah J. Hale,

author of "Woman's Record." etc. etc. The author has furnished us with

a copy of this work, which at once addresses itself to the good sense

and the good feelings of all persons who are sincerely interested in

Christian practical efforts to ameliorate and to elevate the condition

of the African race. We think it has been fully demonstrated in this

volume that the only sure plan for the attainment of those desirable

ends is that proposed, and, it may now be said, successfully carried

out by the American Colonization Society. In order to establish this

important truth, the author has been at great pains to present us

with the real character and condition of the negro while in a state

of slavery, and his improvidence and want of energy, as generally

exhibited, when set free and furnished with land in the midst of a

white population. The prejudices against which he has to contend in

our large cities, their paralyzing effects, and the wretchedness to

which he is often reduced in consequence, are also fully contrasted

with the independent and prosperous condition of those who have been

settled in Liberia, and who have raised themselves to a standard of

Christianity, civilization, statesmanship, and orderly government,

which might, indeed, be questioned, did not indisputable evidences of

their astonishing and successful progress accompany all the statements

of the author. This work, therefore, commends itself not only to the

attention of those who are anxious to benefit an unhappy race, but also

to the serious consideration of such of that race as have sufficient

intelligence to comprehend their true interests, and sufficient energy

to follow their dictates.

* * * * *

From J. S. REDFIELD, 110 and 112 Nassau Street, New York,

through W. B. ZIEBER, Philadelphia:--

ART AND INDUSTRY, _as Represented in the Exhibition of the Crystal

Palace, New York, 1853-4_. Showing the progress and state of various

useful and æsthetic pursuits. From the "New York Tribune." Revised and

corrected by Horace Greeley. This volume will very justly command the

attention of all who are interested in the progress of the arts, and in

the dissemination of useful knowledge among the people, objects which,

it is admitted, form the basis of all nationality and true civilization.

* * * * *

From THOMAS, COWPERTHWAIT, & CO., Philadelphia:--

A NEW HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. For the use of schools.

By John Lord, A. M., author of a "Modern History from the Times of

Luther to the Fall of Napoleon." This work is intended to meet the

necessity, which it is thought has long existed, for a new history of

the United States for the use of schools. The author has long been

known to the literary public as a close investigator of historical

subjects, and as a candid and impartial writer. In the volume before

us, as far as we have been able to judge, he has carefully adhered to

the truths of history, and has, at the same time, presented a clear

and forcible narrative of all the important events on record, from

the discovery of America down to the present times. As an elementary

work, we think it is calculated deeply to control the minds of youthful

readers, and to impress upon their memories the important incidents

connected with the progress of their country in the establishment of

freedom, and in the diffusion of knowledge, wealth, and independence

among the people.

NOVELS, SERIALS, PAMPHLETS, &c.

From S. Hueston, New York: "January and June: being Outdoor Thinkings

and Fireside Musings." By Benj. F. Taylor. Though not very striking or

original, these "thinkings" and "musings" will probably interest the

reader.

From Phillips, Sampson, & Co., Boston, through W. P. Hazard,

Philadelphia: "Bureliff; its Sunshine and its Clouds." By Paul Creyton,

author of "Father Brightness," "Hearts and Faces," etc. This is a very

interesting story by a favorite author.

From Ticknor, Reed, & Fields, Boston, through W. P. Hazard,

Philadelphia: "My two Sisters: a Sketch from Memory." By Emily Judson.

This is a most affecting family memorial, evincing the purity and

intensity of that love which submits to the influences of religion.

From Fetridge & Co., Boston, through T. B. Peterson, Philadelphia:

"Home Scenes and Home Sounds; or, the World from my Window." By H.

Marion Stephens. A very handsome and agreeable volume, containing

numerous poetical and prose articles from the pen of a popular

authoress.

From Phillips, Sampson, & Co., Boston, through T. B. Peterson,

Philadelphia: "Estelle's Stories about Dogs, for Good Boys and Girls."

"Little Mary; or, Talks and Tales for Children." By H. Trusta, author

of "The Sunny Side," etc. "Christmas Holidays at Chestnut Hill." By

Cousin Mary. Illustrated: "Little Blossom's Reward." A Christmas Book

for Children. By Mrs. Emily Hare. Illustrated. These pretty volumes

reached us too late for a seasonable notice. Such books, however, can

never be out of season with those for whom the authors have carefully

blended amusement with important lessons of morality.--"Viola; or,

Adventures in the Far South-West." By Emerson Bennett, author of the

"Forged Will," "Clara Moreland," etc. etc. Mr. Bennett is spirited, and

therefore a popular writer. His works are sought after and read with

the greatest avidity by the lovers of romance and wild and stirring

adventure.--"Indiana." By George Sand, author of "Consuelo," etc.

Translated by one of the best French scholars in this country, a member

of the Philadelphia bar.

From J. S. Redfield, Clinton Hall, New York, through W. B. Zieber,

Philadelphia: "Clovernook; or, Recollections of our Neighbors in the

West." Second series. By Alice Carey. A collection of very pleasant

stories from the pen of a lady whose talents have long since rendered

her name familiar to the public.--"Vasconselos: a Romance of the New

World." By Frank Cooper. This is a powerfully written romance, founded

on the adventures of De Soto, which we think deserving of more than

the usual attention paid to works of fiction. The style is energetic,

and the incidents and the plot, though the latter is not altogether

agreeable to our taste, are full of the spirit of the age and of the

characters represented.

From De Witt & Davenport, New York: "Hot Corn: Life Scenes in New

York." Illustrated. Including the "Story of Little Katy," "Madelina,"

"The Rag-Picker's Daughter," "Wild Maggie," &c. With original designs,

engraved by N. Orr. By Solon Robinson. These stories originally

appeared in the "New York Tribune," and attracted very general

attention. They have been published in a handsome volume, which has

generally received favorable notices from the press. Some, however,

have considered the morality, as well as the purity of its literature,

highly questionable.

From T. B. Peterson, 102 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia: "Henrietta

Temple: a Love Story." By B. D'Israeli, M. P., P. C. With a portrait of

the author. Price fifty cents.

Godey's Arm-Chair.

WE stated in our February number that we wanted just two

hundred subscribers to make even 10,000 more than we printed last year.

They have been received, and more than 3,000 in addition. We now go in

for 20,000 additional, and we know that we shall get them.

* * * * *

MODEL COTTAGES.--We give a very beautiful cottage in this

number, and shall continue to publish them almost monthly.

* * * * *

BREACH OF PROMISE CASE--NOT TO COME OFF.--The "Mauch Chunk

Gazette" says: "Godey promises one hundred pages in each number, and he

has never yet been indicted for '_breach of promise_.'"

* * * * *

WE do not want the gentlemen to read this paragraph. But,

ladies, did you ever see such superb fashion plates as we have been

publishing? Look at the one in this number. Paris can't surpass that.

They seem even to have excited to admiration our grave, but good

friends of the press. The "Mercer Whig" says: "The fashion plates given

in the 'Lady's Book' are worth the subscription price to any lady." The

"Plainfield Gazette" adds a remark which our vanity also induces us to

copy: "Godey is the greatest favorite with ladies amongst publishers,

and his fashion plates lead all other magazines." The "Ebensburg

Alleghanian" winds up with, "The fashion plates are graceful and

colored, superior to any that we have yet seen." And they and our other

embellishments shall surpass all others. By way of variety, we give in

this number a mezzotint engraving, which the graceful pen of Mrs. Neal

has illustrated--"_Selling the Wedding Ring or Love Token_."

* * * * *

THIRD EDITION.--We are now using our third edition, but,

foreseeing the great demand, we have kept ourselves supplied. Every

day's orders have been mailed within the twenty-four hours.

* * * * *

IS it economical for a family to take the "Lady's Book?"

that is the question. The "Brandon Republican," says "It is _decided

economy_ in any family to take it. The useful information to be derived

from it in a year is worth ten times the subscription."

* * * * *

PATTERNS, PATTERNS.--We shall have the most beautiful patterns

for spring wear that have ever been offered from this establishment.

Send on your orders soon, ladies.

* * * * *

BACHELORISM AGAIN.--One of them says: "Whatever amount of

'cooing' we may have in our honeymoon, we may be pretty sure of having

a fearful amount of bill-ing."

* * * * *

MERCHANT PRINCES AND STREET OF PALACES.--The splendid stores

of Morris, Hallowell, & Co., and Caleb Cope & Co., recently finished,

are the most splendid specimens of store architecture to be found in

the United States. They have recently been opened for public view, and

crowds of ladies and gentlemen have visited both establishments, and

been delighted with the varied and tasty arrangements so beautifully

conceived and admirably executed.

* * * * *

ARTHUR'S "Home Gazette" says:--

"'_The Book of the Toilet._' Philadelphia, Louis A. Godey The publisher

of the 'Lady's Book' has here supplied a want long felt. In a neatly

printed and bound miniature volume, readily transmissible by mail, we

have, separately treated, the following subjects: 'The Beauty of the

Skin,' 'The Care of the Skin,' 'The Toilet,' 'Recipes for Perfumes,'

'The Hair,' 'The Teeth,' 'Recipes for Soaps,' 'Pomatums,' 'Recipes for

Improving the Breath,' and 'Miscellaneous Recipes.' A 'Book of the

Toilet,' from one so experienced as the publisher of the 'Lady's Book,'

will, of course, be eagerly sought for by those for whose special use

it has been prepared."

* * * * *

A VERY DESPERATE JOKE.--Why should a gentleman, on paying a

visit to a widow, take her a supply of tobacco? Because he finds her in

weeds.

* * * * *

WE are happy to record the great success of Philadelphia

periodicals and newspapers. This has been the greatest season ever

known. "Godey's Lady's Book," "Arthur's Home Gazette," and "Arthur's

Home Magazine," have nearly doubled their editions of last year, while

"Graham's Saturday Mail," which was only started on the first of the

year, has a circulation nearly equal to the largest.

* * * * *

HAWLEY & Co., Perfumers, whose advertisement will be found in

our "Book," now take the lead in this city, and are the fashionable

perfumers. We have examined and tested their perfumery and fancy soaps,

both for ladies and gentlemen. Their shaving cream, gentlemen, what

a luxury! and the shaving compound military soap, and the ambrosial

tablet of concentrated cream, for shaving, neatly done up in little

boxes that you might carry in your waistcoat pocket--but these luxuries

for shaving are running away with us, and we are forgetting the ladies.

Well, ladies, they have for you lip salve--think of that--liquid hair

dye; but none of our subscribers will want that, they wear their hair

the color that nature made it. And then they have colognes, pomades,

bandolines, eau lustrale, oleate of roses for chapped hands, extracts

for the handkerchief, etc. And, elderly ladies, a word with you; that

is, if you have any vanity--we will whisper it--there is a certain

tonic lotion for restoring gray hair to its original color, and lots

of other articles, wholesale and retail, which we have not space to

mention.

* * * * *

A REMARKABLE case of table-talking lately took place. A

cabinet-maker was recommending a table to a lady as a very fine new

mahogany table. At which the table lifted itself up and exclaimed,

"Don't you believe him, ma'am; I'm veneered and second-hand."

* * * * *

"'ARTHUR'S HOME GAZETTE' FOR 1854.--We cheerfully recommend

this weekly to the public readers. Its past conduct proved it to be

one of the highest excellence, and we have good reasons to believe

that it will be so for the future. During the coming year 1854, Mr.

Arthur, the editor, will publish two original nouvellettes in the

columns of the 'Gazette,' one of which is entitled 'The Angel of the

Household.'"--_Flo. Democrat, Pensacola, Flo._

* * * * *

GARRETT & Co., of New York, have sent us "Mrs. Partington's

Carpet-bag of Fun." A funny book, from which we make the following

extracts:--

MODERN SCIENCE.--"Do you think people are troubled as much

with flea-bottomary now, doctor, as they used to be before they

discovered the anti-bug bedstead?" asked Mrs. Partington of a doctor

of the old school, who attended the family where she was staying.

"Phlebotomy, madam," said the doctor, gravely, "is a remedy, not a

disease." "Well, well," replied she; "no wonder one gets 'em mixed

up, there is so many of 'em; we never heard in old times of trousers

in the throat, or embargoes in the head, or neurology all over us, or

consternation in the bowels, as we do nowadays. But it's an ill wind

that don't blow nobody good, and the doctors flourish on it like a

green baize-tree. But of course they don't have anything to do with

it--they can't make 'em come or go."

MRS. PARTINGTON AT SEA.--"There's poor Hardy Lee called

again!" says Mrs. Partington on a trip to Boston. The wind was ahead,

and the vessel had to beat up, and the order to put the helm "hard a

lee" had been heard through the night. "Hardy Lee again! I declare;

I should think the poor creetur would be completely exaspirated with

fatigue; and I'm certain he hasn't eat a blessed mouthful of anything

all the while. Captain, do call the poor creetur down, or human natur

can't stand it."

SOUND LOGIC.--Mrs. Partington, on reading an account of a

schooner having her jib-boom carried away in Long Island Sound, one

night last week, wondered "why people would leave such things out o'

doors, nights, to be stolen, when they was so many buglers about,

filtering everything they could lay their hands to."

* * * * *

POPPING THE QUESTION.--A young lawyer, who had long paid his

addresses to a lady, without much advancing his suit, accused her one

day of being "insensible to the power of love."

"It does not follow," she archly replied, "that I am so, because I am

not to be won by the power of attorney."

"Forgive me," replied the suitor, "but you should remember that all the

votaries of Cupid are solicitors."

* * * * *

A LADY A JUDGE--AND WHY NOT?--The "Johnston Echo" says:

"Our wife--and our wife's a judge--says that Godey's fashion plate

embellishments, designs for embroidery, &c., are the very things which

ladies often need, and know not where to get." She _judges_ correctly,

too.

* * * * *

"'ARTHUR'S HOME MAGAZINE.'--This truly meritorious and

deservedly popular monthly periodical commences the new year with

decided claims to public favor, much improved in its embellishments

and well stored with a choice moral miscellany, rendering it worthy of

the _home_ for which it is admirably adapted. In short, the name of

its talented conductor alone is sufficient to secure for it a general

welcome. T. S. Arthur, Philadelphia, $2 a year."

* * * * *

RAPP'S GOLD PENS.--We have received orders for more than

one hundred of these pens. We repeat the terms, and also our hearty

assurance that they are the best gold pens we have ever used. Price of

pens, condor size, with a holder, $6; in a silver case, $7; swan-quill

size, with double extension silver cases, $4; goose-quill size,

suitable for ladies, with holders, as above, $3.

* * * * *

WYMAN, the magician, has been here delighting the people as

usual. He is also one of the best ventriloquists we have ever heard.

* * * * *

CHARLES OAKFORD'S FASHION PLATE FOR SPRING, 1854.--We present

our numerous patrons this month with this plate. We are pleased to

notice the originality of design which is here displayed. Oakford is

now at the head of his profession. He has infused more life and spirit

into his business than any other competitor in the United States. His

store is pronounced the most beautiful in the world, his stock the most

varied and extensive to be found anywhere. Oakford's success in his new

establishment is unprecedented, and he deserves it, for his liberal

spirit has spared no expense whatever to keep ahead in his branch of

business. Philadelphia should be proud of this, and we feel assured

they know how to appreciate him. We advise wholesale dealers to bear

his store in mind when they wish to purchase, as they will find hats

and caps of every grade as low as they can be purchased in any city in

the Union. We would also remind the ladies that they can procure the

finest quality of children's head gear of the most fashionable styles

at this establishment. We therefore proclaim success to Oakford!

* * * * *

THE bonnets published on our first page are from the extensive

establishment of Messrs. Thomas White & Co., who have the largest

bonnet establishment in the United States. It is from their extensive

manufactory in this city whence most of the fashions emanate. The

establishment in the city is, besides the manufacturing department,

also their sale-room, both wholesale and retail. Added to this, they

have "the Industrial Straw-Works at Roxborough," where an immense

number of bonnets are manufactured daily. They employ, in all, some

four hundred females. Here is a concern that gives employment in the

right kind of way. Think of four hundred females in one establishment!

They certainly deserve not only the thanks, but the united patronage

of all the subscribers to the "Book." Every description of silk,

lace, crape, straw, blonde, and fancy bonnets, of the latest style,

artificial flowers, French and American summer hats for gentlemen, in

all their variety--and it is unsurpassed, as they are importers as well

as manufacturers--can be found at this celebrated bonnet depot.

Their magnificent new store, erected on the site of their former stand,

No. 41 South Second Street, and the extensive stock, is now open to the

public, and it is a pleasure to visit it, to see how a business of such

extent can be carried on without there appearing anything like hurry or

confusion.

* * * * *

"GODEY'S 'BOOK OF BEAUTY,' No. 2.--Through the ever attentive

courtesy of Philadelphia's model magazineer, Louis A. Godey, Esq., we

were several weeks since made the recipient of his 'Parlor Gem,' No. 2,

consisting of some thirty exquisite engravings, all but two or three

of which are on steel, and are pictures of rare excellence and beauty.

We avail ourselves of the earliest opportunity to say to every one of

our friends and readers to send on your _fifty cents_ to L. A. Godey,

and get a _bijou_ that you would not sell again for $5."--_Ellsworth

Herald._

* * * * *

GENERAL AGENCY FOR PERIODICALS.--Many persons wishing to

subscribe for different publications do not like the trouble of writing

several letters. This may be obviated by sending the money to the

subscriber, who will attend to all orders punctually, whether for

publications monthly or weekly in this city or elsewhere.

Any information asked for by any of our subscribers we will cheerfully

give, if it is in our power.

We will attend to purchasing any goods that may be desired, and will

forward them at the lowest market price.

[Illustration: A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF BOARDMAN & GRAY'S MANUFACTORY,

ALBANY, N. Y.]

BOARDMAN & GRAY'S DOLCE CAMPANA ATTACHMENT PIANO-FORTES.

In our January and February numbers, we gave a detailed sketch of

piano-forte making, and selected, as the subject of our illustration,

the extensive establishment of Messrs. Boardman & Gray. We have

therefore deemed it desirable to present our readers with an exterior

view of this establishment. These buildings were completed about a year

since; and, at that time, it was supposed they would be sufficiently

large even for the extensive business designed to be carried on in

them. But so rapidly has the demand increased for their instruments,

that Messrs. Boardman & Gray will be obliged to add another wing to

their main building, and will thus be able to supply their orders with

additional promptness.

It is scarcely possible to overrate the excellence of their

piano-forte, with its Dolce Campana Attachment. As a parlor instrument,

it is, we believe, unrivalled. To those who appreciate rich, full, and

sweet sounds, rather than mere noise; to those who love an instrument

which seems, as it were, to respond to the feelings and passions of

the player--which can at one time delight the ear with its organ-like

tones, at another charm it with a melody so soft and tender as to start

the tear of the listener--it will need no commendation. The touch and

action of the instrument are faultless; the firmness, the lightness,

and the elasticity of the touch have won the praise of every pianist

who has used it. A marked feature in the instrument to which we are

alluding is its durability of tone, a result which, as we have already

shown, is due to its careful and methodical construction. In every

respect, it embodies within itself the conditions of the finest and

most reliable of instruments. We can therefore confidently commend it

to the reader.

* * * * *

SOME wretched bachelor concocted the following:--

A JURY OF FEMALES.--In the year 1693, the body of a female

was discovered in Newbury, under circumstances which rendered a

coroner's inquest desirable. A jury of twelve women was called, and a

copy of their verdict has been preserved. As it is about as lucid and

satisfactory as most modern verdicts, we copy it entire in the quaint

language of the period. It was as follows:--

"We judge according to our best light and contients, that the death

of said Elizabeth was not by any violence or wrong dun to her by any

person or thing, but by some soden stoping of her breath."

* * * * *

HOW true is the following. Read it, ye unhappy bachelor

editors, and follow the example of our friend French, of the

"Georgetown Herald," another convert to our doctrines. He has announced

to us that he has taken to himself a "helpmeet."

THE FEMALE TEMPER.--No trait of character is more agreeable

in a female than the possession of a sweet temper. Home can never be

happy without it. It is like the flowers that spring up in our pathway,

reviving and cheering us. Let a man go home at night, wearied and worn

by the toils of the day, and how soothing is a word dictated by a good

disposition! It is sunshine falling on his heart. He is happy, and the

cares of life are forgotten. A sweet temper has a soothing influence

over the minds of a whole family. Where it is found in the wife and

mother, you observe a kindness and love predominating over the natural

feelings of a bad heart. Smiles, kind words and looks, characterize the

children, and peace and love have their dwelling there. Study, then, to

acquire and retain a sweet temper.

* * * * *

THE cottage in this number is from Sloan's beautiful work on

architecture.

* * * * *

FROM an editor in South Carolina: "On my return home, I found

the pen you were so kind as to send me. I am very much pleased with

it, and again tender my thanks. I will soon send for another. I need

the best pens, or, as you see, my intentions or words could never be

communicated, at least in an intelligible manner." We congratulate you,

friend B., upon the marked improvement in your chirography.

* * * * *

WE copy the following from the "Evening Argus," fully

indorsing every particular of it, and especially that part speaking of

Mr. Purdy, whom we have, for the last thirty years, been pleased to

call our friend:--

"THE HOUSE PRINTING TELEGRAPH.--We observe, with real

satisfaction, the rapid extension of the House Printing Telegraph Lines

throughout the North and West; and in every instance where this means

of telegraphic communication is adopted it is pronounced the very

perfection of telegraphic inventions. The line recently established

between this city and New York, has now extended its branches through

all the Northern, Middle, and Western States, while many of these

lines, in the extent of their business, are among the most prosperous

in the country. The main line, from Washington to Boston, has recently

undergone many improvements, and the office in this city has been

removed to Harnden's Express Building, N. E. corner of Third and

Chestnut Streets, where quarters unsurpassed in accommodation and

comfort have been fitted up, new instruments introduced, &c., for the

purpose of more expeditiously accommodating the increasing patronage

which the knowledge of the advantages of this means of communication is

bringing upon the line.

"The lines between this city and New York, Baltimore, and Washington,

are now prepared to dispatch almost any amount of business; and their

active management being in the hands of gentlemen fully conversant

with the wants of the business community, we can commend the line to

the public with every confidence. The lines centering in this city are

under the immediate superintendence of J. H. Purdy, and every attention

which experience and sagacity can suggest is devoted to keeping them in

order for the dispatch of business. Mr. W. J. Phillips, the principal

in charge of the office, is a skilful and experienced operator, and

obliging gentleman, while all his assistants are capable, experienced,

and efficient, thus making the office--as indeed are all the offices--a

model in the prompt and accurate dispatch of business.

"The House instrument is unsurpassed in speed and accuracy of

communication, and its merits and advantages once understood, it must

come into general use with the telegraphing public."

* * * * *

WE thank the editor of the "Litchfield Republic" for the

following:--

"This is the 'Lady's Book' par excellence. We admire this work, for

the plain and simple reason that, like refined, polished, and virtuous

female society, it powerfully tends to improve the manners and mend the

heart."

* * * * *

THE "FLORIST'S AND HORTICULTURIST'S JOURNAL." Vol. 3, No.

1. H. C. Hanson, 63 Walnut Street, Philadelphia.--We have here the

best work upon floriculture and horticulture published in the United

States. Each number contains a beautifully colored engraving. In some

instances, these engravings are got up and colored in Paris. Price of

the work only $2 a year.

* * * * *

KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN.--Every one, however busy, however poor,

however humble, can greatly elevate and enrich himself by looking

around and suffering naught to escape his notice; and he will not only

enrich himself, but the whole world may be indebted to him for digging

from the rubbish of obscurity a gem to enrich mankind.

* * * * *

WE do not deem it improper to publish the following feeling

extract from a letter just received, as we give no names or date. It

is a credit to the heart of the writer: "Inclosed you will find twenty

dollars for the following club. The gentlemen say it is of no use

refusing to subscribe, as their wives consider it a 'woman's right' to

have the 'Book.' My own past year's experience has left me a _deserted

home_; yet I still wish it for myself, recollecting how well _she_

liked it who is now an angel in heaven."

* * * * *

CARD WRITING.--We beg leave to call the attention of our lady

friends to the fact that written cards are now more fashionable than

engraved; and, if they want a handsome pack written, or linen marked

in the most beautifully florid, or in a plain style, let them apply to

Martha A. Torrey, S. W. corner of Filbert and Eighteenth Streets.

* * * * *

THE "GERMANTOWN TELEGRAPH" has been enlarged and improved,

but only in its typographical appearance, the matter being already

perfect. We consider Major Freas a model editor, bold and fearless

in what is right, never lending his columns to anything of which he

does not approve. He ought to be in the city, where his power could

be felt. As an agricultural paper, the "Telegraph" stands first in

the State, the major himself being a practical farmer. He has taken

premiums upon several occasions, the last for some particular kind of

roosters--crowing ones, we believe; but the major is used to crowing,

the whole press having crowed upon the occasion of his enlargements and

improvements. Success to him! and may he always entertain a just sense

of his high position as the editor of one of the most popular papers in

the State, and not descend to become a candidate for governor. By the

way, major, we should like to see the first number of your paper, and,

until we do, we shall consider ourself as the oldest publisher.

* * * * *

WE ask attention to our new work, "How to Make a Dress." It

is by our Fashion Editor, and we think it will be useful to every one

of our lady subscribers. Orders for materials of all kinds, jewelry,

patterns, etc. etc., will be attended to, by inclosing a remittance to

L. A. Godey, Philadelphia.

* * * * *

WE will furnish any of the following from the establishment of

Mrs. Suplee, the originator of this style of patterns. But few persons

can imagine how complete they are in every respect, fit, trimming,

&c. At a little distance, they look like the real garment. The stock

and variety of patterns for ladies' dresses, cloaks, mantillas,

sacks, sleeves, and every article of ladies' and children's wear, are

unequalled in the United States. Every new design from Paris and London

is regularly received, so that persons wishing something new can always

be supplied. The patterns are cut in tissue paper, and trimmed as the

article is made.

Cloaks, Mantillas, Dress Bodies, Sleeves, Basques, Full Dress,

Children's Dresses, Basques, Sacks, and Aprons, Boys' Jackets and Pants.

In ordering patterns, please say if for ladies or children.

Address

FASHION EDITOR,

_Care of "Godey's Lady's Book," Phila._

* * * * *

PHILADELPHIA AGENCY

"Miss H. A. J."--Sent your gold pencil on the 16th.

"Miss M. T."--Wrote about hair, ear-rings and bracelet on 16th.

"Mrs. G. L. M."--Sent your package to Princeton, Ky., on the 19th.

"M. E. T."--Sent your order on the 10th.

"Julia Hope."--Will find the explanations of crochet terms in this

number.

"Mrs. P. E. H."--Sent apron patterns by mail on 21st.

"Mrs. S. M. B."--Sent your articles on the 21st.

"C. C. B."--Sent ear-rings on 21st by mail.

"Mrs. C. B."--Sent your piano on 12th by freight line, and sent you

bill of lading.

"Mrs. A. S. M."--Sent your bracelet on 22d by mail.

"M. C. S."--Cannot find any Evans's Boar's Head Cotton. "Geary's" is

said to be better. "Book of Crochet" is fifty cents.

"H. P. L."--Sent Eglantine patterns on 22d.

"Mrs. R. G. W."--Eglantine pattern sent on 22d.

"J. H."--Sent the Talma ornaments on 23d.

"Miss H. A. J."--Happy to hear that you are pleased with the Rapp pen.

Our own writing has been improved very much since we have used them.

"M. A. B."--Sent patterns on the 3d.

"D. T. P."--Sent Hungarian Circle on the 6th.

"L. M. S."--Let us know where school is, and we will send you an answer

there. The remittance was received, and the "Book" sent.

"Mrs. H. M. L."--Club received. The article upon rearing and training

Canary birds will appear in the April number.

"Old Subscriber."--We don't know where to look for designs for chairs

of worsted-work. Have never seen any. Should we find any will publish

them.

"Mrs. R. P."--Yes; we can furnish patterns of any of the fashions we

publish.

"Coralie."--We cannot help you. The gentlemen are mercenary, and, we

are assured, look more after money than accomplishments.

"Libbie" will find full explanations of all the crochet terms in this

number.

"C. A. W."--The F. of S. is the same as the common powdered, the

difference being that the first is passed through a very fine hair

sieve. For the white lily, substitute crystallized salt, reduced to

powder extremely fine.

"J. H."--Sent pattern 17th.

"J. P."--Sent Hungarian circle on the 16th.

"B. F. H."--Twenty-two cents postage due on the "Tracts."

"Stella's" letter not understood. Had she not better refer to the

publishers of the paper. Much obliged for her kind compliment to the

"Book."

"Fleda," Annapolis, Md.--Must write under her own name. Cannot answer

anonymous communications.

"Miss M. B."--Sent pattern on the 10th.

"Miss J. C. D."--Answered yours on the 10th.

"C. J. D."--Much obliged for the cuff pattern. It is a very pretty

design, and prettily executed; but cuffs are not used here now. Flowing

undersleeves are now all the rage.

We publish the following answer to an inquiry, by "H. E. B.," in our

January number. We are much obliged to the correspondent who sent it:--

"BATH, _January_ 2, 1854.

"MR. GODEY: Muslin embroideries should be squeezed through a

warm suds until perfectly clean, then rinsed and dried. Then make your

starch, have it thick, a little blue, and use it warm. Dip the article,

clap it, and work every thread out smooth with your fingers until dry;

then lay it on a flannel, and pass an iron over the wrong side.

"Embroidery cleaned in this way will look as clear as those imported.

A SUBSCRIBER."

"Rapp's Gold Pens."--We cannot enumerate each person that we have sent

Rapp's gold pens to. It would fill a column. We say, generally, every

order has been filled; and gold will become scarce, notwithstanding the

California supply, if orders multiply as they have done for the last

month. See terms, page 276.

EXPLANATION OF CROCHET TERMS.--Sc, single crochet; dc, double

crochet; pc, plain crochet; pdc, plain double crochet; dsc, double

stitch crochet; oc, open crochet; doc, double open crochet; tc, treble

crochet; stc, single treble crochet; rc, ribbed crochet; ch, chain

stitch; l, loup, and sometimes long stitch; sq, squares (in a tidy).

The stars in work patterns denote repetition, and whatever is inclosed

between two stars is to be repeated. Crosses and dashes often indicate

the same thing. There are also sometimes used crosses, and sometimes

stars within crosses, to avoid a deal of repetition, as the following:

=X= 2 dc, 4 ch, miss 4, * 5 dc, 1 ch, miss 1, * three times, 5 dc,

=X= twice. This would be at length, 2 dc, 4 ch, miss 4, 5 dc, 1

ch, miss 1, 5 dc, 1 ch, miss 1, 5 dc, 1 ch, miss 1, 5 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch,

miss 4, 5 dc, 1 ch, miss 1, 5 dc, 1 ch, miss 1, 5 dc, 1 ch, miss 1, 5

dc. This mode, therefore, of stars, crosses, &c., very much abbreviates.

No orders attended to unless the cash accompanies it.

All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp.

Chemistry for Youth.

HEAT, LIGHT, AND FLAME.

A LANTERN TO GIVE LIGHT UNDER WATER.--The lantern must be

made of leather, which will resist the waves better than any other

substance, and must be furnished with two tubes, having a communication

with the air above. One of these tubes is to admit fresh air for

maintaining the combustion of the candle, and the other to serve as a

chimney, by affording a passage to the smoke; both must rise above the

surface of the water. The tube which serves to admit fresh air must

communicate with the lantern at the bottom, and that which serves as a

chimney must be connected with it at the top. Any number of holes may

be made in the leather of which the lantern is constructed, into which

glasses are fitted; by these means the light will be diffused on all

sides. In the last place, the lantern must be suspended from a piece of

cork, that it may rise and fall with the waves.

* * * * *

EXPERIMENT WITH A PIPE.--Compose a powder with one ounce of

saltpetre, one ounce of cream of tartar, and one ounce of sulphur,

pulverized singly, then mixed. Put a single grain of this powder into a

tobacco-pipe, and when it takes fire it will produce a very loud report

without breaking the pipe.

* * * * *

SINGULAR EFFECT OF HEAT.--If a piece of tin foil be wrapped in

a piece of platinum foil of the same size, and exposed on charcoal to

the action of the blowpipe, the union of the two metals is indicated by

a rapid whistling, and by an intense brilliancy in the light which is

emitted. If the globule thus melted is allowed to drop into a basin of

water, it remains for some time redhot at the bottom: and such is the

intensity of the heat, that it melts and carries off the glaze of the

basin from the part on which it happens to fall.

* * * * *

IMITATION OF THE LUMINOUS APPEARANCE OF THE LUNAR

DISC.--Introduce a few pieces of phosphorus, of the size of a

pea, into a hollow glass ball of three or four inches in diameter;

and having heated it to cause the phosphorus to inflame, keep turning

the ball around, till half the inner surface is covered with the

phosphorus; when the inflammation has ceased, there will be left a

whitish crust or lining, which, in a dark place, shines for some

considerable time.

Enigmas.

ANSWERS TO ENIGMAS IN FEBRUARY NUMBER.

4. Memory.

5. Kensington.

6. Eye--I.

7. The parts of speech.

8. Earthquake.

* * * * *

ENIGMAS.

9.

THOUGH formed of what by all is prized,

I'm universally despised:

Though light[6] myself, I darken you;

And though I'm missed, I balk your view.

In cities is my favorite haunt,

Although afloat I also flaunt:

Land travellers e'er rail at me,

While sailors wish me in the sea.

Yet, spite of all their dire abuse,

The wise will deem I serve some use.

10.

OF goodness the beginning

Am I, you may depend,

Although also of sinning

Undoubtedly the end.

In grief hard-used I must confess,

As well as gravity;

But softened e'er by gentleness

And generosity.

Grandees to me give precedence

(So prominent in grace):

For gold I claim a preference,

And guilt also embrace.

But greater far than all of these

In glory I transcend,

And lead the Highest of Degrees

The mind can comprehend.

11.

THOUGH variable as the wind am I,

A steady servant ne'ertheless I prove;

By active drudgery your wants supply,

And moving frequently, yet ne'er remove.

Hard-hearted are my motives; yet you'll own

No fairer workman than myself could live;

Then I'm a sailor, though a landsman known,

And, fairly dealt with, fairest measures give.

12.

"Tria juncta in uno."

LIKE the leaf of the shamrock, an union of three,

On the stalk of humanity flourish should we--

Three blossoms of heavenly beauty and grace,

Which you may in the following similes trace.

While one with the sun may in fervor compare,

The fixed centre whose glorious ardor we share;

The second resembles sweet Phœbe, whose light,

The reflex of the first, must illume the mind's night.

Then our third our own beautiful planet portrays,

Whose beautiful harmonies gladden our days.

The one ever ardent, inspiring, we find,

The other two sanctified spirits enshrined

In their mystical palace: one cheering our heart;

While the other's sweet ministry 'tis to impart

What may happiness ever to others extend,

And of mundane felicity prove a real friend.

Now the poetized graces extinguished must be,

By comparison e'er with our paragon Three!

Therefore, we presume, with a little address,

The names of our glorious triad you'll guess.

[Footnote 6: Lucus a non lucendo.]

Receipts, &c.

TO REMOVE STAINS OF WINE OR FRUIT FROM TABLE LINEN.--A wine

stain may sometimes be removed by rubbing it, while wet, with common

salt. It is said, also, that sherry wine poured immediately on a place

where port wine has been spilled, will prevent its leaving a stain.

A _certain_ way of extracting fruit or wine stains from table linen

is to tie up some cream of tartar in the stained part (so as to form

a sort of bag), and then to put the linen into a lather of soap and

cold water, and boil it awhile. Then transfer it wet to lukewarm suds,

wash and rinse it well, and dry and iron it. The stains will disappear

during the process. Another way is to mix, in equal quantities, soft

soap, slacked lime, and pearlash. Rub the stain with this preparation,

and expose the linen to the sun with the mixture plastered on it.

If necessary, repeat the application. As soon as the stain has

disappeared, wash out the linen immediately, as it will be injured if

the mixture is left in it.

TO MAKE GOOD INK.--Take one pound logwood, one gallon soft

water, boil it one hour, add twenty-five grains bichromate of potash,

twelve grains of prussiate of potash; stir a few minutes while over the

fire, take it off, and when settled, strain it. This ink is bright jet

black at first, flows beautifully from the pen, and is so indelible

that even oxalic acid wilt not remove it from paper. No other ink will

stand the test of oxalic acid. It is equally indelible on cloth.

TO DYE RED.--You can dye red with either cochineal, madder,

Brazil wood, or archil; the latter is generally preferred for common

dyes. Alum is all that is required to _fix_ a color.

TO PRESERVE WOODWORK.--Boiled oil and finely-powdered

charcoal, mix to the consistence of a paint, and give the wood two

or three coats with this composition. Well adapted for water-spouts,

casks, &c.

TO REMOVE IRON SPOTS ON MARBLE.--Mix equal quantities of

spirit of vitriol and lemon-juice, shake it well; wet the spots with

the mixture, and in a few minutes rub with a soft linen until they are

completely effaced.

* * * * *

DOMESTIC RECEIPTS.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC MANGE.

[_Third article._]

PINE-APPLE CREAM.--Have some pine-apple prepared in syrup,

and cut into small dice, putting it in your cream with a little of the

syrup, the other process as before.

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT CREAM.--Use a pottle of raspberries, and

the juice of a handful of currants, passed through the sieve with the

raspberries, then proceed as before, precisely.

CREME MERINGUEE.--Infuse in a pint of new milk the very thin

rind of a lemon, with four or five bitter almonds bruised. As the

quantity should not be reduced, it should be kept by the side of the

fire until strongly flavored, and not be allowed to boil for more than

two or three minutes. Sweeten it with three ounces of fine sugar in

lumps, and when this is dissolved, strain, and mix the milk with half a

pint of cream; then stir the whole gradually to the well-beaten yolks

of six fresh eggs, and thicken it like boiled custard. Put it, when

cold, into a deep dish; beat to a solid froth the whites of six eggs,

mix them with five table-spoonfuls of pounded and sifted sugar, and

spread them evenly over the custard, which should be set immediately

into a moderate oven, baked half an hour, and served directly it is

taken out. New milk, one pint; rind of one lemon; bitter almonds, five;

sugar, three ounces; cream, half pint; yolks of eggs, six; frothed

whites of eggs, six; sifted sugar, five table-spoonfuls; baked, half an

hour.

ITALIAN CREAM.--Mix one pint of rich cream with half pint of

milk; sweeten it to your taste; add two gills of Madeira wine; one gill

of rose-water; beat these ingredients thoroughly; dissolve in boiling

water one and a half ounce of isinglass; strain it through a napkin or

sieve, and stir it into the cream; fill the moulds, and when firm, turn

out.

ALMOND CREAM.--Boil one quart of cream with a grated nutmeg,

a blade or two of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, and sugar to your taste;

then blanch one-quarter of a pound of almonds, and beat them very fine

with a table-spoonful of rose-water or orange-flower water; beat well

the whites of nine eggs and strain them to the almonds; beat them

together and rub them well through a coarse hair-sieve; mix it with

the cream; set it on the fire, and stir it all one way until it almost

boils; pour it into a bowl and stir it till cold. Put it into cups or

glasses and send it to table.

CREME A LA VANILLE.--Boil one ounce of isinglass in a pint

of milk for ten minutes, taking care it does not stick to the bottom

of the stewpan. Put into it half a stick of vanilla; cover it down,

and let it stand till nearly cold. Beat up the yolks of five eggs, mix

into them six ounces of pounded sugar, put these into a stewpan; take

the vanilla out of the milk, which add to the eggs, mix them well, and

stir the custard over the fire till it thickens, but do not let it

boil. Strain it into a bowl; when nearly cold, add a glass of noyeau

or maraschino; keep stirring it, and when on the point of setting add

three-quarters of a pint of cream well whipped; mix it well, and pour

it into a mould; set it upon ice till wanted, when dip it for a moment

into warm water, wipe it dry, and turn over upon a dish. _Or_: Boil

half a stick of vanilla in a quarter of a pint of new milk until it

has a very high flavor; have ready a jelly of one ounce of isinglass

to a quarter of a pint of water, which mix with the milk, and one and

a quarter pint of fine cream; sweeten with fine sugar, and whip until

quite thick; then pour into the mould and set it in a cool place. _Or_:

Pound thoroughly with loaf-sugar a quarter of a stick of vanilla, sift

it, taking care that the vanilla is passed through the sieve; whip a

pint of cream; add the vanilla, sugar, and half an ounce of dissolved

isinglass; pour into a mould.

CREME AU MARASQUIN.--Prepare a cream as the _Crême à la

Vanille_, adding a quarter ounce more isinglass, and substituting

maraschino for vanilla.

* * * * *

THE SICK ROOM AND NURSERY.

DECOCTION OF SARSAPARILLA.--Take four ounces of the root,

slice it down, put the slices into four pints of water, and simmer for

four hours. Take out the sarsaparilla and beat it into a mash; put it

into the liquor again, and boil down to two pints; then strain and cool

the liquor. Dose--a wineglassful three times a day. Use--to purify the

blood after a course of mercury; or, indeed, whenever any taint is

given to the constitution, vitiating the blood, and producing eruptive

affections.

TO CURE BOILS.--The leaven of gingerbread placed on the boil,

and left there until it bursts, has been found to be a good remedy.

When the matter is removed, place some more leaven on the part.

Another, and perhaps easier mode, is the application of the rough side

of the nettle-geranium leaf to _draw_ the boil, and the smooth side to

be applied to _heal_ it.

CURE FOR A DRY COUGH.--Take of powdered gum-arabic, half an

ounce; liquorice-juice, half an ounce. Dissolve the gum first in warm

water, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, then add of paregoric two

drachms; syrup of squills, one drachm. Cork all in a bottle, and shake

well. Take one teaspoonful when the cough is troublesome.

MEDICAL EFFECTS OF HOT WATER.--In bruises, hot water is most

efficacious, both by means of insertion and fomentation in removing

pain, and totally preventing discoloration and stiffness. It has the

same effect after a blow. It should be applied as quickly as possible,

and as hot as it can be borne. Insertion in hot water will cure that

troublesome and very painful thing called a whitlow. The efficacy of

hot water in preventing the ill effects of fatigue is too well known to

require notice.

CURE FOR TOOTHACHE.--Dr. Blake recommends two drachms of alum,

to be dissolved in seven drachms of sweet spirits of nitre; a piece

of lint, or a small piece of sponge, to be dipped in the solution and

applied to the tooth.

STING OF A BEE.--Apply sal eratus wet. It is said to be an

excellent cure.

EARACHE may be relieved by dropping a little sweet oil and

laudanum, warm, into the ear, and applying hot salt in flannel bags, so

as to keep the part constantly warm. For sore throat, a gargle of alum

and water will frequently prove of relief at the early stage of the

disease.

* * * * *

The Toilet.

MACASSAR OIL.--Common oil, three quarts; spirit of wine, half

a pint; cinnamon-powder, three ounces; bergamot, two ounces. Heat

them together in a large pipkin; then remove it from the fire and add

four small pieces of alkanet-root, keeping it closely covered for

several hours. Let it then be filtered through a funnel lined with

filtering-paper.

WASH FOR SUNBURN.--Take two drachms of borax, one drachm of

Roman alum, one drachm of camphor, half an ounce of sugar-candy, and

a pound of ox-gall. Mix, and stir well for ten minutes or so, and

repeat this stirring three or four times a day for a fortnight, till

it appears clear and transparent. Strain through blotting-paper, and

bottle up for use.

TO REMOVE SUPERFLUOUS HAIR.--Lime, two ounces; carbonate of

potash, four ounces; charcoal-powder, two drachms. Make up into a paste

with warm water, and apply to the part, which must be previously shaved

close. When completely dry, wash it off with warm water.

WASH FOR THE HAIR.--Olive oil, half an ounce; oil of rosemary,

one drachm; strong hartshorn, two drachms; rose-water, half a pint. Add

the rose-water by degrees, otherwise it will not amalgamate.

TO DYE THE SKIN OLIVE.--Use walnut-juice mixed with a small

quantity of Spanish anotta. The tint required may be ascertained by

dipping the finger into it.

Centre-Table Gossip.

DRESS OF AMERICAN WOMEN.

Apropos of Godey's Dress-Making publications, we find the following

remarks in a notice of the visitors of the Crystal Palace, at the time

it was most thronged by the crowd of summer and autumn travellers. The

compliment to the ladies of our own city is more noticeable, as coming

from a New York writer:--

"We may here properly observe that American women would be a great deal

better dressed if they would more carefully consult simplicity and

sobriety in the colors and arrangement of their costumes, especially

such as are worn in public places. For a ball or evening party, it

is allowable to be elaborately dressed, gay and brilliant; but the

spectacles of dress we have seen during our visits to the exhibition

have often been the reverse of grateful to the eye. Ladies we have

seen who, no doubt, fancied themselves very splendid, poor things,

because they were arrayed in the hues of the rainbow--a bonnet of pink

perhaps, a dress of bright blue, or of some gay changeable silk, or

mantilla of yellow, and a parasol of white. We have often longed to

advise such unlucky persons to go to their hotel, and put on the neat

and appropriate travelling-dress they had discarded for this horrible

finery. Let our fair readers then be aware that the well-dressed lady

is the one who appears in the street, or in public places, in the

fewest, simplest, and least conspicuous colors, choosing, of course,

such of the neutral hues as are most suited to her complexion, and

having every part of her attire of the most scrupulous fit, neatness,

and propriety.

"For _perfect taste_, the Parisian is unrivalled, and you will often

see her dressed in a single neutral color--bonnet, dress, cloak, and

gloves nearly the same shade. Next to her in the art of dress is the

Philadelphia Quakeress, who has discarded the awkward and angular forms

of costume prescribed by her sect, but adheres to its simple and sober

colors. No class of American women are so well dressed in the street,

and, indeed, no other class of women in the world are dressed better,

save only the ladies of Paris, who matchless in taste, and perfect in

the most refined science of costume."

* * * * *

A BIT OF SHOPPING GOSSIP.

"On dress, of course," perhaps you say--a safer subject for gossip than

the reputation of one's neighbors; but everybody knows shopping is

considered a legitimate amusement, from the good substantial purchases

of the farmer's wife, who exchanges butter and cheese for her teas

and cottons, to the wife of the Fifth Avenue millionaire, whose bill

at Stewart's for a single year would purchase the homestead for which

the farmer pays by the sweat of brow. Let us see how they manage this

feminine accomplishment on the other side of the water.

"When you go to buy gloves in Paris, a young lady not only knows what

size you wear by intuition, but actually tries on a pair, putting them

on you with her pliant fingers, and, if the glove does not fit, takes

it off and throws it by! And you are told what colors to wear in the

street--what in the evening; and white kids are never worn here, except

to balls. Gloves for evening are made with two and three buttons at the

wrist, and never have any kind of lace or trimmings at the top.

"Now, as to prices, I find everything a little dearer here than in New

York; a bonnet, for instance, without feathers or flowers, costs from

90 to 100f.; a velvet cloak 350, 400, or 500f.; a simple headdress 50f.

I suppose there are common stores, where articles are cheap; but who

wants to come to Paris and buy such things as one sees in Canal Street

or the Bowery, at home?

"The embroideries are so exquisite! One never sees real Parisian

needle-work for sale in America; for there are certain stores which

only work from orders, and not to sell to merchants, and it is in

these little shops one must go to learn what French embroidery is. For

pocket-handkerchiefs, there is a store in the _Rue de la Paix_, No.

11, where nothing is sold but 'French cambric handkerchiefs, from one

franc to 1,500 each,' and where they embroider your name, or 'coronet

or crest,' when you have purchased of them. I find _mouchoirs_,

embroidered in colors (blue, red, and violet), are very much used.

"You may tell the ladies at home that curls are entirely the fashion

here now, and as long as the hair will admit, even to the waist (in

front). There are no great puffs at the temple, such as are worn in

New York. The narrow fronts to the bonnets forbid those now. Curls are

termed _à l'Anglais_, and ladies of a certain age wear their gray curls

as gracefully as young ones do their ringlets of auburn and black."

* * * * *

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

"MISS N. R."--Ermine and its imitations can be cleaned to

look almost as well as new in New York. Any order of the kind will be

attended to by the editress of the fashion department. A good imitation

is well worth the trouble and expense.

"MRS. S."--For reading aloud, we would recommend "_The

Artist Wife_," Mary Howitt; "_A Year of Wedlock_," Emilie Carlin;

"_Knicknacks_;" Weld's "_Life of Franklin_;" anything by the "_Author

of the_ '_Maiden Aunt_,'" or _Mrs. Margaret Maitland_. Two of the books

she mentions are by no means suited to the family circle, one being

too heavy in topic and treatment for the interest of younger members,

the other a work entirely unfit for a lady's centre-table, certainly

for her private reading, although she has "cut the advertisement from

a popular family paper." A mother cannot be too cautious in selecting

mental food for her children. We will furnish either of the above by

mail.

"MISS M.," of Ohio, will find a chitchat article on the

topic named in her very clever letter. We are sure she is a dutiful,

affectionate daughter, and will make a good wife.

"NANNIE" can have stamped bands sent to her by mail, and will

find cambric embroidery a very pleasant parlor work. By this means she

will get a set, sleeves and chemisette, at one-third of the importer's

price. There are but two stitches generally used for them, button-hole

and the plain eyelet, or over and over stitch; the variety is produced

by the different styles of arranging the eyelets.

"L. M. J." should remember Mrs. Hentz's story of the "Mob Cap." It is

not well to trust the purchase of jewelry to an inexperienced person,

particularly in the matter of stones, unless they are directed to a

well-known, responsible manufacturer. We recollect to have seen a set

of cornelians surrounded by pearls, which proved to be glass colored by

sealing-wax on the under side, a perfect imitation, but worthless in

themselves. We would refer her to Bailey or Warden, in Philadelphia,

Ball & Black, Tiffany, or Rait, in New York.

"MUSIDORA" has chosen rather a fanciful name for her

correspondence, but we do not seek to penetrate her secret. The best

remedy for the strain that she complains of is to quit reading in bed,

the worst possible practice for eyes and head. If mischief is already

done, we would recommend bathing them in fresh rose-water, plain cold

water, or a simple mixture of camphor eight ounces, distilled water

sixteen ounces. Worsted-work in the evening should also be avoided,

especially any difficult pattern that requires much counting.

"AN AMATEUR GARDENER" will find Saxton, Fulton Street, New

York, to have the best works on the subject. With regard to the economy

of a kitchen garden, it is a matter of doubt still to our own minds. At

any rate, there is a great pleasure in having fresh vegetables, sweet

peas, and corn, and unwilted cucumbers, that have not lost their flavor

by lying half of a week in market.

"M. S."--The "Musical Gift" contains all of Jullien's music, simply

arranged. Price one dollar, and the postage is but a trifle, as

the binding is very simple. As she wishes it for a person not very

far advanced, we think this would be better than buying difficult

arrangements, separately, at fifty cents a piece.

* * * * *

Fashions.

* * * * *

FASHIONABLE BONNETS,

FROM THE CELEBRATED ESTABLISHMENT OF THOMAS WHITE AND CO., NO. 41 SOUTH

SECOND STREET, PHILA.

(_See Cuts in front of Book._)

_No._ 1.--_Opera Bonnet._--Material, white tulle; face, pointed satin

wire, wreath of pink satin pipings around the front; rows of pink

pipings, edged with white blonde lace. Trimming of green crape leaves;

face trimming composed of bouquet of rosebuds and mazarine blue

flowers; strings on the left side, with bouquet loops.

_No._ 2.--_Spring Fancy Bonnet._--Material, lilac _glacé_ silk; pointed

edge, with blonde lace fall. Trimming, tulle _ruches_, intermingled

with violets. Face trimming, lilac and white flowers.

_No._ 3.--_English Straw Bonnet._--Trimming, white flowers, mixed with

a bouquet of rosebuds and green plaid ribbon. Face trimming, wreath of

the same. Strings same as in No. 1.

_No._ 4.--_Miss's Flat._--Material, white _glacé_ silk; front edge,

blocks of wire covered with tulle. Trimming, half wreath of white

flowers; ribbon carried across the crown, finished with bows at each

side.

* * * * *

CHITCHAT UPON PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS for THE JUVENILES.

Taking always as our motto that comfort and simplicity are the first

principles of dress for children, we have, like a careful mother,

to consider the spring outfit of the little ones, a task which many

mothers dread, because they have not the tact to manage it rightly. In

the first place, comfort cannot be insured without cleanliness, another

of our previous axioms, and here, as in an infant's wardrobe, it is

best to choose plenty, rather than fineness or elaboration, if both are

not to be had, particularly in the matter of underclothing, which would

form a separate chapter by itself.

For a little girl just emerging from babyhood, the change is almost

insensible; but very few mothers know what to do with a boy under

similar circumstances. The present styles are more available than the

little close cloth suit of jacket and trousers, so long in fashion,

transforming the little urchin into the semblance of a monkey in his

hand-organ costume. All mothers have reason to bless the invention, or

rather the revival of sacques--for the prettiest, and at the same time

most comfortable and convenient summer dress we can recommend for boys

from two years old to five, is a loose sacque, girt, by a belt, over

white linen jean drawers or "pataloons," as the young gentlemen will be

apt to call them.

We prefer the sack buttoning on the shoulder, with short sleeves, and

rather full in the skirt, reaching a little above the knee. It may be

made of any material--for spring, cashmere or mousseline de laine,

plain colors or small plaids--brown Holland, with an edging of linen

bobbin sewed on flat in two or three rows, as the weather grows milder,

and finally, for summer heats, cambric in solid colors, as blue,

buff, pink, or green, also very prettily finished by rows of bobbin

or coronation braid. Needlework scalloping is also a suitable finish.

Nothing could be more simple or inexpensive. Plaid ginghams might also

be made up to look well, with pearl, linen, or porcelain buttons on the

shoulders. There are porcelain buttons, as most of our readers know,

with edges of different shades, pink, purple, etc., that will match

nicely. The thin sacques might be low in the neck, with short sleeves;

for a thicker material, as cashmere de bege, or mousseline, they should

be high in the throat, with a narrow cambric ruffle or edge basted in

the neck.

The drawers are short, coming a little below the knee, and not very

wide. For ourselves, we prefer them finished with a plain hem, about

an inch in width, but it is much the fashion to have a ruffle of twice

that depth, of embroidered cambric flouncing, double the trouble to

make and keep in order, of course. They are slightly full on the hip,

opening on each side, trousers fashion, and gathered into a waistband,

in turn buttoned on a plain low-necked waist, like the lining of a

frock body. Of course, if circumstances will not admit of the care and

washing necessary for white clothes, the judgment of the economical

mother can substitute any suitable material for the white linen. Belts

are worn of morocco, or broad silk, and linen belting--a kind of

galloon--with brass buckles of different styles. They should be loose

and low on the hip, to give the figure grace and freedom of movement.

This dress has, at least, the merit of convenience and simplicity.

Pinafores are, of course, indispensable, whether of bird's eye, or

brown linen. They are made very much in sacque fashion at present, the

sleeves being long or short, as the health of the child or the season

demands. Many belt the pinafores over the drawers and waist we have

described, without anything else beneath, in warm weather.

Straw hats are, of course, the most suitable covering for the head,

and there are an infinite variety to be found at Genin's and Oakford's

the present spring, from the costly Leghorn, with its snowy plumes, to

the simple braids of China pearl, or even coarser varieties, the brims

varying in width. The bands are of Mantua ribbon, white or green straw

and galloons. Straw caps are still worn, but are not so comfortable,

as they afford very little shade to the eyes or neck. They are more

intended for boys from five to ten.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.]

Fig. 1 is a sacque of a more ornamental character than that we have

described, and is intended for a little girl's out of door dress. It

is of white cambric, trimmed with embroidered flouncing, and may be

worn with or without a sacque. Of course, it is calculated for weather

several degrees warmer than March; but a spring wardrobe includes

summer garments as well. Little coats may be made of nankeen, dimity,

or cambric, with a rather full body and round cape coming to the

waist, and are very much in favor the coming season. If of nankeen,

the trimming is a hem headed with rows of bobbin, plain linen, or

coronation braid; if dimity or cambric, the flouncing as given in the

cut is much used, or wide cambric edging.

[Illustration: Fig. 2.]

Fig. 2 is a walking-dress for a little girl of three or four years,

and is considered very simple and childlike. It is of a light plain

cashmere, any shade that will suit the complexion of the young wearer.

The skirt has two broad folds, or they may be imitated by two rows

of trimming, a simple braid, galloon, or gimp. The waist is plain,

with a basque opening on the hips; a cross piece is made to imitate

a tiny pelerine, when worn on the street. The usual objection to a

fashionable costume--overloading of ornament--cannot be urged against

this extremely neat dress.

Fig. 3 is still another style for a child of the same age; it is the

simple infant's waist, with a basque and sleeves of cambric embroidery.

The waist has alternate rows of plain plaits and a narrow puffing; it

may have the same effect if plaits and three narrow tucks alternate,

and can be more easily done up. The skirt is of plain cambric, with a

deep hem. The dress without the basque, and with an elongated skirt, is

very suitable for an infant's wardrobe. A belt of insertion takes the

place of the trimming on the hip.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.]

For the street, children of this age wear drawn bonnets of white or

blue silk, of a very simple style, or a delicate straw braid, with a

_ruche_ of silk lace or blonde encircling the face. Flats of straw

and Leghorn will be worn, as the past season, with bows and flowing

ends of white ribbon, or the addition of a white plume, in some cases.

Satin ribbon is much used. Sacques, coats, and sylphides of dotted,

cross-barred, and plain Swiss muslin, cambric, or summer silks, are

used for surcoats. Fine printed lawns, French chintzes, brilliantes,

cambrics, etc., are the favorite dress materials. Checks of cashmere,

mousseline, silk, and French gingham are very pretty for spring wear.

Gaiters, or morocco slippers, with a strap around the ankle, and white

stockings; pantalettes are still worn rather high.

FASHION.

* * * * *

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| |

| Transcriber notes: |

| |

| P. 195. Music treble bar 5, note should be (g d)8 count, not 4.|

| P. 195. First 'Pop', bass, '(c e a)4\fermata' should be |

| '<c e a>8\fermata', changed. |

| P. 202. '...alities of rags', changed to 'qualities of rags'. |

| P. 204. 'tranferred' changed to 'transferred'. |

| P. 278. 'and efficent' changed 'efficent' to 'efficient'. |

| Fixed various punctuation. |

| |

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