ORMESBY AND FRITTON.
[Picture: Decorative drop capital] There are still some very important
Broads in Norfolk and Suffolk, which I could not mention in an account of
a cruise, because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and,
as a matter of fact, I know comparatively little about them for that
reason. There are the Ormesby, Filby and Rollesby Broads, lying together
in a straggling group four or five miles north-eastward of Acle.
Altogether, they contain 800 acres of water, but much of this is
overgrown by reeds. The Muck Fleet, which we passed below Acle Bridge,
is their outlet into the river Bure. They are very easily accessible
from Yarmouth by rail to Ormesby station, on the North Norfolk Railway,
and boats may be obtained at the Eel's Foot, and the Sportsman's Arms,
the former having fair staying accommodation. The fishing is free, at
all events to persons going to the houses named, and uncommonly good
sport is to be had amongst pike, rudd, and bream, the number of a catch
being counted by the hundred, and the weight by the stone. For fishing,
pure and simple, Ormesby Broad is as good a place as any to visit.
[Picture: Fritton Decoy]
The other lake I have not described is Fritton Decoy, a long curving
lake, about a mile from St. Olave's station, on the Yarmouth and
Lowestoft Railway, and Haddiscoe station, on the Norwich and Lowestoft
Railway. It is only open to anglers from April to September, being
closed the rest of the year, to protect the wild-fowl decoys, which are
still worked on it, by the two proprietors. For a note upon these
decoys, and others in Norfolk, I must refer the reader to a paper upon
decoys, written by Mr. Thos. Southwell, F.Z.S., published in a new
edition of that most fascinating book, Lubbock's "Fauna of Norfolk,"
issued by the publishers of this book, and for descriptive accounts to my
own larger book, "Norfolk Broads and Rivers," published by Wm. Blackwood
and Sons.
Fritton is an exceedingly beautiful Broad, and its waters are very deep.
It is, in fact, a lake, rather than a Broad proper. It is extremely well
stocked with fish, and good sport may generally be obtained there. Boats
can be obtained at "Fritton Old Hall."
[Picture: Decorative chapter end]
[Picture: Decorative chapter header]
APPENDIX.
RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS.
[Picture: Decorative drop capital] To begin with, it may be well to state
that Norwich itself can be reached from London by two lines of
railway--one via Colchester and Ipswich, and the other by Cambridge and
Ely, the journey taking from three to four hours. From Norwich, Yarmouth
and Lowestoft may be reached in an hour of slow travelling, and as the
line runs by the river the whole way, and every station is convenient for
fishing purposes, it will be desirable to give a list of them, with
remarks upon the adjacent fishing places.
WHITLINGHAM.
This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing, although occasionally
the fish seem to head up, and good takes are to be had. Good rowing
boats may be obtained at Thorpe Gardens, five minutes' walk from the
station. Omnibuses ply between the Gardens and Norwich every hour. The
reach of the old river is very lovely.
BRUNDALL
Is the station for "Coldham Hall," at which inn visitors can be
accommodated. The inn is ten minutes' walk from the station down the
river, and across the ferry. There are plenty of boats, and the place is
much frequented. From here down to Buckenham Ferry there are large
numbers of pike, and it is customary to row down trailing a bait behind.
Roach and bream are plentiful.
BUCKENHAM FERRY.
From this station you have ten minutes' walk down to the Ferry, where
boats are to be obtained, and the fishing generally is good.
CANTLEY.
Close by the station is the "Red House" Inn, where there is good
accommodation for visitors. Boats can be had. The fish, as a rule, run
larger here than higher up. The water is deep and the tide swift. When
the water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had.
REEDHAM.
The "Ferry" Inn is ten minutes' walk. Good accommodation. The bream run
large, so do the perch, of which there used to be large numbers _under
the ferry boat_.
The line divides at Reedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other to
Lowestoft. There is no fishing place on the Yarmouth branch, but on the
Lowestoft line there are--
HADDISCOE,
whence the Cut may be fished. Boats are difficult to obtain, but the
landlord of the "Bell" Inn, at St. Olave's bridge, might procure you one.
This is the station for Fritton Decoy.
SOMERLEYTON.
This would be an excellent fishing station if boats could be procured,
but you cannot rely upon being able to borrow one. The porters at the
swing-bridge, or the landlord of the "Duke's Head," might direct you
where to obtain a boat. I think the latter has one or two. The bream
are very large and numerous. The good fishing in this part of the river
has been exemplified by Mr. Winch, of Norwich, who has taken 8 stone in a
day--five bream weighing 20 lbs., and one bream weighing 6.75 lbs.
OULTON BROAD.
See the last chapter for full information as to this important fishing
station.
Another line from Norwich leads to--
WROXHAM.
7 miles. The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and pike, although it
is much fished. Boats at Jimpson's or Whittaker's, where there is also
fair accommodation for visitors. The Broad is a mile and a half down
stream, from the bridge. It can be fished by permission only. Tickets
to fish on the Broad can be obtained through Mr. C. J. Greene, Fishing
Tackle Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d. per boat.
COLTISHALL.
Two miles further. The fishing is much better here than is generally
supposed, but boats are not plentiful. Enquire at the waterside who is
likely to have one at liberty.
The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth through the heart of the
Broad District to North Walsham, on the Norwich, Wroxham, and Cromer
line. The stations from Yarmouth are--
ORMESBY.
A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of which are free.
The fishing is as good as it can be for pike, rudd, roach, and bream.
Boats at the "Eel's Foot" and "Sportsman's Arms." Staying accommodation
at the former.
MARTHAM.
Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is more convenient.
POTTER HEIGHAM.
Inns, the "Falgate" and "Waterman's Arms," where there is staying
accommodation. Good boats at Applegate's. The river Thurne and the
channels through Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd,
perch, roach, pike, and eels.
CATFIELD.
The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient for boats.
STALHAM.
Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the fishing is excellent.
Plenty of boats obtainable at the end of the dyke. Inns, the "Maid's
Head" and the "Swan," both very comfortable. Stalham is a pretty
village.
Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station of interest.
On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, ST. OLAVE'S is the
nearest station to Fritton.
ACLE
Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and Yarmouth, joining
the old line at Brundall.
Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning Ferry, on the
Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay at, kept by a good host and
sportsman, Mr. Thompson, who can be relied upon to make his visitors
comfortable. At Horning village, the "New" Inn deserves mention, and
boats can be procured there. Horning is about four miles' drive from
Wroxham, and ten from Norwich.
The reader is requested to look at the Map, and note the relative
position of the various places. As to fishing, it can hardly be said
that one is better than another, for all are so good.
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.
Under this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain Bye-laws have been
made, with which the reader should make himself acquainted.
APPROVED BYE-LAWS.
CLOSE TIME--ALL WATERS.
1. No person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or attempt to
catch, take, or kill, otherwise than by rod and line, within the
limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th day of
September and the 25th day of January, both days inclusive, or any
other kind of fish, between the 1st day of March and the 30th day
of June, both days inclusive, except Smelts, Bait, and Eels, as
hereinafter provided.
NETS GENERALLY.
2. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Fish within the
limits of the above Act, do any of the following things:--
1. Use or attempt to use any Net between one hour
after sunset and one hour before sunrise, except
in the River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in
the River Nene below Wisbeach Bridge.
2. Use or attempt to use, at any time before the
30th day of June, 1890, for the purpose of
taking Fish, other than Tench, Smelts, Bait, and
Eels, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions
when wet than three inches from knot to knot,
measured on each side of the square, or twelve
inches all round.
3. Use or attempt to use any Net having a wall or
facing, with a mesh of less dimensions when wet
than seven inches from knot to knot, measured on
each side of the square, or 28 inches all round.
4. Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
any Bow Net.
5. Use or attempt to use, in any navigable river,
any Drag Net having a poke or pocket.
6. Use or attempt to use a drag net of any kind in
the under-mentioned waters:--
1. The River Yare or Wensum--
2. The River Waveney--
3. The River Bure, below the lower entrance
into Wroxham Broad--
4. The River Ant, below the lower entrance into
Barton Broad--
5. The River Thurne, below the entrance into
Somerton Broad--
except with the previous permission in writing
of the Board of Conservators, under their Common
Seal.
3. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use or
attempt to use, any net for taking Fish, unless it is sufficiently
weighted to sink vertically in the water, or take, or attempt to
take, Fish by placing two or more Nets behind or near to each
other, or use any other device or artifice so as practically to
diminish the size of the mesh of any net allowed to be used by
these Bye-Laws, or to evade this provision.
PROHIBITING USE OF TRIMMERS, &C., IN NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
4. No person shall use, or attempt to use, any Trimmer, Ligger,
Dead Line, or Snare, or any like Instrument or Engine, for the
purpose of taking Fish in any navigable river within the limits of
the above Act, except Lines for taking Eels as hereinafter
provided.
TAKING SMELTS.--RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM.
5. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
attempt to use, any Net in the River Yare or Wensum for the purpose
of taking Smelts, except a Cast Net or Drop Net, between the 10th
day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive, and then
only between the New Mills, in the parish of Saint Swithin, in the
City of Norwich, or Trowse Bridge, in Trowse, or Trowse Newton, and
the junction of the Rivers Yare and Wensum at a place known as
Trowse Hythe, and between Hardley Cross and the junction of the
Rivers Yare and Waveney.
6. No person shall use, or attempt to use, a Cast Net or Drop Net
exceeding 16 feet in diameter, in the River Yare or Wensum, within
the limits of the above Act.
TAKING SMELTS.--RIVER WAVENEY.
7. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
attempt to use, in the River Waveney, above the Burgh Cement works,
any Net for the purpose of taking Smelts, except between the 10th
day of March and the 12th day of May, both days inclusive, and then
only at the places and by the means hereinafter mentioned, viz.,
between Rose Hall Fleet, and the Boat-house Hill, near Beccles, and
in the pen of Shipmeadow Lock, by a Cast Net or Drop Net not
exceeding 16 feet in diameter, and if any such Net be used between
one hour after sunset and one hour before sunrise, the same shall
be used with a light or flare, and not otherwise.
TAKING SMELTS.--RIVERS OUSE, NAR, AND NENE.
8. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, take or
kill, or attempt to take or kill, Smelts in the Rivers Ouse, Nar,
or Nene, between the 1st day of April and the 31st day of August,
both days inclusive.
9. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use or
attempt to use, in the Rivers Ouse, Nar, or Nene, for the purpose
of taking Smelts, any Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when
wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to knot, measured on
each side of the square.
TAKING SMELTS.--BREYDON WATER.
10. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
attempt to use, in the water known as Breydon Water, for the
purpose of taking Smelts, any Net in the months of May, June, July,
and August, or any Net between the 1st day of September and the
30th day of April, both days inclusive, having a mesh of less
dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths of an inch from knot to
knot, measured on each side of the square.
TAKING BAIT.--NAVIGABLE RIVERS.
11. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Bait in any
navigable river within the limits of the above Act (except in the
River Ouse below Denver Sluice, and in the River Nene below
Wisbeach Bridge), use any Net other than a Cast Net, or any Cast
Net having a mesh of less dimensions, when wet, than five-eighths
of an inch from knot to knot, measured on each side of the square.
TAKING BAIT.--ALL WATERS.
12. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, use, or
attempt to use, any Cast Net exceeding twelve yards in
circumference, between the 11th day of October and the 1st day of
April in each year, or any Cast Net exceeding eight yards in
circumference at any other time of the year, or any such net,
having a sack, or purse exceeding fourteen inches in depth, when
extended, for the purpose of taking Fish for Bait; and the word
"Bait" shall mean Roach, Rudd or Roud, Bream, Dace, Ruff or Pope,
Gudgeons, and Minnows, measuring less than eight inches from the
nose to the fork of the tail.
13. No person shall, within the limits of the above Act, Net for
Bait at any time on a Sunday; and no person shall, within such
limits, Net for Bait at any time on a week-day except between one
hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset, nor unless such Bait
is for use in angling, or trolling, or taking Eels within the
limits of the above Act.
TAKING EELS.--RIVERS YARE AND WENSUM, ABOVE HARDLEY CROSS.
14. No person shall, for the purpose of taking Eels in the Rivers
Yare and Wensum, above Hardley Cross, do any of the following
things:--
1. Use or attempt to use in the months of
April, May, and June, a line with a hook or
hooks, except in connection with a rod used
for the purpose of Angling.
2. Use or attempt to use any Net in the months
of April, May, and June.
3. Use or attempt to use at any other time of
the year, a Line, whether fixed or not,
with more than one hook, except in
connection with a rod used for the purpose
of Angling.
4. Use or attempt to use any Net other than a
Skim or Skein Net.
TAKING EELS.--ALL OTHER WATERS.
15. In all other waters within the limits of the above Act, lines
with one hook only, whether fixed or not, and fixed Nets, but no
others, may be used at any time for taking Eels only.
16. No person shall use or attempt to use, in any water within the
limits of the above Act, a Dag or Spear, for the purpose of taking
Fish other than Eels.
ALL WATERS.
17. Any person, within the limits of the above Act, taking any
Fish except Smelts, Eels, or Bait in any Net allowed by the Bye
Laws to be used for taking Smelts, Eels, or Bait respectively,
shall immediately return such first-mentioned Fish to the water
without avoidable injury.
18. The foregoing Bye-laws shall not apply to any other than
fresh-water Fish, or to the water known as Breydon Water, except as
to Smelts, as hereinbefore provided.
_I hereby certify that the foregoing is a true Copy of the Bye-laws made
by the Board of Conservators under the above Act, and that such Bye-laws
have been approved by one of Her Majesty's Principal Secretaries of
State, and have been duly advertised as approved Bye-laws in newspapers
circulated in the Counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and have been
otherwise published as the Board directed._
_Sealed by order of the Board._
TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
FROM CARROW BRIDGE.
YARE.
_Miles_.
To Trowse Hythe .5
,, Thorpe Second Bridge 1.5
,, Whitlingham Ferry 2
,, Corby's Dyke 2.25
,, Postwick Grove 3.25
,, ,, Hall 3.75
,, Wood's End 4.25
,, Wilde's Cottage 4.5
,, Surlingham Ferry 5.75
,, Coldham Hall 7.75
,, Walpole's Reed Bush 9
,, Buckenham Ferry 10
,, Hassingham Dyke 10.75
,, Langley Dyke 11.75
To Cantley Red House 12.75
,, Devil's House 13.25
,, Hardley Mill 14
,, ,, Dyke 14.25
,, ,, Cross 15.25
,, Norton Staithe 15.25
,, Reedham Ferry 15.5
,, ,, End of New Cut 17
,, Upper Seven Mile House 18.5
,, Berney Arms 20.75
,, Burgh Flats 21
,, Yarmouth Drawbridge 25
,, Gorleston Pierhead 27.25
FROM REEDHAM BRIDGE.
WAVENEY.
To Herringfleet Bridge 3
,, Somerleyton Bridge 4.5
,, Oulton Dyke 7.5
,, ,, Broad 8.75
To Mutford Lock 9.75
,, Lowestoft Bridge 11.5
,, ,, Pierhead 11.75
FROM YARMOUTH BRIDGE.
YARE.
To Berney Arms 4.25
,, Reedham Town 8
,, Norton Staithe 9.75
,, Hardley Cross 10
,, Cantley 12.5
,, Buckenham Ferry 15
,, Coldham Hall 18.25
,, Surlingham Ferry 19.75
,, Bramerton Wood's End 21
,, Postwick Grove 22
,, Whitlingham 23
,, Carrow Bridge 25
WAVENEY.
To Burgh Cage 4.75
,, St. Olave's Bridge 9.5
,, Mouth of New Cut 9.75
,, Somerleyton Bridge 12.25
,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke 15
,, Carlton Share Mill 16.25
,, Seven-Mile Corner 17.75
,, Six-Mile Corner 18.75
,, Worlingham Staithe 20
,, Aldeby Staithe 20.5
,, Beccles Mill 21
,, Sayer's Grove 22
,, Beccles Bridge 23
,, Nine Poplars 24.25
To Dawson's Dip House 24.75
,, Barsham's Boat House 25.75
,, Mouth of Oulton Dyke 15
,, Horse Shoe Point 16
,, Oulton Broad 16.5
,, Mutford Bridge 17.25
,, Lowestoft Bridge 19
,, Length of New Cut 2.5
BURE.
To Three-Mile House 3
,, Runham Swim 5.5
,, Six-Mile House 6.5
,, Seven-Mile House 8.5
,, Stokesby Ferry 10
,, Acle Bridge 12
,, Fishley Mill 12.5
,, Thurne Mouth 15.25
,, St. Benet's Abbey 17
,, Mouth of Ant 17.5
,, Horning Ferry 21
,, Horning Point 22
,, Wroxham Broad 25.5
,, Wroxham Bridge 27
,, Belaugh 31
,, Coltishall Bridge 34
,, Aylsham Bridge 45
THURNE.
To Thurne Mouth 15.25
,, Potter Heigham Bridge 19
,, Candler's Dyke 19.5
,, Hickling Staithe 22.25
ANT.
To Mouth of Ant 17.5
,, Ludham Bridge 18.25
,, Mouth of Barton Broad 21.75
,, End of Barton Broad 22.5
,, Stalham 23.5
,, Stalham Staithe 24.25
From Yarmouth Bridge to Runham Swim 5.5
,, ,, ,, Six-Mile House 6.5
,, ,, ,, Seven-Mile House 8.5
,, ,, ,, Stokesby Ferry 10
,, ,, ,, Acle Bridge 12
From Acle Bridge to Fishley Mill .5
,, ,, ,, Thurne Mouth 3.25
,, ,, ,, St. Benet's 5
,, ,, ,, Mouth of Ant 5.5
,, ,, ,, Horning Rectory 7.5
,, ,, ,, ,, Ferry 9
,, ,, ,, ,, Point 10
,, ,, ,, Entrance to Wroxham Broad 13.5
,, ,, ,, Wroxham Bridge 15
From Wroxham Bridge to Belaugh 4
,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall 7
,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham 18
From Yarmouth Bridge to Wroxham Bridge 27
,, ,, ,, ,, Coltishall 34
,, ,, ,, ,, Aylsham 45
From Thurne Mouth to Heigham Bridge 3.75
,, ,, ,, ,, Kendal Dyke 4.25
,, ,, ,, ,, Hickling Staithe 7
From River Ant to Ludham Bridge .75
,, ,, ,, ,, Mouth of Barton Broad 4.25
,, ,, ,, ,, End of ,, ,, 5
,, ,, ,, ,, End of Stalham Broad 6
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, Staithe 6.75
TIDES.
h. m.
It is high water at Lowestoft 0 43 later than at
Yarmouth Bar
,, ,, ,, ,, Cantley 3 0 ,, ,,
,, ,,
,,
,, ,, ,, ,, Coldham 4 0 ,, ,,
Hall ,, ,,
,,
,, ,, ,, ,, Oulton 4 0 ,, ,,
,, ,,
,,
,, ,, ,, ,, Horning 4 0 ,, ,,
,, ,,
,,
The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at Yarmouth
Bridge.
Springs. Neap.
The rise at Yarmouth is 6 feet 4.5 feet
,, ,, ,, Lowestoft ,, 6.5 ,, 5.25 ,,
,, ,, ,, Cantley ,, 2.5 ,, 1.5 ,,
,, ,, ,, Oulton ,, 2 ,, 1.25 ,,
The Tides, however, vary according to the strength and direction of the
wind and the quantity of flood water in the river.
FISHING GENERALLY.
In the rivers it is customary to fish in 10 to 14 feet of water, and the
shortness of the swims necessitates the line being heavily weighted, in
order that it may sink rapidly. The floats are necessarily large,
particularly when used for the lower reaches, where there is a
considerable tidal current. The boats are moored in a line with the
stream, not across it, as on the Thames, and the swims are thus very
short. For the upper and clearer waters, the Nottingham system of
angling might be advisable, but in the more turbid lower reaches the
Norfolk style is practically the best. Worms are used for bream, and
paste for roach. Worms are procurable at some of the tackle shops, but
anglers will do well to provide them for themselves if possible.
Boats are charged for at the rate of from 1s. to 2s. a-day, but are
rather rough concerns, except at Oulton.
Ground-bait, consisting chiefly of meal and clay, is largely used, but a
place is rarely baited beforehand. As there is ample choice of stations,
always moor so that the wind is at your back, and you will thus have
smooth water in front of you.
Small roach as bait for pike, are procurable at most of the waterside
inns, at 1s. to 1s. 6d. a score, but to get the best sport obtain fish
from other waters, particularly dace and gudgeon.
Pike are, of course, the chief fish in Norfolk, and are plentiful
everywhere. In the rivers they do not run very large, a ten-pound fish
being considered a good one, but in a few years' time, with the freedom
from netting the rivers now enjoy, we may expect some very large ones to
be caught in the rivers. In private waters there are veritable monsters,
but the stranger is not likely to make acquaintance with them.
Live-baiting and spinning with a spoon, or artificial bait trailed behind
a boat, are the usual modes of fishing for pike in Norfolk. Trolling
with a dead gorge, and spinning with a dead bait by casting, as in the
Thames, are comparatively rarely practised, although I believe that in
some portions of the rivers these methods would "pay." I have seen
fly-fishing for pike practised with success here, and I firmly believe
that on some of the shallower Broads it would be very deadly.
[Picture: Ormesby Broad--Landing stage]
Perch are only locally common wherever there is a suitable bottom for
them, as at Irstead Shoals and Hickling, and in some portions of the Bure
and Waveney, but they run to a large size, and are sometimes caught
between three and four pounds in weight.
Bream are most common of all, and may be caught by hundreds and the stone
weight. They run up to five and six pounds in weight, and a take by two
rods in a day of 150, averaging half-a-pound apiece, is not a rare event.
Roach are very numerous and large, many running close to two pounds in
weight.
Rudd are beautiful game fish, common in some of the Broads, particularly
Ormesby, and give rare sport if you get among a shoal of them.
Eels are, of course, present in any number, and "babbing" for them, with
a bunch of worms threaded on to worsted, is not a bad way of passing a
warm night.
Tench are common, but are not often caught with a rod and line. They are
taken in bow nets, and run very large. In hot weather, in June, they may
be taken by the hand as they bask in the shallow water among the weeds.
Some fishermen are very skilful in this particular mode of catching them.
Carp are caught sometimes, but not often, although there are plenty of
them.
Dace and gudgeon are not so frequently caught in the navigable waters as
other fish.
Chub and barbel are unknown in the Broad District.
The bream are so excessively abundant that they spoil the fishing for
other fish, notably for perch, and I think it would be an excellent thing
if the different preservation societies would set apart a few days each
year for systematic netting to thin the bream, replacing the other fish,
and selling those retained. What is the good to anglers of catching
thousands of small bream? Are not a score over a pound weight each
better than ten-score fingerlings? Judicious thinning out, under proper
supervision, would have a most beneficial effect on the size of the fish
generally.
There are several preservation societies, of which the Yare Preservation
Society is the chief. Mr. C. J. Greene, of London Street, Norwich,
Fishing Tackle Maker, is the honorary secretary. The objects of these
societies are to abolish netting and poaching, and protect the river for
fair angling. The subscriptions are nominal (5s.), and yet they are
supported entirely by local efforts. As a rule, none of the anglers from
London and other distant parts, who come down to Norfolk and have the
best of sport, contribute anything to the societies which are
instrumental in furnishing them with sport. This is exceedingly shabby
of visitors here, and I trust that those who have been induced to visit
the Broads through my writings will at least make the small return to
Norfolk anglers of assisting them in their efforts to make these waters
the best public fishing places in the kingdom.
There are a few professional fishermen to be hired by the angler.
"Professor" Day, of Richmond Hill, Norwich, is one of the best, and knows
every inch of water, and there are some good men at Oulton.
Strangers frequently complain that they cannot meet with the excellent
sport which falls to the lot of the local anglers, and I remember Mr.
Cholmondeley Pennel being immensely dispirited at his non-success on our
waters. I lately interviewed a local gentleman who is well known as a
successful fisherman, and I append my questions and his remarks thereon,
which will afford some valuable information.
ROACH.
_1. Where found at different periods of the year_?
Throughout the summer the entire length of our local streams where the
water is fresh and not salt or brackish; the finest fish and greatest
number between Cantley and Coldham Hall, on the Yare; large numbers also
in the dyke leading from Oulton Broad. In winter they appear generally
to retire to the deep waters, and are sometimes found in good quantity
about Thorpe Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots on
the Bure and other waters.
_2. Best periods to fish for them_?
July to October, but good catches may often be had in November, and
during the winter and early spring months by any expert angler who
doesn't mind the cold.
_3. What time of day at different seasons_?
As a rule, but few fish are caught during the middle of the day; this is
especially the case in bright warm weather. On dull, "close" days,
however, they will often bite freely throughout the day. The morning up
to about 11.30, and from 3 to 6 or 7 p.m. are undoubtedly the best times
to fish during summer, and in winter almost any time up to sunset.
_4. What depth of water_?
As a rule, the best fish are found during summer in the deepest water,
and should not be angled for on the Yare at a less depth than nine or ten
feet. On the Bure the deepest spots that can be found. In March or
April shallower waters should be tried.
_5. How affected by the tide_?
Variously. Sometimes an angler gets all his fish on the up tide, and at
other times on the ebb. I, however, suspect that certain local
formations of the river bed, have much to do with this.
_6. What ground-bait_?
The best I have ever used is composed of bran, bread, and boiled wheat,
in fair proportions, made up into firm balls about the size of an orange.
One of these thrown in occasionally, and now and then a few grains of
boiled wheat will generally suffice to keep a good quantity of fish about
your boat.
_7. Are places ever baited beforehand_?
Not often for roach. Believe this is done occasionally by some, but have
never practised it myself.
_8. What baits are most successful_?
During summer the most successful baits are well-boiled wheat and paste,
red or white, in such clear waters as the Waveney and the upper reaches
of Bure, etc. White paste is best on the Yare, the red always kills the
best fish. In autumn, gentles, and later on brandlings and gentles, or
better still, small red worms, "blood." There are many other baits used
with good success occasionally, but these are by far the most reliable.
_9. What kind of rod_?
For tight-line fishing in the deep waters of the Yare, the rod should be
light, stiff, and from 15 to 18 feet in length. For running tackle a
shorter rod will do, and for this I prefer one of hickory. Should
recommend cane for the longer kind.
_10. Number of hook_?
When the fish are of fair size, I use No. 9, at other times Nos. 10 or
12. Those known amongst anglers as "Crystal," are excellent for roach
fishing.
_11. Is running tackle advisable_?
Running tackle is decidedly preferable for such deep, strong waters as
those between Coldham Hall and Reedham. For the slower waters of the
Bure and the upper reaches of the Yare, I do not consider that running
tackle has any advantages worth naming.
_12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line_?
For deep-water fishing I always attach nine feet of gut to my line; six
feet moderately stout and three feet fine drawn. Line, a fine _braided_
silk. A light, well-shotted line of this kind has many advantages,
especially on a windy day.
_13. What kind of float_?
Quill at all times. For deep swift waters, a large pelican or swan
quill, for slower and shallower waters a much smaller one.
_14. Is line heavily shotted_?
For deep waters I use a float carrying upwards of 20 medium-sized shot.
These are placed on a space of about a foot, the bottom one not nearer
than about three feet from the hook, with just one shot on the gut
attached to hook. This arrangement ensures the bait being carried
swiftly to the bottom and kept steady, very important items in roach
fishing.
_15. Is float best attached by lower end only_?
Yes, this plan which has been in practice with the "Norwich School" for
many years past is decidedly the best, and admits of much more neatness
and accuracy in striking a fish than when the float is attached by upper
end as well as lower.
_16. Do you strike at first dip_?
When good fish are on the feed, the float is first affected by a slight
tremulous movement, and almost immediately settles down, generally in a
slanting direction; the moment to strike is just as the settling down
commences. This, however, requires a large amount of practice and some
keen observation before an angler becomes expert. Sudden perky bites
indicate small fish, and these are often the most difficult to catch.
_17. Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain, thick water,
etc., and is there any rule on this head_?
Have always found a S.W. to N.W. wind the most favourable, especially
when the water is "grey" or thick, and have had capital sport with a
moderate east wind, but never when it has blown strongly from that
quarter, and the old maxim
"When the wind blows from the east
The fish bite the least,
When the wind's from the west
The fish bite the best,"
contains a great truth in small compass. Fish may undoubtedly be taken
in clear water and in good quantity, but running tackle and fine, and
extreme caution are necessary.
_18. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or loud talking
frightens the fish_?
Loud talking or laughter in the boat does not appear to intimidate the
fish, but knocking or any disturbance which communicates a vibration to
the water is decidedly objectionable, especially in shallower streams,
and often causes a great interruption to the fishing. Have found a pair
of lawn-tennis shoes or slippers very good to wear in a boat when
fishing, for this reason.
_19. Name some of the best catches you have made or know of_.
I do not chronicle my catches, so can give no dates; but have had some
fine catches within the past five or six years, principally on the Yare.
On one occasion, at Buckenham, with a friend, six stone {160} between
2.30 and 7 p.m.; another time upwards of five stone in about the same
space of time, and numerous catches of from two to four stone in an
afternoon's fishing; also more than a bushel by measure one afternoon
with a friend fishing in the dyke leading to Oulton Broad. This was in
the first week of September, 1879.
_20. What is the reason of the non-success of strange anglers which is
so noticeable_?
Ignorance of the general requirements of tackle suitable for fishing in
our waters, and also of the _modus operandi_, one of the chief reasons
being a want of knowledge of the right depth at which to fish, which
could easily be known by simply "plumbing" the depth. By way of
instance, I have on several occasions found strangers fishing on the Yare
in 12 or 14 feet of water, with their baits only about four or five feet
below the surface, and at the same time wondering that anglers close by
should be catching plenty of fish when they could get none. Baits, too,
are doubtless used which, although very good for some streams or waters,
are of very little use with us.
N.B.--"When the wind blows strong and the waves roll high," it is often
very difficult to fish or even to detect a bite. This is very
tantalising, and not infrequently happens through a shift in the wind
when you are in a capital "swim." The remedy for this is to put on a
nice light ledger, with about three hooks, and with which excellent sport
may sometimes be had when it would be impossible to fish in any other
way.
In float fishing for roach, the bait should be just touching the bottom.
A good plan adopted by some is to fish with two hooks, the bottom one
dragging on the bottom, and the upper one about three or four inches
clear of the bottom. This is an advantage in fast streams, as it retards
the onward motion of the float, the bait is more easily taken, and the
swims are not passed so rapidly.
BREAM.
_1. Where found at different periods of the year_?
During summer, on the Yare, principally between Langley Dyke and Reedham;
in winter often found in good quantity in the vicinity of Thorpe Broad
and about Carrow and Trowse Hythe. On the Bure they appear to congregate
in the deep waters of the Broads in winter, and make their appearance
about the end of May and through the summer on the river.
_2. Best periods to fish for them_?
July and August.
_3. What time of day at different seasons_?
Good catches of bream are often had in early morning. I have, on the
other hand, had capital sport by moonlight.
For further notes, see answer to same question on "Roach."
_4. What depth of water_?
The deepest waters and quietest eddies are, as a rule, the best; but I
have caught large quantities of fine bream at Wroxham, on the Bure, in
not more than four feet and a half of water.
_5. How affected by the tide_?
Generally speaking, the most fish are taken from about half an hour
before high water to half an hour after. For further notes, see "Roach."
_6. What ground-bait_?
Boiled maize, boiled barley grains, barley meal made up into balls,
chopped worms, boiled rice. This latter and grains I have found very
killing on the Bure.
_7. Are places ever baited beforehand_?
Mostly overnight, where there is a fair opportunity of doing so. This
mode is very telling on Broads and other still waters.
_8. What baits are most successful_?
For large fish at Cantley, Reedham, Somerleyton, and other deep swift
waters, ledger fishing, with the tail end of a lobworm on the hook, is a
capital bait. Generally speaking, however, I have found "brandlings" the
most killing, and have found a brandling with a gentle placed on the
point of the hook will sometimes be taken readily when no other bait
would be touched. Red paste is often very killing on the Bure.
_9. What kind of rod_?
Strong and stiff cane or hickory, 15 to 18 feet long, with a good stout
top joint, on the Yare. Shorter will do on the Bure.
_10. Number of hook_?
The finest catch I ever had was with No. 12 hooks. This was, however, in
comparatively shallow water. Should say that No. 7 or 8 would be very
good sizes for bream fishing generally.
_11. Is running tackle advisable_?
See "Roach."
_12. Do you use gut or hair, and what kind of line_?
See "Roach."
_13. What kind of float_?
See "Roach."
_14. Is line heavily shotted_?
In a similar way to that recommended for roach, but having the bulk of
shot placed nearer the hook, it being necessary that the bait should
"drag" the bottom.
_15. Is float best attached by lower end only_?
As the bream bites more slowly and certain than the roach, this is quite
immaterial. I prefer float attached top and bottom.
_16. Do you strike at first dip_?
A bream bite affects the float with a slight bobbing motion for a few
seconds, he then runs off with it, and slides it down slantingly; strike
as he runs off with the bait or the float is about to disappear, and you
are sure of him.
_17_. _Are the fish much affected by change of wind, rain, thick water,
etc., and is there any rule on this head_?
Bream are rarely taken in any quantity when the waters are very clear.
See "Roach."
_18_. _Is legering successfully practised for large bream, and what is
the best modus operandi_?
In such rapid waters as those at Reedham, Somerleyton, etc.--no other
mode of fishing for bream can be practised with any success worth
naming--ledgers for attaching to line may be purchased at any tackle shop
at 1s. each, and the _modus operandi_ is very simple, and by no means
scientific. The rod requires to be very strong and of fair length, and
three or four rods may be used from one boat at the same time.
_19. Do you find that movement in the boat, noise, or loud talking
frightens the fish?_
Bream are very sensitive to noise, especially knocking in the boat, which
invariably sends them off for an indefinite period, and should therefore
be most carefully avoided.
_20. Name some of the best catches you have made or known of_.
About ten years ago, had, in company with a friend, a catch of 17 stone
in one day on Wroxham Broad, and with only one rod each. Have heard of
many catches from time to time of from 4 to 10 or 12 stone, but am unable
now to give names or dates.
_21. What is the reason of the non-success of strange anglers which is
so noticeable_?
See "Roach."
N.B. In fishing for bream, the bait should always drag on the bottom.
YACHTING.
It will have been gathered from the foregoing pages that the Rivers and
Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk present exceptional facilities for
small-boat sailing and smooth-water yachting, better, perhaps, than any
other part of England. There are two yachting clubs, the Norfolk and
Suffolk Yacht Club and the Yare Sailing Club, the latter a very
flourishing institution, furnishing four or five regattas in the year for
small 4-ton yachts and open boats.
There are numbers of suitable yachts for hire, but, owing to the frequent
changes of ownership, it is not practicable to give a list of those who
have boats for hire, which would be of any use. Enquiry at the inns at
Oulton, and advertisements in the Yarmouth and Norwich papers will
generally elicit suitable answers. Bullen, of Oulton, is a likely man to
have a yacht to let. Open sailing-boats with awnings to sleep under, and
small cabin yachts of four to ten tons, can be obtained of Loynes,
Wroxham; and comfortable craft they are. The awnings of the small boats
are waterproof, and most ingeniously constructed, and the boats can be
rowed or sailed anywhere. Loynes may be trusted to provide everything
that is necessary for comfort, and his yachts and boats are largely
patronized. They are all rigged Una fashion, with one sail, and are very
easily managed. Canoes and rowing boats are in plenty at the riverside,
at Norwich, Yarmouth, and Oulton.
As before stated, the goods traffic on the river is carried on by means
of sailing craft of from 20 to 70 tons burthen, called wherries. These
are long, shallow, graceful vessels, with an enormous mast, supporting
one enormous sail. The sail is spread by a long gaff, but there is no
boom. There is only one halyard, and the sail is hoisted by means of a
winch at the foot of the mast. There is no rigging to the mast except
the forestay, which is mainly of use for lowering the mast, the latter
being balanced on the tabernacle by a ton and a half of lead on its heel,
so that it is raised as easily as it is lowered. These wherries sail
very fast, very close to the wind, and are often managed by one man.
Yachts built on the wherry plan are very comfortable craft, and easily
managed.
Wherries are frequently hired by private parties, the hatches are raised
a plank or two higher to give greater head-room, the clean-swept hold is
divided into several rooms, and a capital floating house is extemporized.
There is now quite a fleet of permanently-fitted pleasure wherries on the
rivers, which have ample accommodation for a party or family, and are to
be hired at from 8 to 15 guineas a week.
A good way of seeing the rivers, if you have no boat, is to give a
wherryman a small sum to take you with him when he makes a passage.
There are always numbers of wherries leaving Norwich and Yarmouth, and if
you hail the one you fancy, you will be readily taken on board. Thus you
might sail from Norwich to Yarmouth one day, up to Wroxham the next, back
to Yarmouth and up to Beccles, at an expenditure of half-a-crown a day
and refreshments. I am sure that visitors to either Yarmouth or
Lowestoft will do well to avail themselves of this suggestion.
The navigation is controlled by Acts of Parliament, but pleasure yachts
are exempt from tolls, except, of course, at locks and Haddiscoe lift
bridge.
The rule of the road is very strictly adhered to by the wherries and
local yachts, and necessarily so; but it is a point of honour not to
harass business wherries if it can be avoided, as these are sailed for a
livelihood, while yachtsmen sail for pleasure. Therefore, if there is a
doubt, give the wherry the benefit of it.
It is also a point of prudence not to cross a wherry's bows too closely,
as they would soon smash up a yacht. If you are civil to a wherryman he
will be most civil to you, and don't slang him if he doesn't at once give
way for you to pass him.
The following racing regulations of the Yacht Clubs simply epitomise the
custom and practice on the rivers, and must be adhered to:
"That if two yachts be standing for the shore of any river or broad, and
the yacht to leeward be likely to run aground or foul any bottom or bank,
or not be able to stay without the windward yacht running foul of her,
the windward yacht must be put about upon being hailed by the member of
the Club who may be in charge of the leeward yacht; the yacht to leeward
must also go about at the same time as the yacht she hails.
"That in sailing to windward the yacht on the port tack must give way to
the yacht on the starboard tack, and in case of collision, the owner of
the vessel on the port tack shall be liable to pay all damages that may
occur, and forfeit all claim to the prize.
"That any yacht bearing away or altering her course to windward or
leeward, provided there is no obstruction to prevent her keeping her
course, thereby compelling another vessel to go out of her course, shall
forfeit all claim to the prize. In running before the wind, the side the
leading vessel carries her main boom is to be considered the lee side.
"A yacht overhauling another may pass to windward or leeward; and when
near the shore or shallow water, or when rounding any mark, flag, or
buoy, _if the bowsprit of the yacht astern overlap any portion of the
hull of the yacht ahead_, the latter must immediately give way and allow
the former to pass between her and such shore, shallow water, mark, flag,
or buoy; and should any yacht not give way or compel another to touch the
ground, or to foul any mark, flag, or buoy, the yacht so compelling her
shall forfeit all claim to the prize, her owner shall pay all damage that
may occur, and the yacht so compelled to touch such mark, flag, or buoy
shall not in this case suffer any penalty for such contact.
"It is an established rule, and should be most strictly attended to by
all yachtsmen, that where two vessels have to cross each other on
opposite tacks, the one on the starboard tack must invariably keep her
wind, and the one on the port tack must keep away and pass to leeward, or
tack short when the smallest doubt exists of her not being able to
weather the other. All expenses of damage incurred by vessels on
opposite tacks running on board each other, fall upon the one on the port
tack; but where the one on the starboard tack has kept away with the
intention of passing to leeward, and they have come in contact, the
expenses of damage fall upon her on the starboard tack, because by her
keeping away she may have prevented the other passing to leeward. When a
vessel on the starboard tack sees another attempting to weather her, when
it does not seem possible, rather than keep away, she should put her helm
down, for the less way vessels have when they come in contact, the less
damage they will sustain. Should both vessels put their helms up and run
on board each other, the most fatal consequences may arise, and therefore
nothing should induce the vessel on the starboard tack to keep away. All
vessels going free must give way to those on a wind."
SHOOTING AND SKATING.
This district is well worth a visit in the winter time, for the wild-fowl
shooting on the tidal portions of the rivers is free (of course you must
not trespass on the marshes for shooting purposes, as the shooting along
them is strictly preserved). The usual plan is to row along the river
while your dogs work through the reeds on the bank inside the river wall,
or embankment, which generally runs parallel with the rivers on each
side. Flight shooting is also successfully pursued, but of course you
must obtain information as to the best spots in the line of flight.
Oulton Broad is free, but is much shot over. Breydon Water is a capital
fowling-ground in hard winters. It is the "happy hunting ground" of
Yarmouth gunners. An easily managed sailing-boat of light draught is
useful for this kind of work.
Winter time on the Broads is very enjoyable. Being so shallow, the
Broads are soon frozen, and the skating is then simply superb. Fancy
Hickling, a lake of 400 acres, safe all over, with the ice as clear and
hard as glass, _and plenty of "elbow-room_" for ice-boats as well as
skaters.
It would be worth while for skating parties to come down for a few days
at a time while the frosts last, instead of struggling amid the crowds
which beset London waters.
FAUNA OF THE BROADS.
I cannot do more than cursorily mention the abundant life which teems
amid the Broads. I would refer the reader, for a full account of the
life of the Broads thirty years ago and now, to that charming book,
worthy to be ranked with "The Complete Angler," and "The Natural History
of Selborne," "Observations on the Fauna of Norfolk, and more
particularly on the District of the Broads," by the Rev. Richard Lubbock,
M.A., a new edition of which, with suitable notes by Mr. Thomas
Southwell, has lately been issued by Messrs. Jarrold and Sons, London and
Norwich. This book, together with Stevenson's "Birds of Norfolk," are
necessary companions to the ornithologist on the Broads. For a fuller
general descriptive account of the district, I may also refer the reader
to my own larger book, "Norfolk Broads and Rivers," published by
Blackwood.
Of course, water-fowl predominate. The heron, the great-crested grebe,
the coot and water-hen are constantly to be seen. Dabchicks abound in
places. I have seen a score together in some open water, at Surlingham,
during a frost. Kingfishers are seen occasionally; water-ouzels never in
the navigable waters. Wild ducks, widgeon, teal, and other ducks, gulls,
terns, and waders of many species, hawks, kestrels, marsh harriers, and
hen harriers are occasionally met with, particularly about Hickling.
Owls, reed wrens, reed buntings, and bearded tits (I know a colony of the
latter), and other birds occur to me as I write, but detailed lists of
the Norfolk species will be found in the "Transactions of the Norfolk and
Norwich Naturalists' Society" of past years. It is sufficient to say
that not only in the department of ornithology, but of entomology and
botany, the specialist will find abundant work. During the days and
nights I have spent in the more secluded parts of the waters, and
particularly in the very early hours after daybreak, I have watched the
habits of certain rare species, and discovered their haunts, which I
would not reveal for anything, for to do so would be to expose them to
the ravages of collectors. I am not a collector myself, nor have I the
remotest pretension to science, but I am an enthusiastic student of what
I may call the "home-life" of birds and animals. Therefore I cannot give
accurate scientific information, in the shape of lists of Broad species
without borrowing from the labours of others, and the clothing the dry
bones with flesh would require more space than a guide-book will allow.
But let a man lie in a boat, amid the reeds, for an hour of the silvery
dawn, and watch a pair of great-crested grebes, feeding their young ones
with small fish, and teaching them to dive and catch fish also, all so
close that you might at times touch the birds with a fishing-rod, and he
will partly understand what to me is the charm of Natural History. And
for the romance of it there is no place like the reed-surrounded Broad
and its marshy borders.
Footnotes.
{29} This bridge was the scene of a most disastrous railway collision,
in September, 1874, when two trains met, and an appalling loss of life
resulted, 25 persons being killed, and 60 or 70 injured.
{70} [Note. This is left as first written, but it is necessary now to
say that since the death of Mr. Chamberlin, the owners of the Broad have
obtained a decision in the Superior Courts that the public have no right
to fish on Wroxham Broad, and although the navigation question has not
been raised, the owners claim the Broad to be private property. At the
same time they courteously disclaim any intention of closing the Broad to
the reasonable enjoyment of the public. Sailing on the Broad is freely
permitted, but yachts are not allowed to moor there at night, on account,
it is said, of the unavoidable refuse floating against the private
pleasure grounds of the owners. Persons also are not allowed to land.
It is to be hoped that the good behaviour of the public will remove all
idea of closing the Broad to the public, which would be nothing short of
a calamity. The regattas on this Broad which used to be such sources of
amusement, have been quite discontinued, partly on account of the
difficulty in getting the present racing craft up the North River, and
partly through the reluctance of yacht owners to ask the favour of
sailing where they formerly supposed they had a right.]
{91} Sometimes called Wannick, or Wandyke, said to be a corruption of
Swandyke.
{160} Stone = 14 lbs.