This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.
[Picture: Wroxham Broad]
Jarrolds' "Holiday" Series.
* * * * *
THE HANDBOOK
TO THE
RIVERS AND BROADS
OF
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
BY
G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES,
_Author of_ "_Norfolk Broads and Rivers_," "_The Swan and her Crew_,"
_etc., etc_.
* * * * *
REVISED AND ENLARGED.
* * * * *
EIGHTEENTH EDITION.
* * * * *
JARROLD AND SONS,
3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON;
LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH.
BRANCHES: 182, KING STREET, GREAT YARMOUTH;
THE LIBRARY, CROMER.
(_All rights reserved_.)
CONTENTS.
_Chapter_ _Page_
INTRODUCTION. xi
I. THE BROAD DISTRICT. 17
II. DOWN THE YARE--NORWICH TO REEDHAM. 22
III. REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH. 43
IV. YARMOUTH TO ACLE. 51
V. ACLE TO WROXHAM. 57
VI. WROXHAM BROAD. 68
VII. WROXHAM TO COLTISHALL. 75
VIII. UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 81
IX. WOMACK BROAD. 91
X. HICKLING BROAD. 98
XI. HORSEY MERE AND SOMERTON BROAD. 106
XII. BACK TO YARMOUTH. 114
XIII. YARMOUTH TO SOMERLEYTON, UP THE WAVENEY. 117
XIV. FROM SOMERLEYTON TO BECCLES. 124
XV. OULTON BROAD. 129
XVI. ORMESBY AND FRITTON. 136
APPENDIX.
RAILWAY ACCESS TO FISHING STATIONS 138
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT 143
TABLES OF RIVER DISTANCES 148
TIDES 151
FISHING GENERALLY 151
ROACH 155
BREAM 161
YACHTING 165
SHOOTING AND SKATING 170
FAUNA OF THE BROADS 171
ILLUSTRATIONS.
_Page_
WROXHAM BROAD _Frontispiece_
A POOL IN SURLINGHAM BROAD xvi
PULL'S FERRY 22
BISHOP'S BRIDGE 25
BOOM TOWER 26
THORPE GARDENS 29
A NORFOLK WHERRY 30
ON THE YARE, AT BRAMERTON 33
ON ROCKLAND BROAD 36
LANGLEY DYKE 38
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH, GREAT YARMOUTH 41
THE QUAY, GREAT YARMOUTH 45
A "ROW," GREAT YARMOUTH 49
ST. BENET'S ABBEY 54
COTTAGE, SOUTH WALSHAM BROAD 58
HORNING VILLAGE 60
RANWORTH CHURCH 61
HORNING FERRY 67
BELAUGH CHURCH 73
DYKE NEAR COLTISHALL 76
LUDHAM BRIDGE 78
RIVER BURE AT HAUTBOIS 79
A WOODLAND POOL--IRSTEAD 82
ENTRANCE--BARTON BROAD 87
CARRYING REEDS--BARTON 88
BARTON STAITHE 90
ORMESBY BROAD--LANDING STAGE 91
DRAINAGE MILL--RIVER THURNE 92
RIVER THURNE 92
HICKLING BROAD 99
DYKE AT POTTER HEIGHAM 100
HICKLING STAITHE 104
MARTHAM BROAD 105
SOUND ASLEEP 108
SOMERLEYTON HALL 120
RIVER WAVENEY 128
OULTON BROAD 130
FRITTON DECOY 137
ORMESBY BROAD--LANDING STAGE 152
INTRODUCTION.
Since the first appearance of this Handbook, and the larger volume on the
same subject, which the preface to the first edition stated to be in
contemplation, the Broad District has become highly popular. Each year
the tourist stream increases, but, happily, there is still plenty of
room. No doubt some of the old _habitues_, who liked to have the whole
landscape to themselves, grumble at the change, but the less selfish
persons, who happily constitute the majority, do not object to seeing a
dozen yachts where formerly they saw but one, or a score of anglers where
in past years but half-a-dozen might be seen.
A large trade has arisen in the letting of yachts, boats, and pleasure
wherries for cruising purposes; but the inn accommodation has made little
advance, and is still too meagre, and insufficient for the demand. The
yachts have made great strides in speed and in number. The Norfolk and
Suffolk Yacht Club has flourished exceedingly, and its regattas are
popular.
Artists have found out the charm of the quiet scenery of the Broads, and
visit us in great numbers. Notably Mr. E. H. Fahey and Miss Osborn have
given exhibitions in London devoted to the district. Then _litterateurs_
without number have written magazine and newspaper articles, and others,
after a few days' scamper, have written exhaustive guide-books; and so
the ball, which the present writer set rolling in earnest some years ago,
is helped merrily forward, and the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and
Suffolk are fast becoming one of the most popular of English playgrounds.
I should like to put the brake on a little in one respect. One
guide-book writer appears to treat the riverside meadows as commons, and
suggests that yachtsmen should bring lawn-tennis sets and cricket
materials with them. Pray don't take such absurd advice. All riparian
owners adhere stoutly to their just rights. It must be remembered that
the rights of the public are limited to _passage along_ the navigable
rivers and the navigable broads, and the use of the banks of navigable
waters for mooring purposes and for towing. The soil of the greater part
of the river-beds is vested in the Crown, therefore angling is free to
the public. Strictly speaking, the shooting over the Crown rivers is
free, but this does not give persons a right to shoot an inch over the
banks. Looking to the fact that the Bure is very narrow, and passes
through private game preserves, let me earnestly entreat visitors not to
fire off guns either at birds or at bottles (which last amusement appears
to be a favourite one) above Acle bridge. The sport to the visitors is
_nil_, while the annoyance to the riparian owners is extreme. The
riparian owners are generally willing to afford the well-behaved public
all reasonable facilities for enjoyment. Let this be repaid by the
public refraining from potting away at waterhens and pigeons, or other
birds on the banks.
It may be well to add that, up to about the year 1830, the Broads and wet
marshes were simply waste; but by the Enclosure Acts and Awards, these
watery commons were allotted and divided among the neighbouring
landowners. In some cases the rights of navigation and staithes were
expressly reserved. In others no reservation was made, and the Broads
are absolutely in the hands of private owners. In other cases again,
staithes and rights of way have grown into disuse, and channels have
become choked up by mud and vegetation. In no case, however, has the
right of the Crown to the bed of the common river been affected or
changed by the Enclosure Awards.
A great point to remember is, that the possessors of the Broads set as
much store by their bulrushes and water lilies as the admiring visitor;
therefore, do not gather any off the Broads. All flowers and grasses
which grow in such luxuriance by the riverside, within the river wall, or
the three yards from the river margin where the navigator has an
indefeasible right, may as well be gathered for pleasure as die and rot.
Here there is abundance for everyone; but to penetrate into quiet nooks
of Broads and help oneself to other people's valued property, is an
indefensible act, which by oft repetition has much irritated owners
against the public. It is in this respect also that visitors from a
distance are most prone to err, because, without reflection, it appears
that no harm is done. Nor would there be much harm in a single instance,
but "many a little makes a mickle."
As a general rule, visitors from a distance behave exceedingly well,
being educated persons with a due sense of law and order. The bottle
shooters, coot potters, and noisy revellers, the swan's egg robbers and
grebe destroyers, the persons who use one's boat-houses as luncheon rooms
or dust bins are, unfortunately, home products. Of course, I hear of all
offences that are committed, and by some people I am actually saddled
with the responsibility of any breach of good manners on the part of the
public, because I am supposed to have brought the latter to the Broads.
I therefore beg the large unknown public (of whose friendliness to me as
an author I have had so many proofs), when they visit the Broads, not to
allow the exhilaration of an enjoyable holiday to interfere with a due
propriety of behaviour.
The hitherto unwritten rules of the Rivers and Broads are these:--
Do not, in the neighbourhood of other yachts or houses, indulge in songs
and revelry after eleven p.m., even at regatta times.
Bathe only before eight o'clock in the morning, if in sight of other
vessels or moored in a frequented part of the river. Ladies are not
expected to turn out before eight, but after that time they are entitled
to be free from any annoyance. Young men who lounge in a nude state on
boats while ladies are passing (and I have known Norwich youths to do
this) may be saluted with dust shot, or the end of a quant.
Adhere strictly to the rule of the road when boating, according to the
instructions contained in a subsequent chapter, and when angling, moor
out of the way of sailing craft, as afterwards explained.
Do not throw straw or paper overboard to float to leeward and become
offensive; but burn, or take care to sink all rubbish.
Do not light fires, place stoves, or throw refuse on the banks in the
path of others, whose yachts may be moored to the same bank.
Steam launches must not run at full speed past yachts moored to the bank,
particularly when the occupants of the latter have things spread out for
a meal.
Don't take guns on board unless you have leave to shoot on somebody's
land.
Remember that sound travels a long way on the water, and do not criticise
the people you may encounter with too loud a voice.
Don't go on a friend's yacht with nailed shoes (the commodore of a Thames
sailing club once came on board mine in cricket shoes armed with spikes).
Don't knock the ashes out of your pipe into his boat, and don't catch
small fish and litter his decks with them, leaving them for him to clean
up after you.
[Picture: A pool in Burlingham Broad]
Don't moor outside another yacht without the permission of its owner.
Ladies, please don't gather armfuls of flowers, berries, and grasses
which, when faded, you leave in the boat or yacht for the unfortunate
skipper to clear up. Don't play the piano in season and out of season
(the reedbird's song is sweeter on the Broads); and don't turn out before
eight o'clock in the morning when other yachts are near.
Observing all these simple maxims, any number of visitors will find
plenty of room for their own enjoyment, without offence to anyone.
[Picture: View of Sailing boats and Yachts]
CHAPTER I.
THE "BROAD" DISTRICT.
[Picture: Decorative drop capital] It is somewhat difficult to analyse
the charm which the "Broad" District of Norfolk and Suffolk has for those
who have once made its acquaintance in the only way in which an intimate
knowledge of it can be gained.
In a journey through it by rail, you see nothing but its flatness; walk
along its roads, you see the dullest side of it; but take to its
water-highways, and the glamour of it steals over you, if you have aught
of the love of nature, the angler, or the artist in you.
One reason may be that the rivers are highways. From them you view
things as from a different standpoint; along them flows a current of life
differing from that on either rail or road: the wind is your servant,
sometimes your master; there is an uncertainty in the issue of the day's
proceedings, which to an idle holidaymaker is most delightful, and the
slowly-moving water is more like a living companion than any other
inanimate thing can be. Houses are few and far between. Oftentimes
within the circle of your sight there is neither house nor man visible.
A grey church tower, a windmill, or the dark-brown sail of a wherry in
the distance breaks the sense of utter loneliness, but the scene is wild
enough to enchain the imagination of many. Long miles of sinuous
gleaming river, marshes gay with innumerable flowering plants, wide
sheets of water bordered with swaying reeds, yachts or wherries, boats,
fish, fowl, and rare birds and plants, and exquisite little bits to paint
and sketch--these are the elements out of which a pleasant holiday may be
made.
I wrote these lines whilst at anchor on Salhouse Little Broad. The
evening was most still and placid, and the boat lay motionless among the
lily leaves which covered the water around. The white lilies had so
closed their petals that but the faintest morsels of white peeped out;
but the yellow, which were most numerous, did not close so completely,
and the dark interspaces of water were thickly starred with the golden
globes. Beyond the lily leaves was a belt of tall reeds, swayed only by
the birds which have their home among them. The yellow iris flowers made
the narrow neck of marsh ablaze with colour. Bounding the view was a
cordon of trees; on the one side a wooded bank; on the other, but out of
sight, the river. A rustic boathouse nestled amid the trees, white swans
lighted up the dark shades, moorhens led their broods across the pool;
the western clouds were edged with sunset glories, and the reflections in
the water were as perfect as the things they copy. But though there was
absolute calm, the lily leaves were not still, but moved tremulously, and
sent ripples on either side. Looking closely, you saw that the leaves
were covered with small insects, and the small roach were busily plucking
them off the under side. You could hear the little snap or suck the
fishes made, and once you caught the sound you found the air was full of
these snaps, and a most weird effect the sound gave. The roach crowded
eagerly round to eat the crumbs that I threw them. So fearless were
they, that when I put my hand into the water and held it quite still for
a while, they came and snapped at my fingers, and funny little tickling
scrapes they gave. I actually succeeded in grasping one or two of the
boldest. A piece of paper, which had been crumpled up and thrown on the
water, was being urged to and fro by the hungry little fish, who tried to
find it eatable, and tugged at it bravely.
The clouds darkened. I went into my cabin as a squall of wind and rain
came on. The thunder grew louder and louder, and there, alone, with the
tempest raging, I could yet write that the end of the evening was as
pleasant as the beginning, so great to me is the charm of the water.
I slung my hammock, hoping that on the following day the sun would shine,
the wind would blow, and the hours would pass as quickly as the boat
sailed, and slept as sound as man may.
It has happened that I have written a good deal about these waters--too
much, some people say. One result has been that I have been pretty well
overpowered with correspondence arising from persons making enquiries
about the district, with a view to visiting it; therefore, when the
publishers requested me to write a kind of handbook or guide to the
Broads and Rivers, I thought it a good idea, in that enquirers might, by
buying such a book, save themselves the trouble of writing to me, and
getting necessarily short and inadequate replies. I am afraid, however,
the guide-book style is rather beyond me, and I shall be most at home if
I try to convey the requisite information by describing one of the
numerous cruises in which I have sailed as guide to those friends who
have trusted their holidays to my care, and I will select one lasting but
a fortnight, during which time we covered most of the available ground.
Before doing so, a few words, descriptive of the situation of these
rivers and lakes, will not be amiss.
From Yarmouth, looking inland, three main water-highways radiate. The
chief is the Yare, flowing from the westward; then comes the Bure,
flowing from the north-westward, and having her large tributaries, the
Ant and the Thurne, flowing from the northward. From the south-west come
the clear waters of the Waveney. All these rivers are navigable for
considerable distances, and on the Bure and its tributaries the greater
number of the Broads are situate. These Broads are large shallow lakes,
connected with the rivers, and are many of them navigable. Flat marshes
follow the lines of the rivers, and while higher and well-wooded ground
rises near the upper portions of the rivers, near the sea the country is
perfectly flat, and vessels sailing on all three rivers are visible at
the same time.
The level of the marsh is frequently below that of the rivers, and at the
outlet of each main drain is a drainage pump, or turbine wheel, sometimes
worked by a windmill, and sometimes by steam, which pumps the water out
of the drains into the rivers.
The fall of the river is about four inches to the mile. The ebb and flow
of the tide are felt for thirty miles inland, but its rise and fall are
very little indeed. There are no impediments to navigation of any
consequence, so it may be imagined what a "happy hunting ground" this is
to the boat-sailor, the naturalist, and the angler.
[Picture: Decorative chapter end divider]
[Picture: Decorative chapter header divider]