Before proceeding with what I consider the best methods in this
department of the watch and jewelry business, I will say that I do
not, by any means, consider that my way is the best, for although I
have been in the business quite a while, yet I find that I learn
something new almost every day that I live, and expect to do so, so
long as I continue in the business. Be very particular in selecting
your tools; about three widths of screwdrivers, and keep them in the
best of order, square across the point of blade, and never use a
screwdriver too narrow nor too wide for the screw, and in using be
careful not to let it slip, and thus mar the plates or bridges of a
watch. I also recommend that the handles of these screwdrivers be of
different shapes or styles, so as to save time in picking up the one
you want (and just here I will say that every device or method that
saves time will be of great value to the operator); then have about
the same number of tweezers (3), one of good, solid, heavy points, say
1/16 inch wide at the points, for taking down a watch, and handling
the heavier parts, and then one a little finer, and one very fine to
work in about the train, hairspring, etc., and always keep these
tweezers in perfect order at the points, so that whatever you handle,
you will not mar or drop the things you are handling. Right in this
connection I will say that I cannot find tweezers that suit me. So I
make my own, and you can do the same if you will by selecting some
nice steel. Then a good assortment of pliers, cutting, flat, and
round. In selecting brushes, you will have to be very particular and
secure the open and straight bristle brushes, which are also hard to
find these latter years. Take all the coarser brushes and hold them on
a coarse grindstone, running them whole length, both ways; this takes
off the new rough end of the bristles before using first time. Then
there are punches, broaches, drills, calipers, countersinks, files,
etc., etc. Besides this, I have adopted the plan of making any tool I
happen to need for any special purpose, so that by making these at the
time I happen to want a tool that I cannot purchase, I have
accumulated quite a variety of odd tools; among them are a varied lot
of millers, for milling and raising jewels, and deepening the
countersink holes for jewel settings and screw heads, also a tool for
holding a roller, to set the jewel pin, and one for holding the hair
spring collet, and a pair of tweezers for holding jewels while
cleaning, etc., etc. As to lathes, I have found that there is a
necessity of about two lathes; one a Swiss, light running lathe for
cementing any pivot work, and I prefer these because they run much
lighter and easier than those heavier American lathes; and yet if
confined to but one lathe, I would use a small sized American lathe,
with a good assortment of split chucks, particularly those with the
smaller sized holes, for holding balance staffs, wheel arbors, etc.,
which come in use almost everyday, for taking off the burr from the
point of a balance pivot, which has come from a collapse of the case;
driving the end stones down on the end of pivots, even sometimes to
the extent of heading them over inside of the hole jewel. These small
size split chucks I have found extremely useful for the last named
purpose, and I am not so "sentimental" but that I oftener use these
split chucks, even for setting fine balance pivots, rather than take
time to cement them; and while I do not advise the use of a split
chuck for this purpose in every case, yet with a little experience one
can tell when a staff is held so that the new pivot when set will
"line" and be true, and of a clear beat or swing. To make a very nice
pivot the cementing process is preferable, and yet, for nearly a year,
my old No. 1 American lathe was not set up (for reasons I need not
take space to explain), and during that time I employed a very
skillful workman to do my pivoting, and this man would not think of
ever doing a nice job unless he cemented it, and I can assure you that
he put in more pivots out of line, and out of true, in the course of
those few months, than I had done badly in my life. Speaking of
"sentiment," I will say that too many young workmen use the lathe too
much, and seem to depend on a fine looking lathe and handsome tools,
and spend too much time in using the lathe and in decorating their
bench with a fine display. But don't construe this as meaning that one
can do nice work with a jack knife and handsaw, for I most certainly
believe in a good and substantial set of tools, or I would not have
taken so much space in speaking of them. Next, one must have a good
bench, wide and of good length: and if no other drawers, a shallow
depth drawer, exactly in center of the bench, with no knob in front,
but rather a lip running its whole length, underneath. So that
wherever you place your hand you can pull it out. This drawer I would
have large and roomy (wide and long and extending back as far as the
depth of the bench will allow, but shallow, not deep down in), and
then partition it off by narrow slats, diagonally across it, running
these slats from the extreme near right hand corner to the further and
extreme left hand corner, so that as you reach your right hand in to
take out a tool, you can grasp it naturally without twisting or
cramping your hand. About eight inches below the top of the bench, I
would place a skin drawer (the name comes from the practice at watch
factories, formerly using sheepskins for the bottoms), which is made
with a square frame (say like a picture frame), sliding on slats or a
groove, so that it can be drawn out toward the operator, and when so
drawn, the elbows will rest on this frame, with the wrists resting on
the edge of the top of the bench, thus giving a firm support for both
arms and hands, and this frame having stretched across its bottom a
skin or canvas, will catch and retain anything that drops or rolls
from the bench. This latter drawer I consider almost an indispensable
article to doing good and successful work. At the right hand of these
two drawers named, running down to floor if need be, there can be a
series of drawers for tools and materials. Now with these equipments,
and some others, not herein named, such as vise, file block, bench
stake or anvil, and a large variety of such tools as will accumulate,
I am ready to give you my ideas regarding the cleaning and repairing
of watches. First and foremost, do not undertake any job that you have
any or considerable doubt but what you can do successfully, and never
leave a job worse than you found it; and never mar, cut, or slash any
part of a watch. In other words, don't undertake a job that you have
doubts as to whether you can do it correctly. One of my old masters
told me never to undertake to improve on the maker's work, and this,
while not true in every case (particularly cheap watches), yet is a
safe rule to go by. Never allow your file, screwdriver, pliers,
tweezers, or any tool to deface any part of a watch. I shall speak of
this as I proceed. First, be careful and not let the movement swing so
as to in any way injure the balance, in taking from case, and if a
lever watch, take out the balance the first thing after getting out of
case. Now see that the mainspring is let down and then remove the
screws from the plates, taking care not to damage or bend any of the
pivots as you do this. When all in pieces, before you proceed to
clean, examine with a strong glass to see if the rim of any wheel is
rubbing or clashing with anything, particularly the center wheel in
any full plate American watch, for these wheels are often dragging on
the plate or striking the ratch wheel because it is not true, and if
examined before cleaning the places where it drags, are a tell-tale of
the mischief. Also make any diagnosis of the watch that is needed to
discover any errors from wear or accident, and correct them before
going further, such as looking to each jewel, pivot, and other parts,
and make all necessary repairs before cleaning. I have been in the
habit for several years of putting my balance wheel separate from all
connections, and trying its freedom in all positions, and if you will
try this method, you will be surprised how many you will find that
bind or are not perfectly free in all positions, when you give them
the very slightest impulse by a twirl of the hand, holding the plate.
Then, too, a careful examination of each jewel; you will be surprised
how many are either loose in the setting or plate. In regard to
cleaning, I use the old method (after trying all ways suggested)--that
of chalk (but I use the old lump chalk, for those carpenters' chalk
balls are made with some kind of paste that adheres to the plate)--and
have this lump of chalk at my right hand, in a perforated bottom box,
so that any coarse pieces fall through to the floor, and by rubbing
the brush across it and then giving it a slight rap, before applying
it to plate, any hard or heavy substance will fall out, and then with
light pressure with the brush that is medium soft (and prepared on
grindstone as before mentioned, if a new one) brush the plates, with
an occasional breathing on the surface, clean the old oil or tarnish,
and then peg out each hole many times, until you are sure every hole
is clean, by pegging both sides, and then with a soft dust brush dust
thoroughly by striking the brush into the holes on both sides. Of
course, remove all end stones, and clean out with soft pith, holding
the jewels in a pair of hook nose tweezers, mentioned. Should the
plates and wheels be very much soiled and oily, a covered dish of
alcohol is indispensable, and I have had a glass stopper bottle, with
ether, in which to dip the jewels, pallets, and other small pieces,
which takes the oil all off, but be sure and clean off with soft pith
or pegwood such pieces as you have thus dipped. This ether will carry
all loose lint or other things to its bottom, from hairsprings or
roller table, and if held but a moment will do effective work, and not
loosen shellac.
Regarding loose jewels, I am not so sentimental as to refuse using
some shellac, if the burnished lip has been so thin as to be partially
gone, thus loosening the jewel to hold in the jewel, by taking small
and minute particles, and placing around the edge of the jewel, and
then holding the plate or bridge over an alcohol flame, and allowing
the shellac to flow around the jewel and fasten it firm, and by this
process I have kept jewels firm in place for years, with no other
attention than the first, and as a rule this can be done and not show.
When you have thoroughly cleaned the different parts, holding
everything with soft tissue paper, then with the paper put the watch
together, never forcing any part into place, and when screwed or
pinned together, try every wheel to see that there is the proper end
and side shake to each pivot, then introduce the balance wheel, having
been once tried alone as described, and see that the banking pins are
so adjusted that the guard pin on the fork (lever) does not drag on
either side, and that the jewel pin enters the slot, clearing the
opposite corner, and that the guard pin is so in position that it will
not allow the pin to pass by at any point and bring the jewel pin
outside the lever, or so it will strike in hollow, or on the corners
of the hollow of the roller. When you have oiled each pivot exactly on
its connecting point of bearing with just the right amount of oil (of
course, oil those jewels having end stones before putting watch
together), your watch is ready for the dial, and in replacing the
hands you cannot be too particular about their being free and clearing
each other and the dial and glass. There is the care of the mainspring
I have intentionally reserved till the last. There are lots of
theories why a spring will break just after cleaning, but I only know
that since I have adopted the method of never taking out the spring
(except when, after taking off the cap of barrel, I find it is all
gummed up with bad oil, and then of course clean it) I have found that
a spring does not break any oftener than is common, even if the watch
is not cleaned; but I invariably remove the barrel arbor and clean out
the holes and the arbor itself.
Of course to explain every detail of the method of repairing the
various parts of a watch would take more space than you would allow in
your journal, and hence I will not attempt to go into minute detail,
except perhaps some of the more important items, and the most common
things found in everyday experience. Among these are broken pivots,
worn pivots (sometimes requiring new ones), worn holes in plates, and
at the intersection of barrel arbor, ratch and bridge of Swiss
watches, etc., which, as a rule, require common sense as much as
practice, and it varies in different watches, so that the common sense
rule applies the best to nearly all of these, and if you have not got
common mechanical sense, then you have mistaken your calling and
should do something else. In any of these repairs don't go it blind,
but study your case carefully and do the best thing you study out.
When there is a worn pivot hole in a plate, and one side is
countersunk for oil, then have a punch rounded at the point, just the
shape of the countersink (and if you have not one make one, and here
is where my rule, that of making a tool as the need comes for it,
comes in play), and by screwing this punch into the vise, and with a
smooth, flat point punch (slightly cornered of course) in one hand and
holding the plate or bridge with the other, with the countersink on
the punch, have a striker tap light and quick blows, and you move the
punch around on the side most worn (and one side is almost invariably
worn most, throwing the wheel arbor out of upright) and close up, even
a little too much, and then with a round, smooth broach enlarge it, so
that it will be right size, and this leaves it hard and smooth.
Broken pivots, as I have hinted, I place the arbor in a split chuck,
and if true, I drill into the staff with a drill, made from a nice
piece of steel wire, the old and ordinary shape of a drill, which is a
trifle larger at the cutting point than it is back of the point, and I
make these as I need them, and harden simply by holding the wire in a
flame till red hot, and then dash into an apple, potato, soap, or pure
rubber. Which is the best of these I have as yet been unable to
determine, so I use either as the most handy. Take a good, tough and
small pointed graver and turn a slight center in the end of arbor I am
to drill, and then by giving my lathe a back and forward motion, I
begin to drill, and by the sense of feeling I can tell whether my
drill is cutting or not, and if not, I have a small, smooth oilstone
at hand and sharpen the drill as often as it refuses to cut, and if
that drill will not cut, I make another.
I make my drills of very small wire, filing them at point and then tap
the point (holding the wire in a very fine pin vise), thus flattening
as well as spreading it, and then shape the cutting edges as spoken of
above. When you have drilled sufficiently to hold a plug firmly, then
have a piece of steel of spring temper filed so as to fit closely and
so straight that it will not act too wedging (and split the arbor),
drive it in, cut it off and turn down, finishing with an oilstone
slip, and polish by running the lathe rapidly and with a piece of thin
boxwood (or hard pegwood) charged with diamantine, being sure that the
end of the pivot has no burr, thrown either way, over end or on side,
for such a burr will cause a lack of freedom of a balance pivot
particularly. This matter of setting pivots requires a longer
experience than almost any other work, and it needs a long practice to
do a nice job. If your split chuck will not hold your staff or arbor
true, then use cement; but in this, too, you must be sure that your
center is true, and that the sound pivot enters it perfectly.
Sometimes you meet with steel so hard that you cannot touch it with a
drill, in which case draw the temper of the staff or arbor you are
drilling, and if it projects so little that you cannot draw the temper
without injury to the wheel, then unstake or separate the wheel, and
by drilling a hole into a piece of brass wire, about the size of the
staff you are drilling, insert the staff in this hole, and then heat
the wire near the staff and thus gradually and yet effectively draw
the temper.
I consider it well for young workmen to practice pivot setting in some
old and useless watch any spare time they may have, and thus become
adepts at this work. Unhindered, I am not over on an average of
one-half hour in setting any ordinary pivot, especially if I do not
have to cement my work. If this is a balance pivot, be very careful to
see that your balance is true and poised before putting on hairspring
and roller. There are some pivots that are underturned (to make look
tidy and light), and sometimes it is about an impossibility to put in
a new one, and in this case, if an American watch, I always put in an
entire new staff, and hence keep a full assortment on hand.
Regarding replacing broken jewels, I also keep a full stock of these,
turned (the setting) to match any make or style of watch; except, of
course, Swiss watches, and for these I keep a large assortment of
sizes, both of cock and foot and wheel jewels, and a full stock once
procured, they last a long time and are a good investment, for with
them you can meet any emergency.
In a Swiss watch, or any watch where the jewel is set into the plate,
have some one of the devices for throwing up the burnished lip, and
then select a jewel that just fills the space, and then with a smooth
pointed punch, such as I described I used for closing up a pivot hole,
I turn this lip back by sliding this round pointed punch around the
outside, making it act as a burnish. Cap jewels I either treat in the
same manner as the last, or cut away the setting, and insert them as
they are inserted in most Swiss watches.
I have now taken up the more common repairs, and will close by hastily
speaking of the more rare cases, and the adjustment of the hair
spring, etc., etc. It is often the case that there is never end shake
to the balance to make it absolutely safe when screwed into the case,
and when this happens I take the point of a sharp graver and prick up
a burr on the bridge, and never on the plate, as any unskilled workman
does, for the under side of the bridge never being finished, you
really mar nothing, and sometimes this raising of the cock (or bridge)
becomes a necessity, to have it clear the rim of the balance, which,
if raised, it will clear, and then by bending down the end of the cock
at point where the jewel is, and thus regulate the end shake. I hardly
know how to give directions how to proceed in adjusting hairsprings,
when they are disarranged, but if I could see you, I could explain by
example what I cannot well do in words. To commence, a hairspring,
when there is no power applied to balance from the jewel pin, should
be, when pinned, just as free from any twist or cramping as it would
be if lying flat and free on a smooth piece of glass, before it has
been pinned at either end, and when it is pinned in the watch (at stud
and collet) it should be thus free. To bring it thus requires
demonstration that cannot be made on paper, unless you could make
diagrams, too numerous for this article.
What I have said regarding it, however, gives an idea of how a
hairspring should be pinned. Common sense is demanded here as
elsewhere. To put a watch in beat, too, is a very important item,
which I do by placing sharp pointed tweezers, first on one side of the
arm of balance and then on the other, and so pin my hairspring in the
stud, that it will let off as readily on one side as the other. I had
forgotten to say that every watch should have a little oil on the face
of the pallet stones. I know full well that some workmen will say that
there should be none, but I can tell of scores of watches that have
failed and indeed stopped simply for want of oil on the pallets.
Selecting mainsprings, too, needs much more care than is usually given
to this department, and as a rule even the watch factories fill the
barrel too full, that is, too long springs. Whether I am correct in
this or not, you cannot be too particular in selecting the right
strength, length, and width of mainsprings. Mainsprings should be well
and carefully oiled.
There are many ways of replacing broken teeth in wheels, and the width
of the web and the size of the teeth has much to do with how they are
put in, but I usually dovetail them in, and then with the very tiniest
bit of soft solder fasten them, but in so doing be positive you have
got off all soldering fluid, that it will not rust the pinion into
which it meshes, and be very particular to have it exactly like the
rest of the teeth in same wheel, and don't mar the web of the wheel
more than is possible.
I will now draw this article to a close, well appreciating the fact
that I have only made a superficial attempt to instruct younger men in
the cleaning and repairing of watches, for there is almost an endless
variety of special repairs coming almost unexpectedly to any one, even
if they have been in the business a long time, as I have, and as I
first said, I am learning daily some new phase of the business, and am
surprised that I never had known it before. I have, too, taken perhaps
more space than I ought, regarding tools and bench, yet the older I
grow, the more I can see the importance of this part, that I may be
enabled to do work well and quick. Besides, I have left such repairs
as the chain and fusee, uprighting wheels, repairing cases, adjustment
to position, heat and cold, isochronism, enlarging jewels, or changing
angles of pallet stones, etc., etc., all of which I do as necessity
demands, as well as the care of striking watches, fly backs, etc.,
which, too, I make a specialty of, and of chronometer escapement
watches, which would take more space than I feel disposed to ask you
to give me.--_American Jeweler._
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