El-Jereed, the Country of Dates.--Its hard soil.--Salt Lake. Its vast
extent.--Beautiful Palm-trees.--The Dates, a staple article of Food.--
Some Account of the Date-Palm.--Made of Culture.--Delicious Beverage.--
Tapping the Palm.--Meal formed from the Dates.--Baskets made of the
Branches of the Tree.--Poetry of the Palm.--Its Irrigation.--
Palm-Groves.--Collection of Tribute by the "Bey of the Camp."
El-Jereed, or Belad-el-Jereed, the country of dates, or literally, the
country of the palm branches, is a part of the Sahara, or the hot dry
country lying in the immediate vicinity of the Great Desert. Its
principal features of soil and climate offer nothing different from
other portions of the Sahara, or the Saharan regions of Algeria and
Morocco. The Belad-el-Jereed, therefore, may be properly called the
Tunisian Sahara. Shaw observes generally of Jereed:--"This part of the
country, and indeed the whole tract of land which lies between the
Atlantic and Egypt, is by most of the modern geographers, called
Biledulgerid, a name which they seem to have borrowed from
Bloid-el-Jeridde, of the Arabians, who merely signify the dry country;
though, if we except the Jeridde, a small portion of it which is situate
on this side of Lesser Syrtis, and belongs to the Tunisians, all the
rest of it is known by no other general name than the Sahara or Sahra,
among those Arabs, at least, whom I have conversed with."
Besides the grand natural feature of innumerable lofty and branching
palms, whose dark depending slender leaves, are depicted by the Arabian
poet as hanging gracefully like the dishevelled ringlets of a beautiful
woman in distress, there is the vast salt lake, El-Sibhah, or literally
the "salt plain," and called by some modern geographers the
Sibhah-el-Soudeeat, or Lake of Marks, from having certain marks made of
the trunks of the palm, to assist the caravans in their marches across
its monotonous samelike surface.
This vast lake, or salt plain, was divided by the ancients into three
parts, and denominated respectively, Palus Tritonis, Palus Pallas, and
Palus Libya. The first is derived from the river Triton, which according
to Ptolemy and other ancient geographers, is made to pass through this
lake in its course to the sea, but which is the present river Ghobs,
where it falls into the Mediterranean. The name Pallas is derived from
the tradition of Pallas having accompanied Sesostris in his Asiatic
expeditions with the Lybian women, and she may have been a native of the
Jereed. The lake measures from north-east to south-west about seventy
English miles, with a third of the breadth, but it is not one collection
of water; there being several dry places, like so many islands,
interspersed over its surface, depending however, as to their number and
extent upon the season of the year, and upon the quantity of water in
the particular season.
"At first, on crossing it," says a tourist, "the grass and bushes become
gradually scarcer; then follows a tract of sand, which some way beyond,
becomes in parts covered with a thin layer of salt. This, as you
advance, is thicker and more united; then we find it a compact and
unbroken mass or sheet, which can, however, be penetrated by a sword, or
other sharp instrument, and here it was found to be eleven inches in
depth; and finally in the centre, it became so hard, deep, and
concentrated, as to baffle all attempts at breaking its surface except
with a pickaxe. The horse's shoe, in fact, makes no impression upon its
stone-like surface."
The salt of the lake is considerably weaker than that of the sea, and
not adapted for preserving provisions, though its flavour is very
agreeable; it is not exported, nor made in any way an article of
commerce.
The Jereed, from the existence in it of a few antiquities, such as
pieces of granite and marble, and occasionally a name or a classic
inscription, is proved to have been in the possession of the Romans, and
undoubtedly of the Carthaginians before them, who could have had no
difficulty in holding this flat and exposed country.
The trade and resources of this country consist principally in dates.
The quantity exported to other parts of the Regency, as well as to
foreign countries, where their fine quality is well known, is in round
numbers on an average from three to four thousand quintals per annum.
But in Jereed itself, twenty thousand people live six months of the year
entirely on dates.
"A great number of poles," says Sir Grenville Temple, "are arranged
across the rooms at the height of eight or nine feet from the ground,
and from these are suspended rich and large bunches of dates, which
compose the winter store of the inhabitants; and in one corner of the
room is one or more large earthern jars about six or seven feet high,
also filled with dates pressed close together, and at the bottom of the
jar is a cock, from which is drawn the juice in the form of a thick
luscious syrup. It is scarcely possible to imagine anything more
palatable than this 'sweet of sweets.'"
As we are writing of the country of dates, _par excellence_, I must
needs give some description of the palm, but it will be understood that
the information is Tunisian, or collected in Tunis, and may differ in
some respects from details collected in other parts of North Africa. The
date-palm abounds in the maritime as well as in the inland districts of
North Africa. They are usually propagated from shoots of full grown
trees, which if transplanted and taken care of, will yield in six or
seven years, whilst those raised immediately from the stone require
sixteen years to produce fruit.
The date-palm is male and female, or _dioecious_, and requires
communication, otherwise the fruit is dry and insipid. The age of the
palm, in its greatest vigour, is about thirty years, according to the
Tunisians, after planting, and will continue in vigour for seventy
years, bearing anually fifteen or twenty clusters of dates, each of them
fifteen or twenty pounds in weight; after this long period, they begin
gradually to wither away. But the Saharan Tripolitans will tell you that
the date-palm does not attain its age of full vigour till it reaches a
hundred years, and then will flourish two or or three centuries before
it withers!
The only culture requisite, is to be well watered at the roots once in
four or five days, and to have the lower boughs cut off when they begin
to droop and wither. Much rain, however, injures the dates, and we know
that the countries in which they flourish, are mostly without rain. In
many localities in Africa, date-palms can never be watered in the dry
season; it is nevertheless observable that generally wherever a palm
grows and thrives water may usually be obtained by boring. The sap, or
honey of the palm is a delicious and wholesome beverage when drunk quite
fresh; but if allowed to remain for some hours, it acquires a sharp
taste, something like cider, and becomes very intoxicating. It is called
poetically _leghma_, "tears" of the dates. When a tree is found not to
produce much fruit, the head is cut off, and a bowl or cavity scooped
out of the summit, in which the rising sap is collected, and this is
drunk in its pure state without any other preparation. If the tree be
not exhausted by draining, in five or six months it grows afresh; and,
at the end of two or three years, may again be cut or tapped. The palm
is capable of undergoing this operation five or six times, and it may be
easily known how often a tree has been cut by the number of rings of a
narrow diameter which are seen towards its summit; but, if the sap is
allowed to flow too long, it will perish entirely at the end of a year.
This sap, by distillation, produces an agreeable spirit called _Arâky_
or _Arâk_: from the fruit also the Jews distil a spirit called _bokka_,
or what we should call _toddy_. It is usual for persons of distinction
to entertain their friends upon a marriage, or the birth of a child,
with this pure sap, and a tree is usually tapped for the purpose. It
would appear that tapping the palm was known to the ancients, for a
cornelian _intaglio_ of Roman antiquity, has been found in the Jereed,
representing a tree in this state, and the jars in which the juice was
placed.
Dates are likewise dried in the sun, and reduced into a kind of meal,
which will keep for any length of time, and which thus becomes a most
valuable resource for travellers crossing the deserts, who frequently
make it their only food, moistening a handful of it with a little water.
Certain preparations are made of the male plant, to which medicinal
virtues are attributed; the younger leaves, eaten with salt, vinegar,
and oil, make an excellent salad. The heart of the tree, which lies at
top between the fruit branches, and weighs from ten to twenty pounds, is
eaten only on grand occasions, as those already mentioned, and possesses
a delicious flavour between that of a banana and a pine-apple.
The palm, besides these valuable uses to which it is applied,
superseding or supplying the place of all other vegetables to the tribes
of the Jereed, is, nevertheless, still useful for a great variety of
other purposes. The most beautiful baskets, and a hundred other
nick-nackery of the wickery sort are made of its branches; ropes are
made and vestments wove from the long fibres, and its wood, also, when
hardened by age, is used for building. Indeed, we may say, it is the all
and everything of the Jereed, and, as it is said of the camel and the
desert, _the palm is made for the Jereed, and the Jereed is made for the
palm_.
The Mussulmen make out a complete case of piety and superstition in the
palm, and pretend that _they are made for the palm, and the palm is made
for them_, alleging that, as soon as the Turks conquered Constantinople,
the palm raised its graceful flowing head over the domes of the former
infidel city, whilst when the Moors evacuated Spain, the palm pined
away, and died. "God," adds the pious Mussulman, "has given us the palm;
amongst the Christians, it will not grow!" But the poetry of the palm is
an inseparable appendage in the North African landscape, and even town
scenery. The Moor and the Arab, whose minds are naturally imbued with
the great images of nature, so glowingly represented also in the sacred
leaves of the Koran, cannot imagine a mosque or the dome-roof of a
hermitage, without the dark leaf of the palm overshadowing it; but the
serenest, loveliest object on the face of the landscape is _the lonely
palm_, either thrown by chance on the brow of some savage hill or
planted by design to adorn some sacred spot of mother-earth.
I must still give some other information which I have omitted respecting
this extraordinary tree. And, after this, I further refer the reader to
a Tour in the Jereed of which some details are given in succeeding
pages. A palm-grove is really a beautiful object, and requires scarcely
less attention than a vineyard. The trees are generally planted in a
_quincunx_, or at times without any regular order; but at distances from
each other of four or five yards. The situation selected is mostly on
the banks of some stream or rivulet, running from the neighbouring
hills, and the more abundant the supply of water, the healthier the
plants and the finer the fruit. For this tree, which loves a warm
climate, and a sandy soil, is yet wonderfully improved by frequent
irrigation, and, singularly, the _quality_ of the water appears of
little consequence, being salt or sweet, or impregnated with nitre, as
in the Jereed.
Irrigation is performed in the spring, and through the whole summer. The
water is drawn by small channels from the stream to each individual
tree, around the stalk and root of which a little basin is made and
fenced round with clay, so that the water, when received, is detained
there until it soaks into the earth. (All irrigation is, indeed,
effected in this way.) As to the abundance of the plantations, the fruit
of one plantation alone producing fifteen hundred camels' loads of
dates, or four thousand five hundred quintals, three quintals to the
load, is not unfrequently sold for one thousand dollars. Besides the
Jereed, Tafilett, in Morocco, is a great date-country. Mr. Jackson says,
"We found the country covered with most magnificent plantations, and
extensive forests of the lofty date, exhibiting the most elegant and
picturesque appearance that nature on a plain surface can present to the
admiring eye. In these forests, there is no underwood, so that a
horseman may gallop through them without impediment."
Our readers will see, when they come to the Tour, that this description
of the palm-groves agrees entirely with that of Mr. Reade and Captain
Balfour. I have already mentioned that the palm is male and female, or,
as botanists say, _dioecious_; the Moors, however, pretend that the palm
in this respect is just like the human being. The _female_ palm alone
produces fruit and is cultivated, but the presence or vicinity of the
_male_ is required, and in many oriental countries there is a law that
those who own a palm-wood must have a certain number of _male_ plants in
proportion. In Barbary they seem to trust to chance, relying on the male
plants which grow wild in the Desert. They hang and shake them over the
female plants, usually in February or March. Koempfe says, that the male
flowers, if plucked when ripe, and cautiously dried, will even, in this
state, perform their office, though kept to the following year.
The Jereed is a very important portion of the Tunisian territory,
Government deriving a large revenue from its inhabitants. It is visited
every year by the "Bey of the Camp," who administers affairs in this
country as a sovereign; and who, indeed, is heir-apparent to the
Tunisian throne. Immediately on the decease of the reigning Bey, the
"Bey of the Camp" occupies the hereditary beylick, and nominates his
successor to the camp and the throne, usually the eldest of the other
members of the royal family, the beylick not being transmitted from
father to son, only on the principle of age. At least, this has been the
general rule of succession for many years.
The duties of the "Bey of the Camp" is to visit with a "flying-camp,"
for the purpose of collecting tribute, the two circuits or divisions of
the Regency.
I now introduce to the reader the narrative of a Tour to the Jereed,
extracted from the notebooks of the tourists, together with various
observations of my own interspersed, and some additional account of
Toser, Nefta, and Ghafsa.