Description of the towns and cities of the Interior, and those of the
Kingdom of Fez.--Seisouan.--Wazen.--Zawiat.--Muley Dris.--Sofru.--
Dubdu.--Taza.--Oushdah.--Agla.--Nakbila.--Meshra.--Khaluf.--The Places
distinguished in. Morocco, including Sous, Draka, and Tafilett.--Tefza.
--Pitideb.--Ghuer.--Tyijet.--Bulawan.--Soubeit--Meramer.--El-Medina.--
Tagodast.--Dimenet.--Aghmat.--Fronga.--Tedmest.--Tekonlet.--Tesegdelt.--
Tagawost.--Tedsi Beneali.--Beni Sabih.--Tatta and Akka.--Mesah or
Assah.--Talent.--Shtouka.--General observations on the statistics of
population.--The Maroquine Sahara.
We have briefly to notice the remaining towns and cities of the
interior, with some other remarkable places.
First, these distinguished and well ascertained places in the kingdom of
Fez.
Seisouan, or Sousan, is the capital of the Rif province, situate also on
the borders of the province of the Habat, and by the sources of a little
river which runs into the Mediterranean, near Cape Mazari. The town is
small, but full of artizans and merchants. The country around is
fertile, being well irrigated with streams. Sousan is the most
beautifully picturesque of all the Atlas range.
Sofou, or Sofron, is a fine walled city, southeast of Fez, situate upon
the river Guizo; in a vast and well-watered plain near, are rich mines
of fossil salt.
Wazen, or Wazein, in the province of Azgar, and the region of the Gharb,
is a small city without Walls, celebrated for being the residence of
the High Priest, or Grand Marabout of the Empire. This title is
hereditary, and is now (or up to lately) possessed by the famous
Sidi-el-Haj-el-Araby-Ben-Ali, who, in his district, lives in a state of
nearly absolute independence, besides exercising great influence over
public affairs. This saint, or priest, has, however, a rival at Tedda.
The two popes together pretend to decide the fate of the Empire. The
districts where these Grand Marabouts reside, are without governors,
and the inhabitants pay no tribute into the imperial coffers, they are
ruled by their two priests under a species of theocracy. The Emperor
never attempts or dares to contest their privileges. Occasionally they
appear abroad, exciting the people, and declaiming against the vices of
the times. His Moorish Majesty then feels himself ill at ease, until
they retire to their sanctuaries, and employs all his arts to effect
the object, protesting that he will be wholly guided by their councils
in the future administration of the Empire. With this humiliation of
the Shereefs, they are satisfied, and kennel themselves into their
sanctum-sanctorums.
Zawiat-Muley-Driss, which means, retirement of our master, Lord Edris
(Enoch) and sometimes called Muley Edris, is a far famed city of the
province of Fez, and placed at the foot of the lofty mountains of
Terhoun, about twenty-eight miles from Fez, north-west, amidst a most
beautiful country, producing all the necessaries and luxuries of human
life. The site anciently called Tuilet, was perhaps also the Volubilis
of the ancients. Here is a sanctuary dedicated to the memory of Edris,
progenitor and founder of the dynasty of Edrisiti.
The population, given by Gräberg, is nine thousand, but this is
evidently exaggerated. Not far off, towards the west, are some
magnificent ruins of an ancient city, called Kesar Farâoun, or "Castle
of Pharoah."
Dubdu, called also Doubouton, is an ancient, large city, of the district
of Shaous, and once the residence of an independent prince, but now
fallen into decay on account of the sterility of its site, which is upon
the sides of a barren mountain. Dubdu is three days' journey southeast
of Fez, and one day from Taza, in the region of the Mulweeah. Taza is
the capital of the well-watered district of Haiaina, and one of the
finest cities in Morocco, in a most romantic situation, placed on a rock
which is shaped like an island, and in presence of the lofty mountains
of Zibel Medghara, to the south-west. Perhaps it is the Babba of the
ancients; a river runs round the town. The houses and streets are
spacious, and there is a large mosque. The air is pure, and provisions
are excellent. The population is estimated at ten or twelve thousand,
who are hospitable, and carry on a good deal of commerce with Tlemsen
and Fez. Taza is two days from Fez, and four from Oushda.
Oushda is the well-known frontier town, on the north-east, which
acquired some celebrity during the late war. It is enclosed by the walls
of its gardens, and is protected by a large fortress. The place contains
a population of from six hundred to one thousand Moors and Arabs. There
is a mosque, as well as three chapels, dedicated to Santous. The houses,
built of clay, are low and of a wretched appearance; the streets are
winding, and covered with flints. The fortress, where the Kaed resides,
is guarded in ordinary times by a dozen soldiers; but, were this force
increased, it could not be defended, in consequence of its dilapidated
condition. A spring of excellent water, at a little distance from
Oushda, keeps up the whole year round freshness and verdure in the
gardens, by means of irrigation. Cattle hereabouts is of fine quality.
Oushda is a species of oasis of the Desert of Angad, and the aridity of
the surrounding country makes these gardens appear delicious, melons,
olives, and figs being produced in abundance.
The distance between Tlemsen and Oushda is sixteen leagues, or about
sixteen hours' march for troops; Oushda is also four or five days from
Oran, and six days from Fez. The Desert commences beyond the Mulweeah,
at more than forty leagues from Tlemsen. Like the Algerian Angad, which
extends to the south of Tlemsen, it is of frightful sterility,
particularly in summer. In this season, one may march for six or eight
hours without finding any water. It is impossible to carry on military
operations in such a country during summer. On this account, Marshal
Bugeaud soon excavated Oushda and returned to the Tlemsen territory.
Aghla is a town, or rather large village, of the district of Fez, where
the late Muley Suleiman occasionally resided. It is situated along the
river Wad Vergha, in a spacious and well-cultivated district. A great
market of cattle, wool, and bees'-wax, is held in the neighbourhood. The
country abounds in lions; but, it is pretended, of such a cowardly race,
that a child can frighten them away. Hence the proverb addressed to a
pusillanimous individual, "You are as brave as the lions of Aghla, whose
tails the calves eat." The Arabs certainly do occasionally run after
lions with sticks, or throw stones at them, as we are accustomed to
throw stones at dogs.
Nakhila, _i.e._, "little palm," is a little town of the province of
Temsna, placed in the river Gueer; very ancient, and formerly rich and
thickly populated. A great mart, or souk, is annually held at this
place. It is the site of the ancient Occath.
Meshru Khaluf, _i.e._, "ford, or watering-place of the wild-boar," in
the district of the Beni-Miskeen, is a populated village, and situated
on the right bank of the Ovad Omm-Erbergh, lying on the route of many of
the chief cities. Here is the ford of Meshra Khaluf, forty-five feet
wide, from which the village derives its name.
On the map will be seen many places called Souk. The interior tribes
resort thither to purchase and exchange commodities. The market-places
form groups of villages. It is not a part of my plan to give any
particular description of them.
Second, those places distinguished in the kingdom of Morocco, including
Sous, Draha, and Tafilett.
Tefza, a Berber name, which, according to some, signifies "sand," and to
others, "a bundle of straw," is the capital of the province of Todla,
built by the aborigines on the slope of the Atlas, who surrounded it
with a high wall of sandstone (called, also, Tefza.) At two miles east
of this is the smaller town of Efza, which is a species of suburb,
divided from Tefza by the river Derna. The latter place is inhabited
certainly by Berbers, whose women are famous for their woollen works and
weaving. Tefza is also celebrated for its native black and white woollen
manufactures. The population of the two places is stated at upwards of
10,000, including 2,000 Jews.
Pitideb, or Sitideb, is another fine town in the neighbourhood, built by
the Amazirghs on the top of a high mountain. The inhabitants are
esteemed the most civilized of their nation, and governed by their own
elders and chiefs, they live in a state of almost republican
independence. Some good native manufactures are produced, and a large
commerce with strangers is carried on. The women are reputed as being
extremely fair and fascinating.
Ghuer, or Gheu, (War, _i.e._, "difficult?") is a citadel, or rather a
strong, massive rock, and the most inaccessible of all in Morocco,
forming a portion of the mountains of Jedla, near the sources of the Wad
Omm-Erbegh. This rocky fort is the residence of the supreme Amrgar, or
chief of the Amazirghs, who rendered himself renowned through the empire
by fighting a pitch-battle with the Imperial troops in 1819. Such chiefs
and tribes occasion the weakness of the interior; for, whenever the
Sultan has been embroiled with European Powers, these aboriginal
Amazirghs invariably seized the opportunity of avenging their wrongs and
ancient grudges. The Shereefs always compound with them, if they can,
these primitive tribes being so many centres of an _imperium imperio_,
or of revolt and disaffection.
Tijijet in the province of Dukkalah, situate on the left bank of the
river Omm-Erbegh, along the route from Fez to Morocco, is a small town,
but was formerly of considerable importance.
A famous market for grain is held here, which is attended by the tribe
of the Atlas: the country abounds in grain and cattle of the finest
breed.
Bulawan or Bou-el-Awan, "father of commodious ways or journeys," is a
small town of 300 houses, with an old castle, formerly a place of
consequence; and lying on an arm of the river Omm-Erbegh _en route_ from
Morocco to Salee and Mequinez and commanding the passage of the river.
It is 80 miles from Morocco, and 110 from Salee. On the opposite side of
the river, is the village of Taboulaunt, peopled mostly with Jews and
ferrymen.
Soubeit is a very ancient city on the left bank of the Omm-Erbegh,
surrounded with walls, and situate twenty miles from El-Medina in a
mountainous region abounding with hares; it is inhabited by a tribe of
the same name, or probably Sbeita, which is also the name of a tribe
south of Tangier.
Meramer is a city built by the Goths on a fertile plain, near Mount
Beni-Megher, about fourteen miles east of Saffee, in the province of
Dukkala, and carrying on a great commerce in oil and grain.
El-Medina is a large walled populous city of merchants and artizans, and
capital of the district of Haskowra; the men are seditious, turbulent
and inhospitable; the women are reputed to be fair and pretty, but
disposed, when opportunity offers, to confer their favours on strangers.
There is another place four miles distant of nearly the same name.
Tagodast is another equally large and rich city of the province of
Haskowra crowning the heights of a lofty mountain surrounded by four
other mountains, but near a plain of six miles in extent, covered with
rich vegetation producing an immense quantity of Argan oil, and the
finest fruits.
This place contains about 7,000 inhabitants, who are a noble and
hospitable race. Besides, Argan oil, Tagodast is celebrated for its red
grapes, which are said to be as large as hen's eggs--the honey of
Tagodast is the finest in Africa. The inhabitants trade mostly with the
south.
Dimenet or Demnet is a considerable town, almost entirely populated by
the Shelouhs and Caraaite Jews; it is situate upon the slopes of a
mountain of the same name, or Adimmei, in the district of Damnat,
fifteen miles distant from Wad Tescout, which falls into the Tensift.
The inhabitants are reputed to be of a bad and malignant character, but,
nevertheless, learned in Mussulman theology, and fond of disputing with
foreigners. Orthodoxy and morality are frequently enemies of one
another, whilst good-hearted and honest people are often hetherodox in
their opinions.
Aghmat, formerly a great and flourishing city and capital of the
province of Rhamna, built by the Berbers, and well fortified--is now
fallen into decay, and consists only of a miserable village inhabited by
some sixty families, among which are a few Jews--Aghmat lies at the foot
of Mount Atlas, on the road which conducts to Tafilett, near a river of
the same name, and in the midst of a fine country abounding in orchards
and vine-yards; Aghmat was the first capital of the Marabout dynasty.
Fronga is a town densely populated almost entirely by Shelouhs and Jews,
lying about fifteen miles from the Atlas range upon an immense plain
which produces the finest grain in Morocco.
Tednest, the ancient capital of the province of Shedmah, and built by
the Berbers, is deliciously placed upon a paridisical plain, and was
once the residence of the Shereefs. It contains a population of four
thousand souls, one thousand eight hundred being Jews occupied with
commerce, whilst the rest cultivate the land. This is a division of
labour amongst Mahometans and Israelites not unfrequent in North Africa.
But, as in Europe, the Jew is the trader, not the husbandman.
Tekoulet is a small and pretty town, rising a short distance from the
sea, by the mouth of the stream Dwira, in the province of Hhaha. The
water is reckoned the best in the province, and the people are honest
and friendly; the Jews inhabit one hundred houses.
Tesegdelt, is another city of the province of Hhaha, very large and
rich, perched high upon a mountain, and that fortified by nature. The
principal mosque is one of the finest in the empire.
Tagawost is a city, perhaps the most ancient, and indeed the largest of
the province of Sous. It is distant ten miles from the great river Sous,
and fifty from the Atlas. The suburbs are surrounded with huge blocks of
stone. Togawost contains a number of shops and manufactories of good
workmen, who are divided into three distinct classes of people, all
engaged in continual hostilities with one another. The men are, however,
honest and laborious, while the women are pretty and coquettish. People
believe St. Augustine, whom the Mahometans have dubbed a Marabout, was
born in this city. Their trade is with the Sahara and Timbuctoo.
Fedsi is another considerable city, anciently the capital of Sous,
reclining upon a large arm of the river Sous, amidst a fruitful soil,
and contains about fourteen thousand inhabitants, who are governed by
republican institutions. It is twenty miles E.N.E. of Taroudant.
Beneali is a town placed near to the source of the river Draha, in the
Atlas. It is the residence of the chief of the Berbers of Hadrar, on the
southern Atlas.
Beni-Sabih, Moussabal, or Draha, is the capital of the province of
Draha, and a small place, but populated and commercial. On the river of
the same name, was the Draha of ancient geography.
Tatta and Akka, are two towns or villages of the province of Draha,
situate on the southern confines of Morocco, and points of rendezvous
for the caravans in their route over the Great Desert.
Tatta is four days direct east from Akka, and placed in 28° 3' lat. and
90° 20' long. west of Paris. Akka consists of two hundred houses,
inhabited by Mussulmen, and fifty by Jews. The environs are highly
cultivated. Akka is two days east of Wadnoun, situate on a plain at the
foot of Gibel-Tizintit, and is placed in 28° 3' lat. and 10° 51' long.
west of Paris.
Messah, or Assah. Messa is, according to Gräberg, a walled city, built
by the Berbers, not far from the river Sous, and divided like nearly all
the cities of Sous, into three parts, or quarters, each inhabited by
respective classes of Shelouhs, Moors, and Jews. Cities are also divided
in this manner in the provinces of Guzzala and Draha. The sea on the
coast of Sous throws up a very fine quantity of amber. Male whales are
occasionally visitors here. The population is three thousand, but Mr.
Davidson's account differs materially. The town is named Assah, and
distant about two miles from the sea, there being a few scattered houses
on each side of the river, to within half a mile of the sea. The place
is of no importance, famed only for having near it a market on Tuesday,
to which many people resort. The population may be one hundred. Assah is
also the name of the district though which the Sous river flows. The
Bas-el-wad (or head of the river) is very properly the name of the upper
part of the river; when passing through Taroudant it takes the name of
Sous. Fifteen miles from Assah is the town of Aghoulon, containing about
six hundred people.
Talent, or Tilin, the difference only is the adding of the Berber
termination. The other consonants are the same, perhaps, as Mr. Davidson
incidentally mentions. It is a strong city, and capital of the province
of Sous-el-Aksa, or the extreme part of Sous. This province is sometimes
called Tesset, or Tissert. A portion of it is also denominated
Blad-Sidi-Hasham, and forms a free and quasi-independant state, founded
in 1810 by the Emir Hasham, son of the Shereef Ahmed Ben Mousa. This
prince was the bug-bear of Captain Riley. The district contains upwards
of twenty-five thousand Shelouhs and industrious Arabs. Talent is the
residence of the prince, and is situate on the declivity of a hill, not
far from the river Wad-el-Mesah, or Messa, and a mile from Ilekh, or
Ilirgh, a populous village, where there is a famous sanctuary, resorted
to by the Mahometans of the surrounding regions, of the name of Sidi
Hamed-ou-Mousa, (probably Ben Mousa). The singularity of this sacred
village is, that Jews constitute the majority of the population. But
they seem absolutely necessary to the very existence of the Mussulmen of
North Africa, who cannot live without them, or make profitable exchange
of the products of the soil, or of native industry, for European
articles of use and luxury.
Shtouka, or Stuka, is, according to some, a large town or village; or,
as stated by Davidson, a _district_. The fact is, many African districts
are called by the name of a principal town or village in them, and _vice
versâ_. This place stands on the banks of the Wad-el-Mesah, and is
inhabited by some fifteen hundred Shelouhs, who are governed by a
Sheikh, nearly independent of Morocco.
On Talent and Shtouka, Mr. Davidson remarks. "There is no town called
Stuka; it is a district; none that I can find called Talent; there is
Tilin. The Mesah flows through Stuka, in which district are twenty
settlements, or rather towns, some of which are large. They are known in
general by the names of the Sheikhs who inhabit them. I stopped at
Sheikh Hamed's. Tilin was distant from this spot a day's journey in the
mountains towards the source of the river. If by Talent, Tissert is
meant, Oferen (a town) is distant six miles."
On the province of Sous generally, Don J.A. Conde has this note:--
"In this region (Sous) near the sea, is the temple erected in honour of
the prophet Jonas; it was there he was cast out of the belly of the
whale." This temple, says Assed Ifriki, is made of the bones of whales
which perish on this coast. A little further on, he alludes to the
breaking of horses, and being skilful in bodily exercises, for the Moors
and Numidians have always been renowned in that respect.
In the lesser and more remote towns, I have followed generally the
enumeration of Count Gräberg, but there are many other places on the
maps, with varieties of names or differences of position. Our geography
of the interior of Morocco, especially in the South, is still very
obscure, and I have only selected those towns and places of whose
present existence there is no question. My object, in the above
enumeration, has been simply to give the reader a proximate estimate of
the population and resources of this country. Of the strength and number
of the tribes of the interior, we know scarcely anything. The names of
the towns and villages of the South, so frequently beginning and ending
with T., sufficiently indicate the preponderance of the Berber
population, under the names of Shelouh or Amazirgh, whilst the great
error of writers has been to represent the Arabs as more numerous than
this aboriginal population.
Monsieur E. Renou, in his geographical description of the Empire of
Morocco (Vol. VIII. of the "Exploration Scientifique," &c.) foolishly
observes that there is no way of arriving at correct statistics of this
empire, except by comparing it with Algeria; and then remarks, which is
true enough, "Malheureusement, la population de l'Algérie n'est pas
encore bien connue." When, however, he asserts that the numbers of
population given by Jackson and Gräberg are gross, and almost
unpardonable exaggerations, given at hazard, I am obliged to agree with
him from the personal experience I had in Morocco, and these Barbary
countries generally.
Jackson makes the whole of the population to amount to almost fifteen
millions, or nearly two thirds more than it probably amounts to. Gräberg
estimates it at eight millions and a half. But how, or why, or
wherefore, such estimates are made is not so easy to determine. Certain
it is, that the whole number of cities which I have enumerated, scarcely
represent one million of inhabitants. But for those who like to see
something more definite in statistics, however exaggerated may be the
estimate, I shall give the more moderate calculations of Gräberg, those
of Jackson being beyond all rhyme or reason. Gräberg thus classifies and
estimates the population.
Amazirghs, Berbers, and Touaricks 2,300,000
Amazirghs, Shelouhs and Arabs 1,450,000
Arabs, mixed Moors, &c. 3,550,000
Arabs pure, Bedouins, &c. 740,000
Israelites, Rabbinists, and Caraites 339,500
Negroes, Fullans, and Mandingoes 120,000
Europeans and Christians 300
Renegades 200
----------
Total 8,500,000
If two millions are deducted from this amount, perhaps the reader will
have something like a probable estimate of the population of Morocco. It
is hardly correct to classify Moors as mixed Arabs, many of them being
simply descendants of the aboriginal Amazirghs. I am quite sure there
are no Touaricks in the Empire of Morocco.
Of the Maroquine Sahara, I have only space to mention the interesting
cluster of oases of Figheegh, or Figuiq. Shaw mentions them as "a knot
of villagers," noted for their plantations of palm-trees, supplying the
western province of Algeria with dates. We have now more ample
information of Figheegh, finding this Saharan district to consist of an
agglomeration of twelve villages, the more considerable of which are
Maiz, counting eight hundred houses, El-Wadghir five hundred, and Zenega
twelve hundred. The others vary from one or two hundred houses. The
villages are more or less connected together, never farther apart than a
quarter of a league, and placed on the descent of Wal-el-Khalouf ("river
of the wild boar") whence water is procured for the gardens, containing
varieties of fruit-trees and abundance of date-palms, all hedged round
with prickly-pears. Madder-root and tobacco are also cultivated, besides
barley sufficient for consumption. The wheat is brought from the Teli.
The Wad-el-Khalouf is dry, except in winter, but its bed is bored with
inexhaustible wells, whose waters are distributed among the gardens by
means of a _clepsydra_, or a vessel which drops so much water in an
hour. The ancients measured time by the dropping of water, like the
falling of sand in the hour-glass.
Some of the houses in these villages have two stories, and are well
built; each place has its mosque, its school, its kady, and its sheikh,
and the whole agglomeration of oases is governed by a Sheikh Kebir,
appointed by the Sultan of Morocco. These Saharan villages are eternally
in strife with one another, and sometimes take up arms. On this account,
they are surrounded by crenated walls, defended by towers solidly built.
The immediate cause of discord here is water, that precious element of
all life in the desert. But the imaginations of the people are not
satisfied with this simple reason, and they are right, for the cause
lies deeply in the human heart. They say, however, their ancestors were
cursed by a Marabout, to punish them for their laxity in religion, and
this was his anathema, "God make you, until the day of judgment, like
wool-comber's cards, the one gnawing the other!"
Their wars, in fact, are most cruel, for they destroy the noble and
fruitful palms, which, by a tacit convention, are spared in other parts
of the Sahara when these quarrels proceed to bloodshed. They have,
besides, great tact in mining, and their reputation as miners has been a
long time established. But, happily, they are addicted to commerce and
various branches of industry, as well as war, having commercial
relations with Fez, Tafilett and Touat, and the people are, therefore,
generally prosperous.