ADDITIONAL POINTS

(A). The binding may be made stronger by “whip-stitching” the

fly-leaves after they are pasted in. For this purpose, take an ordinary

sewing needle (about No. 2) and linen thread (No. 35). Begin at the

right and, with “over-and-over” stitches about ¼ of an inch apart, sew

through the outside signature and the fly-leaves. A knot should be made

at each end to fasten the threads. Turn the book over and repeat the

operation on the opposite side.

(B). If heavy paper is used for the fly-leaves, the outside leaf should

be torn or cut off carefully before putting on the case. Leave just a

narrow margin at the fold to hold the other half from coming out. This

being done, there is but one thickness with which to line the cover,

but two free leaves are left as before.

(C). Head-bands may be used on a book sewed on a frame. Cut pieces to

fit across the back of the book and paste one at each end after the

“super” has been pasted on.

(D). Any book is made more attractive by using colored “end papers”

or fly-leaves. These may be of the same material as the cover or of

contrasting material. A small surface pattern worked out in crayon or

water color for this purpose makes an excellent problem in applied

design and at the same time adds much to the appearance of the book.

When using any paper for fly-leaves which has a right and wrong side,

the sheets should be folded wrong side out. Note that only two folios

of colored paper should be used while the other two are white--that is

at each end of the “book” there will be one white folio with a colored

one inside it. When stacking the sheets to apply the paste, place a

colored sheet at the bottom, then a white sheet, then a colored sheet,

and a white sheet on top. When pasting these to the book, this brings

a white sheet first and a colored sheet inside, so that when pasted to

the “case” one-half forms its lining and the other half is free.

Bookbinding for beginners · 第 68 / 77 题