TIME: 10 hours.
MATERIALS: Newsboard,[5] vellum, cover paper, white paper, tape,
sewing linen, and “super.”
There are several ways of sewing a book and even more ways of binding
it after it is sewed. The first method here given is the simplest,
and is such as is feasible in a fifth or sixth grade without a sewing
frame, a press, or other apparatus than the simple tools required in
the previous problems.
First determine the shape and size of the book. It is better at first
not to attempt a book which is very thick, seven to twelve signatures
being sufficient for a beginning. A “signature” is the name applied to
a folded sheet, several of which go to make up the inside of a book. If
the sheet is folded once it is called a “folio”; if twice, a “quarto”;
if three times, an “octavo.” (See Plate XLVI.) These signatures, when
sewed together, form what is technically known as “the book,” and the
covers and back “the case.”
[5] A book-cover may be made of heavier newsboard than the articles
previously described, although in elementary grades it will probably be
more convenient to use one weight only. Number 30 is commonly used for
books of ordinary size (say 7½ × 5¼ inches), while for larger books (10
× 7 inches) a still heavier board is used.
With a piece of cheap paper experiment a little, folding it one or
more times and if necessary trimming the edges to change size or
proportions. When the size is determined, cut a sufficient number of
sheets, fold, and “stack” (pile) them for sewing. If the paper provided
is too small to be used for a “quarto,” place one “folio” inside
another which will give two thicknesses of paper at each fold and will
have the same effect as a “quarto.” If desired, two or three sheets
of paper may be placed together before folding so that there will be
several thicknesses at the back.
[Illustration: PLATE XLVI. Diagram to show methods of folding sheets of
paper.]
These signatures are to be sewed over three pieces of tape, one to
be at the middle of the fold, one from 1 to 1½ inches from each end,
according to the size of the pages. On the back of the first signature
mark carefully the position of the edges of each piece of tape, and
additional points ½ an inch from each end. The latter points show the
location of the “kettle stitches.”
Replace this signature on the others and mark across the backs of all,
locating similar points on other signatures with as much accuracy as
possible. (See Plate XLVII.) The major folds should then be “jogged up”
evenly at the back, and the minor folds at the “head” or top.
At each point on each signature make a hole for sewing by opening the
signatures and piercing through with a needle from the back. Replace
the signatures in the same order as before. Cut three pieces of tape
about three inches long. Place the first signature on the deck or table
with the fold of the back toward the operator. The left hand should be
placed inside the signature to receive and return the threaded needle
which is pushed through from the outside by the right hand. (See Plate
XLVIII.) Pass the thread in through the first hole (leaving an end
long enough for tying), out through the second hole, over the tape, in
through the third hole, out through the fourth hole, over the second
tape, in through the fifth hole, out through the sixth hole, over the
third tape, in through the seventh hole, and out through the eighth or
last hole of the signature.
[Illustration: PLATE XLVII. Marking the signatures before stitching.]
Close this signature and place the second signature on top of the
first; then pass the thread in through the eighth hole of the second
signature, and out through the seventh hole, over the tape, in through
the sixth hole and so on until the thread comes out through the first
hole. Tie the thread to the loose short end in a square or hard knot.
Place the third signature on top of the second and proceed as before.
On reaching the end of the third signature, pass the needle under the
stitch connecting the first and second signatures and through the
loop formed by the thread. (See Plate XLIX.) Pull tightly to form the
“kettle stitch” which should be made at the end of every signature
hereafter. In the same manner any number of signatures may thus be
sewed to form a book.
[Illustration: PLATE XLVIII. Sewing a book over tapes.]
For fly-leaves, prepare four single sheets folded once, to be of the
same size as the leaves of the book. Place these folded sheets one on
top of another leaving about ⅛ of an inch of the folded edge of each
exposed, the upper sheet being protected by a piece of waste paper. Rub
paste over the exposed surface of all four at the same time. (See Plate
L.) Remove the upper sheet and with its pasted edge downward place it
upon the front signature of the book, its folded edge being flush with
the folded edges of the sewed part, and the tapes thrown back out of
the way. After rubbing this sheet well down, open it and place the
second sheet inside the first, having its pasted edge downward also.
See that the folds exactly fit, and rub down the second sheet. Turn the
book over and repeat the process on the opposite side. (See page 93-D).
Before proceeding farther the “book” should be dried under weight.
[Illustration: PLATE XLIX. The needle is in position to form the
“kettle stitch.”]
[Illustration: PLATE L. Applying paste to the folds of the fly-leaves.]
Lay the “book” flat on the desk and with a wooden mallet hammer the
folds at the back which will make the signatures lie close together.
Turn the “book” over and repeat the process. A few strokes are
sufficient. Cover the back with paste (or, if available, hot glue; do
not attempt cold), and rub it well in with the fingers that it may hold
the signatures together and prevent their spreading. Use only a thin,
even coat of paste; pull the tapes tightly across the back, and paste
their ends to the outside leaves.
[Illustration: PLATE LI. Dimensioned sketches of the parts of a book.]
Cut a strip of “super” a little shorter than the length of the back,
and wide enough to extend on to the fly-leaves about 1 inch. Place this
over the freshly pasted back and rub it well on. Paste the part of the
“super” which extends onto each side to the outside leaves over the
tapes. When perfectly dry cut off about two-thirds of the width of each
outside leaf, leaving a stub onto which the super and tapes are already
pasted. The ends of these stubs should be slanted by cutting from the
binding toward the front of the book.
The “case,” which should be a trifle longer than the “book,” should
be constructed similarly to the portfolio but without tape or lining
paper, and with but one strip of vellum (the long one) on the back.
Plan to have the covers extend beyond the front and ends of the book
about ⅛ of an inch; but as the newsboard foundations should set forward
from the binding about ¼ of an inch. Their width should be a trifle
less than the width of the pages. Make dimensioned sketches of all
pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate LI.)
Place the pieces of newsboard on each side of the “book” in the exact
position they are intended to occupy. Take a narrow strip of paper and
attach its ends to the outside of the pieces of newsboard (see Plate
LII) so that when the latter are removed from the “book” they will be
attached to each other the correct distance apart; that is the space
between them will be at least ½ an inch greater than the thickness of
the book. Place them on the vellum and trace along the inner edge of
each after ascertaining that the distance between them is the same at
both ends. Remove the paper which connects the covers and paste them to
the vellum in the position already marked out, but do not yet turn over
the ends of vellum. Cut a strip of heavy paper of just the width of
the back of the “book” and paste in the middle of the piece of vellum,
after which the ends of vellum should be turned over and pasted down.
Complete the “case” by pasting on the cover paper after which it should
be pressed and dried.
[Illustration: PLATE LII. Determining the distance between covers.]
When this is done place the “book” as far back in the “case” as it
is possible to do and be certain that the edges of the covers are in
alignment. Make tiny pencil marks at the front edge of the leaves
to guide the placing of the “book” after the paste is spread. When
necessary lines or points have been located remove the “book” from the
“case” and prepare to paste.
Under the first whole leaf place a piece of newspaper considerably
larger than the “book” to protect the pages. Spread paste over the
surface of this leaf, first under the stub which should then be pushed
down with the brush to hold it securely to the outside leaf; then
cover the outside of the stub with paste. Place the “book” in the
“case” following the guide lines previously made, and press the covers
together with the hands. Lay the book on the desk or table with the
pasted half down. (See Plate LIII.) Open at the pasted leaf a very
little way and carefully rub the lining onto the cover, smoothing
out any wrinkles which may appear. Turn the book over and repeat the
process with the other cover. Do not open wide until the book has been
pressed.
[Illustration: PLATE LIII. Pasting “book” inside the “cover.”]
This should be done very effectually and for this purpose two boards
clamped together with handscrews make a better press than a weight. If
two thin pieces of tin, zinc, or blotting-paper are placed between the
“case” and the “book” while in press it will prevent the moisture from
being absorbed by the leaves, causing them to wrinkle.