TRANSACTIONS AT NORFOLK ISLAND
April 1788 to October 1788
-Regular employment of the convicts.--Meet with
an unlucky accident.--Thefts detected.--The robbers
punished.--Pestered with rats.--Method of destroying them.--Live
stock on the settlement.--Trees discovered which afford food for
hogs.--Some of the settlers poisoned.--Cured with sweet oil.--A
convict punished for using seditious language.--Birds on the
island. Description of Arthur's Vale.--His Majesty's birth-day
kept.--Flourishing state of the gardens.--Arrival of the
Supply.--Four persons drowned.--Provisions and stores
received.--Queries from Governor Phillip, and the
answers.--Ball-Bay described.--The landing-place
cleared.--Arrival of the Golden Grove transport.--Marines and
convicts brought in the Golden Grove.--Provisions and
stores.-
The settlement being now brought to some degree of order, I
distributed the people into regular working parties, in order to
facilitate the different operations which I was anxious to get
forward as fast possible. Five men were sent to clear away ground
on the north-east side of Mount George; two were employed in
clearing a road from the ground where we had pitched the tents,
to the fresh-water rivulet; two sawyers were sawing timber to
build me a house; two men were employed in building huts; and I
sent Mr. Altree, (the surgeon's assistant) to the valley which
has already been mentioned, in order to make a commencement
there, but as he had only a boy to assist him, his progress was
of course very flow.
For some time, the people were thus invariably employed; but
the work was often retarded by colds, which was the only sickness
we had as yet experienced: the workmen, indeed, had been often
blinded for four or five days together, by the white sap of a
tree, which getting into their eyes, occasioned a most
excruciating pain for several days. The best remedy we could
apply, was Florence oil; which, dropped into the eye, destroyed
the acrimony of the sap. One man was totally blinded with it, for
want of making timely application to the surgeon.
On the 17th, I detected John Batchelor, one of the marines, in
my tent, stealing rum out of a small vessel, which contained what
was drawn off to serve the officers and men belonging to the
Sirius; and was kept in my tent, as I had not a more secure place
to put it in. In the afternoon, I assembled the settlement, and
punished the thief with three dozen lashes; causing him to be led
by a halter to the place of punishment: I also stopped the
deficiency of rum out of his allowance.
Though there was reason to hope that this example would deter
others from committing crimes of the like nature, yet it had not
the desired effect; for on the 20th, a convict boy was detected
stealing the surgeon's allowance of rum, out of his tent. This
boy was only fifteen years old, and was transported for seven
years. I ordered him to be punished with an hundred lashes, which
I hoped would have a good effect.
We now had two formidable enemies to encounter in the rat and
grub-worm, both which were very numerous and destructive: some
wheat had been sown in the garden ground on the 11th, and the
next morning there was not a grain of it left, being all eat up
by the rats; and the few potatoes and other vegetables, which
escaped the bad effects of the southerly wind, were all eat up by
the grub-worm. I have before observed, that on our first
discovering the rats to be numerous, I ordered the empty casks to
be converted into traps, and for some time they were very
successful, thirty or forty rats being caught for several nights
together: these were killed, and scattered about the garden, to
deter the rest from coming to the place; but they soon grew too
cunning to be caught in the traps, and too bold to be intimidated
by their dead companions. I next caused some glass to be pounded
very fine, and mixed with oatmeal, which being distributed about
the garden, killed vast numbers of them.
To prevent the bad effects of the grub-worm, I tried ashes,
lye of ashes, and urine, but to no purpose, so that the women
were kept constantly employed in picking them off the few plants
we had left.
Out of six ewes which I brought to the island, five died with
the scab, notwithstanding every possible care was taken of them;
and one of my sows was poisoned, by eating something noxious in
the woods. The remainder of my small stock was likely to do very
well: it consisted of two ewes, three sows, two boars, four hens,
one cock, three ducks, one drake, and one goat.
The sugar-cane, two Rio Janeiro banana trees, and two orange
trees, which I brought with me, were kept in tubs, until I should
find a sheltered situation to plant them in. The wind seemed now
to be set in from the southward, and the weather was very raw and
cold, so that I called this the beginning of winter. Another of
my sows was poisoned on the 24th, so that I found it necessary to
confine them in a hog-pen, which, in regard to feeding them, was
a great inconvenience, as they used to provide very well for
themselves in the woods; fortunately, however, a tree was found
which afforded them very good food: this tree grows to the height
of eighty feet, and the branches, which resemble those of the
palm-tree in their growth, fall off every year, leaving an
indentation in the trunk. The leaves of these branches, which are
twelve in number, are much like the heath-fern, from whence this
tree obtained the name of the fern-tree. The middle of the tree,
from the root to the apex, consists of a white substance
resembling a yam, and when boiled, it tastes like a bad turnip;
this the hogs fed on very eagerly: the outside of the trunk is
hard wood, and full of regular indentations from the top to the
bottom. The tree is found in great plenty in all parts of the
island.
At the end of this month, I sent some of the people to assist
Mr. Altree, at the plantation in Arthur's Vale, which was the
name I gave to the valley he had begun to clear; the rest were
employed in clearing the ground at Mount George, except three
men, whom I set to dig a cellar under my house.
On the 8th of May, the two sawyers, the carpenter, and three
convicts were poisoned, by eating some beans, which had a very
tempting appearance, and much resembled the Windsor bean: they
had gathered a quantity, which were boiled, and afterwards fried
with butter: in two hours time, they were seized with violent
gripings, retchings, and cold sweats; fortunately, I had a gallon
of sweet oil, which, with other medicines administered by the
surgeon, happily gave them relief; but they were so much weakened
and exhausted that they were not able to work for a week
afterwards.
For some time past, we had seen no turtle, and it was probable
that the cold weather had driven them to a warmer climate.
As we could catch no fish from the shore, I launched the boat
on the 9th, and sent her into the roads to fish; they returned
with the boat in two hours, and brought thirty-six very fine
fish, weighing from six to eight pounds each: these I caused to
be issued out in lieu of salt provisions, at the rate of six
pounds of fish for one pound of beef. The boats grapnel was left
in the road, and being hooked in the rocks, we never could clear
it.
This ample supply of fish was a most fortunate event; yet they
could not be depended on as a constant resource; for sometimes it
would happen, that a boat could not go without the reef for a
fortnight together, on account of the very violent surf; but when
a boat could be sent out, there was no danger of catching a vast
quantity.
On the 10th, I was obliged to inflict a punishment of forty
lashes on one of the convicts, for making use of very threatening
and seditious language. I had received orders from Governor
Phillip, to make a saving of the salt provisions, whenever fish
or turtle could be obtained, in order that they might last as
long as possible: the putting this order in execution when the
turtle were caught, produced murmuring; but, when the fish was
issued on the 9th, the convict who was punished, said, "the
people (meaning those in the settlement) were fools for suffering
their salt provisions to be stopped," and "that the convicts
would soon be the strongest, and then it would be seen who were
masters." As I thought this language deserved punishment, I
assembled the people, and pointed out to them, that, independent
of the orders I had received, I saw the greatest necessity for
making every possible saving of the provisions: I represented to
them that misfortunes might happen to vessels, provisions might
get spoiled, and many other accidents might happen, which would
render it necessary for us to go to a short allowance; and, that
the greater quantity of provisions which could be saved would be
so much the better for the whole settlement: I concluded with
assuring them, that I should invariably attend to my orders, and
put them in execution; and that a very severe punishment would be
inflicted on any who presumed to excite sedition, or behaved
improperly on that, or any other pretext.
On our first landing, we found a great number of pigeons,
which were so tame, that we knocked them down with sticks; but
latterly they quitted the low boughs, and generally harboured
about the tops of the pines: when plucked and drawn, they weighed
from three-quarters, to one pound each. The parrots are numerous,
and the ugliest bird of the kind I ever heard of; this, added to
the harshness of their note, makes them a very disagreeable bird.
The parroquets are entirely green, except a red tuft on their
head. Hawks are numerous and of two different kinds, the grey and
blue: they were great enemies to the young chickens, and it was
no unusual sight to see them take up the rats. Quails and curlews
are plentiful, but very shy. The owls, which have very handsome
plumage, make a noise like one man calling to another, and they
pronounce the word "yaho" very distinctly. Many of the smaller
birds have a most melodious note, and their plumage is very
beautiful.
There are also a species of birds which burrow in the ground
like rabbits, where they hatch their eggs, and rear their young:
they are web-footed; which is rather extraordinary, and their
bill is like that of other sea-fowl; but they have not the least
fishy taste, and their flesh is very fine. These birds never quit
their holes till sun-set; from which time, until midnight, the
air is full of them: they afforded us many fresh meals.
I now set the two sawyers and two carpenters to work in
building houses; one man was employed in making a crab to heave
the boat by, another attended the live-stock, and the remainder
were busied in clearing ground at Mount George, and Arthur's
Vale.
By the 17th, the rain was almost incessant, and, as I had
every reason to suppose it would continue so three or four months
longer, which would endanger the health of those who lived in
tents; I caused the provisions to be removed from the store-house
to a cellar under my house, which was dry, and the stores I put
into a loft; and, as five men and three women lived at present in
tents, I put them into the store-house, until they could build
huts for themselves. The whole settlement were now well
sheltered, except the surgeon and the midshipman; for whom I
proposed to begin a house immediately.
On the 18th, the shell of my house was finished: its
dimensions were twenty-four feet long by twelve feet wide, and
eight feet under the eaves: the sides and roof were
weather-boarded.
I sent the boat out this afternoon, and she returned with
fifty very fine fish, which were issued out as usual.
I set out on the 19th, with an intention of tracing the
rivulet which runs through Arthur's Vale, to its source, and
likewise to examine the extent of the valley; but, after
wandering about the greatest part of the day, I returned back,
much fatigued, and all the cloaths torn off my back by the briars
and the entangled state of the woods.
Arthur's Vale is situated between the north side of Mount
George and the opposite hills: its direction is about
north-north-west into the interior part of the island. The bottom
of this valley, in some places, is not more than thirty yards
wide; in others, at least three hundred. The hills on each side
are cloathed with a thick forest; their ascent is not too steep
for cultivation, and the soil is excellent, being a fat brown
earth.
A very fine rivulet runs through this vale, sufficiently large
to turn any number of mills. As the bank of the sea-shore is
considerably above the level of the rivulet, it sinks into the
earth; and, after passing under the bank, it forces a passage for
itself through a fissure of the rock, on Stony Beach and Turtle
Bay, between high and low water marks, where it boils up with
great force, and is excellent water. As the whole of this water
is not carried off by the passage just mentioned, sufficient to
keep the low ground clear, what does not pass under the bank,
overflows the lower part of the valley, for the space of half a
mile: this swamp might be drained by cutting a channel for the
rivulet to empty itself on the sea-shore; but the operation would
require time and a number of hands, and, when finished, it is not
clear but that the force of the sea would soon fill the channel
up again.
I cannot ascertain the length of this vale, but I think it
runs as far as Mount Pitt, where, most probably, the rivulet
takes its rise. That part of the vale which I have already said
Mr. Altree was clearing, is half a mile from the settlement, near
a large cluster of plantain trees; he transplanted some of the
young suckers, an operation which was likely to improve them
much: a garden, which measured ninety rods was planted, and most
of the plants were up and likely to do very well. The sugar-cane,
orange trees, and Rio Janeiro plantains, which had hitherto been
kept in tubs, were now planted in the vale, and I had hopes they
would thrive, as the situation was well sheltered: I also planted
a quantity of cotton seeds, as some which were sown when we first
came on shore, rotted in the ground.
The 1st of June, being Sunday, I performed divine service as
usual. In the afternoon, I went in the boat, and attempted to
land on Nepean Isle, on the south-west side of which is a small
creek that goes in a considerable way, with a small sandy beach
at the end of it; but as there was a number of rocks in the
creek, and a surf beating on the shore, I did not land. This
island is covered with pines, which grow at a distance from each
other: there is a reef off the south-east side, which stretches
near a mile; within a ship's length of it, there is fourteen
fathoms water, and nine fathoms all round the east side, within
half a mile of the shore. The passage between Point Hunter and
Nepean Island is a very good one, there being three fathoms close
to Nepean Isle, and eight fathoms in mid-channel. I sounded close
along the back of the reef which runs along Sydney-Bay, and found
four fathoms within a ship's length of the reef. I returned at
sun-set, having caught thirty-six very fine fish, which were
issued out as usual.
I brought only five months bread and flour to the island, and
it being now expended to three casks of each, which was two
months bread at full allowance, and as I had near six months salt
provisions, I put myself and every person on the island to
two-thirds allowance of flour and bread on the 2d, until the
arrival of more provisions.
The 4th, being the anniversary of his Majesty's birth-day, I
caused it to be observed as a holiday. The colours were hoisted
at sun-rise; every person had a good dinner, of the produce of
the island, and I gave the convicts some liquor to drink their
sovereign's health: the evening concluded with bonfires, which,
exclusive of the joy we felt at the return of his Majesty's
birth-day, and the celebrating it in this distant part of the
globe, we with pleasure saw some large piles of wood burnt that
had been along time collecting, and which were a great
incumbrance to us.
At day-light in the morning of the 15th, the midshipman and
four men went out in the boat to fish: they were returning at
nine o'clock, and in passing the point of the reef, the fine
weather, and the absence of surf, threw them so much off their
guard, that the boat shipped a sea which filled her, and washed
John Batchelor, a marine, overboard: the boat, with the rest of
the men, drove in among the rocks to the westward of the
landing-place, where they were saved with great difficulty,
having received violent contusions. The boat was got round to the
crab and hove up; she was much damaged, and her repairs were
likely to take up a considerable time, as I had only two men who
could assist in this business.
The wheat which was sown on the north-east side of Mount
George, the 15th of June, being all rotten in the ground, except
260 blades, which I transplanted and put together, that patch of
ground was sown with barley on the 1st of July. The wheat had a
very bad appearance when put into the ground, being much heated
and destroyed by the weevil.
The labourers were employed the greatest part of this month in
clearing away and turning up some ground near my house, for a
garden; its size about thirty rods. The barley which was sown on
the 1st came up on the 10th, and every thing at the plantation
had a promising aspect. On the 15th, the last cask of beef and
pork were opened, which would serve forty-four days at full
allowance; it therefore was my intention to put every person to
half allowance on the 28th, should no provisions arise before
that period.
On the 17th, we had a most tremendous gale of wind from the
northward, accompanied by a deluge of rain. The gales of wind
were now very frequent from the south-west and north-west, but it
seldom blew hard from the eastward. These gales generally happen
about the full and change of the moon, and continue three or four
days.
We planted upwards of one thousand cabbages on the 23d, and
every vegetable at the plantation was in a thriving state: we had
turneps, carrots, lettuces of three sorts, onions, leeks,
parsley, cellery, five sorts of cabbages, corn sallad,
artichokes, and beet in great forwardness; but there was reason
to fear that the potatoes and yams were quite destroyed by the
grub-worm.
At five in the evening of the 26th, his Majesty's armed tender
the Supply hove in sight, coming round Point Ross: she ran to
leeward of this island, between Nepean and Phillip Isles, to ride
out the gale, which blew very strong at west-south-west. Mr.
Waterhouse, and a midshipman belonging to the Supply, arrived at
the settlement on the 27th, with my dispatches from the governor;
they were sent by Lieutenant Ball, who landed them in Ball's Bay.
I found the Supply had brought provisions, tools, and seeds of
various kinds for the settlement. I was informed by Governor
Phillip, that as the Sirius would go to the northward in the
month of September, he had deferred sending any more convicts
until he heard my account of the island; and that if he thought
it adviseable to send more settlers, they would be brought in the
Sirius, which ship he intended sending among the islands, to
procure stock for breeding. At day-light on the 28th, the
midshipman returned to Ball Bay, in order to go on board the
Supply. The labourers were employed in removing some large stones
from the landing-place, and making a road to roll up the
casks.
I received a message from Lieutenant Ball on the 29th,
intimating, that as the wind was southerly and blew strong, he
meant to anchor under the north-east part of the island; and as I
expected he would anchor in Cascade Bay, I sent a man across the
island on the 30th with a letter for him.
At ten in the morning of the 31st, the Supply's boat landed
with some light articles; Lieutenant Ball sent a carpenter in her
to offer his assistance in building a convenient boat for the use
of the settlement: I directed him to begin his work immediately,
and set the sawyers to work in sawing plank for his use. The
other workmen were employed in turning up a piece of ground to
sow two pecks of good seed wheat on, which came in the
Supply.
From the 1st to the 4th of August, the wind blew very strong
from the southward, which prevented the Supply from coming on
that side of the island; but at sun-set on the 4th, the wind
veering to north-east, she came round Point Ross, and anchored in
the roads. The man whom I sent on the 30th of July across the
island to find the Supply, returned this day at noon, much
exhausted and fatigued: he had lost his way, and had been without
food for three days; fortunately, the Supply was standing in for
the shore and saw him, otherwise he must have perished.
Landing was very safe in the afternoon of the 5th, and we
received on shore a part of the provisions and stores.
At day-light in the morning of the 6th, we hoisted the colours
as a signal that the landing was safe, and at seven o'clock the
colours were struck half staff, this being the signal that
landing was dangerous, the surf having considerably increased
with the flowing tide. At half past seven the Supply weighed, and
soon afterwards she hove to and hoisted her boats out, and sent
them towards the shore. I perceived her small boat was determined
to come in, and being apprehensive that some accident might
happen, I ordered Mr. Cunningham (the mate) into our boat, with
four men, to lie within the point of the reef, in order to assist
the Supply's boat, should any misfortune happen to her.
Unfortunately, our boat was swept away to the westward by the
tide, and whilst they were endeavouring to get under the point of
the reef again a heavy surf broke on her broad side and overset
her. The anguish I felt at this shocking accident may be more
easily conceived than described: small as our numbers were
before, they were now decreased by the loss of Mr. Cunningham,
(whom I sincerely cherished as a good young man) the sawyer, and
one of the best of the convicts; a seaman belonging to the Supply
was also drowned, and another convict narrowly escaped the same
sate. Immediately after this dreadful misfortune the Supply's
jolly-boat landed with three casks of flour, and as the large
boat was coming near the shore, I ordered some musquets to be
fired, on which she returned on board: the Supply bore up, and
ran to leeward of the island. At one o'clock, there being
scarcely any surf, the jolly-boat went off, and ran to leeward of
the island, to get on board the brig.
On the 7th, I was obliged to punish one of the convicts with
thirty-six lashes, for stealing a hatch of eggs from under a hen
which was sitting on them.
At day-light on the 8th, the Supply anchored in the road, and
the landing being good, we received part of the provisions and
stores; the remainder were landed on the 10th.
Our new boat being finished, I sent the carpenter and Mr.
Waterhouse on board the Supply, in the morning of the 11th, with
my letters for the Governor; and soon afterwards she hoisted her
colours, and set sail for Port Jackson.
I received from Governor Phillip seventeen queries, which,
with my answers to them, are as follow:
Query 1. In what time do you think the island will be able to
support the people you have with you, independent of supplies
from this settlement?
Answer. From the excellence of the soil, and the present
appearances, the island will produce more than a sufficiency of
grain in two years: animal food depends on the supply and
breeding of stock; and cloathing on the flax-plant being brought
to work.
Q. 2. Do you wish to have more people sent you, and what
number of men and women do you wish to have in addition to those
you have already.
Ans. With twenty more men, and women in proportion exclusive,
I should be able to make a little progress in clearing and
cultivating the ground.
Q. 3. In what time do you think the island will be able to
maintain the additional number of people you wish to have sent
you?
Ans. I think in two years, but in three at most, as answered
by the first question.
Q. 4. What ground have you in cultivation?
Ans. Two acres and an half in barley, and one acre in garden
ground: in September I shall have an acre in Indian corn and
rice.
Q. 5. Have you discovered the flax-plant?
Ans. Yes: some bundles of the flax-plant which I put into
water on the 17th of March were taken up the 27th of July, when
we found that the thick vegetable of the fibres had rotted away,
but still they were covered with an hard woody substance, from
which we have ineffectually tried to separate the flaxy part,
which I have no doubt would make good cordage, canvas, and linen,
as it appears to be of a fine and strong texture. Some lines were
made of it, which were tolerably strong and good; but the want of
a method to separate the woody part from the flax, will be a
great hindrance to its being made useful.
Q. 6. How many acres of clear ground have you found in the
island?
Ans. Not a yard square.
Q. 7. Have you any place round the island at which a vessel of
thirty or forty tons can remain at anchor in security all the
year round?
Ans. None; without removing to the lee side of the island as
the wind changes. Anchorage is good all round the island, as the
bottom is a coral sand: at about two miles from the land the
circular depth is twenty-two fathoms. An harbour might be made by
cutting a channel through the reef about four hundred feet long,
but it would be necessary to blow up some sunken rocks to
facilitate the entry: if it should ever be thought proper to do
this, five vessels of seven feet draught might lie all the year
round in security within the reef: they will not be able to enter
but in the finest weather, with the wind from north-east to
north-west, and then they must warp in: perhaps less difficulty
will be found when I am informed of the state of the weather
during the Summer months.
Q. 8. How far will it be possible to load any ship hereafter
with spars for ships of the line; I mean with respect to the
great difficulty, I am told, there is to land any thing on the
island, or to take any thing off?
Ans. I cannot answer this question so fully as I could wish,
until I am acquainted with the state of the weather during the
summer months. In fine weather, with the wind at north-east,
spars of any dimensions may be sent off from Sydney-Bay, by
mooring a boat without the reef, and hauling the spars off. I
have great reason to suppose anchorage will be very safe off
Sydney-Bay in the summer. I think vessels might be built and
launched in Ball-Bay; and when the flax-plant can be brought to
work, cordage and sails can be made of the finest and strongest
sort.
Q. 9. How does your stock thrive, and what does the island
produce?
Ans. Of the stock I brought with me, five ewes are dead with
the scab, and two sows poisoned: the rest are all very thriving
and likely to do well. The productions of the island, are timber
for the construction of vessels, pines for masting them, and,
when the flax-plant can be worked, a sufficiency of cordage for
the navy of Great-Britain, which needs no cultivation, as the
island abounds with it, and fresh leaves shoot from the roots.
Pigeons, parrots, parroquets, and other birds, are in abundance;
the sea abounds with fish, and probably we may have turtle during
the summer months. A number of banana trees have been found on
the island.
Q. 10. What live stock do you wish to have sent you?
Ans. Stock of any kind would be acceptable for breeding. I
have no she-goats. The leaves of the trees and underwood, afford
ample and wholesome food for many animals, and the fern-tree,
which is very plentiful, is very good food for hogs.
Q. 11. Are those who are with you satisfied, or do they wish
to be relieved?
Ans. Every one is satisfied, and no person wishes to be
relieved.
Q. 12. What weather have you in general?
Ans. During the months of March and April, we had very fine
weather; since when, it has been variable; and when the wind has
been at south, and south-west, the air was raw and cold. The full
and change of the moon has generally been accompanied with very
heavy gales of wind and torrents of rain, from the north-east, or
south-west, both of which have been very violent at times. We
have had no thunder or lightning, nor ice.
Q. 13. What are the prevailing winds?
Ans. The winds have been variable: westerly winds appear to be
most frequent during the winter, and I have great reason to
suppose easterly winds are constant during the summer.
Q. 14. Have you been at the small islands?
Ans. I have been round Nepean Island once, but could not land
on it, the wind being westerly, which made a great break in the
small sandy bay which lies on the south-west side of that isle.
My not having men to row, and the uncertainty of the weather, has
prevented my going to Phillip isle.
Q. 15. Are there any animals on the island, and of what kind
are they?
Ans. None but rats, which are distructive, and have been very
numerous; but now they are much thinned.
Q. 16. Have you found any lime or chalk stone?
Ans. None.
Q. 17. Have you been supplied with fish?
Ans. Fish in great numbers, and of a large size, abound all
round the island. Some turtle were caught soon after I landed,
but the approach of cold weather drove them off. I have not been
able to send the boat off so often as I wished, not having men to
row, but when she has gone out, a plentiful supply of fish has
been obtained.
* * *
At sun-rise on the 12th of August, we hoisted the colours, in
observance of the birth-day of his Royal Highness the Prince of
Wales; and the same day a rood and an half of ground was sown
with a peck of seed wheat, which I received by the Supply.
From this time till the 17th, every person was employed in
clearing a piece of ground to sow the remainder of the seed
wheat, which was brought by the Supply; and this being completed,
I sent the labourers to clear away, turn up, and plant half an
acre of ground in Arthur's Vale, with Indian corn.
The frequent accidents which had happened to boats here, made
me anxious to search for a better landing place, or a place where
landing might be practicable, when the surf ran too high to land
in Sydney-Bay; and Lieutenant Ball having mentioned one as likely
in Cascade-Bay, on the north side of the island, I set out at
day-light in the morning, taking three men along with me, in
search of it; proposing, at the same time, to examine Ball-Bay in
my road. I left the surgeon commanding officer at the settlement,
and I cannot help testifying the great satisfaction I felt at
having a person of his character, to superintend the work in my
absence, and his steadiness and general knowledge, made him a
valuable associate. After climbing and descending a number of
steep hills, and cutting our way through the thick woods which
covered some small plains, we arrived at a gully to the westward
of Ball-Bay, about eleven o'clock; from whence we walked round to
the bay by the sea-shore, it being low water.
The distance between the two points of Ball-Bay is about a
mile and a half; it goes in west-north-west, and is nearly a mile
deep. At the distance of two hundred yards from the shore, the
bay is entirely surrounded with steep hills, except in the
center, where there is a valley, down which, a stream of fresh
water runs, and empties itself on the beach. The sides of these
hills are cloathed with pines and the flax-plant; the beach is
covered with large round stones, under which is a hard bottom,
formed by the incrustation of sand and shells. The wind being now
at south-south-east, there was not the least surf on the beach;
and I apprehend, that when the wind blows from the south-west,
which makes very bad landing in Sydney-Bay, the landing is very
good here; so that, should I not find Cascade-Bay a more eligible
place than this, it was my intention to make a creek on the
beach, by removing the stones for the breadth of twenty feet,
until the bottom is clear, and as they are very heavy, I do not
think it would be liable to fill up again.
I passed the remainder of the day here, and slept under a tent
which I had brought with me. The next morning at day-light, we
set out from Ball-Bay in order to go to Cascade-Bay, on the north
side of the island, which is not more than three miles distant,
yet we did not arrive there before five o'clock in the afternoon,
quite exhausted and fatigued; having been under the necessity of
cutting our way through the entangled underwood, which
intercepted us in every direction.
The landing place mentioned by Lieutenant Ball, is on a rock,
a little detached from the island, and has communication with it
at half tide: there is no objection to this being a very good
landing place, if it were not for the almost total impossibility
of getting any article of provisions or stores further than the
rock, which is at least three hundred yards from the valley that
leads down to it. Between this rock and the cascade, there is a
stony beach, similar to that at Ball-Bay, on which landing is
very good, with southerly winds, and they generally prevail
during the winter. Spars might be sent off from hence with great
ease; but should the island remain settled, it will be necessary
to make the landing at this place more convenient than it is at
present. We passed the night in the valley above the cascade:
this valley is extensive, and a very large deep rivulet runs
through it.
At day-light on the 19th, we set out on our return to
Sydney-Bay, where we arrived at four in the afternoon, with
scarcely a rag to cover ourselves, the cloaths being torn off our
backs by the briars.
I observed the soil to be very good in every part of the
island I visited during the excursion, and it was well watered;
but the woods were almost impassable. There is a deal of level
ground on the tops of the hills, and most of them will admit of
cultivation; and where they are too steep for that purpose, the
timber which grows on them might he reserved for fuel.
The wheat which we had sown on the 12th and 17th, was all out
of the ground by the 24th, and had a very promising
appearance.
Early in the morning of the 25th, the surgeon, with six men,
went to Ball-Bay, to make a commencement on the creek; taking a
week's provisions and four tents along with them.
I visited this party on the 27th, and found they had made good
progress, considering that their labour was greatly retarded by
neap tides, and an easterly wind, which threw a great surf upon
the beach.
The surgeon and his party returned on the 30th, and the next
morning, at day-light, I set out, with some men, to see what
further could be effected: we got to the bay by half past eight
o'clock, and found the tides of the preceding day had thrown a
number of loose small stones into the cut. As the tide ebbed, I
directed the labourers to clear away a number of large stones
which lay in the entrance of the cut; and at low water, all the
stones were removed as far out as possible, which was compleated
at five o'clock in the afternoon. The out was about three feet
deep, and at half tide there was upwards of six feet at the
entrance: with any other wind than between south-west and
north-west, there is a surf on the beach, which often breaks with
so much violence, as to render any attempt to land highly
dangerous. As I found every thing done at this place, which could
be effected with the small number of men I had, we returned to
Sydney-Bay on the 3d.
Hitherto, the people on the settlement had not done much work
for themselves; and, all the good seed of Indian corn being sown,
I gave every person liberty from this time till the 14th, to
clear away their gardens, and sow them. For four days past, a
single turtle had been observed on the beach; I was loath to turn
it, hoping it would draw others on, but finding that did not
happen, it was turned on the 6th day, and brought to the
settlement, where it was served out as usual.
This turtle had been recently wounded between the shoulders
with a kind of peg; which circumstance, together with some pieces
of canoes, a wooden image resembling a man, and a fresh
cocoa-nut, found in Ball-Bay, induced me to suppose that there is
a considerable island undiscovered, not far from the eastward of
Norfolk-Island. The Indian-corn sown during the last and present
month, was now all up, and likely to do well.
I set off at day-light in the morning of the 15th, and went to
the western or rocky point. The entangled state of the woods on
this part of the island, were worse, if possible, than any where
else, but the soil and general appearance was much the same. From
Point-Ross to Rocky-Point, the shore is inaccessible; consisting
altogether of steep cliffs, which rise perpendicular from the
sea. I returned at sun-set, much fatigued, and my cloaths, as
usual on these excursions, were torn from my back.
As the houses and tents were surrounded by a thick wood, I set
the men to make an opening to the sea-side, by cutting down the
trees and piling up the timber.
In the course of this month, we saw a great number of whales
and thrashers, some of which came close to the reef: indeed, on
our first landing here, I found the entire skeletons of two
whales, which had every appearance of having been driven on
shore, and the flesh destroyed by rats and birds.
On counting some of the plants of barley, I found one grain
produced 124 stalks; this pleasing prospect induced me to set
about building a granary of eighteen feet long by twelve feet
wide; and I set the sawyers and carpenters to work in sawing wood
for that purpose: some of the labourers were ordered to assist
them in placing the granary on posts, others were employed in
making shingles to cover it with, and the rest were digging a
cellar under the surgeon's house, for stowing provisions: the
women were employed in picking grubs off the Indian corn.
In the beginning of October, we found a sensible alteration in
the weather, it being very warm, except the mornings and
evenings, which were still cold: gales of wind were less
frequent, and the landing was better in general than it had been
for two months back. Some heavy rain fell on the 3d, which lodged
the barley, that had been some time in ear, and the rats got to
it, so that our return was likely to be but small.
The Indian corn, which was about eight inches high, suffered
greatly from the grub-worm, which got into the plant and cut it
off close to the ground, destroying forty or fifty plants in the
course of one night, which obliged me to keep the women
constantly employed in picking them off: every other remedy was
tried; such as sprinkling ashes, and lye of ashes round the
roots, but with no good effect.
I made an excursion to Mount Pitt in the morning of the 4th,
and arrived there at noon: from the top of this mount, I had a
complete view of the whole island, and a part of its sea-coast.
The whole exhibited a picturesque scene of luxuriant natural
fertility, being one continued thick wood, and I found the soil
every where excellent. Within a mile of the summit of Mount Pitt,
the ground, which is a red earth, was full of very large holes,
and I fell into one of them at every step, as they were concealed
by the birds making their burrows aslant. Near the summit of the
mount, there grew a number of very large pines, which I was
surprised at; it is indeed wonderful how they can withstand the
violent gales of wind which often blow here.
On the 13th, at day-light, we saw the Golden-Grove transport
lying at an anchor in the road, and soon afterwards, Mr. Donovan,
a midshipman belonging to the Sirius, came on shore, and
delivered the governor's letters: by this gentleman I also
received a letter from Mr. Blackburn, the master of the Supply,
informing me that he sailed from Port Jackson on the 24th of
September, being ordered by Governor Phillip to conduct the
transport to this island; that he had brought Mr. Donovan, a
serjeant, a corporal, and five private marines, two gardeners,
who were seamen belonging to the Sirius, and twenty-one men and
eleven women convicts; also the Supply's jolly-boat and boat's
crew, to assist in unloading the Golden-Grove.
In the course of the 15th, we received on shore the party of
marines and all the convicts; also most of the stores, and some
provisions. The next day we landed 56 casks of flour, and 18
casks of salt provisions, besides a quantity of stores.
This day I turned a turtle, which weighed 200 pounds.
Towards evening, the Golden-Grove weighed, and stood off and
on during the night. Ever since her arrival the weather had been
fine, and not the least surf.