Chapter I

Produced by Col Choat

Italics in the book are enclosed by underscores [_] in the ebook

AN HISTORICAL JOURNAL

OF THE TRANSACTIONS AT

PORT JACKSON AND NORFOLK ISLAND

WITH THE DISCOVERIES WHICH HAVE BEEN MADE IN

NEW SOUTH WALES AND IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN,

SINCE THE PUBLICATION OF

PHILLIP'S VOYAGE,

COMPILED FROM THE OFFICIAL PAPERS;

INCLUDING THE JOURNALS OF GOVERNOR PHILLIP AND KING, AND OF

LIEUT. BALL;

AND THE

VOYAGES

FROM THE FIRST SAILING OF THE SIRIUS IN 1787, TO THE RETURN

OF THAT

SHIP'S COMPANY TO ENGLAND IN 1792

* * * * *

BY JOHN HUNTER Esq.,

POST CAPTAIN IN HIS MAJESTY'S NAVY

* * * * *

ILLUSTRATED WITH SEVENTEEN MAPS, CHARTS, VIEWS AND OTHER EMBELLISHMENTS

DRAWN ON THE SPOT BY

CAPTAINS HUNTER AND BRADLEY, LIEUTENANT DAWES AND GOVERNOR KING

* * * * *

LONDON

Printed for John Stockdale, Picadilly

January 1, 1793.

* * * * *

CONTENTS

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS

LIST OF PLATES

CHAPTER I

The ships destined for Botany-Bay rendezvous at the Mother-Bank.--Leave

that place, and proceed on the voyage.--The convicts on board one of

the transports attempt an insurrection.--Are timely discovered, and the

ring-leaders punished.--Arrived at Santa Cruz.--Transactions there.--

Attempt of a convict to escape.--Description of Laguna, and the adjacent

country. Departure from Santa Cruz.--Pass Cape Frio.--Arrive at

Rio Janeiro. Transactions there.--City of St. Sebastian described.--Table

of Winds, Weather, etc.

CHAPTER II

Anchor in Table-Bay.--Refreshments procured there.--Depart

from the Cape of Good Hope.--Captain Phillip quits the Sirius,

and proceeds on the voyage in the Supply.--The Sirius arrives in

Botany-Bay.--Finds the Supply at anchor there.--Arrival of the

Bussole and Astrolabe.--Leave Botany-Bay, and anchor in Port

Jackson.--The Table of Winds, Weather, etc.

CHAPTER III

Frequent interviews with the natives.--Weapons described.--Ornaments.--

Persons, manners, and habitations.--Method of hunting.--Animals

described.--Birds, and insects.--Diary of the weather.--Departure of

the Bussole and Astrolabe.--A convict pretends to have discovered a gold

mine.--The fraud detected.--Observations for the longitude,

etc

CHAPTER IV

The Sirius leaves Port Jackson.--Sails for the Cape of Good

Hope, by the Eastern Passage.--Falls in with many large islands

of ice.--Casts anchor at Robin's Island.--Tables of the winds,

weather, etc.

CHAPTER V

Depart from Robin's Island, and anchor in Table Bay.--The sick

sent on shore.--Arrival of the Alexander transport.--Provisions

procured for the settlement at Port Jackson.--Departure of the

Sirius.--In great danger from a violent tempest.--Arrives safe at

Port Jackson.--Tables of the winds, weather, variation of the

compass, etc.

CHAPTER VI

The small-pox makes its appearance among the natives.--Its

fatal effects.--A criminal court held.--Six marines tried and

convicted.--Governor Phillip visits Broken-bay.--Explores its

various inlets.--Returns to Port Jackson. Broken-bay

surveyed.--Botany-bay surveyed.--Two natives brought to the

settlement, and kindly treated.--One of them makes his

escape.

CHAPTER VII

The Sirius and Supply sail for Norfolk Island.--Land the

marines and convicts.--Wreck of the Sirius.--Some provisions

saved.--Martial Law established.--Ratio of provisions

settled.--Vast numbers of birds caught.--In distress for

provisions.--Receive a supply from Port Jackson.--Officers and

crew of the Sirius leave Norfolk Island, and arrive at Port

Jackson.--Norfolk Island described.--Its situation and

extent.--Soil.--Climate, etc.--Table of Winds, etc.

CHAPTER VIII

Great improvement of the country at Rose Hill.--Vicissitude of

the climate. Norfolk Island remarkably healthy.--A native runs

away from the settlement.--Frequent visits from the

natives.--Governor Phillip wounded by the natives with a

spear.--Natives again visit the settlement.--Entertain the

governor, etc. with a dance.--Decorate themselves for that

purpose. Method of dancing described.--Music and singing.

CHAPTER IX

Captain Hunter leaves Port Jackson in the Waaksamheyd

transport.--In danger amongst some islands.--Isle of Pines

described.--Stewart's islands discovered.--Fall in with Bradley's

shoals.--Discover a cluster of islands.--Name them Lord Howe's

Groupe.--The natives described.--Attempt to find anchorage on the

coast of New-Britain.--Are disappointed.--Anchor at the Duke of

York's island.--Attempt to procure water.--Are attacked by the

natives.--A few shots fired.--The natives dispersed.--A

reconciliation effected.--Natives described.--Weapons.--Ornaments,

etc.--Produce and soil.--Leave the Duke of York's island.--Natives

from the Admiralty islands visit the ship.--Their canoes

described.--Phillip's islands discovered.--Anchor at Hummock

island.--Refreshments procured.--Visited by the Raja.--A quarrel

ensues.--Several of the natives killed.--Articles of barter in

request.--Canoes described.--Leave Hummock island.--Anchor at

Batavia.--Tables of latitude and longitude, etc.

CHAPTER X

Captain Hunter waits on the Governor at Batavia.--Applies for

a passage to England.--Purchases the Waaksambeyd for that

purpose.--Leaves Batavia.--Passes the Keelings.--Arrives at the

Cape of Good Hope.--Leaves that place, and anchors at Saint

Helena.--Departs from Saint Helena.--Arrives at Portsmouth.--Tables

for the variation of the compass.--Captain Hunter's letter to the

Lords of the Admiralty.

CHAPTER XI

Lieutenant King visits Monsieur De la Peyrouse at

Botany-Bay.--Polit reception there.--An account of his

adventures.--Lieutenant King returns to Port Jackson.--Sent by

Governor Phillip to form a settlement on Norfolk Island.--Leaves

Port Jackson.--An island discovered.--Arrival at Norfolk

Island.--Difficulty in finding a landing-place.--Lands the

convicts, provisions, and stores.--Ground cleared, and tents

fixed.--A store-house erected.--Vegetables, and various sorts of

grain sown.--Distressed by rats.--General orders for the

regulation of the settlement.

CHAPTER XII

Regular employment of the convicts.--Meet with an unlucky

accident.--Thefts detected.--The robbers punished.--Pestered with

rats.--Method of destroying them.--Live stock on the

settlement.--Trees discovered which afford food for hogs.--Some

of the settlers poisoned.--Cured with sweet oil.--A convict

punished for using seditious language.--Birds on the island.

Description of Arthur's Vale.--His Majesty's birth-day

kept.--Flourishing state of the gardens.--Arrival of the

Supply.--Four persons drowned.--Provisions and stores

received.--Queries from Governor Phillip, and the

answers.--Ball-Bay described.--The landing-place

cleared.--Arrival of the Golden Grove transport.--Marines and

convicts brought in the Golden Grove.--Provisions and stores.

CHAPTER XIII

Quantity of provisions received by the Golden Grove.--Timber

sent to Port Jackson.--Observations on the navigation near

Norfolk Island.--Number of persons on the settlement.--Nepean and

Phillip Islands described.--Corn reaped.--A party sent to Ball

Bay.--Talk-work of the convicts.--The free people

exercised.--Plot to seize the island discovered.--Orders made

public for the preservation of regularity.--Oath of allegiance

administered.--Provisions and stores examined.

CHAPTER XIV

A violent hurricane at Norfolk Island.--Arrival of the

Supply.--Convicts sent from Port Jackson.--Provisions and

stores.--Departure of the Supply.--Robberies

committed.--Employment of the convicts.--Wheat infested with

caterpillars.--A store-house erected.--Arrival of a party of

marines from Port Jackson.--Thefts committed.--Orders read for

preserving regularity.--A female convict punished.--Pernicious

effects of the grub-worm.--Gardens plundered.--A granary

erected.--Wheat destroyed by paroquets.--Number of inhabitants on

the island.

CHAPTER XV

The arrival of the Sirius and Supply at Norfolk-Island.--The

loss of the Sirius.--Captain Hunter and the crew saved.--A

general meeting of the officers convened.--Sundry regulations

adopted.--Martial-Law proclaimed.--Lieutenant-Governor Ross takes

the command.--Lieutenant King leaves Norfolk-Island.--Description

of Norfolk-Island.--Face of the country.--Water--Soil--Climate--Timber--

Insects--Fish--Seasons--Winds--Coast, and Bays.--Present state of

cultivation.--General behaviour of the convicts.--Number of inhabitants

on the island.--Grain and live-stock.--Lieutenant King arrives at

Port Jackson.--Finds the country greatly improved.--Manners and

customs of the natives.--Vocabulary of the language.

CHAPTER XVI

Lieutenant King sails for Batavia.--Meets with a dangerous

shoal.--Discovers Tench's-Island.--A description of the

inhabitants.--Prince William-Henry's Island described.--Touches

at Kercolang.--A description of the inhabitants, their cloathing

and utensils.--Passes through the Streights of Salayer.--Arrival

at Batavia.--Interview with the governor.--Batavia

described.--Situation and extent.--Manners and customs of the

inhabitants.--Government and police.--Annual exports.--Departure

from Batavia.--Mortality amongst the sailors.--Arrival at the

Isle of France.--An account of that island.--Sails from the Isle

of France.--Arrival in the English Channel.

CHAPTER XVII

The Lady Juliana Transport arrives at Port Jackson.--Loss of

the Guardian.--A settlement made at Sydney-Cove.--A state of the

settlements at Sydney-Cove and Rose-Hill.--A general return of

male convicts, with their employments.

CHAPTER XVIII

An excursion into the country.--An interview with the

natives.--Governor Phillip wounded with a spear.--A second

interview with the natives.--Occurrences on that occasion.--Five

convicts effect their escape in a boat.--The settlement visited

by the natives.--Their customs.--Arrival of the Supply from

Batavia.

CHAPTER XIX

Fruits in season described.--The manners of the natives.--Disputes

with them.--Arrival of a vessel from Batavia.

CHAPTER XX

The depredations of the natives.--Bannelong's behaviour.--The

Supply sails for Norfolk-Island.--The quantity of provisions

brought in the Waaksam-heid from Batavia.--The appearance of a

prodigious number of Bats.--The return of Bannelong.--The manners

of the natives further described.

CHAPTER XXI

An excursion into the country.--Occurrences on the

journey.--Surprising dexterity of the natives in climbing

trees.--Their superstition.--Their method of curing

wounds.--Their language.--Their manners and disposition.

CHAPTER XXII

A second excursion into the country.--The first grants of land

to settlers.--A barter with the natives established.--The arrival

of several vessels from England.--A new harbour discovered.--The

names of the first settlers.

CHAPTER XXIII

Arrival of the Gorgon, and several transports at Port

Jackson.--The number of convicts brought out in these vessels.--A

whale-fishery established on the Coast of New South Wales.

CHAPTER XXIV

The Supply leaves Port Jackson.--Receives some damage in a

storm.--Doubles Cape Horn.--Passes Staten's land.--Anchors at Rio

Janeiro.--Refreshments procured.--Departure from Rio

Janciro.--Proceeds towards England.--Arrives off the

Lizard.--Particulars respecting Norfolk-Island.

* * * * *

A LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS

A.

Altamont, Countess of

Andrews, James Pettit, Esq;

Abercorn, Marquis of

Atkins, Edwin Martin, Esq; Kingston-Lisle

Addington, Right Hon. Henry, Speaker of the House of Commons

Arden, Sir Richard Pepper, Master of the Rolls

Arden, John, Esq; Ashley-Hall, Cheshire

Appleyard, Mr. 6 Copies

Arch, J. and A. 6 Copies

Anderson, Mr. J. 2 Copies

Archer, Mr. John, Dublin, 12 Copies

Astley, Mrs. Duckenfield Lodge, Cheshire

B.

Banks, Sir Joseph, Bart.

Bolton, Duke of

Berkeley, Captain

Bath, Marquis of

Buckingham, Marquis of

Badcock, Colonel, Little Missenden-Abbey, Bucks.

Best, Richard, Esq; Chatham

Buccleugh, Duke of

Bradshaw, Mr.

Beaufort, Duke of

Bunbury, Sir Charles, Bart.

Barnard, Mr. jun.

Bredalbane, Earl of

Barker, Lieutenant-Colonel

Barwell, Richard, Esq;

Bayham, Lord

Browne, Mr. William, Bristol

Baldwin, Mr. 6 Copies

Becket, Mr. 6 Copies

Bell, Mr. 6 Copies

Brown, Mr. 3 Copies

C.

Curzon, Lady Charlotte

Chesterfield, Earl of

Cherry, George, Esq;

Chalmers, George, Esq;

Charlston Library

Charlston, Senate of

Chichester, Sir John, Bart.

Chatham, Earl of

Castera, J. Paris

Clarke, George Hyde, Esq; Hyde-Hall, Cheshire

Cock, Thomas Theophilus, Esq; Messing, Essex

Clarke, Edward, Esq;

Cadell, Mr. 2 Copies

Clarke and Son, 2 Copies

Crowder, Mr. 2 Copies

Cole, Lieutenant George

Coxe, Daniel, Esq;

D.

Dacre, Lord

Darby, W. T. Esq;

Dartmouth, Earl of

Dorset, Duke of

Dalrymple, Alexander, Esq;

Davison, Alexander, Esq;

Dimsdale, R. J. Esq;

Delaval, Lord

Donowell, Mr. John, Architect

Dover, Lord

Deighton, Mr. 7 Copies

Donegal, Marquis of

De Lancy, Colonel

De la Pole, Sir John, Bart.

De Saussure, H. W. Esq; Charlston

Darton and Harvey, 6 Copies

Dilly, Mr. 12 Copies

Dangerfield, Mr.

E.

Elgin, Earl of

Ekins, Charles, Esq;

Eardley, Lord

Eliot, Lord

Enys, John, Esq;

Enderby, Samuel, Esq;

Edwards, Mr. R. 8 Copies

Edwards, Mr. J. 6 Copies

Egerton, T. and J. 6 Copies

Evans, Mr. James, 6 Copies

Edwards, John, Esq;

F.

Forbes, Hon. John, Admiral of the Fleet

Fife, Earl of

Frederick, Sir John, Bart

Fitzhenry, Thomas, Esq;

Faulder, Mr. 30 Copies

Faden, Mr. W. 6 Copies

G.

Gloucester, His Royal Highness the Duke of

Grenville, Lord

Grote, George, Esq;

Gardner, Alan, Esq;

Green, Sir William, Bart.

Graeme, Charles, Esq;

Grantham, Lady

Goldsmith, Mr. 4 Copies

Goulding, Mr.

Gray, Mr. 2 Copies

H.

Hillsborough, Earl of

Hobart, Major

Hardwicke, Earl of

Howe, Hon. Mrs.

Howe, Countess

Howe, Lady Mary

Hall, Rev. Mr.

Howard de Walden, Lord

Heathcote, Thomas, Esq;

Home, Patrick, Esq;

Hood, Lord

Hopetoun, Earl of

Hunter, John, Esq;

Hawkesbury, Lord

Hawke, Lord

Haydon and Son, Plymouth, 3 Copies

Hamilton, Mr. 3 Copies

Hookham and Carpenter, 6 Copies

Hodgson, Mr. 2 Copies

Hanmer, Job, Esq; Holbrook-Hall, Suffolk

J.

Jackson, Sir George, Bart.

Jones, Robert, Esq; Fonmore-Castle, Glamorganshire.

Jeffery, Mr. 3 Copies

Johnson, Mr. 12 Copies

K.

Kelly, Earl of

Kirby, Mr. 2 Copies

L.

Leeds, Duke of

Lenox, Lord George

Law, Thomas, Esq;

Lucadou, James, Esq;

Lettsom, Dr.

Leslie, Mr. George, Edinburgh

Legg, Mr. Basingstoke

Loveden, Edward Loveden, Esq;

Long, Charles, Esq;

Long, Samuel, Esq;

Law and Son, 12 Copies

Lowndes, Mr. 2 Copies

Lackington, Mr. 2 Copies

Longman, Mr. 6 Copies

M.

Montrose, Duke of

Martindale, John, Esq;

Mossop, Rev. Mr. Academy, Brighton

Mac Leod, Colonel

Macdonald, Sir Archibald, Attorney-General

Mitchell, Captain

Meyrick, John, Esq;

Macaulay, Mr. Alderman

Montagu, M. Esq;

Madden, James, Esq;

Mornington, Earl of

Miller, Lady

Madox, John, Esq;

M'Queen, Mr. 2 Copies

Murray, Mr. 25 Copies

Miller, Mr. 3 Copies

N.

Newcastle, Duke of

Nepean, Evan, Esq;

Nelthorpe, John, Esq; Lincoln

Nicholls, Mr.

Northesk, Earl of

O.

Otridge, Mr. 4 Copies

Ogilvie and Co. 2 Copies

P.

Pitt, Right Hon. William

Peachy, John, Esq;

Peachy, Sir James, Bart.

Petrie, William, Esq;

Patterson, John, Esq; Norwich

Putland, William, Esq;

Pye, Henry James, Esq;

Pinckney, Charles, Esq; Charleston

Payne, Mr. 6 Copies

Phillips, Mr. 6 Copies

R.

Rivers, Lord

Rose, George, Esq;

Rittson, John, Esq;

Rastall, Rev. Mr. Newark

Robinson, Thomas, Esq;

Rolt, Colonel, Bagden-Lodge, Marlborough

Regiment, 73d Bengal

Rudge, Samuel, Esq;

Robson, Mr. 27 Copies

Robinsons, Messrs. G. G. J. and J. 50 Copies

Rivingtons, Messrs. F. and C. 6 Copies

Richardson, Mr. 6 Copies

Redhead, Henry, Esq;

S.

Salisbury, Marquis of

Stafford, Marquis of

Sydney, Viscount

St. John, Lord

Sanderson, Sir James, Lord Mayor of the City of London

Smyth, John, Esq;

Salisbury, E. W. V. Esq;

Spencer, Earl

Stanley, Colonel

Smith, Sir John, Bart.

Stephens, Phillip, Esq;

Sotheron, William, Esq;

Sturt, Charles, Esq;

Scawen, James, Esq;

Spence, George, Esq;

Sylvester, Mr. John

Stockdale, Mr. Jeremiah, Mill-Maker to his Majesty

Scott, Rev. George

Sael, Mr. 2 Copies

Southern, Mr. 3 Copies

Sewell, Mr. 6 Copies

Strachan, Mr. 6 Copies

Scatchard and Co. 6 Copies

Symonds, Mr. 12 Copies

Steel, Mr. 6 Copies

T.

Thornton, Robert, Esq;

Townshend, Hon. J. T.

Tihe, Robert Stearne, Esq; Clanville Lodge, Andover

Thornton, Mr.

U.

Urry, Captain, R. N.

V.

Vansittart, Nicholas, Esq;

Vernor and Hood, 6 Copies

W.

Walsingham, Lord

Warren, Dr.

Worcester, Marquis of

Weymouth, Lord

Wray, Sir Cecil, Bart

Woodford, Sir Ralph, Bart.

Warwick, Earl of

Wedgewood, Josiah, Esq;

Wentworth, Lord

Wright, Mr. William, Academy, Apsley, Wooburn, Bedfordshire

Wenman, Right Hon. Viscount

Wood, Mr. Hutton

Worcester Society

Watts, Lieutenant John, R. N.

Warren, Sir John Borlase, Bart.

Wilkie, Mr. 6 Copies

White and Sons, 6 Copies

Walker, Mr. David, 2 Copies

Walker, Mr. John, 6 Copies

Walter, Mr. 12 Copies

Y.

Young, Arthur, Esq

Yates, Joseph, Esq

Young, Sir George

Yorke, Charles, Esq.

* * * * *

LIST OF PLATES.

1. Captain Hunter

2. Vignette on the Title Page.

[Refer to paragraph "On our speaking to her, she raised herself up"...]

3. A Map of New South Wales

4. View of the Settlement on Sydney Cove, Port Jackson

5. The Southern Hemisphere, showing the Track of the Sirius

6. A Chart of Botany-Bay, Port Jackson, and Broken-Bay, with the Coast

and Soundings

7. View at Rose-Hill

8. A Man of Lord Howe's Groupe

9. A Man of the Duke of York's Island

10. Canoes of the Duke of York's-Island

11. Canoes of the Admiralty Islands

12. Track of the Waaksamheyd Transport

13. A Plan of Norfolk-Island

14. A Family of New South Wales

15. Non-Descript Shells, of New South Wales, Plate I.

16. Non-Descript Shells, of New South Wales, Plate II.

17. Non-Descript Shells, of New South Wales, Plate III.

* * * * *

A VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES

Chapter I

October 1786 to September 1787

The ships destined for Botany-Bay rendezvous at the Mother-Bank.--Leave

that place, and proceed on the voyage.--The convicts on board one of

the transports attempt an insurrection.--Are timely discovered, and

the ring-leaders punished.--Arrived at Santa Cruz.--Transactions

there.--Attempt of a convict to escape.--Description of Laguna, and

the adjacent country. Departure from Santa Cruz.--Pass Cape Frio.--Arrive

at Rio Janeiro. Transactions there.--City of St. Sebastian described.--

Table of Winds, Weather_, etc.

It being the intention of government to remove the

inconvenience, which this country suffered, from the goals being

so exceedingly crouded with criminals, who had been by the laws

condemned to transportation, the east coast of New Holland was

the place determined upon to form a settlement for this salutary

purpose. The east coast of New Holland is that country, which was

discovered and explored by Captain James Cook, in his first

voyage round the world, and by him called New South Wales. Botany

Bay, the only place he entered with the ship, which could be

called a harbour, having been mentioned in the narrative of that

voyage, as a convenient place for a settlement, was fixed upon by

government for the intended design.

On the 25th of October, 1786, his Majesty's ship Sirius, lying

in the dock at Deptford, was commissioned, and the command given

to Arthur Phillip, Esq; the Supply armed tender was also put in

commission, and Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball was appointed to

command her.

The Sirius was a ship of about 540 tons burthen, exceedingly

well calculated for such a service; she mounted 20 guns, and had

a spar deck over them, was of a round full built, and was all

together a very capacious and convenient vessel. The Supply armed

tender was a brig, and was one of the vessels which were employed

in carrying naval stores from one of his Majesty's dock-yards to

another; she was a very firm strong little vessel, very flat

floored, and roomy, mounted eight guns, and had a deep waist,

which I feared would be found a very great, if not a dangerous

inconvenience in so low a vessel on so long a voyage. The

Sirius's compliment was 160 men; that of the Supply, 55 men.

These two ships were intended, after having performed the service

of escorting the convicts to the place of their destination, to

remain in the country to be employed as the governor might find

necessary for the public service, until they should be relieved

by other ships from England.

I had some reason, during the equipment of those ships, to

think I might be employed upon this service, in some way or

other; and as Captain Phillip was appointed governor of the new

settlement, and of course had much business to transact in

London, I frequently visited the Sirius, and frequently received

his directions in any thing that related to the fitting her; she

was out of the dock and the rigging in hand when I first went on

board, On the 9th of December, the ship being ready to fall down

the river, we slipped the moorings and sailed down to Long-Reach,

where we took in the guns and ordnance stores. On the 15th, I was

informed by a letter from Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the

Admiralty, that there was a commission signed for me in that

office, and desiring I would come to town and take it up. The

nature of the service upon which the Sirius might be employed in

those seas to which she was bound, having been considered, it was

judged necessary that an officer, bearing a certain rank, should

command that ship in the absence of Captain Phillip, whose

prefence, it was to be supposed, would be requisite at all times

wherever the seat of government in that country might be fixed.

In consequence of Mr. Stephens's letter, I repaired to the

Admiralty, and received a commission, appointing me Second

Captain of his Majesty's ship Sirius, with the rank of Post

Captain, and with power to command her in the absence of her

principal Captain; subject nevertheless to his controul, and to

such orders and directions for my proceedings as he might see

occasion to give me, for the good of the service. This

appointment of a Second Captain, to a private ship, being the

first instance in our service, it could not, consistent with the

established regulations of the navy, take place, but by the

authority of the King's order in council: an order from his

Majesty in council, authorizing the Lords of the Admiralty to

make such appointment, was therefore given.

On the 30th of January, 1787, two transports, one having male,

the other female convicts on board, dropt down to Long-Reach, but

they having business to transact with the owners of the ships,

relative to their ships companies, were permitted to proceed as

low as Gravesend, where the Sirius joined them the next day, and

proceeded immediately to the Nore, where we anchored the same

day, and were joined by his Majesty's armed tender Supply: on the

4th of February, we anchored in the Downs, and were detained

there by bad weather and contrary winds, until the 19th, when we

put to sea in company with the Supply and transports, and arrived

on the Mother-Bank on the 21st: at this anchorage, all the

transports and store-ships were directed to rendezvous; the

latter were already arrived, and, while we lay here, the other

transports joined us from the westward.

On the 9th of May, Captain Phillip arrived in Portsmouth, and

the next day came on board, and issued the signals and other

necessary orders to Lieutenant John Shortland, the agent for

transports, to be delivered to the masters of the different

ships.

On Sunday the 13th, we sailed from the Mother-Bank in company

with the Supply armed tender, six transports, having on board 600

male, and 200 female convicts, and three store-ships, carrying

provisions and various other stores: on board the ships carrying

convicts, were embarked 160 marines, with their proper officers;

Major Robert Ross was commandant of the battalion, and appointed

lieutenant-governor of the new settlement; a surgeon and three

assistants were also embarked in the transports, with medicines

and necessaries for the people under their care. The wind being

easterly, we ran out at the Needles, and were accompanied by his

Majesty's ship Hyena, Captain De Coursey, who had received orders

from the Admiralty to see us 100 leagues to the westward.

We had light breezes with fair and pleasant weather down the

channel, but had the mortification to find that two of our

transports sailed exceedingly bad; one of which, the Hyena towed

two or three days. On the 15th, at sun-set, the Start Point bore

north-east half east by compass, distant seven or eight leagues:

at noon on this day (which finishes the nautical and begins the

astronomical day) the longitude, by account, was 5°. 01'.

west of the meridian of Greenwich, and by a timepiece made by Mr.

Kendal, with which the Board of Longitude had supplied us, it was

4°. 59'. west; we had a variety of weather from this time

till the 21st. when being in latitude 47°. 52'. north, and

longitude 12°. 14'. west, Captain Phillip put his dispatches

on board the Hyena; she saluted us with three cheers, and we

parted company; the wind was now, and had been for some days

before, in the south-west quarter, with hazy weather, our

progress to the southward was therefore but slow; much attention

was required on our part to the rate of sailing of the different

transports, in order to prevent separation.

At this time a report was made from one of the transports,

both by the commanding marine officer on board, and the master of

the ship, that a discovery had been made of an intended

insurrection amongst the convicts in that ship; in which, if they

had succeeded, they were to have quitted the fleet in the night,

and afterwards to have made such use of the ship, as they should,

upon farther consideration of the matter, determine amongst

themselves. Captain Phillip had very humanely, a few days

previous to this scheme, directed that the irons with which most

of the male convicts had hitherto been confined, should be taken

off them generally, that they might have it more in their power

to strip their cloaths off at night when they went to rest, be

also more at their ease during the day, and have the farther

advantage of being able to wash and keep themselves clean; this

indulgence had no doubt left it more in the power of those who

might be disposed to exert their ingenuity, in so daring an

attempt, to carry their plan into execution with a greater

probability of success; but I am thoroughly convinced, that so

strict an attention to duty was paid by the whole of the marines

employed on this service, that such an attempt would have

terminated in the destruction of those who appeared most active

and forward in it. Two of the principals were brought on board

the Sirius, severely punished, and sent on board another

transport, properly secured in heavy irons.

On the 23d, the wind inclined to the north-west, and, after

heavy rain, settled in that quarter; by the favour of this change

we proceeded to the southward, at the rate of between 70 and 100

miles in 24 hours. On the 26th, the wind shifted to the

northward, and from that to the north-east; our latitude at this

time was 42°. 10'. north, and the longitude 11°. 36'.

west; variation of the compass, 20°. 19'. west.

On the 29th in the evening, (as we intended making the islands

of Porto Sancto and Madeira) being but a little distance from the

former, and the weather being hazy, we shortened sail, to prevent

the convoy from falling suddenly in with the land in the night:

at day-light the next morning, we saw the Deserters off Madeira,

bearing west-south-west, five leagues distant; we had passed the

island of Porto Sancto in the night, having steered to pass eight

or nine leagues to the eastward of it; we found the ship set this

last 24 hours 12 miles to the southward of the log. At noon the

south-easternmost Deserter bore by compass north 17°. west,

by which we made its latitude 32°. 29'. north, and its

longitude by the time-keeper 16°. 38'. west of Greenwich; the

variation of the compass was here 17°. 00' west: from hence,

with a light breeze from the northward, we steered south half

west, by compass, and at five P.M. on the 1st of June, we made

the Salvages; which was rather sooner than we expected, by the

distance we had run from the Deserters off Madeira, and the

latitude observed the preceding noon, by which we judged

ourselves not less than 17 leagues from them. At midnight we were

exactly in their parallel, and saw them very distinctly by the

light of the moon, which was very clear; their latitude, deduced

from the preceding, as well as following meridian observations,

is 30°. 12'. north, which is 12 miles to the northward of

what they are generally placed, either in tables or charts; their

longitude, by our time-keeper, is 15°. 53'. west. I had never

seen these rocks before, and always understood them to be small

inconsiderable spots, but the largest is so high as to be seen at

the distance of seven or eight leagues, and appears to be about a

mile and a half in length, from north-west to south-east; there

are a few scattered rocks appear above water, to the westward;

and I have been told, that a reef of considerable extent

stretches out from them to the westward.

From the time of our passing these rocks until the evening of

the 3d, we had very light airs and variable, but mostly from the

south-west quarter, and every day found we were affected by a

southerly current of 10 or 12 miles in 24 hours. The wind now

sprung up from the northward, and we steered for the island of

Teneriffe, directing our course by the longitude determined from

the time-keeper, the account being 1°. 04'. to the westward

of it, and our lunar observations within three miles of it: at

day-light in the morning we saw the island of Teneriffe, and at

noon Point de Nagara, or north-east point, bore south-west by

south, distant five leagues; some of the convoy being

considerably astern we brought to, and in the afternoon, there

being a fresh of wind from the north-east, we bore away and made

the signal for the convoy to make all the sail possible, in

order, as we were strangers to Sancta Cruz road, that we might

save day-light to the anchorage, which we effected, and had the

whole convoy in before dark; at half past six in the evening we

anchored in 15 fathoms water, soft ground, being a mixture of

sand and black mud: we moored with the bower anchors, and had the

church of St. Francisco south 73°. 00'. west, the easternmost

point in sight, called Point Roquet, (from a small rock which

lies a little detached from it) north 78°. 00'. east, and a

fort to the south-west of the town, south 45°. 00'. west,

distant from the nearest shore about two and a half cables

length. The ground all over this bay is said to be foul; we

therefore buoyed up our cables, but had no reason, upon examining

them afterwards, to believe there was any foul ground where we

lay.

The next morning, Captain Phillip sent an officer to wait on

the governor with the usual information of whom we were, and our

business at that island; but, previous to our anchoring, the

master attendant, and some other officers, were on board the

Sirius for this very purpose; a ceremony which I believe is

seldom neglected. When the officer returned, he brought a very

polite reply from the governor, signifying his sincere wishes

that the island might be capable of supplying us with such

articles as we were in want of, and his assurances that every

refreshment the place afforded we should certainly have. Captain

Phillip then waited on the governor, accompanied by Major Ross,

myself, and several other officers; we were most politely

received by him, and he repeated his hope that Teneriffe might

afford every refreshment which we had occasion for.

Two days after this visit, the governor, who was then the

Marquis Branceforte, and captain-general of the whole of the

Canary Islands, notwithstanding he had the day before returned

Captain Phillip's visit by an officer, came on board himself,

attended by several officers. He remained about an hour on board,

and asked many questions respecting the extent of our voyage, and

situation of the place where we were going to settle, all of

which we explained to him by a general chart of the world. A day

or two after this visit, Captain Phillip received an invitation

to dine with him, and to bring as many of the principal officers

as could be spared from the ships: we waited on him in a party

about twelve, and were very hospitably and politely entertained;

in short, on the whole, I never met with so polite and so

pleasant a man in any foreign port I have ever visited.

During the time we lay in this road, the ships companies, the

marines, and convicts, were every day supplied with fresh

provisions, of which there appeared to be great abundance on the

island: vegetables and fruit were at this time scarce; potatoes,

onions, and pumpkins _only_ were to be had, and those but in

small quantities. It was Captain Phillip's intention, when we

arrived here, to have remained only three or four days, but we

found that the watering of the ships was a business which could

not be completed in so short a time. During our stay, the

watering the ships was our principal consideration, and it was

often unavoidable to be employed in this necessary business on

board the transports after dark; the watering-place being only

contrived to load two boats at a time.

A convict one evening, while every body was employed in

clearing a boat of water, contrived to slip into a small boat,

and dropt away from the ship unperceived; when he got to some

considerable distance off, he then exerted himself at his oars,

and got on board a foreign East-India ship, which was lying here,

and offered himself as a seaman, but was refused; finding himself

disappointed in his hope of getting off in that ship, he judged

it necessary, knowing that he would very soon be missed, and

search made after him, to quit that ship; he landed to the

westward of the town, but on a place where there was a good deal

of surf, and where the rocks behind him were inaccessible. The

officer of marines on board that transport, having ordered the

convicts to be mustered as usual at setting the watch, when they

were always put below, found this man was missing, and immediate

information of it sent to Captain Phillip; who next morning sent

an officer from the Sirius to the governor, requesting his

assistance in recovering the deserter; orders were immediately

given by the governor for that purpose; in the morning early,

boats were dispatched from the ships to row along shore to the

westward, to endeavour to recover the boat he had taken away, and

a little to the westward of the town, they discovered the boat

beating on the rocks; and rowing in to pick her up, they

discovered the fellow concealing himself in the cliff of a rock,

not having been able to get up the precipice: the officer

presented a musket at him, and threatened if he did not

immediately come down and get into the boat he would shoot him;

the fellow complied, rather than run the hazard of being shot,

and was taken on board, punished, and put in irons until we got

to sea, when he was liberated in the same manner as the rest.

Before we were ready to put to sea, a party of us had

determined to make a short excursion into the country, where we

had no doubt of finding its aspect more inviting than the

prospect from the ships: for this purpose, we set out one morning

very early, accompanied by two British gentlemen, who were

merchants resident here, (Mr. Little and Mr. Armstrong,) and who

had shown us upon every occasion much civility and attention:

those gentlemen had previously provided horses, mules,

provisions, etc. We directed our journey to the city of

Laguna, which was, and is still called the capital of the island;

it is said to be but three or four miles from Santa Cruz; but,

whether from the badness of the road, (which is certainly the

worst I ever saw in any country,) or the slowness of our progress

from that cause, I thought it not less than twice that

distance.

When we arrived at Laguna, we walked through many of the

streets, which are very regular, and cross each other at right

angles; the buildings in general are good, and some of the

streets are wider than you generally see them in any of the

Spanish or Portuguese towns: there are two parish churches, which

have short square steeples, but they appear above all the other

buildings; there are also two nunneries, and three or four

convents, which are built in a quadrangular form, and have good

gardens. In the middle of the town is a conduit, which supplies

the inhabitants with water. This city stands on a plain of

considerable extent, over part of which we rode, until we came to

the foot of the hill from whence the town is supplied with water.

We ascended the mountain, and traced the stream to its

fountain-head, where we found it issuing from cavities in several

parts of the hill, and was conveyed down the declivity in

stone-troughs, and received on the plain by troughs of wood,

supported about seven or eight feet above the ground by props;

through this aqueduct, the water is carried to the center of the

city, over a plain, from a distance of four or five miles.

The plain on which Laguna stands, is pleasant and fertile; it

was now the height of their harvest, and many people were

employed in cutting down the corn, with which this plain seemed

to be well planted; there were also many pleasant gardens here,

and the soil in general appeared rich. The plain is surrounded by

very high mountains, down the sides of which in the rainy season,

(for their rains are periodical,) vast torrents of water run,

from which cause, I apprehend, its unhealthiness must proceed;

for I was told, when remarking how thinly the town of Laguna

appeared to be inhabited, that very few, who had it in their

power to choose their place of residence, would continue in

Laguna. The governor has a palace here, but generally resides at

Santa Cruz; and this city, once the residence of persons in great

authority, is now quite deserted by people of any distinction. I

saw nothing of the lake from which it derives its name, but was

given to understand that it was now a very inconsiderable piece

of water; probably the accounts given of there having been a

large lake here, may have originated from the plain being quite a

swamp during the fall of the heavy rains. We returned to Santa

Cruz the same evening, very much pleased with our excursion: I

regretted much, that the time proposed for settling our business

here, would not admit of a visit to the Peak, a mountain so much

spoken of by all who have visited this island, for its wonderful

height.

The bay of Santa Cruz is defended by many small batteries of

four or five guns each, which are placed at certain distances

from each other, round the bay, and close to the water-side,

which exposes them much to the annoyance of ships; but their

principal fort is near the landing place, and is a strong work,

but the water being deep very near in, they are all exposed to

the attack of ships: on the whole, it is said, they mount near

one hundred pieces of cannon.

The town of Santa Cruz is very irregularly built; the

principal street is broad, and has more the appearance of a

square than a street; the governor's house stands at the upper

end; it is but a mean looking building, and has more the

appearance of a country inn, than the palace of a governor: at

the lower end of the street there is a square monument,

commemorating the appearance of Notre Dame to the Guanches, the

original inhabitants of the island. The out-skirts of the town

have more the appearance of a place deserted and in ruins, than a

place of trade, for many of the houses there are either left half

built, or have fallen to decay from some other cause, and the

stone walls, which were their principal fences, are broken down

and in ruins.

On the ninth of June, in the afternoon, the transports having

completed their watering, the signal was made from the Sirius for

every person of our fleet to repair immediately on board their

respective ships, and on the 10th, in the morning, we put to sea

with a light air of wind from the land.

The island of Teneriffe is situated in latitude as observed in

the road, 28° 29' 5" north, and longitude, determined by the

time-keeper, 16° 18' 00" west.

We steered to the south-west until we were near the meridian

of the island of Sal, the northernmost of the Cape De Verde

Islands, and then shaped our course so as to fall in a little to

the eastward of it. At 10 in the evening of the 18th, being at no

great distance from the island, we made the signal for the convoy

to shorten sail, the distance not being sufficient to admit of

our carrying sail all night; at nine the next morning we saw the

island bearing north-west by north, distant four leagues: I make

the latitude of the north end 16° 48' north, and its

longitude, determined by the time-keeper, is 23° 03' west,

the south end is in latitude 16° 39' north. We steered from

abreast the center of this island, south half east by compass,

which carried us about three or four miles wide of the reef,

which extends from the north-east part of Bonavista, and runs

from the shore in a south-east direction three or four miles: it

was about two o'clock in the afternoon when we made the island of

Bonavista, so that we had a very good opportunity of seeing the

reef, from which I observe Captain Cook says, in one of his

voyages, he was in great danger, and that it lies off the

south-east part of the island; which is certainly a mistake, for

we ran down the east side of the island, at the distance of three

miles from the reef, and I make its latitude and longitude as

follows:--

Island of Bonavista:

Latitude of the north end 16° 13' north.

Longitude by time-keeper 22° 51' west.

Latitude of the south end 16° 00' north.

Variation of the compass 11° 19' west.

At twelve o'clock at night, having an intention of anchoring

in Port Praya Bay, in the island of Saint Jago, we made the

signal and brought-to till day-light; we then made sail, the

weather very hazy, which is generally the case among these

islands: we ran close round the south end of the isle of May, and

stretched over for the south end of Saint Jago; but when we

opened Port Praya Bay, we were suddenly taken aback with the wind

from north-west, and every ship appeared to have the wind in a

different direction. In this situation it was thought that any

attempt to gain the anchorage under such unfavourable

circumstances might be attended with the danger of some of the

ships getting on board each other; it was therefore determined to

give up the intention, and the signal was made for that

purpose.

The object for which we endeavoured to get into this bay, was,

a supply of fresh vegetables for the ships companies and

convicts, an article with which we had been but scantily provided

at Teneriffe. Port Praya Bay, on the island of Saint Jago, is

situated in latitude 14° 54' north, and longitude 23° 37'

west. This was about noon of the 20th of June, and we took our

leave of these islands, and steered to the southward, intending

to cross the equator, if possible, two or three° to the

eastward of the meridian of Saint Jago.

We had a fresh gale from the north-east until we were in the

latitude of 10° 30' north; the north-east trade now became

faint and variable, and in 9° 30' north we had frequent

calms, with dark cloudy weather, and heavy showers of rain;

squalls were seen now rising from every part of the horizon, and

appeared to threaten much wind, but they seldom contained any

thing but torrents of rain; the breezes, which were very light,

and were generally from the southward, very much retarded our

progress towards the line. In latitude 8° 30' north, the wind

fixed in the south-west quarter (rather an extraordinary

circumstance in these latitudes) and blew a fresh gale, with

which we stood to the eastward; but as it was generally far

southerly, we were soon in longitude 18° 26' west, by the

time-piece, on which we had more reliance than on the dead

reckoning, for here we found a current setting considerably

strong to the eastward; our lunar observations, which we never

failed to make at every opportunity, constantly confirmed the

truth of the watch.

Finding no prospect of a change of wind by continuing to stand

to the eastward, we tacked in the above longitude, and latitude

6° 48' north, and stood to the westward; for the wind now

appeared fixed between south-west and south, a steady gale with a

large sea from the southward; many of the convoy sailed so heavy,

and were so leewardly, that to gain ground thus circumstanced was

impossible; we had therefore only to hope, that by standing off

to a greater distance from the coast of Africa, we might find the

wind incline to the eastward of south: we, therefore, kept

working in this manner for twelve days, in the course of which

time our dead reckonings were four° to the westward of the

truth, occasioned by the the strong easterly currents; in the

latitude of 4° 30' north, and longitude, by the time-keeper,

19° 40' west, the wind began to incline to the

south-south-east, which gave us some reason to hope that the

south-east trade wind was at no great distance.

It continued wavering between the south by east and south-east

until we had got another degree to the southward, when it settled

at south-east a steady breeze; but the easterly current, which

would now have been an advantage to us by keeping the transports

to windward, had ceased, and we found a strong westerly one

running for several days, from 30 to 45 miles in 24 hours, by

which our account was brought back to its original agreement with

the time-keeper and lunar observations. The greatest velocity of

the westerly current, was between latitude 3° 00' north and

the line, and its direction appeared to have been nearly west,

for we never found our observations for the latitude materially

affected by it; the same was the case with the easterly current,

which may account for the ships from the northward, bound to the

coast of Brazil, who may have no other way of determining their

longitude but by account, scarcely having been sensible of any

current; so very nearly does the westerly set, counteract, in the

passage, that to the eastward.

On the 14th of July, in the evening, we crossed the equator in

longitude 26° 10' west, and with 5° 00' of west

variation. The south-east trade wind now made us ample amends for

the failure of the north-east, for it blew a fresh and steady

breeze from east-south-east to east, which I believe is rather

uncommon when the sun has so great north declination: if the wind

had not favoured us so much, we must have fallen in with the

coast of Brazil, far to the northward, which, with this convoy,

would have been attended with much loss of time, and some degree

of danger; however, with this favourable slant, we carried all

the sail possible, and were enabled to keep at a distance from

the coast, but not so far as to be able to make the island of

Trinidada, which it was Captain Phillip's intention to have done,

had the wind permitted.

We passed its parallel 4° 30' to the westward of it, and

had for several days kept a look out for an island, which the

Portuguese call Ascencao, and is said to lie between Trinidada

and the coast of Brazil; but the existence of which there is much

reason to doubt. We did not see any thing until the 3d of August,

when we made Cape Frio; at 12 o'clock at night we were right

abreast of it, and had it bearing north half west five or six

miles; its longitude, by the time-keeper, is 41° 40' west of

the meridian of Greenwich* and its latitude is 22° 58' south.

This cape is an island distant two or three miles from the main

land; we had very light airs and variable weather between the

Cape and Rio Janeiro, which is a distance of 18 or 20 leagues; we

never approached the shore nearer than five or six miles, at

which distance we had 30 fathoms water over a soft bottom, and at

four leagues distance had 42 and 43 fathoms, with the same soft

ground.

[* It will appear hereafter that we had not the true

rate of the watch, and consequently that the above longitude is

not correct.]

On the 6th of August, a light breeze from the sea carried us

within the islands which lie off the harbour, where we anchored

for the night, with the convoy, in 14 fathoms water, clear soft

ground, the island Raz (a low flat island) bearing south by west

two miles, and Rodondo (a high round island) south-west by south.

The next morning an officer was sent to the town, to wait on the

viceroy, and give him information who we were, and for what

purpose we had visited that port: in the afternoon of the 7th,

with a breeze from the sea, we weighed, and, with the whole

convoy, sailed into the harbour.

As we passed Fort Santa Cruz, we saluted with 13 guns, which

was returned by an equal number from the fort; we anchored off

the town in 17½ fathoms water, over a good soft bottom,

and moored with best bower to the south-east, and the small bower

to the north-west; Fort Santa Cruz south 36° 00' east; the

Sugar Loaf south, 7° 00' east; and the Flag-Staff, on the

Island Cobres, north 78° 00' west, distant from the town one

mile and a half. In going into the harbour, there being very

little wind, some of our convoy were alongside of each other, and

were drifting in with the tide; at which the master of the port,

who was on board the Sirius, expressed much uneasiness; but he

was told our seamen knew very well how to manage their ships, and

that there was no danger: the Portuguese will not allow more than

one of their ships in the narrows at a time.

The ships in general had been remarkably healthy; the whole

number buried since we left England was sixteen, six only of that

number had died between Teneriffe and this place, which certainly

is a very trying part of the voyage to people who have not been

accustomed to warm climates, and being fed wholly on salt

provisions; many of those whom we had lost since we left

Portsmouth, had been lingering under diseases with which they

were afflicted when they embarked; consequently little hope could

be entertained of their recovery in such a situation and under

such circumstances.

On our arrival here, there were but four out of the whole

number in fevers, and a few others with various but trifling

complaints; and between 20 and 30, in whom symptoms of the scurvy

had lately appeared, the seeds of which it was hoped and expected

would be effectually eradicated before we left this place. Fresh

provisions were immediately provided on our arrival, and served

to the ships companies, marines, and convicts; vegetables were

also provided, of which they were to have a proportion served

with their other provisions every day whilst we remained here;

oranges and other tropical fruits were in vast abundance at this

time; the convicts also had a proportion of oranges with their

other provisions, this fruit being in such great plenty, that the

expence attending the purchase of a few for each individual a

day, was too inconsiderable to be noticed. Indeed, it was no

uncommon thing to see the country boats, as they passed the

ships, throw in a shower of oranges amongst the people.

We had not been ten days in this harbour, before we found the

convicts in every ship much more healthy than when we left

Spithead. Much pains had been taken by some (who, from whatever

cause, were averse to the expedition) to make the world believe

that we were, whilst lying at the Mother-Bank, so very sickly as

to bury eight or ten every day; and that a malignant disease

raged with great violence on board the transports: how far those

reports were true, will best appear by the returns which will no

doubt be sent to England from this place. Among such a number of

people confined in small ships, to have no sick on board, was not

to be expected; but the reports spread by some industrious

persons exceedingly exaggerated our numbers. I may, without a

probability of being much mistaken, venture to say, that there

are few country towns in the island of Great-Britain, which

contain 1500 inhabitants, (the number which the ships employed on

this service had on board) which have not frequently as many sick

as we had, at the time it was given out we buried such numbers

daily.

At this place we met with every thing that was civil and

polite; a day or two after our arrival, the whole of the officers

were introduced and paid their respects to the Vice-King, who

seemed desirous of making the place as convenient and pleasant as

possible, consistent with his instructions, relative to

foreigners, from the court of Portugal.

It has ever been a custom here, that when any foreign ships

are in this harbour, a guard boat rows constantly night and day,

and when any boat from such foreign vessel goes on shore, a

soldier is put into the boat, and continues on board her during

her stay on shore: this custom is intended to prevent smuggling,

a crime which is punished here with the utmost severity; and when

any foreign officer lands, an officer from the guard is ordered

to attend him wherever he goes: this restraint, which would

certainly have been very ill relished by us, however necessary it

might have been for our own convenience to have complied with

it--was not even in the beginning offered, but every officer

permitted to walk where he pleased, except in the forts; a

liberty never granted to strangers; nor was any centinel ever

placed in any of the King's boats at landing, not even in those

of the transports; an extraordinary mark of civility and

confidence, and of which every officer in our fleet was perfectly

sensible. But when the masters of the transports went on shore, a

non-commissioned officer from the guard attended them wherever

they went, and their sailors were attended by a private

soldier.

During our stay here, we were permitted to erect a tent on the

island Enchados, (a small island about a mile and a half farther

up the harbour than where we lay with the ships,) for the purpose

of landing a few of the astronomical instruments which were

necessary for ascertaining the rate of the time-keeper; they were

put under the charge and management of Lieutenant William Dawes,

of the marines, a young gentleman very well qualified for such a

business, and who promises fair, if he pursue his studies, to

make a respectable figure in the science of astronomy.

The weather was rather unfavourable, during the time the

instruments were on shore for ascertaining the rate of the

time-keeper, but as constant attention was paid, every

opportunity that offered was made use of, and the watch was found

to be 2"-27. which is near a second more than was its rate at

Portsmouth.

The 21st of August being the anniversary of the Prince of

Brazil's birth-day, at sun-rise in the morning we displayed the

flag of Portugal at the fore top-mast head, and that of our own

nation at the main and mizen: half an hour after ten, the

Vice-King received compliments upon that occasion; all the

officers of our fleet which could be spared from duty on board,

landed, and in a body went to the palace to make their

compliments upon this public day; the viceroy upon this, as well

as upon every other occasion, showed us particular attention. We

were the first company admitted into the levee-room, then the

clergy and military, after which, the civilians and some of the

military promiscuously.

When we entered the room a signal was made from the palace,

and the fort began to fire. Orders had been left with the

commanding officer on board the Sirius, to begin to salute after

the fort had fired two guns, which was particularly attended to,

and a salute of twenty-one guns was given. It is rather uncommon

upon such occasions, for an English ship of war to salute at so

early an hour, but certainly the greatest compliment which we

could at such time pay them, was to observe in this case the

custom practised by their own ships.

On Monday the 3d of September, the watering of the convoy, and

every other part of their refitting being compleated, the signal

was made from the Sirius for every person to repair immediately

on board their respective ships, and at the same time the signal

for unmooring was shown; and on Tuesday morning, with a light

breeze from the land, we weighed with the convoy. When the Sirius

had got within about half a mile of Fort Santa Cruz, that castle

saluted us with 21 guns, which was answered by us with the same

number; a very high and uncommon compliment, and such I believe

as is seldom paid to any foreigner; but was no doubt meant as a

suitable return to the attention paid by his Majesty's ship to

the birth-day of the Prince of Brazil. We carried wind enough out

to run us clear without the islands before night.

The harbour of Rio de Janeiro may be known when you are off

it, by a remarkable hill at its entrance, called Pao d'Asucar,

from its resemblance to a loaf of sugar; but there is a hill to

the south-east of the harbour, which is called by some the False

Sugar-loaf; but which, as you view it from the eastward, I think

has more the appearance of a church, with a short spire steeple;

this hill points out the harbour to ships at a distance, much

better than Pao d'Asucar. The land to the westward of the harbour

is high and broken, and is commonly so covered with clouds, that

you cannot discover the true make of it.

Right off the harbour lie several small islands, all steep to,

or nearly so; a few rocks project a very small distance from some

of them, but which cannot be considered dangerous, as no person

possessed of common prudence would ever take a ship so near as

they lye; within those islands (if you have not wind to carry

your ship into the harbour) you may anchor; the best birth for

getting under way with any wind, is to bring the island Raz (a

low island) to bear south or south half west one mile, in 14 or

15 fathoms water, soft bottom; there is nothing in the way

between this anchorage and the harbour; you will observe in the

entrance a small island or rock, fortified, called Lage; you sail

about mid-channel between this island and Fort Santa Cruz,

observing that the tide of flood sets upon Santa Cruz point, and

the ebb upon the island; the soundings from the outer anchorage

decrease from 14 fathoms, where we lay, regularly, till near

abreast of the Sugar-loaf, where it is six and a half fathoms:

from this depth you drop into 12, 14, and 16 fathoms. Run up, and

anchor off the town in 17 or 18 fathoms, clear soft ground.

CITY OF ST. SEBASTIAN.

Latitude: 22° 54' 13" south

Longitude, deduced from our time-keeper of the meridian of

Greenwich, and which agrees with that laid down in the new

requisite tables, but which certainly are not correct: 42°

44' 00" west.

Longitude, determined by two astronomers sent from Portugal

for that and other purposes: 43° 18' 45" west.

Longitude, by an eclipse of Jupiter's third satellite, taken

by Lieutenant Dawes, on the island Enchados: 43° 19' 00"

west.

Longitude, by a mean of several distances of sun and moon

taken by me at the outer anchorage: 43° 11' 15" west.

Longitude, by Lieutenant Bradley: 43° 33' 00" west.

The tide flows here at full and change of the moon, north-east

by north and south-west by south, and rises between six and seven

feet.

The harbour is very extensive and commodious; there are many

convenient bays in it, where a vast many ships may be laid up in

perfect security from any bad weather. The town is large, well

built, and populous, but ill situated for the health of its

inhabitants: it stands upon low ground, which was formerly

swampy, and is surrounded with hills of immense height, which

entirely exclude the benefit of the refreshing sea and land

breezes; so that in the summer time, it is really suffocating

hot, and of course very unhealthy. The streets, some few of them,

are pretty wide, the others in general rather narrow, and mostly

intersect each other at right-angles. The square, or parade,

opposite to which the boats land, is large, and the buildings

round it are good, and on the south side of this square stands

the viceroy's palace. The churches are very good buildings, and

their decorations exceedingly rich, and they seem to have

excellent organs in them; all those which I saw here, as well as

at Teneriffe, had what in a large church I conceive to be a

considerable improvement, and it is what I never have seen

applied to any of our organs, even in the largest churches in

England; each pipe of the organ has a tube which projects from

its lower part in a horizontal direction, and is wide at the

outer end, like a trumpet: these tubes throw every note

distinctly into the church, and prevent, what I have frequently

observed, in many of our organs, some of the tones being almost

lost in the body of the instrument.

I observed here, that the different mechanics carry on their

business in distinct parts of the town, particular streets being

set apart for particular trades; you find one street filled with

taylors, another with shoemakers, a third with carpenters,

etc. etc.

As far as numerous forts and guns can be said to give strength

to any place, the city of Saint Sebastian may be considered as

strong; the island of Cobres, which overlooks and lies close to

the town, has a strong work upon it, the east end of it is rather

low, and there is good depth of water off it, so that ships of

very large size may come very near in, and there are many hills

very near, which command the town and most of the works which

defend it.

The annual exports from Rio de Janeiro are, 3,200 arobes of

gold, which are sent to Portugal, and of which the King has a

tenth part; 6,000 cases of sugar, each weighing 40 arobes; 5,000

cases of rice, and 1,500 casks of rum, each cask containing eight

almudas*.

[* An arobe is thirty-two pounds; an almuda, four

gallons and a half.]

Before we left this port, we took on board the following seeds

and plants, viz.

Coffee plant and seed, cocoa-seed, jalap, ipecacuhana,

tamarind, banana, orange, lime, and lemon-trees, guava seed,

prickly pear, with the cochineal in seed upon it, pomrose, grape,

tobacco, and rice for seed.

[A TABLE of the WINDS and WEATHER, etc. etc. in the Passage

from the Island of Teneriffe to Rio de Janeiro, Coast of Brazil,

on board His Majesty's Ship SIRIUS.]

[The table is included in the HTML version]