which is one of the finest in all America, and one of the best laid out
cities in the world. It is the capital of Pennsylvania, and, were it
full of houses and inhabitants, according to the proprietor's plan, it
would be a capital fit for a great empire; yet it is a large city,
considering its late foundation, most commodiously situated between two
navigable rivers, the Delaware and Schuylkill. He designed the town in
form of an oblong square, extending two miles in length from one river to
the other. The long streets, eight in number, and two miles in length,
he cut in right angles by others of one mile in length, and sixteen in
number, all straight and spacious. He left proper spaces for markets,
parades, quays, meeting-houses, schools, hospitals, and other public
buildings. There are a great number of houses, and it increases every
day in buildings, which are all carried on regularly, according to the
first plan. The city has two fronts on the water, one on the east side
facing to Schuylkill, and the other on the west, facing the Delaware,
which is near two miles broad, and navigable three hundred miles, at
least for small vessels. The eastern part is the most populous, on
account of the Schuylkill, which is navigable eight hundred miles above
the falls. We have observed, that each front of the street was to be two
miles from river to river, as it was at first laid out; but one cannot
suppose that it is finished in that manner. The streets that run against
the Schuylkill are three quarters of a mile in length; the houses are
stately, the wharfs and warehouses numerous and convenient. This city
flourished so much at first, that there were near a hundred houses, great
and small in it, in less than a year's time; and it has made answerable
progress since that period; the number of houses, at this time, being
about two thousand, and, generally speaking, better edifices than in the
cities of England, a few excepted, and those only in a few streets. All
the houses have large orchards and gardens belonging to them; the land on
which the city stands is high and firm, and the convenience of covered
docks and springs have very much contributed to the commerce of this
place, where many rich merchants now reside, some of whom are so wealthy
that they keep their coaches. Ships may ride in six or seven fathoms
water, with a very good anchorage; the land about it is a dry wholesome
level. All owners of one thousand acres and upwards have their houses in
the two fronts, facing the rivers, and in the High-street, running from
the middle of one front to the middle of the other. Every owner of one
thousand acres has about an acre in front, and the smaller purchasers
about half an acre in the back streets, by which means the least has room
enough for a house-garden and small orchard. High-street is a hundred
feet broad, so is Broad-street, which is in the middle of the city,
running from north to south. In the centre is a square of ten acres, for
the state-house, market-house, and school-house, as before hinted. The
names of the streets here denote the several sorts of timber that are
common in Pennsylvania, as Mulberry-street, Sassafras-street,
Chesnut-street, Walnut-street, Beech-street, Ash-street, Vine-street,
Cedar-street. There are also King-street, Broad-street, High-street.
Their court-house is built of brick, and under it is a prison: several
houses on the quay are worth four or five thousand pounds; and thirteen
ships have been on the stocks at a time: some hundreds have been built
there. The cellars and warehouses, on the quay, are made over the river
three stories high. Here are two fairs in a year, and two markets in a
week. It sends two members to the assembly.
The inhabitants were at first mostly quakers, and so they continue. It
was some time before there was a church built after the manner of
England; but as soon as one was built, it was called Christchurch. It
had, in a few years, a very numerous congregation, and King William
ordered an allowance of fifty-three pounds a-year to the minister; which,
with voluntary contributions, made a very handsome provision for him.
There are about twelve hundred of the inhabitants that are of this
congregation, who have for some years had the benefit of the organ; and
though it looked and sounded strange to the quakers at first, yet they
are now so far reconciled to it, as to bear with their neighbours having
it without grumbling. There are, besides this, several meeting-houses;
viz., for the quakers, who are properly the church as by law established,
being the originals; the presbyterians, the baptists, and a Spanish
church.
According to the plan, there is in each quarter of the city a square of
eight acres, intended for the same uses as were Moorfields in
London--walks and exercises for the citizens. The great dock is formed
by an inlet of the river Delaware, at the south corner of the front of
the wharfs, and has a bridge over it at the entrance: several creeks run
into the city out of the two rivers; and there is no city in Holland that
is so naturally accommodated with fine and commodious canals, as this
might very easily be. The quay is beautiful, about two hundred feet
square, to which a ship of five hundred tons may lay her broadside; and,
as these surprising advantages have already rendered it one of the best
trading towns in the British empire out of Europe, so in all probability
it will continue to increase in commerce, riches, and buildings, till for
number and magnificence it will have no equal in America; where the
French have not, nor are likely to have, any thing like it. Here are
almost all sorts of trades and mechanics, as well as merchants and
planters. Here the assemblies and courts of judicature are held, and the
business of the province is chiefly managed, as in all capitals. Here
are printing-houses, and several newspapers published. In a word, here
are all things necessary for an Englishman's profit and pleasure.
Mr. Carew, walking through the High-street, had a mind to refresh himself
with a nip of punch; the first public house he chanced to come to was
kept by an Irishman, and asking him if he sold punch, Yes, my dear honey,
replied the man. Arrah, says Mr. Carew, are you my countryman, dear joy?
quite in the Irish brogue. Yes, replied the man: What, do you belong to
one of our vessels?--No, but I belong to Captain Dubois, of Dublin, who
was taken off the Capes, and carried into the Havannah.--Arrah, dear joy,
I know Captain Dubois very well, replied the Irishman, come in.
Accordingly in went Mr. Carew: the Irishman was so well pleased with his
countryman, (for, giving a very particular account of many places in
Ireland, and counterfeiting the brogue extremely well, he did not suspect
him to be any other,) that he entertained him kindly, and they passed the
day merrily together.
The next morning his host takes him out to see the city: Mr. Carew did
not content himself with idly gazing, as most of our modern travellers
do; but diligently inquired the names of the principal merchants and
places, and informed himself of all those circumstances, which could be
of any service to him. At length, seeing a very fine house, he inquired
whose it was; and being told Proprietor Penn's, who was just come from
England with his brother-in-law, Captain Frame, he takes leave of his
host, telling him he had a little business to transact, and would be at
home presently, for he should be able to find his way back without his
staying for him.--Having thus got rid of the Irishman, he claps his right
hand into his coat, as if he had lost the use of it; and then, going up
to the proprietor's, knocks at the door, which was opened to him by a
negro, with a silver collar round his neck: he inquired if the proprietor
lived there, and if he was at home: being told he was, Pray tell him,
says he, that a poor man desires the favour of speaking with him. The
negro then bid him come into the court: soon after, out came the
proprietor, very plainly dressed, and his brother, Captain Frame, in his
regimentals. The proprietor came up to him, inquiring who he was, and
what he wanted with him: he replied he was a poor unfortunate man, who
craved his honour's charitable assistance: that his name was John
Dawkins, of the city of Exeter; and that he belonged to Captain Davis's
ship of that place, who was taken near the Capes. Captain Frame, seeing
him a lusty tall fellow, presently cries out, revenge! revenge! my brave
boy! you shall go along with me, and fight the dogs! Mr. Carew replied
with a sigh, that he should be glad to do that, but that, it was his
misfortune, by the severities and hardships in prison, to have lost the
use of his right arm by the dead palsy. This moved their compassion so
much, that each of them gave him a guinea; the proprietor telling him he
would take care to send him home with Captain Read, who would sail, very
soon; then asking him if he had been at the governor's, and he replying
in the negative, the proprietor told him he should go there, for he was a
very good-natured man, and would assist him; then calling to the black,
he bid him show the poor man to the governor's. As they were going
along, he informed himself of the black what countryman the governor was;
and being told a Welshman, and his name Thomas, he took care to make his
advantage of it. When he came to the governor's and inquired for him, he
was told he was walking in the garden; while he was waiting for his
coming out, in came the proprietor and his brother; and, going into the
garden, they represented his case to the governor, who, coming in,
inquired where he was born, &c.; he told him, as he had before done the
proprietor, and added, that he had married Betty Larkey, parson Griffy's
maid, of Wales, and that the parson had a son at Bishop's Nympton, in
Devon: the governor replied he knew the parson very well, and likewise
Betty Larkey; and after he had asked him some questions about them, which
Mr. Carew answered very readily, he gave him two guineas.
In this manner did he apply to the most of the principal merchants of
Philadelphia, always suiting some circumstances of his story in
particular to the person he applied to; which he did, by diligently
inquiring what places they came from in England, who were their friends
and acquaintance, and the like, which he knew how to suit most to his
purpose.
Captain Read being now ready to sail, and Mr. Carew having a curiosity of
seeing more of the country, he thought proper to leave Philadelphia
without taking leave of any of his good friends there. From this place
he went into Buckingham county, where he inquired for one George Boon, a
justice of the peace in that county, who formerly lived at Bradnich, in
Devon, his father being a weaver there. Here he went by his own name,
telling him, he had been taken prisoner, and carried into the Havannah,
where he had lain many months. The justice having known his father very
well, entertained him generously, showed him the country, and gave him
three guineas at his departure, to help to pay his passage.
From thence he went to Burlington, the first town in West New-Jersey,
which contains about two hundred and fifty families, and has an
answerable number of acres laid out for plantations. The houses are well
built, and almost all of brick. The market affords plenty of all sorts
of provisions, which are as good here as any where in America.
From thence to Perth Amboy, so called in honour of the Duke of Perth. It
is at the mouth of the Rantan, which runs into Sandyhook bay, and is able
to contain five hundred ships. The plan of this city was laid out very
regularly and spaciously. The plot of ground was divided into one
hundred and fifty shares, for purchasers to build upon. Four acres are
preserved for a market-place, and three for public wharfage--very useful
things, if there had been inhabitants, trade, and shipping. The town
being thus skilfully and commodiously laid out, some Scots began
building, especially a house for the governor, which was then as little
wanted as a wharf or a market. The whole plan of the city consists of
one thousand and seventy-nine acres, and there are two good roads from it
to Piscataqua and Woodbridge. Ships in one tide can come up to the port,
and be at the merchants' doors, though of three hundred tons burden; but
the Perth city has not above two or three hundred men, women, and
children.
From thence over a ferry, into a town called Trent-town, in
Staten-island; and from thence over Brunswick ferry to East Jersey, where
he found out a Mr. Matthews, a miller, who formerly lived at Whitechurch,
near Lime, in Dorset; and, making use of his old story of having been
taken, he was received by Mr. Matthews with great hospitality; he kept
him three days in his house, and would have entertained him still longer.
At his departure he gave him a guinea, with several letters of
recommendation, and remitted letters by him to his friends in England,
sending his servant with him as far as Elizabeth town, which is three
miles within a creek opposite to the west end of Staten-island. Here the
first English settlement was made, and if any place in the Jerseys may be
said to have thriven, it is this; for, notwithstanding the endeavours of
the proprietors to make a capital of Perth, by calling it a city,
Elizabeth town has near six times the number of inhabitants, containing
above two hundred and fifty families, and forty thousand acres of land
laid out. Here the proprietors have a plantation, which goes by the name
of their farm. The government of the province is here managed, courts
are kept, assemblies held, and the greatest part of the trade of the
colony carried on. Here he met with one Mr. Nicholas, a Cornish man, who
gave him a ten-shilling bill, and recommended him to one Mr. Anderson, in
Long-island, sometimes called Nassau-island, stretching from Fairfield
county, in a fine spot of ground, one hundred and fifty miles in length,
and twenty in breadth. Here he changed his religion, and turned
Presbyterian, most of the inhabitants being of that denomination: he
travelled quite through the island, and then crossed over a ferry into
Block-island, from whence there are great quantities of timber
transported to the town of Boston.
Soon after, crossing another ferry, he came into New York, which is a
very fine city. There are now about one thousand one hundred houses, and
near seven thousand inhabitants in it. The houses are well built, the
meanest of them is said to be worth one hundred pounds, which cannot be
said of any city in England. The great church here was built in the year
1695, and is a very handsome edifice. Here are also a Dutch church, a
French church, and a Lutheran church. The inhabitants of the Dutch
extraction make a very considerable part of the town; but, most of them
speaking English, one may suppose they went pretty much to the great
church, especially all those that are and hope to be in offices. Here he
was surprised at the sight of a great number of gibbets, with blacks
hanging upon them; but, upon inquiring, he found the negroes had not long
before entered into a conspiracy for burning the whole city; however, the
plot being timely discovered, great numbers were executed and hung up to
terrify others. His first care here was to inquire the names,
circumstances, families, and countries, of the principal inhabitants of
the city; amongst the rest he inquired out Captain Lush, who was formerly
of Carmouth, by Lime, in Dorsetshire, to whom he had recommendatory
letters from Mr. Matthews, of East Jersey. He was received very
hospitably by Captain Lush, who likewise gave him two shirts, and
informed him, there was no ship ready to sail for England there, but that
he would find one at New London. Having found there was one Mr. Lucas,
formerly of Taunton, in Somersetshire, in New York, and judging he was
brother to Mr. Lucas, of Brampton, in Devon, whom he knew very well, he
went boldly to his house, which was in the fish-shambles, and knocking at
the door, it was opened to him by a negro; he enquired if Mr. Lucas was
at home; and, before the negro could give him an answer, out came Mr.
Lucas with a little boy, and demanded what he wanted: he replied he was
an Englishman, born in Devonshire, who had the misfortune to be cast away
in a ship behind Long-island, and hearing his name was Lucas, he had made
bold to apply to him for his assistance, as he was very well acquainted
with his brother, Mr. Lucas, of Brampton. Mr. Lucas asked him, if he
could tell him whom his brother married; he replied, Mrs. Mary Tristam.
Do you know Huntsham? Yes, replied he, and Mr. Beer, who first courted
Mrs. Tristam. And how many children has my brother? To this likewise
Mr. Carew answered very exactly; and Mr. Lucas, being convinced by this
of his being no imposter, bid him come in, telling him, he expected his
youngest brother there in three weeks time. He was entertained here very
generously, and at his departure Mr. Lucas gave him two guineas.
From thence he went through Seabrake and Seaford to New London, which is
situated on a river called the Thames. The first branch of which river
goes by the name of Glass river, the next branch by that of Russel's
Delight, and the third by that of Indian river. There is a small river
which falls into the sea at Manchester. The trade of ship building
flourishes here. He now inquired if there were none of the name of Davy
in that city; and being asked why, he replied, they were near heirs to a
fine estate near Crediton in Devon, formerly belonging to Sir John Davy.
He was then shown to two ancient sisters of Sir John Davy, whose sons
were timbermen: they asked a great many questions about the family, and
he told them that Sir John Davy was dead, and his eldest son also, who
had left two sons; that the youngest brother, Humphrey Davy, was then
living at Creedy-house, and the little boys somewhere about Exeter. Then
they gave him two letters to give to Mr. Humphrey Davy; after which, each
gave him a guinea, with recommendations to one Justice Miller and Captain
Rogers, who was bound for England. Justice Miller received him very
kindly, with whom he agreed to take a run to England for ten gallons of
rum, ten pounds of sugar, ten pounds of tobacco, and ten pipes.
Captain Rogers having taken in his lading, which consisted of rice,
tobacco, and pipe staves, set sail with a fair wind from New London, and
run to Lundy in a month and three days. Nothing happened material on
their voyage, and the sailors passed this time very joyfully, having so
favourable a gale; but our hero, who knew that fortune, like a common
jilt, often puts on the fairest smiles when she is about to discard you,
thought it prudent to provide against her slippery tricks as much as lay
in his power; he therefore pricked his arms and breast with a needle, and
then rubbed it with bay salt and gunpowder, which made it appear like the
small-pox coming out; in the night-time he groaned very dismally, till at
length the captain called to him to know the reason of his groaning so in
his sleep. Alas! Sir, replied he, I have been dreaming my poor wife was
dead, and that she died of the small-pox. Be of good cheer, man, says
the captain, dreams are but fables; and, for your comfort, I believe we
shall quickly make land: however, they did not do this as soon as the
captain expected; for, towards the next evening, the wind springing up a
fresh gale, the captain ordered to stand out to sea again: during all the
day, Mr. Carew did not stir out of his hammock, pretending to be very
ill. Towards the morning, the wind was somewhat laid, and they stood in
before it; but it being very hazy weather, the captain ordered a good
look-out, crying, my brave boys, take care we don't run foul of some
ship, for we are now in the channel. The men replied, all is well.
Now the cocks began to crow on board, and Sol took his last embrace of
Thetis, to begin his daily stage; for, indeed, already had his equipage
waited near an hour for him. Reader, if thou art acquainted with the
inimitable history of Tom Jones, thou mayest perhaps know what is meant
by this; but, lest thou shouldest not, we think it not improper to inform
thee, that we mean no more than what we might have told thee in three
words, that it was broad day-light. The captain called out, how goes the
glass, my brave boys? Eight glasses are just run, replied the men; then
look out sharp for land. Soon after, the cabin boy hallooing out, land,
land! the captain ran nimbly to see if it was so, saying, I am afraid we
are embayed. No, replied the mate, I will be bound for it, it is
Lundy-island. The captain ran up immediately to the main-topmast head,
to look out for other lands to the right and left, and found it to be
indeed Lundy-island; upon which several sailors ran up the rigging, and,
among the rest, Mr. Carew creeps out with nothing but a blanket upon his
shoulders, and makes an attempt to run up the rigging; which the captain
seeing, he hastily cries out, where is old John going? take care of the
old man, he is light-headed: upon which, some of the sailors took him
down, and carried him back to his hammock. They then crowded all the
sail they could for Lundy. When they came near, they perceived several
ships laying at anchor there, and made a signal for a pilot. Soon after
comes up a pilot of Clovelly, who was then upon the island, waiting to
pilot ships up to Bristol. The captain welcomed him on board, and agreed
for seven guineas to be pilotted up to Bristol: then the captain asked
him what news, and if any New-England men were gone up the channel? He
replied, that none had passed, but that he could inform him of bad news
for his men, which was, the Ruby man-of-war, Captain Goodyre, lay then in
King-road, and pressed all the men he could lay hold of. Mr. Carew,
hearing this, immediately comes upon deck, with his blanket upon his
shoulders, and pretended to vomit over the ship's side. The pilot,
observing him, asked what was the matter with the old man. I believe,
replies the captain, he has got the small-pox; he dreamed the other night
that his wife was dead of them, which frightened him so much, that I
think the small-pox is come out upon him. The pilot then stepped up and
asked him to let him look upon him, which he complying with, and showing
him his arms, the pilot swore he had got the small-pox heavily upon him,
and Mr. Carew kept on groaning very mournfully. They then sailed by
Appledore, Biddeford, and Barnstaple, (where Mr. Carew, notwithstanding
his having the small-pox so heavily, wished himself on shore, drinking
some of their fat ale,) so to the Holmes, and into King-road early in the
morning. He then thought it advisable to take a pretty large quantity of
warm water into his belly, and soon after, to their concern, they saw the
Ruby man-of-war lying in the road, with jack, ensign, and pendant
hoisted.
Now were all the sailors, who had been so jovial before, struck with a
dreadful panic; but our hero, secure of the favour and protection of the
goddess prudence, was quite easy at heart.--Soon they perceived the man
of war's boat making towards them, upon which Mr. Carew grew sicker and
sicker: the captain ordered the ropes to be flung out for a man-of-war's
boat, and the stanchions and red ropes to be got ready for the
lieutenant, as though they had been to receive some good visitor on
board; such are the polished arts of the world; for we think we may
venture to say, that both the captain and the crew, at the time they were
making these preparations to receive the lieutenant, had rather have seen
him gone to the bottom of the sea, than come on board their vessel. At
length the man-of-war's boat came along side of the ship, when Mr. Carew
went down into the steerage with his belly full of hot water, and the
lieutenant came on board. Sir, you are welcome on board, says the
captain; or, rather, that little part of the captain called the tongue;
for the heart, mind, and every other particle, of the captain wished him
at the d---l at the same time. The lieutenant inquired from whence they
came and what passage. The captain replied, from Boston, in a month and
four days; and then asked him to walk aft, and take a drop of rum; but,
before he did so, the lieutenant asked how many hands there were on
board. The captain answered, he had only fifteen, for men were very
scarce. Of what burden is your ship?--Two hundred and fifty tons. I
must have your hands, sir, said the lieutenant: come in, barge crew, and
do your duty. No sooner were the words spoken, than the crew leaped upon
the deck, and the lieutenant ordered all the ship's company aft, saying
he wanted to talk with them. He then accosted them with an oratorial
harangue: "Gentlemen sailors," said he, "I make no doubt but you are
willing to enter voluntarily, and not as pressed men; if you go like
brave men, freely, when you come round to Plymouth and Portsmouth, and
get on board your respective ships, you will have your bounty money, and
liberty to go on shore and kiss your landladies." Though this oration
was pronounced with as much self-applause as Cicero felt when, by the
force of his eloquence, he made Caesar the master of the world to
tremble; or as the vehement Demosthenes, when used to thunder against
king Philip; yet we are not quite certain whether it was the power of
eloquence alone persuaded the men to enter voluntarily, or whether being
seated between the two rocks of Scylla and Charybdis, it was indifferent
to them which they dashed upon; however this was, all but one of them
entered (though with sad hearts) without being pressed, which we make no
doubt the lieutenant attributed to the eloquence of his oration.