THE PLANT BOTANICALLY CONSIDERED.
The Linnæan system of Botany classifies the Tea plant with the
_Polyandria_, and of the order _Monogynia_. What is styled the “Natural
System” associates it with the family of the Camellia. The Tea plant,
which is an evergreen, grows to the height of five or six feet. The
leaves are about an inch and a half long, being narrow, indented, and
tapering to a point, similar to those of the sweetbriar. The colour
is a dark green. The root is like that of the peach-tree, while the
flowers resemble the wild rose. A number of irregular branches issue
from the stem. The fruit is small, containing round blackish seeds,
about the size of a bean. The shrub must have at least a three years’
growth before it is fit for being plucked. This valuable plant is
largely cultivated not only in China but also in India, Japan, and the
Eastern Archipelago. There are two primary kinds of Tea, namely the
_Thea viridis_, or green shrub, and the _Thea Bohea_, or black plant.
The former delights in elevated situations and a temperate climate;
the latter requires the protection of valleys, the sloping sides of
mountains, and the banks of rivers, with a more tropical sun. To the
situations and the temperatures the delicate flavour of the green and
the greater astringency of the black Tea, are mainly due.
In England, at one period, all descriptions of black Tea were
denominated _Bohea_. It is known, however, that this particular title
belongs exclusively to inferior varieties, and in no way includes
such superior products as Congou, Souchong, Pekoe, and I may add
Caper, which is regarded as a fancy growth, and never imported into
this country, unless adulterated. Of the green Teas, the commonest
and cheapest is Twankay, the finest sort being Hyson, which comprises
Young Hyson and Gunpowder. There are a number of intermediate and less
known varieties, to which must be added the fine growths of Assam
and other provinces of British India. The Tea plant may be cultivated
with more or less success in climates within 35° or 40° of the Equator.
Some writers affirm that so long as the temperature be suitable,
the character of the soil is of little importance. Others, on the
contrary, assert that Tea will grow in any part of China or India, even
much further north than I have mentioned. The balance of experience,
however, is against them.
[Illustration: WEIGHING.--This illustration is from a photograph,
showing the manner of weighing tea, and payment of wages. The leaf is
subsequently prepared by firing.]
As regards the quality of Tea, this must depend not only on its variety
and growth, but also on the time during which the leaves are gathered.
Directly the refreshing spring showers have passed off, and a gracious
sunshine succeeds, which, aided by drying winds, chases away each
leaflet’s tears, the Tea harvesting season commences with vigour.
Hundreds, and occasionally thousands, of little merry leaf-gatherers
may be seen sallying forth at early morning to their pleasant labour,
singing, laughing, prattling, and dancing as they go. Then when the
mid-day gong sounds, work ceases for the nonce, when these pretty,
black-eyed, dark-haired damsels squat in groups among the bushes,
while they partake of their frugal meal of rice, moistened by copious
draughts of hot weak Tea. Immense care is necessary in order to protect
the delicate young leaf from injury. As a rule, the girls employed
undergo a species of training to prepare them for their work. Not only
so, but while engaged in plucking the flowery Pekoe they wear gloves
of perfumed leather. Every leaf has to be plucked separately. Still
so expert are the pluckers that an average gathering would amount to
twelve pounds weight daily for each person. There are three seasons.
The first commences at the end of February, or the beginning of March;
the second about the end of March, or the first week of April; third
at the end of May, or in June. The earliest leaves constitute the most
exquisite and expensive teas; while the second crop forms the largest
proportion of the entire produce.
The best description is the produce of the early spring when the leaves
are young and small. But many growers, for the sake of increased
quantity, prefer gathering the leaves later in the season, when they
are not simply larger, heavier, and more numerous, but when they have
lost much of their pristine flavour. Of course, only experts, who
devote their lives to the work, can distinguish the difference between
the various growths of early spring or late autumn. Consequently, the
ordinary consumer of Tea is compelled to trust to the integrity of the
particular retailer from whom he procures this commodity. But as the
majority of retail grocers do not profess to know the true value of
Tea, it follows that they in their turn, have to place implicit trust
in the better judgment of the wholesale dealer, commercial traveller,
or middle man with whom they do business.
Tracing the history of Tea to a very early period, we find that
complaints of adulteration were very prevalent. In England the chief
deception practised, consisted in the admixture of sloe and other
leaves with the genuine article. The re-drying of leaves that had been
already used was a malpractice equally as disgraceful. The Tea so
tampered with was little better than a mass of woody fibre, destitute
of those chemical properties upon the presence of which the value and
virtue of this tropical beverage depend. More mischievous still was
the practice adopted some time since by which an ingenious mixture of
sumach leaves and catechu was made to resemble Tea, so that ordinary
persons could not detect the counterfeit. Yet, notwithstanding the
last-mentioned substance, from its powerfully astringent action on
the system, was calculated to induce serious mischief to health, this
objectionable compound was literally sold under the protection of a
patent, and was known in the trade as “La Veno Beno, the Chinese Tea
Improver.” The public, however, heard nothing of this impudent fraud,
until after the scheme succeeded and all the mischief had been done.
Bad as are the adulterations of the leaf practised in this country,
those adopted by the Chinese are even worse. Not very long since, much
commotion was created respecting “Lie Tea,” which was thrust in the
market. This “base presentment” consisted either wholly, or in great
part, of leaves which had no affiliation whatever to the Tea plant, but
consisted of leaves and weeds gathered anyhow, then rolled and dried,
and artificially flavoured so as to resemble the genuine article. With
reference to what is called green Tea, the system frequently pursued in
its preparation is highly reprehensible. The Green Teas sold in England
are usually artificially coloured in order to enamour the eye of the
unsuspecting purchaser. The principal medium employed in effecting this
result is none other than Prussian blue, a deadly poison, and inimical
to health even in the minutest quantity. According to Mr. Fortune, no
less a proportion than half-a-pound is used to every hundred weight of
leaf.
Although botanists have divided Tea into two species, still the black
and green descriptions are but varieties of the same plant. Practically
it is found more convenient to cultivate each sort separately, certain
districts favouring the specific growths. But any description of black
Tea can, in the process of drying, be converted into green. Of course
the Chinese never touch these artificially-coloured products. They have
too much good sense for that. While they consider the English fools for
their pains, inasmuch as the pretty colour tickles their fancy, and
they are induced to pay a higher price for the sophisticated commodity.
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