The guide-books abound with architectural details of the Ranelagh

Rotunda.[217] A sufficient idea of its general appearance may be gained

by glancing at some of the contemporary prints and by noticing a few

salient features. Writers of the time compare it to “the Pantheon at

Rome”: the Londoner of to-day will think rather of the British Museum

Reading Room which it resembled in size and, to some extent, in general

appearance. The circumference was 555 feet and the internal diameter

150 feet. It was entered by four Doric porticoes opposite one another,

and the interior architecture corresponded with the exterior.

On the exterior was an arcade encircling the building, and above this

arcade was a gallery reached by steps placed at the porticoes.

In the interior was a circle of fifty-two[218] boxes, separated by

wainscotting. Each box had its “droll painting” and its bell-lamp with

candles; and in each seven or eight people could be accommodated with

refreshments. Benches covered with red baize were dispersed about the

area, and the plaster floor was covered with matting.

Above the circle of boxes was a gallery containing a similar range of

boxes which were entered by folding-doors from the gallery outside

the building. The Rotunda was lighted by sixty windows, and the chief

material used in its construction was wood.

The ceiling was painted an olive colour, with a rainbow round the

extremity, and there hung from it numerous chandeliers, each ornamented

with a gilt crown and containing crystal bell-lamps of candles. When

all the candles were lighted, the sight, we are told, was “very

glorious.”

In the centre of the building was a remarkable square erection

supporting the roof, and made up of pillars and arches elaborately

decorated. This “grand and elegant structure” was nothing more or less

than a fireplace containing a chimney and an open fire. On cold days in

February and March the best place was “one of the hot blazing red-cloth

benches” by the fire. This fireplace structure had originally contained

the orchestra, but after a few years the orchestra was, for acoustic

reasons, moved to the side of the Rotunda. Behind the orchestra was an

organ by Byfield, set up in 1746.[219]

[Illustration:

_The Inside View of the Rotunda in Renelagh Gardens with the

Company at Breakfast._

_Vue de la Compagnie à Dejeuner dans la Rotonde au

Mellieux des Jardines de Renelagh._

THE ROTUNDA AT RENELAGH, _circ._ 1751.]

Johnson declared that “the _coup d’œil_” of Ranelagh was “the

finest thing he had ever seen.”[220] When Johnson first entered

Ranelagh and its brilliant circle, it gave, as he told Boswell,[221]

“an expansion and gay sensation” to his mind, such as he had never

experienced anywhere else. Miss Lydia Melford, in _Humphry

Clinker_, wrote about Ranelagh to her ‘dear Willis’ with an

enthusiasm less restrained, and without Dr. Johnson’s moralising

comment:--“Alas, Sir, these are only _struggles_ for happiness.”

“Ranelagh (she writes) looks like the enchanted palace of a genio,

adorned with the most exquisite performances of painting, carving, and

gilding, enlightened with a thousand golden lamps that emulate the

noonday sun; crowded with the great, the rich, the gay, the happy and

the fair; glittering with cloth of gold and silver, lace, embroidery,

and precious stones. While these exulting sons and daughters of

felicity tread this round of pleasure, or regale in different parties,

and separate lodges, with fine imperial tea and other delicious

refreshments, their ears are entertained with the most ravishing

delights of music, both instrumental and vocal.”

§ 3. _The entertainments and the company._

The usual charge for admission was half a crown,[222] which always

included the ‘regale’ of tea, coffee and bread and butter. Foote called

Ranelagh the Bread and Butter Manufactory, and, except on ball nights,

no other refreshments seem to have been procurable.

The place was usually open on three days in the week, Mondays,

Wednesdays and Fridays.[223] The regular season for the evening

concerts and garden-promenade began at Easter, but the Rotunda was

often open in February, or earlier, for the dances. In the early days

of Ranelagh the public breakfastings and the morning concerts at twelve

were a constant feature. About 1754 the proprietors of Ranelagh were

refused a license for music, and the breakfasting took place that year

without concerts: these breakfasts and morning concerts do not appear

to have been subsequently renewed.

The evening concerts (from May 1742, onwards) generally began, at 6.30

or 7. Between the Acts the company walked in the gardens to the music

of horns and clarinets, and a garden-orchestra was erected about 1764.

The gardens were illuminated, but fireworks did not become a prominent

feature till about 1767.

The gardens themselves were somewhat formally laid out. There were

several gravel walks, shaded by elms and yews; a flower-garden, and “a

beautiful octagon grass plat.” The principal walk led from the south

end of Ranelagh House to the bottom of the gardens, where there was

a circular Temple of Pan. At night the walks were prettily lit with

lamps attached to the trees. There was also a canal with a Temple

indifferently described as the Chinese House and the Venetian Temple.

[Illustration: _The Chinese House, the Rotunda, & the Company

in Masquerade in RENELAGH GARDENS_]

In its earliest as well as in its latest days masquerades attracted

many to the Rotunda and the gardens, but the chief diversion was the

promenade in the Rotunda. A guide-book of 1793 states that “walking

round the Rotundo” was “one of the pleasures of the place.” We hear

much at all periods of “the circular labour” of the company

and “the ring of folly.”[224] Matthew Bramble found one half of the

company “following one another’s tails in an eternal circle like

asses in an olive mill while the other half are drinking hot water

under the denomination of tea.” Mr. Bramble exacted much from places

of amusement, but it is to be suspected from other testimonies that

there was an atmosphere of dulness, a note of ennui, about the

ordinary diversions of this fashionable rendezvous. “There’s your

famous Ranelagh (says ‘Evelina’) that you make such a fuss about; why

what a dull place is that!” A Frenchman describing Ranelagh about

1800--foreigners were always expected to visit it--calls it “le plus

insipide lieu d’amusement que l’on ait pu imaginer,” and even hints at

Dante’s Purgatory. Another Frenchman writing much earlier, _circ._

1749, briefly comments “on s’ennuie avec de la mauvaise musique, du thé

et du beurre.”

Samuel Rogers (_Table Talk_), who must have known Ranelagh from

about 1786 till its close, was struck by the solemnity of the whole

thing: “all was so orderly and still that you could hear the whishing

sound of the ladies’ trains as the immense assembly walked round and

round the room.” An “affray” of the kind familiar at Vauxhall and

not infrequent at Marylebone was practically unknown at Ranelagh. On

May 6th, 1752, Dr. John Hill was caned in the Rotunda by an angry

gentleman, and the newspapers and caricaturists were momentarily

excited, chiefly because Hill’s injuries were supposed to be a sham.

One almost welcomes a scene at Ranelagh. On the 12th of May, 1764, four

footmen were charged before Sir John Fielding with riotous behaviour at

Ranelagh House, “hissing several of the nobility, relative to their not

giving or suffering vails to be taken, pelting several gentlemen with

brick-bats and breaking the windows.”[225]

Throughout its career of more than a hundred and sixty years, Ranelagh

fairly maintained its position as a fashionable resort, but at all

periods the company was a good deal mixed. Philomides, “a gentleman

of sprightly wit, and very solid judgment,” has described[226] the

frequenters of the place four or five years after it was first opened.

My Lord (he says) was sure to meet his tailor there, and Statira would

see her toyman “cursing himself for letting this Statira have a service

of very fine Dresden china, which she assured him her Lord would pay

for immediately.” The ubiquitous Templar was easily recognised--a

pert young fellow in a fustian frock, and a broad-brimmed hat “in an

affected impudent cock.” There was an Oxford scholar, a political

pamphleteer and a spruce military spark smelling of lavender water. A

coxcomb just returned from his travels was more absurd. He had set up

as virtuoso, and brought home a headless Helen and a genuine ‘Otho’

coined at Rome two years ago. He might now be heard talking Italian in

a loud voice and “pronouncing the word Gothic fifty times an hour.”

In 1760 a fashionable lady complains that there were too many

tradesmen’s wives at Ranelagh. But compared with Vauxhall it was

fashionable, at least according to a lady’s maid in “High Life Below

Stairs” (_circ._ 1759, Act I. sc. 2):--

_Lady Charlotte’s Maid_: Well, I say it again, I love Vauxhall.

_Lady Bab’s Maid_: Oh, my stars! Why, there is nobody there but

filthy citizens--_Runelow_ for _my_ money.

[Illustration: THE ATTACK ON DR. JOHN HILL AT RANELAGH, 6 MAY,

1752.]

From about 1774 it was considered fashionable to arrive at the Rotunda

about 11 P.M., one hour after the concert was over. In 1777, according

to Walpole, the company did not arrive till twelve. “The people of the

true ton,” says the satirical “Harlequin in Ranelagh,”[227] (1774),

“come in about eleven, stare about them for half an hour, laugh at the

other fools who are drenching and scalding themselves with coffee and

tea ... despise all they have seen, and then they trail home again to

sup.” The citizens, on the other hand, came to stare at the great, at

the Duke of Gloucester or Lady Almeria Carpenter, or whoever it might

be. They came to see how the great folks were dressed, how they walked

and how they talked. Some worthy men were compelled by their wives to

wear swords, and in the circling promenade found it hard “to adjust the

spit to the humour of those behind and before” them. The ‘Harlequin’

enlarges on some unpleasant characters who haunted Ranelagh, Baron

H----g (for instance), who trails about like a wounded worm, and Lord

C----y who “runs his nose under every bonnet.” It is not to be denied

that Ranelagh, though on the whole decorous, had a tolerable reputation

as a place of assignation.

§ 4. _Annals of Ranelagh 1742–1769._

From this general sketch of Ranelagh and its frequenters, we may pass

on to some details of its amusements year by year.

The principal performer at the concerts in the earliest days

(1742–_circ._ 1760) was the well-known actor and vocalist Beard,

who was considered by Dibdin to be, “taken altogether, the best English

singer.” Giulia Frasi, young and interesting, with her “sweet clear

voice,” was heard in 1751 and 1752. Michael Festing at first led the

band, and was succeeded (about 1752) by Abram Brown, a performer who

(according to Burney) had “a clear, sprightly and loud tone, with a

strong hand,” but who was deficient in musical knowledge and feeling.

Parry, the Welsh harper (1746), and Caporale, the violoncello player,

were also among the earlier performers.[228]

At first, choruses from oratorios (this was still the case in 1763)

were a feature of the concerts, but the performances soon came to

differ little from those of Vauxhall and Marylebone. In 1754 an

entertainment of recitation, with a procession, was given under the

name of Comus’s Court. In 1757 “Acis and Galatea” was performed for

the benefit of the Marine Society. On 10 June, 1763[229] Bonnell

Thornton’s ‘Burlesque Ode on St. Cecilia’s Day’ was performed,

“adapted (by Burney) to the antient British music, viz.: the salt-box,

the Jew’s-harp, the marrow-bones and cleavers, the hum-strum or

hurdy-gurdy, etc., etc.” The performers sang the recitative, airs and

choruses in masquerade dresses, and the salt-box song was especially

successful. The fun must have been rather forced, though Johnson, who

read the Ode when printed, “praised its humour,” seemed much diverted

with it, and repeated the lines:--

In strains more exalted the salt-box shall join,

And clattering and battering and clapping combine;

With a rap and a tap while the hollow side sounds,

Up and down leaps the flap, and with rattling rebounds.

In 1762–1764 the principal singer was the Italian Tenducci,[230] whose

voice, according to Miss Lydia Melford, was “neither man’s nor woman’s;

but it is more melodious than either, and it warbled so divinely, that

while I listened I really thought myself in Paradise.”

On 29 June, 1764, Mozart, then eight years old, performed on the

harpsichord and organ several of his own compositions. On 12 May,

1767,[231] Catches and Glees were rendered with instrumental parts by

Arne, an addition considered necessary on account of the size of the

Rotunda. This was stated to be the first public performance of the kind

in England.

In 1769 Dibdin was a singer of ballads, and on 12 May of this year

there was a Jubilee Ridotto, an event at which we may pause to recall

some of the earlier masquerades and balls which, from time to time,

enlivened the routine of Ranelagh.

The most famous of these entertainments was the “Grand Jubilee

Masquerade, in the Venetian taste,” that took place on Wednesday,

26 April, 1749, to celebrate the proclamation of the peace of

Aix-la-Chapelle. The Masquerade (says Horace Walpole[232]) “had nothing

Venetian in it, but was by far the best understood and prettiest

spectacle I ever saw; nothing in a fairy tale ever surpassed it....

It began at three o’clock; at about five, people of fashion began to

go; when you entered, you found the whole garden filled with masks and

spread with tents, which remained all night very commodely. In one

quarter was a Maypole dressed with garlands, and people dancing round

it to a tabor and pipe, and rustic music, all masked, as were all the

various bands of music that were disposed in different parts of the

garden; some like huntsmen with French-horns, some like peasants, and

a troop of harlequins and scaramouches in the little open temple on

the mount. On the canal was a sort of gondola, adorned with flags and

streamers, and filled with music, rowing about. All round the outside

of the amphitheatre were shops, filled with Dresden china, Japan, &c.,

and all the shopkeepers in mask. The amphitheatre was illuminated, and

in the middle was a circular bower, composed of all kinds of firs in

tubs, from twenty to thirty feet high; under them, orange trees, with

small lamps in each orange, and below them all sorts of the finest

auriculas in pots; and festoons of natural flowers hanging from tree

to tree. Between the arches, too, were firs, and smaller ones in the

balconies above. There were booths for tea and wine, gaming-tables, and

dancing, and about two thousand persons. In short, it pleased me more

than the finest thing I ever saw.”

Later masquerades, though attended by fashionable people, were

less select, as appears, for example, from an advertisement which

a gentleman inserted in the _Public Advertiser_ of 8 March,

1753[233]:--“This is to inform the Lady that was in a wite mask, red

Beard and Ey’s at the last Masquereade but one, in a brown and silver

flora Pethecoat and head-dress, remarkable gentle, very finely maid,

who lost her company and walked with several masks, perticuler with

one, who in raptorous heared her declare a dislike to gameing and

the intention of Maskquerdes ... on which he asked, wathere single

or ingaged, and under whos care that Night? the lady pointing to a

tall gentleman in black and a bag wigg, said his, my Brother.” His

intentions were honourable, and he begged to see her face. In reply,

“she repetted Part out of the Orphin ‘Trust not a man’; said he had

taken notice enough of her to know her again; bid him look sharp at the

next Makquered, at wich and all other Places he as been dispionted of

seeing her; he therefore hops (if not ingaged) will get her Brother or

some Friend to call on him” as he feels assured he could be happy for

life with her.

On the occasion of the Jubilee Ridotto on 12 May, 1769, the gardens

and the Chinese House were illuminated. “A large sea-horse stuck full

of small lamps floated on the Canal, and had a very agreeable aspect.”

A favourite Ranelagh ‘serenata,’ Dibdin’s ‘Ephesian Matron,’ was

performed at ten, and the Rotunda and gardens were gradually filled by

a brilliant company. The Dukes of York and Cumberland were there, and

one of the prettiest characters was “a rural nymph in rose-coloured

sattin, trimmed with silver.” The tickets, which cost a guinea,

included the supper. Unfortunately, the wine and sweetmeats were not

immediately forthcoming, and some gentlemen broke open the wine cellar

and helped themselves. Sir Thomas Robinson, to make things pleasant,

thereupon sent a general invitation to the company to sup with him. The

dancing began at twelve, and was continued till four, a comparatively

early hour at Ranelagh masquerades.

§ 5. _Later history of Ranelagh, 1770–1805._

A “Gentleman in Town,” writing in _The Town and Country Magazine_

for April 1770 (p. 195) to his friend in the country, enlarges on the

fashionable assemblages to be then seen at Ranelagh three times a

week. And we may note that about this time the tradesmen advertised

their silver Ranelagh silks and Ranelagh waistcoats in gold, silver

and colours. The sweet voice of “the lovely Mrs. Baddeley” was then

to be heard in the Rotunda, and she sang (in the autumn, 1770) in

“The Recruiting Sergeant,” together with Mrs. Thompson, Dibdin, and

Bannister.[234]

The garden concerts, and the fireworks, and transparent pictures in a

building in the grounds had by this time become prominent features of

the place.[235]

The event of 1775 was the Ranelagh Regatta and Ball,[236] which took

place on June 23rd. Early in the afternoon of that day the whole river

from London Bridge to Millbank was covered with pleasure boats, and

scaffold erections were to be seen on the banks, and even on the top of

Westminster Hall. Gambling tables lined the approaches to Westminster

Bridge: men went about selling indifferent liquor, Regatta songs and

Regatta cards. The river banks now resembled a great fair, and the

Thames itself a floating town. Wild calculations fixed the number of

the spectators at 200,000, or “at least” three millions. At 7.30 a

cannon signalled the start of the racing-boats, and about 8.30, when

the prizes had been awarded, the whole procession began to move “in

a picturesque irregularity towards Ranelagh.” The Directors’ barge,

with its band playing and gold REGATTA ensign flying, led the

way, and the fortunate persons who had ball-tickets landed at Ranelagh

Stairs at nine o’clock.

Dancing took place in the Temple of Neptune, a temporary octagon

erection in the grounds. Mrs. Cornelys had been given seven hundred

guineas (it is said) to supply the supper, and it is lamentable to

reflect that the supper was “indifferent, and the wine very scarce.”

However, there was a great company: the Duke of Gloucester, the Duke

of Northumberland, Lord North, the Duchess of Devonshire, Sir Joshua

Reynolds, Garrick, Colman, Samuel Foote. A band of two hundred and

forty instrumentalists, under Giardini, performed in the Rotunda,

and there was singing by Vernon and Reinhold, including the cheering

ballad:--

Ye lords and ye ladies who form this gay throng,

Be silent a moment, attend to our song,

And while you suspend your fantastical round,

Come, bless your sweet stars that you’re none of you drowned.

[Illustration: ADMISSION TICKET, BY CIPRIANI AND BARTOLOZZI.]

From this time (1775) till about 1790 the concerts continued as usual,

but Ranelagh seems during the period to have suffered a certain

eclipse. In May 1788 the shares are said to have fallen from their par

value (£1,000) to £900. Ranelagh was “voted a bore with the fashionable

circles,” and its distance from town began to be considered an obstacle.

About 1791, however, its fortunes revived, and numerous masquerades,

sometimes lasting till six or eight in the morning, and firework

displays (chiefly by Caillot and by Rossi and Tessier) remained a

feature of Ranelagh till its close.

Henry Angelo (_Reminiscences_, ii. _p._ 3 _f._), speaking of its later

days, declares that it was frequented by “the élite of fashion.” The

gentlemen wore powder, frills and ruffles, and had gold-headed canes.

“Cropped heads, trousers or shoe-strings” were not to be seen there.

The men used to buy in the ante-room myrtles, hyacinths and roses, not

to wear themselves, but for presentation to the ladies.

A masquerade of 1792 (14 February) was attended by Mrs. Jordan,

“supported” (as the newspapers said) “between the friendly arms of

the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Clarence.” Mr. Petit was good as

a man walking in his sleep with a candle, and amid the usual crowd of

harlequins, sailors and flower-girls, “a monkey of the largest size was

offensively dexterous.”[237] At another masquerade this year (16 May)

a Guy Faux, a ‘Bath Maccarony,’ an African Princess, and three or four

Romps attracted attention.

On May 7th, 1792, the exhibition called Mount Etna was introduced and

remained popular at Ranelagh for several years. A special building with

a scene designed by G. Marinari, ‘painter to the Opera,’ was prepared

for it in the gardens. The idea was evidently borrowed from Torré’s

Forge of Vulcan, the great attraction at the Marylebone Gardens some

twenty years earlier. The scene represented Mount Etna and the Cavern

of Vulcan with the ‘Cyclops’ forging the armour of Mars, “as described

(the advertisements add) in the Aeneid of Virgil.” To an accompaniment

of music “compiled from Gluck, Haydn, Giardini, and Handel,” we see the

‘Cyclops’ going to work. “The smoke thickens, the crater on the top of

Etna vomits forth flames, and the lava rolls dreadful along the side of

the mountain. This continues with increasing violence till there is a

prodigious eruption, which finishes with a tremendous explosion.”

On June 27th, 1793, the Chevalier D’Eon fenced in the Rotunda with M.

Sainville, and received the congratulations of the Prince of Wales and

Mrs. Fitzherbert.[238]

In 1797 (April) there was an enjoyable masquerade, at which there

reigned (we are told) “good nature and pleasant hilarity, without

riot”: all this, in spite of a crowd of imaginary Dutch skippers,

lunatics, coachmen, quack doctors and watercress girls.

At a concert in 1798 (June) Incledon and Madame Mara sang. In 1799 a

January masquerade was diversified by a drawing for fifty twelfth cakes

as prizes for the masks.

The Directors now began to offer prizes for regattas and volunteer

shooting-matches, and a few splendid entertainments mark the closing

years of Ranelagh.

On 2 June, 1802, Boodle’s Club gave an elegant dance at which the

ladies “wore white and silver, ornamented with laurel”--and diamonds,

and amused themselves by drawing prizes of trinkets in a Lottery

Booth. On the 28 June (1802) the Picnic Society gave an “afternoon

breakfast,” and at five o’clock Garnerin, the French aeronaut, and

Captain Sowden ascended in a balloon from the gardens.[239]

On 23 September (1802) Mr. Thomas Todd descended into a reservoir

of water twenty-five feet deep, prepared for him in the gardens.

His awkward diving-tub, and his dress of leather and metal excited

the laughter of spectators born too early to know the diver of the

Polytechnic. Nor is this praiseworthy experiment to be counted among

the splendid entertainments of Ranelagh, for Mr. Todd was “misfitted

by his coppersmith,” forgot to take down his lamp, and did not remain

under water more than five minutes.[240]

On 1 June, 1803, a ball in commemoration of the Installation of

the Knights of the Bath took place and proved one of the finest of

the entertainments. Yet these were only ‘struggles for happiness,’

and attempts to galvanise a nearly lifeless Ranelagh. The unending

promenade, with its sentimental songs and elegant regale of tea and

coffee, had ceased to attract, and the lamp-hung trees, the Chinese

House and the music on the Canal had lost their ancient charm. On 8

July, 1803, the Rotunda of Ranelagh was opened for the last time as a

place of amusement.

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