_The Aspect of the Equatorial Heavens._--Within the limits of the

equatorial zone the noonday sun is truly vertical twice every

year, and for several months it passes so near the zenith that the

difference can hardly be detected without careful observation of

the very short shadows of vertical objects. The absence of distinct

horizontal shadows at noon which thus characterises a considerable

part of the year, is itself a striking phenomenon to an inhabitant

of the temperate zones; and equally striking is the changed aspect

of the starry heavens. The grand constellation Orion, passes

vertically overhead, while the Great Bear is only to be seen low

down in the northern heavens, and the Pole star either appears

close to the horizon or has altogether disappeared according as we

are north or south of the equator. Towards the south the Southern

Cross, the Magellanic clouds, and the jet-black “coal sacks” are the

most conspicuous objects invisible in our northern latitudes. The

same cause that brings the sun overhead in its daily march equally

affects the planets, which appear high up towards the zenith far

more frequently than with us, thus affording splendid opportunities

for telescopic observation.

_Intensity of Meteorological Phenomena at the Equator._--The

excessive violence of meteorological phenomena generally supposed to

be characteristic of the tropics is not by any means remarkable in

the equatorial zone. Electrical disturbances are much more frequent,

but not generally more violent than in the temperate regions. The

wind-storms are rarely of excessive violence, as might in fact be

inferred from the extreme steadiness of the barometer, whose daily

range at Batavia rarely exceeds one-eighth of an inch, while the

extreme range during three years was less than one-third of an inch!

The amount of the rainfall is very great, seventy or eighty inches

in a year being a probable average; and as the larger part of this

occurs during three or four months, individual rainfalls are often

exceedingly heavy. The greatest fall recorded at Batavia during

three years was three inches and eight-tenths in one hour,[4] but

this was quite exceptional, and even half this quantity is very

unusual. The greatest rainfall recorded in twenty-four hours is

seven inches and a quarter; but more than four inches in one day

occurs only on two or three occasions in a year. The blue colour

of the sky is probably not so intense as in many parts of the

temperate zone, while the brilliancy of the moon and stars is not

perceptibly greater than that of our clearest frosty nights, and

is undoubtedly much inferior to what is witnessed in many desert

regions, and even in Southern Europe.

[4] On January 10th, 1867, from 1 to 2 A.M.

On the whole, then, we must decide, that uniformity and abundance,

rather than any excessive manifestations, are the prevailing

characteristic of all the climatal phenomena of the equatorial zone.

_Concluding Remarks._--We cannot better conclude our account of the

equatorial climate than by quoting the following vivid description

of the physical phenomena which occur during the early part of the

dry season at Para. It is taken from Mr. Bates’ _Naturalist on

the Amazons_, and clearly exhibits some of the more characteristic

features of a typical equatorial day.

“At that early period of the day (the first two hours after sunrise)

the sky was invariably cloudless, the thermometer marking 72° or

73° Fahr.; the heavy dew or the previous night’s rain, which lay on

the moist foliage, becoming quickly dissipated by the glowing sun,

which, rising straight out of the east, mounted rapidly towards the

zenith. All nature was fresh, new leaf and flower-buds expanding

rapidly. * * * The heat increased hourly, and towards two o’clock

reached 92° to 93° Fahr., by which time every voice of bird and

mammal was hushed. The leaves, which were so moist and fresh in early

morning, now became lax and drooping, and flowers shed their petals.

On most days in June and July a heavy shower would fall some time

in the afternoon, producing a most welcome coolness. The approach

of the rain-clouds was after a uniform fashion very interesting

to observe. First, the cool sea-breeze which had commenced to

blow about ten o’clock, and which had increased in force with the

increasing power of the sun, would flag, and finally die away. The

heat and electric tension of the atmosphere would then become almost

insupportable. Languor and uneasiness would seize on every one, even

the denizens of the forest betraying it by their motions. White

clouds would appear in the east and gather into cumuli, with an

increasing blackness along their lower portions. The whole eastern

horizon would become almost suddenly black, and this would spread

upwards, the sun at length becoming obscured. Then the rush of a

mighty wind is heard through the forest, swaying the tree-tops; a

vivid flash of lightning bursts forth, then a crash of thunder,

and down streams the deluging rain. Such storms soon cease, leaving

bluish-black motionless clouds in the sky until night. Meantime

all nature is refreshed; but heaps of flower-petals and fallen

leaves are seen under the trees. Towards evening life revives

again, and the ringing uproar is resumed from bush and tree. The

following morning the sun again rises in a cloudless sky; and so the

cycle is completed; spring, summer, and autumn, as it were in one

tropical day. The days are more or less like this throughout the

year. A little difference exists between the dry and wet seasons;

but generally, the dry season, which lasts from July to December,

is varied with showers, and the wet, from January to June, with

sunny days. It results from this,--that the periodical phenomena of

plants and animals do not take place at about the same time in all

species, or in the individuals of any given species, as they do in

temperate countries. In Europe, a woodland scene has its spring,

its summer, its autumnal, and its winter aspects. In the equatorial

forests the aspect is the same or nearly so every day in the year:

budding, flowering, fruiting, and leaf-shedding are always going

on in one species or other. It is never either spring, summer, or

autumn, but each day is a combination of all three. With the day

and night always of equal length, the atmospheric disturbances of

each day neutralising themselves before each succeeding morn; with

the sun in its course proceeding midway across the sky, and the

daily temperature almost the same throughout the year--how grand

in its perfect equilibrium and simplicity is the march of Nature

under the equator!”

II.

EQUATORIAL VEGETATION.

The Equatorial Forest-Belt and its Causes--General features of

the Equatorial Forests--Low-growth Forest-trees--Flowery trunks

and their probable cause--Uses of Equatorial Forest-trees--The

Climbing Plants of the Equatorial Forests--Palms--Uses of

Palm-trees and their Products--Ferns--Ginger-worts and wild

Bananas--Arums--Screw-pines--Orchids--Bamboos--Uses of the

Bamboo--Mangroves--Sensitive-plants--Comparative scarcity of

Flowers--Concluding Remarks on Tropical Vegetation.

In the following sketch of the characteristics of vegetable life

in the equatorial zone, it is not intended to enter into any

scientific details or to treat the subject in the slightest degree

from a botanical point of view; but merely to describe those general

features of vegetation which are almost or quite peculiar to this

region of the globe, and which are so general as to be characteristic

of the greater part of it rather than of any particular country or

continent within its limits.

_The Equatorial Forest-Belt and its Causes._--With but few and

unimportant exceptions a great forest band from a thousand to fifteen

hundred miles in width girdles the earth at the equator, clothing

hill, plain, and mountain with an evergreen mantle. Lofty peaks and

precipitous ridges are sometimes bare, but often the woody covering

continues to a height of eight or ten thousand feet, as in some

of the volcanic mountains of Java and on portions of the Eastern

Andes. Beyond the forests both to the north and south, we meet first

with woody and then open country, soon changing into arid plains or

even deserts which form an almost continuous band in the vicinity

of the two tropics. On the line of the tropic of Cancer we have,

in America the deserts and dry plains of New Mexico; in Africa the

Sahara; and in Asia, the Arabian deserts, those of Beloochistan and

Western India, and further east the dry plains of North China and

Mongolia. On the tropic of Capricorn we have, in America the Grand

Chaco desert and the Pampas; in Africa the Kalahari desert and the

dry plains north of the Limpopo; while the deserts and waterless

plains of Central Australia complete the arid zone. These great

contrasts of verdure and barrenness occurring in parallel bands all

round the globe, must evidently depend on the general laws which

determine the distribution of moisture over the earth, more or

less modified by local causes. Without going into meteorological

details, some of which have been given in the preceding chapter, the

main facts may be explained by the mode in which the great aerial

currents are distributed. The trade winds passing over the ocean

from north-east to south-west with an oblique tendency towards the

equator, become saturated with vapour, and are ready to give out

moisture whenever they are forced upwards or in any other way have

their temperature lowered. The entire equatorial zone becomes thus

charged with vapour-laden air which is the primary necessity of

a luxuriant vegetation. The surplus air (produced by the meeting

of the two trade winds) which is ever rising in the equatorial

belt and giving up its store of vapour, flows off north and south

as dry, cool air, and descends to the earth in the vicinity of

the tropics. Here it sucks up whatever moisture it meets with and

thus tends to keep this zone in an arid condition. The trades

themselves are believed to be supplied by descending currents

from the temperate zones, and these are at first equally dry and

only become vapour-laden when they have passed over some extent

of moist surface. At the solstices the sun passes vertically over

the vicinity of the tropics for several weeks, and this further

aggravates the aridity; and wherever the soil is sandy and there are

no lofty mountain-chains to supply ample irrigation the result is

a more or less perfect desert. Analogous causes, which a study of

aerial currents will render intelligible, have produced other great

forest-belts in the northern and southern parts of the temperate

zones; but owing to the paucity of land in the southern hemisphere

these are best seen in North America and Northern Euro-Asia, where

they form the great northern forests of deciduous trees and of

Coniferæ. These being comparatively well known to us, will form

the standard by a reference to which we shall endeavour to point

out and render intelligible the distinctive characteristics of the

equatorial forest vegetation.

_General Features of the Equatorial Forests._--It is not easy to fix

upon the most distinctive features of these virgin forests, which

nevertheless impress themselves upon the beholder as something quite

unlike those of temperate lands, and as possessing a grandeur and

sublimity altogether their own. Amid the countless modifications in

detail which these forests present, we shall endeavour to point out

the chief peculiarities as well as the more interesting phenomena

which generally characterise them.

The observer new to the scene would perhaps be first struck by

the varied yet symmetrical trunks, which rise up with perfect

straightness to a great height without a branch, and which, being

placed at a considerable average distance apart, give an impression

similar to that produced by the columns of some enormous building.

Overhead, at a height, perhaps, of a hundred feet, is an almost

unbroken canopy of foliage formed by the meeting together of these

great trees and their interlacing branches; and this canopy is

usually so dense that but an indistinct glimmer of the sky is to be

seen, and even the intense tropical sunlight only penetrates to the

ground subdued and broken up into scattered fragments. There is a

weird gloom and a solemn silence, which combine to produce a sense

of the vast--the primeval--almost of the infinite. It is a world

in which man seems an intruder, and where he feels overwhelmed by

the contemplation of the ever-acting forces, which, from the simple

elements of the atmosphere, build up the great mass of vegetation

which overshadows, and almost seems to oppress the earth.

_Characteristics of the Larger Forest-trees._--Passing from the

general impression to the elements of which the scene is composed,

the observer is struck by the great diversity of the details amid

the general uniformity. Instead of endless repetitions of the same

forms of trunk such as are to be seen in our pine, or oak, or beech

woods, the eye wanders from one tree to another and rarely detects

two of the same species. All are tall and upright columns, but they

differ from each other more than do the columns of Gothic, Greek,

and Egyptian temples. Some are almost cylindrical, rising up out of

the ground as if their bases were concealed by accumulations of the

soil; others get much thicker near the ground like our spreading

oaks; others again, and these are very characteristic, send out

towards the base flat and wing-like projections. These projections

are thin slabs radiating from the main trunk, from which they

stand out like the buttresses of a Gothic cathedral. They rise to

various heights on the tree, from five or six, to twenty or thirty

feet; they often divide as they approach the ground, and sometimes

twist and curve along the surface for a considerable distance,

forming elevated and greatly compressed roots. These buttresses

are sometimes so large that the spaces between them if roofed over

would form huts capable of containing several persons. Their use

is evidently to give the tree an extended base, and so assist the

subterranean roots in maintaining in an erect position so lofty a

column crowned by a broad and massive head of branches and foliage.

The buttressed trees belong to a variety of distinct groups. Thus,

many of the Bombaceæ or silk-cotton trees, several of the Leguminosæ,

and perhaps many trees belonging to other natural orders, possess

these appendages.

There is another form of tree, hardly less curious, in which the

trunk, though generally straight and cylindrical, is deeply furrowed

and indented, appearing as if made up of a number of small trees

grown together at the centre. Sometimes the junction of what seem to

be the component parts, is so imperfect, that gaps or holes are left

by which you can see through the trunk in various places. At first

one is disposed to think this is caused by accident or decay, but

repeated examination shows it be due to the natural growth of the

tree. The accompanying outline sections of one of these trees that

was cut down, exhibits its character. It was a noble forest-tree,

more than 200 feet high, but rather slender in proportion, and it

was by no means an extreme example of its class. This peculiar

form is probably produced by the downward growth of aerial roots,

like some New Zealand trees whose growth has been traced, and of

whose different stages drawings may be seen at the Library of the

Linnean Society. These commence their existence as parasitical

climbers which take root in the fork of some forest-tree and send

down aerial roots which clasp round the stem that upholds them. As

these roots increase in size and grow together laterally they cause

the death of their foster-parent. The climber then grows rapidly,

sending out large branches above and spreading roots below, and

as the supporting tree decays away the aerial roots grow together

and form a new trunk, more or less furrowed and buttressed, but

exhibiting no other marks of its exceptional origin. Aerial-rooted

forest-trees--like that figured in my _Malay Archipelago_ (vol. i.

p. 131)--and the equally remarkable fig-trees of various species,

whose trunks are formed by a miniature forest of aerial roots,

sometimes separate, sometimes matted together, are characteristic

of the Eastern tropics, but appear to be rare or altogether unknown

in America, and can therefore hardly be included among the general

characteristics of the equatorial zone.

[Illustration: Sections of trunk of a Bornean Forest-tree.

1. Section at seven feet from the ground.

2. 3. Sections much higher up.]

Besides the varieties of form, however, the tree-trunks of these

forests present many peculiarities of colour and texture. The

majority are rather smooth-barked, and many are of peculiar whitish,

green, yellowish, or brown colours, or occasionally nearly black.

Some are perfectly smooth, others deeply cracked and furrowed, while

in a considerable number the bark splits off in flakes or hangs

down in long fibrous ribands. Spined or prickly trunks (except of

palms) are rare in the damp equatorial forests. Turning our gaze

upwards from the stems to the foliage, we find two types of leaf

not common in the temperate zone, although the great mass of the

trees offer nothing very remarkable in this respect. First, we

have many trees with large, thick, and glossy leaves, like those

of the cherry-laurel or the magnolia, but even larger, smoother,

and more symmetrical. The leaves of the Asiatic caoutchouc-tree

(_Ficus elastica_), so often cultivated in houses, is a type of this

class, which has a very fine effect among the more ordinary-looking

foliage. Contrasted with this is the fine pinnate foliage of some

of the largest forest-trees which, seen far aloft against the sky,

looks as delicate as that of the sensitive mimosa.

_Forest-trees of Low Growth._--The great trees we have hitherto been

describing form, however, but a portion of the forest. Beneath their

lofty canopy there often exists a second forest of moderate-sized

trees, whose crowns, perhaps forty or fifty feet high, do not touch

the lowermost branches of those above them. These are of course

shade-loving trees, and their presence effectually prevents the

growth of any young trees of the larger kinds, until, overcome by

age and storms, some monarch of the forest falls down, and, carrying

destruction in its fall, opens up a considerable space, into which

sun and air can penetrate. Then comes a race for existence among

the seedlings of the surrounding trees, in which a few ultimately

prevail and fill up the space vacated by their predecessor. Yet

beneath this second set of medium-sized forest-trees there is often

a third undergrowth of small trees, from six to ten feet high,

of dwarf palms, of tree-ferns, and of gigantic herbaceous ferns.

Coming to the surface of the ground itself we find much variety.

Sometimes it is completely bare, a mass of decaying leaves and

twigs and fallen fruits. More frequently it is covered with a dense

carpet of selaginella or other lycopodiaceæ, and these sometimes

give place to a variety of herbaceous plants, sometimes with pretty,

but rarely with very conspicuous flowers.

_Flowering Trunks and their Probable Cause._--Among the minor but

not unimportant peculiarities that characterise these lofty forests,

is the curious way in which many of the smaller trees have their

flowers situated on the main trunk or larger branches instead of on

the upper part of the tree. The cacao-tree is a well-known example

of this peculiarity, which is not uncommon in tropical forests;

and some of the smaller trunks are occasionally almost hidden by

the quantity of fruit produced on them. One of the most beautiful

examples of this mode of flowering is a small tree of the genus

_Polyalthea_, belonging to the family of the custard-apples, not

uncommon in the forests of North-western Borneo. Its slender trunk,

about fifteen or twenty feet high, was completely covered with

star-shaped flowers, three inches across and of a rich orange-red

colour, making the trees look as if they had been artificially

decorated with brilliant garlands. The recent discoveries as to the

important part played by insects in the fertilization of flowers

offers a very probable explanation of this peculiarity. Bees and

butterflies are the greatest flower-haunters. The former love the

sun and frequent open grounds or the flowery tops of the lofty

forest-trees fully exposed to the sun and air. The forest shades are

frequented by thousands of butterflies, but these mostly keep near

the ground, where they have a free passage among the tree-trunks and

visit the flowering shrubs and herbaceous plants. To attract these

it is necessary that flowers should be low down and conspicuous.

If they grew in the usual way on the tops of these smaller trees

overshadowed by the dense canopy above them they would be out of

sight of both groups of insects, but being placed openly on the

stems, and in the greatest profusion, they cannot fail to attract

the attention of the wandering butterflies.

_Uses of Equatorial Forest-trees._--Amid this immense variety of

trees, the natives have found out such as are best adapted to

certain purposes. The wood of some is light and soft, and is used

for floats or for carving out rude images, stools, and ornaments for

boats and houses. The flat slabs of the buttresses are often used to

make paddles. Some of the trees with furrowed stems are exceedingly

strong and durable, serving as posts for houses or as piles on which

the water-villages are built. Canoes, formed from a trunk hollowed

out and spread open under the action of heat, require one kind of

wood, those built up with planks another; and, as the species of

trees in these forests are so much more numerous than the wants of

a semi-civilized population, there are probably a large number of

kinds of timber which will some day be found to be well adapted to

the special requirements of the arts and sciences. The products of

the trees of the equatorial forests, notwithstanding our imperfect

knowledge of them, are already more useful to civilized man than to

the indigenous inhabitants. To mention only a few of those whose

names are tolerably familiar to us, we have such valuable woods

as mahogany, teak, ebony, lignum-vitæ, purple-heart, iron-wood,

sandal-wood, and satin-wood; such useful gums as india-rubber,

gutta-percha, tragacanth, copal, lac, and dammar; such dyes as

are yielded by log-wood, brazil-wood, and sappan-wood; such drugs

as the balsams of Capivi and Tolu, camphor, benzoin, catechu or

terra-japonica, cajuput oil, gamboge, quinine, Angostura bark,

quassia, and the urari and upas poisons; of spices we have cloves,

cinnamon, and nutmegs; and of fruits, brazil-nuts, tamarinds, guavas,

and the valuable cacao; while residents in our tropical colonies

enjoy the bread-fruit, avocado-pear, custard-apple, durian, mango,

mangosteen, soursop, papaw, and many others. This list of useful

products from the exogenous trees alone of the equatorial forests,

excluding those from the palms, shrubs, herbs, and creepers, might

have been multiplied many times over by the introduction of articles

whose names would be known only to those interested in special

arts or sciences; but imperfect as it is, it will serve to afford

a notion of the value of this vast treasure-house which is as yet

but very partially explored.

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